Cat D4 hydraulic pump rebuild and direct start improvements

all right welcome back to the channel so if you saw the last video you know that I got this thing running and it actually sounds pretty good unfortunately there's three issues that are keeping me from being able to ride it around and shake the rest of the bugs out so the first problem was that the fan belt kept coming loose the second issue is at the starter or the starter wiring is all horrible and broken and the third issue and probably the majority of this video is going to be working on the Hydraulics so right now the front PTO shaft's just kind of flopping around there's nothing hooked up to it so I need to get all the the pump on and all the hydraulic lines and all that kind of stuff installed and ready to go so let's get right to it ah all right okay so this is the belt that was on there and these are kind of all over the Internet they say they fit the Cat part number you can tell they're not the cat park though because they're ridged on the back so this is a this is an actual cat belt I just bought it it cost twice as much but it's also slightly longer so the issue was this this back ring actually goes on this threaded portion for the water pump here to tighten it and then there's these spaces once in a while for the tab to go into to lock it and the problem was is that belt was so short it was just like an inch or maybe a little bit more too short so that this pulley was wider to accommodate it because the the tighter it gets the more it tightens up the belt so there wasn't enough bite for that lock to get in good like yep come on now there we go okay so this belt is still too tight I can't get this tight enough to get the lock on so I got the the cap pulley holder deal here and I'll just crank on it a little bit the belt will stretch out I mean it's a new belt but right here okay I got a temporary solution here so this is the original lock that's supposed to go in there but I made this up this is at a c channel I cut off one side so it's going to go in here and grab on that inner pulley and I can tighten it down and I know for a fact I mean this this belt's going to loosen up so you can see here on this is going to sit just like that in that little Groove there okay temporary locks are in and I can it's not coming oh it's not coming loose I'm sure there's someone out there that knows a trick to do this right but um you know originally I was wrong the the non-cat belt I think would work fine it's just this whole tightening procedure is tricky and I'm not sure the correct way to do it foreign gauge cables I have double odds coming so I'm sure will help a lot of spring is going to fly out of here when I do this smells like burning in there so far it's not looking good not looking good in there this might be a send out for a refurbishment foreign yeah it looks like there's some O-rings in here that failed and uh it's just full of rust that's not good for the electronics usually okay based on the smell that's coming out here and all the pieces that are coming out of the back I'm not even going to bother taking this apart I'm just going to take into a starter shop okay well the starter shop shared my assessment and I ended up with a remanufactured one here the other one every component in it was was basically bad I mean you know you saw the gears were all were all rusted up water had gotten into the housing so everything inside was just destroyed it's even amazing that it was even turning before so fortunately that shop does carry these because they service a lot of heavy machines and buses and that kind of stuff so we had this in stock he did have to order the correct Bendix so that would match up with what I had before it's kind of like a canted 12 tooth Bendix and this is what I'm I'm out right here so 490 bucks one other way to look at it though is I don't have a pony motor if I went and got a pony motor and had to rebuild it it would be way more than 500 so that's just maybe a more optimistic way to look at it it sucks kind of either way but it's just the way it is so anyway before I install this uh there's some bolts on this side of like the mounting plate nose cone and you can clock it so it rotates and before and a couple people notice this that the solenoid was sticking like straight out so I'm gonna see if I can rotate it up a little bit and kind of keep it more out of the way there wasn't a gasket on the old one let me just go in here and yep it doesn't fit but basically I can't turn it far enough without it hitting that gear fortunately he should still have the old one I can go back and just swap it out try to get a picture of the two side by side so you can see the difference but I think this is slightly clocked different with respect to this plate I went back to the starter shop and got the original nose cone and I do have the part number for this so I'll put the part numbers for all this in the video description because I know a lot of people were asking about that on another video foreign pretty much have to do it like here they did give me a new bushing for this at least small screw I think is supposed to go against the solenoid but there's no threads in there try this one nope that's just a hole there I think I have to rotate it one notch back which is pretty much where it was originally I think but that's as far as I can go otherwise the solenoid is going to hit the fuel line or something else foreign there [Applause] foreign [Music] starting to leak solder out the back so I think that's good let it cool off for a second it's gross part off so you can see here it's tinned