[John] I typically never do commissions for
my friends because none of them like paying for it. But when my buddy Justin asked for
a shuffleboard, I couldn’t resist whooping his ass on it after I built it. So we did
this. The first thing we gotta do is mill down some of these 14 ft long, eight-quarter,
soft maple boards. These, I think, are the biggest boards I’ve ever milled in this
shop. So let’s get squirrely. Hah! ¼ inch under. Alright, my children,
so we cut all these boards and then turned them on their side you probably noticed. That
means the grain is running this way. So when this thing expands and contracts, most of
the expansion will be vertically. This is what you would call a butcher block glue up.
It’s a try to eliminate expansion and contraction this way. So what we’re going to do now
is mark our layout, make sure we like where all the boards are. Their pretty clean, so
probably not going to switch any of those. But then we are going to add Dominos for alignment
on the top. That way, when we get this thing into flattening, we’re not killing ourselves
taking off high spots and low spots. You don’t need to do that part. I typically wouldn’t
do that part. But because this thing is 14 ft long, that part is something we don’t
feel like doing down there. [Sam] The red oak is now thicknessed, and
here’s a little tip for you guys on a way to be more efficient with your material. So
we need to make some 5-inch wide by 27 was the final length for the legs of this thing.
So we’re going to rough cut them down to about 28 and then go over to the jointer and
joint them. Some of these boards are just absolutely a circle. They just have a ridiculous
curve into them, so we would lose a ton of material and it would take a ton of time to
get a nice straight edge on all that. And we don’t really need to worry about all
that. If you cut it down to the smaller piece, it’s way easier to joint and it will take
off way less material. Now that the pieces have been rough cut and
S3 lumber at this point, meaning their square on the two big side and one short side, next
we need to make a miter joint. So we’re not going to do a solid leg for these. We’re
going to do a boxed miter, which isn’t inherently a super-strong structure. It ends up being
end-grain to end-grain, sort of. So to fix that we’re going to do what’s called a
spline joint in the miter. So that little gap right there in the miter will end up with—I
think I’ll, probably, use maple. We’ll put a little piece in there so when we glue
it together, not only does it help with the alignment, but it will also increase the surface
area making face-to-face glue contact, which is extremely strong. So that’s the plan.
I’m going to start by taking all of these boards, ripping them down to the width that
we want them to be. And then we’ll come back and we’ll add the miter to both sides.
And then we’ll add the little spline joint, and I’ll show you how to do that when we
get there. Cue up the music. Cue up the awesome slow-mo; sawdust, amazingness. So I took my piece that we did the test cut
on and I ripped it so that it’s the exact same width as— [John] What are you kids doing? [Sam] We’re making your thing. [John] That’s Sam’s eye. That’s Jordan.
Is it going good? [Sam] Yes. Alright. We were rudely interrupted.
He just comes down here, shoves his phone in my face, and then leaves. Doesn’t even
help with his own YouTube channel. Unbelievable. Alright, you ready for this? We have two miters.
