Extremely Cheap Caterpillar 3406E Engine Rebuild to Fix a Very Bad Previous Rebuild

all right well I'm needing this truck to haul a little dirt and uh so I fired it up and drove it out of the weeds over there where it's been mothballed for the past two years or so squirting a little air in that tire right now but anyway when I fired it up I didn't have any kind of oil pressure eating on my gauges there in the cab which that's not a manual gauge it's a uh electronic gauge you know reading to the data link there on the coming from the ECM so plugged into it with CAD had a bunch of codes and I knew that with that number of codes it's really only one of two things that can be causing that either your wiring harness is destroyed like a rat got in it and chewed it all the or the ECM is going bad so uh I took a quick look at the wiring harness and I could tell that it was fine so I just went ahead and grabbed the ECM off that other truck right there that's a one I drug out of a landfill up in Northern Indiana somewhere I think anyway same truck ECM was already programmed and ready to go so I just stuck it on here see if those codes are all gone yep zero active codes crawl up in the cab and fire it up make sure the gauges work yeah we all good now the other big problem with this piece of is one that I've always known that it had and that's that the engine has got an extravagant amount of blowby I mean it's pretty bad and this second breather tube right here is not even supposed to be there that's one they've added because the blow by was so bad I mean look at it it's still smoking so I'm going to regret it if I don't fix it now I guess I'll just go ahead and do it all right so here's going to be the plan if you've watched the other engine build videos on the channel here you've seen what it looks like to do the high dollar High rebuilds on these engines so what I'm going to do on this one is show you the exact opposite I going to do a quick cheap inframe on this as cheaply as I can possibly do it and I'm going to show you that you can still get a satisfactory result even with nothing but a bunch of junk if you do it right and use a little bit of Common Sense [Applause] [Music] all right I got the belly pan pulled off of it and the hood just came off so I'm just about ready to back at the shop I've got a couple other little things I want to do before I do that though before I swap the engine ECM out for the one that I've got on here now the only Jake cing that was coming on was the center one so I was only getting two cylinders worth of Jake brake so now that I've changed the ECM I want to see if that's still the case or if that's fixed [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] the Jakes are still not uh working on the front and the rear housing only the middle one is coming on still yet so that problem is still there all right this is a little bit unrelated to the video but I wanted to throw this in somewhere towards the beginning it won't take long this YouTube channel has proven to be a pretty good way for me to find people and for people to find me on various different things so I want to use that to my advantage as much as I can obviously so I'm always looking for deals on cheap junk equipment to buy I like to buy the stuff that's completely worn out or doesn't run or has major mechanical problems or partially disassembled whatever the case may be the stuff that most people don't really want to mess with and a lot of times they just want it out of their way that's the kind of stuff I like to buy I've bought several machines like that over the years and usually the hardest part of it is just finding it and knowing that it's there so if if You' got anything like that out there that you want to get rid of let me know I might be interested in it I'm not really looking for any smaller machines I don't need any skid steers or back hose or forklifts or anything like that I'm mostly interested in the bigger stuff like 60 to 70,000 lb machines and bigger dozers loaders excavators Hall trucks diesel engines 10 L and bigger generators things like that and I'm the most interested in caterpillar stuff but it doesn't doesn't have to be cat I would buy anything just depending on what the deal is so if You' got anything out there like that let me know shoot me an email to kt3406e gmail.com just let me know what you've got where it's at and how much you need for it and then if I'm interested we can get into the details after that even if it's 5 or 10 years down the road from now I'm sure I'll keep that email address active so let me know what you got and back to the video [Applause] now so it doesn't really matter where I start on this I just got to start somewhere I guess pulling the cam gear off of it's as good a place as any to do that I've got to pull that peanut cover off right there all right I got the peanut cover off you can probably see why they call it a peanut cover so now I can get to the cam gear which is that big gear right there got to pull those six bolts out of the center of it and then I can pull it off of there some kind of lock tip looks like that shouldn't be there okay now I've got a 3816 bolt and there's going to be a threaded hole in this thing here somewhere right there and now I've got a little bit of a handle to work this thing off here that one's going to be tied I'm going to have to have both hands took me about an hour and 15 minutes to get that cam gear off uh should be about a 4 minute job normally 3 to four if you get a stubborn one they will sometimes be a little tight coming off you just got to take a hammer and tap on both sides of them and work it off it's no big deal I've taken off probably 200 plus of them and this is by far the worst one I've ever had as you can see right there that white stuff on that Dow that's lock tight and that's why I had to fight that so hard kind of ironic these bolts here that hold this retaining ring on he wasn't too worried about lock tighten those in obviously cuz they're working their way out we're using lock tight where we shouldn't be but we're not using it where we absolutely need to be I'm jacking the cab up it should give me a little more room so you just pump this handle and you see that cylinder pushing the cab up and then put that in there so it can't fall on you I've got some of the turbo piping and stuff off turbo outlet pipe from here to the charge a cooler Inlet right there is gone and the intake elbow from the air cleaner to the turbo inlet is gone I've got this section of exhaust pipe here from the turbo turbine housing Outlet back to this elbow which 90s up and goes to the exhaust stack that's all out of there Turbo's in good shape that's a pretty fresh Cat remman Turbo there's a lot of fresh remman Parts on this engine I don't really know what the story there is but all right I think I've pretty well got everything loose from the head that's got to be loose in order to let the head come off so next thing to do is pull the valve covers off and I'll start pulling the Jakes and Rocket arms and ejectors out of the head I'll get the rocket arms and shafts pulled out of here next valve Bridges and the Jake studs I've got them double nutted here this one's double nutted [Music] that's a new injector harness in there and now the off cover base is going to come off only thing left in the head now is the cam shaft and the six injectors I'll pull the injectors out next sometimes these come out harder than this these are just barely hanging so no big deal it's not taking hardly anything to get them out otherwise I'd have a little better tool than this goofy piece of I'm using here these are all fairly new reman injectors too I've still got to come up here and get the cam retaining ring and adapter out of here so I got to get those three bolts out of this ring right here and then this ring will come off and then this adapter will come out all right here's that retaining ring and the adapter you can see some locktite residue down in that hole there and that's why I had so much trouble getting this cam gear off okay I've got 26 head BS to take out and then I can start lifting on the head [Applause] [Music] trying to see what I've got hanging if anything maybe some wires running under that thermostat housing the problem that I'm seeing now though is that I'm not going to have enough lift to get it to clear this handrail over here all right I got the handrail pulled off so it shouldn't be long now before I fall off here and break my back but I've got the head swung out ready to drop to the ground that should work out just fine and here's what it looks like number three is completely wiped out it's even worse than it looks on this camera those grooves are really deep that is what you call a bad cylinder I'll take a look at that cylinder head later I don't think there's going to be anything wrong with it the next thing to do is get in here and get the pan dropped off of it so I'll have to remove that oil drain line right there