Final assembly on our Buick Straight 8! | Redline Update #66

hey this is david with hagerty we're back on our buick straight eight with a redline rebuild update today we have as you can see basically a full assembled engine right up to the valve cover however at this point i have no ignition system i have no fuel system i need an alternator and a couple motor mounts so and a fan of course to top everything off so that's our final push on this motor is to get all those items on i'm going to start with dropping the distributor in and getting the fuel pump and then move along after that and after that it's nothing but the beauty shot so here we go [Music] so [Music] so like we've talked about on this engine a lot of the bolts the threads are actually through holes so that means they go into the crank case typically speaking your engine mounts are not those type of bolts they're usually on a boss and they're a dead hole uh in the case here the top two are that way but the bottom two are go right into the crank case in fact right now i can see through this hole and this hole and see the wall on the other side so these two on both sides will need to be sealed up before i put them put them put them down [Music] so [Music] so as i go through and i route plug wires in this particular case the way they have to come down through the uh cover hole everything's got a funnel to the center so i can't do my kind of normal where you run them down and nice and clean and such they tend to bundle a little bit here but they'll be a nice looking bundle um otherwise just put a nice loop in them here so i like to you know put a nice comfortable bend marked to the bottom of the cap you know somewhere about there looks about right and if you have to you know put a mark use a marker and mark them or just grab your side cutters lop them off on that end and i have found these things to be phenomenal um they're both a stripper a crimper um they work really well these will pay for themselves very quickly and quite honestly they'll pay for themselves on the first set of custom wires so don't don't uh i'll say be slow to buy these but you go through they're ratcheting as you can hear it cuts them you just pull this off boom that's the end of that and you have your center core take one of your terminals and ideally you put this on first but every time that i forget and i put it on this way it goes on maybe not as easy they're all can be a little difficult anyway see still goes on um take and roll this back or down whichever way doesn't really matter take the u to the back side the crimper has a certain direction that it goes like this pinch are tight that's good i typically also come back and just especially on this thin 70 mil wires or 7 mil um i just come and give them a little bit more so they bite in better on an eight millimeter um plug wire it'll it'll be right tight this is number five i like to put it into the cap first and then just work your boot back down and then of course down as far as it goes nice and snug there's that plain and simple i usually start as well with the longest wires first or you can use the shortest wires whichever you're most comfortable with depends on how you want to look at things and what your situation is so but that's basically just go right on down the line in our case i started at number one and just worked my way down but i sorted out my wires as well first of all and then something else that uh maybe not everybody under knows but on your plug wires in the if you can pull this back and the inside of this you can bend these so you'll see here instead these are considered a straight boot but you can bend them over just be careful with where you bend them there's a spot that can and say a spot that can't um on this particular one all i'm doing is i'm using the where the where the overlap or where it comes together at my pinch point i know if i bend it if i put this up at 12 o'clock i can bend this down to six based on how the wire itself is that is designed one of the other things that i i am not afraid to do is once i have my firing order and i know where i want number one to be at on the cap use some sort of contrasting color put it on the cap it's nothing to be embarrassed about write it down put a one for instance and then i wrote the firing order all the way around and that way as i go through and put stuff on it's just quick and easy to see it you can also come back if you need and you can write right on the boot as far as which ones uh which or likewise up here so you know you have that connection right because invariably when you go through to go to start this up and you do stuff real quick and you miss something uh the first thing you're gonna do is check your firing order and it will make it a whole lot easier because well we've been there [Music] most of the stuff is all on over there so that's good we're making huge progress today so now over on this side before i get to the exhaust and the intake manifolds i need to throw on this crankcase breather get the motor mod over on this side and then put the generator in position fan belt on pulley and a belt and lastly we're going to put that oil filter up top so big progress [Music] all right so with this external oil filter normally a canister oil filter or a cartridge oil filter would be attached to a provision in the block so like a external casting that would screw onto or or a housing that would contain it in the 50s they hadn't quite decided they needed that so this was an after market more or less um a deal where you put a cartridge filter here and um and then the oil line is run you know up from down here pressurized here comes up into the canister and then into the head um and it filters a portion of it it doesn't filter all of it um that by no means could you put out every ounce of oil that a 3 16 line can supply but that is what they did as far as going through the filter and that filter will look like this this would be considered a cartridge a canister or a spin-on would be fully encapsulated and have a thread here so what i'm doing right now is fabricating up some tubing to come into the top i have this one done already and it's gonna come down gonna tuck against the block ideally come down around and then into here but of course you see that it has to make a tight bend here has to make somewhat of a bend here pass through all this and basically make a 180 coming into the into the uh into the block now doing that will require a tubing bender bender or a mandrel bender of i get two styles here one with a little tighter bend and a lot more use and then this brand new one or virtually brand new that has a little slower radius because the last thing you want to do is try to hand bend it and you'll see i can help it i can do decently by holding it with my fingers but normally what happens is you do this because you're bending it and you pinch it if you pinch off the oil flow well i shouldn't have to tell you what happens it