Now we have to make this part. I don’t think in the history of this channel we’ve ever
done this. We’re on the other side. [Jordan] You can do that? [Sam] Yeah. [Jordan] Yeah, I’m done. [Sam] It feels super. I don’t like it. We
lowered the blade to set it to that height. I fine with what that was there, it doesn’t
really matter, about halfway through the thickness of your material. Now I’m going to lock
this thing back on to the thing. Slide this guy over. See how that fits? And just like
that that, wham, you have a little cut perpendicular to your miter. We can put a piece of wood
in. Now I’ve got to make forty-eight, 3 ft long cuts. [Jordan] So, we cut the slot for the splines,
and off camera we made splines out of maple. Kyle is here helping us. We went through and
did a dry fit. We also tried to grain match as best as we could, that way it looks like
it’s all one solid piece. Yeah, we’re going to glue these up. It’s going to suck,
and John is still upstairs. [Sam] Well, we have Kyle, so. [Jordan] This thing belongs in an art museum. [Sam] We learned a couple of things on the
first two, like, don’t do more than one at once. Have clamps ready. Lots of things. [Jordan] I just want to use less clamps. I
think we’re down to eight instead of twelve. But now, all we got left are the big boys. [Sam] Jordan, why did you build something
with so many legs? [Jordan] We designed it here. [Sam] You guys like to see us struggle. Please
subscribe. Legs are now out of glue up. I’m going to give them a light sand, just to get
some squeeze-out glue off of them. Jordan’s over there getting the squeeze-out off the
planning surface, then we’ll have some more lumber to mill. And, hopefully, John comes
down because Jordan and I have absolutely no idea how to build this. [Jordan] What are we building? [Sam] I’m not really even sure anymore. [John] Hi guys, it’s me, John, the one you
normally see in front of the camera. I am back assisting these two minions with this
shuffleboard. So they did a great job at getting these mitered feet glued up. If you want to,
you could build these out of just thick chunks of material. We didn’t have that opportunity,
so we went with these boxes. Now, we’re going to cut these down to length and then
what we’re gonna do is assemble what’s going to be our three legs. The one unique
thing about this table is that we have to make this completely knock down. So this top
has to be a separate piece and so do these bottoms, this stretcher here. Because of the
way we need to get it into the house. Let’s get to choppin’. Hey, real quick, if you
want to build awesome stuff like this shuffleboard, take the time and check out Woodcraft. Woodcraft,
bar none, best wood working store on the planet. They’ve got a killer online store, and they
also have physical locations all over the United States. So check them out. I appreciate
their support of our channel. Sam and I absolutely love it. And our personal store, here in Pittsburg,
has popcorn when it’s not a pandemic. So your store’s probably just as awesome, or
better. I highly advise checking it out. Now, excuse me real quick, because I’ve got awesomeness
to do with the shuffleboard. So I’m going to crosscut these on the table
saw because it’s more accurate than the miter saw. Here’s a tip for you guys. In
order to keep things as square as you can, just make sure your keeping the same part
of whatever board your cutting against the fence. So I’ll cut this side square over
here. And instead of flipping it this way, I’ll flip it this way. I drop down, butt
up against it, boom, cut it square. Alright good people, for the joinery on the leg assembly,
or the base assembly parts and all of this thingamajig, we’re using Dominos. The XL
and the regular. If you don’t have one, you can cut your joinery by whatever method
you see fit. We want to use some sort of integral tenon. The Domino’s the fastest, and we
make our money getting shit done. Let’s cut some holes. So to make mock-up easier, one thing we like
to do with our Domino joinery is, anytime I have a tight tenon, there’s two settings
on Domino if you don’t have one, you can make a tight or a loose hole. When I have
a tight hole, we like to put our Domino in and then it’s stuck in one side for mock-up.
So we’ll do this and, then, I’ll cut the rest of the joints in the leg. Chunky. [Sam] Of course the last glue-up cracked as
I put this clamp on like this. I’m working some glue into it now so I can then move my
clamp over to the end. Never easy, Jordan. [John] Mocking this up, a.k.a. mock jams,
in order to mark all of our layout points, where we want all of our integral parts to
go, so we can cut the joinery once and then assemble. We’re going with Dominos once
again. Shit’s going to fall out. You’re going to have an aneurysm. Are you ready? [Jordan] What? [Sam] Don’t pick it up by the clamp. [John] Yup. Exactly what I thought was going
to happen. [Sam] Put it in reverse, Terry. [John] I need to get him a stepladder so he
can mark on this thing. Be an athlete. Hey, Macarena! Where’s the last one of these?
Sorry, couldn’t see it. [Sam] Well, use your eyes. [John] Gyrations. Your arms caught. [Sam] Going down. [John] Oops, you can’t—I think I’m sitting
on the f-ing bench. Nope, we’re good. [Sam] The thing’s so long. Who built this
damn thing? [John] This is kind of what I was looking
for. I just want to see it. [Sam] You just wanted to feel it? Taste it?
