DuxxBak Advanced Installation

hey folks my name is Gary daley and I am America's deck builder we're here at a lumber yard in Simpsonville South Carolina where we're going to talk about the more advanced placement of the Ducks backwater shedding deck system this is segment 2 if you haven't seen segment 1 I'd like you to go back and watch that then come back and join us in segment 1 we talked about a deck structure that was built to accommodate the ducks back system in this segment we've got an old existing deck that we're going to resurface with the ducks back and because it's built in a traditional fashion with the Leger attached to the house and the joists running perpendicular to that we need to alter the structure a bit so that we can accommodate the decking now remember in segment 1 we talked about how the water runs off the decking in the direction of the deck boards well since we have to run these across the decking across the deck structure and perpendicular to the joists now we have to create a slope minimum 1/8 inch per foot we'd like a little bit more if you can get 3/16 that's great but we're going to work with 1/8 today and we're going to start in the middle and slope the deck out now because this is an existing structure we're going to have to build this structure up a bit so we're going to use shims to do that follow along so the objective here is to create a crown rather than a peak so what we've done is we've taken the length of the deck 14 feet and we've come to the middle which is 7 feet since we need 1/8 inch per foot of slope to the end of the deck well we need 7 7/8 of an inch from the center to the end so if we take the deck board and pull it up 7/8 of an inch you can see that we don't have a peak here and it's a sudden drop straight down each side rather it's a gentle slope so that's what we're going to try to achieve now if we were building a new structure we could build it in that fashion but because we're using an existing structure we're going to need to measure each ship as we go along so what we're going to do is I've created my Center shim already I know that 7/8 of an inch common thinking would say oh well then this one's going to be 3/4 that one's going to be 5/8 that one's going to be half that would be a solid slope we don't want that again we want a crown so we're going to stick our 7/8 inch under here and we're going to use a straight edge the straight edge is just it's pretty rigid a little bit flexible you could use a 3 inch PVC pipe or anything else you have on hand it isn't solidly rigid that's going to allow that gentle slope and we're going to pull it in here and we're going to measure each one of our shims as we go out toward the end of the deck okay so what I've done is I've taken my fairly rigid but kind of flexible straightedge I've got my 7/8 shim under the center and I've clamped it at both ends and so I've created a nice gentle dome that's going to give me that 1/8 per foot slope from the center to the ends of the deck now I'm going to go ahead and I'm going to measure each shim that I need to rip and because this is an existing structure remember this is going to vary a lot you know common think you would have a say well geez we could just cut shims to accommodate if you have a new structure you might be able to do that but I still want you to clamp this straight edge on and measure each one so I've got my handy dandy pink notepad here and a pen I'm going to go from senator Wright and from Senator left and right down each measurement you okay so we've ripped all of our shims if you look here you can see they're nice and snug so we've got a good fit I'm going to secure my shims either with screws or with finish nails I prefer to screw everything together just it's never going to come apart make for a more solid structure but we don't really have to worry too much about securing the shims to this permanently to the joist permanently because when we come in later with our decking we're going to use a longer two and a half inch finish screw to secure that down and as you can see that's going to secure everything real tight the decking to the shim to the joist okay so we've got to have it secured all of our Sims with finished screws we're ready to put some decking down but before we do that we want to prep our our fascia now I've tacked a piece of fascia here just temporarily for demonstration purposes what you're going to do is you're going to make sure you've got this thing covered from one end to the other and what we what we'll do is tack the fascia board up against the decking and then we're going to scribe our slope on the backside of that fascia board I've gone ahead and done that with this using a sharpie and I've come right down the length of the entire deck I'm going to take that fascia board off and I'm going to cut that slope so that it fits nice underneath this piece this piece is actually going to be our starter board out on the end and it's going to sit out over the fascia what the fascia is going to do is going to conceal all these shims and that slope is going to make for a nice finished appearance okay with our fascia board trimmed now we're ready to prep our starter board this is going to be our starter board now I want to have an inch overhang over the end of the deck over over our fascia board but I don't want to see this up underneath so I'm going to rip this whole leg off using the table saw and come right down just along that edge and I'm going to leave that i-beam leg because that's where the strength of my decking is after I rip it with a table saw I'm going to route it over with us with a light sander a belt sander and make it look finished make it look real pretty okay I've gone ahead and prepped my starter board I've ripped this leg completely off and this is what I'm left with so this is going to be the finished edge of my deck so I'm going to go ahead and just hit this with a light belt sander up top and bottom give a little bit of a finished appearance and if there's any imperfections here you can blend those in as well now in order to install this I want to measure back the width of the decking and there are two ways to install this depending on where we're going to place our fascia we can either bring our fascia up alongside this that's not the way I prefer to do it I prefer to have my decking hanging out over what I place two marks here so we can talk about each system if we're going to place our debt our fascia up in front of everything in front of the decking then we just measure back the width of this deck board and snap a line there if we're going to have it hanging out over then I have to figure one inch overhang plus my 