Flsun Super Racer 3d Printer Review, Speed and Quality Tests

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hi this is irv shapiro with the make with tech youtube channel and welcome to the make with tech lab all of it today and you can see so much of this lab including the exhaust fan on the wall and the mess in the corner and my microphone and i think one of the lights one of the backlights is in view all because i'm doing a review of a very tall printer now when i did a review a couple weeks ago of the ender 7 i thought that was the largest printer i was going to review and it still might be by far the heaviest this is much lighter than the ender 7. but this is very very tall in particular because i don't even think it's in the shot necessarily the filament reel is on top so for most of the video we're going to be zoomed in because this is really the part of the printer that you need to look at but for right now i wanted to show you the whole thing now what has me excited about the fl sun speed racer well it's advertised as being very very fast and that really isn't the exciting part for me because as i said i looked at an ender seven another fast printer i'm sure they're both similar or different we'll figure that out today but the only delta printer i'd ever looked at before was this little monoprice mini delta i actually looked at the v1 and the v2 and they're okay printers but in reality for most the things i want to print they just don't fit even this pawn doesn't fit and so unless you have a specialized application the print area of these printers is not large enough that said i was fascinated with this mechanism that you use on a delta printer and we'll be showing you some videos of this device working and it's mesmerizing to watch so if you want to learn about the fl sun speed racer so that you can evaluate whether a delta is in your future stay tuned and we'll learn something together [Music] overall for those of you that are new to the channel i'll just introduce myself make with tech is a channel that teaches people how to use desktop technologies this is a pretty big desktop technology many of them are smaller in order to make create and innovate so if you're interested in learning how to become what some people call makers today learning the things that your kids or grandchildren learn in stem class this is the right place to be so subscribe give me a thumbs up if you like this video share this video link with everyone you know and click on the bell if you want to be notified about upcoming videos this is a delta style printer that means instead of having a set of belts that move a print head side to side and back and forth potentially up and down or move the print bed up and down it uses three stepper motors and suspends the printhead on an arm and by adjusting those three stepper motors that pull on belts in each of these extrusions it's able to position this printhead it is absolutely fascinating to watch the math required to do this is more complex and so generally delta style printers often have a bit more power in their processing boards now that most 3d printers are moving to 32 bits any of the 32-bit control boards could control a delta style printer now when looking at the size of a delta style printer you only get two numbers 260 which is the print area because it's round so it's 260 millimeters by 330 millimeters now how does that compare well let me take the print surface from a ender 3 or 5 to give you an idea and you'll see that it sort of fits inside of it this is 220 not 260. um but you're missing the corners so corner to corner this is larger 330 is excellent now why is this printer so tall 330 would be about here well because the arms that control this even when this print mechanism is all the way at the top still take quite a bit of distance so it's really the distance from here to here which is the overall maximum print height now what are some of the other features of this printer well one feature that's interesting is the print head the print mechanism is very very light it's one of the lightest i've ever used but it designed to handle very high volumes of filament extrusion because when you're printing fast you need to be able to push out more filament so it's basically a clone of a v6 volcano hot end which is a well-known design this hot end has three fans on it two that are directed towards the print and one that's directed towards the heat break to cool off the filament likewise the extruder which you really probably can't see well here but i'll show you close-ups as we go of all these components the extruder is a clone of the e3d titan extruder it worked great on top of this extruder is a filament out sensor and i tested that it works we'll talk about that a bit more in a minute the print surface is a bit interesting the print surface is textured glass some people love these new textured glass surfaces some hate them you see them on a range of printers so there must be some manufacturer making this textured glass material or making the laminate i don't know if it's actually laminate on top how it's bonded but in this particular case i'll tell you it worked very very well i did clean it with just plain water rubbed it down well between each print and it's stuck very very well in fact it's stuck too well now on other printers with this type of surface when it sticks too well i take the print bed off i put the whole thing in the freezer for five minutes it gets nice and cold