Everything Was Perfect Until It Wasn’t. Mysterious Eclipse GSX Engine Failure On Dyno Day! HOW?

I just got word that the tuning twins have an opening this week to tune my Eclipse GSX and Cannonball garage has an opening on their dyo which can only mean one thing I have to do everything in my power to get this car ready well to make some big Power now in the last Eclipse video I finished up the fuel system with larger injectors an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and flex fuel sensor which should work great with the Hellcat fuel pump I put in the tank and I also fitted the car with much larger CTSV brake calipers using Terminator Mustang Cobra rotors and I topped it all off with adjustable coil overs and some Sweet anky Wheels now my plan was to roll the fenders and quarters adjust camber space out the rear wheels and fit some well kind of crusty evo 8 brake calipers in the rear but since our priority is getting this thing ready for the dyno we have some more engine work to get to yeah it's missing a stud here some you guys have pointed that out we got a lot to do under the hood to make sure we don't blow up on the dyo I don't even know why I am jinxing myself two days before our Dino session with the term blow up I'm going to knock on some wood I mean some some Hood because everything is going to be totally fine after all this is a totally stock Engine with only 240,000 Mi I mean what could possibly go wrong no no no how did this even happen all right so since I don't have any maintenance history on this car I want to get a new timing belt in here we have some cool new cam gears and a clear cover so we can see everything working it's going to be great we're going to replace all sorts of other stuff in this area but before we get to that I'm going to remove this exhaust manifold it has a broken stud it's not leaking but uh it will at some point so let's get this entire chunk out first upep let's remove our freezing ice cold air induction system this Beauty right here to give this some more room I'm going to remove this side fan there are two more tens in the bottom that I've already removed and those are right here and I'm using a cupcake tin or cupcake tray whatever these things are called Mike over at DeLorean Midwest gave me the idea and uh yeah these are the throwaway ones if you want you can even label stuff so fan bolts yeah it's really good handwriting note to self position your hose clamps differently this is what I hit when I pulled out of my driveway in the last video because we lowered the car Rock chips Galore woo I just scraped for the first time and now it's scraping on that I just need to I need to turn it all right that's much better and now I won't hit my head on it ask me how I know that you can hit your head on those threads walking by I'm bleeding under my hair next we're going to remove the oil drain there we go glued that one in I'm actually going to replace this part for a super weird issue I can't get it to stop leaking from the bottom it won't seal up against the oil pan I mean I guess it could be a warped oil pan or something but it feels perfectly smooth so I'm not sure I've tried a gasket and a combination of gasket and RTV and everything so maybe this flange is Warped I'm not sure but we're putting a shiny one on I'm going to take the exhaust manifold off with the turbo so we're going to disconnect the exhaust from this flange now we can pull this off like that perfect and we just let it sit right here now I did spray these nuts down a couple of weeks ago in anticipation for this but we'll do it again spray everything okay not not right there you you don't need to spray that so we have a bunch of 12 some of them are very difficult to get to and the two end studs are 14s we'll deal with those later this top one looks pretty straightforward and it is turning which is great if you guys were around for my last DeLorean video you know how much of a nightmare the exhaust manifold studs and nuts where I basically had to torch every single one of them the drill came out it was it was bad and let's hope the eclipse isn't like the DeLorean and yes uh penetrating oil is currently soaking into my head spraying that on the valve cover was pretty dumb I might have to use the open end of a wrench like this but whatever I will take it compared to torching everything that is not bad I was kind of running out of room with this raised up boss section of the manifold I don't know why that's there but it is and look at that our first nut came off sweet I think quarter Drive tools are going to be the ticket here come on oh why oh no that's not coming all right I haven't gotten a torch yet but we're busting out the map gas should be all we need we're going to heat up the nut expand it and that should loosen it up oh yeah got it woohoo I did it map gas for the win I will get the oxy acetylene torch guys I know I need one all right just been busy but I think we're going to be okay cuz it's a desert car into the cupcake mix you go all right all the 12 came out with no issue I'm just using Wi on everything though just to be sure so now we'll hit the 14s oh yeah no problem we're good this is great all right one left to do I've got the last one loosened up here we go see how easy this thing is to shimmy up out of here ain't nothing but any Clips party there we go sweet that's easy with this out of the way we can take a look at our stud or lack thereof so remove the gasket this is what we're faced with it is broken off recessed inside of the boore look at our little exhaust valves so cute hang on before we start getting into this stud this is a great opportunity to paint the hot side of this exhaust manifold and the Turbo all right guys I've moved the manifold to the paint department and uh this is just meant to be a super cheap quick while you're in there I have some of this