Everything I Know About Building Wheels

are your wheels falling apart it might be time for a rebuild [Music] whether you're replacing a bent rim or a broken hub or perhaps you just look into your wheels I'm going to show you the whole process from start to finish so that means pull the wheel off the bike dismounting the tire and then breaking the wheel all the way down to the hub and then of course lacing and trimming all right let's see what you can do the first step of course is to pull the wheel off the bike will do this by loosening the axle nut and sliding the axle out of the wheel then you'll need a wiggle the chain off the sprocket and pull the wheel straight back out of the smoo arm with the wheel off the bike will need to release the air out of the tube by pulling the valve stem core out after that will loosen up the rim lock and push it in to relieve the pressure before wrenching on the tire at all you'll want to pop the bead you can do this by flipping the tire lever over so the spoon shape is facing up and then push down so the tire goes into the center of the rim you'll need to do this on both sides by the way I always like to start with the sprocket side down that way if your tire lever slips you don't bust your hand on the sprocket and with the rotor facing up it lessens the chance of it being bent to start working the tire off the rim you'll need to insert two tire levers a few inches apart with the spoon facing down push each lever in until you feel it hook on the bead of the tire then work one lever over and then the next to remove one lever from the tire ease up on the pressure a little bit and wiggle the lever out you want to take about two inch by side of the tire each time any more than that and you'll be struggling you'll notice about two inches away from where you have the tire over the rim there's going to be a little gap where you can insert the tire lever try to hit this gap each time as you work in the tire over the rim continually check to make sure the bead is down on both sides of the rim this is the absolute key to making this task as easy as possible another thing to keep in mind if you're having trouble working the bead over is to push the rim lock all the way in so that way it's not interfering with the tire so just continue working your way around two inch pipes at a time with one side of the tire over the rim we're going to flip the wheel over and follow the same exact process of pulling the B the tire over the edge of the rim once you've got both sides of the tire over the rim we're going to place the wheel on the ground with the rim lock facing down towards the ground then push the wheel down in the tire so that way you have a gap at the top between the rim and the tire start by pulling the wheel and the tire away from each other at the top where that gap is until you have the wheel about halfway out of the tire then pull straight upward towards your face and the wheel will come out of the tire we'll need to remove the rear sprocket and rotor since those will be in the way we'll do this by loosening up the sprocket nuts with a wrench so that way we can get the bolts out with an impact or allen wrench the brake rotor bolts typically aren't as tight as a sprocket bolt so you can get those with an impact and a wrench on the back side one last thing left removed is the rim lock and rim band this is so you can get access to the spoke nipples before you do any disassembly of the wheel I would recommend taking a few pictures of the spoke pattern or making a little diagram so you know exactly how it goes back together the first step towards turn the wheel all the way down is the loose of the spoke nipples with the spoke wrench I will go a few turns on each spoke so that way we can finish it off with an impact from the backside if the spoke is turning with the spoke nipple you're going to have to use a pair of vise grips to hold the spoke and just a word of warning I'm going to be saying the word nipple a lot in this video so you better get used to it once you've got all the spoke nipples loosened up you can throw them out the rest of the way with a hex head on an impact or a drill now it's time to pull the spokes off of the hub on this wheels there are two different types of spokes so as you pull them off keep track of which one is which and where it goes on most through wheels you're going to have two different lengths of spokes and then on the front they all should be the same across the board all right the wheels pretty much down to nothing at this point to begin reassembly you're going to want to organize your spokes so if you have two different lengths of spoke obviously separate them so that way assembly goes a little bit easier one thing I want to mention here is the wear markings on the spokes as you can see in the video keep these in mind as you're assembling the wheel it'll give you some clues as to how the wheel is put together and how exactly the spoke was positioned obviously this isn't really relevant if you're replacing the slope okay we are going to start by placing the rim with the numbers closest to the work surface and then position the hub with the disk side facing down now we can begin wasting the wheel we're going to start with the inside spokes first these are the spoke holes closest to the center of the hub on this particular bike the longer spokes go on the inside and the shorter spokes go on the outside as you're installing the outer spokes make sure they're going on top of the inner spokes not underneath the video will give you a visual of how it should be before threading the spoke nipple on to the spoke be sure to apply some anti-seize lubricant this obviously will prevent the spoke from seizing onto the spoke nipple all right now it's time to thread the spoke nipples onto the spoke we're only going to get them started we're not going to thread them on all the way quite yet the spoke holes on the rim are angled different ways so obviously you have holes are angled down and hold that are angled out we're going to be shooting for the