Ender 3: Voron Afterburner Upgrade

hello the internet and welcome to my almost clean workbench what you have here in the middle is my once upon a time this was an ender 3 it's my 3d printer which i have somewhat modified but not all of my upgrades were that successful if you can see back there my cable management is an absolute atrocity and if we take a look at this thing where's my hothead part cooling is generally for the weak and completely overrated as is a proper hot end cooling fan this thing i somewhat hazardly mounted to this pancake stepper supposed to cool my hot end it obviously does not and i can't print above like 220 degrees or else this will just straight up jam due to heat creep so this thing needs some upgrades and in this video i'm going to show you the first upgrade i'm going to replace this hotend assembly with a war on afterburner i have already prepared a few parts and ordered all the necessary components but first a small note on printing abs on this thing you're gonna want your hotend mount to keep up with your hotend's temperature if you set your thing to let's say 250 degrees printing some nylons or something and the thing starts turning into a puddle that's no good so at least your hotend you're gonna want to print from abs or any other heat resistant material for printing abs on a machine like this your original hot end is just not gonna cut it it's ptfe lined in there which makes for some really nasty smells above somewhere around 240 degrees which you're not gonna wanna breed breathe in if i'm not mistaken those are neurotoxins and will severely harm you so this thing toss it you're not gonna need it i've printed on this printer for a good while with a e3d v6 light a genuine one um but that thing's also ptfe lined and can't really handle the temperatures you're gonna need for printing abs so instead i went out and bought a dragon hotend which can handle all those temperatures but there's hundreds of full metal hotends out there that you could choose from as well now this printer once upon a time was the og ender 3 with all of its atrocious quality control fatal flaws in its design and over all weaknesses the original ender 3 was essentially if you wanted a printer to print it was total garbage for example this print surface has holes in it everywhere and those are just from printing pla this thing starts disintegrating after some time but this has this still has uses if you want to print your abs parts one thing i can recommend you is to make something called abs juice which is if i'm not mistaken 500 milliliters of acetone and 50 milligrams of abs if that's wrong i'm gonna put some text on the screen right now you mix that up wait about six seven hours for the abs to fully dissolve and then you can slather that on your build surface wait for it to dry and your abs prints are gonna stick to it i've never had any problems with build adhesion using this technique you're not relying on your build plate surface for bad adhesion you're relying on the abs juice you could practically speaking if you've got abs juice you could print on any surface as long as the abs juice sticks to it so i printed all of these parts right on here you can even see the remains remainder of i think it's this one i printed last the shape here and it worked really well for me 110 on the bed 150 on the hot end and it's all good now we are going to take a look at actually building your afterburner first step for installing it on a stock ender 3 is that you're gonna need adapter parts i'll put a link to the thingiverse page where i borrowed this thing in the description below so you can upgrade your printer too this is just an adapter part that fits onto your ender 3 carriage on this side and that has all the right mounting holes for the new hot end you're also going to want to start off by installing these heat set inserts which just fit on the tip of your soldering iron and then you could press them in there there's enough tutorials on how to do that out there i'm not gonna go into detail the next step is to disassemble the printer's hot end that is on there currently and a little tip if you ever have difficulties working on your hot end just take the entire carriage of the thing and work on it like on your workbench like i am doing here or wherever you conduct your printer maintenance so the next step is gonna be this lesson disassembling this piece of junk and fitting the components into here so right here i have my mosquito hot end which is quite a nice hot end it's a pretty obvious ripoff of the slice engineering mosquito but well i've checked my budget and even this thing was stretching it so i kind of feel bad for not giving money to the inventors of this really nice idea here of separating the heat block from the heatsink with these stainless steel tubes but there's no way i could have afforded their full price mosquito hotend so i'm not gonna feel too bad about using this thing later on this is the adapter plate that's going to mount to the carriage carrier and the print core is going to these two bolts are gonna fit into these two holes just gonna make a nice and convenient way of swapping hot ends and the nice thing about being able to swap hot ends quickly is if you've accumulated a collection of v6 clones over the years like i have you can just put a different size nozzle into each of those hotends and [Music] save yourself the hassle of constantly screwing and screwing around with those nozzles and tightening the heat breaks and heat tightening and burning your fingers it's a really annoying part of 3d printing and by just literally swapping the entire hotend out with another one that has a different sized nozzle you can save yourself that trouble quite easily now when you are at this step it is important to properly adjust the distance between these two gears you can loosen this screw and slide the motor up and down in here in order to do that they should mesh but not rub against each other each other next thing's gonna be this fan in order for this fan to fit into the hotend assembly the shroud needs to be removed all around the fan are these little clips and if you push in on these i like to use a screwdriver you can just unclip the parts and easily take off this shroud we are not going to need it because this fan is going to be installed in this new war on shroud thing here man this thing looks nice it's it's it's such a good looking hot end and i never thought i'd say the things good looking at hot end in the same sentence i mean wow the warren people are i mean man they are good at 3d printer design now this cooling fan shroud is supposed to be installed using a filament hinge which is you put this thing in here and then push the fit this piece of filament through for this to swivel and then you can melt these ends of the filament to prevent the piece from slipping out for installing this piece i'm going to use a trick then that i saw in a video by martine bishop which is a german channel he's doing a warren build right now quite interesting in my opinion i'm gonna put a link to his videos down below and this trick is to use a lighter to heat up one of the ends of the filament and to then push a slide elephant's foot into it and if i pull on this thing now theoretically yes it worked it can't come out anymore and now just do the same thing on the other side next there's a fan missing i'm gonna need to get one of those hey look it's the original creality one and this fan the cable can easily be routed through this convenient cable channel down here and it exits out the side really nice oh man i love the smell of melting abs and just like that i've got lung cancer easy peasy yeah i can install all of these mounting screws now which is gonna involve quite a few m3 by 16 screws and some m3x6 and i think also a m3 by 10 but i'm gonna have to check hell yeah it's actually nearing completion i'm now gonna need to install this whole front assembly onto the extruder assembly which seems simple enough kaboom a war and afterburner for the ender 3 let's install it do some test prints and evaluate its performance kaboom and there we are the upgrade was a huge success i this is the second time i'm filming the conclusion of the video since the first time around i left this thing printing and the fan the is this just the cooling fan was too loud and it ruined the audio and my audio quality isn't that good anyways and i didn't want to ruin it further by having noise so just imagine it printing or i cut in some video of it printing here but i'm very pleased with the results as you can see here on this test cube except for some ringing which is due to this heavy bed and my rather aggressive acceleration values but extrusion wise i can't see anything wrong with this thing and in case that's not enough here's a banshee print it in petg i see no obvious issues with this thing except for again some ringing well i guess that's it for this video i'm having some problems with this el cheapo and to be honest quite flimsy pancake stepper motor getting extremely hot to a point where when i put a thermocouple on it it reads like 70 to 80 degrees with a terrible thermal contact that those glass bead things have so i think the stepper motor is overheating overheating pretty badly that's all i wanted to talk about in this video some really neat hotend swapping i can do with this thing now for example a v6 light with a 0.2 millimeter another just easy swaps from now on and if this video hits three likes i'm gonna make another one you

Channel: Kyberwerk

Views: 22,707

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Id: 9Go5AZ5gMQQ

Length: 19min 48sec (1188 seconds)

Published: Sun Oct 24 2021