Fastest way to make Big SwimBaits & Lures | lure making made easy.

i love big bait fishing but unless you start to make your own it gets very expensive very quickly so i started making them start making my own master molds and then eventually my own replicas the difference between myself and anybody else who's doing these baits on youtube is that i have processes that are much faster carving wood for days using legos making two-piece master molds taking forever to airbrush your baits i don't have time for that stuff i want to get out there and fish and so i've streamlined my process and i want to share it with everybody and how you can make your own baits with standard tools and some spray paint and some epoxy from the store you can just crank them out and if you make them and you lose them you're spending literally pennies on the dollar for whatever you'd have to keep buying and then you possible chance that you could just make it better than everybody else that is the much more rewarding thing being able to make a bait that accomplishes a task that the mainstream simply won't make making a bait that outperforms everything else in the season but only you have your hands on it so nobody else can get it and burn out your spot or your techniques because you made it and you know how to fish it it is the ultimate system i want to show you from start to finish my process and how easy and how fast we can bypass a lot of the other processes the mainstream youtubers show you respect to all of them they make fantastic baits they don't make them as fast as this you don't need any fancy tools or wood cutting saws or any of that stuff all you need to do is make hobby lobby your friend and you can literally do all this with pretty much no problem in this video we're going to make a nine inch shad glide bait we're going to show you from start to finish how we did the master mold to casting it to painting it to epoxying it and then eventually to getting it on the water and testing it out if you have a lot of creative talent but look at some of the past process and thought to yourself i don't have any time for any of that stuff this is the video for you to maximize in your creative ability and get it done as quickly as possible so you can spend more time on the water fishing and less time cranking them out hey so here was my shopping list got 90 of the stuff from hobby lobby and got sculpey clay tools for it some casting silicone and casting resin and the stainless steel rods and the spray paint can all be found in the little hobby model car section you'll need foam board which is like three bucks there bailing wire which you can get from lowe's or any sort of hardware store you can get spray paint of any choice but i would get the little tester spray paints they have over there at hobby lobby in the section 30 minute epoxy you can find a hobby lobby or anywhere else and i'm sure you all have plastic worms somewhere in your current tackle situation that you don't really care for and would like to melt down for experiment and the luma light hardener you'll have to get that separately but that is also optional so for starters we're going to use clay for the entire master mold instead of wood because of wood's labor intensity and just overall being harder to use and if you mess it up at all you're kind of effed with play it's much easier to use and mold much faster and if you mess it up you just remold it again i'm between projects right now so my entire time frame to get this bait done between work and family and other extenuating obligations is probably two days they're gonna go ahead and just kind of form this out by the way i'm gonna make this one slightly detailed i don't really think you need to make it detailed at all it just needs to swim right you can literally just make a bait that's shaped the right way and as long as it swims right you can just you know use a sharpie to put in the detail like draw a little smiley face on it and it'll catch fish in order to get the design in shape for this bait i literally just googled what a threadfit chad looks like and then also what a gizzard chat looks like and somewhere in between we're gonna come up with that the bigger problem a lot of people have with sculpey is that it'll mush so you can get one side perfect there's no guarantee that you can turn it around and do the other side as well what i'm doing here is just making an inner core meaning i'm shaving it close to the way i think i want it getting it as fairly thin as possible because then after we bake this piece we are going to go ahead and skin each side with a brand new layer of detail that's about right it's about what we want so we're going to go ahead and put it in the glass face stick in the oven for 15 minutes to 275 degrees and while it's in there cooking we're going to go ahead and flatten out the rest of the clay to create the skin layers here it is all nice and cured and hardened we're going to go ahead and just kind of trim it up this is just being meticulous but i kind of want to look a certain way on each side that way each skin layer will fit correctly and there's no lopsided emptiness it's also changes once you bake it it loses i think a little bit of mass and just looks a little different than when you put it in but it's fine so what we're going to do now is we are going to just go ahead and flush that piece right on one side i'm going to mush it in real good get it all nice and thin and then just literally stick it onto the already baked inner core now i'm going to go ahead and just cut an even 50 50 split because we need both sides to be directly even so go ahead and carve that off then we'll even have a little bit of time to reshape it once we bake it again this entire thing needs to bake be baked three times in the entire series and this is how easy it is to actually get the detail