European Championships Munich 2022 - Bouldering Finals

[Music] [Applause] um and such an amazing crowd to walk out to psych throughout absolutely anyone and everyone and yeah what you want to see before you pull onto the Lord for sure yeah they're standing there in the shade in front of the crowd who have all gathered down the front they've been sprayed with water by the mascot it's cool yenya there uh she's down in here but she prefers yenya so I think we'll maybe stick with that one yeah great to see Ukraine represented her teammate Daniel Foley rep winning the speed the other day which is super emotional for everyone for sure yeah crumple is announced along with Jessica Olympians so they're used to this kind of a pressure Camila maroney's coach the other day he was in the climbing wall and he was telling me how he's impressed with her because she's such a huge role model for the sport yeah because she's really lovely she's really nice she's super strong and a good one to look up to oh 100 I mean I mean so easy to take inspiration from all of these ladies but familiar is definitely someone that I look at and think waffle and athlete at least Adam Oscar her teammate adamondra who won the lead the other day talented athletes in her own right there is Jesse I mean Molly I feel like I've been watching Jesse for years I mean we she's one year older than me so I've known her since I was about 12 13 years old and yeah it's always been cool to follow her journey animal taped up on the left arm she was one of the athletes struggling getting treatment backstage the other day because of cramp or something like that it was a brutal couple of days oh 100 especially when you're climb in all of the rounds exactly going on what yenya comes out onto the stage to a huge Roar from the crowd as she approaches folder number one on the left hand side of the wall starts on the bottom right of the slab finishes up left and I keep saying slab it's it's not really a slab as it's fairly vertical the bottom slab you know yeah right here we go the balled around of this combined style format four tags on that volume meaning as long as Junior has four points anywhere on there she's in for a correct start so it's complex the moves on this zone is that blue volume there and you can see the Zone tag is lined up to it so at the end yeah Daniel gets about three points indicate on the bottom left [Music] [Applause] that is the second Zone and awarded as well and then toe in the crack a rock over and March and we're all our first time in the first flash yeah she is now I was going to chat about whether the route Setters might have made the boulders easier because they know there's a lead route immediately afterwards for sure could be the case here I think so and also being aware of conditions temperature wise and the amount of days on these women have had this definitely looks easier than what we've seen in previous rounds yeah it does and before everyone's up in arms about the root setting here just remember how hard that job is just just defend the root settings for sure thank you to all of our rooms if I couldn't task yeah they don't always get it right things there are mistakes and things that go wrong but everyone is trying the hardest as we watch the enemy here come through match it up just like it is for us a test event it's a test event for the root settings too and I'm sure they'll be making notes and learning as much as they can from this to make sure they really get it right next time yes a very good point so we're all working this out as we go but this is the Olympic format this is this kind of thing that we'll see in the Olympics how different is it once we remove speed from things I think it's pretty different I think a lot of these athletes will be pretty relieved that they don't have to speak I'm not because they don't like it but simply because of the strain it puts on their bodies mentally it's almost a completely different spot to bouldering and the climbing and the amount of time especially it being a new spot to a lot of these athletes because before Tokyo most of these athletes would have never climbed the speed route in their lives it was just so hard to train for Boulder and Lead like you normally would and also to be climbing yeah absolutely it was tricky we're moving past that now and this is the new style so MIA cram book is underway the pressure starts to ramp up here a little bit because she probably knows that Genia flashed the boulder for sure Jenny was not out on the map for very long so MIA knows that it's definitely doable and it's yeah so mind games for her she's keep it together slow and steady as she reaches out to the left into the Zone which is awarded that [Applause] you have to uh you have to change body position on the zone you can't just touch it with a fingertip there's not enough anymore no you have to use it now and that's always something the judges need to define a little bit which is tricky for them so that's two out of two certainly an easier Boulder for the women and the civilian coach walks away it definitely looks like they've gone slightly more towards root climbing Style with this Boulder I would say yeah yeah a little bit insecure but the intensity doesn't actually look that high but I guess maybe that's just the angle of all like kind of bleeding itself to this style yeah it could be and certainly it's war with that huge amount of overhangs on it there's a bit in the middle but even that's not that overhanging oh Mia crumble does what she needed to do to get a flash really to stay in contention two athletes are done and usually the athletes out first uh the ones who qualified last it's a similar situation here but their position is for two events yeah [Applause] yeah for sure so it really is a mixed bag and it's hard to tell how hard a boulder is I guess in in this running order yeah so Camila Maroney from Italy gets her compound away first hole she has to use into a heel hook using literally the rubber on the heels of the shoe to pull them into the wall standing up with the toes hasn't got the Zone yet will now she touches it and uses it seems that looks like it's more for an injury it's a bit dodgy or a leg it just helps take a bit of pressure off and it's a confidence thing as well goes out left in match with both hands in control which she gets the starfish discount right it's in three out of three and I think we could start to say this Boulder is a little bit undercooked to start with which is uh well this is one of those things in the same way in the men's comp no one topped out one of the boulders it is such a fine line between too easy too hard I'd say yeah but for the next athletes coming out they will have to Top This and Flash it stay in immediate contention Camilla came through with a pinch looked in complete control it's a big hole to finish things off there slow motion Dismounts an incredible mistakes he's like I can't imagine what I look like when I'm jumping down from the top of the boat not pretty put it like that no that was pretty graceful isn't it it was I do think we should give Starpoint so Camilla's down safely through this first Boulder did again what she needed to do and Chloe Collier is out next that camera panning down from the roof towards Chloe and Molly has a she put up on her Instagram earlier people can send their questions do keep doing that because uh it's good to know what you guys at home want to know and Molly is the expert so take advantage of her right now [Applause] Clary runs out and that neck heavily taped up she fell from the top of the wall and really whipped her neck that was a horrible slow motion hopefully she's not still struggling with that injury too much Chloe was someone who competed in the last European championships that was also in a similar format to this are you doing all the answers experienced in it so she continued to continue this brilliant run of form that she's having in this competition you can have the best Boulder season for the eye for Sea World Cup by her stand it's a bit disappointed and wow she recovered this definitely so no Zone awarded yet now she touches it and uses it she stands upwards yep there's the three points given by the judge see how small that left the leg shaking a little bit so much tension there it is well and she does take a fall I forgot what falling was like well there we go the athletes can do it so Chloe blinks first out of the women the first mistake we've seen here and that left foot you're right Molly good call there it was bad and when she stood up from it she couldn't quite put the pressure on the right foot and just slipped with the kick and do remember if you're watching this when we say that the athletes kind of maybe finding the boulder a bit easy these are still ridiculously difficult Boulders if an average climber was to find this in the gym it would be sort of an all-day session and especially within that four minute time pressure and an interesting moment as well adds so much she's already back on yeah so Chloe is up and that sixth point it should have a minus decimal on it it hasn't but that's more the sort of graphic system we'll be using but it will count against uh that fall [Music] you know [Applause] but no problems this time Chloe moving into the last move yeah she's gradually over opting for a healing [Applause] switches to a toe so she's done oh and there is the 24.9 so it doesn't come up immediately it comes up later so yeah just we're working out how some of these Graphics are working too on the screen so you don't get it immediately but it comes when she's topped the boulder out appointment so he crosses through that now someone's asked me about being afraid of falling and I'm sure Chloe might have had a little bit of a a scare with a slip like that especially when they're so unexpected and it can be quite hard to get back on and give it 100 effort but I think I'm more scared in the gym being honest and there's this sort of you know give it everything like no matter what it takes kind of um attitude at a competition where I'll climb past a cliff and and won't be scared at all or I'll just throw myself at a dino as much as possible so I think yes these athletes are human they probably get scared when they go climbing outside because they get scared in the gym but I think there's yeah there's a different atmosphere of competition and these women are willing to give it be everything that's a really good question brother send that because I often what often watching fully from four and a half meters up high up there he looks scary I mean yeah Chloe took quite the fall and all the funds the other day and I'm sure that would have helped her a little bit but yeah strong competitor now we're seeing two athletes out at the same time this is unusual compared to a normal single file uh final score map and again one of those things they're working out but yet Genia is on the right and let's get an Oscar on the left so she really needs a flash this is the first time we're seeing golden number two and it's a big pop-up move to the second Zone it's a long way it's a bit overhanging it's awkward but she finds the Palm straight away Virginia is having a great round so far we can go police get on the left he's coming towards the end of that solder he's got the two zones [Music] cold it's blind amount of corner isn't it so difficult you can see I'm trying to work the body over [Music] [Applause] flash for her perfect start to have come on you can see the thumb working really hard a little bit of a shake maybe she is a little bit fun yeah it's a long time and she is still fighting so much stress and tension through the arms here the foot does not look very good no that frog squat position looks restful it's not trust me that's the final hard it's not the black volume it's the yellow score on top of the glass still fighting matches it controls it that means a lot yeah that was it would have been Heartbreaker to fall off that top Loop have to do with that again we've seen that in previous rounds as well Lisa Lucan matching the wrong bit of the final hole I know I guess you're in you're in the zone and sometimes that can you know you can be so distracted by being so focused in a way that you forget to really check things out like that so there is something underneath yeah I made it through now it's so hard to grade problems like this I get asked all the time how hard you have to climb to climb in a World Cup how hard to World Cup how hard is a world cup holder and honestly I went for a boulder session this morning and there were probably Boulders in the gym that were like harder than what you get on a World Cup wall but like we said earlier it's just the environment the time pressure you know the mental pressure as well makes climbing so much harder yeah and it's something uh you must get asked it's something like outside and also what I would suggest is go to a ballroom wall find something kind of near your limit and then put a timer on it yeah and see what happens it's so much more difficult for sure and often I guess crimes aren't necessarily set to make sense almost they're set to throw people off um so they're tricky because they're they're trying to make people rather than setting it just pure difficulty so Jesse is back on action on Boulder number one and then that's Mia on the right so Jesse is up and going she starts slow and steady and that mental side we talked about will start to play a factor here she knows she can't fall if she wants to keep up with the top four near crumple is underway on this long time to start that Boulder season into the first Zone she'll get that three points to the set it's definitely used it by now hasn't been going up there it is [Applause] n't it [Applause] this is a bit different but it works and goes back to the right foot and has a drop me in order to talk me a cramples on probably the correct move of this this big stand up there's a thought that it's insecure [Applause] Jess is one move away from the top [Music] foreign [Applause] [Music] [Applause] your grandpa snatches flicks the right foot to steady herself matches and that is a Flash and a top for her [Applause] so 50 points scored and the top two women are separated at the moment on their position their ranking