and I'll pull these two oil lines here those are going over to the remote Mount oil filter base which is right up there and I'm going to do everything I can to leave that line right there on there that's a cooler line I don't really want to dump the oil out of that system so I'm going to try to leave that one there but I'll get these other two out of the way I got the oil pan dropped off of it what a pain in the ass there's uh no block stiffener plate on the engines in these Hall trucks I'm guessing that's because these frames are so rigid that there's no need for it compared to like an on Highway truck engine where the frame is kind of springy and always moving around these are not is all right rods and pistons are coming out that's number two and number five right there and I just rolled number one and number six down to bottom dead center so I can get the impact on the rod bolts and as I'm going here I'm pulling the Piston cooling Jets out keeping them in order so when I get all six of them out I'll compare them there's number six there's number one okay I've got all six of them out here's what I [Music] found number three is bad already knew that had already seen it and it's real bad couldn't see number one or number six before because the Pistons were at the top but I can see them now and number one is also scuffed pretty bad it's not as bad as number three but it's pretty bad for the most part number two four five and six are all okay but I can tell that there's a little bit of light scuffing in all of them as far as what I thought I was going to find initially which is a bent piston cooling jet I did not find that here's all six of them in order here would be two and three three being the worst cylinder you can see I mean I'm not holding that perfect but it's not bent so all six of those are good they were not the problem another thing I noticed these are ipd pistons and the bearings were ipd so they used an ipd kit when they rebuilt this engine and I'm sure there will be a lot of people that'll say well there's your answer they Ed junk ipd parts and that's why it failed I tend not to think like that I've seen a lot of engines built using ipd parts that did not scuff liners and pistons and that did not fail prematurely so I think there was something more at play here than just the fact that this is ipd something else this is number one you can see the top ring and the middle ring are both broken of course the skirt is scuffed pretty bad this is like I said number one which is one of the holes that were scuffed this is number three right here this is the worst scuffed liner and I don't think the Rings are broke on this one of course we got the bad scuffing on the skirt the old control Rings all screwed up and the other two rings are stuck I don't really see anything too far out of the ordinary with these last four that are standing here I didn't find any broken rings on them or anything like that there is a little bit of light scuffing on all the skirts which is to be expected because I saw at least light scuff scuffing in all six holes I mean two of them were really bad but there was at least some scuffing in all six far as the bearings go most of these bearings are gone this one's here they don't look great they're a little bit grooved up not terrible but not great either that's probably one of the better ones right there too oh so as far as what caused this to happen there's too many different possible scenarios I'll never know for sure but obviously whatever it was affected the entire engine because there's at least some light damage across all six holes next thing I'm going to do is pull the liners out of the block but before I do that I would like to dump the rest of the coolant out of the block otherwise it's all going to come pouring out when I pull the first liner up I should be able to pull that little pipe plug right there out that's right beside the lower radiator hose and that'll get the majority of the rest of the coolant out of the block if you're not familiar with the 3406 it is a spacer plated engine the spacer plate is still here on the Block deck right now so that's why it looks like a counter board engine all right I've got all six liners pulled out of the block spacer plate is off and everything I'm seeing so far with the block looks all right always a little bit concerned about the condition of the lowers when you pull one of these apart the lower that smooth area down in there where the liner O-rings seal the liner O-rings are down here on the bottom of the liner those three seal against the smooth area right down in there and that's what SEALs the engine coolant away from the engine oil pan so if you don't have a good seal there you get coolant running down into the engine oil so that's everything that needs to be disassembled for what I'm doing here I'm going to jump down on the bottom now and take a look at some main bearings [Music] they're not terrible but they're just bad enough I'm going to go ahead and put a set of mains in I was hoping to get away with just throwing it together not doing main bearings but I'm going to go ahead and put a set in there and this number two main Journal has got some rust on it a little bit of corrosion damage I don't know what that's from I didn't have any water in the oil so I guess it's just from sitting but uh yeah that crank could use a polishing job that's just not going to happen right now but it's still smooth that won't really hurt anything it's just not ideal now I'm going to go roll the crankshaft around that bolt will push that bearing on around and out of there all right I'm looking for some new main bearings to roll in there that looks like main bearings bearing main yep why is there only five of those those look like bearings too 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 here's one of the new upper main bearings I'm going to roll that in there now and either number one or number two whichever one I can get a better camera shot on this is number two I've got the bearing stuffed in there as far as it would go by hand and I've got a bolt with a nut snugged all the way up the shank greased into the hole there bearing tab slot and the block is right up there bearing tab is right there for there's the new lower bearing and the number two main cap ready to go on all right caps on bolts are snugged up it's nice and even front to back on both sides I'm kind of a fanatic about getting those caps on as perfect as I can get them so next thing I'll do is torque the bolts uh go about 195 ft-lbs first starting with the bearing tab side preferably and then after the 195 actually I think the spec is like 190 plus or minus 10 I always set their inch to about 195 uh I'll come back and go another 120° after that and that's the final torque I don't know what that comes out to in foot PBS probably somewhere in the ballpark of 500 [Music] I'm back here at the number four main now there's one of the thrust bearings other one's still in there I'm not going to change them I just wanted to look at them make sure they look good and they look brand new so that's going to go right back in pop the crank back that way and then I'll roll this one out yeah looks looks fine no reason to change that for what I'm doing right here so we're right back in it goes and I can tell just by the way the crank slides back and forth here and how it feels that I don't have excessive Inplay it'll be just fine all right the mains are all done just want to make sure the crankshaft still rolls free now I've got to find some liners to put back in this block this is where things are going to get a little bit more interesting I've got this pile of liners here that I've kept out of core engines that I've torn down over the years 99% of them I just scrap but these are some of the ones I've kept that I thought were in better shape every once in a while I'll get a cord engine that's had a pretty fresh rebuild and then for whatever reason it ended up becoming a core and getting torn down for parts so I'm going to pick out six of these liners that I think are in halfway decent shape these are the seven I pulled out of there that I think are going to be the best to try to use I got an extra one just in case I find something wrong with one of them they're pretty Rusty on the outside but that's not really a big deal as long as I get them cleaned up good for the heat transfer between the liner and the coolant that's all that really matters as far as the inside crosshatch is pretty good it's good all the way to the top they're not really worn at all there is some light surface rust in some of them that's probably the worst of it right there so I've got quite a bit of cleanup work to do here but I think I can make this work filler band these lower O-rings off this right here is a counter boo shim for where they they counter board the block just a little bit and put a shim in it's not something that you find on all of them only on a block that's been counter