Fixing An Overdue Mistake - Morse Taper Slitting Saw Arbor Build

so one thing that's always important to remember is that I'm always learning and trying to improve what I do here in the workshop and sometimes that means I'm going to make mistakes along the way case in point is this liing s harber I'm sure most of you are pretty familiar with this tool you know it's used to cut thin channels of material or do very accurate Cuts in order to cut something in half now the blades that I buy are nothing special I just get them off eBay but I do make an effort to make the Arbors that hold them and I do that because they need to work with my Quick Change tooling system and to be quite honest when I made this one I made a bit of a hash out of it you know the first one that I made was way too short and the spindle kept crashing into work pieces or I guess let's put it I kept crashing the spindle into work pieces so as a result I simply made a longer one and that's fine and all except I don't think the Quick Change tooling system is rigid enough in order to hold this tool you know there is going to be a lot more to walk acting on the part because it is longer and it's pretty evident at least when I'm using it that there is flex there's also a fair amount of run out in the saw owing to the old lathe not being rigid enough and me not having a steady rest when making it it's safe to say that all the footage was never used and it should never be seen by anyone now that's all fine and good except I've bought some larger Saws and they are going to need a larger Arbor so let's do it all again and hopefully let's do a better job so the biggest change that I'm going to make is at the shank end instead of using a 20 mm shank we're going to use a moss taper to hold it directly in the spindle that should make for a more rigid setup now I'm using a piece of cold rolled off cut that I recently bought and that should be good enough for a tool like [Music] this I'll rough down the OD to 24 mm which is the large end for M taper [Music] 3 I can then create a step down at the end I can now get the carriage locked and the taper cut and I'm simply going to use a battery drool as a power feed I always find that I get a much better surface finished this way and it is a lot [Music] [Music] quicker [Music] and that is a pretty good fit in the M taper sleeve although some of those high spots left by the cutter do need taking [Music] down now I don't have any contact blue but so some Sharpie does work okay and as you can probably see we do have contact at both the top and the bottom of the taper and there's no wobble or play in the taper so I think I'm going to call it there and if you are wondering there is a small Gap at the top between the tool and the taper and it's not bottoming out and the final thing have to do is tap the M12 thread for the draw bar [Music] [Music] with the main shaft now turned down to size I'm going to turn down the locating ring for the SS to locate onto and that's a pretty big design change compared to the old Arbors where I used the retaining clamp to function as the clamp and the locator for the saw and that in my opinion was asking one component to do too many tasks at [Music] once and after relieving the back the saw now clicks very nicely into place I can now get a cannibal made for the [Music] clam the next thing to do is take a piece of Steel and turn down the Clapping part there and with that done the last thing to do is get it in the mill and get two Flats cut so I can hold the thing in the bench viice he okay and you know what that definitely looks the [Music] piece all right so not half bad I can definitely still see a little bit of rain out in the tool I'm not exactly sure if that's the tool or for the sliding saw itself that's a little bit out these cheaper ones can be a little bit poorly made so that can happen but on the whole it's not a huge amount and you have to be looking really at it to see the run out so I think for most stuff it's going to be just fine what's most important though is how it performs and I'm happy to say that it is better I think the M taper paired with the thicker body just make it an overall better tool and that's about it for now sorry about the shorter length video I am recovering from a respiratory infection so I'm trying to keep the talking down to a minimum and apart from that thanks for watching

Channel: Artisan Makes

Views: 48,498

Keywords: milling machine, lathe, slitting saw, slotting saw, arbor, slitting saw arbor, slotting saw arbor, making a slitting saw, making a slotting saw, making a slitting saw arbor, making a slotting saw arbor, machining

Id: S56pgaH_qZQ

Length: 10min 51sec (651 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 17 2024