versus carving it out so i just use the back end of that hobby knife to go ahead and indent the eye now i'm just using a simple clay tool just to trace around to get the face design i pulled up google of threadfin and gizzard shed and then i also looked at some other swimbaits who have the guild detail in really really well so i didn't exact direct mold replica off of those but i did kind of look at them for guidance so i can go ahead and get mine at least proportionate with the bait again this is all pretty easy i'm taking really no effort to carve this out and then also smooth it on you could also just go ahead and bake your entire piece and then carve it out like you would would although it is not as forgiving as what at that point in time and you have to be very meticulous in how you carve it out i find it much easier to do it while it's soft and then bake it and turn it around and then redo the other side and then bake it again when it is completely like kind of be held up on a brace so neither end can kind of mess up or fluster out my gopro corrupted during the last bake but you have to have the bait standing up on its belly i put a screwdrive on the very very top of the master mold near the head and then put baling wire and made an artificial stand for it to bake that way for 15 minutes because it cannot bake once you have both sides carved out and put in there it cannot bake on one side or it'll start to flatten out and and they'll have problems but before we even bake this we're gonna go ahead and make scales scales take forever to carve into wood especially millions small scales like what a shad has we're using butterfly net and we're slightly pressing into all the smooth end of where the bait was making sure not to touch the details of the face after primering this i realized i could have pressed it a little harder so i took note of that and check out this geal that i did that's with a loofah instead of taking hours maybe days to carve and sand something like this i did this probably in about an hour maybe less pretty easy before this i made two master molds of different shad types they swim completely different and for different purposes this one that i'm trying to make now needs a wider profile but it needs to be lighter than my bottom shed down there that way it will glide deeper and kind of stay afloat may stay suspended a little bit better versus the other one i suspect it'll be around nine inches once it's completely done with the tail here's the inside core i primer over these to look for defects if i find defects i'll re-shape and remold jb water well which is a quick dry epoxy like little putty stuff like for plumbing i just use it to touch any sort of my clay molds up in the in a situation like this where i i need to do a little bit more fine tuning i'm just a little bit meticulous about this but it fits good you put your eyes in you can get screw eyes from lurepartsonline.com or on ebay and you can also get them from home depot or any hardware store they're just not going to be stainless if you can find stainless screw rides in a hardware store you're lucky right now i just have basic ones in there to make sure that the bait will pivot on both sides equally and i'm going to get the sort of glide i want then i just re-prime it over the back end to check to see if it's okay and i'm using the tail from that other bait since i destroyed it to see how this is gonna look and if i can use the same kind of profile tail since it all looks like it's gonna work really well we're gonna go ahead and use that foam board that three dollar foam board we got we're gonna get a hot glue gun and some glue sticks we're just gonna go ahead and cut pieces out and make our own little box we're gonna make this a one piece mold it's gonna be two parts but the molds for each the front and the tail are going to be just one piece and then we're going to tactfully cut it after we put it all in there to suspend these in place which is normally why people do two-piece molds so the mold can be completely centered they'll they'll make the mold so it can cast on one side and then they'll flip it over and do it another time but that's too long i don't have time for any of that i need this thing done in a day so how we're gonna do this we're gonna take bailing wire put it tactfully through the foam board and once it through the foam board remember to glue around it or the silicone mold will start bleeding out of those holes you put two on the bottom to brace it and then we'll put two on each side of the mold to kind of pin it in place my gopro corrupted so you can't see that but that's what i did and did that for both sides now this is aluminite high strength three uh silicone mold and that is right from hobby lobby use their 40 percent off coupon and it's like a it's a pretty good deal you could also just get it directly from their site and bulk like get like five gallons of it and i just like mass hoarded these over time and got one here got one there in between my little uh our projects in fun fact when these molds wear out you can cut them into little blocks and cubes and then reuse them into brand new mold that way you're not constantly burning through brand new mold it actually saves a lot of money that way that's what we're doing pouring it in spurts we're mixing a pound of it at a time and then sticking it in we just do the same process and repeat until you have enough mold over each piece to be comfortable with the outcome we need maybe about a half inch or so three quarters if you want to be really meticulous about three quarter inch over the actual mold so when you cut it it stays form in one piece really well now we wait a whole afternoon i think the cure time is like 12 to 18 hours so this is where we're back the next day and here we go we're back the next day but overall amount of time spent