the print comes right off i couldn't do that here because this print surface is bolted in with three brackets six bolts now it does come off you can replace it it's not bonded to the heating element underneath but it's not something you're going to want to do every day so if you're in a production environment and you want to be able to take the prince office surface off with the prints to let them cool and immediately start printing again this probably is not the printer for you but i found a great solution go to any big box retailer and buy one of these it's called a fan so i took and i set this in front of the printer about five minutes really no longer than the time it takes me to walk to the freezer put my print in it walk back walk to the freezer check again i put it on high five minutes the print surface was cool prints popped right off now this print surface is very sensitive to temperature variations there's a very specific temperature that you need to be at or below for prints to come off if this print surface is over about 23 degrees celsius your prints won't come off if it gets below that they will come off now at about 30 35 degrees celsius this will feel cool to the touch your prints still won't come off so just keep that fan on there let it cool off and the prints will come right off this printer is quiet let me uh turn it on for a minute just so you can hear the fans and that's really the only noise you'll hear other than the extruder which seems to be a bit noisy when it's doing retractions back and forth so overall this printer is very very quiet that's because it does have tmc 2209 stepper drivers those are the chips on the control board that control the stepper motors that are mounted actually down here on this printer assembly of this printer was very straightforward basically you bolt these three columns on you bolt the top on you do have to put the arms in place and slide in the extruder that's easy to do the arms are also very light they're made of carbon fiber everything here is quite light now the front controller panel is unique it's on a little stretchy cord and if i turn it on here you'll see it comes on it attaches to the printer on a magnet and it is very simple there are only four options on here print tools set and info and set is a disappointment it's not really filled out with all the parameters i might like to change in a marlin two base printer and this is running real marlin 2.0 matter of fact it tells you here it's running marlin 2.0.8 and i've attached it to a usb terminal and verified that tools does a good job of giving you the information you need to level this printer to load and unload filament when leveling this printer you take and attach this little probe that's held on with a magnet to the bottom of the printhead and you plug it into the cable up here you go to the front panel you do follow the instructions it works great then you take it off and i don't know if this drawer was made for this purpose or not but i put it right here in the drawer because then i'm sure i won't lose it now you might say abl systems where you have to clip it on and clip it off they're not very practical because you really want a probe before each print well i do on a printer where the print bed is moving back and forth or up or down this print bed never moves as i mentioned it's bolted in so once you level this it's probably going to stay level a really long time i did it one time now loading filament is very interesting because when you tell it to load unlike a lot of printers that extrude i don't know 10 millimeters 20 millimeters of filament 5 millimeters of filament this just keeps extruding filament and the loading process is extremely good you put the filament in the top of the extruder you click load you set the temperature comes up to temperature and the extruder will push it all the way through this bowden tube which is sort of a medium length bowden tube out the nozzle and just wait for it to finish unload works the same way it first does a bit of extrusion then it pulls it back and unloads it so those options work really well which will make it much easier for people new to 3d printing to use this printer because it's easy load filament it's easy to level the print bed this printer is included in current builds of cura so i'm on a mac i didn't use the version of cura which is a bit older it's 4.4 i think i'm using 4.12 that was on their sd card because there is a version on the sd card along with some very good videos on assembling this those videos are so good there's no reason for me to show you how to take this out of the box and assemble it since the videos are on the fl sun website and on the sd card in terms of loading prints into this printer it has a usb connector i'll show you a picture of it because it's over on this side you can't see it's up on the top which is really nice and what's also nice is the sd card goes in facing up not facing down so that's just a nice touch it also has two usb connectors one that is a printer style usb connector that's the one used to access the printer and one that looks like it's for usb drives but you can't use the usb drive style connector and the sd connector at the same time you actually have to change the firmware i didn't do that so i didn't try plugging a usb key or what they call a u-disc which is technically a little bit different but similar into this device instead i just used the sd card and i tested it with a usb cable and both work