all the way up past the fitting into here so that's how you know you got it tinned up good I did get some heat shrink 5 8 but it's not big enough to go around yourself enough to get a bigger size to heat shrink this thing because it's basically just held in place with a set screw which isn't the best electrical connection probably but the nice thing is you can add other electrical connections to it you can compare this to the size of the old cables all right let's give it a shot see if it sounds any better okay let's see how this sounds so I'm going to play a clip right before this uh last time I tried to start it or last time I started it you can hear the starter sound let's try it now see compressions out right fitting gear should probably check that whoa yeah that's spinning faster wow before the bat it would just stop after that nothing's even hot so that's a really good sign I think we think we're good all right we'll get the grid heater a shot I just want to test this out see if it actually works so run the grid heater for 10 seconds which I'll start here or five to ten seconds and then turn it off and then crank the engine I'll have to keep my hand on the heater here and hot there pull that off so then crank we have to let go of you foreign well I'd say that works pretty well unfortunately it's only like 42 degrees in here it's not very cold so it's uh it'd be nice to see it in cold weather because that started right up I mean that was nothing yeah all right just trying to mark up this Dash a little bit and this is going to scratch the paint that's fine foreign [Music] actually you know what I what I need to do is verify that this Hood I got fits otherwise I need to return it to the guy that I bought it from all right let's see if this fits when I bought this we didn't know if it was a D4 hood or not oh yeah this is not a D4 this is like an early D4 Hood I think uh where the exhaust because it's backwards the exhaust hole oh it's not even the right size it's way too short okay we're in the cockpit here so originally well not originally but modified this is the starter switch which is welded right here it's an interesting spot I don't know why they would do this the battery is going to come up to here air cleaners here I got this cat this is the actual cat uh switch here which I would like to use you want it on this side so you can start it heat it up while you run the decompression and all that and the throttle by the way this switch is does allow for a warm-up circuit that you hold it and then you can start it so this will the wiring for this will work for whatever I use for the heater circuit got some more stuff mounted on here so I got the hydraulic line intake obviously I can't put the switch right there it's going to hit here I don't know if I can mount it down lower because that might hit the battery so I I'm kind of starting to see why they put it here [Music] foreign hole right here oh it's right on them that's right in the line whoops yep so we turn this way to warm it that way to start it barely fits it's like a new gauge oh I could have sworn it said two and a half inches in the listing of the fit on here so this is the oil this is the oil gauge side and it's it's already a smaller one well at least they'll be matching sizes thank you [Music] [Music] go back okay I made up another one I might as well replace this one's kind of disgusting oh that was on there tight okay now that half the coolant's drained I'm gonna put anti-freeze in before I do that though I need to hook up the temperature sensor into here I already pulled the bolt out and before I do that I need to throw the dash in so that's kind of why I've painted the dash right now so I get this out of the way foreign could have saved myself a lot of trouble if I had bought two and a half inch gauges instead of two inch gauges but [Music] foreign on the right or the left I'll say right [Music] it's gonna fit yo thank goodness this is a really long line on here but I don't think you can shorten it because it's kind of if you cut into it I think there's like a gas or something in there I'm not sure I got those in all right the old overflow broke off so foreign where'd that go foreign of course this copper will turn green but I know okay time to go over the hydraulic pump here so I'm gonna go ahead and pressure wash it real quick before I work on it but just so you can see this is a number 44 pump and it's a 6w 8500 serial number so there's many different manuals floating around for these and we'll get into that later dog bad timing good girl go on go on go on go lay down there's a magnet in here not very magnety that one has a little bit of crud in it I've already pulled the filter out there's nothing in there but it's this is the bottom of the filter housing it's quite uh oh there's fluid in there yeah it's like jelly you can finally get this nut off of the stud this looks like a homemade piece here this is uh not welded very well but foreign in there you could do to clean this thing out it's really gross inside so I did break the end of this control lever off when I was removing the brush cage I think it was like attached somehow and I didn't see it but in my defense this thing has obviously been broken and welded a couple times not very well that well looks terrible oh my gosh that's heavy whoa all right well there is definitely a lot of stuff in here that shouldn't be in here but for the most part I mean there's no everything's not rusted I mean that's probably a good sign so I'm not an expert in Hydraulics although I probably better become one pretty soon but uh to me this looks like