board that's what those look like little WD40 and some 150 pretty happy with that that'll work trying to get ready to put the liners in so I'm cleaning up the chamford areas that guide the liner O-rings down into their BS luckily they're cleaning up pretty good so far I haven't run into any pitting or anything yet hopefully I won't I just hate doing stuff like this I mean an inframe right from the get-go is a piss poor way to rebuild an engine it's a Band-Aid at best I mean if you're going to rebuild an engine you pull it out of the machine or the truck or whatever it's in you tear it down to the Bear Block and you rebuild it okay I've got all the ceiling areas inside the liner boards cleaned up good now I just washed everything down with WD40 and blew it all out with compressed air number one looks just fine no problems there same thing with number two that looks like it's rough over there on that edge but it's not just the way the light's hting it number three my luck started to run out I was afraid it was going to and sure enough right there about the center of the screen you can see that little bit of pitting that rough area that's not too bad I could probably ignore that and get away with it but then when I get over here to number four it's even worse I can't ignore that right there if I do what'll happen as I put the liners in that rough area will tear those liner O-rings and torn O-rings don't seal so I'll end up with cool it in the oil pan number five is even worse than number four that right there is pretty bad that definitely will not work and then number number six is fine no problems with it so the right way to fix the damage in those lowers is to get the block to a machine shop they'll bore that lower out put an insert in and make it like brand new again that's uh obviously not an option here though that can't be done in frame at all so what I'm going to have to do is a trick these guys sometimes use when they're doing these Band-Aid inframe jobs uh I'm going to have to get some epoxy of some kind doesn't really matter what kind I think I've got some JB Weld so that's probably what I'll use take the epoxy smear it in the rough area fill it in good let it cure come back and sand it smooth and then that'll give me a smooth area for the liner O-rings to slide past and go in without being damaged and that'll get me by I've got the JB Weld smeared in these three lowers that need it that's number three here's number four and here's number five may have to put a little bit more in that one after it dries but I'm going to let that cure overnight come back in the morning sand it down and see what I've got that's looking real good here's number four that's looking real good too and here's number five like I said before I thought this one may need a little more JB Weld and it looks like it's going to so I'm going to smear some more in those rough areas and get them filled the rest of the way in and then while that's cured I'm going to throw some Liners in do a quick liner protrusion check I clean this old spacer plate gasket up this is not something you would normally reuse either but I'm going to reuse it so that's got to go on to check protrusion underneath the spacer plate and here comes the spacer plate go get my bolts now and bolt that down I've got the liner out of number five because that JB weld's still not all the way hard yet [Music] all right I'm checking liner protrusion so what I'm measuring is the difference in height between the spacer plate and the liner flange right next to it where the firing and the head gaskets going to seat so I think I'm pretty well zeroed there it's hard to tell from where I'm at I'm way back here and the camera's in the way I'm going to slide from the spacer plate to the liner flange and it looks like it went from zero to about 4,000 yeah a little over three three and a half so that one's right there around the three and 1/2 I'm going to say what I'll do is measure each liner about each 90 all the way around in four spots okay I just finished checking protrusion I had a couple measurements about 2 and 1 half th000 I had had a couple of about 4,000 and then I had a bunch of three and three and 1 half thousand so I'm within a thousandth and a half across the entire engine which is surprisingly good considering I've got a bunch of used parts here and just an inframe block that hasn't been decked or anything that's about as close as you can hope to be even with all brand new parts really so that's well with ins spec plenty good enough I won't have any problems with that I'm going to start putting the liners in for real now here's this number five lower after after the second dose of JB Weld and after I sanded it down the second time it's still not 100% perfect but it's way better than it was just feels smooth there now I can't F anything with my fingers so that's plenty good enough to guide those lower O-rings down into that board with no damage and that's all it needs to do just about got everything rounded up to start putting Liners in now I've got six sets of new ipd liner O-rings here clean engine oil ready to go for the filler bands uh silicone lubricant for the lower o rings got a clean block of wood clean towel and I need to grab my hammer it should be pretty much ready to go for got all six liners installed so uh time for some rods and pistons now I guess let's see let just put this in here a good place for that pretty good shot this is going to get a little more interesting right here I'm going to put used rods pistons and piston rings back in this thing too so these are the rods and pistons that I pulled out of it and these are a 180 7352 Crown which I'm real familiar with this Crown this is a standard High horsepower 1lw 2ws 6nz on Highway truck engine Crown 16 to1 compression ratio uh however this truck calls for a 16 and a/4 to one compression ratio Crown so what that means is that this crown that they had in there was not the correct one for this truck now that's not the reason the engine failed the way that it did uh being just slightly lower in compression wouldn't have really caused any problems at all and they were using the correct oil jet for this piston which is the same oil jet as the Piston that's supposed to be in there calls for too but anyway um piston that the truck calls for is not as common it's more obscure and I don't really have any of them on hand used uh I've got one option and I'll show you what it is so these crowns are the correct crown for the truck the only problem with using these is that they're pretty high houred and I don't know what kind of shape they're going to be in [Music] all right here's this first one all cleaned up I just pressure washed it real good and then I took a wire wheel around the top and around the outer edge all the way around and I'm not seeing anything here that's going to prevent me from using this looks pretty good to me I can still see the Machining marks and all the outer parts of the Ring lands here camera probably won't pick it up but I can see them they're not worn they're not scuffed I'll show you the wear pattern in the bushing kind of a crazy wear pattern but they're not worn bad at all so as long as the rest of them come out about like this one I'm going to go ahead and use them this a 136 1560 Crown well there's six used piston crowns cleaned up and ready to go they all look just as good as that first one if not a little bit better some of them did anyway so I'm going to use them there's nothing wrong with them I got to have six skirts now which I'll probably some of these the skirts are not really a big deal they don't have to be absolutely perfect you just don't want any that are scuffed bad or anything like that so I'll get six of those cleaned up if I need any different ones I've got a whole bunch of those skirts over there and then I'll clean up six rods and pins which I may just use these right here there's nothing wrong with any of these the pins don't really wear at all and the bushings and all these rods are fine so let me uh keep cleaning stuff up here and uh before long I'll have a complete compl set of rods and [Applause] pistons okay I've got all six rods piston crowns skirts pins retainers oil control rings and intermediate rings cleaned up and ready to go now I just used the oil control rings and intermediate rings that came off of these Pistons they cleaned up real good and seem to be just fine so the only thing I'm missing now is some rod bearings and top Rings here's a few things that uh maybe wor talking about I don't know this is a 13375 37 Crown I got curious uh what's the difference between these two crowns they're both 16 and a/4 to one so I wanted to compare them and see if I could find anything and I have I'm going to measure the diameter of both these Pistons above the top ring l so on this one get about 5336 5337 and then over here on this truck engine Crown same measurement it measures about 5379 so that's 40 a little over 40,000 that this truck