coming into this because none of them have fallen if they were to fall we would start to look at the Falls and this is me a crumple look at that laser focused on that sloper so she stands up very slowly and that pop really was fingertip on the right so a flash from her that was good climbing solid from her the flick or that right leg the match up and down she comes that's two out of two or near crample interesting with this is it's funny to see a split screen in the finals we're so used to focusing on one athlete at a time you can see that Jesse's super awkward undercut technique to get into this tote Focus from her and she looks out towards the final hold at the end that that's the Austrian coach giving some encouragement that's the match kind of crossed under doesn't matter how you get there though she did it first time and that's what matters for this looks like it's going to be a case so far anyway that the boulder you just need to keep in contention yeah we just need to get to the top of every Boulder and quickly maybe we'll see the athlete spending a little bit longer on the floor before they get on really refreshing their memory making sure they know exactly how to find out because attempts around yeah they are so Hannah Moyle enters football number one favorite [Applause] and the other Difference by having two athletes climbing at the same time is obviously there's a potential for one of them to see a method on the second Boulder which is again different from another final something that people have pointed out some people are not happy about and again just remember this is sort of a testing event some of this might get worked out for the Olympics because it is something to consider certainly definitely kind of oil then she is underway stands up all right first attempt Starts Now [Music] the only real move that looks unsteady on this Boulder on the right [Applause] stand up just trying to work out which part of the hole to go to and go way to the left it looks easy actually Anna let you said she was good at slab climbing she's cruising this at home every hole just making sure this is probably actually one of the crutches that's putting the crap she weights it talks her foot in and that's a big smile and I think you know the boulders almost get harder for every person that comes out because they know that oh that's another person who's topped that Boulder and probably a flash so the difficulty of the boat if they don't change this as well she's going back down to reassess too far for her to rock all the way over her weight over and end up facing the other way almost oh she does fall and now we start to see this Boulder bite because that took almost two minutes for her to climb it that would have been quite an exhausting little struggle there as well especially on those pinches well she took two minutes to climb it she will have to be quicker on the second time but she will because she'll know the moves but she can't rest that long because every second she rests there'll be less time on the clock and I don't think she's really figured out how to plan section either so she'll have more information about the star but she'll still need to figure out this section and she'll need some time to do that yeah and she's still waiting here as we watch the replays he's having a long look and trying to figure this out but it's only minute and a half on the clock will get climbing please get close so the crowd get behind it I mean it's Wednesday because obviously she's really backing which you can find the bottom first I think she is she's going for her this is the last go and with gold as being a longer it seems like you've only got two good goals of climbing which is I mean imagine having to climb every Boulder that's at your limit in the gym second go Maps yeah absolutely so Camilla stands up put the left foot out and Zone now this has moved again it's got 44 seconds I'll be about I feel like I'm hyping a failure here but it's unusual so far yeah she really is right she's gonna have to work something out she is close though has she figured it out whilst waiting whilst watching sometimes the pressure of the time counting down can actually help people do incredible crazy bits of climbing so hopefully that's the case no she doesn't but she's gonna have to put it to a sequence here and she's flipping she's trying to transition uh six seconds to go that'll be our first non-talk of the afternoon maybe yeah maybe so Camila Maroney doesn't top has gone out 31. so interesting that Boulder may be more difficult than we would have thought at the top down she comes there was a big fall disappointing from her but yeah hard at the end I think definitely are off so there is janya gambra [Applause] it's treated sweet wonderful that won the lead yeah it was her first European Championship box this this week so there's not many petals she needs to finish off the collection [Music] because she's made it clear how much she loves to be challenged physically so this will be a super mentally challenging round her knowing that all the builders have been taught so far and flashed clearly stands up easily big powerful move from her she's good at that yeah cruises through the slab adjustment just getting warmed up right so this is the move that Camila Maroney had issues with so yeah she's working her way but she's managed to transition around that froggy pinch foot hole oh Chloe loves about the showboat sounds good that was really cool to see well she's done good work she stays in intention at the top three and you can see she's got 49.9 and that's because she had one four month the first Boulder the difference between her and genya and Mia who are both on 50 points good memory I was like who have we had there's so much going on I know it's a lot isn't it happens quickly [Music] Larry look at that squinting out she goes to that top hole dancing feet up matches for her no crowded like crowd get going he's actually a pack and it's been growing all week it was rammed for the speed here in the stadium but it's busy today as well it's like climbing sort of got its own hype as the weeks progressed and more people are buying tickets it's even more impressive with this heat this venue is pretty exposed exposed Sun but sheltered here in the country box which is nice until about four o'clock and then the sun blinds us for about two hours just to make you feel sorry for us at home how much you can we have the best view in the house I tell you it's awesome well that was yanya's top we're just watching it on full screen back to the top spins down did work from the Enya we're worried at the beginning of the week sorry not the beginning of the week uh after the lead because she seemed to have a bit of a leg injury but it doesn't seem to affect her at the moment Junior back on she runs to the stage [Applause] yeah true number three is already on board wow we're rolling through so Boulder one is now done done and dusted we move on and that's Elise get on the left and those brushes by the way being saying all week it was a competition at the bowl of wealth gym and whoever you had to paint a brush and whoever Paints the brushes that get used you get free membership for a year or something a month I don't know exactly that's absolutely beautiful I would love to have one of these brushes I know and one of them might fit in hand it goes missing [Music] I think we've had almost [Applause] every bowler has had a four points from one kind of volume star Virginia comes in underneath that's the yellow volume again so that the texture that's shiny in the sun that's got no grip on it's really slippery where her left heel is now you can see it's sliding around [Applause] having a good time by the looks of things and this Boulder definitely looks a bit harder than our previous two years Award of the zone so the judges deemed she used that zone I was about to say I'm not sure if she did but yeah I guess she's changing direction a bit it's marginal that one yeah slow mo doesn't look good no these scores can be uh looked at they can be appealed later on so sometimes we see changes and that's why we have all the coaches sat right in front of the wall with all their iPads [Music] ready to appeal any decisions that they disagree with [Applause] um [Music] that's a very important job and he's a big part of the sport you have to look for it and stick up for your own athletes as well sure and when you're out there climbing you might not you know be in the right you might be so focused on the climate you don't notice on things and you also can't see what everyone else is doing so maybe someone else has been awarded a school that they don't deserve and that's why the coaches are there to take it all in and fight for you it's absolutely vital so eliska stands up and she starts going right I actually enjoy this rooty style Virginia struggled the second time of asking up to the pocket [Applause] when you take his feet off just use your arms to power up with it yeah someone's feet just get in the way of certain moves definitions wrestling with these pictures [Applause] [Music] that's up to the second slope of past the Zone she's closer now but needs to find the left one as well and Pops off that's really physical that means it's so physical and the feet on the left are just facing the wrong way [Applause] yeah and she's quite an emotional primer I'd say you can definitely see exactly how she's feeling on her face yeah some people use that sort of inspiration others like you can see them all just getting held back by that emotion Genia left the stage before the end you don't have to run the clock out if you feel like you haven't got a boulder you can save some skin and some attempts and energy so that's a no-go on that folder so now we're starting to see some separation right yes it's the second time that hasn't been topped both of two and Jenny is the first athlete out Boulder three she doesn't send it so it's certainly harder I think on Bold of three or more different style anyway because her attempt she's trying to find something on that hole they've really chalked up she had that left hammer for a long time as well dropping back into it so that's no that's that's not my left hand that's the one underneath the first one Fashion's close but couldn't couldn't get the body position so this is the slap to the left you can bumped lots of foot before she didn't have the opportunity see her left foot slip and a tiny bit of it was on that shiny bit and you really don't want to stand on the shiny so she waves to the crowd and says goodbye for that Boulder he's got two more to go there's got one more to go that was Boulder three wasn't it yeah already onto the last folder pretty quick so Jesse pilts is out again Amir crample takes on both [Applause] so women have to face the crowd then when the buzzer goes then they're allowed to turn Jesse just reminding herself of which Boulder this is she's climbed so many in the last five days it's a really good point yeah you're dreaming about bowling yeah right so MIA crumble starts this heel hook on that slippy surface and you can see it immediately slid off I think the campus is right that works and then outright underneath pops a foot again [Applause] on the other this is when observation of folders is really useful when you climb in a qualification per folder and you come and you've not seen the boulder until you have your five minutes on it you kind of end up bringing out bags full of shoes and tape and whatnot but when you've seen the bodies you can make all of these choices when you're waiting behind the work so Mia's clearly decided or seen something that she needs her lace up boot for in her left foot and her Velcro on her right made before she came out some of this rocket on the mat sometimes they don't Jesse is into the final part which you know is problematic but look at the Straight From Here clamp as she holds that left sloper yeah she's working her way up explodes out from the wall yeah it's hard to explain it's easy to explain if you're holding a crimp like a sharp edge on a slope it's difficult to generate that power Jesse turning that left hand just nearly fallen off so many times he's still on now should finish it must match does awesome from Jessie that's two out two I think from Jessie yes and then you can see 49.9 oh no she had a fallen near crumple that slap up with the right that's a really powerful move she has got another she's got a minute 44 on the clock so she's got time for Jesse finish things off easily once you've got the body position right brought the right hand from the under cling into the crimp I left foot um [Applause] she likes a little celebration so the thick Fort again wrapping that left leg over just get to a little bit more height [Applause] better now she knows the moves looking more confident [Applause] see how long these Boulders are fast often the athletes just don't carry that for Boulders because it gets in the way of it but she's taking one up this thing and the fact that she's able to [Applause] broken up and sliding I don't think she's gonna have time she calls it so no top for her so just the two zones awarded 56 per score but at the top head of Virginia due to the uh positioning of the final you can see how slipping that shiny bit on that yellow volcano is that was the jump over face the audience eyes focused she was pretty relaxed she really does yeah but no effort at all but it is physical and a slap left into the sloper came off now I'd say Camilla is a quite a powerful climber so I'm really interested to see how she gets all Disturbed [Music] there's not a lot no and the slope has depend on a lot of friction between well the hold and people's skin and I'm sure these women won't have a bunch of skin so there'll be so much harder to hold I think it's hard Memorial about holding the bag on one finger too strong this actually does it's just shopping on one finger oh yeah well I try that get ready right as the audience gets sprayed with water to combat the heat Hannah Moyle is out as is Camila Maroney has a look I think she's gonna come because now she's not falling okay so she's got to start and she's got a camera oh no no and she's awesome she's got to be a canvas she sets up thugs her way up to it that does