FALLOUT 4 - How to Make a Mini-Nuke with EVA Foam!

this is the dragon egg from Game of Thrones that I made a couple of weeks ago it's all Eevee a foam and they made a pattern and gave it out for free so that other people could make it I also asked you for ideas for other props you could make using that pattern and you gave me some really good ones including my very favorite which would be the mini nuke from fallout it's a classic can't wait to build it and I can't wait to build it using a bunch of cool stuff from our sponsor plaid crafts plant sent us a really cool value kit that they've put together for cosplay that includes a bunch of materials and paints specific for our craft it's really awesome I'll link to it down below in fact it's worth checking out just to get some really good ideas if you would take a look at what they're offering and have some fun project ideas I would love for you to share that with me and of course with everyone else who's watching leave a comment down below with any cool project ideas that would work well with that kit for the mini nuke I'm gonna go ahead and print out my template to get started the template is of course just a PDF that I put together the only difference is when I go to print it I should have the option to change the scale now in this case I'm gonna change it down to 75 percent scale and print it out so that I can make my nuke I've got my pattern all printed out I'll need to use this six times to make my full egg shape I also printed out some reference images this will help me along with the build I'll be building it out of foam of course this is the sks foam that's really wonderful gonna go with the six millimeter thickness for this I've already built an egg shape in the egg video so I think it's montage time while I put this thing together yeah [Music] [Music] [Music] the main egg shape for our mini nuke is all done I went and sanded the seams down as smooth as I could because we don't want those showing up in the final product now it's time to design the rest of it the fins that go on the bottom while this was still in two halves I took the opportunity to trace the profile so that I can design everything around it and it should fit nice and snug I've got some references here and I've also got some material to work for our fins including some PVC pipes some giant PVC pipes I don't even know where I got this one from it's a giant coupler but I think it's gonna be perfect for the bottom thin thing I just need to cut it down a little bit and then there's another tube on the inside of it and I'm gonna use this PVC pipe here knowing the diameters of the tubes I'm gonna work with means I can lay that out on my drawing here and design those fins so that's the diameter of this guy it's gonna be about that wide and then the other one is going to be about this wide I don't need to be super precise here the foam is pretty forgiving but this is the the gap that the fin needs to fit through this fin here then I'm going to design it'll be on the inside of that and on the outside of that so the fin needs to fit in there this shape right there is gonna be not critical but important to make sure that it glues properly to our egg shape so that'll be one of the fins and I can cut one out and see if it fits or cut a couple out and see if they fit and if they do then I'll cut the rest of the mountain and now the moment of truth it fits perfectly it doesn't always work out that well but when it does it feels good all right let's get the circley bits ready to go those circly bits are my PVC pipes and roughly figured out this is about how tall this piece needs to be and then this piece needs to be just a little bit taller and I think I'm going to cut those out over on the bandsaw [Applause] [Music] [Music] come on PVC pipes here all smoothed out and I can see if these want to fit but I don't think they're going to these should fit between the two if it's centered so I will have to remove a little bit of material and I think I want to remove it from the inside if these parts were where they're gonna end up like so this would need to fit between the two of them and it looks like it's not as snug as it ought to be so I'm gonna move remove about an eighth of an inch from the inside they're most accurate way is to use my bandsaw with a fence so I have it set with 1/8 inch gap there and I can just run these through that way they'll all be done the same exact way [Applause] now our modified fins should fit kind of snug but that's okay oh you stay in the middle there there we go that's where everything is probably gonna end up and our egg fits perfectly that looks awesome fantastic okay cool I can set that aside and set these aside for now this needs to be modified quite a bit so that's what I'm gonna do next to figure out where I need to cut it out I'm gonna make a pattern by wrapping this whole thing in tape and then I can unwrap it measure out everything I need to do and then use that as my template to cut it out where that overlaps there I can use the one two three block to get a nice square edge and just do that and get rid of that and now sort of that this is the pattern and I can draw that out now that it's flat I can measure how wide all the parts need to be as luck would have it this isn't even 400 millimeters which