stuff left over it's like a silver color header paints so I just want to paint the manifold that's really the only part that you can see outside of the cold side of the turbo which looks pretty good so I have scraped away any of the rust or dirt and degreased it all so we're ready to go they say this stuff is good to 2000° I don't know we're going to find out in the dyno so really this is a uh an experiment at the end of the day hey that's looking pretty good almost as good as my E55 wagon now that I have these bad boys my brand new floor mats from tux mat I saw these at a car show a couple months ago and it's exactly what I had been looking for and the customer service is awesome all you have to do to order is click on the link below type in your car and you're done shipping is totally free and fast and everything is packaged great yes yes installation is a breeze just remove your old floor mats and install your tux mats by sliding them in they are made specifically for your car so they Contour perfectly and even utilize the factory Fasteners if your car has them they also give you clips that tuck in to hold the sides of the mats and that's it guys anyone can install these tux mats they take a few minutes they are super high quality and if you have kids you know how dirty cars get these will offer superior protection to any format on the market and they're super easy to clean let me go ahead and put my coffee in My Cup oh no oh man what am I going to do on a normal floor mat you're totally screwed the coffee just soaks in not with tux mat though look at this it's just just chilling waiting patiently for you to Simply soak it up with a microfiber just like that look at that you've cleaned your floor mat with coffee looks beautiful guys these are seriously the best floor mats this looks very Factory like OEM plus and they fit like a glove okay but after you spill your coffee you do want to spray a cleaner on here just to get the coffee smell out and you're done so if you guys want to get a great deal on premium floor mats from tuxmats dcom all you got to do is click on the link down below now back to the GSX all right guys after a couple of coats this is what we have this will offer no heat protection like a ceramic coating or anything like that it's strictly cosmetic and hopefully it doesn't just all flake off later first step in drilling out an exhaust manifold stud or Drilling in general is a center punch especially though when you're doing these manifold studs because if you get all loose with drilling you could drill right into your cylinder head so what we're going to be using here is a 90° drill with a reverse drill bit and we're hoping this is all we need but you never know so right now I'm drilling right into the center of this manifold stud see that's where you want to be every once in a while we'll clean this up that way we can get a good view I stepped it up one size with the drill bit the reason I'm using the reverse drill bit first is sometimes it'll just spin the stud out and we have to drill a hole in it anyway to use a screw extractor so might as well give us that chance it it didn't work though so Screw Extractor time so we're going to use a hammer to hit this in and if we turn it to the left it could grip the stud and bring it out so we want it seated nice like that okay let's see is this working no no no it's not okay yeah this one's not going to play nice guys we got to keep drilling unfortunately we're going to have to drill the hole larger and install some new threads a helicoil so this is a larger drill bit well right now I'm clearing out the rest of the stud stud that did not want to co of course right when you start using a larger drill bit a big piece of stud wants to release itself there it is it's too late though we've already committed to drilling this out all right now we can lubricate and tap make sure this is going in straight and we are very fortunate that we have this much room you guys have seen me work on a lot of big V where there's a frame in the way or a DeLorean well with a very weak V6 also with a gigantic frame in the way that stinks this this is easy this is cutting new threads like butter feels really good all right that's about maxed out there so now we can back out okay with our new threads cut into our cylinder head we can well install our new threads this is going to make it the same thread pitch as the factory stud and it's just going to go in like this all right then the tool pulls right out here you can see our beautiful new threads we'll use a little anti-seize on the stud as well and then we can simply thread it on in the new stud allows you to stick a five mm socket on here and tighten it up if you notice on these there's nothing you have to have a stud tool or just put it in by hand if you can going to clean this up just a little bit using a wire brush on the mating surfaces so we get a good seal and then while we're here we're just going to clean up the threads a little bit on these other studs no reason to replace all of these be a ton of work to get these out of the head too and if they're doing their job they're doing their job you know what there's no reason to install this manifold yet it's drying anyway so I'm going to soak this in some engine Degreaser while we do some other work oh yeah it's going to look pretty and that other work is going to be the replacement of this timing belt and a bunch of other stuff and it starts with removing the spark plugs well and that starts with removing this cool plate plate coming off and we have four spark plug wires to remove because you know this is a four-cylinder I'll put these off to the side and now we have four super easy spark plugs to do break them free by hand and then we can zip out with the gun next we're going to stick a long extension down into the cylinder right on top of the piston