engine Crown is bigger above the top ring land compared to this Hall truck piston 40,000 is quite a bit and I do have this clean where I'm taking that measurement I don't have the very top clean it's got some buildup on it I think from burning coolant but where I'm taking that measurement is clean and then the only other difference that I can find between these two Pistons here in the oil controller ining Grove and this truck engine piston there are four holes drilled in it one at every 90 and then here in the hall truck piston there aren't any at all as far as the Rings go this is one of the top rings out of the hall truck Pistons that I'm putting in here and I'm not going to be able to really show this on camera in any real capacity but uh these Rings right out here on the very Outer Edge have a flare kind of like that where they're worn a little bit so I'm going to try to find some top rings that are not quite as worn as these I mean these would run again wouldn't really be a problem but I've got some that are better than that so I'll get some um as far as the oil control rings and intermediate Rings they cleaned up pretty much what I would call amazingly well as far as I know these rings have 18,000 hours on them I don't have any way to verify that that's correct but the best I can tell that's the case could have sworn I had a set of new rod bearings here somewhere but I've looked everywhere I cannot find them so I went over there and pulled these out these are 100% used but I'm going to run them the ones in this top row I think are in better shape so I'm going to run those in the tops of the rods and then I'll run these in this bottom row in the bottoms uh I've measured a bunch of this stuff out off camera and it actually isn't in that bad a shape I mean none of it measures up brand new but it's not excessively worn either wish this fly would get the hell out of here yeah he's not having a very good day now took care of that dumb bastard this is a lot easier when I can get my head in there and see what I'm doing on the back side I got this tripod right in the way is [Music] [Music] [Music] for [Music] [Music] for [Music] all right all six rods and pistons are in I'm going to put the oil jets in now I've got a little tiny piece of copper wire here and what I'll do is just run it down in each one of these tubes see that coming through there and verify that they're clear cuz it is possible to get a piece of silicone stuck in one of these and uh block the flow of oil through it and like I said earlier in the video I've already verified that none of those are bent [Music] all right I'm going to get this cylinder head cleaned up and ready to go back on now I don't see any problems with it at all everything looks real good to me I don't see any cracks between valves which is pretty common in an on Highway 3406 CER c-15 truck engine you'll hardly ever pull one of those off without finding some cracks between valve somewhere but in my experience that's not nearly as common in these machinery and Industrial application engines just due to the difference in the application and the way that they run the on Highway engines by far seem to be the hardest on cylinder heads look at all the locktite they had in between the cam and the cam gear all right I got the turbo pulled off and the exhaust manifold Center divider is in real good shape which is a good thing you kind of want to keep an eye on those both on the exhaust manifold and on the turbo turbine housing those Center dividers tend to warp and crack and everything else over time and when they get in bad shape it will cost you some efficiency but that right there looks real good exhaust manifolds all off all the gaskets look fine this one wasn't blown out it just had some little pieces coming off the edge I've got some new gaskets that I'm putting on here regardless so get these pulled off of here [Music] [Applause] help okay I've got everything blown down dried off and oiled up takes a lot longer to dry it off than it does to wash it and then I ran a flat knife sharpening stone across here I'll do that with these a lot of times to help clean them up those swirl marks you see are from the last time it was milled I didn't do that with that stone got all that cleaned off the end there it looks all right it's not great but it'll run again this right here is the worst damage I'm seeing there's a couple little pits right there in that lobe going to try to smooth those up just a little bit not really much you can do about it but I just don't want there to be any High areas I don't think there are but [Music] all right I've got that better than it was when I started it's not perfect but it's never going to be again I'm looking at some of these cam bearings before I put the cam shaft back in the head and some of these are leaving a little bit to be desired to say the least this one's got a pretty good gouge in it right there running across it and that's mostly all just from people pulling cams out and putting cams in this head not being careful enough you can remove install these cams without the tool successfully without doing damage like that it just takes time it's tedious and you just got to be really careful of course most of these guys aren't they don't care it's not theirs so they just Ram them in and out but I'm going to take some 2,000 grits lick them up just a little bit call it good the right thing to do would be to put cam bearings in it but obviously I'm not going to do that in this situation cam shaft's going back in the head I'm going to go ahead and put the exhaust manifold on it now got all these inserts stuck back in here and I've got all the hardware cleaned up new gaskets all right I've got all the spacers and washers and nuts on just fingertight and the position of the manifold on the studs is good it's got just a little bit of room to float back and forth from left to right that's the way you want it you don't want it tied up against any of the studs I did notice when I got the soot cleaned out of this thing there's a pretty good size crack going from this side to this side can't really see it from that side if this was was a real rebuild where I was spending real money I'd want to change that but for what I'm doing here that'll be fine it'll run for quite a while longer before that gets much worse I've got a little bit of antics on all the nuts and I'm torquing them up to about 30 in sequence I'm right here right now all right I've got the head hoisted up here and I'm getting ready to start cleaning up the head bolt holes in the block I wasn't going to do that I thought they were good enough but I changed my mind so this is what I like to use for that that's just a headbolt with a channel ground in it with a grinding wheel you got to grind that channel in there you got to give that someplace to go it's got to have somewhere to go I've tried various different Taps and stuff over the years and they always seem to want to take too much material out of the block so this is what I've always come back too okay I've got the headbolt holes cleaned out and I've got the block deck and the cylinders and everything cleaned up as good as I can none of it's as clean as I want it to be but it never will be putting a real light film of anerobic seiling around all these little drain back holes these can be problematic especially when you don't have freshly machined services like I don't here and normally I'm no fan of sealants where sealants aren't supposed to be but this is one exception that I'll make and Cat's new head gasket design for these engines has got little funnel like deals that drop down at each one of these holes to solve that problem but I'm going to be using an old ipd head gasket that's what I've got on hand so I won't have those funnels here here's one of them I found over here while I'm here I need a head gasket ready for the spacer plate now got some new coolant seals here it's missing the front Dow pin that goes right there I don't know what that's all about it was never there it wasn't there when I took the engine apart so I guess they broke it or lost it last time they had this thing apart and just put it back together without it but I'll run over and grab one okay I'm just noticing this Dow pin deal and kind of sitting here studying it and I thought something wasn't adding up didn't look right to me they didn't lose the front Dow pin they lost the rear di pin this right here this is not the rear Dow pin this is the front Dow pin you shouldn't be able to remove Dow pins like that they're supposed to fit really tight so I'll have to go get a hammer and tap that in carefully that's the front Dow pin so I need to go get a rear Dow pin which is a solid pin for that hole and it'll actually fit back there tight got a dow pin here I had to go pull one out of a block and it's not the greatest it's got a little wear on top here but the big thing with these is you want to make sure they're absolutely straight great and that one