this is the pump and then uh the intake is over here and this is the obviously the control valve you turn up here and it pulls this in and out so that's the intake maybe and then it blows it out through this is the filter housing and it comes back in through here this is probably the relief valve foreign there's a lot of cleaning to do on this thing yeah it's loose on here man this thing is dirty there's just so much Grime this is all metal paste so there's no O-rings around these two lines I think these looks like these come up through these unused ports so that would make sense they are just full of this is this is wood right here so typically you don't want wood inside of your hydraulic pump but who am I to judge look at that I'm really glad I took this apart so far because oh my yeah I mean [Music] God every nook and cranny on this thing man whoa all right well never mind so you can actually remove the bushing for the control lever here but this thing is pretty tight so I'm going to leave this all in here all right [Music] a lot of shims in here be careful with these so that's the pump core there that bearing has some stuff in it let's protect these shims some of these are all bent they got these shims are I guess they're meant to curl around on this inside part Maybe oh so a stripped half use a 12 millimeter foreign there we go so new grease seal there all right foreign [Music] keep those together okay I was doing some more reading here so basically the high wear parts of this pump is this ring and then these bushings on either side and it says actually that this rotor with the the veins it'll Outlast two of these like sets as if you replace these and I can definitely see that there's definitely some wear in here I can feel it with my finger there's like a lip here I'm sure the other one's the same it's like a chip out of the bearing right there not sure what that's about your seal this is the relief valve foreign s on here oh there's a little plunger in here [Music] this is just the pickup I'm assuming to even these bolts like there's just grime up inside these bolts where there's no threading so that's a sign that everything is dirty that Seal's seen better days a plunger so I'll leave all this together but I'm going to clean this all up foreign [Music] so we don't want to mess this up oh look at that dirt this is why we're here yeah oh that's a strong spring two Springs there's so much Grime in here I just I I know I keep saying that but more stuff in here foreign that's about it for this thing I'm like I'll leave the fittings on but I just need to flush this out cleaned it up really good all right so because this thing was so dirty I am going to take these top plates off that are blank outs because there's probably Grime that has gotten up in through this channel on each side I mentioned before I'm not going to take this control shaft out because it's nice and tight in here I do see one issue though you can see right there maybe that it's there's a big gap there and it just looks ugly I think that Gap there should be no Gap there because there's a lot of space for it to move up oh yeah so check this out all this right here that's not supposed to be worn off like that so all this metal was floating around in this hydraulic system because this thing was too low and I was rubbing against here got everything broken down here as far as I want to go so basically there's just going to be a ton of cleaning here which I'm not going to film it's it's you know it's just cleaning it's not very exciting stuff here's all the wear components so there's one Seal two bearings and then just a handful of O-rings the other big wear component obviously is the pump itself ideally you would find new bushings and a ring because definitely the Ring's worn and the bushings have some some scratches on them but you know I'll find I'll see if I can find those I mean if you can find them I'm sure they're really expensive I might not want to pay it so that's that's where we're at with that and by the way worst case on this is if it is worn that just means that the blade goes up and down slower than well probably just up slower than you would want painting is kind of taking over it's a lot of stuff to paint I think all the hydraulic stuff pretty much so one thing I did find though that's kind of interesting so this is where the filter goes in the pump housing and the two bolts were missing when I took it out and like a couple of people told me that was because that's where the the CAT pump guard mounts I'll throw a picture up of it but in reality what had happened is like this plate is kind of smashed one of the bolts was broken off in the in the casting and the other one was just full of mud so at some point something had broken it then there's these brackets which go and then they go to the radiator and then there's this other nut which I think the the guard mounts to so look on this one there's a crack right here this one's even worse and then that this is completely gone so I think what happened is they rammed into something with that uh stock cat cover and it just broke it off now it's funny I would just find this because earlier on I tried this hood on and this is not the right Hood I think this is like a 5u hood or something else it's just not even the holes aren't correct but it's two inches too short so I went back to the place where I bought it from he didn't have any other hoods but I asked him if he had any radiator guards and I bought this off of them so I'm pretty sure this is going to fit on mine it has the cutout for the hydraulic lines I measured the width and