and then we're going to remove my super cool anky Wheels I promise this will make sense soon hello CTSV braks and yes I've decided I'm going to leave the V it just looks so cool but right behind it is why we took the wheels off and that would be the balancer we need to turn the engine hang on let's get this out of the way it's destroyed anyway not a whole lot holding this in huh I have a mystery blue wire where is that going it's going right in here okay I'm glad I'm doing this definitely needs a little bit of a cleanout and this just just fell off this one fell off and now this one fell off how none of this stuff didn't fall off driving it I have no idea but I got lucky one of the reasons I really wanted to do the timing belt was to fix a few oil leaks as well you can see it's been leaking for a long time there's a big gasket underneath this block here and a couple up above there that I'm going to replace while we're in there so with all the plugs out it's really easy to turn so I'm going to go like that and we're going to see our extension move up oh just passed it okay soon as that at top dead right about there stop moving but we're not there yet see this Mark here it needs to be on this side same thing over here they need to line up so we need to go around again we're almost there see this little notch on the crank right we get to about here this should stop going up right there oh and look at that our teeth are lining up that's all it takes to get into time but make sure that you're double-checking your cam gears because even if the little notch on the harmonic balancer is lined up it could be 180 off and at a totally different valve event so now we know we have triple checked two cam gears one Crank that everything's in time H let's clean this up too there we go you can see that's the 10° Mark and then there's a t for top and that's what we're lined up with and you know what let's let's do an oil change on the old Eclipse did one last year so it's about doe there we go into the black hole of oil containment with the oil drained we're going to drain the coolant as well because we're going to lose some of that when we remove the cooler for the oil cuz it's cooled by coolant CU coolant is super cool and I still don't have a coolant drain so I just hold old bottles up to it like this it's professional Shop people with all the fluids drained let's remove the oil cooler assembly couple of really loose and nasty connectors no idea how these even worked and some 12 all right pull these bolts out and I think we can slide this out of the way yeah it looks like the timing cover overlaps I removed the bolt here and maybe we could shimmy it out maybe not but we got to remove this anyway so let's do that I got to say doing the exhaust manifold studs on an engine like this is easy we have a ton of room there but now we have this to deal with so we're paying for it let's loosen up this power steering pump first this also does the belt adjustment let's say 13 okay with this loosened up we can remove the belt like that leave it chilling for a minute and you know what let's get this power steering pump out of the way all right let's see if we can shimmy this thing out of here there's an AC line in the way and I'm not exactly sure why but there's an electrical plug on the power steering pump maybe a sensor something like that let's see if I can sneak this around around Ah that's the ticket right there okay sweet get out of here power serum pump we'll put you right here what's so nice about these cheap cupcake bins is that we can use a new one for each step of the project so this is everything to do with the exhaust manifold and now this has everything to do with our timing belt job and I've labeled things power steering for all of these we're never going to remember where all this stuff goes if it's in a big pile I don't mean to keep harping on about the cupcake bins I'm not sponsored by the cupcake bin manufacturing industry but I've been using things like this for the last 20s something years they work great but this is so much better and where did the term harping come from I don't even know really what a harp is maybe back in like the 1640s when Harps were popular someone was just wailing on a harp and someone's like hey stop harping around and that's where it was created okay getting this bracket out of the way too okay that's loose remove this bolt for the alternator I already got one down below and now the alternator moves back and forth this is the tensioner for its own belt and now if I remove the big bolt on the bottom it should shimmy its way out shimmy ah we're almost done shimming shim shim shim shim shim shim shim shim wow look at this failure waiting to happen I am so glad we are in here right now this hose is going to blow up can't even get it off I push the clamp down now I just got to I got to slice it give the old razor shank I told you not to mess with me ah give it the old pry bar this thing does not want to leave its home oh my gosh he you know what never mind I think I think this is good just kidding get off I'm going to lose coolant I don't care thought I drained at all but apparently I didn't no no it's nothing a little Princeton tiger shirt can't soak up I get my Rags from people in the neighborhood they just drop off bags of of Rags I I don't think I know anyone that has ever gone to Princeton but apparently someone in my neighborhood went to Princeton or is a Princeton I'm going to assume Tigers fan and also sorry Princeton tigers for destroying this shirt comment down below if you're a Princeton Tiger fan oh man I'm finding some gems in here Alpha F it's a perfect fit I've got a jack holding up the engine and transmission right now because we're going to remove this engine mount for even more access all right you can see the engine kind of went down a little bit I get the power