7/16 fascia and so I take the five and thirteen sixteen minus the one in 7/16 ended up with four and three eighths and that's why I marked here so I've snapped a line at four and three-eighths as you can see that gives me the overhang that I need okay we've got our marks for our starter board now we're ready to secure the product we're going to pull the board into place I'm going to get it right on our marks and we're going to secure this down now for this application with the shims as we talked about before we're going to be using the two-and-a-half exclusively two and a half inch trim head finish screw so the first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to secure the board on my mark all the way down in the center of the board so that my screw goes down into the rim joist through the shim into the into the rim joist then I'm going to come and I'm going to still using the two and a half's I'm going to secure the board here at each joist all right with the first board secure we're ready to start stacking our decking all the way across to the house and as we've discussed in in the in the original segment and we have to interlock our product set it in and pull it tight take our two and a half inch screws and holding this tight lock it down I like to do every third or fourth one and then come back and fill in it kind of gives me a good shake out but for this demonstration we'll just go right down the line okay as we work towards the house installing the decking we've run into a rail post and so now I'm going to talk a little bit about what we need to do to prep and make sure that we're watertight around the rail post so the water continues to shut off the deck and when we're going to trim our deck board around the post and we have to maintain a 3/16 gap all the way around to allow for movement of the decking expansion and contraction with variations in temperature but another thing that we need to do is we need to introduce a bead of caulking into the groove of the product because we're going to cut around we have to figure out some way to keep the water from falling down into the gutter because it's because we're going to cut into the gutter so we're going to take some caulking and we're going to caulk right into the groove of the board we're going to make sure we fill it up real good we want to try not to get it up above that because we really don't want to see it up above and then we're going to take we're going to put the next board in and we're going to have a nice seal there so the water will run down across the board rather than down into the channel all right so I've gone ahead and marked out the cuts that I need to remove to to get around my rail post so as you can see when I put these boards together I'm going to cut this out and it gives me that extra 3/16 all the way around so that it'll allow for expansion and contraction it also gets me three and a half inches past so I've got my overhang there that I'm going to be looking for later all right I've gone ahead and cut out the notches for our post remember there are three six three sixteenths bigger all the way around so I'm going to go ahead and install it now I have to get past my post bring it in drop it in make sure I'm tight against my groove I got 3/16 both sides I'm going to go ahead screw it in and then in preparation for the next piece remember we have to put a bead of caulking all the way down in this groove a nice thick bead also remember that we only have two we don't ever have to call an interrupted channel so because this is going to be interrupted by the post we got to seal it up so no water can get down into the gutter here we don't have to apply adhesive anywhere else on the deck except on the flashing but this is the only channel that we have to do so we're not going to do it but we're going to pretend we did it put it into place let our landed up drop some screws in and continue to work towards the house okay we've come all the way across the across the deck towards the house and we're up to our last piece so we have to create a finish board and we've created a faux house here against which we're going to install our board you can see that we've got flashing here it's out in front of the house wrap you can do it out in front of the house wrap or some building inspectors want it behind whatever we have flashing going down between the ledger in the house and that's the effect so I measured the distance from the last board to the house and I'm going to subtract 3/16 from that because remember we always want a 3/16 gap whenever we're installing this stuff between any fixed structure and the deck board to allow for deck move it expansion and contraction so this is the width that I've come up with and for demonstration purposes I'm going to show you how to install it now remember we're going to have to run a bead of caulking down in here because this is an interrupted channel the post is in the way so we're going to caulk our fold rip we're going to set it in place and we're going to drive a screw down now when we screw this in you can see that this is an open-cell we want to make sure that we keep our screw as close as possible to this i-beam so that we don't collapse this cell we want to try and maintain that integrity we're going to set it in screw it down now we're going to flash over the top now with the flashing out over the top of the decking remember we don't want to bend it more than a 90 lest it should stick up later so we want to bend it at about an 82 yeah at about an 80 and then as we push it down and we talk underneath we can push it down and it's going to stay down it's going to compress the caulking that we're going to put underneath there under the front edge alright so we've gone ahead and cut a longer piece of our finish board so I can show you how to install this now you can see we've got we've maintained a 3/16 inch gap between the house and the last piece and then I'll allow for expansion and contraction we've gone ahead and filled this channel with caulking because this is an interrupted channel that's going to keep the water up on top so it's not going to fall down in our gutter here and now we're ready to flash this we've got a flashing down between the ledger in the house now we need to flash so that water any water that comes down outside of the siding is going to wash out across the deck and be able to shed off the end of the deck so I've notched this around my post as you can see I've got almost a 90 and I explained in the earlier segments why we don't want to go 90 or past so before I saw this I want to run a bead of caulking about a half inch out in front of the cut all the way down along