it matches on the radiator and this is a much stronger guard than that stock hat one it's made out of thicker steel and you can actually take off you can take these bolts out and pull this plate off if you need to do you know service anything got the new nose cone kind of test fitted here just to see make sure it's going to fit and I'm glad I did because it actually mounts those two brackets I've just wasted a bunch of time fixing it mounts to one of them so I'm not going to be able to use those brackets at all I'm just getting once I line it up I'm going to have to drill my four holes into the that square but man I like the look of it also a big waste of time to paint the letters black because I mean the hydraulic lines are going to come through right there too there's you're not gonna be able to see any of that okay before I put this pump back together I just want to share quickly a few things that I learned about it so this is a number 44 hydraulic unit and the serial number is a 6w 8000 series there is no information on parts or like procedures for any of this stuff in the normal tractor manual for the 7u so you need to get the parts manual which is there's a lot of different serial number Series in here so you want to I what was mine a 6w so this six W 5000 up so this will work for me there's also these two manuals that I found um this one is completely worthless all the information in here is in this one for the service manual um actually a subscriber kind of just randomly out of the blue sent me an email and let me know you had the PDF of this I was looking around I did not know where to find the service manual for the the number 44 hydraulic unit but this is what it's called and this actually has the number 41 44 and 46 hydraulic control group there's also number 40 scraper and then there's like rebuilding the cylinders a lot of other useful information so I'm really happy this is a huge thank you to Simon in Australia for sending this to me there was this was not on the anti-caterpillar website Library there was some parts manuals but not this is the most complete part manual I found it can it contains all five of these groups one other quick note I really don't have any use for this anymore when I'm done and it's the most complete parts manual I found for the 44 so I'm gonna go ahead and cut it up and scan it and I'll upload both of these to the anti caterpillar website it's acmoc.org if you're a member you can view it for free if you're not a member if you went out and bought both these manuals it would be more expensive than buying a year membership so just something to think about and this one is already up there as far as Parts ordering this I get asked this a lot I found all of these parts on eBay I just type in the part number and they're there you can usually pick between this is an oem cap seal right here but there's also some generic ones and that usually you can tell when you when you go for the listing if they're generic or OEM so I got new bearings the only issue I had was finding the front seal but uh after searching online I found this old service bulletin from 1958 and they just they give the new seal number 1j8 162 that's the old one so I found that one no problem the one part I could not find on eBay was this this is the hydraulic filter and I think this is a cat only part there is no filters that I could find like on interchanges that were even close to these Dimensions this is like a 70 part and this is the only part of this entire project I had to go to the cat dealership to get all right so I painted all the stuff while it was assembled so I didn't have to tape everything off I think there's one more o-ring in here I missed yep there's O-rings right there foreign S I need this so probably Lube this up a little bit oop s pops it in [Music] that's right so I just checked a picture to verify this thing does go like this in this orientation with the handle sticking out not super ergonomic but I'm going to leave it as is until everything's all hooked up and then I might try to flip it around or see what I can get away with foreign [Music] [Music] that's good so to clean this I just hose it down with brake clean and then pressure washed it and then I just wiped some WD-40 on and keep it from resting while I painted it earlier on when I was taking it apart I found some material that I thought was wood and there was actually a bunch of it in here but I think in reality what it was was hardened gasket maker or something like that some kind of sealer so I think it's a really bad idea to use RTV or anything like that for the gasket so I got some actually legit gasket material here I'm going to make this up real quick foreign to work with I realize it just screwed up over here but that's okay I can make another little piece and then join it together with a tiny little dab of our TV later foreign so I'll just store the parts in here as I clean them this one goes in there foreign I think there's torque specs in the manual for this stuff okay I'll torque this all down at the end for now it's fine just in case I didn't do it right for the control valve this was the hardest thing I think to remember how to go back together genuine cat seals so these two outer ones aren't used so there's no reason to put an O-ring there this is like the most complicated thing to remember the order for so actually according to the parts diagram I didn't have this set up right the washer and then these are two Springs this I guess this goes on first makes sense to tighten it in there then we put this on foreign [Music] there we go so the only torque spec it gives