look a bit easier it does but because the bit that you actually hold is so small the accuracy you've got to be so accurate on a move like this and it's hard to be actual when you're just pulling with your arms [Music] [Applause] so she's underway hanum oil needs to stand up into this familiar position we've seen trusting that left foot on the slow pop [Applause] music there the Press she went to the uh the crimp I think that even leaked yeah we've not seen this Virginia but genuine for a bit of a combination so slightly different from Hannah Mall she goes right that must be really sniffy I said it wasn't a wrestle position it kind of demonstrated that there tricky Camino Moroni came down as well [Applause] doesn't need that undercling right foot left foot up right hand left foot up and a match another top for Hannah Moyle keeping things perfect quite a wild method on this yeah it's really hard to coordinate quite a long way away from it as well I just realized it as she spuns you can see the half see it out of her peripherals was gone for almost a swingy method but then it's quite fast she'll need to do a bit of pulling in that when she pulls with her arm she then kind of almost makes but doesn't quite get the distance yeah how she held up as long as she did is pretty special see that right hand she blocked as well I don't even know what muscles you use to hold herself onto was it shoulders is it what I was crazy this is kind of successful attempt [Music] [Applause] it's actually matched those holes we're getting more and more chalked up into the crimp easily from her slightly different method from Jesse pilts and that smile we're so used to when we see Hannah topping out of older again she gets it done and comes down and Camilla has 47 seconds to get this done what's this wild move will she have the distance this time she does swing and just can't quite work out it looks like she's going for another try and she's not gonna have a lot of time here she has only got the first zone so perhaps going for that six points on the second which he might have time for I'm super impressive [Music] and then she's in better this time now we'll want this Zone I think it might be all she can get yeah it's the water let's see I think they will on that I think they will she pretty much drops off that was purely to get the zone yeah well there we go look you talked about tactics that is a tactic you see yes definitely and it paid off had it not I don't know had she not got that second Zone it might have been just tiring out tiring her out for no reason but it was definitely worth it to get that second Zone yeah so six points on that one it's it's really interesting because usually I think she would have walked away and said look it's not going to happen we haven't got enough time yeah so we see maybe the first change in how the athletes approach it with this new system and she is into that zone that was enough as she knew the second she pulled up on it she was done that was it so we've got just Yankton Boulder two left Chloe's up and folder three I haven't been looking uh quite a Stony face there as they came out maybe the pressure [Applause] an exciting opportunity for Chloe to get the first stop on this folder yeah I think it's her kind of thing isn't it another very powerful athlete straight on the wall I didn't really have much of a look up foreign [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] maybe the way the room set is intended that's certainly what they were doing yesterday when I watched some testing yeah of course Chloe goes with a foot into the pocket first which will control the move but I wonder if she's got any space to actually get her hand in that hole now I don't think she does he's gonna have to drop it as she comes across a very awkward match and as we saw earlier that hole is blocked so there will not be space for two hands there oh there's enough look at that I'll be quiet while she hits the right-handed she's gonna have to match again so I wonder if this method really has saved how much energy yeah not that efficient but yanya tops out Boulder two that's a flash [Applause] now the reason that yanya isn't at the top of the scoreboard is because she hasn't done that folder three yet so we're really only gonna know when the dust settles on Boulder number four where we're at I'm sure there's mathematicians out there working it out oh we're looking at a little bit tired now she's still on the same she's still on the same attempt so this would definitely be a too expensive folder for Chloe but she's still fighting that's the zone for her this is her Boulder if she can pull it off yeah put in oh no she can't though she looks like she gave it she's surprised second she came down I mean that's a long time to be on a boulder two minutes try climbing for two minutes on a boulder in your local gym there's usually it's a couple of seconds yeah it's a really good point yeah geez well well that's the difference again we're seeing and that right hand that Chloe went up to the chalk you can see is on the underside of it which means that you're not really holding but more pushing and pressing just want to point out there's a break in the beach volleyball that's next to us and pretty much everyone is watching from the beach volleyball [Applause] Arena yesterday a day before yesterday the speed climbing was awesome just picking up our sport here a bit yes I am biased I don't care it's been crazy walking around with all the other athletes and walking by the volleyball players and them being about two of me yeah I keep trying to spot which athletes in which sport it's quite hard to do yeah so Chloe had a long rest [Applause] first move this is interesting because whereas Camila hadn't got the Zone Chloe does have the zone so only a top really is going to be worth it yeah for sure and she clearly thinks which is cool yeah that method she originally did for a long time but she swapped it she has swapped it so different method and now this move is a bit trickier because of the position she's in um five seconds though oh not much time unless you have to go immediately she doesn't so a long burn but the double Zone coaches yeah [Applause] thank you it's quite impressive that Chloe changed her method and nailed it first time yeah really well to kind of persevere with the first to make sure she got those Zone points and then to recognize that oh maybe that wasn't the most efficient or the best way of doing this and kind of come up with it on the Fly pretty quick as well so this was the first attempt with the foot and then matching it and that's why I said there wasn't any space it really didn't look like there was and we're back to yanya this time so that was Chloe this is yanya slash that Boulder out to the crimp match and the only hasn't really tried yet she might have to on Boulder three it's very cool to see a talk from her though so jenya is back and we get to see Boulder four for the first time and at least get will be on Bold at three now as a lead climber this is a more bouldery Boulder yeah I'm not sure this is Elisha's style preferred style as such but as we saw Chloe kind of tech it out I do think that maybe Elisha could try something similar I'm sure you don't need that big physical move you don't have to but will she try a campus I think she's gonna try to get her feet on she goes big four so obviously they've read it like that they're showing that the figure is quite a tricky method actually trying both ways so I think she would have known that the other women that's the method they were going to try so she gave a really good go there but didn't seem to be her thing yeah [Music] and you're trying to get a tow hook to stop her falling maybe due to the new format So when you say coordination what do you mean by that so I mean moves that are less static where you have to move more than one limb body part at the same time so as we can see then he's going with a hand and foot at the same time and it's all about timing momentum body positioning she wasn't looking at that foot at all as well and I think that's one of the trickiest things about coordination moves is that there's so much going on but you really you can't look everywhere at the same time so it's a case of kind of choosing where to focus so at least gets through that first sequence and it's actually looking really good here look look at that method speaking out every scum [Applause] [Music] there's your eyes up this but this is a powerful move and she might not have the energy let's see she's got boost up towards it with the right hand as well gets it just with the fingertips Henry took that agenda but she's through that first move and once you learn the coordination moves it does tend to be a bit easier second time third time oh this is too back to back I was wondering if we'd see this with the two zones and yeah you've got that right hand left toe hook catch combination into a jump into a left-hand palm and a right hand side for these hole Yeah that's as complicated as yeah but it's really it's good that you said it like that it just shows how much is going on yeah and if you think about how hard it is to say it imagine how hard it is to do it yeah exactly well let's watch this so she's got that lefto then bumps the right and then this is the move you're kind of talking about yeah [Applause] and there's a foot plant as well who has three parts to that complex movement here I guess one of the good things you could say in this the coordination Moves In This format is that you can have more goes there's more chances to learn the movement and you know once you do it once it is generally a lot easier to repeat it because your body kind of has felt a position a lot of the time when I'm trying to you know piece these moves together I'll pull into the Final End position of the move and that's a really good guide as to where you need to get to and then you sticks the second coordination move and is this a third coordination move they've really gone all out on this folder yeah nice a bit more basic but still okay by that point your brain is just frazzled you don't want to do any more of that which is going to top out she is psyched Huawei to finish her Bowl around yeah we're even strong from her so she'll move into the lead in a brilliant position and elisio's still going on her climb if she has time 25 seconds and this is the first time she's been got the second Zone and just getting a bit too bunched but she bumps up the standings and this is going to be really important for her because as more of a lead climate she's got that to come yeah so she's got her best to come so this is kind of just collecting as many points and trying to keep up with the rest of the pack too many limbs in a small box there's genius top so three coordination moves in a row and so difficult to learn that because you've got to learn it get the sequence down get the movement get it into your body and then do it every time three times in a row every time [Applause] that is a textbook coordination folder that's your ABC of coordination climbing yeah that last move you see quite a lot in gyms you know that right hand left hand yeah all the other ones are so complicated yeah for sure but they are becoming more commonly set in gyms I would say and there is really cool to see like new climbers doing attempting moves like this for someone like me who's uh been climbing for a couple of years now it's uh it's not something I'm used to doing but you guys you've kind of grown up doing this I don't know I feel like I was a little bit before this I feel like I've still got a lot to learn but it's definitely the younger kids and you know they're 16 18 year olds coming through would have grown up with this being the main style um of competition buildering yeah and it's interesting watching them take it into outdoor rock climbing as well yeah going climbing with my teammate maximiln outside he's like I just want to make every rock Boulder concert yeah I want a paddle that I know everything I like Max we're climbing a rock we just crimp it out like the rest of us easy campus move to Jesse another strong athlete decides to do for this trip perception such good coordination in that as well I mean we've got these crazy coordination moves which are more obviously coordination but even figuring out which way to flick your hips or when to flip your hips when to move the arm there's coordination to move like that as well this is a flash attempt as well oh interesting trying to double bomb that right hand near cramble is trying the coordination moves on the final climb now this is with coordination this is where we might see more of a split in attempt probably more and so we'll get more decimal points taken away yeah and that led up towards the end and remember this isn't Standalone lead is next I think we have a bit of a break before that starts break for the athletes as well just using one of those painted brushes just the angle of the head on those to uh more accurately brush the bit you want to brush I don't know why you want to know that back at home if you don't know about climbing there you go that's what happens that's what MIA crab pulls out coordination with here I've done the first one second harming down with that left hand nicely done by Mia and lining up the verb right this is easier by this point she's tired she's done enough and he doesn't want to do it again drops in and catches it from here you'd think it would be a fairly easy move to the top let's see [Applause] and she enjoyed that so she is the toe to stop herself another she was swinging off there yeah yeah and as we can see it took her less attempts than genya and that's why she's top squat with 80.9 points foreign [Applause] shoulder press to hold that oh no tries the same looks a bit confused what do they want from me yeah and she's got two zones so again she'll have to figure out whether she can actually do that top yeah still on the maps it's interesting it's not against the nature of the climate to stop is it but she does look away office at the moment sometimes it can be really hard to walk away because you know you're so used to just trying and trying and trying until you succeeds and obviously you want to walk away at the top but sometimes you