should make the map a lot easier split it into quadrants here and then I need to figure out these these gaps that's when I'm kind of plotting right now god I think everything plotted out and I should just be able to tack this back down on my piece of pipe here I'll just use those lines to guide my rotary tool and cut it out there are a lot of different options for cutting this out a handsaw might work pretty well I'm gonna use this sort of buzzsaw attachment on my rotary tool to do most of it then I'll probably come in with a little saw to finish those corners [Music] I made most of the way through with the cutoff blade and I'm not ashamed to admit that this giant thing here makes me really nervous and it was a little bit touch-and-go so maybe a less aggressive cut a cut-off wheel I did need this wider one to be able to cut all the way through it though the blade I had on there wouldn't make it all the way through to finish it off safely I've just got this little saw blade right here and I'll use that to hand cut the the corners to remove these last bits here and there we go that's fairly clean I will have to go in and say in that a bit but overall that turned out ok this parts all sanded fairly smooth the next part here is to figure out all of the horizontal lines that are going to go across this starting with the one at the very base of where the fins connect so I've just sort of friction fit everything together so there's going to be a line right there and then I'll figure out where along this the rest of the horizontal lines are gonna go it's about 55 millimetres down that's where our things gonna start go around like that hands like a surgeon like a surgeon Hey this tape bottom that's how Em's look right bottom this tape is gonna help me figure out where the rest of those lines go so I'm just going along this seam here and then I can look at my reference here and I'm just gonna kind of eyeball where those are gonna go so this one is kind of in the middle actually these two might be raised like I might do like a thin strip of foam around it but that's gonna go kind of there and then there's another above it a little bit like that took a kind of windy path to get there but I think I have this figured out there's gonna be a couple cuts there and then a gap where the screw heads go and then there's this yellow band between here and here and then a little gap and then there's these two raised bits so I can mark each one of these along that seam and then trace them out I've got all my lines plotted out and now it's time to cut the details I could just score this and heatgun it but I want a slightly more aggressive trench so I'm gonna try and cut a V group by cutting two lines to remove the material part of the reason I don't want to use the heat gun is it could separate my glue seams if I'm not careful it's happened in the past and I really want these to open up a lot so if I were to just blast it with heat I might get these to open up a bit but those glue seams might also open up you know one pass and then I can come in and do the other one but I'm gonna sharpen this blade before I do that I'm working with such a small bit of the blade and I don't want to have to cut it more than once so I'm making sure it's nice and sharp we can see that's cutting our group for us there we go that's what we're going for very pronounced groove groovy so some of these like the one I'm cutting will be a groove some of the other ones I'm gonna add material to it so I'm not cutting these too after a little bit of cleanup work with the rotary tool our trenches are looking pretty good I also trimmed these parts a little bit shorter here two closer match the reference and that's just about ready to go there are some details I want to add to our nerf football here that are raised up and I'm gonna do that with some two millimeter foam just cut some nice thin strips using my see-through ruler with a metal edge so I don't cut the end of the plastic there it's nice and protected I have another see-through ruler and the end of that one is not protected and it's all carved up this poor guys seen some stuff for a thin detail work like this I usually go with superglue the foam will tack up almost immediately so it's not going to go anywhere it's a lot quicker and more precise than trying to get a brush in there to put your contacts on it down those just work in little sections until that piece is wrapped all the way around as I come to the end I'm gonna trim this first and then I'll just glue it in try and get that to line up really well yeah that's not too bad I'm kind of pulling this across as I go you can stretch it quite a bit if you need to on this case I'm trying not to I don't if I stretch it it'll get thinner so I want to just lay it down just tight enough stick not too bad and I only got a little bit of superglue on my hand nearly forgot there's another strip of detail up here at the tip of our mini-nuke mm the astute will note that there's a piece of gold leaf stuck there I feel like every project for the next three or four months gonna have gold leaf on it in some way thanks to our elder scroll just about ready to glue all the parts together but before I do that I want to round over any of the exposed edges here there's some fuzzy bits on there I want to get rid