DSO138 Digital Oscilloscope Kit step by step build

hi welcome to robo jacks in this video we are going to build this ds0138 oscilloscope kit so this is a kit that is sold between 20 to 50 dollars in different markets and it's amazingly solid you learn how to assemble it from that and also you will also can use it practically this can measure up to 200 kilohertz so that is enough for a beginner to learn electronic bandwidth is about 200 kilohertz and it has multiple switches for selecting the sensitivity so two sensitivity one would be the probe multiplication and also multiply by 1 2 and 5 and also 10 millivolts 100 millivolts and 1 volts selection as you can see here dc coupling switch here dc ac then we have a test point here which gives you one kilohertz uh square wave and then we have four buttons with the one reset so these buttons are for selecting period and trigger mode and some other options when i press this button here and hold it it shows full detail of the waveform for example it shows now the frequency the period the duty which is 50 up and down and then amplitude all those information now it shows its whole so if i press it again now the value is real time so if i change from my oscilloscope now it's nine kilohertz it's exactly the same that i have on my tektronix oscilloscope and then finally we will build this case so the oscilloscope is protected and nicely and then finally we will build that this case so the oscilloscope is protected and nicely and then finally we will build this case let's get started building this selected this is ds0138 kit so this is the first and it comes with nice manual properly printed so this one it says smt component installation guide so on this side we have chinese and this side is english that's one sheet ds013 that says it says user manual so from here it says step one step two it explains it but this side is also continuous so it's up to step 22. so a lot of explanation and also troubleshooting so this is very nice now we also have a schematic diagram which explains how this has been assembled and also here connection controls and operations how to use the oscilloscope so this is the display that's very nice to exit to get the signal out with bnc connector and alligator clips and this is the main board as you can see ds0138 it's double-sided pcb with a main chip which is very hard to solder so the chip is already installed and the components are all the components are here so let's just follow the instruction and start building it then to this note it says that smd component the surface mount devices must be installed prior to the installation of through-hole component which means all other components should be installed later so i have to do this which i have to follow these components to be installed first in this section but i've already installed the resistors which i know this after that so that is still not an issue because they are not blocking my path in soldering the three goes here and that is u2 you two goes here this is u1 which you don't have to do it and the rest of the components are here they are all labeled properly moving first the 10 kilo ohm resistors on this side i'm just removing it like that and then we can remove it with a flat screwdriver and then pop it out with tweezer so we need six of those so five here and then one more from there so the first one so let's see r17 20 23. i like to also i'd like to also explain the resistor for example this is three three two so three is also three that the second digit is digit the two is number of zeros so this is 3300 ohm or 3.3 kilo ohm while this one is 103. that three is the last digit is number of zeros this is 10 kilo ohm the other one is you can see 152 that is 15015 and then two zeros so let me clarify the value for the 22 ohm as you can see here so we have two two and then one zero the zero at the end means no digit nothing kilo ohm resistor i'm putting it here so this is the r17 that's the spot so r17 is a 10 kilo ohm so first you have to apply a little solder there that's done and then put this and solder it so i will hold it with tweezer hopefully i can do it with my left hand so one side is done then the other side will be very easy so that has been soldered so we had our 17 20 34 35 and 41 r17 r20 r23 r 34 35 and r41 19 22 25 31 1.5 kilo ohm 19 22 25 and 31 so we have one kilo ohm 27 32 33 42 so here is 27 32 33 and 42 r18 21 24 are 3.3 kilo ohm so r18 r21 and here is r24 r29 and r30 are 22 ohm so r29 and r30 are here now this is a u2 spot for the u2 for this chip and notice that there is a small notch here so the same way that there is a small dot so this must maybe this way because this is pin one and so forth up to the end it counts like that so this goes exactly here so you put it and align it properly and then solder one side once it's so other than solder the other side and continue so we have to start at one point so just let's say i'm just attaching one solder here so that is enough to hold this for me i want to make sure that this is aligned all the pens are properly aligned because once you solder it then you cannot move it so that pen has been attached so now one pin is attached and now i'm gonna apply the soldering the solder into the other pins slowly so if the two pins got together just clean the soldering iron and then come back so that has been cleared now i'm soldering this side so this chip has been now soldered let me zoom in so you can see it now i'm soldering this u3 so this is the spot the same way one spot should have some solder and then put that so i have applied solder at this spot now i'm just holding it to make sure that this is attached here and then now giving the given some solder here so this is also done to check the uh each resistor you need a multimeter because this color the blue color of this these resistors these are metal film not carbon film the colors are not easily identifiable so you have to check on one side on the other side make sure that your finger does not touch because for the higher value you see here even if i put