Beginners guide to vbit relief carving - fusion 360 90deg v bit Workbee cnc

g'day everyone welcome to new tech my name is miles and thanks very much for watching in today's video we're going to be looking at relief carving in fusion 360. so let's get started so after my last few bit carving video infusion 360 had some questions about how to remove the islands that appear in the center of the carving and so in today's video i'm going to be covering two different techniques for achieving this the first technique will be using a dual layer piece of timber and the second one will be carving directly into your stock itself so for this technique today i'll be purely using the 90 degree v-bit tool now this is great for starters and it's certainly one of those ones that you should be having as your go-to vb engraving i also use a 60 degree v-bit now i'm going to be basing today's tutorial off the 90 degree v-bit because it's really easy to calculate your different angles on a 90 degree slope so let's jump over the computer and get started with today's tutorial okay just before we get started with the tutorial today well i just wanted to show you i have made my mouse a lot larger and made it red so you can see it at all times i've also got a keystroke logger in the far corner so if i press spacebar it comes up as a blank or any other key should come out as different letters there and then escape so that might assist you with today's tutorial to make sure you can see what i'm doing on my keyboard so before i get started in fusion 360 i thought i'll take you through how i prepare my artworks using illustrator to create my dxf files so let's jump across to illustrator there the first thing is that we need to start off by creating a new file and what's really important when we create a new file in illustrator is that we're using the same um measurement units that we're using in fusion 360. so you can see here that i've already selected millimeters and the size of my stock that i'll be using is 200 millimeters by 200 millimeters square and go ahead and click create now that just ensures that when i do export it as dxf that it's kind of talking the same format or same units there that it's easy to convert across so i'll be using a png of my logo today i've already had that in the the clipboard there so i've copied that and pasted it there you can see that it's come out really nicely it's nice and sharp it's high resolution and what i'm going to do is go ahead and trace that image now if you don't have the option above here so you can see it says image trace at the top you can also find that down on object then go down to image trace and then go make okay so when we make the image trace you can see that it goes through and traces that quite nicely i have got some strange artifact down there i'm going to see if i can get rid of that by just changing some of these threshold looks good looks like it fixed it there whoops okay that looks pretty good to me now the very last thing if you don't have this option available you just make sure you click the image trace panel there to make it appear you'll find that there's an advanced menu down here if you just click that arrow down you can find that we can get rid of a lot of that white that we don't need for this this dxf so just go ignore white you can see that that white turns directly to a transparent color and then we're just left with the black part so i'm really happy with the artwork it's nice and crisp and clean so i'm going to go ahead and expand that into line work and now we have our vector that i'm going to resize down to the correct size that i needed at it's just a bit smaller than the stock itself i'm really happy with that and i'll just convert it to lines by swapping the layers from fill to line so i can see what i've got left so i'm really happy with that i'm going to now export it as a dxf file so go down to go up to file then go down to export then go save as now here i should have a dxf option which i do and i'm going to save that in my tutorial for this and i'm going to call this new tech logo dxf fantastic save that and just make sure it's saved as it's under the 2018 that's fine scale of one millimeters to one unit is correct in the rest of the settings i'll keep as is so go okay and that should export it fine from there okay so we can now jump across to fusion 360 and begin designing our stock so let's start with creating a new sketch and we're going to do it on the base there so i can look down towards that i'm going to start with a rectangle and click on the origin there now i did say this was 200 millimeters by 200 millimeters in the units that we're using for this whoops not sure what happened there i'll go again so rectangle 200 by 200 and then click enter okay so i have my dimensions there ready to go i'll go finish sketch and we're going to extrude that by clicking the e button on the keyboard and i'm going to extrude this is going to be 18 millimeters now the reason for this is because as i was showing you this first tutorial will be on a split surface so using two pieces of i'm using two pieces of nine millimeter ply so i've just made this height twice the height of that nine millimeter to make it 18 millimeters all together so um the next thing is that we're going to import that dxf on top of the artwork so quite simply we just go up to insert go down to insert dxf and we'll go ahead and select the surface we're going to put it on which is the top surface there and we're going to find that file that i saved so let's go into okay so now i've imported that uh dxf i just need to center that okay there and what i'm hoping for is it to throw an error because this is one really common issue that i have found on fusion 360 is sometimes when you do import vector line work that it does sometimes cause an error when it's closing gaps so if i put my mouse over that area you can see that it fills in the gaps which are closed off and you can see that