us for these six bolts it says 720 inch pounds that's 60 foot pounds [Music] all right in there should be a floating on here too somewhere so when you go all the way up there I think that's the float there it is I think we're good oh just lost that piece of metal [Music] okay got the strainer cleaned out and I made up a new gasket [Music] foreign cartridge this is the one where component I'm not we're going to replace I did locate a couple of them but they were about fifteen hundred dollars the one thing I will do is I'm going to flip these fins around and I'll show that on the other camera that that does better close in so you can see that but besides that it's just too expensive to replace and it's really not even that worn so it it should be fine is the unworn side which was inside of the impeller so you can see the profile there it looks you know brand new this is the side that's the wear size it's rounded over a lot more it's really not that bad I mean it would be fine but while I'm here what I can do is so if it's spinning this way this is the wear surface all you can do is you can you want the chamfer to be on this side so what you got to do is turn it around and there you go you got a brand new Surface as the wear surface foreign no chip out of this bearing this goes in like this yeah there's a hole in the back for this pin foreign okay well believe it or not there is an actual orientation for this this hole right here has to line up with this foreign the original had a double lip but it fits pretty much perfect foreign [Music] sits right here okay that makes sense kind of I only had one new 5 16 bolt so forgive me spins nice there was one more o-ring on here there is a little bit of end play there there's no spec for any of this stuff so hopefully that's okay here and this I cut all the paint off this so it mounts nice and flat I'm pretty sure this is a jury rig setup but what are you gonna do there we go yeah these are just way too short [Applause] gonna be interesting just let it naturally ah there we go man I'll never forget when I took this thing off of here this is like the first big heavy thing I ever moved off this machine I was wearing like sports shoes just really really dumb stuff [Music] okay it is very hard to get those nuts started you basically have to pull the whole pump out just to get them fit them in there and then get them on but and they're also fine threaded so there's a lot of cranking on there but they are on [Applause] so I'm putting the stuff on pretty light and I'm going to let it air dry for a while to tack up obviously I don't want to have a ton getting squeezed in and running around through this hydraulic system there's some 3 8 studs but it come in really handy right about now I'm gonna is this backwards let's go oops all right take two like I was saying 3 8 studs would have really helped here all bolts are in now let's make sure this gasket seats properly foreign okay well that should have gone a lot easier but it's on now it's going to be seen like I said I'm not putting these brackets in because the nose that hard nose I got has to mount to here so I don't think these are like structurally necessary I mean there was a lot of bolts holding this thing into the middle so I guess we'll find out but I'm not super concerned okay so before I waste any more time modifying the intake it's uh 41 degrees in here just want to check to see if the intake heater works if it starts up really easily then I should be good all the way down to at least 30 which is like 99 of my use case here take heater on oh that's hot oh there we go lost the heater so how does this work here it has little insulators in there okay this is pretty simple [Applause] this is a good sign so it's flexible which means I can bend it into any shape I want right there we go [Applause] all right so the plan here is you can kind of just bend these right so why not bend them into the shape you want think there's a shaft that goes in there for the governor so I don't want to do it on top because the hood maybe this side [Music] um I'm gonna have to drill a hole in this thing that's kind of the point and overturn I don't know if I have enough room for both of them let's be tight yeah there we go all right this is the hard part actually lined up really well in here oh there you go I drill that hole just big enough for that insulator ring to come through this was an insulator so we should have zero ohms there now are we shorted out six ohms yes we are shorted out [Music] oh yeah we're shorted it's fixed so what was happening there was actually it slipped out and it was right on the end since these aren't uh these can slip out and it was pushing in so this is only one let's give it a shot though see if it works okay guys we are at 40 exactly on the intake but the ambient temperature much colder air 33 degrees right now oh look at that spider this is just with one coil oh I see some smoke coming out of the front that's a good sign probably or it's a bad sign I don't know there is probably grease all over those coils give it a shot foreign that's kind of promising so I'm going to break this back apart and I need to pressure wash it and clean it up and paint it before I install it so you'll see it in another video okay so here's the heater here so uh to protect it from shorting to ground we're gonna have to put a fuse in probably over here uh 200 amp fuse I think this this each one of these heater elements uses 100 amps so I'll just throw a 200 in for now that way I can add the other one later if I need to the second thing is if this relay fails where it's closed I