know maybe the right choices yeah so strong as your campuses up easily to the pocket yeah we've got 20 seconds on the clock out to the crimp the zone is there it's already been awarded you won't get more score for that 10 seconds this is going to be snatch and grab and go seven one move away come on Jesse no it's not gonna be enough and I think she's kind of figured it out now slapping the nuts and frustration I think she realized it would allow her to slap into that left-hand sloper here we see it left foot goes and then maybe a rushed move out left oh heels down yeah so she may have figured it if she'd had another minute but isn't always the case just one more time one more so two more athletes on Bowl are three to go that's hanamoyle and yanyagambre [Music] and there was near Granville celebrating at the top awesome from her [Music] so we pan down and it is animal and Camila Maroney our next two off she goes onto the stage the hose pipe man is doing Sterling work down there [Applause] it turns and has a look at this she's good at these kind of power moves Camila Maroney will have to start the process of figuring out the coordination secrets on that level volume she had the accuracy there high up on the whole where she needed that left foot to be Hannah cruised that bottom move made it looks difficult yet [Applause] [Music] wraps a palm around as much skin as possible we'll get the six points you can do a really technical climber maybe she'll figure out the body position to make these switches [Applause] [Applause] [Music] well we had a quick start but I think it's sort of opened up here yeah and it's a bit more interesting than just those flashes at the beginning so it was worth holding on to hope you're patient at home and welcome if you're just joining us we're at European champs for the women's Boulder and Lead competition my name is Matt Groove and I'm here with Molly Thompson Smith in the commentary box and we are coming up towards the end of the boulder part of this final the athletes qualifying from the single event that took place earlier on in the week only the top eight made it through this far we're having our first real look at the Olympics format that might be used in Paris 2024 so you're a climbing geek or if you're new to the sport this is a fascinating thing to watch Camilla controlling that release onto the first Zone this time still resting it out she's only had one go on it she thinks she's figured out enough needs to milk the rest see her shaking her arms trying to get some of that pump out getting yourself ready to go again [Applause] I once heard uh something that may not be true but I'm going to say anyway which is if you're climbing set bouldering or limit you need maybe five to six minutes in order to get that recovery back so it just makes you realize how Harvey's will have to go I was gonna say [Applause] exactly but it just shows the level you have to sort of fight through let's say you need at least six minutes in order to get that recovery they just don't have that time you have to go when you're not necessarily ready no and this is where I'm not nice this is where maybe being a lead client might have its benefits [Music] like to handle more moves in a row recovery yeah it's a good point especially with the longer Boulders that we're seeing for sure foreign Nation move she's frustrated animal to her left this is her last attempt should have got six seconds [Music] [Applause] no she's not so no top for Hannah but two zones which is what she needed that's pretty much that is what everyone's got I think so Yani gamra is the final climber out on Boulder three Before We Say Goodbye To That will be almost towards the end of this and I think nyani will be really looking forward to this Boulder yeah when doesn't she the only government you think after winning so many comps Mike perhaps be a bit over it but and people someone said to me today in fact is it not boring watching you and you win all the time and I was like no look it's like watching Michael Schumacher or you know like Roger Federer in his absolute prime and one of the coolest things is it might never happen again that's true she really is one in a million almost yeah and we're in her era we get to watch it yeah it's super cool you win you know everyone else is chasing it's so I think it's easier to chase than it is to be in the lead it's hard not to get complacent but yanya definitely doesn't and she's just so driven and so passionate about climbing always wanting to be better and push the sport further for all of us and herself yeah the thing is is I don't have to chase it you do and I can't imagine how that is it's so funny when we go training and the guys are like that and I can't even touch it I'm like yes this is why I have to compete against guys but it is totally inspiring really really cool to see what's possible yeah well she's got to get zones though on this two she needs if she's gonna keep in touch so important if this order is possible yeah it's very hard at the top and no one really has offered a solution to you Chloe so yeah you're out it's easy through the first couple of moves [Applause] one armed away through that spin yeah she is this is where she needs to start working he drops that foot I'm just gonna smash yeah and you want to move away oh she had to work hard for that but there you go and she is psyched The Crowd Goes Wild I think people are banging on the Stars yeah they're drumming their feet oh that's not here it sounds like thunder in the distance but that's what it is 75 points for Anya this was it just eyed it up and it was just stuck to it there was no real movement all I can think of the sound as she kind of hits it that's all I was thinking about very satisfying swap wouldn't it the weird stuff in my head when I'm watching this sometimes and this is the final move the hell of it beautifully out thumb pressing on the slippery surface and yeah who could still achieve that perfect run with 100 points yeah are we going to see a hundred that's her aim to get a 200 points total for the whole competition in the overall world ranking she's yeah and you know technically a world record of worlds first as well with a new story system and to make it through to this um today's competition she was first place of 2 000 points so crazy to be over there from Chloe seem to go for a right-hand Palm instead of the left like all the other women we've seen I think yeah there you go she almost stuck it as well but with the left hand being not a joke not a really good hold there's so much rotation is not quite got the strength in the left hand fold it Chloe wincing a bit she brings the left foot up as you would because it's a long stretch back on already yeah it's got a minute 20. so let's see if she can figure out the second time [Applause] she almost holds it I think that's the problem with these Almost Pretty coordination moves you have a go it feels possible and it's hard to stray away from that really especially when you've not got much time to figure it out yeah because these athletes don't get the privilege of having a TV screen back in the uh area they wait this is on site for that one on it was like I always get confused better someone's like a flash on site yeah it's still on site they haven't been told how to do it yeah for sure either so Chloe bumps right interesting how she does that move as well not quite as dynamic as the others and now this does so shouldering the same way [Music] this would be a very quick speed talk I guess she's just going for that second Zone Point yeah she hasn't got it yet only one needs to come together now for her if she wants the second Zone she's gonna try the same method and now she tries the method we've seen success realizes the error in her way frustration [Applause] yeah so no second zone for Chloe she knows her score it's going to be mid-pack for her going into the lead would that be now this was yanyu's Flash and just a flash everyone and no one else has done this Yani just flashed it just want to make that very clear up to the top bumped thumb pressing in matched it to control wasp again there are was wasps that keep cropping into the shop Sam Avenue almost had a wasp into them with Buzz around his head doing a boulder and I keep seeing them they're out there again as yanya tops out great work from her big fist bump putting herself in a great position still had a really good run doing really well so at least get runs out now we go back to having just one athlete on the stage because of course we've run out of boulders so this is a bit more like a traditional vinyl from now on for the last couple of minutes of this five o'clock is the scheduled time for the lead so there'll be a bit of a pause after this if you're wondering when to have a tea break that's it needs to get out almost got the toe having one of those classic testicles where you're lining up the move just feeling how much you need to give whereabouts the holder getting closer maybe just bring that tote a little higher up the holes most of the other girls which is currently down at the bottom so she would like to get at least two zones on this to cut us up in a better position she does stick it third time rubber on the top of her climbing shoes helping with that move she spots the method straight away and has a really good first go at that move good work has immediately bumped her up above Camila Maroney by getting that zone now it doesn't matter if you touch a Zone hole the important part of the Zone hold and to secure the points from it is that you need to hold it and use it so that might mean lifting a foot up once you've held in or moving your hips up and so as we saw anishka touched that zone hole but didn't quite control it so she won't be given that those points just yet and that is something that changed quite recently used to be that you could just touch it get away with it or maybe just I remember judge telling me if they watched the tendons go on your arms they'd give it not anymore she gets through that first move but slips going over that's the worst feeling when you're climbing isn't it when a foot pops like that it's always when you give it a lot of energy as well and it's not always just a straight slip because sometimes I think it's easy for people to be like oh it's a slip and that was it but it's sometimes to do with the way you're moving or positioning yourself or how tired you are yeah slips happen for a reason sometimes I think I wish he just wants to get back to that move again and so she's probably not climbing super carefully anymore and you know getting tired getting more frustrated it all adds and it all builds and it means that you know you might not put your foot in exactly the right position where it needs to be and on Boulders like this the smallest margin for subtleties are really important and that was a really nasty fall she came down Molly's question from someone about fear of falling well see how she deals with this the second time I'm sure she'll feel that tomorrow yeah this is the last time that these women would form a Boulders they're going to give you everything in this comp anyway spinning down that's not enough one minute on the clock she still hasn't got that final Zone looking at her skin falling off like this where the hands just slip out of the holes it takes so much skin [Applause] yeah those fingers rubbing off down with the left so eyes up the jump [Applause] you can see movement getting a bit more frantic a bit more desperate yeah is it in her head here tired now shaking the head desperately wants these six points you know without doing it we'll probably get a up the leaderboard if she does so it is important but now I think she's gonna finish it well she gave it everything in those last couple of seconds but don't Despair and if you're a fan of her because she has got her best discipline coming up next that lead just one goal in lead competitions before so she's got potential definitely World Cup winner from Brown song last year yeah last year Jesse pelts out to the coordination Boulder lost three athletes on the final Boulder here [Music] [Applause] is he poops gets a big reaction from the German crowd Innsbruck fairly close to Munich and sometimes get the feeling to the Australian athlete he's been adopted by the German crowd [Music] she's in sick at the moment oh going all the way back but making it work and taking a right hand down to control that release really good idea how impressive is near Campbell and jenya kazbakova still at the top Club Jesse going for the same method as Chloe we'll see if she sticks with it yeah really good separation so far yeah we were a little bit worried off those two Boulders went quickly at the beginning but it's turned into a good Compass yeah I had a coordination bouldering and you'll split the field especially one with four coordination moves back to back yeah it's a bit much if you ask me but you know by Jesse back on the wall [Applause] it's got the first one easily yeah oh slow release there with that left foot you can see creeping down scratching your body and she's figured it out much quicker than Chloe and she knows that that's the method really impressive that she was able to switch so quickly so so instinctive um to know that oh maybe this wasn't didn't feel the right way so I'm gonna try something different Jesse pulls back on once more got lots of time somebody didn't look quite right there because he wasn't set then now is you can see she went much further down and left to get enough momentum to throw herself towards the right that time [Music] so that's the two really hard moves done and she's got the six point Zone she's gonna try and control this clue so I think she's realized that it's easier to just pop to it like that it's a long way to walk around the corner around that volume it's really important that you squeeze as much as you can with that left hand but oh and she goes to the top of that finisher makes it work yeah I was waiting for the toe to come in but she didn't need to use it to stop that swing and that's got her up into second position which is perfect for her because she's a very strong lead climber as we saw the other day coming home with a silver medal silver medal yeah great work from Jesse pills