into making the master mold and then multigate and silicone is only about a few hours so we're going to just speed this up take it out of the foam board and draw templates where we want to cut and then label each side so we don't forget do this very tactfully for the tail you want to cut straight down and then right towards the very back right where the tail creases you want to cut to the side you want to do that so you leave the mold and the tail intact that way when you go to pour the tail will not be distorted now if you cut straight down in the middle of the tail you would have a distorted tail it would either be too big or whatever and i've done that didn't work so you got to cut around the very back of the tail if you're going to want this one piece mold to work otherwise it won't you're also going to have to cut little little air chambers every so often throughout the side but before we even do that let's go ahead and pull this out and see how the inner side came out you might have to struggle a little bit to get it out but just be careful because it is clay i probably could have cut that forward a little more and now i know when i'm like showing you these molds i realized after like reviewing and editing them what they look like and i want you to know that is not my intention and nothing i do here is meant to be perverted at all just that's just how it looks sorry anyways you do the same thing for the front and we're only trying to cut maybe about 25 to 30 percent we're trying to leave the other 60 intact you really only want that much out cut and you want everything else because when you do that the smoother finish your mold will be less cleanup and less distortions to the overall mold except for the very top and obviously in the middle but the distortion to the middle doesn't really matter because that's where your bait joins these are the air chambers i'm talking about cutting out you got to cut one specifically for the pour and then every so often where you think air might collect when you pour in the resin you need to make a little slight little bevel chamber right here we're just doing that in a little triangle cutting right up from the top into where the mold is and that should help bleed out any of the air pockets so you don't have any small distortions i think i've got a pretty good spot here where it'll bleed all the air if it doesn't bleed all the air and i get air pockets inside the resin mold then i'll just spread it out more and cut more little air vents we're using baling wire for pretty much everything else it does great job for keeping the molds together you know i've seen a lot of people use rubber bands how miserable also for the weight you can get like balances that are really expensive but i'm using a piece of spaghetti and some egg sinkers from the tackle shop and then later on i ditch the spaghetti all together and just use fishing line you're gonna have to mess with weights weight is like maybe the bigger issue with doing your whole thing you have to test that re-test that just get a five-gallon bucket of water and make sure it floats even and we'll talk about how that's supposed to go here in a little bit right now we are using micro balloons which is also really cheap for five gallon buckets like 20 bucks and that will distort the density of your resin to make it either more dense or less dense and it will adversely affect the sink rate and the overall weight of the lure and again i do not mean for any of this look that way that's just how it looks please don't leave any perverted comments in my comment section because that's bad d mold time is 15 minutes the resin gets super hot so don't take it out too fast it'll also mess up things if you take it out too fast the overall cure time for the mole once it's completely out is i think about a few hours possibly into the next morning it's completely and fully hard but while it's cooking there you might as well make as many as you possibly can so right now since i'm in a bait making mood i'm just making all kinds of different molds i mold about three or four different baits um some crucial ones that i want to try out so we're just going to go ahead and check them out this one's already done i'm pretty excited because this is going to see where any of the defects are if there are defects at all but see that section where we cut around the side of the tail that's why so the tail comes out perfect otherwise it's not going to come out perfect pretty good i do have one big giant air pocket up there when so that what i did for the next mold is i just cut it up further and then i made a little air vent but this came out pretty well i'm just gonna go ahead and clean it up and then we're gonna go ahead and forward that a little bit more and then we're going to go ahead and cut another air vent now let's see how the front came out the back came out fairly well the back is maybe the more tough one the front is generally pretty pain-free because it's just i mean it's not too much to it doesn't have a tail crease doesn't have this doesn't have that doesn't have a giant beveling edge so the cleanup is very minimal with this too where most all the bait is distorted when you do a two-piece mold there is very very little of the bait that actually has distorted the bottom is more or less perfect every time with zero distortions the scales came out pretty good always re-look and re-look over your mold because any fingerprint or any sort of nick will show up in the mold at least two or three times worse than it shows up in your master mold so just know that when you cast it any little detail stays in there that one is good enough for government work this one is my older shed that i see the mold's still good so we're gonna go ahead and recast a few of these this one swim this one's a little heavier and it swims like a tank it doesn't