of so I'll just zip those off this makes everything look a lot more tidy finally it's time for assembly and instead of rushing into it I'm going to do a pre assembly a dry fit this piece needs to be raised up a little higher so I have these little metric blocks there that gets that to the right height and then I can take my fins and try and wedge them in there so they hold everything in place it's gonna be a little tricky I've been doing this a couple times I feel like I got it I just want to make sure everything's centered up yeah see if you twist it at all the parts will all go flying but if I can get it all centered properly and get everything to the right height it should be able to line everything up and then the thought is that I then glue each of these one at a time I could also use a pen to mark how high this should go so when I'm gluing it back in I know where it needs to go I think I have everything figured out where everything's gonna go so I'm gonna start gluing that part needs to go up that high and he needs to go right there and straight up and down as possible I think so I'm just using superglue for this that seems to be a pretty good way of putting foam on PVC the surface of the PVC has been sanded so that it's got some nice grip I'll put a little bit of my accelerant on there to lock it in place there we go and round and round we go that looks pretty good and I should just be able to stuff it in there centered still have my blocks down there to keep it at the right height I'm just so paranoid about this thing not fitting right I just keep checking and double-checking all right so I need to glue this to that and I think more superglue is in order I bet I can do one at a time and just like slide it over put a little glue here slide this back over into the correct position well that grabbed on really fast and then I should be able to just sort of rotate it around and do the same thing over and over again before everything gets glued together I'm gonna put some pilot holes in here where there gonna be some screws to make sure that's repeatable for all of the four sort of wing wings I got to do I'm gonna make a quick template just by covering that in tape happens to be the right width across this that looks pretty good and I'll sort of mirror that over there and then what I can do is use this piece of tape to mark all of them so I've just got an awl here and I can just stamp through the middle of that and then this can be reused and I've got little marks there to drill I'm just gonna put a pilot hole right there like that and drill them all out I'm gonna use real screw heads in here and I can just screw them right in and then I can just rotate around to the next one and use my same pattern to do that again there are larger screws that go around here and there are six of them which makes it easy that can go right on our seam lines here and I'm just gonna poke in the middle just poke with the awl we'll drill that out once we've done more of our finishing to fit a screw in there but I do want to just locate them before we've done all our finishing work some of the other spots are a little more tricky there are screws that go around here but there are eight of them and they need to figure out the spacing on that so I've got a piece of tape here and I'm just gonna wrap it around the sort of middle part of that panel there that's falling off this is just a lot you know what actually actually I have something else it might work this is a vinyl tape this is usually used for masking but it's kind of stretchy so I should be able to stretch it around the surface yeah that's a little bit better than asking tape that'll be the starting point that'll be the ending point oh I can peel this off 253 253 divided by eight is thirty-one point six so I should make a mark every thirty-one I realize this is not the most accurate way to do this but if our screws on our tiny Nuuk aren't perfectly spaced I'll be okay with it I've got eight equal sections here this side and this side are the same so they match up so I should be good to transfer this to my mini-nuke there we go now again I can go in and poke where everything's gonna go okay cool those are marked I know where those screws need to be there's also rivets up here and I'm going to do those out of foam there's also eight of them so I'm just gonna make them all bisect each one of these so kind of like right there in between those two right there those look fairly evenly spaced I'm gonna do more two millimeter foam I'm gonna just cut it out with a hole punch this is my leather hole punch does a pretty great job of cutting out little pieces of foam mmm punch oh that went in there she's my exacto - pop that out we got ourselves a tiny little rivet more superglue for this and I can hold the piece on my exacto just stick it down there we go happy little rivet I am getting this lined up where it needs to be so like a mark where to glue it I'm gonna use contact cement to glue this to the bottom you need to know where that glue should go I'm just marking the edges here so that's where I need to glue on here I'm also realizing there's just one more detail thing I forgot there's these little I don't know triangle looking things I need four of those so I'll cut those out and glue them down these last detail