holes that are angled up at this plane then you have holes that are angled left and right as you're lining up the spokes you'll kind of see which ones go where it's pretty obvious but I thought I should just mention it anyway now with one side lace I like to wiggle the wheel around a little bit just to get things settled and make sure there's nothing not bound up the process for the other side is going to be exactly the same start with the inner spokes then the outer and then begin threading the spoke nipples onto the spoke as you work your way around to the last few spokes it may start to get a little bit harder to line the spokes up with the whole if that's the case push the spoke back towards the hub a little bit and then position the spokes so it lines up with the hole then you can thread the spoke nipple on and as you tighten the spoke down the souks will does naturally find its place now with the wheel fully laced we're going to thread the spoke nipples down onto the spoke till there's about another two left that's still exposed and obviously we want to do this in an even pattern the pattern I use is I'll start at a hole on the rim then tighten down the spoke next to that hole get two spoke tighten get two tightened all the way around till I came back to that hole and then move to the next spoke over follow that same pattern and once you've gone three times around the wheel you will have hit every single toke kind of confusing to explain but you'll see exactly how it's done in the video using the pattern I just described tighten down the spokes with a spoke wrench until you feel just a little resistance with a spoke simple feeding against the rim it's really important the spokes get tightened down evenly if you take your time here the task of truing will be so much easier to handle the task of lacing and trimming you are going to need a spoke wrench of course here's the wrench I've been using the nice thing about it is the tips are interchangeable meaning you can use it on pretty much every Megamall out there except for is a really small bike such as an xr-50 or TTR 50 it comes with an assortment of different size tips and you can pick these up over on my website I'll put the link below the next step is to measure the wheel offset this is measuring from the sprocket mounting surface to the edge of the rim on this wheel the speck is right at two inches so I'll check it on one side and then turn it around 180 degrees and measure again the measurement on this wheel was perfect but if your speck is off you're gonna have to loosen up the spokes and ship the rim around on the hub to get it where it needs to be finally the time has come to true the wheel like I was saying earlier if you did an even job of lacing the trim process should be pretty straightforward you can either true the wheel on a truing stand like I'm showing here or with the wheel mounted on the bike for right now I'm going to show you the process of truing with the wheel on the stand and then later on I'll go through how you can do it with the wheel on the bike we're going to start by working on the side-to-side movement in the wheel as you can tell there's a slight wobble in the wheel so we're going to find the high spot and tighten or loosen the spokes accordingly to correct that you want to pinpoint exactly where the high spot starts and ends and then tighten the spokes coming from the opposite side of the hub give them about a quarter to half a turn each and this will correct the high spot the key here is patient don't give the spoke more than a half turn or else you'll just be quite in the wheel back and forth it's always a good idea to flip the wheel around and work from the other side if you're having issues with correcting a high spot if you have a pretty severe high spot you'll have to loosen the spokes on the side of the high spot and then tighten the spokes on the opposite side next up we are going to correct the up-and-down movement of the wheel so locate the high spot and then go 180 degrees around the wheel to what will be the low spot and I'll loosen up six eight spokes on the low spot go back to the high spot and tighten up six to eight if you don't want to go more than half a turn on each spoke so in review you are tightening on the high spot and loosening on the low spot this will pull the rim at the high spot towards the hub therefore evening out the wheel once again this takes a patient try not to turn the spoke more than half a turn or else you'll just be fighting the wheel back and forth once the up-and-down movement is corrected you want to check the side to side again to make sure that's still straight and then of course check the hub offset so measure from the sprocket mounting surface to the edge of the rim I promised I'd show you how to true the wheel with it on the bike to mount the wheel in the swing arm or the forks like you normally would and then hold a marker in a stable position so that way you can mark the high spot as the wheel is spinning around then follow the same process I just walked you through for correcting the side-to-side movement as far as the up-and-down movement goes it's a little bit harder to hold the marker in a steady position but it's still possible to mark the high spot once you've got the wheel as true as you can get it we're going to do a final tightening on all the spokes so we're going to follow the same tightening procedure I explained earlier so find a hole on the rim tighten the spoke next to it get to tighten skip to tighten that same process all the way around the wheel and once it's gone three times around you will have hit every single spoke obviously the best way to go about this is to use a spoke torque wrench most people don't have them I don't even have one myself so I'm going to explain how you can get by without one basically these spokes don't really require that much torque the spec on this wheel is 35 inch pounds or three foot-pounds so not really a whole lot I prefer to go by the count test as we hit the spoke with the spoke wrench you want a teen out of