won't work very well so you do not want to do this no different if you were using this tubing for brake line or oil line or transmission line so there we have it and then of course the key is when you flare it make sure the nuts on there [Music] do [Music] so [Music] get that some pretty nice cerakote here west michigan cerakote beautiful we are putting on the intake manifold and our custom exhaust header now because of what we were asked to do on this engine basically it needs to be a hot rod engine but period correct basically uh so that is where we're at so one of the things we picked up was this custom edmonds intake manifold from the day and uh we've polished it we've had to modify it we've done some other stuff to it to make it work uh mainly relative to the carburation that we're going to use and then of course with the exhaust manifolds that are going on it as well so we have these custom headers that were built and go around everything hopefully today so they'll sit in like this goes around the um engine mount and then of course we had a couple little modifications to them even after being custom-made there was still a couple interference issues relative to the intake manifold but i think we have that i think we're over that hurdle and so far without stretching a groin muscle now the next fun part is going to be putting in all the studs that hold this in here which is easy again a couple of these go into the bolt holes so we're going to put teflon on every one of them just to avoid any issues down the road and it's going to be quite the juggling function of holding the intake manifold up here and the exhaust manifolds up here all at the same time because they all clamp on together as one unit um one unit but 18 separate pieces along with you know gaskets washers you name it so hopefully all my thumbs are working today and everything else and a runaway nut so there we go that's what this is going to be all [Music] about [Music] [Music] so well here it is with all its glory it's bolted on and i'll tell you what it was about as fun as getting chased by a wild boar here we have the next task so i'm going to tell you what i've been itching for six months to put these carburetors on these were supplied to us by sean murph reinduction and uh sean have been a fantastic guy to work with and these things are gorgeous and the second reason that these are wonderful to put on is that means i'm that much closer to being done with this thing but given the problems and let me grab the old carburetor here so here's been our dilemma or one of the hurdles that we had to cross with this uh buick so this would be the original carburetor one of two original carburetors that went on this intake manifold this is what's referred to as a holley 3 bolt holley no longer makes this edelbrock no longer makes it for themselves and then uh there's also a stromberg version the problem with both of them is there is no choke mechanisms that are electric uh relative to that the strombergs have chokes but they are not electric the request was that we had an electric choke option um to make this you know real easy and smooth to drive startup and drive so with that in a two barrel fashion you use the rochester two jets but as you can see they are a four bolt opposed to three bolt now you would have hoped that we could have gotten lucky that at least two of these would have lined up with those but that's not the case they're slightly off and there are no adapters readily available out there to just say call mr gasket and order one in and slap it on so what i did is i went through um and took the gaskets literally i took the gaskets that i'm going to be using this is the base off the uh or rochester and this is the base on the intake manifold and basically i needed to get from here to here so as you can see nothing lines up not the holes not a single thing so what i did is i took and drew these up in a cad program and then extruded them and worked out these pieces that allow me to bolt this adapter down to the intake manifold with these two bolts first and then this goes on over the top of it one goes here and then this goes all the way down the intake manifold that sandwiches the bottom one in and then holds the top in now i have a four bolt spacing that will bolt to the bottom of the rochester carburetor okay now so these are printed parts i use this to prove out my design concept now if i was at the time was been able to make these and probably an abs plastic i think is uh would be compatible relative to uh the fuel flow going through there and the temperature i could have stopped right there and just used these as far as a 3d printed part but instead i took them and had them made into aluminum so now i have an aluminum chunk put it that way so i have an aluminum piece that will now in turn make the transition between the two and then again i mentioned that the the bores you know this bore size on the carburetor and the bore size on the intake manifold are not the same and the spread is not the same so at that point i just bolted them together and then just used a hand dremel and and cleaned out and matched them fairly well so now my transition for airflow and fuel flow from the carburetor into the intake manifold is as streamlined as i can get now back to assembly i'm going to use a base gasket here boop like so we'll put uh this is the front one and this goes in here like that now instead of using a gasket in between what i'm contemplating instead of putting a gasket here i think i might use some red sealer which is for metal and metal surfaces a gasket maker and i can use that here because one of the things i'm thinking about is will the gasket give me a problem when i bolt down here tight and have a leak on the outside quite honestly i shouldn't because of the thickness of the material i used it's not like i went thin it's uh it's a half inch material so what i could probably do also is just double up put gasket sealer on the gasket these will mate together real nice and tight and then of course the gasket up top before the carburetor so that's the plan and uh let's see how it works out [Music] [Applause] [Music] we got our smi carburetors installed in our reproduction edmunds custom air cleaners on to go with that custom intake manifold and i'm i'm happy with it looks great at this point obviously there's a couple things wrap up before we can get it running specifically it needs to be on the easy run test stand and then water lines and fuel lines and so on and so forth and i'll do that next time but until then you know what to do get out your shop don't feel guilty about not getting out there but get out there enjoy yourself because there's a great day waiting for you when you're done see ya [Music] so [Music] you

Channel: Hagerty

Views: 177,551

Keywords: Hagerty, Classic Car, Classic Cars, Hagerty Drivers Club

Id: Us_1udiMkJc

Length: 23min 0sec (1380 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 30 2020