Generac Generator Valve Replacement - Generac 4000XL

hey guys welcome back so tonight i'm continuing work on these two generac 4000 xls i picked these up recently as non-running machines and the hope was that by buying two broken ones i could get one good one and that's exactly what i did in the first video the generator here on the left had no compression and was missing a bunch of parts you'll come to find out the lack of compression was due to a broken valve spring retainer so what i did was i stole the retainer from this engine and moved it over there as well as the air box and you know by the end of that video we had a perfectly running machine doing exactly what it should anyway fast forward to tonight and i'm trying to figure out where to go with this one you know at the time when i stole that valve spring retainer i had assumed i could buy a new one for five or ten dollars but that part is discontinued it's obsolete so there's not too many options i couldn't find it anywhere new or used but with that said there is one option you know generac does make a valve kit which comes with two new valves valve springs and valve retainers but it is not compatible with the valves that are in there so i just can't take the retainer from that kit and pop it on i do need to get the head off and actually replace the valves the springs and the retainers so that's what i'm going to do that kit is on its way so what i need to do is get basically everything off that's connected to the head and get that head uninstalled and cleaned up and once we get that kit installed my hope is to bolt on the original carburetor that came with this generator and give it a test to see if there's anything else wrong with this generator if everything's looking good i'll order a new carburetor because that one does have issues and we'll replace the missing air box so let me get you set up a little bit better and get going on this thing [Applause] so a little bit of carbon buildup but the cylinder itself looks to be in great shape you can still see the original crosshatch pattern okay that cleaned up pretty well the important thing is the really important thing is to get the head surface cleaned up where it's going to seal with the new head gasket i also removed a majority of the carbon down here you know that can break off and cause scoring in the cylinder so i'm going to move on to the engine we're going to get the carbon off the piston as well as the sealing surface on the engine okay well this showed up while i was cleaning the engine so i'm gonna get this opened up we'll get the valves lapped in we'll reassemble the head and then bolt it onto the engine [Music] [Music] you beautiful that's the way it should be i did have to flap it about four more times before getting it to seat really good anyway we'll get the valve springs on and the retainers actually we also have a new valve stem seal we'll get that on as well got a bit of an upgrade we got red springs anyway the springs are the same on both sides so it doesn't matter which way or what side it goes on same with the valve retainers and the keepers do the tapered side goes down and what i find works best is usually the spring leans to one side so if you put the first keeper in on the tight side it'll usually stay in place while you're putting in the other do just going to put a little assembly lube in the cylinder all right this is going to get torqued to 22 foot pounds the manual says start at 15 and then bring it up to 22. so there is a bit of a discrepancy as far as what the valve should be set to on this according to the service manual the intake should be around one or two thousandths and the exhaust two or three according to the owner's manual it says set both of them between two and four which i like the sound of better so i'm gonna aim for probably the high side of three on both of these valves okay perfect both valves are between three and four thousandths uh so before putting the blower housing on i do want to sand this magnet it is rubbing you know against this coil due to the rust so i'll sand that a bit i'm also going to sand the legs here on this ignition coil just make sure we have uh clearance without hitting the rust now all right let's give it a quick start before bolting that exhaust on i've got the light hooked up and turned on i'm just going to give it a squirt of starting fluid and hopefully the engine fires up and the light comes on for a second all right not too bad it fired right up and the light came on so we're looking pretty good i'm gonna get the exhaust bolted on i'll get that oem carb that kind of works bolted on we'll bring it out and do a little bit more testing so you may have noticed this looks a lot better than it did when we started i just used some scotch brite and some wd-40 to kind of shine that up and remove some of the rust and i think that would work on this as well at least in this area i think this rust is a little bit too severe now i do have a lot of exhaust systems from the 9 and 10 horse briggs engines and it's not compatible with this but this chrome on the front seems to be an exact match so i'm going to try to get these bolts out and assuming that works out we'll move this one over to there so [Music] so in case you're wondering i am going to emit the breather tube for now it is pretty cracked and dry rot this stuff's just going to get sucked into the engine so i do need a new one of those and i didn't really cover this but the tank did have some issues the tank was full of mostly water and some fuel and surprisingly even though it's a plastic tank it had a bunch of rust on it mostly due to this fuel cap this piece here is the float for the fuel gauge and someone actually painted the gauge black so it's serving no purpose but this here was in the water and caused a surprising amount of rust now i'll show you it here if it focuses and you can