Forging a basketweave damascus take down bowie knife

hey folks welcome to the channel today's build is going to be a basketweave Damascus fighter made from 1084 and 15 and 20 steel and some carbon fiber for the handle here is what it's going to look like except it's going to be a takedown let's get started I've alternated the 1084 and 15 N20 into a stack and now it's time to get it in the Forge so we start by Forge welding this together this is actually a pretty basic Forge weld there's nothing really complicated about forging this piece the graphic in the corner shows the Billet that we started with now that the layers are Forge welded together we can draw this out into a long Square bar the forging process introduces a little bit of distortion so our bar at the end is going to look something like this the pattern we're trying to achieve is a basket weave after we get this in a long Square bar we're going to cut it up into four rotate the pieces and realign them like this we've almost got this to the thickness we need a couple more Heats just to get it nice and even and then we'll take it to the long long flat dies just to make sure it's nice and level and flat so we got the Billet all forged out it's a one inch by one inch square by about 16 inches long cut in half cut in half again okay so I've cut them up into four I've ground the and etched the edges and I've taken each one and turned it 90 degrees put them all back together so now we're going to grind the sides the insides and Forge weld them back together now that we've got these four pieces forged welded back together we're gonna draw it out into a long Square bar again we want to make this pattern a little finer so we're going to replicate that again and get this remember folks the graphics you're seeing is what the end of the Billet looks like we're going to have to get that on the top of the Billet so later on we're going to have to tile it so now we've just repeated that whole process that we did cut it up into four re-stack it re-weld it back in the Forge when I'm doing a four-way I do like to use the squaring dies just to set the first Forge weld because that applies pressure in two different angles actually four different angles at the same time then I'll move on to the flat dies so by the end of this forging session we want the Billet set up so it's in the proper orientation for tiling and we'll talk about that in a little bit all right so here we are after Forge welding the second four-way together you'll notice that the Billet is not Square anymore um it's wider on one side than it is on the other that's because we got to tile it so there's a little test etch This is the End piece so the layers aren't quite as straight here just because it's an end I'm sure in the middle it's going to be a little better so we've got our Billet all sliced up here now we're simply just going to restack it like this keeping the numbers all aligned here we got eight full slices excluding the end pieces so that's really good now we just need to grind all the mating sides here we go for our final Forge welding session we want to reduce this by at least about a half so let's see where we're at now I've ground off the edges and uh and the mild steel let's take a closer look here so here you can see our pattern which looks really cool now that I've got all the mild steel removed we're forging it to the thickness we need for a knife I also want to mention on this build we're not going to be forging the knife to shape we're going to be cutting it out of a Billet because we don't want to distort this beautiful pattern we just created well folks here is the final Billet it came out at 14 inches um it's 3 16 thick uh in a I just love the pattern here I'll see if I can get a closer look here for you guys to check it out you can see there's just a little bit of distortion in each Square I think it kind of adds to the uh the pattern a little bit now we're going to lay out our knife pattern on the Billet and cut it out and no we put the Tang where that flipped tile was so it won't matter now I'm smoothing out the profile on the grinder and then we're going to move to doing the false Edge and now I'll grind 80 percent of the bevel before we do the heat treat the pre-heat treat bevels all ground now let's do some normalization thermal Cycles and get it in a heat treat it's time to turn this piece of Steel into a knife and that means Heat Treating here I'm dipping it into Park's 50 quench oil to harden the steel so I've ground the Flats on the surface grinder now we're going to take it to the HRC tester and see where we're at foreign 59. let's give it one more shot 59. now it's time to do the final grinding of this knife now that I'm done the bevel I'm moving over to the mill and squaring up the shoulders so here it is after Milling the shoulder it's got a nice flat area I have a flat spot here and here for the guard to fit I'm just doing a little sanding on the ricasso area just so I don't do this later and change the fit on the guard I have a piece of mild steel for the guard and now I'm just Drilling and Milling the slot so I created a template for the guard and kind of Drew it out on top of my guard here now we're just going to grind to it the reason I want to get close is because we're going to be putting pins in uh lineup pins and I want to make sure that the pins are not going to be off the side or there's going to be scallops in here so I want to make sure they don't interfere anywhere so there's the guard and the spacer with the lineup pins all nice and solid in there now we gotta start on the handle but before we do that I need to fix the Tang here you notice the Tang is very straight um and I need it to curve so next we're going to put just the all thread in here because of course we need the the pomal nut to screw into that so I've just got some quarter 20 all thread and um I've had comments before there's absolutely nothing wrong with welding a piece of all thread in here you just need to make sure you normalize this area after you weld it so I've got the all thread welded on I've normalized this whole thing I kind of smoothed out the edges now we can think about the handle so we're going to be using this carbon fiber and I have these in little sheets and this one is almost the thickness of my Tang so I'm going to kind of do a frame here and then I'll be able to just stack this and glue all these epoxy all these together so while the handle is gluing up let's focus back on the fitting so we have the guard in the spacer now let's talk about the pommel and the pommel nut here I'm drilling a hole in the pommel for the pommel nut and this will secure the pommel to the Tang and now it's time to make the pomel nut on the lathe first we're going to drill and tap to match the threads that we have on the Tang now I'm making a little decorative end on the end of the pomonaut okay so we got our handle all done let's fit it up and see what it looks like okay so it's snug doesn't move around which is great now it fits nicely in there I also drilled a little hole this way through it so we could take an eighth inch drill bit and tighten it down now I'm drilling the holes for the lineup pins so that things don't move now that we got everything put together and perfectly fit no gaps we're going to take it all apart start from the top now we're going to finish all the sculpting on the guard okay folks now I want to put some scallops okay on this guard they'll basically be scallops like this so I've put some layout fluid and I've drawn a marker here and here so that's where I want that scallop to be removed from and on to the spacer the spacer the pommel and the pommel nut are going to get some gold inlay to do inlay I start by engraving a channel after I have the channel engraved all the way around I'll go back and add dovetails and that'll make sure the gold doesn't come out and this is the fun part pushing 24 karat gold wire into the channel now that the inlay is all done we just got to sand it and make it look pretty so here we are finished with gold inlay it's come out really nice sanded to a just past 220. I still have to do the relief on this one right here and then of course bevel this guy after this I'm going to sand and buff all the fittings and then they're going to go into hot salt to turn them jet black so we got the salts at about 200 and 285 degrees just a little over we got a nice rolling boil I got my parts sitting in the cleaning solution now it's time to get them in the salts they'll stay in here for 15 to 20 minutes now it's time to shape the handle to make this much more comfortable to hold now I'm putting my Maker's Mark on the blade and then I just need to etch it are you guys ready to see the completed knife [Music] [Music] thank you [Music] foreign [Music]

Channel: Tyrell Knifeworks

Views: 300,944

Keywords: Forging a basketweave damascus take down bowie knife, basketweave damascus, damascus knife, damascus bowie, forging a bowie, forging a bowie knife, takedown bowie, making a takedown knife, takedown knife, tyrell knifeworks, making a bowie knife, how to make a bowie knife, bowie knife, how to make a bowie

Id: 4rE_GrJhCrs

Length: 18min 9sec (1089 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 25 2023