it doesn't jerk off or do anything or spin around it's you can swim in any way you want the only thing is it just doesn't dive it doesn't glide as deep and it sinks a little faster than i want but this one's pretty nice too we're gonna go ahead and run two of these along with pretty much everything else that i have out there we're gonna go ahead and paint them and that is the next section of this whole thing the painting oh yeah i forgot to show you the screw eyes and the pin so in the master mold there's these little divots that i have from the initial marks where i put the screw eyes in i got these from lure parts online sometimes you can find them in bulk else places but you really got to be specific on the sizes they come in all different shapes and sizes and lengths i like the smaller ones they seem to do just as well as the larger ones when i have an excessively big bait then i have to use larger screw eyes you can get these from the hardware store also quite a few times in fact i think some of these actually are from there because i couldn't get the size i wanted to do the job that i needed to do for the lower parts online in place there's actually a smaller my smaller shad my gopro file corrupted when i was doing the other one and so but i do have it here to show you on this and it's just pretty much the exact same process screwing them in there and with every little screw and every little tweak or you know tailoring of that of those screw eyes the back tail kind of moves a certain way so you got to kind of back in back them in and out and make sure they're kind of tuned so you get even swim on both sides that's a bigger thing can it swim does the tail move evenly on both sides you tune the screw eyes until they do and then you very very carefully take a drill and then you pre-drill the holes so you have a bunch of pilot holes everywhere because if you do try and just like openly just push in the screw eyes or force them in or torque down on them they will break off in your bait and that'll pretty much ruin your bait that will ruin the mold and that is miserable you have to kind of throw it away or modify it in some way to where it's going to access accept the additional weight and you'll still have your hook spot in the in a reasonable place they probably i'm now thinking about it and looking at this i probably should just use the punch or something to kind of mark in a little better versus kind of just winging it with that drill to just fyi should also be able to get split rings from your local tackle store i think they even have them at walmart just depends on your walmart and you can also order them online as well these are like 80 or 90 pound split rings because the fish they hit out here are pretty heavy and ruthless and they'll just rip off split rings and bend out your hook you don't watch it now we're on to painting i just want to show you that little section you can either use primer or an adhesive promoter people use both get fair results i'm using an adhesion promoter here i like we'll be using primer later on now we're using silver paint like the rust-oleum mirror finish stuff i think that's what it is but it's over there in the craft section in the heart and i'm sorry the hobby lobby section and we're always always bringing a base coat for this one we're going to spray a black base coat because that's going to end up being a carp and we want the scales to pop in the middle but this is all spray paint that's all a big giant can of spray paint i would love to take the little time that it would take constantly tweaking and modding and cleaning out an airbrush but i don't have time for that crap i don't i have a little bit of time here and there to do this i know what colors catch fish i know what patterns need to be there i put in all that detail so i wouldn't have to put in a whole lot of detail painting and that's the beauty of putting in the detail painting if you care to know but the more detailed your mold is the less sophisticated the paint job has to look i mean you have some people that are doing exquisite uh intricate detail into the mold and then exquisite paint jobs but that better be their full-time job or they better have nothing else going on in life after that because that just takes forever and again pretty much the entire series if you haven't gotten it is ain't nobody got time for that stuff here we are with the gold this is the rust-oleum gold like mirror finish gold spray paint we're painting it from an angle that way we don't cut into the the back side of the scales that way the black still pops out we are allowing anywhere from like a half hour to an hour it depends on whatever the dry time says on the back of the spray paint pay attention to that because that's real so when it says to coat within you know one to four hours wait you have to wait an hour for that for that stuff to dry you have to wait for the initial layer to like dry completely or your entire paint job will be watched you also have to watch the coating and we're kind of the better stuff that i really liked were the testers the testers little tiny little spray paint cans they were a little bit more precise uh you can get the bigger spray paint cans they kind of just throw a bunch of paint all over and you have to if you get too much on one side you have to repaint it it's a pain so i just get the little tester spray cans and they have a bunch of different colors i really like like this one came up pretty nice and that was with two or three different types of paint um pretty aggressive on the top and then a yellow belly and some other stuff the only thing left is to really epoxy these and you can do that one of two ways if you want your epoxy to dry correctly you will need an epoxy drying setup and we'll show you that here in a second or you can just get a lumen light uv resin and that