now something unusual about this printer is besides all the standard goodies you get with every printer a diagonal cutter in this case they give you a small reel a filament all the screws you need a screwdriver some allen keys they also give you three things you don't always see they give you a hot end block heat break and nozzle pre-assembled so if there's any problem here if that jams you can slide this one in while you work on the other one they give you a spare heating element and a spare thermistor something i haven't seen before they also give you a spare bowdoin tube so you should pretty much have everything you need to maintain this for quite a bit of time except that if belts were to break now what does this printer cost well it was originally priced at 650 on the fl sum website more recently it's on sale for six hundred dollars actually 5.99 on the fl sun website on amazon you can find this printer for 500 bucks and at some other sites you can find it for about 450. assuming this printer does what it's advertised to do that is print very very fast has a large print area it has a filament out detector it has powerful recovery it has high quality hot ends and extruders it runs real marlin 2.0 and the source code is right on the website for the company if that's all true and it all works 500 bucks is a bargain for this printer okay now before we look at print samples i want to talk about cura for a minute when you install this printer in cura and i'll show you some screen captures of this there are two profiles listed one called fine the other called normal normal is a 0.2 millimeter profile pretty typical except that the base speed is set at 150 millimeters per second that's fast now not as fast as the under 7 which is set at 250 but it's set at 150 and we'll see how that ends up working out fine is at 0.12 millimeter profile with a base speed of 80 millimeters per second still relatively fast now i i did some changes because i for my benchmarking i wanted things a bit different in how they were structured so i've used the default profile i've taken the default profile the 0.20 millimeter profile and basically i've set the speeds to the same as fine so i set the default speed to 85 and then made all the adjustments and you'll see i also ended up making a creating a 50 millimeter per second profile because i wanted to see how fast was this printer printing at their fine recommendation how good was it and then printing at the speed you'd print on a typical printer when you want good quality let's say a ender three class printer and enter five how would it do at 50 millimeters per second and we're going to take a look at all of those but first let's look at a few more details on the 150 millimeter per second profile you'll see here that on this profile the 150 millimeters per second is the top line and this is running a real version of cura so that impacts a lot of things but a number of the other parameters are a bit different so outer walls at 75 inner walls are still at 150 because you don't really see those so they don't look perfect you don't see them top and bottom are at 70. it's pretty good speed for top and bottom layers support is at 80 travel is at 150. i've seen printers push that higher the initial layer is at 25 which is really relatively slow but it seems to work well and interestingly enough acceleration and jerk are not set in the slicer they're using the defaults in the firmware both those features are off so typical acceleration which is the rate at which you can come up to the full speed you're going to print a particular layer is about 500 millimeters per second squared and that's typical for most printers including the faster printers i've benchmarked so i hooked a g-code terminal and i'll show you a link for this but there's a free g code terminal that i built for my viewers that you can use right from a browser so if you have chrome or edge on your printer you can go to this website and use it to connect to a printer and fine-tune it so i hooked my g-code terminal to this printer to look at what acceleration was set at and here's what i found i found that acceleration was set to 000 millimeters per second on this printer that's fast and that's going to have as much impact as the top line speed on the speed of the printer so it's going to be very interesting to see how well this printer does in actual tests first thing i printed was one of the models on the sd card it's a really fun model and it's a beautiful beautiful print now you'd expect this i'll show you a close-up of this but because the bolt head and the nut are textured and you have threads here you can't really judge print quality other than the bottom it prints in this orientation and that's nice because it's on this textured print surface it works great but then i printed something a little bit more practical i printed a large vase now this vase print is not printed in vase mode this is printed in traditional print mode with the top layer set to zero the in fill set to zero and three lines in the walls so you end up with a really strong water tight vase and this is a good quality print now this is a print the filament is different so you can't necessarily compare quality directly this print came from an ender 7. now using the default settings on the ender 7 this took 4 hours and 25 minutes to print which is pretty fast it'd be about 7 hours on an ender 3. believe it or not this printed in two hours and 40 minutes i was blown away