is you get one of these that's been at all you will fight and fight and fight and you never will get the head to go on okay this is definitely not ideal you want to do this without anything on the Block but I've already got all this put together now so it's going in good well now that I've got the dowal pins fixed I think I'm finally ready to put the cylinder head on it all right I've got the head swung over in here guide studs are in and this is probably the last piece of video there's going to be till after the head sitting down on the Block okay one more piece of video I've got it pretty close right here I had to abandon the studs there was just no way it was going to work because I had to get underneath this timing sensor I didn't really want to pull all that out of there so it's still got to go forward just a little bit which is not easy to do I've got to pull this whole piece of forward by getting on the ground and yanking on those ropes but just needs about 2 in forward and then I think I can ease it down all right well it's there it didn't go bad but it didn't go what I would call great either this would have been a real good one to have had two people on it was pretty tough by myself but I'm sure it's fine I didn't have to shift it probably more than a/4 inch after I set it down to get it to go ahead and fall on the Dows I just hate it when you can't drop it straight down on them it's definitely seated all the way down on the Dows so it's good to go I've got the headbolts all cleaned up so I'm going to lube those up stick them in the holes run them down torque them to initial torque and that's probably as far as I'm going to go today I've just about had enough of this you put the Lube on the [Music] bolt you smear it around you take the bolt stick it in a hole and you spin it very exciting initial torque 200 ft-lbs through the whole sequence come back run through it again at 330 come back again run through it at 330 one more time then you're done went just a little past 330 on that one went to about 340 which is fine that's still in Spec and this is just the second sequence anyway still got to go back over it one more time after this all right I've got the cylinder head all torqued down and ready to go go next thing I want to do is get the oil pan back on it but I've got to get an oil pump on it first of course so I went over and grabbed this pump this is the one I pulled off the engine and I noticed that this is a 4N 0733 pump mostly because they've got it written on the bottom right there and I know from experience the 4N 0733 crosses to the ZR 9448 reman number and I also know that this engine that I'm working on in this Hall truck here does not take the zero r 9448 it's supposed to have a z r 9449 now with that being said the only difference between those two pumps is this spring retainer right here I mean I guess why would you put the right oil pump on when you can put the wrong one on I don't know I don't get it it's like some of these guys they're they're determined to screw up as much as they possibly can I just I don't understand what's going on out here but anyway I'm going to pull this thing apart pull the gears out of it inspect the gears and the pump housing make sure everything's in good shape and if it is I'll throw it right back together and put it on the engine when I get it apart I'll show how these things work they're real simple [Music] I'm going to get one of those spring retainers right now I just jumped on CIS and looked up the number I'm looking for a 9y 1792 so let's see what we got here I got a handful of these pumps that's what I'm looking for here's the difference between the two so this is the one that's supposed to be on it and that's the one that was on it this one's between a/4 and a half in shorter little better way to look at that boy that wasn't very smart that [Applause] I don't really want to lose the timing on these gears the reason I said that about the gears and the timing is not because this pump is timed I mean it's just a gear pump I just want to keep the same gear teeth running with the same gear teeth but in this case I don't think it's going to matter this pump is showing just enough wear that I'm going to do something different here I mean it's not terrible but it's not nearly as good as it could be either so I've got a pile of these over there I'm going to find one that's in better shape than that into this shaft's pretty chewed up too of course the bushing Port is the same way this is a good opportunity to show how these pumps work though so I've got the gears put back in this is just a simple gear pump pretty much everybody knows how those work so you've got the driven shaft here that's being driven off the crankshaft by that gear right there so these gears would be turning like this this is the suction side of the pump this is the discharge side of the pump and this is all one big chamber in here that goes straight over into here so hang on let me make this thing Focus all right so these would be turning like this the oil is coming in it's getting in between the Gear teeth here it's being pulled around the outer edge in between the Gear teeth and the outer edge of the pump housing on the top same thing on the bottom this would be going like this come on so it's pulling the oil in in between the Gear teeth forcing it around the outer edge and over to this side so that's how the flow was made from the suction side and forced over to the discharge side now there's one more thing to these pumps they're just a simple gear pump like I said but there's a valve here this is the plunger for the valve it goes down in this board right here so that's down in there before I put that in there though I'm going to pull these gears back out and show this passage I don't care about the timing anymore because I'm not using this pump anyway all right see that hole right there well that's all connected to the discharge side this whole open area in here is all connected there's a passage that runs underneath from this hole right here underneath all this metal right here under my finger and over to this port so here's the plunger that's solid on the bottom botom it's down in this boore and then there's a spring and then the spring retainer that holds that on and puts pressure on the spring so you can see that the spring is pushing on the plunger and trying to force the plunger closed so what that means is whatever pressure is on the discharge side of the pump is also on the end of this plunger on the the bottom end the end that's down in the hole and that's trying to push that plunger back up against the spring pressure all right it's the next day from that video clip you just watched I had to quit but I think I remember where I was at so as this plunger comes up in the board against the spring pressure that's exposing those holes down there in the end of the plunger just like that and as those holes become exposed that allows some of the flow from the discharge side of the pump to flow back through through the pass and out through those holes so what that's doing is putting that flow directly back into the suction side of the pump okay so now with all that out of the way the ZR 9449 oil pump with its shorter spring retainer puts more spring pressure on top of the plunger which means the plunger is harder to lift which means that the engine will have to build more oil pressure before the plunger will lift which in turn means that with the z r 9449 pump the engine will be able to produce a higher maximum oil pressure than it will with the z r 9448 pump and its longer spring retainer this is the second pump I pulled out of my pile over there the first one I wasn't happy with either but this one's looking better I'm going to go with it definitely not brand new but it's not bad plenty good enough to run for quite a while longer all right I got it all ready to go 9y 1792 got a newer style pump housing here got this flat area on top but that's insignificant internally same as the other one takes the same gears the same spring same plunger same everything got the pressure tube and the suction tube cleaned up and ready to go on so I'm going to get all this bolted on the Block now [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] wool pans ready to go on all right I got the pan on all the bolts are in and they're all torqued twice and I'm certain that that was the most piss poor pan installation I've ever done but I don't know what you can do about it inframe is a damn joke you can always do a better job out of frame than you can inframe I don't care how good you are but this is one of those deals where the inframe was the only thing that made any sense so it is what it is I don't know who did this probably the same people that put the wrong pistons in the engine and the wrong oel pump on and glued the cam gear to the cam shaft and handful of other little stuff I found but not only did they do all that they also decided that it was going to be a real