because if we presume and this is presuming of course that yanya is going to climb this Boulder then that'll be yany at the top then me then Jesse Yeah top three which puts her in a really good position coming up soon trying to work out who's a better lead climber in my head it's like on paper Jesse beats me a cramp or paper on paper but then Anything Can Happen really and I guess that's why climbing is so exciting I said when I came into this fight I was like I'm not going to make predictions because I know I looked like an idiot I want predictions okay well that's yeah okay all right we'll get predictions at the end all right we'll do that in a minute a certain he really is it's so much different from a from a single comp you start thinking one step ahead yeah [Applause] of course I've got about hanum oil because she could also jump to the top of this leaderboard that's true so much going on she's got 25 points she could gains on this folder yeah so here we go eyes up the first move a little bit of a backwards turn just for some style points there you can see how flexible Hannah is reaching down going further into the split [Applause] completely controlling that release yeah that's a lot harder than she just made it look yeah oh nearly got it first time as well on that it's to herself knows she can do this move yeah there's a bit of luck in a mood like this isn't there because you do just need to hit the right Point perfectly because why flash is a bit less likely of course you've got to have the skill to do it in the first place but if you're all at that level then yeah sometimes you just don't get it on an attempt so much you can learn from trying the move and I think that's why it's really hard to flash these moves but then you know like Hannah just easily does this first move again yeah it didn't need that adjustment the second time exactly [Applause] so chalks up Gets Ready has she learned definitely ours so smooth this move we know is a bit easier she does get it but the last move is tricky static it out and I was wondering if anyone would do this but there you go no hesitation for Hannah North we saw that early on I think all right so now on paper I know we could go round and round fantastic all around for Hannah if she runs off and we've got the fees which way she went there and they've corrected herself went the right way okay so Hannah Moyle great from her once she just just the speed that she learned that movement was amazing sure a very natural mover he comes so naturally to her and she learns real quick and I think that's one of the most important skills for being a really good folderer I like the fact that this Boulder especially is is the sequence through the bottom section is fairly similar for all of them but that top move can be done in different ways yeah and I like how Progressive it is people go try something like oh maybe not that or maybe I need to give it a little bit more in this direction and for most people we've seen them get higher and higher which is which is pretty cool so good work from Hannah Moore she wears to the crowd final athlete final Boulder enjoying that spray cooling off in the heat hasn't got any cooler up there I thought the clouds were going to come in at one point but they're sort of gone now still very shade and here is gone Brett she is out so she's obviously sitting in fifth position from Fashion City in fifth position having not done the final five yeah pretty good going already and I wonder if we'll see that perfect 100 points it's a big ask isn't it it is four coordination moves coordination but if there's anyone who can do it right let's see come on yeah see if we can get a first perfect score with a new Decimal System shall we really matter but it would be cool to see so she gets the first one first time earlier coordination move but this is the tricky one see which way she goes like what happened at this company hold her back there yeah straight down to her coaches as well still holding her back that's a bit worrying so well I was just yet I think I really hope because yanya can be a bit too tough for her own good sometimes but you rarely see her in pain but she must back on the wall already so I should be definitely getting treatment for that in a bit it's the hook [Applause] thing is you'll know as well but injuries like that sometimes you just have to get going quickly because your body will then start to freeze up a bit and that time she just jumped so much higher into that move you could see her arm was in a 90 degree and here we are super easy a little Shake of the head so almost a perfect score 99.9 for yanya gambra great from her she leaves the stage still obviously a bit with that back and I think there's a bit that she doesn't really want to show how hurt she is as well such a big factor in priming club's skin people look at you like you're an alien when you say it and because it's like trying to drive in front of your own car on banana skins that's a great analogy all right so we got our first look at Boulder number one now you can see each limp and one of those blue holes so you have to control the stop position and then so you see his body isn't moving so there we go he's Patrol underweight the judges will stop him if they don't think he's begun in the correct way an awkward beginning this pushing up using heels and toes to try to get stood up on that initial volume it's that left foot backwards you know he has to be slow up to this Zone which is dual text or no textures no taxes yeah no tax yes he's got a little balance possibly a little like coordination move to plant the foot across right so once he's in he then needs to sort of jump hop to the left and coordination I mean look surely it's all coordination so how is this a different kind of a move yeah I guess that's a good point actually it's uh I guess any time that like three or more points will kind of leave the wall you're kind of and you've got to reconnect with the wall Very quickly then so limbs moving in different directions what we will call the coordination move I guess yeah yes you're right I guess any move for you going slightly faster has an element of coordination yeah it's hard to uh be uncoordinated and be a pro climber they're so talented and remember we're not only watching the world's best but these Boulders are very difficult really tricky and it's the time that plays such an important factor and you can see it ticking away on the right hand corner the athletes only have four minutes to try to work out the secrets for these crimes immediately let's see if he can do the second time so he's decided not to use that person hold at all now um inside it was hindering his progress more than anything but once you've held it once then that's it you have the zone yeah and the uh you can see the 5.9 that's because he has six points and minus one for the failed attempt and now that will change to 24.9 so a top which is worth 25 minus 0.1 great work that's a great start from him right that looks like Ebola that's gonna be held to do first go yeah it is and it's interesting when that happens because it's hard for the first go but you kind of need to get it as quickly as possible to lock that movement in especially if we know that you can do its second coat let's watch this this is a successful attempt The Hop the little flick back with the leg Yeah just to kill up rotation out of the heel hooked in stands up into that 25 points so good work from mejd and that was just settle him down a little bit won't it a little bit a little bit as settle as uh wedgie gets yeah exactly oh here we really fired up for this [Applause] [Music] has had a very very good competition at the moment as well although he was only 23rd in the lead he was second in the boulder comp and is such a powerful strong climber and good at these style moves I'll be right he's won a lot of Youth comments I think right yeah I mean he's been there kicking around on the youth scene for a while starting to move into the senior circuit this year especially in the boulder but yeah in his last I mean he won the Continental cup uh oh yeah in Austria so he's he's used to winning and he's just making this transition into the senior circuit and doing well at the moment so he's pushing up with that left hand Palms down line for the foot using the knee and again the sides of these volumes that he's put on are all no texture nothing to help him get off it's a little leg power on the leg and hip so he's been awarded the Zone already you can now ignore that move on kicks and he does do this move first time so if he can finish this off he's going to be jumping above emergency shout score straight away but there's a difference [Music] oh the root set is said to me that they hope they don't find an edge well I think an edge has been found [Applause] and you can see his score of 25 no fools and therefore is the perfect score full 25 points for him from the perfect start to his follow-up competition jump over to that flick with the right leg to Halt that swing and then look at this right underneath thumbnail underneath the hole oh whatever it takes yeah true oh yeah both those cringing here in the commentary box well Philip shank is our next athlete out so Italy your support is clapping here as he comes out has a little look over turns and just re-reads this Boulder I've been a while since we've seen it yeah he'll want to take a little deep breath before he falls onto this so I just calm your nose I'm talking about pressure as we go on people have known that the other athletes have talked it out by the crowd sounds so and also the fact that they come back in quickly yeah yeah they didn't use the full four minutes so the pressure is on and it will carry on increasing for the other athletes if Phillip manages to do it as well so although there's no texture on it you don't really need to pull on it it's just touching the left foot is helps you balance just a little bit skated down that's the surface with that left foot [Music] respect it was almost added as a oh we need a first Zone yeah it's one of the first times we're using this system up two zones we did have it in Barcelona for a test event way back at the beginning of the year this is the first time we're really seeing it with all of the international athletes I feel like not making it work that first time impressive Sam Adams these flash was yeah it's really impressive I think the key to the move is to stay so close to the wall and then just whip that leg around to kill the rotation so Sam sorry Philip Sheikh needs to get this now in order to stay in touch with that first and second position creeps upwards you can't pop up through that zone hole and yeah Sam sort of ignored it oh sorry not Sam uh [Music] Philip is using it again one out carry a lot of momentum getting a little bit too fast it's very easy to say from the comfort of the commentary base but give us a joy of this job we can tell them what they're doing wrong from afar they're gonna have a go at us later on so a bit too much speed so how do you slow a movement down though if you're sort of swinging through the air uh the initial movement so it's kind of more I guess the first part of the cartwheel [Music] quoted me on his Instagram the other day so that initial move needs to be slower if you're starting off a bit fast into it so let's watch this epcv makes the adjustment yeah and the coaches although they can shout things it's hard to a hear them so we have to work this out for himself as the minute Mark comes up [Music] [Applause] [Music] looks like a big lead up to it and the way he ran back to his chalkboard you can sometimes tell with an athlete thinks he's figured it out he's like oh that was it yes and he looked quite enthusiastic when he came back straight on [Applause] also running out of time 20 seconds [Applause] out a job fan so that's no top I think to fail to get to the end he's got to do some work on the others now to make that up yeah so now although The Score says three you will get minus points before those attempts that will show up at the end that's why it displays attempt that you get that zone so you'll still have three for this [Music] so awesome work from Philip but not quite enough to get in the top so he goes yeah onto the stage waves to the crowd yeah Jesse Phillips [Music] [Applause] yesterday yeah second place yeah sorry yes I'm watching Jesse I mean it was so good to see her back and again another one really experienced out there somebody in case you're still getting a little bit of flexibility [Music] especially for like to have moves [Applause] away as well positions [Music] goes again dig into his experience Banks find a way [Music] and then gets stood up yeah sometimes height can be an advantage sometimes a disadvantage it just depends on the crime itself it changes the way you have to do some moves [Applause] [Music] [Applause] a little bit [Applause] 5.9 being displayed [Applause] the heel underneath and that is the 12 25 score minus that attempt to the top easy to get excited enough and just push yourself off the finishing holes really about to calm himself down there [Music] adrenaline flying around and that's the leap out to the left really had to bring that right foot all the way through touch the volume slightly difficult you missed out the kind of intermediate holes and just went for the full big hop well full commitment from him he's got a good score definitely in touch as that first Boulder is done and now the men's individual event Nikolai who's Nick will come out and medley shark is in action on Boulder number two and like I know single event finals we're having two athletes climbing at the same time and there's been a bit of chat about whether the athletes can sort of learn something by looking at the other climate whilst they're going and if that's an advantage or disadvantage and it's one of those things we might tweak and change as we move this yeah I always say to the athletes that if you're looking at another athlete or another problem then you're not focusing on one in front of you so stop it but yeah that's a good point yeah I guess on the way back to isolation then potentially there is a chance to have a look oh what's that what's the next folder but you can't then I think they're