things go right along the surface here so I'm just using my previous egg thing to kind of come up with the profile for that and I know it should match that surface when I glue it down so this is my pattern and I'll I'll make four of them niether some tiny pieces probably gonna cut these on the bandsaw just to make sure the edges are all nice and perpendicular I'm also gonna trace five of these even though I need four because I will probably lose one there are pairs of these and they each straddle a fin so I'm gonna get everything kind of lined up and then just glue it down again more superglue here just cuz it's quick and I really only have one shot at this looks good I just have to make sure this one looks similar I can't even line it up give myself a little help and marking it so it'll go there there we go we've got our pairs of doodads attached now finally I can attach this to that since I made those marks I know exactly where to brush my glue glue on the other side over here there's no turning back now we're committing this is how it's gonna be it is slightly lopsided a little bit but for a post-apocalyptic nuclear warhead I think it's gonna be okay the next thing we want to do is seal it I'm gonna seal this whole thing using Mod Podge to hold it though I want a handle that's not going to get glued and I have this pipe that's a little undersized so I'm gonna wrap it in more two millimeter foam and that should be nice and snug in there yep just like so now I've got my wand and I can brush this and I can also put it on my stand to let it dry without this hitting the ground what we have is just normal Mod Podge the matte version and I'm gonna pour a little out into a cup to work from we also have this spray version of it which is a thinned down version of Mod Podge it's a little too thin to just spray and cover really well for this particular application but I can use it to thin the really thick stuff a little bit the hope here is that this will minimize brushstrokes and the final finish mix those together to thin it a bit I like to just make sure I get at least the first layer down and all the crevices especially these raised details want to make sure it's nice and covered it can be easy to miss spots because this stuff does dry clear once I have a significant portion covered I can kind of brush over it pick up any extra Mod Podge that's pooling and try and get rid of any brushstrokes I'm putting the Mod Podge on both the foam and the plastic so I've got a nice cohesive finish so everything's the same it should bond just fine to the plastic just like it does with the foam our first layer is all dry I'm probably gonna end up brushing on two or three layers total I will let it dry in between each one of those layers and again this is more of the Mod Podge and speaking of Mod Podge now it's a great time to thank our sponsor of this video plaid crafts they make Mod Podge and a bunch of other really fantastic art materials that are super useful for cosplay they have a website now plaid cosplay dot-com with a bunch of fantastic resources over there they have video tutorials and free patterns to help you get started with some really fun projects you can also check out their section on all their different materials and tools that they have for sale including the kit we're gonna use on this project the finishing kit for cosplay a bunch of really neat effects that will show off here in just a little bit it's also worth going over there and seeing what other products they have available and see if they spark some sort of idea or inspiration for an upcoming project you might be working on they've also got an area over at plaid cosplay calm for community a great place to go see what other people are up to and share what you've been up to there on all the social media platforms and they're gonna be doing some upcoming events including Dragon Con which I'm particularly excited about so thanks again to applied crafts for sponsoring this video and also for providing some really fun resources for cosplayers like me in the meantime I'm just gonna keep brushing on all of my Mod Podge after true layers of Mod Podge I sprayed everything down with some gray primer just to have a nice base coat for our paint for the paint I've got some nice folk art paints right here when I start with the green base coat this green was pretty good but I mix it together to get more of like an olive with some brown I'm just gonna coat everything with that here's my nice olive paint in there and it got some new brushes from flat let me go with the biggest one here just so I can cover as much as possible the tops gonna be red I can probably not paint that while that covers really well I may only have to do one good layer of this I mix this green up in its own jar I figured I would need a lot of it but I want to use it for weathering later to do some paint chipping some of these spots are meant to look like the tops red but there's some corrosion on there so I'll stipple some of the green on top of that red to make it look like it's chipped down to the green paint so I have a jar here that I can seal so it doesn't dry and I can use that paint later on in the in the project I got a little paint on the nosecone so I'm just gonna paint the whole thing it'll get painted red later but I just