Is finger strength everything? An experiment...

this is my friend Arthur and he has never climbed a day in his life however he has incredible finger strength we set up a frictitious hangboard in the house and arur was curious as to what it was amazingly he was able to hang off the 8 mm Edge no problem which is something I can't do after more than a year of claiming he can do the eight that is crazy man so it got me thinking is finger strength everything how hard can you Boulder with no experience just fingers of Steel the personality of a Labrador and no fear let's find out so Arthur why do you have crazy finger strength well I think it's many things alog together I think it's because um I've been doing Judo for most of my life so in Judo are you grabbing the G the ghee a lot the ghee a lot yeah it's all about grappling in J do the main thing you train is is grip strength and also prob be my work I'm a joiner so I'm doing a lot of grips and grabs of plaster boards and plywoods and wood and so I've got quite a bit of grip quite it's quite strong forearms as well so I think that could be the reason so the question is does someone who's fit and has incredible grip strength can they climb hard if they've never climbed before we're going to find out we're going to go through the grades like from the very easiest to as hard as you can do I think you might be able to get an Orange today maybe you could get a red okay yep oh that's the next one yeah that's the next one yeah if you get a yellow I'll be truly Gob smacked if you get a purple I'll be completely confused and if you get a blue you should quit your job and become a professional climber so what would be like super super you think like like crazy Would Crazy would be purple purple right but that's not going to happen who know hope so I believe to be I want to be confident about it but I don't know maybe I'll just be Mis miserably fail you so we'll see okay so there's just a couple of things that I found a little bit difficult when I first started bouldering that the first thing is how to get back down yeah it jumping from the top is okay but if you do that like 100 times you're going to be sore tomorrow the best way to come down is to try to climb down somewhat and then jump yeah so try to do that if you jump every single time it's going to be sore yeah so the rules are the tape yeah that's where your hands start uhhuh so you can put your feet wherever um and then you just climb up right okay so I can put my feet and you can put your feet arms on anywhere I want anywhere you want just colorcoded really yeah this is actually quite hard and then to finish the climb you have to have two hands on the one hold like that to match it yeah that's called a it's called a match yeah I could just jump from there but it's just much easier on my knees if I just go down to here then just jump yeah cool right Co we straight on with the toes that's pretty good at [Music] this nice AR that's your first Boulder my first ever Boulder and success we should start with the hardest one that was that was actually pretty good you were like yeah I was going to had a whole spiel about how to use your feet but you know how to use your feet I think actually Kim told me once yeah that's that's the first thing that she told me the B use your toes to use your toes yeah not use your we might might be really really good at this cool let's step it up a bit before we do that a short message from this episode sponsor frictitious most climbers agree that one of the most effective ways to improve your finger strength is by hangboard training and I think it's about time in my climbing journey to start doing some scheduled training the issue for most including me is that the hangboard is at the gym and drilling holes into your house to mount one well that sucks frictitious make this awesome doorway Mount that takes under a minute to install onto the door and leaves no marks I got there monolith hangboard installed onto mine which has a perfect jug at the top for pull-ups or warming up and has seven edges ranging from 30 to 8 mm and a 22 mm positive Central Edge the kit takes a few minutes to assemble requiring only a screwdriver and you don't need any tools to install it onto the door frame what I like about the hangboard itself is that the edges are comfortable and don't wreck your skin so you can drain hard safely it's a really well-made bit kit and I'll admit I was a little bit apprehensive about damaging my door frame so I tested this thoroughly before working with frictitious and can confirm not a scratch so if you're in rented accommodation worry not if you feel like upping your finger strength this year without destroying your house check out frictitious my viewers can get 20% off a frictitious hangboard with a doorway Mount just follow the link in the description good wow oh my God good yeah that's it yeah nice okay didn't expect you get yeah actually really really good at the dynamic moves as well right this is hard [Music] okay okay okay okay all right nice Let's Get It On Let's get it on nice yep yes Arthur yes cool really good oh beautiful cool nice oh really good that's good oh my God go the ends easy yeah okay right onto the onto a harder one his feet are also quiet like you're so much further ahead than when I was when I started it's crazy like all the all the basic stuff you've got it down already uh this is a this is a red this is V4 I think um so this is this is proper climbing now like we're getting into it that's a that looks like a difficult move there nice right there's just no way that a beginner is able to do surely not nice yep nice okay yes I'm through this one this one is one I was worried about okay just swing the left hand up you can do it just trust it just ping it up I'm think I'm going to go other [Music] way no I'm not okay life high up you can yeah yeah that was scary it's a sppy