good idea to go ahead and Plum in a second fuel filter base it's not even supposed to be there so that one up there is correct it's supposed to be remote mounted like that this one should not even exist on this engine engine so I have no idea why they thought they needed to put that on there and I wasn't going to worry about it at first I mean it was working fine but the more I think about it seems a little excessive to push fuel through two two Micron filters and it's never going to be any easier to fix than what it is right now well I found the problem figured out why it scuffed those liners the way it did this is probably the most important part of this whole video right here I was in here working on getting this extra fuel filter base pulled off of here and getting all these fuel lines cleaned up where they had made a mess of everything had it all screwed up put the wiring harness back up there kind of where it goes it's not done yet and then I went to put the intake elbow back on the cylinder head and when I did this is what I found that's a wide open hole going right into the intake elbow so that's 100% for sure the reason the engine failed and scuffed those liners the way it did there's no doubt in my mind it would have just been sitting there sucking dirt in anytime it was sitting around idling waiting to get loaded or whatever and these trucks do a lot of that the reason I'm just now noticing that when I pulled that elbow off I did it from the top side and I just laid it up in there somewhere and that's all I ever did with it and I know for sure that it was like that when I started this that I didn't take something out of there because I know why that hole's there and I know what used to be in it normally these have a ether injection system on them so there's a bracket back here behind the cylinder head that holds an ether canister there's a plastic line that runs up to a fitting on that elbow and when you push a button in the cabin injects ether into the elbow well they' removed The Ether injection system at some point in the past before I ever bought the truck but when they did that they never came back and put a plug in that hole here's another one of these trucks and there's that ether injection system I was just talking about and here's another one of these trucks that I've got a better view of the intake elbow on than the other one and if you look right there you can see the little plastic line for The Ether and the fitting that came out of that hole well it just keeps getting better I'm barely any further along than I was a few minutes ago and I just realized that I don't remember pulling the plug out of that hole right there I would have had no reason to pull the plug out of that hole right there and I don't have a plug that fits that hole in any of my parts piles from this engine so I thought all right well let me make sure so I went back to the footage where I had just pulled the head off and I had it hanging over there beside the machine zoomed in on it and sure enough that's exactly how the head came off there never was a plug in it I could even see some dirt packed in the hole there so not only did they leave that plug out and it was sucking dirt right there but they left that one out and it was sucking dirt right there too it never had a chance right here we've got a pipe thread plug that they've rammed into an overing hole so now that's junk got to change this out for the one that they had over there that wasn't even supposed to be there to begin with at least they gave me one I guess the more I look the more I find I guess I need to quit looking I guess they must have put this filter on here with like a 12T breaker bar or something I finally got it to move though all right none of this was really video worthy but here's where I'm at I've got the ECM back on it I've got the one fuel filter base that's supposed to be here plumbed in correctly got all the sensors in and plugged in their correct locations I've got all the holes in the cylinder head plugged which I mean that should be a real good deal it won't be sucking dirt anymore or have massive boost leaks so that should be nice um timing pin is in the flywheel which is just that bolt right there that's pin in number one and number six at top dead center and I'll come back through here later and tidy a bunch of this up and zip tie stuff up where it's not hanging loose and rubbing and whatnot but it's all here and all back together and all right now so the next thing I want to do is get the front gear trained back together which means I've got to get the cam gear put back together I've got it over there torn apart on the bench right now before I start on the cam gear here's a quick overview on the fuel flow in this setup this is the fuel tank right here comes out of the fuel tank through that fitting right there comes up through this suction line runs into this filtered head this is the fuel water separator filter comes out of that filter head right there runs down through this line underneath the engine and over to the other side and then of course fuel has to return to the tank too so that line down there beside this one is this line which is the return line it puts the fuel back into the tank right there okay I'm over on the other side of the truck now pretty hard to video this but I'll do the best I can so once the suction line or the supply line gets to this side the first thing it does is goes into the fuel transfer pump which is right there it's going to go through the pump it's going to come out of the pump through that line right there which comes around and runs up to this filter base right here through this line it's going to go through the two micron filter which obviously is not there right now it's going to come out of that filter base right here come through this line it drops down and runs back and runs into the ECM right there it's going to go through the ECM to cool the ECM down comes out of the ECM right there through that fitting comes up through this hose up over the top of the intake elbow and then up over the top of the head right there this is that lines that comes up over the top of the head goes into that fitting right there drops down and goes into the cylinder head where it comes through the head supplies all six injectors with fuel and then it comes out of the back of the head right here so there's that line as it comes out of the back of the cylinder head comes through here I've got it routed up over the intake elbow comes down through here and runs back to that fuel filter base when it gets back to the fuel filter base runs through here there's a valve in here goes through the valve comes out right there drops down through this line runs underneath the engine and back over to the other side and into the tank okay here's the two timing gears that I've got off the [Music] engine all right inner cam ceiling ring is going in got to line the bolt holes up it'll go in there like that that's what that looks like next is the cam adapter it's got a dowal in it that has to line up and go into the hole in the cam like that and then next is this retaining ring goes on there like that and then the bolts get locked tight they go in like that and hold everything together three of them all right I've got the camg on and torque to spec which is 180 plus or minus 30 foot- lb I usually go about 190 no lock tight on those bolts unless you're an idiot if you're an idiot go ahead and put it on there and I don't torque Mark any of my bolts when I'm working on my own stuff I don't have to worry about protecting me from me I'll do that if I'm working on something that doesn't belong to me so they can't come back and say I didn't torque something but no big deal uh like everything else the last guys did on this engine this is wrong to the backlash there is way too loose so I'm going to have to adjust that that's the adjust bidler gear it adjust back and forth to uh set the backlash there that needs to be tightened up up and then obviously the other thing I've got to worry about is getting the engine in time which it's not right now that's the timing dot right there and that's the mark right there I really wasn't wanting to have to mess with backlash but I'm going to that's just too much I mean it would run but that's too much so I've got to loosen all those nuts up change that setting on that uh stub shaft it kind of rolls back and forth tightens up going one way loosens going the other and then snug the nuts back up retorque them with new locktite got the backlash adjusted where I'm happy with it that's way better and I rolled the camera around just a little more I think I yeah it's hard to tell from where my head's at I'm pretty sure I'm one to off that dot needs to move over one to so see if I can do this All onehanded now I've got to go this way by a tooth that's too much phone's giving me some kind of all right now this back in here it's not going to go yet cuz we're not lined up which way do I need