with how fast that was now when printing a vase like this they're not a lot of long runs so even if a printer can go 250 millimeters per second it needs to be able to get up to speed and that will depend on the acceleration setting so because this printer's acceleration is so fast is such a high number it prints items even with short segments very very fast quality wise they're similar they're a little different if you look at them but once again different filaments so i couldn't really judge that well next i printed one of the kiss kickstarter quality tests and it came out poor i would rate it c plus b minus on the many of the overhangs there's actually filament hanging down touching from one layer to the other the towers at the top are a mess now a lot of printers have trouble with those towers but i'm going to show you a close-up here and in this close-up i adjusted the contrast and the lighting to make it really evident what the print looks like and you'll see there's terrible ghosting on this print so i wasn't impressed with the quality now this printed in two hours and 13 minutes normally these take about four hours to print so it's fast but the quality wasn't excellent next i printed one of my favorite prints and that is to print a 2x 3d benji and i do that with big printers because i want to test big things on big printers and this print is pretty good it'd be very acceptable if this is a bath tub toy which these work very well as because they're hollow in here so they actually float this would be great and this printed in two hours and 52 minutes same print on a ender seven and that's this one here took four hours once again why is this so much faster because of acceleration but the quality on this print is much better so this ender 7 print is much better and you see in the close up here on the screen see those lines that's a phenomena i saw on a number of the prints at the highest speeds you'd get this sort of banding effect it's almost like a minor layer shift on various prints so we have to watch that as we go through these samples now i assumed this printer could do better quality than that so the next thing i wanted to do is i wanted to learn more about delta style printers and in particular how you tune them up so i'm going to take my little mini delta here which is not the same this is once again for monoprice but just to show you the parts because it's easy to demonstrate inside here you have a belt on each of these pillars and that belt is used to manipulate to pull the printhead up and down the tightness of those belts matters and what i found both for the delta and now for this printer is that people often use musical tuning devices to tune their printers because when you take one of these belts i'm going to show you a movie of this right now a video of this right now and you take and you plot the belt and i don't know if you can hear it here watch this close up here in this close up you can see and you can probably hear that you can hear that belt on this printer there's a very easy mechanism for adjusting these belts you loosen two bolts that lock it in place and then you turn a knob on the facebook website for fl sun for this printer paul hankin has a very nice write-up of using a app called pano tuner so i took that app i'll show you a picture here on the screen and i put it up next to the printer and i plucked the various individual belts and paul recommends you set each belt to about 60 hertz well this one was at 40. this one was i think at 90. this was over a hundred they were all over the place so i knew the tension was different so i adjusted all of the belt by loosing the two bolts adjusting the screw using the tuner plucking the belt until i got the same sound from each of them now i guess if you're really good you could look at deflection under a certain force there are many ways you could do this on the fl sun website and on the sd card there's a video of how they recommend doing it but this piano tuner approach and you could use any instrument tuner you could use a guitar tuner you just want to tune them so they're all 60 hertz so i took and i changed them all so they were 60 hertz so i know the tension on these three belts are all pretty darn close then i took and i reprinted this kickstarter model using the slower speeds the 80 millisecond per second speeds that i took from the fine profile but put back into the 0.20 layer height profile and with the tune belts it's a much better print you can see here on the screen here that the lines on the front are nice and clean there's minimal i can't see any ghosting at all i still see a little bit of these lines here and you can see that on the print i'll put back on the screen and the towers are good i'd call the towers average to better than average a lot of printers can't complete these at all so this was a good print so we were making progress at saying that at very high speeds you're going to get a little less quality but um boy does it print fast at moderate speeds you're going to get good quality maybe bb plus quality we're not at a quality yet so i need to do some more testing next i printed three pawns that i had modeled in another video in freecad to demonstrate freecad just to show you the impact of these various speeds the quality is similar you can see if you look very closely i'll show you the close-up here if you look very closely on the one printed at the highest speed you can see the seam a little more not exactly sure why so