wanted to be consistent this is the last bit of green and I think one layer will do it my green is dry enough to touch and I did some tests with my tape it's also dry enough to mask if I'm gentle the next thing I want to do is the yellow stripe that's going around the top here and there's a yellow triangle as well got my paint ready to go but I need to mask those areas off to go around this ring I'm gonna use this vinyl tape again there's a triangle right here and so long as it looks Americal and I'll be happy with that that that is some mustard right there I've got my brown paint I'm gonna darken this just a little bit I'm gonna add a little bit at a time to sort of sneak up on the color that we want it can be really easy to darken this way too much with too much Brown paint will do a weathering pass over this whole thing to darken everything a little bit but I want to make sure the base colors are close to what I want that's pretty good the masking makes this so easy I'll probably have to do at least two layers this isn't fully covering the green which is to be expected yellow doesn't usually cover very well if you really wanted this to be bright you could put white first and then when that tries go over it with yellow but in this case I'm okay with some muted colors if you're a little bit of hair dryer I'm going to go in with the second layer and that is definitely covering a lot better and I think that'll be good enough for our needs anyway oh I got a little bit of paint bleeding under that I can go in with my green paint and fix that if I want to maybe it you know maybe the guy who is manufacturing these gooped up the paint job and this masking tape comes right off it's just barely holding on none of that green paint is coming off which is really nice because I did not let it dry very long I got a little a little yellow up there I can fix that later alright for the red I do need to do a little bit of masking on these little fins here got my to me a masking tape you know like that there we go oh that that's pretty good right there for the red I'm going with this cardinal red and as far as application is concerned I'm just brushing it on and I will probably have to put two layers on as well same as the yellow that's a nice shade of red no I can take off more masking tape the kit that we got from plaid has a bunch of these metallic paints in a variety of sequentially darker color so I'm gonna go with this darkest one for the little rivets on the top here and also these little protrusions on the bottom this is brushed black nothing too fancy here there's paint in circles it could mask this as well but I'm pretty confident in my ability to to brush in straight lines I was waiting to mess that up as I said it I'm pretty good at painting you guys now that I've taken it off of the stand this inside still white so I can go in with my green and paint that it's gonna take a couple coats because I didn't get any primer on that but that's okay also I can look for any areas that I missed like that spot this spot get some red on it I can fix that you know hide my crimes speaking of hiding my crimes let's fix this part here there we go no one will ever know except for you but that's okay I know my secret safe with you along with hiding anywhere I goofed up I can use this green to add a little bit of paint chipping now I could have masked this before and peel the paint off but I didn't do that so now I'm just taking and making it look kind of like the reference picture where there's scratches and stuff but the the yellow paint I'll make it look like it's chipped down to the green so I'm just painting green on there kind of a haphazard manner to make it look like the yellow has chipped off well scratches good news it's a boy but look at my tiny adorable nuke now as much as I want to dive in and start really weathering this right now I just did all this painting in like the last two hours and it's not dry even though I hit it with a hairdryer doing a wash over it with like wet acrylics will probably lift a lot of this paint so I've got this matte Mod Podge acrylic sealer I'm gonna seal this with some of that spray and then let the whole thing dry overnight it is a new day and I'm glad I waited everything is really dry and we can get to weathering soon but there's one more detail to add some real screws there's flathead screws all over this thing so I went to the hardware store and I picked up a bunch in a variety of sizes some bigger ones some smaller ones and the first thing I want to do is to beat these up a little bit they're far too shiny to beat it up I've got just a sanding sponge and I'm just scuffing it at like random angles to take away that shine and add scratches like this thing's been knocking around the wasteland for a while I'm getting some damage maybe go into that crevice there and scratch it up a bunch so the original was all shiny like that and our screws are gonna look all beat up like that these are the spots where these larger headed screws are going in but that's a little obnoxiously long I probably don't have to cut that off but I went ahead and did it anyway with my angle grinder these are pretty wide and I want to make sure I don't kind of stuff the foam in when I cut my hole so I've got a tube this is just an aluminum tube and