Final Assembly of the Front Axles for the New Borax Wagons | More Blacksmithing

our previous video on beginning to assemble the Borah wagon front axles brought us this far along now to continue the building of the front axle we actually have to digress just a little bit I'm going to disassemble our axle by taking the axle hands axle hounds back out these were all previously fitted to make sure they were in their correct position and now we're going to put them together and this will be a permanent assembly so we're going to take the hounds out we're going to take the axle cap off the axle and what we need to do is actually bed this axle cap permanently onto the axle so what I'm doing is applying some tight bond three it's a permanent wood glue it's a waterproof glue it doesn't necessarily bond well with the steel it does well with the wood but what it does is it gives it a hundred percent contact the axle cap with the axle itself so we reuse the kingpin to make sure we are lined up in the proper position we're going to put the bottom plate of the fifth wheel on and then take pipe clamps and actually start to apply pressure or the axle cap down to the axle we want enough glue on there that we actually start to squeeze the glue out if you look real close you start to see it dripping out so I'm going to wipe that off but this is to give us a hundred percent contact with the wood to the axle we're going to put clips on and this is the diagram of how we're going to build the clips we're going to take some quarter inch flat plate and we're going to cut off the top what will be the top curved part of the axle clips we have two different sizes one is eight inch and one is ten inch and we've got our our circles cut off so I'm going to put these through a shear and take off the X corners it just saves little time and grinding is handing this is a hand-operated shears just like a great big scissor works well on steel up to about 3/8 of an inch thick we're going to just take off the corners this just has a long lever on it and just big pair of scissors once we get the corners off we're going to take it to the sander where we have a joconi and belt and you're gonna round off the corners down to our and Mark we put on the fit comfy so we have a round in and when these are all rounded off we'll take a 7/8 round rod that we have threaded and we'll weld these on to the ends of these plates and then bend them around to where they fit the contour of the accent now underneath the axle clip and underneath the axle there's a steel bar that the clip goes through and actual foot mark these are three quarter inch stick two inch wide and we have the corners beveled off and we'll drill a hole in them and this will look what the clip will actually go through and fasten to the axle itself so we're going to put the first two clips on get the right one in the right position here and this will aid in replacing the pipe clamps one goes on either side of the fifth wheel I'm going to bring tap those down in position they're a nice tight fit now we'll take our clip bar and put it on underneath put our nuts on and to begin to cinch it down even tighter than the pipe clamps will will do and we'll notice when we start to increase the pressure tighten up the axle cap to the axle that more glue will start to kind of squeeze out and we'll take and just wipe that off and go ahead and allow that to dry and set up so we can remove our pipe clamps and get ready for next step what we're going to do is get our axle hounds ready and since the next set of Clips goes through the axle hounds we're gonna pre-drill the holes that the 7/8 rod will go through these axle hounds are four inches thick so we'll again go from both sides meet in the middle and we'll get both of these done and you see here they're ready to go so we'll start to assemble the first one and just like we did in the first video of the beginning to assemble the axles we'll put our pipe clamps on and we'll begin to pull that in position now it's already pre fitted so we're just going to pull it up to where our holes are in the right position which we have marked here we want to have the correct excuse me the correct spacing both front and back and we're gonna do this to both sides I'll put the other axle hound in also bring it up with the set of clamps make sure we have our holes in the proper position now we can go ahead and begin to put on our second set of axial clips these have been pre bent pre fitted so they're gonna slide right through the axle hound tap it down into position and these clips are actually what fastens permanently to axle cap to the axle itself put in our kingpin make sure it's all lined up and we'll put the other half of the fifth wheel plate so the underneath these set of axle clips takes a long bar this creates a bridge work for strength underneath the axle and also also acts as the axle clip for the second set of or the axle bar the clip bars for the second set of axle clips so we're gonna drill a 7/8 hole for these axle clips and then because they come under the axle they're hacks they have to be bent up to where they fit from underneath the axle up to and fastened to the bottom of the axle pound so we have to take and put the the right Bend and these actually took a little while because there you get the two bends the one band at the axle and the other band up at the axle hound and it took a little fitting but here I have a pattern of light steel that I pre bent so I knew kind of what my angle needed to be and here we have the angle and the clip bar part of the bridge that will go underneath the axle so the the forward part of this bridge iron has to come up to the tip of the axle hounds so I've lined out where the holes need to be and we're gonna pre-drill that with a quarter inch drill it'll help us to line up the holes when we put the bridge work underneath now here you can see the bridge irons are shaped and ready to go on they're gonna clip up underneath the axle clip put our nuts on this is where there's one that goes forward one that goes back we're putting on the back one here clamp it into place tighten down the nuts and this is the final assembly of the axle hounds into the axle cap onto the axle and this bridgework adds a significant amount of strength in the front axle when to the axle hounds so this is what we look like what our bridge work on to both axles the same now the second set of honors the next set Irons is going to be the stabilizer bars this is what they look like when they're finished and this is the process we took to do it we started out putting our flat plates where they needed to be front and back the center part of this stabilizer bar is inch and a quarter square stock solid steel so we're gonna take it to the forge and begin to put a 90-degree Bend on the pieces where they're going to come down to the flat irons that we saw just previously this is like I said inch and a quarter or solid square stock and this is a process that involves more