EASY GARAGE STAIRS HANDRAIL DIY: How to Build and Install Handrail to CODE!

what's happening friends it's hunter thanks for checking in on the video again today brian and i just got done with the house for dr horton and we have one thing left to finish and it is a garage rail for the stairs coming in from the garage into the house if you have three or more stairs most likely there needs to be a rail on one side for it to meet code so for this house we just have one easy wood rail wood balusters that we need to install here and then we're going to be done with our day but i wanted to bring you guys in and show you how we get this done we got all the tools out that we need air gun with some nails a drill with a phillips bit we got our phillips screws and we got a countersink bit show you what that guy does here in a little bit uh we got our balusters we got our rail so first thing i'm gonna do and uh this is pretty much step one guys and this is marking out the piece for the rail so what i'm going to do is i'm going to set it flat here on top of the rake of the stairs i'm going to push it up towards the drywall and this is called the brick molding on the outside of the door you'll normally see this with the front door and your garage door and i've slid it past i'm still tight to the stringer i slid it past i'm just going to draw a line right there and that's all i really need one thing i want you guys to kind of keep the note too is this brick molding uh there is a detail so there is there is a slight angle going on here so we're gonna we're gonna account for that the best we can and it's gonna be shown here to you in just a second but now that we've we've got our angle that we're looking for we're gonna head to the saw this angle does change so it's off within a couple degrees every once in a while so yes doing these all the time i should know exact measurement but laying it down scribing it out is the best way to do it so let's head over to the saw real quickly lay my piece on the saw and then since i've got the handy the wall with the light i'm just going to kind of see my shadow line and i'm just going to try to get it as close as i can to the angle which i'm happy about right there lock the saw in in this case it looks like we're at 35 and like a quarter degree so like i said it could be a 36 it could be a 34 it all changes now the other thing we need to do is we need to cut this at an angle like i said on that brick molding there's a slight angle so what we do in that degree we know it's a 9 degree so we've already got our saw locked in at the angle of the rake we now need to come over here for a compound miter and i need to move this side over to nine degrees i like it tighten the saw tighten it down not too too tight but get it snug so it won't move so now we've got it set at a nine degree bevel right there under a miter i apologize nine degree miter and it's still locked in at our 35 and a quarter so now we are set to make our first cut and we're not going to go from our line we're going to go from the very tip of our piece of material so here we go we're going to get it nice and flush to the saw right to the tip of the material and here we go all right guys we've made our first cut and as you can see it's kind of a compound cut right there so we're going to walk back over to the stairs so follow me back over here nice and easy because it's right back and forth so the next step we're going to lay it back down slide it up to the brick mold and if you can tell with that compound we've kind of yeah i know there's a little bit of gap behind there but i'm not custom perfectly scribing this piece in but we've we've angled it we've covered a good portion of our gap i like the angle on both sides so now i need to hold it tight up to the brick molding and i need to come down here and i usually i eyeball an inch and a half past the end of your stringer i usually eyeball it about an inch and a half and then we need another mark right here at this point so after that's done we head back over to the saw so come back over to the saw guys we're going to lane it lay it back down now i need to move the saw back from our last cut back up to a zero obviously back straight lock it in and we need to keep the same 35 and a half keep that same cut on both sides so since we're already locked in at 35 and a half i've come past my eyeball inch and a half roughly and we're gonna go for another cut [Music] all right so we just made our first cut off of our first line and i have this little tick for the point of our stringer so now on this one i need to come over to a 54 54 degree lock it in and write it that point on the 54. we're gonna make this cut let's just see if my eyeball was pretty close what do you think guys i was like was i close enough to inch and a half i think i think i'm like for the video for that what we were just showing there it's an inch and nine but i'm happy with that so i'm gonna take a quick piece of sandpaper out of my pocket here and i'm just gonna hit these edges real quick because they're sharp from the saw okay so we've got our first piece marked out all based off of our string of our stairs now this kind of comes to be an important part because this does need to meet code the inspector will measure this and if we fail we're going to have to redo it because the door is sitting back the stringer isn't coming straight up and the door isn't right under the angle of the stringer see how the stringer kind of flattens out and the door sits back just given this condition it's kind of hard for me to explain it and do the math to show you but given this condition we actually have to lift our measurement that we're gonna do over here in order for it to work out eventually on the two points that we're gonna measure later so bear with me guys we're just going to do 38 and a half right off the bat and i know this i'm just doing many of them that we're going to be safe there so we got our mark over here and my next step is to get the rail right on our point right on the edge of the brick molding and look down below because the brick molding is nice and flush with the stairs we're going to get our hand rail right nice on the edge of our brick molding i'm gonna put two shots in one two make sure it's all straightened out nice and flush i'm gonna get a shot on the side maybe one more on this side all right so one quick screw needs to go in real fast just so this doesn't go anywhere and then we're gonna move to our balusters but we're gonna pull out our handy countersink bit which has edges that will kind of sink the head of the screw for us so let's make sure we get one screw nice in the center miss the nails just push it down a little bit just so it leaves that perfect little hole that's what the bit is meant to do it's a countersink bit just for this exact reason you take your screw run it in nice and snug but it countersinks the screw doesn't destroy your material