always taking them off to the left of the world they could be on or they're coming from the right side to the right hand side like a snapshot isn't a lot anyway so magically comes down trying to get the tow hook in it's quite a tricky first move they're going to kind of Kick the right foot out and underneath the hole Yeah again a little coordination Maybe so it's hand and foot at the same time in this case so Nikolai as well couldn't make that that's that intermediate hold David's talking about that uh that Jacob missed so they're just almost use him as a guide just to help me go again [Music] now this is the big move to the pinches he's got burso looks like he's running let's go live all right so that's what you scored he said he's in the two close pinches he's gone out with the right questions that's awarded the zone as well see how hard [Music] underneath perhaps it's hard to see I don't think there is flat and it does drop the Top bringing the hands into match so I know he did get two hands on that it wasn't the body control on it I think it needs to be stable [Applause] Nikolai manages the jump to the left again just slowing down that movement making it work the top it does it slowly oh he's gone on top of the thing in the house three things move it's not easy and Nikolai gets the 25 minus the one attempt to the top he claims to be terrible at slabs yeah we basically won the European championships on two slabs his excuse is gone you can't put that anymore so imagine he's left by himself as we come to a minute and a half left on this bowl that looks around the corner trying to work out the sequences and this is that last hole it's just coming in with the match I think he'll probably do it this time we'll make that little I guess minutes so shaking out and timing is so important isn't it how do you train these athletes too time properly because it's difficult to know how long to rest and then we need to actually start climbing yeah I guess it's just a feeling from doing these things and you need to learn your body and you know how you feel in this situation is starting coming out of time [Applause] do I leave myself [Music] [Applause] [Music] yeah let's see if you've got it right if you come up to 35 seconds it's already got the Zone points out of the big jump right and left all right oh God snaps towards that penchant he just rushed up pushed that match in a little bit probably they might have a little screen go okay you have to really motor here in 17 seconds so majdi will have to be very Dynamic to get this done in the time 10 seconds the movie fell on gets it this time five four is gonna have to be so quick on the final match goes out three seconds and it was just a little too rushed at the end another five seconds so imagine you're a little disappointed just the two zones for him at least unlike an old semi-final now he's now got 15-20 minutes to calm himself down and reset and get the adrenaline about the system from that he was never quite on it was he the good effort right at the dying end of his round there and this was nikolai's top jumps over with the left two hand movements and then just calms himself down once he's got the slap reaches up it's just a thumb thumbnail again I mean I'd ask you how to train that but there's not a lot you can do is there athletes do they trade on well I mean I've seen four millimeter edges used I haven't seen anything smaller than that no I don't think so the four millimeters is pretty vicious on the fingers trying to pull up on a four millimeter Edge right Alberto Hines Lopez the Olympic champion runs out and interestingly he's the only one in this field who's competed in this exact format because he won the Barcelona test event so he's a bit more experience which I play a huge part that might just give him a bit of confidence coming into this he's underway with that press up and it's very smooth I think he might like this one So Into The Zone we get the points for that as he uses it [Applause] was well as well same perfectly oh and Sammy's both ways to work [Music] [Applause] that's the tow hook in Alberto Falls Sam's on for a flash here matches the slippery surface and now he's got to underneath this one in there's that match body position thing isn't it you've got your if you've got all the way on your feet and then you let go of that left hand you're always falling the foothold also pushes you leftwards which makes it even more powerful they're already bicepe grab so Sam brushes the hole and Alberto is back on the boulder he's learned from that first attempt [Applause] he hasn't quite then he's getting closer almost held back it's not bringing that right foot round and the flick as much as the others did he lands with the left eye is coming round yeah I mean the body was coming with it so that's kind of such a flat hole that you're hitting when you land but as soon as your body comes down slide out of it yeah as soon as you come from right to left it just opens up opens up your hand and that's when you peel off look how physical that is right hand is is it totally no text under there yeah it wraps around quite a lot is up and standing [Applause] all right it's one of those new friends that feels so easy why have I falling off this three times [Applause] and now we know that this move is tricky it's got a sting in the tail [Music] will be an action and matches it was actually falling off that move yet but [Applause] standing on one leg what grade is that yeah it's easy so Sam Avenue jumps up to these thin pinches making that move look really simple this is the final part of this folded it's hard no one topping it out at the moment crosses through that's a tote there's rubber across on top of his shoes that helps with that move is he kicks right yeah it's quite hard it seems like the same move there wasn't a lot he did differently so is it just a sort of a physicality in that in that movement he's not quite getting right or do you think he should be justified it's a really high undercut like you're taking that quiet face yeah so there's a whole lot more than bicep in there as well yeah that's a good point I mean imagine doing a bicep curl at your head that's a really good example that is the hole you can see it's half no text and there is a texture at the back French coach which goes Nico januelle and he really goes through it with his athletes he's always really emotional with him Alberto once again the nail move at the end celebrations from Alberto he gets the job done [Music] foreign [Applause] [Music] [Applause] didn't get the top on Boulder number one so he's got a little bit of work to do second line [Music] that one's really had a lot of trouble with this move it might have looked a bit yeah it's a little bit vitals [Music] [Applause] if you put it in your local time in general I've seen the end of it so Philip goes up to the narrow pinches I'm interested it's funny that we watch them read The Roots backstage for such a long time and athlete comes out and does something totally different for everyone else I think after all that discussion it'll have the same idea but sometimes it changes on the boulder though doesn't it yeah you just have an instinct oh this feels right and you've got to try it and fully commit to that whatever it is that you've decided and maybe they underestimated looking at it and viewing they were talking about what the two by the three [Applause] it's certainly doable five of them getting it done he treats see how he does if you bring it right leg straight it looks like it opens up your body more at the end yeah take your hips out from the walls and then you have to rotate background at the end it was interesting when the athletes change their beta it's halfway through this now so he was gonna do it this is almost time yeah again I'm feeling depends how close he feels like you might be like Oh I'm gonna stick that now stick with it not working and one of the other athletes they can't see how the others have done it so it's not like they can learn foreign about it with some people [Applause] so Philip Jack has the six from getting into the second Zone the first time [Applause] just one minute left Luca is having no luck on that slap though now near the end he really needs to get this right hand underway further over here he's not finding very much over there no I had to rethink it so frustrating you're like incredibly close to it it's so far away right hand through sits on his legs and look he did touch that final hole with two hands that's not gonna be enough from the Dodgers again needs to be stable is the word they use and stable can be debated of course exactly what all that means so Luca doesn't manage to get it done neither does Philip and something that we noticed yesterday with the women is that you need to have a good Boulder round coming into the leader as you leave yourself a lot to do yeah both of these guys well for Philip certainly not getting either of those first two that's gonna have some work later on days though of course is a long way to go there's a little tiny screen on the end of the volume it looks like there might be a little black screen to sort of squat onto yeah to get some downward pressure to push back into the Eco mode [Music] face right against the slab yeah and you actually hit her face on the slab the other day before and banged it on the way down our first time we're going to see adamandra climb he comes out and behind him is yakashiva and although they're not on the same climb right now how many times are these two been in comps together exactly [Applause] it's really good to see I sort of I love the youth coming through but it's nice to see some of the more experience and I don't want to say oh because they're younger than me though disease but uh instead of [Music] the first time in the world see Outdoors the Harvest grade there is in sport climate Yakov launches to the benches excuse me doesn't use the toe [Applause] physicality yeah it's nice to see brush is back as soon as the period doing covered times when it was just the athlete who had to do it and those brushes are beautiful take a look at them if you can there's a competition by a local plug above the gym wherever at because I'm the best and painted the best brush it's got free membership it's really nice really nice yeah and then they're gorgeous rotate it out before we got got to the hole [Music] [Applause] Adam's frame is so different from some climates you know the old approach to not really training your legs and I remember back in the 80s were tiny little skinny legs Adam is he's got some muscle down there yeah [Music] [Applause] have fun and his shoulder to go that's what he used to be when he first appeared [Music] [Applause] changed [Applause] his final move dug in his way through it and a mistakes for jump this time Yakov nuts Troy's been really high on it and we'll sit down we did so that so Ann Adam at the same time tops up well look we talked about two Warriors and left fist bumps from them both of them getting the boulders done that move from Yakov there was so bad that was too Olympic he was just fighting to try and get into a position where he's not stable but sometimes you just have to make something up well we're gonna watch Jacob's final time here so he bumped that right into those big wide pinches had an undercling then stood up high high high and realized almost you could bring that left foot up and then easy like a meerkat popping out of a hole for your computer with Austrian Legend he enjoyed that didn't it this is adamandra good footwork really high on that everyone's been creeping with their fingernails oh what is Adam holding on to here tape I think yeah nothing and then that was the moment that is so good to see Adam is having a good time for this meeting income so Nikola is Nick is Alex and basically shark is back let's look at this third builder yeah and I can't wait to see this because I really don't know how to approach it if I was walking up to this thing I just I could walk away and watch someone else do it it's really complicated attack yeah we just see how instinctive it is and whether it just something works or whether it's just a total fight some magic starts squatting down you can see four lines towards the first hole that's where he has to start and it's really overhanging look at Arch's back is nice to get turned around it's a big fuggy slap out elbow busting compression now the Zone hole is pretty much everything attached to that Giant volume above his head apart from the one right underneath one black bar underneath isn't part of it [Applause] so imagine almost a chimney position that is will count as the Zone then he has to rotate again [Applause] not as complicated as we thought when you miss him all out oh they Wonder to measure the score yeah there he goes jumping up to 55.7 in total for him foreign [Applause] [Music] through [Music] [Applause] so a fairly high scoring round at the moment did you see um starting into undercut it's a little bit easier for him because it's a little bit lower down yeah we had to see yeah we get so high on it the only athlete to top it out coaches enjoy that one coming up to towards the halfway point in this Boulder final equalize got less than a minute [Applause] I think we need more coaches come going on I think it's almost North passion and emotion going on in the pit and on the wall there are things are like very controlled and I don't know like leaping around I don't know how you do it I'd be so nervous I'm just so ah like you better control myself watching Max in the books and final was more stressful than any climbing comeback I've ever done Nikolai uses the toe this time that looks better for them as he goes out to the sloper then adjusts the feet swings over to the right and matches foreign [Music] [Applause] there's a lot of pressure on Nikolai in this round though like he knows it's his specialist discipline and it's not as good on the leaders so he needs to make up some points on this yeah exactly that it's almost it's a lot more mental games going on than a usual kind of Bollywood yeah and how they approach the two zones as well has been interesting because we're seeing some athletes go for attempts but they don't really have enough time they knew they need to get