this line over here is not connecting for some reason that means there's a slight little gap somewhere in that line but sometimes way too small to be able to see so i'm going to show you how to fix that issue up because we can't use the engraved tool path until that's correctly closed off so let's jump into that artwork so right click down here on the last sketch that i did and go edit sketch now quite simply to close it off all i'm going to do is to click the shortcut sketch shortcut menu by clicking s and then i'm going to use the offset now the reason why i'm using offset is uh that when we uh reduce it and i'm going to reduce it by 0.1 um of a millimeter when we reduce it actually closes that shape smaller and then closes any gaps that might be open that we can't see so i'm just going to go okay and now voila we can now see that uh there is a closed gap here and we can we can't see any differences within the artwork from from what we need 2.1 is really not a massive difference to use you can make it even smaller than that if you want to so i'm really happy with the artwork now we've fixed any issues with it and the last thing we need to do is just go ahead and extrude that down now i'm going to extrude it um by 9 by 9 millimeters so i'll go minus 9 because that's the uh the size of the material that we're going to need to cut through to make it through that first top layer and then go ahead and click ok so obviously it depends on the thickness that you're using can use any size that you need to as long as that your v bit can dive down that deep okay so i'm really happy with the artwork so far and uh what i've modeled up and now we're ready to jump across to the manufacturing tab so down in the manufacture tab we're going to do a new setup we're going to create that's going to be the model which is the body and the stop point i'm going i always tend to use the bottom right hand corner for any of the reference points um and then i don't tend to put any additional stock on i just uh put it as is and then go ahead and click ok so this first part will be very simple you've probably set up the engraved tool path before so i'm going ahead going to go ahead and just select the engraved tool path now i've already selected the already set up the uh the 90 degree v bit so this works on a 45 degree angle this is another sorry a 22 millimeter diameter bit go select i'm going to change a couple of values here so my spindle is actually i have manual control over it i rather do that than have it set in the program ugs doesn't allow on the fly to change the rpm so i like to do that manually so it doesn't really matter what i put my spindle speed on at the moment i'm just going to put this as surface spears 27 or 2700 and the cutting feed rate i believe is 2400 that's fine now i'll change my no i'll just leave those sorry okay i'll go across to the next tab now the contour selection all i need to do is select the top surface i don't need to select the base surface for the engraved tool path um however i will need that bottom selection later on so i'll go ahead and select that looks pretty good um and then i'll go through to this one now i need to tell my v bit where to stop so i need to tell it where to come down to and stop here because in these large areas what the v bit will tend to do is just dive as deep as it can so i need to kind of create some uh kind of a barrier or place for the v bit to stop so it doesn't go through too far into the next layer of material so what i'm going to do is for the bottom height of my stock i'm going to do this as a selection so i'm going to go ahead and select that surface down there which is good that's the face now the offset because i've added some tape in between both of these layers to keep them together double-sided tape that takes up about a point six to point eight millimeters of a difference but what i'm going to do is put this as a minus uh let's say let's put it as -1 and the reason for that is is that i actually want it to go all the way through down through the tape that i've got down here and then just kind of kiss the surface underneath and that's really important because if i've got an artwork which has many separate pieces i want to know a reference to where i need to glue them later on so it's really important that i do a slight extension through that it might be a bit too aggressive point one i might put it down maybe let's say 0.8 so i'm really happy with that it's going to go through and just kiss that base surface and draw an outline of where my artwork needs to be re-glued down to later on now in the passes i'm just going to leave this as is i'm not going to put multiple depths on them however this is quite aggressive i'm going through the 9mm ply using the 45 degree end mill um so i'll see how i go it is ply so it should cut through it pretty pretty easily pretty well and no settings to change in this last tab here go click ok all right so that's gone through quite easily you can actually see that that dives down and goes through that base part which i wanted to so it's going to go through and start scoring that underneath layer some of these parts will not dive through because that 90 degree angle doesn't exceed the depth of that material so i'm really happy so far how that's looking what i'm going to do is export that now as the tool path and jump down to my machine and see how that looks [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so i'm super impressed on how this one turned out um obviously that there's going to be some issues if you have um floating pieces that you need to carve out they might dislodge through the carvings so it's really important to make sure that you keep an eye on these parts and make sure that the the sticky tape the double-sided sticky tape that you use is certainly strong enough to hold those parts down so there's some ways that you can use this really well and then some ways that you might choose to do the other