awesome little little handy tool okay so now we got our handrail set in place let's check our dimensions i know this was 38 and a half but our points need to be from the front of the stairs at the bottom and from the front of the stair at the top so let's check down here below and i'm just going to eyeball my tape measure you know straight up and down to be the best you know eyeballing level on my tape measure and it looks like we're at about 36 and a half and guys that is in code code is anywhere from possibly 35 and a half all the way up to 38 so we're at that actually 36 and a half to 36 three quarter mark on the bottom come up top level it up and i can't believe you guys it's the exact same measurement at on the top as well now if we measured 36 and and three quarters from here our rail would be set down low given the condition right here that i'm saying the door is set further back than the stringer given that condition we needed to raise this measurement to get to get this within code so next step guys balusters got all of our balusters let's walk right over here to the saw again i'm going to set them down on all these cuts this is just how dr likes it you could leave the baluster square you can nip the tips of them you can kind of do whatever i like to cut two at a time and it's just a 45 degree cut and it's going to be right really close to the end all of them need to be pretty close to the same size so here we go guys i've got six of these to cut let's do it right six of them cut all of the same length and this last baluster we're going to take over and we're going to mark it at the height that we want it so let's head back over we're going to set our balusters up here on the side just out of the way we're going to come down and we're going to want our baluster here on the end of the stringer nice flush to the end here now what i will want to do though is i want to want to get out my little i'll call it my speed level or my torpedo level and i'm going to want to get this baluster level just so i can know my perfect height and i always eyeball this as well guys so i like just right here and it's going to show just a little half inch reveal all the way up you'll see as we nail them in so i got my mark head back over to the saw since i made the mark since i made that mark that way i got to turn the saw back this way so still a 45 and uh one cut all right back over usually put like a little star on that one so i don't mix up the balusters for any reason that they were to fall all right first baluster we're putting it right back into position just as we marked it out here on the bottom nice and flush we're gonna do two shots one at the bottom two at the bottom let's get our handy level and let's make sure we get that bubble in the center of those lines kind of takes a second there it is we're gonna do another two shots two shots there it is now if you could come up this way for me check this side out because this was an important deal you guys saw me add an inch and a half i eyeballed it down here at the bottom we've leveled this baluster now check this out guys up here at the top inch and a half roughly sticking off the side and we need this to meet code this piece on your handrail needs to exceed the length of the stringer below so that inch and a half pretty much golden it's perfectly lined up i'm here i'm going to take my shot right now i'm going one more at the bottom here that one's in position it's level we are we are good now i've pre-cut a piece of casing at three and three quarters code for in between balusters is no larger than four inches no larger or else you are out of code four inches a possible infant or someone could fall through so anything smaller than four inches you'll be passing code i do three and three quarters i use a block we've leveled this first one out so we're going to use our block here we go getting this same just eyeballing the same space same two shots at the top slide my block down right down here to the bottom two shots at the bottom [Music] all right guys two inch nails coming out of the gun two shots at the top two shots at the bottom it is pretty solid right now it's been nailed together these are perfectly spaced i'm liking the looks of it right now it looks nice and clean but there's still one more step that we need to do we need to use the countersink guys and i need one screw at the top and two at the bottom so let's countersink them and get them prepped out for the screws [Music] all right all holes are drilled out be careful this sucker is going to be hot so i always just pop it off and throw it off to the side there let's get our phillips bit i got my phillips i got my phillips screws so now guys we just need to put a screw in every hole here so let's screw this off and get it done [Music] so all right guys we're all screwed off this thing is solid it's it's not going anywhere one screw at the top two at the bottom we got our one up here someone's gonna have to break this thing in order for this thing to come apart um there is one thing i got right into and had fun like getting to the install and using the saw and it's exciting for me to do that stuff but i forgot one crucial step um and this is especially for those who are installing these for track homes or people that are doing this kind of in a business level not necessarily homeowners but on a on a business level we do want our handrail especially if it's only on one side three stairs one side if it was four stairs we'd probably put in another one on the other side because at that height we're gonna need both sides covered but in this case where it's just one rail on one side it needs to be so your hand follows up the rail and goes right to the door knob when you're walking up the stairs so you guys are doing this for business put it on the side with the knob just like most wall mounts in the house you guys know keep them on the same side make it easy for the homeowner to turn those switches on uh if you guys learned something hit that like button subscribe uh just a quick and easy how-to brian and i are done for the day now so we get to wrap up kind of all of our tools out here in the garage get them in the two tundras out there and then we're headed out for the day so um thank you guys for watching and until next time we will see you later peace

Channel: Hunter Carlson

Views: 94,162

Keywords: woodworking, carpentry, DIY, do it yourself, how-to, garage steps, garage stair handrail, handrail, how to make handrail, hand railing, wooden handrail, Home Repair, how to build handrail, how to build handrail for steps, home improvement, handrail installation, how to install stair handrail, step-by-step, railing frame, garage stair ideas, garage stairs diy, garage stairs makeover, stair handrail, garage stair railing, D.R. Horton, Dewalt Tools, countersink drill bit, Homeowner

Id: Rqt1r10DJY4

Length: 17min 17sec (1037 seconds)

Published: Sat Nov 07 2020