Fixing 5 Common Mistakes that Make Climbers Fall Every Time

when you have relatively good hands in a cross position all you're going to do is flick your hips here we are with another anatomy of the climb and we're going to critique some indoor and outdoor projects I'm a professional climber he's a washed up Boulder bro yep where's my beanie oh a triple pumps and we have sick sick good flexibility once again oh yeah I just go for it you got it just go for it setting the heel there is in a really secure position and so that helps to kind of like initiate this move and start getting you rocked up but at the same time it's going to be quite not necessarily impossible but just difficult given uh the shoulder position to get your hips over the foot like this likely the easier thing to do here is once you get sort of settled to either shift the heel further left or probably better yet to change to a toe that's going to give you a little bit better articulation and let you kind of like drive across more and so if the foot ends up being kind of on the nearest positive part of this rather than kind of set over here it's a relatively small shift but at the same time it's going to make dipping the knee and getting sort of like slid across quite a bit more practical and you if you do and you do get that body weight centered over the foot better it's don't forget you still need to have some leg strength to at least help you push out of there you don't want to just depend on your shoulder to push out of that position so and you generally don't need extravagant leg strength for climbing there's a difference between trying to be well-rounded and trying to basically trying to train all weaknesses and training relevant weaknesses right so it's like if you have way stronger legs than arms you could be like oh well my legs are lagging but at the same time if it never holds you back then you're like well they're strong enough you know and you need to train to sort of the things that are enabling it you get good uh good return from sort of like picking the low hanging fruit and all that but sometimes we go a little too far down that rabbit hole and you start training things that while potentially useful or relevant in some sense don't actually address your goals nor are they actually holding you back and so when you're thinking about the weaknesses to train you just want to make make sure that they're still relevant to your objectives Diablo start sick WAP I remember when I first in a guidebook read yabo started we were in Jay tree we didn't have any connections yeah when you start seeing people like initiate a move really staring at the hold they're going to they're often in trouble because they're not really thinking about where their body needs to be or at least it's become sort of like second order you know and so hoping to get that next hole no it's just your focus shifts right so it's like instead of thinking about like okay I need to be here and there's a hold you're just like hold unaware super easy to do you know you start to feel kind of out of balance you're like if I can just snatch this yeah but it gets you kind of like a a tunnel vision that tends to be either inefficient or just like insurmountable whenever possible you want to feel the point you're going to move become unweighted right it's currently being used to sort of press across here it's probably holding them in more than anything and so he needs to find some way to kind of balance out so you can just take this hand off and float up and if he doesn't feel like he's not waiting this he's just gonna fall off you can kind of see that if he were sitting on that kind of better foot with the knee further across you'd have a much better sort of like Center of mass line essentially over that foot and you'd be sort of just balancing a little bit against this rather than having to crank across we talk a lot about driving with the knee and like rocking across uh rocking across the footholds and that's frequently to like get far enough to jump through or just generally speaking it's like fairly small changes in engagement make pretty big differences in how climbs go but while that sort of makes sense it's not something that's really intuitively grasped easily and this is something that I've bumped into that's like an interesting uh not really drill not really exercise but it's something that I think people should try you can do it on pads in the gym or on a step or whatever um but it really drives home the point about precise positioning with with bouldering if you just kind of like step up onto one of these things it's exactly like going up a staircase it's quite easy everybody can do it it's you know it's no no cause for a remark really but the point is that if I don't drive all the way across here and I try to just stand up it's like I'm squeezing into the ground like adductors and glutes and everything is like really firing and like it's not going anywhere meanwhile if I'm a little closer I'm starting to feel my weight starting to get over my over my heel here it's like if I really push it kind of works I'm like you kind of get up there but it's hard it's super hard and it you can kind of see it like starts to pull me into this position to make it work from impossible to quite difficult to really matter of fact is like very small shift it's generally far too easy to kind of think like this climate is badly Set uh this climb outside is Morpho I need to have stronger fingers I need to be taller I need to be better like all these things that you're sort of like okay next time I'll be able to do this for reasons it's not super actionable and it's really useful to see these cues where it's like I'm trying something that I think I should be able to do and it feels super hard impossibly hard it should be sort of reframed like a cue that you're not doing it quite right that your body position is a little bit off and because of that is feeling like quite physically daunting so anything that's in your range just should very rarely feel like physically insurmountable and so it's really useful to have that as kind of a suggestion that you're missing something rather than just feeling like defeated we're not even going to watch the start of this just check out the end we're going to just tell you this guy smashed the bottom smash smash smash look how fast he's climbing excellent Smash Mouth he did some inverted rows at the bottom sick so we get into the end here he's set up on these uh side poles he's trying to translate from one side Pole to the other and then rotate through the top Bish okay and he falls off so generally speaking side pull the side pole anytime you're trying to like roll through uh these sort of unopposed positions jugs happy jugs happy in between very sad so he gets kind of set up here and they're both luckily in Cut enough that he's able to control it and he's opposed enough through the left hand that he's kind of pinned here