Forging a Damascus Viking Spear

folks welcome to the channel today's  build is going to be a Damascus Viking   Spear and it's going to have the river  of fire pattern on it let's get started you can think of the river of fire pattern  as a wavy feather so we're going to be doing   feather Damascus we start by welding up  this stack and getting it in the Forge [Applause]   after a little dip in kerosene to help  with the forge weld we're going to get it   in the Forge then after it heats up we're  just going to hit it with a little flux [Music] thank you the first step is to forge  weld this stack together the graphic   in the corner will represent  what's going on with the Billet before we get too much further I want to grind  out that weld I put on the side of the Billet   just so we don't end up pressing that in  we don't want any mild Steel in our Billet the Billet is all Forge welded together I've  drawn it out a little bit now it's time to   impart some pattern I put in the squaring dies  now we're trying to get the pattern in the corner now we're back to the flat dies and we're going   to turn this pattern into a  bar and get what you see here we're going to be restacking these bars  on top of each other so we need to draw   this bar out pretty long so we can  cut it up into a bunch of pieces foreign just squaring up the corners to  get ready for a restack here it   is restacked back in the Forge this will  give us the pattern you see in the corner just like last time we're going to  forge weld this stack together and   then draw it out into a nice long bar  that we can cut up and restack again well folks I lost a bit of footage of uh a  restack and drawing that bar out lengthwise   um so you get the idea it was restacked  stretched out and now we're gonna go cut it up   so here we are so far I've ground the bar nice  and flat on the surface grinder now I've cut   it into equal pieces and numbered those pieces  one through eight okay now we're just going to   do this to the pieces and then stack them up  this will ensure that all of our ends meet   up correctly we're going to forge weld this  all together then split it down the center once we have this tall stack all  Forge welded together and squared   up we're going to put it in the press  and drive a big stake through it and   that's going to split it into and  cause the pattern in the corner splitting this stack gave me a few  headaches but I finally got it done   now we're just going to square these up and  get ready to forge weld them back together okay so here we are so far we split  the feather I've ground the sides   this one was a little thicker uh  this way so I ended up pressing it   um and just grinding it a bit to get them all the  same and then I've taken a bunch of 1080. this was   just happened to be the thickest 1080 that I had  and I've stacked this up and you'll see in the   next step what I'm going to do here so now we're  going to forge weld this all together this way now that this stack is all Forge welded  together just like always we're going to   square it up and then I'm going to draw it out a  little bit just so I get the length that I need now it's time to make that wavy feather  I've drawn scallops on the side of this   Billet and we're going to grind  away opposing scallop then when   we reforge this it's going to make  that feather snake back and forth if you're looking for a 2 by 72  Grinder like mine my friends at   brought back Iron Works have  a great sale go check it out now it's time to forge this down and remove those   scallops it doesn't look like it's  doing anything now but just wait now it's time to start forging our  spear shape the back end of the spear   we obviously want wider so here I'm using  my fullering dies just to widen that part remember the feather is in the center  and there's bands of 1080 on either   side we want that feather to come to  the point so I'm using my fullering   dies to pinch that point so that the  feather will come right to the tip now it's time to move to the Anvil  and a hand hammer for the finish work I want to make sure that the feather  is perfectly lined in the center and   serpentines down the blade in places  where it's too close to the edge I   just Hammer a bit and thin that out and  that will push it back towards the center after a quick check on my  Dimensions everything looks   pretty good I'm getting really close [Laughter] so here it is after forging um pretty  happy with how it's turned out it pretty   much matches my design a tiny bit shorter  but nothing I'm going to get worried about   um when these things get ground we'll have  a nice sharp point in here and you guys   don't really see it but the feather just kind of  meanders down the blade I really really like it   and you can see here that it's it's got super  thin as it gets right to the tip so I'm really   happy with how it's turned out now we're going to  put a little bit of profile on it but not too much   um because we need to forge weld the socket on so  I'm going to clean it up a little bit cut this off   um and get ready for this Forge weld the only  reason I'm going to do the profiles just to make   sure I have it centered up here but um no sense  this is going to go back in the Forge again for   the forge weld so there's no sense grinding  all the scale or anything off of it just yet   let's move on to the socket and get this going  so the socket is going to be a piece of this   this is inch and a half just 10 45 steel what  I'm going to do is cut a section of this off   and I'm actually going to do the cone the  socket in the lathe we're going to make the   interior cone here with one of these so I'm  just going to drill all the way through this   okay that'll create a kind of a channel it'll  be about five inches and then I have a boring   bar that I'm going to do to widen it so it's cone  shaped through here and then of course we're going   to come back and taper it this way and um then  we'll cut a slot so we can forge weld this to it while this may look quick