Fusion 360 Basics - How to use 2D Engraving (Decorative Wooden Sign)

[Music] so this project uses a 1 by 10 piece of knotted pine which I got at the big-box store for about 10 bucks the first step is to cut them down to 30 inches and then joint two edges which will glue up in some clamps this joint doesn't require any kind of biscuits or pocket holes or anything like that the glue is plenty strong enough on its own I added a pair of F clamps to each end just to keep the board's in line as best I could and also a bar clamp across the middle to kind of act as a cull now after the glue was dry for about two hours I removed the clamps and hit it with a hand plane just to knock off the high spots and a bit of the glue I then came back with some 80 through 220 grit sanded everything and then stained everything with a black poly shade dye okay so what I've done here is designed up the sign that I want to engrave in fusion 360 I'm using AutoCAD 2017 just because it's what I'm comfortable with you could use free programs such as Sketchup or fusion 360 itself to design this now let's go and import this into Fusion I simply click upload select my file open and hit upload this will take a little bit of time close eventually there's the thumbnail and double click this to open it so I don't like to see this as the front is this direction so I'm gonna click on front hit this drop-down menu say current view set as top so now this is showing the bottom which is going to be the bottom of the CNC machine this is the way I prefer to look at things so we're gonna go into our cam say setup new setup and we're gonna change the stock box to fixed size we're gonna call it 30 inches wide 18 inches tall and we know it's 0.75 inches thick or 3/4 of an inch so this will give us room in each of the four corners to put a screw to hold the stock in place while it's being milled back in our setup we're gonna change the orientation which is currently somewhere in the middle we always set it or at least I always set it to the top left bottom corner that is up yxr in the right positions ok so now we're gonna go into our 2d engrave we're gonna select a tool and right here you see I've already created a sham for a bit let's quickly go through how it's made edit tool so under general we just write the description what the vendor is under cutter we're gonna select a sham firm mill now do not select a countersink bit because it won't work with the engrave function so shant for mill number flutes to carbide no coolant clockwise inches so no over here we're gonna set the angle to 45 degrees this could be different you could have say a 60-degree v-groove bit or something like that the top diameter at 0.5 and the bottom is 0 so it's going to come exactly to a point all the other dimensions you can fill out yourself shaft holder don't care feeds and speeds the spindle speed again my router is 10,000 rpm and we're gonna say it can handle 40-inches per minute the plunge feed is a little slower and the ramp feed is a little slower as well post-process is fine okay so we're gonna select that bit it's automatically now populated everything over here cool it's disabled let's go into geometry so here we're simply going to select the top of everything that we want cut up now it's very important when selecting letters with cutouts in them you need to select the outside and the inside you I miss this one you okay and now looks like we have everything selected here we'll go into Heights and it looks like everything is fine the bottom height that's saying is gonna be almost 1/4 inch into the piece that's fine passes everything else here is fine you can adjust it if you want to linking we're gonna say keep tool down that's fine okay so everything should generate perfectly after this all right so let's go in and say simulate turn our stock on and see how it works so far it's looking like it's doing a great job let's see how it does the letters so you see that it actually took a pass because the width of the W here is wider than 1/2 inch which was the top of our router bit so it took a pass on this side and then a pass on the left as well same thing for this section that looks absolutely perfect that's what we're gonna end up with let's hit close say post-process make sure g28 is turned off all this other stuff looks good mach 3 mil and we'll change it to say family board 30 wide by 18 tall by 0.75 thick v-groove bit now I just write all that stuff there so I'm reminded when I'm loading the program out in the garage of what size stock this is supposed to be and what bit I'm supposed to be using and we'll just hit post and it'll generate our G code for us and say save it on the desktop so here we are in our Mach 3 software we're simply going to load the G code that we just made so what we need to do with this code right now is under the G 54 it still thinks it's at our origin position which is the bottom left top corner so it's gonna immediately try going right to this first point x2 y1 whatever so you need to go and edit the code under G 54 we need to say G 0 Z 1 and this is gonna raise up the bit so it clears before going to its first coordinate and we'll hit save close this okay let's go into tool path make this bigger you can see this first red line we scroll down past all this crap get to the G 54 first thing it does is goes up and then it goes over clearing our stock and our screws and anything else that's in the way and now we simply just mount our piece of stock to the board and run our code so in order to mount my stock I always start with a screw in the bottom left bring my z-axis over to that origin point lift it up a little and go all the way to the right on that piece of stock then I'm going to line up the stock with the bit making sure that the x-axis is totally in parallel with the gantry then I add in the other three screws to keep everything in place the routers then brought over to the origin point at the zero zero location the bottom left top corner and the code is run you now that the gantry has moved out of the way I can remove the four hold down screws and bring it over to the table saw to trim off those pieces of excess stock they were holding the piece in place so in order to create a border around this sign I ripped down some rectangular pieces off a two by six I then marked everything in place and cut to length on the chop saw everything was sanded to 220 grit before it was glued on as the inside edges will be very hard to sand after it's all glued in place as you can see I'm using a couple pieces of scrap wood between the clamp and the border as to create pressure on the lower part and also to reduce indenting of the wood because this is soft pine after everything is done being glued up I flip it over and scrape off the excess glue with a chisel and now it's time to reposition the clamps lengthwise to glue on the two ends these are about a 13th of an inch too long and they will be sanded flush after the glue ups complete the last thing to do is to go everything with some 220 grit sandpaper and the finish I went for was just to simply spray on some polyurethane [Music] you

Channel: DIY Builds

Views: 56,120

Keywords: DIY Builds, Build, DIY, Builds, Woodworking, how to, wood, make, custom, simple, easy, lumber, pine, stain, screw, quick, cheap, cnc, cnc table, homemade cnc, homemade, home made, diy cnc, custom cnc, cheap cnc, cost, router, cnc couter, diy cnc router, servo, stepper, motor, servo motor, nema 17, nema 23, Z AXIS, AXIS, board, controller, driver, ACCURACY, ACCURATE, CONFIGURE, inlay, PINTEREST, PINTREST, WALL ART, WALL SIGN, wooden sign, cnc sign, fusion 360, 360, fusion

Id: IvGPOMQRv1c

Length: 10min 25sec (625 seconds)

Published: Sat Jan 05 2019