steering reservoir removed as well and that gives us access to this bolt right here and with a rag on a pry bar we can now shimmy this out of the way there we go cool oh that's beautiful and you can see someone already installed a polyurethane upper engine mount so it's kind of nice that makes it a lot easier to remove the belts this is the pulley for the water pump it's in a weird spot but these bolts aren't too tight so you can actually hold it and loosen them all up by hand all right pulley coming out there's our water pump even more room oh and then right behind it is a little mini pulley too look at that okay there's three pieces to this whole plastic timing cover uh this middle one's broken and I should be able to find a new one let's get the crank pulley off next we'll soak everything for a few minutes this is funny because I installed the big brakes I can't fit my tool in here anymore big brake problems let's see if the 38 will do it a no problem look at that now we have four little guys there we go balancer off one more pulley coming out right here just held in with these two 12s and now outside of the AC compressor we have every front end accessory off I've removed all the 10 mm that hold this cover on so it should slide right off now there we go okay yeah I am definitely glad we are doing this look at all the oil in here eventually the oil can soak into the timing belt weaken it and it can break our belt though is pretty dry it's actually in really good shape but that's okay I'll feel much better with a new one in there well I've noticed a couple issues with whoever installed this belt however long ago one of them is that this gear is not lined up see this little white Mark there's a DOT there it's supposed to line up right here so this engine has two balance shafts there's one here and one here some guys delete this and then the alignment of this doesn't make any difference but mine still has them so this needs to be aligned otherwise the engine can vibrate and I got to say I always thought this thing did vibrate a little bit too much and I kind of chocked it up to the polyurethane engine mount but that could definitely be it something else I don't really like is the tension of this timing belt it's pretty loose that is because they don't have the tension done properly at all so this is a little trick we take a drill bit this measures in at 3.8 mm and it should fit snug in between here and you can see it's very loose these are all really good things to find before you go to the dyno and pump like I don't know 25 psi a boost into it engine before we take this belt off I'm just going to Mark the old one and you do this in a few spots when you're replacing the belt this isn't really necessary but it's one of those like triple check your timing things when we get the new one on we'll count the teeth in between our marks and if everything's good we're good this is our tensioner pulley so we're going to loosen this up and now you can see here we got a bunch of play there we go now we're going to remove the automatic tensioner as well and a bolt there and a bolt there this guy comes out and then if you see this pin here it pushes up on this arm and moves the pulley so we basically have two ways of adjusting the tension on this belt with all the tension off we can remove our timing belt and there it is she's gone made in the USA but no idea when this was done next we'll loosen up the bolt for the pulley for the belt for the balance shaft and right there this is also an adjustment point you can see here it's oblong and that sets your tension [Music] there we go now I'm going to remove the pickup for the crank signal quarter drive ratchet for the wind there all right here's our pickup and we'll kind of just put this to the side for now and I had put this bolt back in we're going to remove it though again all right this is a really thick washer that comes right out we shouldn't need a puller for this it should come off fairly easy there we go cool and do not Bend this plate this is for the crank pickup it's the reluctor wheel it's very thin and if you damage this you're not going to get a good signal so now we can remove this belt and this gear which is keywa and there is our front crank seal that's probably been leaking for a very long time before I replace the crank seal I want to get to the cam seals I think they are the majority of the leak up top you can see the oil right there and some right in here so the leak is just come all the way down from the top of the engine and since we have to remove those Factory cam gears anyway might as well go with these Beauties and a clear cover oh and I'm using Mitsubishi parts for basically everything on this project in order to do the cam gears and the seals valve cover needs to come off so many valve cover bolts we need a new pan okay should pull off now I was the last guy to put this on I already did a valve cover gasket and now it's not coming off there we go just needed a little persuasion cool get out of here and we can remove the 17 mm cam bolt cam number one coming off I mean cam gear that's not the cam but that's the cam woo that took a lot I think these are 100 foot PBS with Loctite oh yeah these seals were definitely the main cause of our oil leak look at that it's puddling right at the bottom and this one's not that bad but look at all of this yeah that's fun next we're going to remove the cam caps right over these seals and you'll have to pry these up just a little all right there we go okay that's coming out and the seal should slide right out too like that this is what it looks like up close and you can see this engine's in really good shape there's nowhere at all the cam loes look perfect as well nice and shiny 240,000 miles people so I'm just going to go around here and clean before we get our new seal in here's the new cam seal and