that second scoring point and that's changed things as well Alberto Guinness Lopez he comes to Boulder too so I'm up as we get sat down [Applause] [Music] so remember magically flash this now doesn't use the side pull he goes out to the pinch on the edge of the volume Alberto's towards the final move that doesn't look as good as using that zone hole from Sam there's such a narrow position there's no slight Edge on those holes at all it's all just vertical wall videos squeezing and trying to open up on them that's what we mean by compression don't yeah and how do you train something like that uh a lot of gyms have got like kind of boxes hanging from Worlds around fingerboards or just climbing on this style of problem as well very few Holdings all the complex point the right way anymore [Applause] Sam you style position with a scrunch himself up pushing and pressing his way through and this it looks fairly restful but there's so many muscles working for him right now it's like maybe 40 degrees overhanging so yeah and he's not sitting there having a good time he's attempt to push with his legs the whole time like his hands keeping him on yeah he's looking the right position to get that slope I'm not using the toe from the left as he could do yeah both the French boys match the middle pinch like a tow hooks [Applause] oh Sam it was a blind jump and he went too high on it that's really amazingly to sort of spot that and then make an adjustment in the air in order to see that slot I've got to fingertips keeping him on yeah just not looking in the best position for that slope and easy to see why it's so intensive on the skin there that's like dragging your hand down a bit of sandpipe 120 grit sandpaper you know The Athlete's doing a lot of skin maintenance it was something we saw especially uh at the end of the single events because they came back to back like the athletes just taped up heavily and all fingers yeah warm-ups on the first day people won't even gloves like take to fingertips like anything to conserve that extra little bit [Music] yeah schedules change depending on events but this one was particularly intense for them I mean everyone was in the same boat but I think it's tough Sam with his back against the chimney once more as he comes up 44 seconds this might be his last attempt at this by the time he comes down depending on how far he gets [Music] [Applause] Berto looking like he's getting further away maybe he didn't got it the second time with the jump he'll get the 25 points and Alberto leaves the stage unsuccessful in his Boulder as the time counts down you don't need to go all the way to the end and suppose you do see athletes stopping quite early if they know they haven't got a boulder and they're gonna preserve skin big old scratch on Sam obviously his leg now it's just having a look I think it's an old one so we pause as the volunteers brush the holes down on the map this was Alberto it seemed to go a bit backwards on this yeah it's very easy to power out in a bottle like this like it's squeezing really hard on those pinches and just running out of energy and power of it right so we come down to Lucas Luca Phillips Shank our Phillip is behind at this point he needs to get a top on this last sorry this third Boulder that statue-like position maximum point of order is a hundred scores down on the bottom top 25 second zone six first zone three in every attempt for those is minus zero Pokemon just missing out right there [Music] he does that same one there it's got computer there's a lot of chalk in that hole this is the French version to the top of it it's an undercover it's in the bottom side of it yeah it hasn't really been working as a whole but yeah you're right the more people trying it the more chalk that goes then you start thinking well that's the way [Applause] the Phillips crashes rotates it gets the zone again let's fill it but I mean you could make that work maybe jams the foot maybe that was the intended basically that's what they wanted to use that Footlocker [Music] nearing The Zone remember it's pretty much everything you can see on that black volume [Applause] between the hands [Applause] oh campuses through so easy to enjoy taking his feet off way more than having him on to the right and we knew he had to get that to stay in touch and he adds so it's 33 and look what that's done to his score tonight yeah he was in danger of falling behind if he didn't get that so good work from him yeah sometimes it is easier not to use your feet but sometimes absolutely so Lucas very much using his feet at this point we're about to see him lose it as he jumps swings backwards and yet same with Alberto's like the power out maybe yeah if you just missed the thumb on the left didn't have to squeeze and there's a lot going on if you've got to jump catch it and squeeze all at the same time and pull it into cool swing there's the thing we wanted to mention coordination I'm gonna move like that ease coordination but doing it relatively simple but yeah the movement I suppose is simple compared to some of them when you get tow hooked to the heels and all of them being dynamic proud get behind him he's got 30 seconds on the clock goes again to the Zone one of his last tries at this now gets the tote has he got the stamina though as we near the end of this Boulder missed the good point part of that hole [Applause] for sure as he leaves and Luke and they score and a top score for him got himself set fell from this move a few times I don't speak Slovenia thread up so there they are again I'm loving the fact these two are together it's so good so Jakob is out as is Adam Andra and Jacob Schubert the only person's top holder too so if he can get this it'll be right on top of things both of them as well in that day equally good on the lead walk [Applause] trying to re-figure out this sequence where's he going to go to be looked up to the pinch [Applause] so he falls and presses Adam launches up that's what Yap and Schubert hit it's wide shot that's trying to figure out where he wants to go yeah he should have almost wanted to get in a better position statically and I think we just got to go when you're out in that place it's a bit of a nightmare Boulder in this situation where you're because usually you can sit if you've read the boulder you know what you're under you can sit and visualize it it's almost like you climbed it like 20 times already I mean you've got no idea what to do you're just like oh my god do I go left do I go right do I use this bit all of them when they've sat down on that starting hold and sort of just just had a little moment of like okay here we go yeah it's just so the more we tried to work out the more he was falling off so he's got to commit to a method here now he rotates and turns let's see how much Jacob's trying just to stay on the water yeah so Adam Jacob does work it out and he's going for that foot jam to the heel and the toe pressing into the crack create the butter two volumes matches the Zone hole Adam can't get that move either it's going to move your weight across you have to bend your legs to go low but then when you're in the hole you have to stand up again so really powerful so much force going through your core I'm the leg as well and you vote bicep like everything being tested yeah I've been on this so long it's like a lead roof he's brought the Chuck bag with him so he can choke up Midway [Applause] so he's nearing this quite blind jump his feet quite low as well the yakub struggling at the moment has his Adam he was deep into it but he didn't have the toe up yeah make it very interesting let's talk about that yeah no no little extra screwing in there or anything no screw on and no Edge at all just ROMs upwards into it and the Apple just couldn't find the foot position he needed as you said to get the feet he left his feet so low and just more more moves and then just couldn't move well they're both still going temperatures cooler here in the stadium in the last couple of days cloudy this afternoon which will help yeah sorry just the judges just to hear um's hands there because you're not allowed Blood on the hole so they think it might be bleeding they have to check yeah yesterday they're hosing down the crowd yes we said how's that sound they're boiling up here there's a different conditions so he's jumping coming his toe between and he'll nothing will Gap it takes a lot of weight off of your arms and he's not going to get this done I think his displeasure is clear on that one the aircraft is gonna have to motor he's only got 10 seconds it's not really enough time got the Zone oh and look he's figured it out yeah are both adamant letting us know exactly their feelings that's open the final writer doesn't it he's still he's still frustrated he knew if he could have get that he would have been up at the top of the leaderboard in a really good place but now Sam Avenue is on the top spot so this is what he was holding on to position in the chimney and he needed to get higher which he did he did and this is showing the judge so obviously he's making the case that there's no blood at all what are you talking about he's a big handful of chalking though I think as well yes so now I'm not bleeding yeah nothing but honest your honor it is a safety concern and it's right and we don't want people bleeding all over the wall so and you see sometimes the athletes having to tape up and Molly was telling me that she practices uh speed taping typing brilliant I've never heard anyone tell me that my whole discipline in itself yeah it should be it's like a pit stop at moving on you know right so we get to see Boulder number four for the first time which is potentially the hardest one of the whole set I wouldn't be able to move no I try not to let's see if magic you can prove them wrong shall we so he's going to go for a big jump across the slab I think medie will probably like this a lot oh nearly went higher in his head then Nikolai is underneath same position as Jakob was look at that kneadable Sam obviously 55.7 meant she shot from 5.7 as well so the top three just separated close at the top easiest way almost neck and neck like this it will fall and come down see who climbs highest on that lead we're quite happy with that if it stays as it is added to the boulder at the end magic is into the first Zone and the second Zone it's a long way I need to jump into a palm and stick your hand oh and he does look at that he's put on that is pure new school strength for meds to shout awesome to see from him yeah I mean it's it's it's a move that you will not see very often a local wall something like that is very specific to this style of copper climbing and this style of setting look at that I mean what do you even call that Dynamic coordination mantle I think I love it is there any way to describe it isn't it yeah exactly backwards Palm press I don't know I feel like a lot of my job is just making up climbing terms here yeah I think you'd see that move on a slab and done more statically but not on a overhanging wall tonight it's Nikolai working and he's still climbing yes look at that face fight going on there trying to find that point to move on couldn't do it though [Music] [Applause] so he's gonna Jam the foot in as well on the set comes oh he hasn't changed it slide here bicycle around the car will you worked his way up and he has got time but we watch Jacob run out of time foreign [Music] yet [Applause] do now with that movement yeah there it goes on the scoreboards and now as long as he can oh he's Twisted so awkward he ran towards the audience [Applause] and he's gone so he's got 20 seconds left but it's not enough time and he got the second Zone by that point no point wasting skin and energy this was the final turn he just got himself in the wrong place and that spin ing him off the wall he's got quite a lot of strapping on that right arm which is the one that's bothering him a lot in the boulder finals so only that's still bothering him a little bit although it's just difficult I think hey Nikolai if you watch back to that competition he seemed genuinely surprised to top out the slab when he won and uh I think he's just enjoying being here it's you know being in the top eight on the combined final yeah this big it sets you up so well for next year for the qualifying events absolutely that's all learning isn't it wait I think it's totally different to a normal World Cup [Music] [Applause] right so Sam Avenue has a chance to go up to the top of the leaderboard here if you can get this done how much of this can they plan in their heads that foot movement it's something I really struggle with when you look at a bowl like this is where do you place your feet um again when you do a lot of them have an instinct for where you need to be the initial position they're generating out looks really weird like really off balance and it's like it's almost like a strength element to it where yeah easily didn't you yeah now this is the move we haven't worked out what to call it yet okay oh look at that pressing up underneath they really are I mean making a play for this and Alberto tops out at the same time and this is setting us up for an amazing lead fight it really is so interesting Alberta with those Olympic rings these Spain's youngest gold medalist gold medals ever up to the top turns back job done from him good the rotation he was going up as he was holding the swing 2.6 at the top so Philip Shank managed to keep himself in contention after a slower start from him Luca pottiger turns and has able to get this complicated Boulder for three foreign growing all afternoon there's more and more coming to the stadium and there's a huge amount of people now watching yeah the card numbers have been amazing here like midweek and everyone's still come out and yeah it's really awesome thank you to everyone here in music for putting on such a good show so not quite as Rowdy as yesterday we haven't had a mule local German in the finals but that's to be expected yeah we just we needed a German in here but I think they've kind of adopted uh Nikola who's Nick and um Yak of Sheba so Luca Potter Joe is having a long look at the start of this bowl this was his initial press obviously mostly a lead specialist but we'll do a