in the video this  was a better part of two hours to get this done so here we are so far here's the socket um and I just radius this because  this we're going to cut a slot in   this Mill a slot Mill this flat and then  put that about there and then TIG weld it   Forge weld it so let's go to the mill flatten  this out do our slot so I cut the slot I didn't   bother videotaping that but I've cut the slot  on the mill fitted in now we're just going to   TIG weld the seams and then we're going  to forge weld it so let's get the welding foreign I've successfully got the socket TIG welded to  the spearhead now it's time to get it in the   Forge so we can forge weld it together we're  going to be doing this by hand on the Anvil so here it is after forging I'm really happy  with it it forged welded just perfectly there's   a little bit more of a divot here than I  wanted but that's fine I'm just going to   just taper this just a little bit to take that  out then we'll get all the forge scale off of   it I tried to keep as much forage scale as  I could off of this since it already had a   nice finish on it so it stayed pretty good so  we'll just have to kind of grind that down but   now let's get all this off put the profile  to it and then we'll get to grinding bevels here we are so far got the socket all nice and  ground to 120. I did a bunch of file work to get   these the same these Transitions and then ground  the blade it's just under a quarter here and it   tapers just a little bit so now we're ready to put  in the bevels let's put some scribe lines on it foreign to drill the pin holes I've already normalized  this this is why it doesn't look as shiny as   it did before here we go time for the heat treat  this is what's going to turn it into a real blade I had to be careful here because the  socket is full of hot oil right now this is a 65 HRC file after being tempered at 400 degrees for a  while it's time to do the final grinding so I wanted to show you guys where we are so far  I've done a bit of sanding uh only got this to   220 so far um but it looks really nice the um the  socket came out really nice so far I did a lot of   work on this area here just to get a really nice  transition here on both sides and you can see I   still got a bit of sanding to do but before I go  too far and finish this off I wanted to mount it   and do some tests because I don't want to do a  bunch of tests after I get it the nice Damascus   pattern and wrist scratching it driving it into  wood or anything like that so we're going to   test it first so what I bought was it's really  hard to find really long pieces of hardwood so   I just went to um to Lowe's and I bought this  Stave which is actually from a wheelbarrow but   it's hardwood so that's what we're going to use  I'm going to have to rip this down and and curve   it uh the reason I'm not that concerned about  this is this is a commission and it's actually   going to get shipped without this so this is  really just for me to test it and show you guys   so let's get this prepped we'll get this mounted  I'll sharpen the edges and we'll do a little test [Music] foreign The Stave perfectly for this you can see the  marks all around it was a matter of putting it   in spinning it seeing what was touching and then  slowly grinding that so we've got it to the point   where it fits in nicely you can see it's it's a  good fit next is drilling the hole for the PIN   um you don't want to just randomly try to drill  this because they'll never match so what I've   done is put the drill put this in a vise the  drill bit I know goes right through both sides   then I can just put The Stave in  and drill the hole so let's do it I built this wooden Target so we could  have a little fun with this spear thank you [Applause] okay well that was pretty fun stabbing that Target  was pretty cool and it uh it threw pretty well   did discover a few things though on one of those  when the spear went in and kind of stuck in the   side it did bend the tip a little bit um which I  had to take out and in the process of grinding it   out I bent the very very tip which I just ground  out a little bit what I learned was that the grind   that I put on it was way way too um uh too much  of a bevel I think I had it at about 25 degrees   I need to put this at about 35 degrees just so by  the time it gets to the tip it's uh it's not too   thin here because we want this Central Ridge  to carry through so I'm going to put more of   an angle on it that should definitely stiffen  it up but that's why we test these things all   right let's finish her off finish the sanding  and I'll show you how I'm going to etch it so I got this whole thing sanded to 800 we're  ready to etch it so I want to put a nice design   on the socket so what I've done is I've laser  etched this knot pattern I'll show a little video   over here of how I did that what I want to do is  put this and I made this just big enough so that   it wraps around perfectly here and this is a vinyl  sticker so I can take this off stick it then what   I'm going to do is use some of this pink nail  polish that I stole from my wife don't tell her   um and I'm going to fill in  the inside okay as a resist   take the sticker off uh I'm also going to do  this one so there'll be one up here like this   I do the same thing then take  the stickers off dip the whole   um spear in ferric chloride and it should leave  that part nice and clear and etch the design honey is that my nail polish  you're using no of course not well it looks like the resist worked  okay I've got the stickers removed   all cleaned up this part with  acetone let's get it in the edge [Music]   foreign [Music]   foreign [Music]

Channel: Tyrell Knifeworks

Views: 248,624

Keywords: Forging a damascus viking spear, forging a spear, viking spear, forging a viking spear, damascus spear, feather damascus, river of fire, river of fire damascus, forging feather damascus, tyrelll knifeworks

Id: ha0zVVCXpYU

Length: 27min 41sec (1661 seconds)

Published: Sat Nov 19 2022