I'm going to use a little bit of RTV on the outside defitely do not get any of this on the inside that actually needs a light film of oil and we can slide this over the cam fit it in just like that with everything cleaned up and the RTV going out a little bit past the seal we can reinstall our cam cap like that now I have these bolts in here by hand but before we tighten these I'm going to go ahead and install our new cam gear because this basically pushes against the seal and seats it where it needs to go and remember how our dowels are supposed to face up apparently on the EVO it's different so we'll line this up very non Evo like that and then a little blue Loctite on our cam bolt and we'll install the bolt like so all right that's good and then these are 15 ft-lbs all right we're done one cam seal down something I want to show you guys on the second seal is that we have our TV but we also have some engine assembly Lube where you can use oil on the inside and then it'll slide on here nice and easy and with this part of the cap we're going to do some engine assembly Lube as well so that it's properly lubricated upon first start cap goes on little Mallet love tap and for the in cam gear there is a reluctor wheel for the cam sensor so we got to swap that onto this oh these are not very tight at all they are little screws after all and this come right off and go right there actually let's clean this guy up first it is pretty nasty or it was beautiful now not not yet it will be see nice and pretty and now it's not reluctant on sending cam information I'm going to the wrong one okay stop making jokes Alex fix the car there we go W that is snug okay even though these screws require like no torque whatsoever I'm going to put a little Loctite at them just because this is important you don't need this thing rattling loose and throwing off our cam position sensor reading we don't okay now this beauty is ready to go on and we'll pick our non Evo hole okay here comes 100 ft-lbs oh yeah okay you know you're getting old when you're doing stuff like that and you hear like you know torque R sounds in your back and stuff but oddly enough I just got a little tweak and I feel great now it's been like eight hours my back's kind of hurting but I'm re-energized I I like cracked something in my spine in a good way the cam seals and adjustable cam gears are done although for now we're just going to leave these set at zero but you can play around with the cam timing now but I think it's time for us to play around with replacing this nasty water pump looks like there's a total of four bolts that hold this in so I'm going to go around and loosen those bolts I'm going to be replacing the timing belt tensioner pulley so we'll get that out of the way right now too I think it'll give us more room with the water pump hang on more stuff's coming out all right this is also for the adjustment of the timing belt that's where the pulley sits all the bolts are out oh more coolant y yay oh that's great aha though I caught you I caught you coolant with this beautiful beautiful bed sheet right here thank you whoever gave me that it was very nice and so is this water pump coming right out there you go yay we got it out let's see I got to say there's no play in here the water pump looks nasty but it's not its fault it's probably a great water pump that really doesn't need to be replaced it's just had oil all over it but big while you're in there when you're doing any timing belt job is a water pump pretty much any pulley that is available to replace if you remove everything off the front of the engine you got a ton of room in here and yes I know what you guys are thinking Alex wouldn't this have been easier to drop the engine maybe yeah maybe I don't know it's too late now I'm not doing it now H remember when I said I was going to take this out first yeah we can finally take it out more fluids possibly wow this is so bad we started that job so long ago we were only on our second cupcake tray all right we're going to let this thing so for a little bit there you go we'll come back to that a little later yeah might as well just throw this in there too we got another pulley coming out this is getting replaced too considering how difficult this would be to replace and how old it is we are doing away with the crank sensor and by doing way I mean we're just simply replacing it this looks much nicer and yeah these wires are super brittle I'm surprised this even works okay I think we finally have everything off that we're going to replace so let's do a little cleaning woo this is going to be nice all of that leaking oil and grime from those bad cam seals be gone be gone guys I'm getting a little carried away over here I'm spraying everything I bet this bed sheet never thought he would see this pretty nasty bed sheet gotten a lot of this so far I'm using a brush trying to get in everywhere wo oh yeah getting in everywhere everywhere oh my gosh I should have taking the engine out okay after about 30 minutes of this insanity this is what we got much much better I mean it practically looks brand new in here I had to save my efforts for what's going to get covered up eventually so I still you know need to clean up stuff in this area but I can do that with a pressure washer outside but yeah overall the engine's looking pretty sparkly clean I was able to clean up the side of the engine as well of which you'll see about 0.02% of actually this aluminum pipe I think you might be able to see some of that probably not the turbo covers it up but uh but we know we know that that aluminum pipe and the side of this engine block is is clean okay thank you very much bed sheet you've definitely done your job here sorry one last job for you I know you're you're spent there we go clean the floor and now your final destination all right we're back outside with the