the house I'm gonna bring my flashing slide it down into place I'm going to compress it so that that bead of caulking underneath is nice and squished and I'm going to hit this with a hammer staple it or hold it into place then I'm going to come and I'm as you saw in the previous segment flash around my post if I've done all this stuff just right we're going to end up with a really nice watertight deck no leaks whatsoever alright we've completed the decking it's all the way across to the house everything's nice and watertight so now we're ready to trim our ends I wanted one inch overhang and I have a 7/16 inch trim board over which I want that 1 inch so I've measured that one in 7/16 from the end of the structure and I stamped a line so I'm ready to go ahead and cut that get my safety glasses rock and roll one of the last things we need to do to finish this deck is to install our end caps this is an end cap and don't know if you can see it from there but it's got an R right here it means it's on the right side of the deck there's there's some that say L they on the left side of the deck it's pretty important that you read these things this one's going to go on the right it has the word up and an arrow it has to go in this direction because there's reliefs here that will allow any moisture that might condensate in here to roll out not interruptive it's not going to build up inside so once we've established we've got the right one we're going to put it in place just like this I'm going to pop it in you can either put some some adhesive inside before you pop it in or you can come up from the bottom with a trim nail or a or a stainless screw just make sure you don't come up through the top you can see that we've got a little opening here any water that goes down through this channel is going out through the opening through the weep hole oK we've gone ahead and installed all of our end caps and now we're ready to finish it with the fascia if you remember back a couple steps we cut our arc on the front and install that fascia and on this side we're going to bring this piece in hold it hold it up tight slide it back till it's nice and flush out front put a couple screws in and you can see what a nice finish deck we're going to have okay so we've established how we're going to trim our deck with an overhanging decking so we're going to bring the face you end up under the decking now I want to talk a little bit about a more advanced design and I would really advise against this unless this is absolutely the way that your client wants your deck to be trimmed one thing that we always have to maintain is water flow from every channel in this product because condensation can build up in there it's going to have some way to escape so if we're to take a trim board and come up and block that well guess what that water is stuck and we're going to have problems down the road so we have to maintain drainage because the deck has slipped in this direction towards this end I have to maintain these holes and if you could see underneath this piece you'd see that we still have these holes open here now what I've created I've just ripped some pieces from trim board and created spacers to set my actual trim board out away so I'm not blocking up the holes the spacers need to be installed here every 12 inches because we need our screws to be every 12 inches we need three fasteners every 12 inches so yeah basically we kind of created a facade to step out fascia that's going to allow the drainage to come down in behind one of the primary components of that step up fascia is flashing because water water will come back as it drains down it'll come back underneath the surface of something so we want this fascia to go in underneath the decking so we've installed it here back underneath the decking on top of our rim joists our or our end joist so if water does roll back under it's going to roll it out over so that's the basic setup and what we're going to do is and take our trim board and just like as we did before we're going to make sure we're flush out on the end here and we're going to invest in three screws every 12 inches for since we've got those spacers there it might not be a bad idea at little pencil mark here so we know where they are okay one more option for sawing the Ducks back deck system is a bigger deck if this deck weren't fourteen feet but was around 30 or 40 feet we're going to need to incorporate two lengths of decking and in order to do that and maintain a watertight product we're going to need to incorporate our feature strip so the first thing we need to do is build a box frame or install blocking in the center of our deck and we're going to slope the same dome fashion we're going to slope out towards the ends of the deck so the water runs off and sheds properly once we've built establish the framing the structure then we're going to snap two lines this width plus 3/4 that's going to give us 3/16 on each side so we're going to snap two lines across the deck up against which we're going to push our decking so as we bring each decking piece in in order to achieve that watertight that we're looking for we're going to drop some caulking down in the channel and what that's going to do is going to keep the wind from driving any water that can seep down in there back in underneath our leg here so so we're going to caulk that bring the next piece in set it in place caulk that bring the next piece in set it in place and we're going to have it all in that line on the other side we're going to have these guys up against that line once we've got all of our decking laid out and we've got that gap in here that again is this width plus 3/4 now we're going to take our caulking we're going to run a bead down this side as close to the edge as possible and it would be down this side I'm going to take our a feature strip drop it in and drive a row of screws down the center its secured we won't have any water running up the middle because we've got our coffee down in there and we won't have any water running back underneath because we've got our caulking here nice tight water seal so we've completed building this beautiful deck and now it's time to clean up that's just what we're going to do here in Simpsonville South Carolina in the meantime watch the full series of videos and learn how to install the stuff properly you're going to end up with a beautiful deck - from Simpsonville I'm Gary Daly and I am America's deck builder you

Channel: DuxxBak Composite Decking

Views: 16,059

Rating: 4.8857141 out of 5

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Id: xVO4YfTg4Lo

Length: 21min 12sec (1272 seconds)

Published: Tue Aug 02 2016