Easy Cabinet Face Frames For Beginners

a few weeks back I made a base cabinet for the  shop but I never had time to put the face frame on   it so today I'll walk you through an easy way to  get that job done to assemble today's face frame   you'll need a few basic tools a Kreg jig set and  like this one I got it for about 18 dollars and   you'll also need some screws a square bit driver  and a clamp the clamp I'm using is a $20 face   clamp also made by Craig but if you already have  some cheap clamps like these you can totally make   those work too the material were using is 3/4  by an inch and a half pine then I rip down from   wider stock but you can buy this material already  sized at the lumberyard if you'd like when you're   building face frames it's important to know the  difference between the styles in the rails the   rails on the face frame run horizontally while  the stiles run vertically and if you take a closer   look you can see that the rails fit between the  Stiles this is really important to know when it   comes to cutting and assembling the frame because  I want my cabinet to have to finish sides meaning   that once it's installed you're gonna see both  sides I'm choosing to have the face frame Stiles   overhang the box by quarter of an inch which  leaves a half-inch reveal on the inside however   they overhang for the top and bottom rails will  be different from the styles and different from   each other the top rail sits flush with the top  of the cabinet leaving a 3/4 inch reveal on the   inside while the bottom rail overhangs the cabinet  by about 5/8 of an inch and leaves 1/8 of an inch   for an inside reveal now by no means is this  the only way to assemble face frames but for   the purpose of this video we're gonna keep it easy  to find the length of the stiles measure from the   top of the cabinet down to the bottom shelf then  add 5/8 of an inch for the overhang transfer that   measurement to your face frame material and cut  to pieces using a handsaw or a power miter box   to find the length of the rails take one of the  styles and hold it in place on the cabinet making   sure to have the correct amount of overhang  then make a pencil mark on the left side of   the style this mark represents the end of the rail  on the right side repeat this process on the left   measuring and marking for its location well that  all done measure between the two pencil marks to   determine the total length for the top and bottom  rales let me give you a quick tip when you're   measuring between two specific pencil marks like  what we have here instead of using the hook end   on the tape measures the starting point for your  measurement use the one-inch mark instead this   gives you a better visual on the pencil marks and  eliminates some of the guesswork because you're   starting from an exact point on the tape measure  just be sure to deduct one inch from your overall   measurement again because you're starting from one  in not zero with all four pieces cut the length   it's time to drill the pocket holes pocket holes  are made from a jig like this which is made mostly   of plastic but it has a metal sleeve that directs  a drill bit at an angle into the wood there are   two important things is set up before drilling  begins first you need to set the depth collar   to the proper position on the bit craig recommends  setting the collar at 3 9/16 for 3/4 inch material   and that's what we're using today to set the  collar position loosen the allen screw and adjust   the collar either up or down until you've reached  your 3 and 9/16 and then tighten everything back   up the last thing the setup or know is - where to  locate the jig on the material Craig recommends   setting the jig flush to the end for 3/4 inch  material so now that you've got the bit all set   up and you know where to place the jig on the  material it's time to drill four holes because   the rails fit between the styles the pocket holes  will only need to be drilled in the rails one on   each end to do that locate the jig in the center  of the rail flush to the end and clamp it in place   with the bit tucked up in a drill and the drill  set to the drill setting drill your first hole   remove the clamp and repeat this process three  more times to assemble add glue to the end grain   of one rail and line it up with the style using  the clamp hold it into position while installing   your first screw the screws I'm using here are an  inch and a quarter Kraig screws as you continue to   assemble the frame make sure not to over tighten  the screws so use caution while driving them and   if you want it's a great opportunity to use the  clutch on your drill before the glue dries do a   final inspection which includes making sure that  all the joints are tight and flushed then once   you're happy and the glues had time to dry go  ahead and do your final sanding the face cream   can be attached in many different ways let's look  at three methods the first and easiest method is   to add glue and then add a few face nail Brad's  to hold the frame into position while the glue   dries and this is the method I'm going to be using  on this cabinet of course if you're painting the   cabinet like I am this is totally acceptable  even in some cases where you're staining the   cabinet face nailing still works the second method  uses glue and multiple clamps to hold the frame   into position until the glue dries this of course  requires a lot of clamps maybe eight to ten for a   cabinet of this size but if you don't have a lot  of clamps there is a way to do it with less and   that's what the aid of a call calls of pieces  of material bought or made that have a slight   crown to them and are used to help distribute  clamping pressure over a longer distance for   example this one call could be used on the left  side here reducing the amount of clamps needed   again because the call is helping to spread out  the clamping pressure the last method is to use a   Kreg jig to drill pocket holes in the side of the  cabinet of course more planning would have to be   done to make sure the pockets are either hidden  or covered up regardless of what method you use   be sure to check the fit of the face frame before  adding any glue as you can imagine once the face   frame is set in the glue it moves around very  easily so if you can't get it fast and quickly   like with a few Brad's then it can become a bit  messy and a bit discouraging therefore one trick   that a lot of woodworkers use is to put four Brad  nails in each corner of the cabinet and then snip   off each one leaving only about 1/16 to 1/8 of an  inch once that's done you can add your glue and   this time when you position the frame on the box  the nails hold the frame above the glue giving you   the flexibility to move it around without a big  mess then once you're happy with its position you   can tap the frame down into the Brad's and into  the glue securing it in place and you can get the   clamps on whatever method you decide to do just  make sure that you double check your work you take   your time and when in doubt add another clamp  thanks for watching if you have any questions   leave them as always in the comments section thank  you so much for watching see everybody next week

Channel: Training Hands Academy

Views: 42,782

Rating: 4.9564428 out of 5

Keywords: face frame, how to, kreg jig, pocket hole, cabinet construction, diy cabinets, how to make cabinet face frames, face frame cabinet construction, Easy Cabinet Face Frames For Beginners, woodworking, diy, cabinet, how-to, kreg, wood, face, frame, cabinetry, carpentry, build, making, cabinet making, face frames, pocket, jig, how to build cabinets, make, cabinets, building, miter, how, woodworker, plywood, project, training hands academy, beginner woodworking, do it yourself, clamping cauls woodworking

Id: VwziyjpblOM

Length: 6min 42sec (402 seconds)

Published: Fri May 01 2020