Full Tutorial On How To Fix A Drywall Crack Like A Pro

hey everybody scott the bless drywall here in uh west houston and katie doing a southern style so got a crack here i'm gonna show you how to fix the easiest way that i know how it's a real what i'll call ugly orange peel so we'll get to that at the backhand but i always try to cut a little slit down the center separates that tape and separates that joint gives a little breathing room we've had extreme heat here so these cracks just appeared in the last couple of months at this customer's house so i don't know if it's the heat that got it back side of this wall's a garage so it's unactivated [Music] try getting [Music] and we're ready to go so i got some plaster of paris you can refer to a video i'll put it in the columns that'll mix plus three mud plaster repairs make sure your mud is nice and full that's how you get blisters if you're still seeing paint through your mug prior to the tape that's how you tend to get blisters shooting six inch knife i'm applying basically half the knife i call it half a six so i wanted to tell y'all this particular tape right here is called regular mesh tape it's self adhesive i do not use it if you look real close there's holes in it i've fixed thousands of patches that people have used this tape because it doesn't cover the joint so you have holes in it so eventually the mud over the joint will crack so i've used this several times in other videos this is fiberfuse if you use this fiberfuse as you can see it's complete it doesn't have a crease so you can't really use it on angles unless you roll it but it says 70 stronger than paper tape and paper tape is what cracked here so this is what i use it's my go-to and this tape is very very difficult to blister so we'll stop there i'll just wipe that bottom in and then add a little mud over it you always want to go a little bit past your crack make sure it's starting anywhere it'll cover so i like to like one side at a time with this tape because it might tend to break on you if you go center so if you just do one side at a time and then go center it'll lay down real nice same thing i'll wipe that bottom first then you talk i'm putting all my pressure on the bottom and not just center laying it down flat so here we go so this is up that joint the sheets line up horizontally where they line up together is called a butt joint so we're just going to put a knife on there and as you can see it's rocking so we're gonna have to put some mud on there more than just 12 inches so i'll overlap to this side of the tape when i'm putting that side and then this side as the other way so essentially it would be 22 inches of mud fill that in real good both sides so here i'm going to put 12 inches of mud so i'm going to come down where that 12 will touch on the next point so we have a nice transition [Applause] all right so we're good and full here i'll do my feather edge i'm doing almost all my videos just touch the left side only about two inches of that six is touching what we call feather edge all the way around so if you angle in it'll push that mud in so i'll start here and then get up 12 down the center get it nice and full to that ceiling straight down so i'll feather edge again with the 12 and i'm just going to lay that edge down right in the middle between the edge and the center of the joint [Applause] so what that does is your center is the hump so you're building that mud out in the middle of both sides and this is plaster once it sets up we're going to be able to rake it which i'll show y'all this is a flat it was a flat at one point right now as you can see it's not but really it's that low side that's bad so i'll do a little scraping on the bottom there kind of help with your mud but i'm not going to go quite center i'll go a little bit low just over the tape so majority of the mud's gonna be on the bottom of the scene now every joint's different this used to be a flat but now that it's moved there's a bit of a hump in it there's no lights above here nothing shining down so we'll just fill a little bit under give it a little extra cushion on the bottom same thing feather edge so i'll put all my pressure on the top and let that mud kind of roll down so i don't have any edge on the top very slight and i'm just going to feather edge down a little bit kind of leave that mud in there so most of your mud is on the bottom of that joint so this will take a few minutes set up 10 to 15 minutes i'll mix it really loose another thing with the plaster if you put a little more water in it and loosen up your mud uh when you add the mud to mix it and you can refer to the other video um you get a little more time out of it so we'll let this set up we'll come back and we'll go from there all right we're back so it's roughly 10 minutes over this this eggshell paint right here a lot of times this plaster will take a little longer it might even be 15 minutes and it's still a little tacky but because it's not completely dry i'm able to sponge these edges so before i even skim it i'm gonna sponge these edges down this is a really rough texture if you look at it it's kind of protrusive it's sticking out so really important when you're doing patchwork that you don't have that edge now you can use regular mud i use a plaster because i've been doing it for 20 something years and that's what i'm used to and i'm able to get it right and move through it quickly plaster moves pretty fast if you don't mix it right so you can use 45 minute i prefer pro form usg is a little gummy and it takes longer to dry but 45 minutes if you mix it just straight with mud get it to your consistency you'll get about 35 40 minutes out of it and when it dries it'll it'll lock up so the same principle it has plaster power in it but as repair man we're going to move quickly and my boy eli is fixing to do this texture he's a five-minute man he loves five-minute i think five minutes a little more porous than plaster and you don't get near as much time because you got five minutes and that's it so i'm gonna get all these edges sponge before i do my