it and not a dead sound here's a tighten spoke and here's the loose hook at this point we're ready to install the sprocket and brake rotor be sure to use Loctite only threads if they come loose it's not going to be good you want to do a final hand tightening of all the mounting bolt just to make sure they're snug I know the last few clips showed the tire mounted on the wheel already kind of mixed up the clips there but the rest of the video is going to be on mounting the tire and installing the wheel back on the bike if you need a hand with that just keep watching to start off I'll put baby powder in the tire and roll it around this prevents the tire and tube from chafing against each other after that I'll insert the tube into the tire and add some pressure this allows the tube to Center itself within the tire remove the valve stem core from the tube and then we'll have to lube the tire so we can begin mounting it onto the wheel for lubricant I use dish soap and water mix together in a spray bottle the first thing we'll want to line up is the valve stem on the tube with the hole on the rim and make sure you're inserting the wheel rotor side first into the tire it helps to put a nut on the valve stem of the tube to hold it in place as we're working to be the tire onto the rim to work the bead over as far as you can by hand and then we'll get the rest of it with the tire levers again we're going to be working rotor side up so that way the sprocket doesn't endanger your knuckle insert your tire lever with the spoon facing down and as you're pulling the bead over make sure you're not pinching the tube in there and also you'll want to be working with levers towards each other so that way one lever is holding the bead while the other is pulling the bead over the rim once you've got the bottom side of the tire onto the rim we'll have to get the rim lock in place so put a tire lever on either side of the rim lock and once you've got the tire pulled over the rim lock push the rim lock upwards into the tire and that's all you'll need to do before starting on the second side of the tire make sure your tube is pushed down all the way inside the tire that way it's not in the way and prone to getting pinched by the tire levers before we get started of course we're going to have to lube this side of the tire to use the bead buddy insert two tire levers and pull the bead of the tire over the rim the bottom part of the bead tool goes underneath the edge of the rim and the top part goes over hooking onto a spoke I prefer to put the bead buddy a few spokes to the right of the rim lock and then work the tire over the rim and a clockwise fashion I found it easiest to work in about two inch sections at a time while alternating the tire levers so as you're pulling the tire over the rim take out the tire lever that's behind and move it about two inches past the tire lever you just used and follow the same pattern all the way around towards the end of it I would switch to about one inch by seven times the most important thing to remember here is to keep the beat of the tire down in the middle of the rim this will give you the room necessary to pull the rest of the tire over the rim also only insert the tire lever far enough to where it grabs the edge of the rim if you go any farther than that you're risking pinching the tube just work your way around and take your time this is where most people pinch their kids so exercise some patience here and just remember keep the bead of the tire down in the rim this will help you a lot one last thing to consider when you're pulling the tire over the rim with the lever try not to go all the way down with the lever just go to the point where the tire is going over the rim if you're going all the way down again you're risking pinching the tube as you near the end it's going to be tough to insert and remove the tire levers so what you want to do is really the tension on the lever you're working with in order to insert the next lever kind of hard to explain but you can see what I'm doing in the video once we've got the tire mounted reinstall your valve stem core then add air until the bead seats on both sides many times you'll hear a pop when the bead seats on to the rim then set your pressure twelve to fourteen psi is recommended for a full-sized bike personally I go with thirteen in the back and fourteen in the front it's a great idea to check your pressure a few hours later to make sure the tube it's still holding air and of course don't forget to reinstall your rim lock nut and valve stem cap now is a good time to wipe down the axle holes on the stool arm over time dirt and grease will build up here and it's hard to get to you when you're washing the bike when reinstalling your wheel the first thing to line up is your brake rotor and brake pads then pop your chain back on and apply some fresh grease to the axle before sliding it through before tightening your axle nut put a rag between the chain and sprocket and turn the wheel backwards this will bring the wheel all the way forward to the axle block and that's where you want it then tighten the axle nut to the correct spec on this particular bike it's 94 foot-pounds that wasn't so bad was it just make sure you check those folks after the first couple rides because they are going to loosen up quite a bit and then from then on out I would be checking it every three to four rides to keep them in tip-top shape thank you so much for checking out the video and take care [Music]

Channel: Cameron Niemela

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Keywords: How To, Installation, Tutorial, Tech Tip, Repair, Fix, Help, Inspect, Removal, Rebuild, Four Stroke, Two Stroke, Offroad, MX, Moto, Motocross, SX, Supercross, Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki, KTM, CR125, CR250, CRF250, CRF450, YZ125, YZ250, YZ250F, YZ450F, KX125, KX250, KX250F, KX450F, RM125, RM250, RMZ250, RMZ450, 125SX, 250SX, 250SXF, 450SXF, Race, Holeshot, Whip, Scrub

Id: RFGokrOeDlo

Length: 18min 38sec (1118 seconds)

Published: Thu Aug 10 2017