version instead the other thing i quite like is because i went an extra 0.2 millimeters down into my stock it did engrave the outline of where i need to place my my carving at the end but i didn't choose to use this underneath however this will be a great guide for you to follow if you need to place different parts down back onto your main background stock so so let's jump over to fusion 360 and check out how version two is achieved okay so the second part of this tutorial we're going to be using a a solid stock so we're going to need to add on to the tool path that i've got at the moment so what i'm going to do is going to delete the tool path that i did have here so i'm going to go through and go delete we're going to reset up this so i'm going to leave this setup as is so which is fine i'm going to leave the artwork as is but i'm just going to put a new engrave toolpath there i'm going to go ahead and select my 90 degree v bit that i had before and just make sure those settings are correct which i'm pretty happy about i might put this up to 2700 i could probably go much higher than that but because i want this to look quite nice and no major um juices or imperfections in the cutting area i'll keep it quite slow for today's tutorial so going across to the geometry i'm going to go ahead once again and select just that top geometry for the v bit to come through and and cut out now this is going to be a little bit different to my previous technique i'm still going to select the bottom selection there but i'm not going to have an offset so i'm going to keep that as 0 so it's going to the v bit is only going to reach down to this surface here and then in the passes i'm actually going to do this as a multiple depth so i know that's nine millimeters deep so i might just do the maximum step down as four millimeters because that will almost reach halfway there it will just stop any deflection or any issues with the tool bit diving too far into your piece of material too quickly so i'm going to do that in two different passes and i'm going to leave that as is go okay okay you can see here that that's cut really nicely but the issue is is when you do this engraved toolpath if you're using this new technique that i'm doing today we have all these islands that we need to get rid of so that's quite simple to get rid of because we're going to come in here with a 3.175 millimeter flat end mill and we're going to come in here and clear this away but one of the things is that we need to keep away from exceeding this area where the v bit comes down and so i'm going to go through today on how i set up my tool path to avoid it kind of crashing into these slopes on the side of the text so we're going to go ahead and create a pocket a 2d pocket now i'm going to go ahead and select the tool that i'll be using for today so that's the 3.175 um flat end mill and go select okay and i could probably go quite aggressive into this put 2700 for the moment now i'm going to put the ramp feed rate as 1200 and oops and then do a let's say 800 plunge even though there's no plungers in this one that's fine go ahead the pocket selection i'm going to be clearing out this area here but as you can see here it's not recognizing the 45 degree angle so i've just got a quick diagram here to show you what i'm about to do with the v bit here we can see that we're going to be using a 45 degree angle to this angle on the corner here and this is where the v bits come down to at the moment so we essentially just need my my flat end mill to come up to this line now if i just show i've done another layer here i'm going to unlock that so essentially what happens is the v bit comes down and cuts into this area and we know these dimensions already so we know we've already gone down nine millimeters we know that this is a 45 degree angle so we know that the the the border or the boundary around where that v bit has touched on the base surface is also nine millimeters and that's why i really like using the 90 degree v-bit to do a lot of my carving because it's super easy to to figure out um your your width of the border so with that said let's go ahead um we're going to be doing let's have a look yep okay so we're going to go down to the bottom height once again so i'm going to go selection and click on there just to make sure that's the same surface as we use for the base of the v bit and then in the passes we're going to do a stock to leave now the first radial one is how much stock is it going to leave from touching the walls so we've already established that that is nine millimeters we've got nine mil down so it's also nine mil of a border and then the axial stock which is the the vertical axis we're actually going to leave that as zero so we want it to go down and touch that base we're not don't want it to have an offset from that stock there and i'm going to leave the rest of the settings pretty much as is and then go click ok and hopefully with that magic we can see that we've done pretty well so far so it's been able to establish that um it's this area around here that we need to take out because these areas are probably too small to get in here to cut it out and the other areas didn't reach down to that surface so it's done a fantastic job in figuring out what needs to be removed however you can see here that we do have a couple of areas where that flat end mill could not reach because it's obviously way too small that area for that that surface to reach so i'm going to teach you a really sneaky uh little shortcut on how to clear these areas out without changing any of the tools that we've used already so i've only used two tools the 90 degree v-bit and also the 3.175 end mill so what i'm going to do is i'm going to trick my cnc to think uh thinking that they're using a really thin end mill that's the thin end mill that i'm going to come in here it's kind of a fake end mill that i'm going to be using to come in here and clean these sections out