exhaust manifold and I'm going to change the color from Silver to Black this looks pretty good as is but I think on the car it might get a little dirty and also it does doesn't really match anything else on the car I usually go with black and yeah I'm going to go I'm going to go that way and shout out to my friend Nick and former roommate when I used to be single and live in the city for this shirt I borrowed this shirt from him before we went out one night and I never gave it back and I actually wore it for like another decade but now it's a rag it's some good times shirt yeah I think this is going to look much better and eventually the intake tubes will be a satin black as well and I think it'll match well it's a white car with black accents I don't need to introduce a totally different color like Sil much better we'll let this dry overnight all right so we have a clean engine I just cleaned up the floor I have a slightly cleaner shirt let's start reassembly so we can get this thing fired up I left the old crank seal in since they're doing a bunch of nasty cleaning work now we have to get this guy out these can be difficult if there's no Ridge so I've made a little Gap so we can pry it out and whether you're using a flat blade screwdriver or a punch or whatever you want to punch into the old seal not into the engine and these aren't in very tight so you can Pride it off like that and not damage anything same as the cam seals we have a little bit of rtb on the outside and lubricant on the inside and then we just slide the seal on get it centered by hand and then we're just simply pushing the seal in making sure it is flat all the way around then you can take your old seal slide it back on and you just gently tap all the way around so you're using the old seal as a tool and luckily this one just bottoms out so you know where to stop then just feel all the way around make sure it's even and you're done we're going to go back together basically in reverse order so we have a brand new it bearing that goes right there all right click that's done and feels great next is the water pump so we have to replace the seal on this aluminum tube oh wow yeah this was bad look at that it broke very brittle clean everything up got a new seal on with some lubrication next we have our brand new water pump and it comes with a paper gasket so I did a gentle light coating of RTV on both sides and we have one bolt in here ready to go this requires a high level of shimmying especially if you don't want to mess up your RTV oh all right I think I may have gotten it yay oh my gosh okay cool before we start any bolts let's slide this onto the pipe oh yeah nice all right water pump is done so we went from this I added some RTV on there was wiping it off all the way to this and I got to say the safe sea line kind of just gets in the way of everything I just got done cleaning up the timing belt tensioner arm and the bolt and the washer and and we're going to use a little bit of synthetic axle grease right inside of here because this does pivot and keep in mind there's no engine oil lubrication here so this is a moving part that requires some kind of grease and this should do really well and it gets installed right here like that very tight tolerance nice and smooth though now with the bolt-in washer installed I can go ahead and tighten this up exciting stuff people we have gears going on so this is the first one this is the outside with the H I don't know what that stands for but it's keywa and so we know it can only go on like that next up is the belt for the oil pump and I just want to point a couple things out right now we have this little dot on the gear lined up perfectly and this lined up with this that's where you want it and now we can slide the belt on right there and like that this is a brand new tensioner that we install right here and before you fully tighten it you want to push up on the pulley with your thumb there and you don't want the belt tooo tight you don't want it too loose this is about perfect this is one of those things you do by feel that's about the amount of movement you want it's not too tight it's not too loose with the oil pump in time it's time for our reluctor wheel for the crank pickup but I got a new one because they're really cheap and these have to be absolutely perfect so I don't want to risk it if it's wobbled out at all if you drop it or anything like that just replace it and it just slides on like that and now we can install our brand new crank pickup right here with the pickup bolts tightened up we have our front crank gear also keyw all right guys it is time for the timing and I want to show you a little trick and I just want to preface this by saying that this is just like a triple check you really need to make sure the timing belt lines up with all your marks which I'm going to show you guys again once we go in with the new one but this is a triple check so on top here these are two belts so this is the old one on top this is the new one on the bottom I've zip tied them together so that all the ribs line up perfectly this is a great check also to make sure you have the right length belt but I made a couple of marks on the old belt as you can see here in white this is at the bottom at the crank I just pick two random spots so what we're going to do now is we're going to transfer those to the new belt there we go okay make sure all the ribs line up perfectly which they do I also did this up top at the cams all right my little white marker is running out I'll have to redo that but you get the idea we're marking that okay this serious L doesn't even work anymore anyway I'll get new white paint but what we've done here is we've made four points on this belt that should line up precisely with the corresponding white mark that I made on the engine which I'll show you here in a minute so