Oh, my god. [Jordan] Oh, what is that? [Sam] A piece of wood off the floor. [John] What do you think? [Sam] I’m just stuck. [Jordan] Go under, you dumbass. Why would
you go that way? It’s even worse. [John] We need a bigger shop. It looks good. [Sam] See you guys tomorrow? [John] Yes. [Jordan] And then it will be sweet. [John] All right, kids, so we are out of clamps.
We’re going to build the stretcher system for the base. Make sure everything is square,
the big ass square, and then what we’re going to do is use knock-down joinery to fasten
the legs into what we’re going to call the box. We can’t get this in the house unless
we do this. We’re then going to run a stretcher across here. We’ll mortise it in, or whatever.
Put it into here and then it’ll land on this side with Domino’s quick connect fasteners.
That should tie this whole base together, and it should be nice and stable. Should be
no racking. The thing probably weighs, you know, 300 lbs already. That will help from
anything, kind of, shaking and moving. So through some brilliant ingenuity, Festool
has developed what they call their Connect System. You have this part here that will
go into our face here, and it will sit there. This bolt tightens in there, and it spreads
this apart. On the other side, you have a mortised hole in your piece. It will come
into here now, connect, and then you cut another hole where this piece sits. The bolt comes
into that piece, and it’s pinned right here. So then we can use an Allen key to disconnect
this entire side. This whole part stays in here, and we have a nice easy, well, what’s
called knock-down joinery. We don’t have to do anything crazy because we can just use
all Dominos. I invested in this, probably, about five years ago. And we find that, when
we need to do knock-down stuff, it is worth its weight in gold. Thank you, Festool. So it is time for us to create what is going
to be the fastening system to—for the box to the base. I’m going to recess—this
is a hex head. It’s a 2 ½-inch bolt through our base. I’ve got ‘em marked out. Gotta
do the recess first. Come back. Trusty old vertical drilling jig. Did I get ‘er? [Sam] Tom would like it. [Jordan] So this is my bit about bits. As
you can see, this looks like it was sanded, and it was not. I just but a fresh, new surfacing
bit in. I got it from Bits & Bits. It’s the Whiteside 6220, 2-inch surfacing bit.
As your bits get older, you start getting burn marks like this and it feels a little
rough. Your bit’s probably dull. And we abuse the heck out of these bits. Pretty hard
on them, but they last a really long time. And, then, whenever you need a new one, you
just order from Bits & Bits. And if you actually request them to send you a joke, they will.
And they’re super-fast, super-reliable, and we actually have a code for you to save
some money. Check ‘em out. Bits & Bits, thank you for supporting the channel. And
I gotta continue to flatten this thing and get it perfect. [John] Are you ready? Good, because this thing
weighs a ton. Gotta rip ’er down to size. Because of the size of this mother-sucker
jones, we have to cut 13/16ths off of each side. Yeah. And then we’ll have pretty even
boards here. So, next thing we need to do is put some refence
lines into our board here. Now you could do this by hand if you wanted to. We’ve got
the CNC so we’re going to go with that. Essentially, all we’re looking to do is
create some lines here, and these are 6 inches apart. We’ll put a line in the center, and
then we’re going to put an ‘M’ because the individual purchasing this, his last name
begins with an ‘M’. He’s actually one of my oldest friends. His locker was next
to mine as a youth. Our fathers were custodians together. We played football together for
years. Then he went to West Virginia, and now I hate his guts. But— [Sam] Don’t lie. [John] —the ‘M’ is for Malecki, because
when it shows up and he says one negative thing about it, I’m taking it home. Let’s
go. [Jordan] Give ‘em the north style. [John] Why, uh— [Jordan] Ooh, what? [Sam] I don’t think the top’s big enough. [John] I agree. We should get a new one. And
for my next trick, we fill the letters. We’re using epoxy because we use tons of epoxy.
If we were doing, like say, a walnut base, we’d probably do walnut inlays in here.
We know some guys do brass rods, but this is kind of our style. [Sam] Hey, John’s back. [Jordan] 5 minutes a day. [John] You guys got jokes, huh? We’re going
to TableTop epoxy the playing surface here. And before we do so, I’m going to wipe off
any dust that was left behind by Jordan because we know he’s the dustiest one around here.