but now that he kind of tries to just like pull up to this jug he ends up falling off the way that he's generating here is by oops we got one of those already um by pulling through this hand as you can kind of see him trying to sort of like row that up here it does kind of work but especially uh with a somewhat down slipping right foot and this just general position it's not very stable and everything kind of blows off as he goes so super easy if possible when you have relatively good hands in a cross position all you're going to do is flick your hips so hips lead into shoulders you drive your knee in you essentially think of dropping in the other direction and trying to do it relatively dynamically if you can just flick this side into the wall it's going to just carry you up to the finishing hold and you're going to do it while having forced through the holes throughout climbing dynamically climbing with momentum doesn't necessarily need to be fast it's taking advantage of gravity imbalances whatever you can to kind of like do a move in a fluid single motion but it doesn't necessarily need to be fast and jerky it's just taking advantage of some swing that's it we have a nice high quality look at this that's Christmas are we we're looking here right yeah yeah you can really pull into the mountains up all right oh oh I've actually think he's already almost there okay which is through the Crux oh I hope it's ooh sounds he made a nice thought no that's good I mean this is mostly not a climb that you want to be yelling at it uh but the fact that he's being able to fight through oh my God he's so close oh no [Laughter] no it's again um this is the type of thing where you get a little bit of like send blind he knows on some of these other things you start eyeing up the finishing hold and you end up trying to like pull and go to it but these are side poles they're not really good at pulling down you know because he's on this foot it's like naturally kind of leaning that way and that's naturally kind of opposing these and so it like sort of works but um almost always are this sort of thing if you instead generate like that way it's going to pull you through the hands and you're going to be able to kind of like sling shut up to it yeah you see he just goes directly straight so he's he's yanking on this thing if you generate more in like this kind of Direction and kind of swing up um it's just going to give you a lot more control a lot higher and it should be pretty easy to get like way way above the jug if you're just pulling straight you're stuck and so the only thing that happens is you come out which is generally disadvantageous both through the whole end of the distance and so you generally want to make room so that you can track along your body and generate sort of more power longer almost always with side poles you don't want to go just straight you want to go like around enough and that just gives you more room for this to travel now now here's the thing though I feel like um the on the actual beta he's missing out on is if he had the the Kaya app he may have actually been able to see some other like beta videos and seen some other people try that and then he probably would have sent it so I want to say author um Bissell and I uh just just uh completely redid the bishop bouldering guide uh we we walked out to 2000 Boulders double checked everything added a ton of new lines for those of you who haven't run into it already um Kai is a new app in the climbing space that tries to provide solutions to many of the the regular questions and problems of climbing it's like an Instagram feed just of climbing it gives you a space to log your ascents much like a day but with I think a greater degree of um dexterity and ease and it now offers guidebooks as well it's a better Instagram better Mountain project and better a day plus guidebooks right fish so we kind of talked about this before but I mean a lot of that some of this these kind of moves are very row like so yep you know pull-ups are important but inverted rows we'll go back to it but just as important and Rose and pull-ups play really nice together so they're often a good pairing going smooth all the way up until there whoops yeah always with drop knees you're going to get a better like engagement through them if you really consciously think about like spreading the feet apart if you were to just straighten this leg much less straighten in kind of like point that toe it would leave the rest of this still in the same general orientation but it would lift him just like a little higher and a little further over so just be marginally more efficient you know the bigger issue here is once again little Tunnel Vision on finishes you know always well not always but frequently when you see people kind of like falling out of these positions it's like they feel sort of stable they're like oh my God it's right there let me have it and then they're off and so you basically never want to cross any drop knees almost always drop knees are best for Crossing into midline or past so they turn your body in a way that makes it easy to do this they do not turn your body in a way that makes it easy to like do this kind of thing it's almost exactly against what you want to be doing if you sort of realize that you can pin this position like he is and kind of like sneak one of these but it's not going to let you move up nicely like this and so what you see happen here is as he starts to reach up he's not really consciously thinking about that he's not consciously maintaining that twist drop knee position and so as soon as he goes up to this as soon as he kind of like looks at it and you see his hand starting to disengage watch his shoulders yeah so his torso rotates too here he's stable here he's not so stable and as soon as he kind of goes through further and he gets kind of up like this now it starts to pull his hips with him this comes disengaged this starts coming out this way and everything just blows off yeah you really kind of need to just like collect yourself and take the time to like square up and that's going to load the shoulder more you're going to Sag more you're going to be nice and solid to come to like this cool so I had too much coffee this morning makes me aggressive I'm not quite there yet I'm on the defensive cabinet inside I'm on the attack

Channel: Hooper's Beta

Views: 97,689

Keywords: climbing, rock climbing, bouldering, sport climbing, rope climbing, climbon, climbingismypassion, climb stronger, climb better, rehab, physical therapy, doctor of physical therapy, orthopedics, strength, mobility, function, training, strength training, functional training, climb harder, sport, athletics, fun, education, sport training, anatomy, anatomy of the climb, learn climbing, climbing beta, climbing technique, climbing mentality, reading routes, learn beta, climb beta

Id: tJkplxMciZg

Length: 11min 53sec (713 seconds)

Published: Mon Dec 26 2022