to go here let's go like that and see what we got looks better from here but I'm not sure it is let me uh get my head down in there all right yes it is in time now you just got to make sure that the tooth with the dot is the one that's the closest to the mark on the front cover I'm all done in here the front gear trains all back together ready to go peanut covers on I've got this o line on that goes from the pan over to the drain valve right there and I've got the oil filter base back in here that's a pain in the ass trying to get that back on and get those lines hooked to it took me probably half an hour but it's all ready to go now I've got a new stack here and a flapper for it I'm going to go ahead and put the injectors in now and then I'll put the valve cover base on right after that this is one of the injectors I pulled out of the engine they all look just like this one look look like some pretty fresh cat remand you can see the 10955 number there that's a cat remand number for what I'd call a 55 injector so this is a 2000 EPA nonroad emission standard engine which is why they could use a 55 here to make 427 horsepower I think is all it is if this were an onh Highway engine they wouldn't have been able to do that they would have used a uh lower flowing injector with a longer pulse width but anyway nobody cares about all that I could elaborate further but uh got some new injector O-rings here I'm going to start sticking those on the injectors and putting the injectors in the head [Music] [Applause] valve Bridges I kept all these internal parts on this table covered up the whole time so they're still clean there's no dirt on them just old oil which is no big deal not going to clean any of this up before I put it back on just going to throw it on and go that'll be plenty good for what I'm doing right here if this was a real rebuild obviously that would be different I put these studs in for the Jake I forgot about those little bit of Rusty gunky on here from the truck sitting out in the lot for two years not being used all right so I've got all the rocker arms and Jake housings on here now I've got to get them boled down of course I've got things I've got to fix that they've screwed up here that's the wrong washer these two in the middle are correct wrong one down there on the end so I've got to go round up some of those correct washers you don't want to just use anything you got because these need to be a good hard washer the correct one that's very important and then uh the other thing is they should have changed these bolts out for the uh hang on let me pull the part number out of my tiny little brain uh 257 2122 bolts you need nine of them can't run it in the third hole back that's the O Supply hole but the other three in each housing need to be updated you can see the difference between the two the old bolts neck down right here for oil supply but you only need that oil supply and the third hole back on each housing so they did away with those and all but the third hole started using these heavier shanked bolts which torqu Tighter and that helps to keep the rocker shaft from working in the cylinder head and wearing the cylinder head in the rocker shaft those bolts over there are sufficient as long as they're properly torqued and you keep an eye on them but most of the time that doesn't happen so replacing three of those with these pretty much solves that problem I'll go about 80 to 80 5 on the small bolt 110 to 115 on the three bigger bolts and then 80 to 85 on this nut the jake brake specs say 8080 and 110 got the top end all together and I'm running the overhead now I'm trying to roll through this pretty quick all right I've got the first half of the overhead run and I'm rolling the engine around around 360° which will give me 180° on the cam so that I can run the other half the overhead I don't know how many times I've been up and down these steps but it's been a lot all right I've got all the valves adjusted the Jakes are adjusted and the injectors are adjusted so that's all done need to get some oil in it now and get some valve covers put on it or at least a couple of them I just went over to the other shop and grabbed a oil filter and a fuel filter and 10 gallons of oil cooling's back in I've got the back batteries off of it I had them out there on another machine this in here has seen better days I'm going to clean this up a little bit before I put the batteries back in [Music] f [Music] [Music] [Applause] piece of well I think I sucked half the truck up in the vacuum cleaner but that looks a l a lot better there ain't much left of it hopefully the batteries don't fall through and hit the ground all right I've got the uh batteries in and hooked up good enough for now it's a 24volt system obviously all right I guess about the only things left to do here are to get the turbo on it the exhaust pipe from the turbo back to this exhaust elbow couple pieces of intake pipe in and then I can start priming the fuel system and get it fired up these 9ap prefix engines run a great big 184 AR exhaust housing non was gated about a 78 mm compressor wheel best I can tell from just a quick rough measurement so quite a bit different turbo than what you'll find on an on highway 3406e this is a high load high RPM application and that's what this turbo is sized to do it's pretty lazy until you get up there about 17 to 18800 RPM with some load on it and then it comes alive from there all right I've got the air intake piping all back together now I've got the exhaust together back to the Elbow back here I'm leaving this valve cover off so I can verify that the cylinder head's getting oil to it when it starts up got fuel to the back of the cylinder head you should have just seen it squirting out of that fitting there while I was pumping the hand primer so I'm going to put that fuel line back on go Prime on it just a little bit more start cranking on it and get it fired up here we go [Applause] [Music] [Music] well I guess I'm pretty happy with that not bad for a bunch of used junk runs good sounds good it's got good oil pressure no blow by way way better than what I had when I started and I only spent about $300 on stuff I didn't already have but it's not over yet I've still got to get the Jake working got to program the injector trim coat I want to check all the sensor readings make sure they're reading correctly and making sense and I'll probably go ahead and probe it and calibrate the timing too while it's here I might as well and all that's fine and good but until I get the truck over there and get it loaded which puts it up there about 149 to 150,000 lb is what it's rated for and I start climbing some 20% grades with it I won't really know what I've got that'll be the real test all right I'm programming injector trim coats here I wrote them down on this piece of cardboard when I put them in on number three that's a 2425 24 25 Number Four 4530 4 five 3 Z as far as the Jake breaks go it doesn't seem to be a problem with the lever in the cab it's off now there's one there's two there's three [Music] pulling this plug out of the Tim and probe hole yeah you're not going to be able to see in there but the crankshaft is right in there and there's a machine spot on the counter weight on the crank I'll just go show you a crank this is not the ideal thing to show this but all my good cranks are in there wrapped in plastic from the machine shop and you can't see anything so this will work this is a 3406c crank right here on top normally there'd be a drive gear up here but it's pulled off the second counterweight back they machine smooth where normally it's a rough cast finish like that one this one is machine smooth and they also machine a Groove into it down here you can see the groove right there and when you push the probe into the block into that hole that I just pulled the plug out of you're pushing the probe right up against this smooth counterweight and then you p pull it back about a millimeter and as the crankshaft whirls around in there and this groove passes the end of that probe it generates a signal that goes to the ECM and gives the ECM an exact timing calibration reference point what you're supposed to do to install the probe correctly is pin the engine number one and number six at top dead center doesn't matter which one's on compression and then roll it backwards against the direction of normal Rotation by 60° here's the probe this adapter threads into the block and then the probe slides back and forth in it when you get it where you want it you tighten this nut down and that'll hold it in place all right the timing calibration is done I've got the probe back out of the block and that's the cable that goes with it so I've got everything done to the the engine now that I wanted to do other than getting the jake brakes working that's next let me back up to before I did all this before I took the engine apart I knew that I had a jake brake problem I knew that I only had one out of the three