FIRE! Tool Steel & The Hot Shot 360

oh my oh my god I can't believe it oh my gosh oh my goodness it's finally here oh my stars I can't breathe oh my knees oh my back Oh golly oh dear goodness me gosh almighty can't believe it's inside of this heat-treat oven I can't tell you how long I wanted to add one of these things to the shop if you don't know what this is we'll get into it it suffice it to say it's an easy bake oven for grown men okay right out of the box and I've hit a wall the paperwork clearly states before first use this needs to be thoroughly degaussed but it doesn't say what power level now sure I could take an educated guess but between me and you even after all these years I'm still trying to live down what I did to that poor USS Eldridge oh geez it's Dee gasps talk about egg on your face fast forward I've had this about a month now it's thoroughly degassed haven't had to buy that much Beano since my honeymoon degassing entails running the oven and burning out all the volatiles stuff in the insulation any oils from fabrication pieces of Stan's lunch that may have fallen inside that sort of thing more will a story it's ready to go I haven't used it a ton but did some screwing around to get a feel for the controller before I get too ahead of myself allow me a moment to do a grave disservice to the metallurgical sciences let's quickly talk about the who what's and whys of heat treating this is raw uncooked tool steel and although it's really soft you really wouldn't want to eat it or make parts out of it without cooking it there are some caveats there but generally speaking if you're working with tool steel some part of the process will necessitate heat treating this is also tool steel but it's been shaped into this comedy sized Vblock and has been heat treated not only is this thing hard as a rock it's harder than a rock and that's what this oven does it can turn soft materials into blocks it can turn soft material into hard material and back again you can harden and or anneal if for example you wanted to drill a hole in this v block maybe you want to hang it on your living room wall as is you'd have a tough time getting through it on your drill press but you couldn't kneel it in the oven drill it and then harden it again when you were done so I think I mentioned wanting to add heat-treating capabilities to my garage here for quite a long time especially since getting the surface grinder but never really knew what to get I'd get all worked up over one oven or the other only to change my mind when crazy coincidence Stan of bars II Industrial out in California announced he was building and selling heat-treat ovens it was a sign I tell you well it was a heat treat oven but it was also a sign that and I could support a fellow YouTube machinist at the same time win-win I placed my order end of last year and the rest is history wait a minute it's not history just yet you really shouldn't let me get away with cop-outs like that let's keep going with the video this is a 360 cubic inch 2000 watt oven fully programmable with a Novus controller and can do about 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit or 1100 C but enough of the dry stuff let's have some fun word on the street is this whole Tony is running out of material if that were true how would you explain this this is d3 tool steel and I'd like to use it to make some tooling specifically some vise jaws and match set of parallels to fill in the gaps of the parallels I already own you really can't have enough parallels well machine these he treat them then grind them to final size if you want to play along in your living room you certainly don't need d3 to do so in fact you don't even need tool steel you can make parallels and even vise jaws out of cold-rolled steel for example using a tool steel you can then harden just increases the lifetime and usability of tools like these they won't be a subject to getting Nicks or bumps or wearing out why are we starting off at the mill none of you might be asking why not just harden and grind these well you could I suppose if it weren't for two things first these aren't to size if we went right to the grinder well we'd have an awful lot of work to do there for grinding you really don't want to have to remove more than I don't know ten thousand er this size but generally speaking the less you need to do here the better second the vise jaws will need mounting holes you'd have an absolutely terrible time drilling nice holes on a surface grinder so before we get the heat-treating and long before we get the grinding I want to machine these so they're as flat square and parallel as I can get them off the milling machine then heat-treating grind I'm also gonna leave them a smidge oversized in every dimension maybe five thousandths of an inch on these sized parts heat treating Ken and often does warp parts these end up with a twist or a bow in them from heating I want to have enough fudge factor built in so I can grind that warp out and end up with flat square in parallel parts if I take these right to size now and they I guess Bend a little after grinding out that Bend the parts will be under sized so we build that in ahead of time [Music] [Music] [Music] all right I always hate this part [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] and just like that here the finished parts well the rough machined parts anyway I've got a pair of vise jaws these are for the vertex vise and five sets of parallels I set out to make for these fill in some spaces I'm missing in my parallel sets and they're a bit thicker I got a bonus fifth pair out of the cut-offs from the vise jaws this was the piece that was karate chopped off there I made them a smidge taller wider and thicker I also added threaded holes in each end I don't know why exactly I added one for a vise stop I had a bunch of extra threaded