We’ll mix up some resin, dump ’er on there, watch it drip on the floor, get super sad,
and then go home and hope it cures overnight. [Sam] Oh, sick. [Jordan] For today we’re going to want tiptop
epoxy, two-part, one-to-one ratio. We’ve got some fresh squeegees here for you. [Sam] Did you spell it tiptop epoxy? [Jordan] TableTop. Tiptop. One-to-one. [John] Sam and I did this once without eye
protection and I was, literally, like, “I won’t need it.” Splattered right in my
eye immediately. I’m not a huge fan of TableTop epoxy, but from my experience, you literally
just kind of want to get it on the surface as best you can. It’s self-leveling and
we have our table completely level. I touch. Sam goes and Sam ruins it. [Sam] What? [John] You un-level things. It’s what you
do. And then you just want to kind of spread it around. It’s thick and thin if that makes
sense. [Sam] Nope. [John] So it’s thin enough to spread, but
it’s thick enough that it’s not going to just pour off the table like water. We
love them. [Sam] In the name of all that is squirrely,
let us spray. [John] Alright, so the TableTop epoxy is dry.
I’m going to hit it with a scuff coat, just to try to even out a couple little bumps and
imperfections that just tend to happen with this kind of stuff. And then we’ll wax this
thing, and we should be able to get installed here pretty soon. So, excuse me. Let’s get
working. Now that it’s sanded, I went the whole way up to 320 grit, what we’re going
to do next is wax it. I just have some paste wax here, and I’m just going to rub the
paste was on by hand. After I get about a foot to 18-inches, I’ll wipe that off, and
I’ll just keep working my way back up the board. And this is a good way to, if you’re
finishing any epoxy, Sam and I have had success with this in the past. It’s not the greatest
for clear, crystal clear, epoxy. We like to use some of the automotive compounds on crystal
clear epoxy. But it works great on colored epoxy as well. So sand up to 320. Blacked
buff; nice sheen. Besides sheen, this is almost more important that we have a an insanely
slick surface. Rub ‘er in. I am creating holes for levelers. We’re
going to put some threaded inserts and some nuts in here to help keep this thing level
just in case the floor in the home it’s going in isn’t perfect. Don’t know if
this is necessary, but I’ve seen it on other plans. And speaking of, we’ve got enough
people requesting it, we’re going to do a plan on this one. So that’s down in the
description if you guys want to build one of these for yourself. So I have all the locations for tensioner
rod, which are these things. One side is threaded for wood, and the other side is threaded for
a bolt. So you can see kind of how it works, and therefore you can create tension. You
want the tabletop to be slightly concave that way your puck stays on the table, so we’re
going to screw these in and hope this works. This is a special driver that you need for
these. Some of them can drive them through from the top. I have all our hole depths,
should be the same, so should be able to just bury these and it should work. I sure am glad
I bought that, huh? The last thing we need to do is put some carpet down in this. So
we have to cut this in half and then cut straight lines. [Jordan] I gotta go get two pucks. [John] It looks like we knew what we were
doing. So we are at my buddy Justin’s house, the new owner of our shuffleboard. We’ve
been friends since I was a child. And now I’m going to take his window out of his
basement so we can get this in here. Sorry, bud. Not sorry. [Sam] It's an open-concept basement. [John] More like outdoor living. [Sam] It didn’t move, which is always a
plus. [John] Daddy’s here. [Sam] How you want it? [John] Turn it so the metal’s up. These
guys are doing great. There she is. Give ‘er a looksee. [Justin] Wow. Sick. It looks awesome. [John] But we have to put the beads up yet. [Justin] It looks good, huh? Thanks guys.
Yeah. [Jordan] Thank you. [Justin] I appreciate it. [John] I can’t wait to take all of your
money playing it. [Justin] I was going to say, should we go
double or nothing right now, or what? [John] So that’s going to be a wrap on this
one. This thing turned out sick. I think it may be my favorite woodworking project to
date. We had a ton of fun building this. If you want us to build more degenerate gambling
and underground casino type projects, leave a comment down below and tell us what you
want to see. And if not, check out this video because it’s ridiculous.