I've sharpened it with a file to make a nice sharp edge there and that should be able to in conjunction with my drill punch a nice clean hole perfect that little nub in there can be pried out and we'll do it again nice while I'm at it I made a sharpened little brass tube for these smaller holes for this one I think hot glue is gonna be our friend or assembly glue a little bit flathead screw these sort of medium-sized screws can go in here and I can just screw them in like I would always using them for real on a real project but I'm gonna put a drop of superglue in there just to make sure it doesn't want to unthread you know how things happen in the the wasteland things get knocked around and then your screws fall out and then your thermonuclear device doesn't work anymore and super mutants are all laughing at you and it's all about looking good in the wasteland the smallest screws go down on the bottom but they're a little long it's gonna poke through so I have my mini bolt cutters these things are so handy I can just go in and remove some of the tip there and I should be able to just screw that right in no need for glue or anything on this it's getting screwed directly into PVC plastic and it should be nice and strong just like that that is all of our screws installed and now it's finally time to do some weathering and I'm going to we're just sort of a dark-brown wash over the whole thing that'll kind of set the mood so to speak and then we're gonna do some rust which would be really fun for that wash I've got a black and brown folk art paint from our kit that plaid sent us those are just gonna get watered down gonna cover the whole thing [Music] nice it's really really dirty I love it [Music] [Applause] I'll be perfectly honest I wasn't in love with the finish until I did this weathering pass and now I think it's really coming together the last bit of detail we're gonna do is some rust more stuff from the kit that we got from plaid there's two paints here we'll do the darker one first and then a little bit of a lighter one on top of it and these actually have particulate in there so not only will we have that rust color but it'll have this sort of chunky texture to figure the screws will be rusty so I'm just I don't know just normal doing normal weathering type work trying to get it down in the crevices just want to make sure I leave some of the chunky bits and I can kind of clean off that screw a little bit use this to sort of fade the paint a bit as well you can see we still have plenty of little chunky bits in there now I want to go in with the lighter paint more of a burnt sienna and kind of use that to augment the rust these two paints should mix together and make a nice rusty effect for us we're trying to think where the rust would collect on this I figure all these screws let's say they're steel so they would rust and maybe they're leaking something and since its upright everything would kind of pool down below it just kind of darkening around it with that darker rust and then adding some you know some contrast with that more orange looking rust you can come in and kind of stipple it a little bit to sort of blend that stuff together and then that tells a little bit of a story I'll tell you what I'm having an awful lot of fun with these rusting paints a little bit of artistry in there a little bit of contrast and grime and of course thank you again to plaid for not only sending us this wonderful kit to work with but for sponsoring this video again you can head over to plaid cosplay com to see everything they've got going on over there all the wonderful materials in the community and this kit that we used here today to get this fantastic effect also I want to thank the members of our extra credit club there's a bunch of different ways you can join over on patreon or right here on YouTube you can hit that membership button that'll give you access to some behind the scenes content build breakdown discussions and weekly vlogs over here from the shop plus early access on all of our build videos and before I finish up I do need to ask that if you enjoyed this video and you want to see more go ahead and hit that subscribe button and the bells so that you get a notification whenever we have a new one going live we do these prop and costume videos all the time and we have a massive backlog of some six or seven hundred videos for you to check out and learn thank you so much for hanging out with me today this looks it's so cute and destructive and wonderful and rusty and I love it so much and I hope that you give this one a go yourself [Music] [Music] that's not my name yeah [Laughter] OOP plaid sent us a really cool value kit [Music]

Channel: Punished Props Academy

Views: 372,602

Keywords: fallout 4, fallout (video game series), fallout (video game), mini nuke, fallout 3, how to, fallout 4 builds, fallout mini nuke, eva foam, foam, foamsmith, how to make, DIY, cosplay, props, painting, PLAID Crafts, acrylic paint, weathering, seams, rust, rusty paint, cosplay tutorial, wasteland, eva foam tutorial, painting tutorial, plaid crafts youtube, fallout mini nuke prop, rusty paint effect, Fallout 76, pip boy, Punished Props, Punished props academy, chinbeard, bill doran

Id: zByepy85DZg

Length: 39min 46sec (2386 seconds)

Published: Mon Jun 10 2019