let's get to timing so what we want to double check right now is that the center of that V lines up with the bottom of that Mark you can verify that this arrow is lined up with this Mark as well and we want to clock our oil pump properly all right so now this is our new belt and I'll show you guys what's going on here with the white dot that I made you can see this one lines up here and then if we wrap around the other one lines up there so that's a good reference point and this is an old white Mark someone else made now with the belt on top we can slide these on as well and I can tell this is off see the white line there should be even with this one slide this off I have a wrench on the cam and we'll turn it into position next we're going to set the tension on the timing belt with this specialty tool it's hard to show in the car so I'll show you in the old one but we're going to be sticking this in like this and then turning an Ecentric I mean seriously guys do I even need to say anything this looks like a a crying baby right here no why are you replacing me with a new one I don't know why the crying baby is an old man but I'm not very talented at voices if you haven't noticed Goodbye old man all right so right now you can see here we have a flopping timing belt and we're going to turn this until that goes away right about here now I'll hold this with my thumb and then we'll tighten up the center bolt here on the pulley so it stays solid once you're satisfied with your tension you can pull the grenade pin right here for the automatic tensioner oh all right goodbye and now our drill bit fits in perfectly and there's a spec for The Gap you need there it's 3.8 to like 4 and 1/2 so I use a drill bit that's about 4 mm and we're good which if you're curious is a 530 seconds drill bit all right now the final step when you're doing timing is to crank the engine over by hand a few times just make sure no valves are hitting Pistons or anything you don't want to just start it because if you messed up the timing you're going to destroy your engine at that point and if you do it by hand you'll be able to feel when those bells hit the piston and then you stop just very light pressure don't go crazy here she's spinning good though oh yeah so I'm almost on the sixth Revolution on the sixth Revolution everything should line back up again there's three different Marks here but I'll just show you one that's easiest so right there and then my white lines of course match up and that lines up too if we look up top the cam gear Lines line up perfectly here's the another way to make sure you got this right that hole is got to be centered with this cap and so does this one this is the only one with the reluctor wheel because it has the cam sensor on the intake cam I've cleaned up the oil cooler a little bit but we need to remove this big nut and pick does the trick cuz there's a seal here and it's probably original super flat and leaking all right this actually wasn't too bad to dig out okay with both parts cleaned up I've brought some Mercedes-Benz sunroof grease into this project gloves are ripped we're moving here people these are good signs and this is a nice fresh new seal not going to lie I kind of forgot how this was clocked but these are just little Minor Details I'll do the final torque once it's on the car so we can move this around a bit new gasket going on oh this is going to look good it's starting to look like an engine again okay got two bolts in hold [Music] yourself all right so this is what everything under the plastic timing cover looked like like before and here is what it looks like after a lot of work a lot of cleaning and a lot of work but wow this is looking fantastic let's keep going all right I've test fit the manifold of the turbo on a few times because I had to figure out some coolant hoses if you guys remember when I installed this aftermarket turbo it's supposed to have coolant running through it and I didn't have the right fitting so now I do they are installed and this is probably my favorite part I chopped up an AMG a C63 coolant hose because it just happened to work perfectly it's got a 90 there and then the other end had a 90 here it's just it's perfect let's go Mount this up I clocked it so you can see AMG right when you pop the hood it's kind of cool I'm so glad I went with black this just looks great wait till you see it on here hopefully I don't scratch it all right over the the studs you go there we go sweet I tightened up all of the manifold stud nuts here is our freshly painted exhaust manifold header if you will and look at this front and center a coolant hose off of my C63 507 Edition it's the little things in life people the little things and the unexpected I didn't really know I was going to do that it just worked out it's coming together now people we got a couple new hoses there we'll zip in the exhaust I've wrapped up a lot of odds and ends we have the oil drain the new one I bought does not fit so I had to go back with the old one we have the oil feed and I threw the harmonic balancer on we are going to start this engine without the cover on so we can watch everything I like to do that after doing a timing belt job just to make sure everything's okay I am replacing the spark plugs and we're going to Gap these down to about 24,000 so you guys have been here with me to gaple bees I invented that we're going to use our super cool gapper tool so we're going to stick a 22,000 feeler in there crank it down until you can't move it and there's a little spring back and now we should have 24 perfect valve cover gasket is installed and you want to put a little bit of RT V at this corner plug here around the cam caps as well uh just on the corners that's it now we can plop this Beauty on like that and I know what you're thinking Alex why didn't you paint this like this looks good