raking so you just want to get you don't get into the mud too much but you want to make sure you get a good blend on that edge and then when we skim we're going to stay out of that and just stay in the middle [Music] this is just a regular vegas grout sponge we use it for drywall it's a little damp not too wet you don't want it running down the wall so as you can see we got a real clean transition now so we still got all these imperfections so as you can see we're kind of a little bumpy i left that lap mark right there and i've got a few lines little cup bubbles and stuff so we're just going to rake now a lot of times this will cheese which it is doing right now over this eggshell when that happens you got to be really really careful and really base it on your skin some reason it reacts differently over an eggshell over a flat you don't have that problem but you want to kind of mold this best you can and we'll leave the main detail as you can see i'm cheesing i don't know why over eggshell does that's over certain paints so we'll be real careful we might cut this and wait just a little bit let this tack up a little bit more i'll be right back all right we're back again so a lot like i said with the eggshell when you put plaster over eggshells sometimes we had this problem where you see it kind of cheese up and i was trying to rake it out but the little bit of leftover i had sitting on the counter over there was rock hard in 10 minutes this is probably about 20 minutes we actually put a fan on to help set up so hopefully we're good without the cheese i'm gonna break this thing out real clean i'll take all the excess at a rake and just fill all these pit holes in a little bit so we're gonna put a real real tight skim on it and then spray it immediately so you don't want the skin to be too big so you want this big enough really to just kind of i call wax all likes off so this plaster doesn't shrink so it's it's a float the skim coat's just going to clean it up now i must set up enough where i can lay this down and rake it so essentially if you're doing regular mud what i'm doing here with my knife would be what you would do with a sample but as being professionals we're trying to get in and out we're not going to come back tomorrow to sand it so we're going to get as pretty as we can right now so we can finish the job and go to the next one so a little bit of excess that i pull i'm just putting it right back on and filling all my indentions it's not a lot of pressure and i call it a high knife just lift your knife up real high with kind of medium pressure not a lot of pressure so now we've got everything laid in i'm gonna do what i call an inside skim so this is just regular plus three mud straight out the box a little thick so i'll put a little water in to kind of loosen it up and i use my six to go on that edge i'm gonna stay about a half inch inside that patch so this is my plaster edge it's already spawned just nice and then i'm gonna stay inside that edge to give me a nice even inside so you can put on with a 12 i like to put it on with six so i can directionalize and put it exactly where i want it then you feather edge again stay inside the mud just a heavy texture so you get bumps i'm just filling everything in right now now we've got a full coat of regular mud and i'll do what i call a 60 in the center take that six and lay down that center completely nice and tight all the way through then i'm gonna wipe a 12 with tight 12 on both sides so you want to get that corner right and i'm basically wiping it all off all i'm doing is staining it i'll show you some new lines of trash so when we spray this it's going to cover a little bit imperfection that you might see so now we've got it nice and tight if you've got any edges just roll that edge in and i'll probably put a sponge on that same thing here stay inside that edge same thing just feather it inside i'll keep my knife inside that mud and feather edge and everything in the middle so we don't leave an edge on the bottom you got gravity so i'll put that knife up a little bit keep it pushed up not falling down so you can feather it into it get your seam nice and straight so now we have no lap marks i've got a little bit of edge and i'm just going to touch that with that sponge you can see just a little slight edge just touch that up a little bit the wet mud will leave streaks so you want to kind of stay out of it and just on that bottom edge just a little bit and over here we had a little bit so i'm gonna get my boy eli in here he uses a different hopper and he's just got a little pancake compressor my other videos i've got my big rig but for the smaller stuff he has perfected using what you guys probably will have eli all right so this is uh just a simple hopper um this is just for the air blow how much air pressure you want it uh this kind of tip it will shoot different kind of testers either splat and drag big heavies splatter uh you re reduce the how much money you want from out of the tip from here so on this one it's just kind of ugly kind of texture we're going to go medium air we're going to go closer to the middle and we'll go from there we just shoot it first try it a little bit don't put the pressure too much on the trigger it puts the pressure on the trigger all the way it's going to blow more texture so we're going to start first and we go from there as you can see we need a little bit more air [Music] so you don't want to go too much and you want to kind of go on that outside of the edge so you help blend into here so this is really sporadic the original texture so we're not going to fill it in as much as you normally would it's based on it just based on whatever the texture is is how you're gonna put uh you know how much mud you're gonna put on the wall so there it is this guy's done we're pushing real close right now to a 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Channel: Scott's Sheetrock Services

Views: 369,097

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Id: bEVONQ9-RDk

Length: 16min 56sec (1016 seconds)

Published: Wed Aug 24 2022