housings that were working and I also knew that it was the centered housing that was the one that was working I knew that because on position one on the Jake switch I had one housing working which was normal that would be the center housing on position two I had nothing which should be the front and the rear housing and then on position three I had only one out of the three housings again which obviously that was the center housing working again so now that I've took the engine apart and put it back together I did not keep track of which Jake housings went where because it really doesn't matter I kept the rocker arms and rocker shafts right where they came from the rest of it I didn't keep track of so it's obviously gone back together in a different order than it came apart in which is fine I'm actually glad it did because now I still only have one out of the three housings that's working but it's moved it's not the center housing that's working now so that tells me that it's not or more than likely not an electrical issue like I initially thought it was going to be so with all that being said I'm going to get in there and fire it up and I'm going to come back up here I'm going to manually actuate each one of these solenoids and I'm going to see what happens and that'll tell me where I need to go next [Applause] all right so now I know for almost 100% sure that it's the rear housee in that's working with the switch in the cab and that it's the front two that are not I also know that the wiring to the center housing should be good it shouldn't be an electrical issue that's keeping it from working because that was the one that was working before I did the rebuild and switch these housings all around so with that knowledge in mind the next most common sense thing to do especially since I have some of these solenoids here is to change this one out and this one out come back and see what it does then more than likely that'll fix it right here is what I'm looking for 24 volt there's the new US solenoids with new seals on them ready to go okay those are in so now same thing again go back fire it up come up here push the button on top of both of them and make sure they work [Applause] [Applause] well I gained a little bit but not very much this front housing did start doing something at least but it's not right I think it's only working on one of the two cylinders you could probably tell in that last clip that that one is is not like this one back here that one there is good to go and the center one is still not doing anything at all so I'm going to have to tear into both of these and see what's going on inside of them all right I've got both of these Jake brake housings torn down now and I found the problem with both of them pretty quickly this is number two the one that was in the center that wasn't doing anything at all it had a stuck control valve which is that thing right there I got it freed up pretty easily it wasn't stuck bad but it was stuck and then it still has a master piston stuck in this board right here and then same thing over here this is number one the one that was partially working uh didn't have any stuck control valves but it does have a stuck Master piston just like the other one see that one's out of there that's the master piston and that one's stuck in the boore won't be any problem I've rebuilt a ton of these 340 housings and I've dealt with a whole bunch of them with moisture damage EX for way worse than this so I'll get them fixed I guess both the stuck mastered Pistons out of both housings they were stuck bad worse than I thought they were going to be based on what they looked like I'm really really tired of talking to this camera had to destroy both Pistons to get them out which is fine because I was able to save the housings which is the important part uh pressure washer wouldn't get either one of them normally it will but in this case it wouldn't I started drilling on this one just a little bit that loosened it up enough that I could blow it out of there with compressed air this one I started to tap for A4 20 bolt ended up breaking the end of the tap off in the Piston when I was screwing the tap back out so that left me with no choice but to go to plan C which is a torch I heated that up cherry red quenched it with water and then I blew it out of there with compressed air too so I'll go over there and get some good used Master Pistons to replace the two that I destroyed here get these housings back together and get them back on the truck I got them put back on let's t test them out make sure they work [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] that front housing is still only working on one cylinder I don't know what the deal with it is now I'm going to swap the solenoid out first make sure it's not a bad solenoid it's got used control valves in it too I can swap those out without pulling the housing off if I need to this middle one is good to go now they act kind of funny when you first turn them on after you've had them apart they got to get all the air purged out of them that's normal it came around and started acting right the front one never did all right there's another different Ed solenoid let's try it [Applause] well that's what I thought it didn't change anything I couldn't come up with any reason why a bad solenoid could possibly make half the housing work and the other half not that really wouldn't have made any sense just want to start there cuz they're fast and easy to change but guess I'll swap the control valves out now and see what I get come on here we go [Applause] [Applause] all right there we go finally got her working right now all I got to do is check and make sure it works electrically with the switch in the cab [Music] [Music] [Music] all right all good the engine is finally completely ready to go sh [Music] [Applause] it was a waste of time cleaning this tire up I got to dig into this piece of metal right here and it goes all the way through so that have to be patched and it's just not worth it that Tire's got all kinds of metal and stuff in it it came off a landfill truck that truck right there actually and it's just full of so I'm going to call that one junk and I guess that puts me down to having just one halfway decent junk Tire left which is that one right there so that one will go on right there and then whatever else is on the truck is just what it's going to be there I'm trying to run this junk rubber out and get whatever I can out of it I've got one good set of rubber for these 40 ton trucks and it's already over there on my other truck I've got pretty serious doubts that this tire is going to hold up very many loads but I don't have any other options I mean I don't have anything else here that's any better than this so this is what it's going to have on it until it blows out [Applause] [Music] I e [Music] all right I'm going to get a load of tops we way down there and then I'll have to pull up this hill which is probably uh I don't know 10 or 12% it's not real bad and then I've got to haul down through a bottom and back up the other side [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] all right well came up the first till there with no trouble at all it's got a little bit of blow by which is to be expected used Rings used liners even on a new engine with brand new parts you'd see some blow by being a brand new engine that'll improve some as the engine wears in and the ring seat up so now I've got a drop off in this bottom and this hill right here is quite a bit steeper than the one I just climbed probably looks flat on the camera but it's not it's about a 20% all the way to the bottom from where I'm standing right here [Music] [Music] [Applause] all right now I'm coming back up out of the bottom this is probably over 20% right here here it is when you map it out and measure the distance anyway [Music] [Laughter] [Music] hadn't spun any bearings yet so think I'm all right I sure hope that parking brake is good because if it's not you're fixing to see a show all right from here the rest of the way to the back it's only like 4 to 8% just varies and it's like I don't know it's another three qus of a mile back there or so but it's no big deal from here to there and go [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] well I guess I'm pretty happy with that overall that cheap engine job will get me the rest of the life out of that truck I don't figure it'll last too much longer it'll be something else torque converter transmission who knows it's always something but I'll run it till it don't run no more guess that's all I got for this one thanks for watching and I'll see you next time

Channel: KT3406E

Views: 140,661

Keywords: kt3406, caterpillar, cat 3406, 3406, 3406b, d400, d400e, diesel, overhaul, c15, c-15, c16, c-16, c18, c-18, 3408, cummins, detroit diesel, caterpillar equipment, articulated

Id: fUp5O6c7e8c

Length: 129min 52sec (7792 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 14 2024