why not do the same I'm going to guys I'm going to I'm going to have this powder coated along with the intake tubes it's going to be all satin black and nice but yeah just didn't have time with the valve cover torqued it is spark plug time start them all by hand plug wires on now it's time for some oil and I actually saved saved the old oil it just had a few hundred miles on it but we will be changing it afterwards we're just going to use this to fire it up and run it through a little bit clean everything out all right guys here we go first start sounds great all right idling down have no oil spewing out anywhere we're good I like it I like it's idling really high right now I might have left a vacuum line off or something oh okay all right yeah I think I left a vacuum line off and some other stuff but anyway we're good it was just a nice little test run everything is working well with the timing no leaks no nothing yeah I think we're good I think we're good to continue on well this is really weird we have engine oil leaking from the back like that's the front of the engine this is the back from where though guys this is so weird what you're looking at right now is the head gasket and there's oil coming out of the head gasket area that makes absolutely no sense I mean literally how long you saw me run the engine was that's it that's how long it's been running it's running fine outside of some vacuum leaks why is the head gasket leaking oil I'm going to spray this clean and we'll run it again all right let's see there's our spot right there get out of town no no no how did this even happen what in the world is going on here how do you blow a head gasket I mean this thing was fine it was totally fine you you can't blow a head gasket by running an engine for 20 seconds I I mean this is did a timing belt that's it it was fine before not that this thing could build boost at idle or anything but it wasn't even connected like that that we that didn't do anything it just started up and ran great guys I'm seriously in disbelief right now this is the graphite head gasket you can tell it's the stock head gasket and it is just leaking oil like crazy and you can tell I mean you can see the material is just blown out look at that guys I've never seen this before I mean I've seen bad head gaskets leak engine oil like that that's a thing but this head gasket wasn't leaking at all I ran it for just a few seconds didn't even like move the needle it didn't overheat or anything like that that's leaking oil which is like a different failure altogether yeah coincidence we just did all this stuff and now that I mean that would be the weirdest thing in the whole world I mean it does have 240,000 Mi on a graphite head gasket those aren't the best it's just it's just odd that this wasn't leaking before I mean I never drive this car though i' like literally all the driving I've ever done is is what you've seen in the video I've never taken it home once but still this is just very weird I mean it it runs good um but uh but the yeah the head gaskets bad which which um you can't uh tune a car in the dyno tomorrow tomorrow is the the tune day it's like 10:00 at night I was trying to get this all done and uh yeah I was almost there now we got to like take it all apart again the head's got to come off and I got to check the block I'm sure it's fine it's an iron block we'll have to send the head out of course I'll do ARP head studs I'm just blown away guys seriously have you ever seen this a head gasket just blow out of nowhere after a timing belt job please comment down below I'd love to hear theories as well as to how this happened I I don't know I'm like I'm texting people right now and I'm getting just what that's insane you ran it for 20 seconds and it blew the head gasket but the oil part of the head gasket that doesn't make any sense yeah I don't know that'll do it for this video this is a very weird ending I thought we were going to be ripping this thing on the dyo on E85 and making all sorts of cool noises and power and and whatnot but we're not um glad this didn't happen on the dyno it would have blown up and spewed oil and stuff all over the dyno which would have been horrible so I'm glad it happened but I'm not at all I I don't know I don't know how to feel uh anyway I hope you guys feel that you enjoyed this video we got a ton of work done just pure wrenching uh if you guys appreciate this kind of content if you want to support the channel now that I have you know more money to spend on something uh subscribe uh like the video share the video with your friends and and I hope you guys have a way way better day or night or whenever you're watching this and I'll definitely see you in the next one have a good day or night I I don't even know what I'm [Music] saying on the dyo so it's about to get uh something in here um next we're going to remove something that's out of focus okay sorry Max I know I pressed record there cuz I thought I was ready and I am ready I just forgot where I put this okay here we go and let's hope the eclipse and let's hope the eclipse do U it all right guys here we good ah here we good next we're going to remove the oil drain okay because if you get your drill bit in here and get all what did I just say and now we have four and some twelves okay the battery literally just fell out next we're going to loosen up something this is what this looks like this is what it looks like this is what it looks like and remember how our dowels need to fight and remember how our and remember how our and remember how our dolls are supposed to face up apparently on the EVO it's [Music]

Channel: LegitStreetCars

Views: 317,899

Keywords: LEGITSTREETCARS, ECLIPSE GSX, ENGINE FAILURE, ENGINE BLOWS UP, mitsubishi

Id: C75TsPckA_k

Length: 46min 36sec (2796 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 27 2024