than just bending it because of the size of the iron it needs to be upset which means it needs to be compressed back on itself so that it has a tight and a square for the corner so what I'm doing is moving the iron back into the corner of the steel we'll put a platter on it and take out some of our hammer marks that we've been working on it take off all the loose scale you see the tight square corner that we have here finish I want to check make sure that we're square do some final adjusting x' here we have the ends where they come down to the flat bar on our stabilizers and we're gonna do this on all four corners and of course for both wagons so we end up having eight of these and you can see they're bent here and this is how the corner looks as its built into the stabilizer bar and this is a position that they'll be bolted into you on the top of the fifth wheel plate we'll take that off and here the the bolster will actually go to that top fifth wheel plate and we're gonna scribe it on to the iron it has a little bevel that comes down and fits up to the iron so we're going to bevel that off we don't have any sharp corners bevel down to the iron and then it has to get drilled to accept the bolts that go through the fifth wheel plate up through the bolster and then there's a top plate that it will be fastened to also these are all 1/2 inch bolts so we're gonna drill again starting from one direction and turn around go back from the other direction then meet in the middle so the ends get a bolt drill these by hand and the top part of this bolster has been routed out to accept the standards and you saw these inter previous video how we made those so these are gonna fit down to where the top of the standard is flush one for each side and this is where it will keep the wagon box in place from side to side and there is a top plate that goes on top that will carry the weight and take the wear of the box itself so we're gonna make sure our bolts fit we're gonna clean up our holes now the bolts through the center there's four bolts through the center that will all receive nuts but they're the two out on the end will be actually riveted into place the Box frame will sit in this position so and that would be in the way in the center of this bolster to help strengthen the whole of the kingpin we have each has a a pair of iron on it and because these accept a carriage bolt one side of the iron has to have a square hole so we'll gonna take a square drift punch and you're gonna square up the hole so that the square head underneath the head of the carriage bolt has a place to set into this iron plate so this is just the process of taking a round hole make it Indian to a square hole so it can accept the carriage bolt head and these are the irons as they're finished and we'll go ahead and put those on and this will strengthen the kingpin on the front bolster and this is what it looks like when it's assembled next we're gonna put on the rear stabilizer bar the rear stabilizer bar is what keeps the axle from rotating forward when the weight of the tongue is placed upon it the back axle reach will come above this bar and it will keep the front axle from pivoting kind of a nose dive forward so these have their own special axle clips they are bolted into place and this stabilizer is how it looks here now next we need a set of clips that goes on the outside of the axle cap and these have a hook to them these clips are made out of 3/4 inch thick by two inches deal and the ends have to be drawn down to a 7/8 rod they aren't welded on but they're actually forged out of this 3/4 bucking steel the process here was to draw it down in the trip hammer bringing it down to eventually we have a 7/8 rod and this is about that but you took here just take multiple heats going back and forth from the forge to the trip hammer camera tends to focus on the bright of the steel and gets darker into that you can see drawing it out into the link here getting it into a rough kind of a rough in round position this isn't true round next we'll put it into a folder that will actually make it round this is a top and bottom plate with a 7/8 hole formed through the center of it and will actually make this - a true round 70 X draw this takes a couple times to do it'll actually go back to the forge we eat up again and use it final in 7/8 and here you'll see the the fourth of the ends of the four clips that we'll need well each of these clips have a hook on them for the state chains which is a limiting chain for the purpose of restraining the Doubletree so it doesn't swing too far so this we also drew out of a one-inch square stock drew a two round you see the bottom of it is square and this is kind of a mortise cannon into the flat stock and we are Forge welding it through into this three quarter by two axial clip this takes several heats again to finish this Forge weld so it's kind of a combination riveting but in the process of riveting we're also welding it into place now once it's welded into place we'll take the end of that bar and will actually form our hook for the station [Music] get here close we're gonna check our size see if we are close to it go back in take another heat to our final adjusting using a little lighter hammer here we're taking out our hammer marks take it off the scaling this is kind of a finished cleanup work of our hook once the hooks are done we went ahead and formed the actual clip so that they will fit the axle and this is what they ended up looking like finished now one of these clips goes on the outer end of each axle cap this is a real heavy clip and it takes a lot of stress on it that's why it's a three quarter inch stick but there's one that goes on each side in the center where the reach is there's also a set of iron's has a pull plate another axle clip and another plate that strengthens the kingpin this is put into place and again the plate put on the bottom and the clip on the top and you can see here the center iron assembly and this pull plate is part of how these wagons are pulled when the mules are itch to them now the clip bar to these outside axle clips with the station hooks is also part of the Queen bolt brace the Queen bolt is the bolt that goes through the tip of the axle hounds that the axle door that the tongue itself will pull by so these rods will support that Queen bolt also function as the clip bar for these outside axial clips with the hooks when these are in place the final iron is a clevis that goes on each side of the axle hounds which actually will get pulled on by the mules so this is the finished ironing cyl we put some oil on it and this is what it looks like when it has been finished thank you for your interest and thank you for watching you

Channel: EngelsCoachShop

Views: 197,668

Rating: 4.9581022 out of 5

Keywords: Borax wagons, wheelwright, wagon building, Engels Coach Shop, 20 mule team borax, forging, blacksmithing

Id: YF9FlVxghrQ

Length: 24min 9sec (1449 seconds)

Published: Tue Aug 30 2016