should put a light here that way if it fails closed the light will stay on I could just on the dash or something so I know that this is the heater is still running which I don't want it to run for more than about five or ten seconds or else it's going to start heating up the wiring the only other thing that to worry about is if the heater element Fails Like chunks of metal might go flying into the intake so I'll put like maybe a I'll make some kind of screen up right here to catch anything that might fall in there just to be safe by the way one other mod required if you remove the pony engine is this L bracket which was already on there thankfully but that has to hold up the intake because otherwise it's supposed to bolt down to the pony anyway that's it for this for now for the intake heater but I'm actually impressed with how well this works for how cluge it is together so is this going to work in the depth of winter in Alaska no I I seriously doubt it but I'm building this machine for where I live and out here it's pretty mild it doesn't get too cold that often so I think this will work fine for me nice and quick and easy the date code on these hoses is from 20 years ago January 20 or 2002. and they don't look too super bad but there is some wear spots on them they're pretty I don't know they're a little bit old and dry rotted they're also kind of skimped I think this is supposed to come all the way up to here like on this one but looks like they got a little maybe a little bit lazy when they were crimping these [Music] what did they do to these barbs this was not me that first fitting looked kind of bad it was it's bent I don't know if you can tell there but that's quite horribly bent and then these these are all jacked up yeah this one looks bad too I did not grip on here these were maybe they cut the old hoses off I'm not sure what happened here okay I've gotten uh seven of these pulled out and this is gonna be the hardest one because this one is actually seated all the way up to this this bar right here the other ones were off by about half of an inch but this is the trick I learned it's it's actually not too hard to get these off so what I'm doing is I'm setting the Vise so it's clamping just right on the other end of the fitting and not super tight I just got a vice grip here and this isn't a surface that you need to worry about scratching spray a little penetrating oil on there kind of break it free and then as you turn it you want to tighten the Vise and what's that doing is it's pinching the hose and it's kind of shooting out the the fitting on the other end this hose might break it's kind of worn so I'm going to move the hose up just a quarter inch and once it gets going it pops out pretty quick here and then tighten as a turn [Music] there we go let's slide this up a little bit there we go [Music] all right so you got it off with no damage oh it's bent but I didn't bend that so I got all these off of that same method but you can see someone went nuts with an angle grinder these are all cut pretty badly these three are bent I don't know if you can tell but they're bent this one is the only one that's kind of okay I got the exact same kind of hydraulic hose this is three quarter inch two wire hose yeah 100r2at this is exactly what was on there before this is actually what the manual calls out too so foreign so before these go in it's got these have some Burrs on them foreign there we go got it started oh this isn't that bad I probably need to move this a little bit [Music] you know I've been dreading doing this for two weeks and this is really easy there is a little bit of marring here but I mean it shouldn't matter since it's just the protective covering I'll try to I'll try to maybe tighten it a little bit more so it doesn't slide probably don't want to forget these yeah that's pretty clean so there you go let's do this uh three more times so these are the clips I'm using uh these are 3 8 fine which is what was on there originally and then I'm going to use nylon nuts to hold them on now this may seem janky but keep in mind the system only runs at a thousand PSI which is like a quarter of what modern systems run at foreign it's a good idea to paint this part black actually matches pretty nice okay before I go any further I should probably put fluid in this thing make sure it's not going to leak the manual says to use 10 weight motor oil but if you look up what that equates to an ISO it's it's a ISO 32 hydraulic so got something to use that's pretty much what everyone else uses too and I bought 10 gallons of this stuff because I have to refill all the cylinders and all the pipes oh that's it we're full this is also really hard to film but I did go up here and there was that one other grease fitting on that shaft so I gave it enough and then you can actually kind of see it oozing out down there I mean you can't see it but I can see it foreign the hoses go on here but these are just placeholder bolts there's not a whole lot of leeway so maybe I just need to oh yeah Bend It Like This let me loosen it up on the other side let's do it let's do it come on it's so close oh there we go got some Leverage oh yeah oh I think I got it [Music] there we go geez way much easier might have gotten it though jeez foreign that was difficult got no ring on there right all right got both these hoses on I'm happy about this because they're not touching the previous hoses we're touching and they had kind of worn each other out but uh this is working out pretty nice all right hose is on and I have good news and bad news about this pump so the good news is it did not leak