Field Strip & Clean the Sig Sauer P365 XL (FOR BEGINNERS)

this video is on how to field strip and clean the p365xl i know everyone has their own way of doing things including myself but i'm not going to do it my way i'm going to do this according to six hours recommendations in the owner's manual to get started you'll need a few things and you can get all these items from your local gun shop or from a sporting goods store but i think it's cheaper to get it from amazon i'll put links to everything in the comments below you'll need clp i've tried all the major brands and they all work but lately i've been using lucas brand you'll need cotton swabs a microfiber rag a nylon brush preferably one that's specific for gun cleaning a brass or nylon nine millimeter size board brush a cleaning rod a brass or nylon cleaning jack you can also use a patch holder but i do prefer the jag cleaning patches and the owner's manual doesn't mention anything about a bore snake but i highly recommend using one i'll show you why as i'm cleaning always start out with an empty weapon but of course i'm going to check anyway before i get started to do that press the magazine catch button and drop the magazine work the slide a few times if you accidentally left around in the chamber it'll eject at this point now pull the slide all the way back and hold the slide back by pressing the slide catch lever upward there's no magazine there's nothing in the chamber i've already racked the slide a few times so we are 100 clear rotate the take down lever downward until it stops now disengage the slide stop lever and release the slide continue pulling the slide all the way off press the recoil spring guide from chamber in to muzzle in and pull it out now grab onto the barrel lug and pull the barrel out now this is as far as you need to go for a basic field strip and clean we are not doing a complete disassembly here now attach the board brush to the cleaning rod and we're only going to push this brush to the bore one direction from chambering to muslin the reason is it doesn't make any sense at all to push the dirt out and pull it right back in kind of like when you're sweeping the floor you don't just sweep back and forth you'll just spread the dust everywhere you sweep one direction into the dustpan or out the door or whatever but point is you're going in one direction chamber in to muzzleland so all you do is push the brush through when it comes out the muslin remove the brush pull the cleaning rod out reinstall the brush onto the cleaning rod and start the process over again there's no magic number on how many times you push the board brush through i just do it a few times and then move on now i'm just going to loosen up the dirt with this nylon brush so add clp to the brush and scrub all visible surfaces pay particular attention to the feed ramp now i'm going to wipe it clean with this microfiber rag but before i reassemble i'm going to be sure to leave a light coat of cop all over it the feed ramp is usually the hardest part to clean on the barrel i just use my fingernail and the rag to really dig into it but it should look just about like that when you're done so just like the bore brush i only pushed cleaning patches through one direction from chamber into muzzling and i also use a jag for this part but you can use the patch holder if you prefer i just get a better clean using the jag so add clp to the cleaning patch put it over the jag and push it through you'll see that the first patch comes out really dirty just keep pushing clean patches through until they start to come out clean okay they're almost coming out totally clean so i'm going to push one more through and i should be good so make sure that you're using the correct size bore snake it should say 38 like this one 357 380 or nine millimeter so drop the weighted in from chamber into muslin grab it from the other side and pull it through this one's barely been fired so i'm just going to pull this boar snake through a couple of times and this is exactly why i use a bore snake i'm just going to wipe it off real quick and try to show you the inside of the board the best i can on camera if you can get a good look inside it's like black glass i mean there's not even a speck of lint no dust nothing in there it's actually better than it came from the factory this is why i use a bore snake now i'm going to clean the recoil spring guide i'm just going to say recoil spring for short add clp to the nylon brush and scrub in between the coils and on both ends once you're done with that wipe it off and you're done with this part you don't need to disassemble the magazine every time you clean it but if you do want to disassemble it i don't think you need a video to do it it's really easy all you do is press that insert stud with a small screwdriver or punch and slide the floor plate off once you disassemble the mag it'll look like this just wipe everything down with clp then wipe it off again and reassemble the same way you took it apart but this magazine is still new it's never been dropped in the dirt mud sand or anything like that so i'm just going to add clp to my nylon brush and scrub the outside without getting clp inside it you don't want to leak clp down into witness holes or inside the follower or anything like that you want the inside of the magazine to remain dry so basically wipe it down with clp then wipe the cop completely off this magazine needs to be dry clean but dry now let's clean the slide i'm going to add clp to the clean patch put it over the brush and i'm going to start with cleaning the inside of the rails by the way this doesn't need to be done in any particular order this is just the way i'm doing it today you can start with the outside of the slide you can start with the inside you can do the rails first or whatever as long as you get it clean i use a small end of the nylon brush to get inside the rails if you really need to you can use a pick or something else like maybe taking the patch holder and wrapping a clean patch around it you can also use that to get inside the rails that seems to work really well when you need to do it that way so after i've loosened up all the loose fouling and whatnot with the nylon brush and clp i'll go through with a q-tip for more fine detail clean within the rails and also the harder to reach spaces now i'm going to scrub the outside surface of this slide it's not difficult but i will say the hardest part to clean on the slide is going to be the breach face area right there and behind the extractor just be sure not to leak any clp down into that channel that the firing pin comes out of and you also want to avoid leaking cop down into the striker channel and here's a close-up of the extractor i used the small end of the nylon brush to clean behind it now i'm going to use the microfiber rag to wipe off all the loose fouling then i'll apply clp to a cotton swab and go through in fine detail the first few cotton swabs will come out dirty after you run them through the rails just keep running clean cotton swabs through them with clp until they start to come out clean but you don't want to leave these rails totally dry after you're done cleaning this slide in fine detail with a cotton swab leave a medium coat of cop inside the rails and put a light coat of clp on anything else that shows metal and metal wear now that i'm satisfied with the fine detail portion of the slide i'm just going to wipe off any excess clp and move on to the next part cleaning the frame is similar to cleaning the slide you're going to add clp to a nylon brush and scrub all surfaces inside and out i'm going to pay particular attention to anything that shows metal on metal wear i'm going to loosen up all the carbon and falling with a nylon brush then i'll wipe it clean with a rag then i'll apply clp to a clean swab and go through and find detail i'm going to leave a medium coat of cop on the rails and anything that shows metal on metal wear and don't worry about the grip being slippery or anything like that because you use clp to clean it i clean it with a brush and then i wipe it totally clean with a rag i found that the best way to get off the excess sealed pea from the grip stippling is just wrap a clean microfiber rag around it and squeeze i like to use the needle applicator to apply cop to the rails then i use a clean cotton swab to spread it out evenly and once again i'm using what i would call a medium coat of clp just nothing that's actually going to run off of the rails and onto the frame if it's starting to run then that's too much so now that i've applied all the clp right where i want it to all the parts and i've removed all the excess clp it's time to reassemble take the barrel and reinsert it back into the slide now install the recoil spring and this end right here goes towards the muzzle of course that end goes towards chamber it goes into the slide just like this now line up the rail channels on the slide with the rails on the frame and pull it back i'm going to push up the slide catch lever to hold the slide back now turn the take down lever back to its original position disengage the slide catch lever by pushing it downward and let the slide go home now i'm going to do a function check work the slide pull the trigger but don't release it pull the slide back release the trigger you should hear it reset pull it again and you should hear a click if it does you're good i also like to make sure it's going to lock back on an empty magazine so just insert the magazine and pull the slide back if the slide stays back everything's good i made this video for total beginners so i hope you found it helpful if you did and you'd like to show support you can do so at patreon.com skullcrush thanks for watching

Channel: Skull Crush Inc.

Views: 37,488

Rating: 4.9648814 out of 5

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Id: 9QUR1YGweh0

Length: 10min 32sec (632 seconds)

Published: Wed Jan 06 2021