hold nice okay cool remember where that what that foot was that I told you about yeah good [Music] ni yes K [Music] hey sick happyy that was that was that was fun this is getting fun right okay really right let's try we'll need to try a harder red now we're getting into the sort of territory that I I can't do them now we're firmly into Mike's struggling territory um cuz this is hard for this is really hard for me I think I actually don't think I've done this so come on that was good there's just no way he's getting that no surely surely not oh wait can I start you can start either way you want yeah that's the way I start yeah cool nice nice it's good it's good y cool got this one in here okay I'm stuck here get P okay oh my God yeah yeah go on AR Go [Music] On on I'm the sh yep that under clink yeah yep go on go [Music] on that was so hot I I literally nearly fell I nearly fell there you nearly fell you blast it see that you're you're supposed to fall and try again I don't think you understand this sport I think you're just better than me at this seriously man that honestly a gobs back wow yeah right okay we'll just carry on doing stuff that I that is at my level at my limit as well let's do it yeah cool this was Surly close to my limit close but but not not quite okay we're bumping up a notch to uh purple which is a little bit beyond yeah one harder than yellow I think this is the first of the hard grids um and this is about as hard as I could ever CL it's purple um these crimps are like credit cards they're really small so I think this will suit you but at the same time your feet your feet have to be good and that's my that's my weakness for sure yeah I think this is like V5 nice oh that's so small come on y yeah I was Elvis leing big time there I was like okay nice you can yep use your thumb and your hand yep nice good okay cool yep oh my God yeah right hand right hand arer who yeah nice good that's it this one's a bit better so right hand on it first okay cool I touched it God damn it I can't find anything that I can do that he crazy would be purple purple that's not going to happen yeah so there's a few reasons why I think arur might be a hyper Crusher on day one first of all he's essentially a puppy in human form I mean look at his warm-up he's full of energy and just extremely enthusiastic to try bouldering secondly he clearly knows how to fall in Judo you're getting slammed onto the mat all the time throughout the day I didn't see arur unable to commit to anything because he was afraid of falling he was just full sand PA all of that with the fact that he's in shape and then the grip strength gained from years of high level Judo makes for a very competent climber even on day one however there is no explanation for his quiet and precise feet that was definitely a problem for me when I started and still is 18 months later into my climbing Journey overall I was floored by the level he was at and a tiny bit jealous as I think he was actually better than me in fact there were only two scenarios where I was the stronger climber one of those being steep roofs [Music] oh nice [Music] good arur good yes go on come on come on you got it stick it that's set good now get the feet on there we go yeah good good good come on I don't think I don't think uh it's a strength thing I think it's just a you're you're just tired yeah pumped yeah the only other area where I was demonstrably Stronger Than arur was on the slab but this was a boulder that I set myself what I really think makes arur stand out however is his attitude and enthusiasm I mean you got to respect the hustle go on go [Music] on you said a difficult one you got it you got it your your grip endurance even though my grips are really strong for the beginning I believe your grip Andes is way stronger that's it good little CRI balance balance balance cool right foot goes behind you I'm bumped feel can't feel it yeah can know man your forearms are like like my legs see yours are softer that's a good thing that's it yes okay yeah you're looking good arter and you can grab the top of it it's okay just nice and slow I'm stuck all right go on arur go on yeah yeah good or little bit more little bit more with the right foot AR I think we should call it yeah defeated me I'll be back for this well done so there we have it as predicted um strong grip strength and just being generally in shape and judal practitioner definitely translates to climing definitely like flashing v5s is crazy um so I think arur did really well it really interesting to find that I think you're stronger than me but you you got tired a little bit earlier than I did um I think you were going harder than me anyway like you were trying a lot more um but obviously just climbing 2 hours bouldering session like it builds endurance but you should definitely come bouldering again yeah 100% I really enjoyed it and it got me addicted some of the some of the uh what is it run tracks what you call uh The Roots some of the roots we we failed now got me hooked on it I really want to come back and get him get them done definitely and like you said yeah I think I don't get tired as fast but the maybe we get tired as but I really got pumped really fast much faster than you and that's uh and you couldn't really it's you can't get rid of it just now no can't it's got It's got to take some yeah tomorrow like like honestly see once once you get like a bit of root reading and a bit of technique you're going to be you're going to be at such a high level it's crazy so thanks to Arthur for being a good sport coming down and schooling me on what it's like to be a good bould thank you very much for watching I'll catch you next time thanks for having me [Music]

Channel: Mike Boyd Climbs

Views: 113,534

Keywords: bouldering, noob, finger, strength, climbing

Id: tpR-7pMYFlA

Length: 19min 15sec (1155 seconds)

Published: Fri May 03 2024