see it's doesn't look great i've actually had this soaking now for about 24 hours and denatured alcohol so i think we're about done i just need to agitate it a bit get that alcohol out rinse it out with water and probably drain it and repeat a few times yeah it's a lot better but i know there is still stuff down by the fuel outlet that's what i got out right there so i am going to bring it out anyway just throw some water in it shake it around try to kind of break up the stuff by the fuel filter that's inside the tank okay i'm ready to give this thing a try i'm not sure if i mentioned this already but this carb didn't run the other generac too well i did pull it apart again and actually found a pilot jet behind the main jet which i neglected in the first cleaning so that's been cleaned again i think it'll run this a lot better but i couldn't solve the leaky needle problem so at a minimum we need a new needle and i'm leaning towards a clone on this one just because this carb is not in great shape and a clone is about 20 bucks and a new needle is probably half that so let's get it started and uh see how it does we're at about 120.7 volts 63.3 hertz a little fast we'll slow that down in a second we're at 61.4 hertz that's good 121 volts so [Applause] yeah it's kind of what we saw last time i tried this on the other generator the idle circuit's not working too well potentially i need to adjust the idle set screw but from what i can see here it actually looks in a decent position but let me turn it in a few turns we'll try this again [Music] so okay well overall not too bad considering where we started with this thing you know it starts it runs it makes power unfortunately the idle circuit seems to be dead that set screw is actually all the way in and when it tries to idle down it just falls on its face so i do need to get a new carb ordered i'll get the new breather as well and the air box and then finish this thing up but for now since it's hot we'll get it inside and drain that oil okay i'm just going to show you real quick how to test your oil pressure switch i was helping someone recently with a similar setup as this and this one's different than most this one actually has a pressure switch most generators have a float anyway i've got the multimeter set to ohms and one lead on the ground and the other lead on the switch itself right now we have no oil pressure which is why we get a reading of about 1 ohm and i'm going to pull the engine over a few times actually probably more than a few times i just change the filter but once we build pressure this should be an open circuit telling us that the switch is good [Applause] [Applause] in a my multimeter that means open circuit so we've now built up enough pressure to satisfy that oil pressure switch and if we wait a minute the pressure should go down and the connection will come back and there it is give it another pull and we got pressure again in case you're in a pinch and you need to bypass the oil system on this you just unplug this connector right here and it should start right up okay all the parts i've been waiting for have arrived so i'm going to bolt this stuff all on and we'll get it back outside yes alright all set up here to test out this carb i do have the fuel hooked up and it's been turned on a few minutes no leaks so we're off to a good start let's uh get it running and see how it does so not too bad 62 and a half 120.3 very nice i'm always impressed with these engines how long they take to run out of fuel once you disconnect it i mean it was a good four minutes anyway this thing did pretty well i mean it started right up it idled without issue you know after it warmed up it was burning off some oil in the exhaust but that cleared up after a few minutes i think the shocking thing here was what it did under a 3000 watt load you know the voltage dropped to about 110 volts this has an avr it should be doing a better job maintaining that voltage and also the engine speed it was low you know it was around 58 hertz maybe a bit below you know i would have been happier at 59 you know but i did bump the governor to open up the throttle a bit more and it had no problem getting back up to 62 hertz so it's not an engine issue it's most likely a governor sensitivity issue so i think i'm going to move that spring a little bit closer to the governor's shaft and see if that improves the speed drop at all you know also there is an adjustment for the voltage here there was a rubber plug covering this up and you can actually get a screwdriver through it but i pulled it out just to get kind of easier access but that is the potentiometer there i believe turning it counterclockwise will bring the voltage up so that's what i'm going to do shooting for something closer to 125 volts with no load and then we'll load it up and see how the engine and voltage does [Music] so all right i adjusted the voltage again closer to 125. we're at 62 and a half hertz let's load it up yeah that's better 115 volts 58.7 yeah that was much better we're now within range the voltage and the engine speed is kind of doing what it should so i think i'm done you know this generator i wasn't sure i was gonna fix it it was in rough shape but i'm glad i did you know i like the generic xl line they are built well but they are getting up there in years anyway i hope this video helps someone thanks for watching

Channel: James Condon

Views: 52,410

Keywords: 09777, 09777-2, 0D24890ESV, 4000 XL, 4000XL, A1720, Broken Valve Retainer, Carburetor Clening, Carburetor, EHC-00952-2, Fixed, GN220, Generac 4000 XL, Generator, Governor Droop, Governor Sensativity, Idle Speed Set, Lap Valves, Oil Pressure Test, Small Engine, Speed Adjustment, Troubleshooting, Ultrasonic, Valve Adjustment, Valve Retainer, Valve Spring, Valve, Voltage Adjustment

Id: nSMPuWdxyJU

Length: 48min 19sec (2899 seconds)

Published: Wed Jul 14 2021