stuff you don't need to make any sort of apparatus they could just hang like that in the sun or in a nail in an air dryer anything with like uv light and they'll cure and they look pretty good so it's just up to you because i needed an epoxy dryer i made this out of pvc uh like a rotisserie bbq motor that i bought off ebay and some scrap wood i had around and then i kind of just made these apparatuses to hold the bait out of some of the screw eyes and some you know it could have done this really out of anything in fact i could have done it way smarter but it does give all the baits an even turn that way the resin cannot run and like try and separate and make your bait look terrible now that we're done with that we're ready to make the tail so normally people how they make nice advanced tails as they go ahead and do the entire process that we did for that fish and mold a tail i don't have time for that crap i literally just want to make a tail really quick i'm using plastisol which is pretty much just rubber worm cubes just not formed yet they made for diy bait making stuff or you could just get a bunch of rubber worms in a bag of your choice in color and heat them up just like this heat them up for you know 30 seconds here possibly a minute the first time and then you want to keep shrinking down the intervals 20 seconds 10 seconds 5 seconds to get a certain consistency but once it's all kind of melted into a section you can actually pour and just use it like that i'm gonna go a step further i have this aluminum light uh hardener for plastic hardener to make your stuff and it works really good it looks like elmer's glue though i'm going to do an experiment later and see if elmer's glue will toughen up the stuff just like this and if it does then i will let you know but right now the aluminum light uh plastic hardener is the only thing that is really not sold at hobby lobby that you might have to order um from an outside source or from illumina from the illuminate website themselves so here i am keep i keep stirring i keep trying to get the desired consistency later on i just figured why don't i just put it right on the microwave plates that way it will melt evenly and flat and just give me the flat layer i need because literally i need is it for it to flatten out just like how it is i actually cooked it about five seconds too long so that's where you can see it started to discolor but that's alright it's gonna look okay but just know that's how tedious you gotta you gotta really shrink the time as it moves up especially when you're putting that hardener the stuff will burn a little easier in the microwave the microwave is really the best and maybe the i don't know i don't know how else you would do it but i just did it out of microwave put it right on the pan it flattened it out and that's perfect so let's go ahead and mold this thing out cut it out so after looking at what a shad tail looks online i kind of get these pieces off i'm going to lay them there one piece is a little bit thicker than the other and that one's gonna ultimately be the one that i'm gonna use i can use the other thinner piece for smaller baits i'm just gonna go ahead and draw a tail and i'm gonna cut it out and i'm gonna use it as a template to cut a tail into that plastic and just cut it out to make sure it fits so now that it fits i want to add some detail to it and how we're going to do that we're just going to get a soldering iron or in this case i have a foam cutter which is going to give me a little bit because it may give me the ability to make my lines a little bit straighter easier because the rod's so thin but a normal soldering iron will do this just fine a little soldering iron from harbor freight just cut little grooves in your tail like that that's how i'm doing it i'm sure now that you guys see this some of you will come up with something very cool and i can't wait to see that but yeah here it is and now that we know it's going to look good we're going to just stick it in there some people put pins in their tails and i used to do that and then i realized it was a giant waste of time because when you super glue it in there it does not come out and if it starts like coming loose like it'll give you signs before the entire thing comes out you just re-super glue it but super glue seems to be a phenomenal thing i also super glue the middle pin that holds the bait together i put super glue around the top and bottom of the pin so it doesn't end up shaking out and causing your problems just gonna give a nice even run and obviously watch your fingers later on we go ahead and color it with a marker just to give it a tint i like the way this thing came out pretty good right in testing this thing it does exactly what i need to do it does a much deeper glide and it suspends for a lot longer so it stays in place a lot longer and so this is much better for catching like the large lethargic bass or the very picky striper it also catches people like my friend richard here i don't have a whole lot of media to show you but it does catch fish and it does do a very good job can't wait to get a launch on this thing and set my own personal best hope you do the same with your bait guys take care

Channel: Tiny Boat Nation

Views: 18,351

Rating: 4.9135561 out of 5

Keywords: bait making, lure diy, lure fishing, swimbait, swimbait fishing, fishing, bass fishing, largemouth bass, marling baits, marling baits soft plastics, solar baits, gan craft, savage gear swimbait, big bait big fish, TBNation, tiny boat nation, diy bait making, handmade top water lure, make your own lures, make your own swimbaits, how to make lures, lure making, bait, lure, fishing lure, carp, angling, boilies, custom baits, fishing lures, outdoors, making lures, bending lure wire

Id: LVXeSBG-2-8

Length: 28min 59sec (1739 seconds)

Published: Mon Oct 05 2020