one was printed on an ender 3 that took 3 hours and 41 minutes the next one was printed at 80 millimeters per second that took 2 hours and 18 minutes and then the last one was printed at 150 millimeters per second that completed one hour and 12 minutes so ender three was three hours and 41 minutes highest speed here was one hour and 21 minutes that's remarkable and for this print i don't think it would make a difference now i looked at printing three calibration cats now calibration cats i'll show you on this one this one was printed on the speed racer i'll explain what the parameters were in a minute but they're designed so that you can take a caliper and you can measure the dimensions in order to judge whether extrusion is working well so this is supposed to be 20 millimeters it's 20.2 that's very good and in this dimension it's 20.15 so it's over extruding very very tiny amount let's look at a picture of these three on the left is the calibration cat that was printed on an ender five in the middle is a calibration cat printed on the speed racer at full speed standard default settings and look he looks sort of like he's melting so clearly the quality is not there for fine features when printing at very high speeds on the right is a calibration cat that was printed at 50 millimeters per second so basically the same speed as the default speeds on an ender three under five sometimes enter five is a little bit faster but generally the same range and i wanted to see if whether slowing this printer way down i could get really good prints um and this is a really good print there's a little tiny bit of banding opposite where the whiskers are and i think that's just a phenomena of a type of shadowing that you get on this type of delta printer it's because i've seen that across the board now finally i printed one more print a toy which is really a lot of fun to play with you have to find the right axes for each of these and this is a toy that you can rotate around and it's sort of a fidget toy and i wanted to determine whether the clearance is printing at the that slower speed would be good so this is printed at the slower speed um and this printed as well as is printed on any printer now one problem i had with some of the recent printers from creality is that they have a bug in the firmware where because of power fail recovery and this printer has power file recovery they don't print properly in vase mode well this beautiful print was printed in vase mode on this printer and there are two defects that you'll see over here you'll be able to see it in the close-up a little better the first one was caused by the jam on the filament reel so i had a jam on the filament reel it stopped feeding properly i hit pause now i was a bit surprised that in the pause menu there wasn't a change filament option so i manually changed the filament but then i wanted to see does the filament out sensor work correctly so i took a diagonal cutter and i cut the filament and it worked perfectly i did get a little defect in that case it gave me an option to replace the filament okay let me wrap this all up so what do i think first off i think this is a bargain i think the features the speed the performance the quality you get on this printer for about 500 is a great buy in terms of speed this is the fastest printer i've ever tested and it did that well but at the highest speeds and this is the best example to look at but even looking at this example here at the highest speeds your quality is going to suffer and it suffers more at high speed than other high-speed printers i've tested on the other hand the high speed on this printer is much faster than any other printer i've tested if you slow this printer all the way down you are able to produce beautiful beautiful prints and even at the intermediate speed which is still faster than a typical 3d printer so this took at the intermediate speed this took two hours and 18 minutes on the ender three this is three hours and 41 minutes still much faster you do get decent quality so i can recommend this printer for people that are looking for large print volume very high speed good solid quality but you'll need to do some work if you want outstanding quality thank you so much for watching today i hope you learned something i found this fascinating to really dig into delta printers the whole thing about tuning the belts was a lot of fun so if you enjoyed this if this worked for you please subscribe to the channel click the bell to hear about new videos share these videos with everyone you know and go to forum.makewithtech.com to talk about this or leave a comment below thanks so much let's continue to learn things together
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Channel: Make With Tech (MakeWithTech)
Views: 1,713
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: Flsun Super Racer, flsun super racer review, 3d printer, 3d printing, delta 3d printer, best delta 3d printer, budget 3d printer, best delta printer, budget delta 3d printer, flsun 3d printer, 3d printer review, best budget 3d printer in 2020, delta printer printing, best budget 3d printer, 3d printer 2020, 3d printer review 2020, flsun super racer delta 3d printer, flsun delta 3d printer, delta 3d printer vs cartesian, delta 3d printer review, delta 3d printer speed
Id: ikQnkSaeSuw
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 34min 34sec (2074 seconds)
Published: Sun Dec 19 2021
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