what i'm going to do is i'm actually going to use the the tool of the 90 degree v bit to simulate that really fine tool to come and clean these areas out okay so the next part is to use an adaptive clearing so for the adaptive clearing i'm going to select and i've created a fake tool here now this is a .05 millimeter flat end mill you can see how tiny that is down here so if i just go into that oh if i just go into that tool let's have a look at it let's go edit tool you can see i've just called it a fake tool at the moment because it's so fine and so small so it's 0.5 of a millimeter and i'm not actually going to be using a fine tool like this i'm going to be using my v bit tool so if you imagine there is a 90 degree v bit here i'm going to use a v bit tool to use for this tool path now i'm going to be using this one because it doesn't actually recognize a v bit tool as a valid tool for an adaptive clearing so that's why i have to make a fake tool for it so essentially what the v bit's going to do i'm going to join both of these um tool paths together and after it's gone through it and completed the the chamfer or the vee bit carving it's going to go through and simulate what this really fine bit is going to do to clear away any excess parts that it's missing so once again geometry i'm going to use this area here so i'm going to use the rest machining so it's going to figure out from this previous tool path which is a 2d pocket i was using a 3.175 millimeter end mill and it's going to figure out what it couldn't cut out so i'm going to once again select that base just in case it's going to throw any area so errors in passes stock to leave once again i have to set it the same as what i had previously for the past tool path so i can figure out the border around that chamfered area and then the rest is going to be fine so fingers crossed this is going to work well there we go so as you can see here that this 1.5 millimeter has been able to reach in most of these areas here which the uh v bit is going to be replaced for that tool path and it's going to come in and complete any areas that are not um cleared out so i'm going to simulate that just to show you really quickly so there's the v bit toolpath coming in on its first depth and it's going to come through and do another depth that's the 3.175 mil and then that last little bit to come in here and clean out any areas including these really tiny little area over here um i mean i could make that tool path even smaller if i wanted to um also that that tool bit to uh to come in here a bit further but i'm not going to worry too much because timber it's so easy just to pre-sand those tiny little bits out you probably won't see it anyway so i've kind of finished uh what i needed to do here for my setting up my tool pals and what i'm going to do now is when i actually run this on the machine i'm going to start with my pocketing first so it will go through and clear out those large areas which i don't need that material in to start with and so it's not going to put as much pressure on to the v bit when it comes through and starts cutting so i'm firstly going to export the 2d pocket and then the next one i'm going to group both by holding down control the engraved 2 and adaptive two and i'm going to right click i'm going to export those together so essentially when i go post process and then i'll save it out it's going to run the first one the two passes and then go through and clean this area out actually there was one other thing that i wanted to do is a final pass with the v bit just do a cleaning pass so what i'm going to do really quickly i'm just going to uh duplicate this toolpath here i'm just going to put it at the end but what i'm going to do is instead of doing multiple depths i'm just going to turn that one off so essentially what i'm going to get it to do is do the first pass of two passes it's going to go through and clean those little corner bits up and then it's going to go through once again and do a full pass just to make sure there's no areas that it didn't clean up very well so i'm going to click those three tool paths right click and post process and then let's go down to the machine and see how this one turns up [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] so [Music] so [Music] [Applause] [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] now i think both of these are certainly valid ways of doing the relief carving for logos and text um there are a couple of things to keep an eye out for some pros and cons of both so probably the the best part about this one is it's really quick to do and you do end up having a really nice clean finish which is hard to come in here and sand however there could be some issues with cutting with the v-bit tool where pieces might become dislodged if they're sitting by themselves outside the main part of the stock the second part about this which you might find a bit of an issue is to get two pieces of stock that are the same size especially if you want to go for some really nice timber where it might just be coming in a slab itself and you can't separate them so this way is certainly one of those ones where if you're using two pieces of timber that are already cut to size you can save a lot of time and money doing it this way however this for me has just come out beautifully and i'm really happy with the final outcome of this carving this is my go-to type of carving if i'm to do this uh 45 or 90 degree v-bit carving around itself so i hope you've learned a lot in today's video and don't forget to subscribe give me a thumbs up and i'll see you next time

Channel: NEWTech Creative

Views: 9,325

Keywords: fusion360, fusion, engraving, vbit, v bit, 90degree, 90, degree, carving, timber, camphor laurel, workbee, workbee cnc, cnc, relief carving, tutorial, ooznest, bulkman, 2.2kw, spindle, beginners guide, creative

Id: nJOz_teWPcM

Length: 34min 50sec (2090 seconds)

Published: Fri Apr 30 2021