holes just laying around so I threw them in there might be useful for future expansion packs accessories stuff like that so far I'm happy with how these little parallels have turned out I copied the style from an old pair I bought years ago I have two of these they're marked with the owner's name are ledum rest his soul I mean I assume he's dead I like to think he's up there looking down from the great machine shop in the sky which is unfortunate he never did like machining I did paid the bills though I suppose he could still be alive maybe even watching this video hey are Leedom if you've been wondering what your ingrate kids did with all your tools after they sold the house and stuck in that retirement home well I don't know but I said of your parallels ended up on eBay before we ki treat these sorry just one minute before we heat treat these let's head over to the surface plate and spot check what the mill did just for kicks if I kept you waiting an extra week for this video I apologize there's a lot of clutter on that plate I need to clean off the surface plate is probably the most important piece of equipment in your shop that's why I always keep it clean and clutter-free if I did my part right off the mill these things should be within a thousandth or two that's a tenth indicator now the term tenths is often a source of confusion when an imperial machinist says tenths it means tenths of a thousandth of an inch not a tenth of an inch each division on that indicator face is 110 thousandths of an inch says it right there ten of them would be one thousandth of an inch for reference a human hair is about three to five thousands and the six-inch machinist ruler is about six inches I'm zeroed out in the upper left-hand corner I'm just gonna sweep across the part and see what I ended up with a little bit more than a thousand about a foul let's see how we compare to the other one this is tooth out I drop about a half a thought and a few tenths top to bottom so this part is more parallel this parts about 2,000 I think that's typical coming off the mill for me anyway these sized parts I probably got a little sloppy with this one some dirt or a chip under the part maybe I didn't tap it down as well as I should have now here we're only checking parallelism with the surface plate the parts are actually seven or eight thou are German final size again there's some accommodation there for grinding I won't bore you checking these other parts I probably will off-camera but let's get the heat treating I may have just wasted 20 precious minutes of my life building admittedly the cutest miniature discount clothes rack I've ever seen was this necessary probably not but for some reason I just want all of the surfaces free not touching anything and more importantly a way of pulling these out that doesn't result in me dropping one in my shoe when there are a million degrees though a part of me is worried that these wires will snap and that's it we can now transfer these into the center of a 1550 degree oven for 130 to 140 minutes or until they look like this pardon me a moment I've jumped back in time about an hour or so the fan has kicked on I'll try to talk over it and my parts are getting pretty close to soak temperature that's the current temperature in red and the target temperature in green this oven uses a Novus n for a TD not sure if they all do but I wanted and ordered one with a programmable controller I won't get into the details as you can read about it online but this has three user modes the first is just basic oven control set a temperature and it'll hold it until you turn it off the second which is what I'm using now is a ramp or rate mode I told the oven to climb to 1750 degrees in 90 minutes then hold that for another thirty at which point it'll turn itself off if you don't use the rate mode this oven can do zero to 2,000 in like two minutes which is way too fast for the bun I currently have in there third mode is fully programmable meaning you can do complicated recipes ramp to some temperature hold it there ramp some more hold it drop the temp turn on the broiler you name it but it's more than I need for these simple parts if you're wondering at these temperatures yes the oven gets a little bit toasty I mean keep in mind there's like a supernova happening on the inside but it's all stainless steel construction and there's a heck of a lot of insulation in there I'm still getting an outside temperature of around 200 degrees it's about a hundred C being shiny the oven isn't a great infrared target I've placed a sheet of paper on the top now my hands are pretty calloused so I don't know if I'm a good judge but I could probably touch it for four or five seconds before my hand would stick which I don't recommend just to see it the obvious you want to be careful around this thing at least at this temperature these are the finished hardened and tempered parts one set even miraculously came out of the oven already grounds to final size and flatness let's try to ignore that for now and talk about what happened very first important step as always bump into my tripod before the camera shake stops I want to get this piece of scrap out of the oven and into the oil the only point of this part is to knock some of the edge off the room temperature oil speaking of oil I didn't have any fancy heat treat stuff she's in a mix of old and new engine and gear oils that I had laying around this was the scariest part for me part of me was expecting that can to just explode I do have a fire extinguisher ready in within reach I'm also wearing all of my protective gear face mask respirator heavy gloves leather apron open-toed sandals then I just did the same with all the other set of parts pulled them from the oven quench them in the oil what I didn't show you is the hour I spent at the wire wheel trying to get some of this nasty