fair amount of all the training as well so yeah and the disciplines are starting to merge they're starting to see Boulders get a little bit longer and Lead walls get more complex yeah [Applause] back and forth he goes spring is out to the right can't make that move work [Applause] almost jamming [Applause] and that would feel good it's a nice feeling when it slips in like that [Applause] yeah almost everything's taking a Chuck bag up there [Music] shank is missing that left hand at the moment [Applause] Luca pressing hasn't brought the left but now does and he'll be able to sit here and breathe for a moment so try and figure out which way up he is which way he's facing but where the next hole is so easy to get lost on things like this hasn't got the second Zone [Applause] a Little Closer trying to hold the sloper underneath but it's more of a blocker than a hole Yeah pressing up and now he'll get the zone and looks in a better position than Nikolai did [Applause] she's got a Twist even more ah that strength to hold that incredible the wrong way as well and he's choking up one hand it's just a flex and he's taking his time he's got the time he needs to make sure of this it would have taken a lot out of him had to engage a different gear to make that work and he does top out for he had to dig really down you had the nerves I feel it not sure what that was blood out of the blood a lot of positioning [Music] so he winds up there couldn't get the front leg in first so frustration from Philip shank he has a lot more work to do come the lead where he'll go now and rest before that starts and the lead will kick off around about 5 pm here at Munich time about half an hour break between the boulder ending and the lead beginning this is this move I mean look he made it look as hard as it was yeah the hold is facing it's like well look at that I left them right wait I'm lost which hand is it the right hand left hand yeah left hand spun around a head Jam in there oh that forehead getting involved and then look at the hands he's matching his own fingers oh every the more I see of this the more disgustingly strong that move was in your own hands oh declining that is not Usual by the way that's not something you'll see often don't don't try this at home no please don't out to the right and that face said it all I mean he used his forehead he crypto's own fingers he deserved it frankly do you want to listen in trying hard that was it here we go the two legends was so disappointed not to figure out Boulder number three and one of it revenge on number four yeah I think he thought he'd pick it up for you as well I'm definitely out of time So Adam turns I can't wait to see Adam on this because he's not really gonna fit into that chimney very well with the uh the left leg bringing back but you might be able to reach through a few of the moves and be less Dynamic so maybe different sections will suit him yeah I mean he'll be able to leave his feet a little bit lower like Jacob did and then got stuck but I might be able to reach out of it foreign [Applause] [Music] [Applause] maximum score for him what was the problem he turns and he'll be sent out the other way and Jacob and Heel To His Hand still needs a match though and there's a lot of work to do and he does pop down wants a brush again the head shake hard to get your hand out of the way enough [Music] he's got a thumb on the screw but oh he knows that could have been important he's got plenty of time though it's only his first attempt which is really impressive to get that hike I wonder how much psychologically watching well he knew Adam flashed that Boulder it's right in his peripherals he can hear it he knew he was frustrated it might be starting to play mind games for him so easy yeah I thought it was a hard Builder there but they changed it yeah yeah that's what I'll move absolutely dialed me yeah he's got it down this is where he's struggling to make an adjustment and that was good he's still trying to heal slit gets it in this time oh he's got his toe on now he does get it done yeah will enjoy that moment as the crowd go crazy in here now it is everyone's getting into this but you are at home as well you're coming to the end of the Bolder part of this Boulder and Lead competition getting horizontal and this is pretty much certainly for the top three neck and neck coming into the lead round yeah super fascinating around like all doing kind of different things like different rates it's funny how it changes for a viewer because for me tight is usually we'd be saying maybe there's not enough separation yeah but it's really enjoyable that they're at this level I think because they are falling off different Boulders that makes it interesting yeah you're right and it's just gonna all to play for on that lead wall I mean there's decibel points separating these guys all right Nicholas Nick's out and we will slow things down a bit only one athlete at a time now as we come to the final climb so we get to watch the last four in detail has a long look is trying to remind himself of this Boulder it's been a little while since observation so the ones who need the top here setting down in sixth place [Applause] you almost try to move away from it before it was really on it's almost like he thought it took it and then yeah [Applause] [Music] [Applause] foreign [Applause] [Music] right it's terrible I mean it's it's big but it's it's like really sloppy and Dave how come if they're covering their hands in short why aren't they putting loads of chalk on their feet if it's the same principle um let's describe this I guess it would be a bit like climbing roller skates I could have this little layer of chalk between the rubbers sticky so if you put a load of chalk on there as well then it's just going to get stuffy inside around well the joke's there to absorb that moisture apartment so hands not feeding oh look at this he was so voting that having fun why not giving the photographer suddenly take a picture of who's Dick spins in the air and gives a cheeky look to the audience for now yeah so just 20 points behind [Applause] the top three and 20 points well we'll explain how the lead system works later on but 20 points is not a lot as long as you get high let's see this slopy hold so he's got the fingers in as well they need to change it into a palm and then look at this move like midair is having to change it into his into a palm yeah so jumping and twisted and that great little look to the audience I really enjoyed that that's cool to see so that helped his score he did what he needed keep within distance Alberto's out go back to this coordination move yeah he tends to be pretty good at them trained a lot with Adam under it as Alberto for a long time people were saying that he was someone to watch I think I spent quite a lot of time as well yeah in that Olympic year he did every competition you could possibly do on the circuit crazy I thought he was completely wrong I thought he was bonkers it's almost like he had to train before the start of the season and just got better and better and better spoke to him about it and he just said look I just I felt like I needed to climb my way into it so competition just became second nature spawn with the right foot I'm not using the catch underneath and now he does and now he needs to flick up change it he wasn't that high on it and this is really physical now it's just slightly overhanging Wallace so you're falling out so I don't think you can monitor this out statically 10 years I'm gonna try a different way too big a jump try two different things so I guess that's the method that the root sets were worried about where you could rock out that way with your foot still on the on the Zone hole and just press upwards so yeah and it's a good point about the wall being overhanging because it was more vertical or even to slabby it then you could you could press down and get balanced on one hand but it's too tricky to do that on a wall that shape I like those sunglasses so Alberta again likely to have got this move down and he has [Applause] yeah it looks so easy when they do it so hard when they don't yeah it's just learning the movement goes the same way again but a bit more dynamically tiny bit gassed out you'll have to rest it seems to be pushing himself out from the wall a bit too much Alberto is resting now yes I think see if he does anything different this time yes he's had a long time to think about this I hope he goes easy now it's all about this move presses and goes and misses all the other guys were facing to the right and he's trying to place to the left but so whenever it only works one way yeah it's a good point it might do and sometimes that's all it takes a little tiny angle change and something becomes impossible [Applause] seven it's not the worst place to be [Applause] a few movies but if you can get this I mean oh it goes statically again surely not no not quite he's got time for another go we'll never realized that if he goes that way and goes Dynamic then unlocks it when you sit down after a cop with the athletes do they just kick themselves sometimes they don't see a move or is there always a process they went through to get there initially there's a bit of kicking it's like oh if I just don't base and it's like and then when they kind of calm down and get some light you can go into kind of okay why didn't you do that oh why did you miss this footholder yeah but it's hard isn't it because the boulders are different every single time so it's not like you can take an identical learning situation so I guess that's the key reason is who can adapt to okay it's a bit like this move that I did two months ago at whatever came and yeah yeah because even 100 meters you mess up the start it's the same hundred meters the next time you do it with this it's so different Alberto can't work it out but 60. similar to tennis like the ball's always doing something different and I've got to adapt to what's in front of you yeah very true souvenir it's Lucas Luca put the jet comes out onto the stage let's see you can figure this out we've only got two athletes left so Luca and then Adam out on this before we pause and Luca again needs this started slow compared to the rest yeah a great start I mean he is new school for this move oh matches then goes [Applause] He seems to be having around for ages looking but he's still so young yeah the great comp last year in his home country and he was got the silver oh look everything popping off it and that's what we mean by bad hold there's no positive Edge to hold on to a bit of friction and you jumping through the air whilst you're trying to hold on really good enough I'm not just coming out from the wall a little bit but not only is he having to hold the swing side with his handheld swing out as well so needs to change things a little bit we'll just hold on though but just hold on tired don't let go it's it's the climbing is one of those Sports you watch it on TV and it's you just think just hold on like what are you doing that holds massive what are you doing yeah but it's so much harder than it looks and I was up there on the stage having a look at these holes and you just the size of it as well the scale it's a big move and everything is far apart complicated this is the world's best and people talk about grades all the time how do you grade something like this especially with Boulder it's difficult to do because how do you grade A coordination jump you know yeah it's uh yeah so what grade is the new cluster volumes are going to do right if I put P2 on it you'll complain yeah I'm an example the reset as we're trying this move with trainers on and making it work yeah because once you know the Angles and how how the Hat goes together with these these black volumes so what we're seeing on the camera now like circus area is on a shoe is actually it trailers is actually bigger than a climbing chair it's just a little bit isn't quite sticky [Applause] the Luca is trying to find something here he's got coming up to the minute Mark left he knows despite our strong Elite climber is if he doesn't get this he's got a mountain to play so stable in that position you feel like it's not close yet it's not like he's about to unlock it let's see how far away from New Orleans so pressure now 30 seconds to go better but look at the time little things that can affect that move like the angle of either the feet can change that move completely turn your arm for like three degrees and you do the move it's like so it's great watching the the quality of the slow motion we have because you can see all of these little details for the backup as well crimped his fingers up as close as you get guys never never show up a bit of passion so our final climber for the boulder round adamandra walks onto the stage he is up there if he manages to get this if you're trying to do a bit quick mess in the head then use your fingers I'm shooting socks are off so what could Adam do he flashed the last Boulder brilliantly it's got to be said but this is two new school for Adam Andre he doesn't love his cars He distracted quite a lot of this style so [Music] their comps are important to him either as much as he loves outdoor climbing he wants to win these things first so matches this is classic Adam now you won't see that from many other people as he rocks high up on the foot and another Flash from under that set into the top of the leaderboard 80.7 so now we've got four climbers in the 80s which means all of them it's just a case of who climbs higher on the lead with yeah I mean that's I hope that the leader expects them up [Music]

Channel: Bouldering TV

Views: 505,024

Keywords: climbing, bouldering, boulder, competition, boulderingTV, hightlights, replay, recap, final, finals, rock, sport, climb, battl, 抱石, 攀登, クライミング, ボルダリング, escalade, क्लाइम्बिंग, Cup, comp, Olympic, games, live, stream, livestream, asian, скалолазание, боулдеринг, masters, broadcast, खेल, スポーツ, 運動, 岩石, boulderfest, ifsc, 2022, Munich, European Championships, German, sport climbing, rock climbing, international federation of sport climbing, UZNIK NICOLAI, GARNBRET JANJA, janja, ONDRA ADAM, ondra, GINÉS LÓPEZ ALBERTO

Id: gjAp0S2Mqno

Length: 167min 37sec (10057 seconds)

Published: Mon Sep 12 2022