last night it's the next it's the next day the bad news is I was cleaning up the work area over here and I found this o-ring which had fallen down here so and I know right where this goes I'll show you where it goes on the screen um I don't think it was actually ever put on properly obviously someone has been in this pump before but in the manual it has the shims right here up against that Hub and then this is the O-ring right here so the O-ring is supposed to go on after the shims but when I pulled it off the shims were on top of the O-ring which is why the shims were all bent so I'm not sure if I should try to put it back the right way or if the shims are so far bent that it's just going to create leaks and I should just put it back on how it was of course I'm tempted to not put it back on at all just because it's not leaking but you know it's there's a lot of times where it's okay to be lazy but this isn't one of them I'm gonna have to fix it fortunately I haven't run the machine yet so there's no oil in any of the pipes so I could just take off this hard pipe and then cork those and pull the thing off again it shouldn't be too hard to swap that back on but if you have an idea about where if I should put the O-ring on top or behind the shims let me know so unfortunately I was hoping to have this thing running in this video but I think in the next video it's just going to be once I button this up probably mostly off camera um maybe we'll just make the next video writing this thing around and uh seeing what else is wrong with it a couple other quick things earlier on the video I mentioned this Hood wasn't fitting and this is absolutely the wrong Hood so I fortunately did find another hood that will that is the right one and it's hopefully in the mail right now so there was a lot of junk in the pump which means there's probably some junk in the cylinders I mean I clean out the rest of the lines I'm hoping the cylinders aren't leaky but if they are leaky or they drift I'm going to have to fix them I mean having a Dozer with a with a blade that drifts is not probably not a good thing oh it's looking pretty nice up here okay I see a lot in the comments people asking about what's left to do on this project and and what I'm doing after this I'll do a quick tour here I mean a lot of this stuff it's it's this is like over a year ago and people haven't seen every video which is fine but uh so here's kind of what's left on the project here the first off is this nose cone which I just bought and then there's the blade so this this blade is the one that was on it it's a cat blade and it's been modified with this tilt cylinder here so you control the Tilt function with that that little hydraulic control box that we built in this video and these yeah these probably need some new lines but that's about it and over here I have the skid plate so this thing's in pretty good condition I think that's bent right there but nobody's perfect so I just need to clean this up and put it back on and then if you notice these two Mount spots right here I'll show you what those are for in a sec and finally I have the brush cage over here this is probably one of the nicest brush cages I've seen on any of these tractors I've looked at um it's got a nice screen back here to protect me from when the winch cable breaks a little rain gutter there and then the the nice thing though is the the wall thickness on the steel is fairly thick and it just as a comparison that that tractor that I pulled the winch off for a salvage Workshop that was made out of like plumbing pipe but this is proper pipe and the other nice thing is the front of the brush cage mounts to those Mount points on the skid plate not to the side of the radiator which is what a lot of uh a lot of them did and the issue with doing that is when you get kind of larger branches if they fall and hit this they can break the radiator in half of course I do have that nose cone that mounts to the radiator but we're not going to be hitting big trees with that nose cone just you know smaller branches regardless though if a tree falls on this thing or you roll the tractor I mean this brush cage ain't gonna help you it's going to be a closed casket either way and I look at the welding on here on this roof skin this was this was done by not by cat but I think an actual company made this made it well inside there's even a little headrest there I'm sure I'm going to smack my head against that as far as when the Dozer is done well I don't know some people I guess haven't seen this so this is my Hitachi 120. I bought this eight months ago there's a video on it there's actually three videos on it where I got it working and then got it moved over here but this is the next project is getting this thing up and running it's got a lot of problems but uh yeah it's it needs a lot of work so that's what's next all right guys well sorry this video took so long it was a bit more work to get all that hydraulic stuff done than I was planning on all the painting so the goal for next video would be to just hopefully spend a lot of time on the machine and moving it around and and seeing what other issues there are with it before I you know go to hook up the blade and all the rest of that stuff so thanks a lot for watching guys and I'll be back soon

Channel: Pacific Northwest Hillbilly

Views: 214,023

Keywords: bulldozer, caterpillar, d4, old iron, recovery, heavy equipment, tractor, d4-7u, diesel, restore, diy, D315, swap, restoration, dozer, d6, d8, hydraulic, pump, direct start

Id: siKbbnPvjZs

Length: 72min 46sec (4366 seconds)

Published: Wed Dec 07 2022