scale off the big boys would sandblast this off which I don't really feel like doing that or stripping chemically I think though if we're talking serious business these would have been heat treated in a vacuum furnace no atmosphere no scale next time I use the oven I'll try holding my breath for a couple of hours I bet that would help a lot of the big stuff came off but you can see how much havoc the air did to these parts at close to 2,000 degrees after quench and if all went right these parts would have been maximum hardness somewhere around 63 64 65 Rockwell which I guess is probably fine for parallels but I wanted to bring that back a bit so i tempered them I put them back in the oven and soaked them for a couple of hours at 450 degrees if all went well according to the recipe I used these parts should now be a little shy of 60 57 58 somewhere in there to know for sure to get an exact number I would need a hardness tester which I don't have unlike some of my high society fancy-pants colleagues till now I've been making do with a good old-fashioned bite test if I could leave bite marks I'd know I was at least at a Rockwell 50 but before I lose one of my last two teeth I invested in a set of these for a legit hardness tester you'd have to drop about a grand just to get through the door these cost me less than a hundred bucks 60 70 somewhere in there this is set of hardness tester files for cheapskates 40 to 65 Rockwell see each file is harder than the last you try them all until you find the one that won't cut your part then you've got yourself a ballpark answer sort of like holding up paint swatches to your wall to try to get a color match this is a piece of the d3 raw stock I made my parts from and this is the 40 Rockwell file you probably can't feel that but it's biting that's biting even more so this thing is 4 D or below that's as much as the files can tell us this of course is one of the heat treated and tempered parallels let's try it on this re machined surface they're 16 here's 55 again so that definitely skates across the surface these parts are between 55 and 60 mission accomplished my mag Chuck brings all the boys to the yard and they're like I could teach you but I have to it's ironic how the surface grinder is one of dirtiest machines in the shop but cleanliness is so fundamental to its operation trying to get one to two tenths flatness out of this thing [Music] I know what you're thinking hey old Tony those look pretty good but how do they taste shoot you straight here not that good well let's see how they work oh there's a slight mismatch at the top and a fair bit on the sides that's got to be at least six and a half thousand the sides probably closer to twenty two thousand inconvenience you know when I was taking these measurements on the original jaws did you strike me as odd that the bores were so oversized I made that fit much closer but now I realize why they did that take some of the heat off manufacturing the rest of the chuck they could snug these up tap the jaws around until they're aligned and just tighten them down now at the end of the world don't I think I'll just grind them in sit you let's see if the parallels fit all kidding aside I'm sure there's some of you out there wondering how these parts turned out again these parts aren't very big but I managed to get them down within two three tenths this would be a fairytale ending but truth of the matter is I had to do quite a bit of fighting on the surface grinder to even get this if you look close the readings aren't very linear or as linear as they should be but all things considered they turned out pretty good you probably won't have seen it in the final edit but I really had to baby these parts most of them came back to the surface grinder at least twice I was just getting inconsistent results frankly it was a little frustrating in fact I didn't see all I was grinding through I still have two sets of parallels need to be ground I might have to break the surface grinder down again and give it a little TLC if nothing else I think the mag chuck needs a resurfacing maybe that's what you get for using these things as tool and cutter grinder 's and throwing accessories on here willy nilly I had planned on getting into the practical aspects of heat treating not so much what technically happens in the oven but why you would want to heat treat what happens to the mechanical properties where it doesn't pay to heat treat that sort of stuff but I might save that for another time oh and although I'm really excited to finally add real heat treating capabilities to the garage above and beyond the old torch and dunk routine I've even used this to do a small cast-iron repair it allowed me to do precise preheating and exquisitely controlled cooldowns I've never been able to do that before with cast iron the size seems right for what I might throw at it and customer support so far has been spectacular I mean just check this out you know I like talking to you and everything but you can't keep calling me like this Stan Stan you're on camera oh okay I've always been curious what got you into ovens I see what you did but is it normal for the extension cord to be this hot I think I can smell it I told you a hundred times no extension cords building your own product must be rewarding but I bet it's loud how's your hearing these days website yeah I got a website it's bar Z industrial comm if they go to the products page I've got all three ovens that I currently offer buy up PDFs with prices and specifications right there on the website didn't go check it out I'm sorry I'm sorry that's all the time I have for this gag say goodbye Stan goodbye Stan

Channel: This Old Tony

Views: 776,886

Rating: 4.9648643 out of 5

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Id: ST3yf-H51Hg

Length: 22min 47sec (1367 seconds)

Published: Wed Mar 18 2020