my hand you can read some value so this is disturbing the calculation so make sure that one side if you hold with your hand the other side should be just free for example this shows 180 ohm so this is a hundred kilo ohm so we have three of those 100 kilo ohm that is r1 r14 and then here r16 so r11 is here 150 ohm r3 200 kilo ohm so this is r3 so 1.5 kilo ohms or 38 so that's r38 r5 is 20 kilo ohm and here it is located we have our 8 12 and 13 120 ohm so r8 and here is 12 and here is 13. r2 1.8 mega here quarter d7 r39 10 kilo ohm here is 37 and r39 so we have r9 r15 and r26 one kilo ohm so that is r9 this is our 15 and that is our 26 r4 is 2 mega ohm and here is the location r10 is 3 kilo ohm and here is the location r7 and r36 180 ohm here is r7 and here is r36 so r28 our 40 is 470 ohm so that is 28 and that is all 40. i've attached all these resistors that are listed here all of them and on this side they are like this so now i'm going to solder them all now i'm attaching these three inductors they call it rfc choke i've soldered now l3 l3 l1 l4 so these are the same value i just soldered them here so now we have the diode d1 d2 so d1 goes here which is labeled as 58 19 and d2 is 4004 in here so these two diodes these are the diodes and if you look uh carefully they are exactly the same except the numbers are different so which i'm just following the same number and soldering it one thing to pay attention is that is cathode so there is a line make sure that you put it in the same direction the same way for the other one now i'm going to solder the 8 megahertz crystal so this is a crystal it is written 8 megahertz and it goes here and here is a usb connector usb connector goes here this is optional but i'm gonna install it anyways so just insert it make sure it's held so now this is holding itself it doesn't need any help now i'm going to solder this this push button switches of sw 4 5 6 7 and 8 so they go here because we are connecting the one of the pin to the ground so the switch doesn't need to have any direction although the switch has its own characteristic to be used specifically but because it doesn't matter here we just put it in any way you wish for the these ceramic capacitors we have to make sure that you cannot push it otherwise if you push it too much it can break so be careful not to push it too hard just leave it a little high that's enough and then bend the pen and solder it so the rest of these capacitors to these capacitors are 0.1 micro farad or 100 nano farad so 100 nano farad is 100 000 pico farad so this is one zero four very faded written on it so four mean four zero so one zero plus four that's five zero with a one so this is hundred thousand picofarad or uh a hundred thousand picofarad or hundred nanofarad or 0.1 microfarad c1 c9 c10 c11 c14 c15 16 17 18 c20 c23 c2 is 330 picofarad and it has written as 331 and c2 goes here so c3 is three picofarad it has just the number three on it and it goes here c3 so c5 is one picofaran picofarad and it's written one it goes here so c7 and c8 are 120 picofarad and as you can see it's written as 121. so c7 is here and c8 is here c12 and 13 are 22 picofarad so they have 22 written on them and here is c12 and c13 now i'm soldering the led here the light emitting diode in here the longer pin is positive and that should be on this side this is the pin header j9 will be here so that here two transistors of q1 and q2 are going here and according to the manual q1 is 8550 q2 is 9014 and it is written on them the way you put it is the flat side should be here as you can see and the round side should be there i'm inserting these two voltage regulators 1878 or five one is seven eight or nine so they go accordingly 7905 goes here and 7805 goes here so these are five volt regulator one is negative one is positive so c4 and c6 so these are two variable capacitors so l2 is a one micro henry inductor doesn't have any polarity and it goes here we have six uh 100 micro farad 16 volt capacitor it has polarity so that it has negative and positive and also positive has a longer pen so here if we can count them here one two three four five six make sure to pay attention for the polarity that's clearly labeled as plus on that side so the dc power for the nine volts jack will be inserted in here we will cut from this header three pin and then four pin four goes here and the three goes here so we will use this two pin and then this twenty pin header these two will go here at j7 and j seven and eight and this the big one will go here now i'll insert the switch here so make sure to understand that there are missing pins here so two pin is together and three is on the other side so just insert it and then solder it here and then insert these two switches one here and the other one here switch has been soldered now and now we need to connect this bnc here picture because this is all metal it will not get solder so you have to hold it for long periods until the heat reaches here and it gets heat up so i just forced it to make sure it fits so you have to hold this for long so let me just solder this first now for this i will hold it longer now here bnc connector is also soldered just clip this excess of pen here it's very hot yet i'm not touching it you can create a u-type from this just bend it and then insert it there and solder it this is just this will be a test point so we will have it a little longer so now we have a test point here as you can see and now let's just shorten these two with the solders now connecting the nine volts here and after connecting it it says that check at this test point here and this tt tp22 and by connecting the other pin to the ground to make sure that we get 3.3 volts so here i have 9 volts here negative and outside and then inside i'm connecting it so that's 9 volts i'm connecting it there to measure the voltage at this point so this the positive is here the positive is here for the negative you can put it at this point or here it is it says ground or connected to this part all of them are good so i'm just holding it here like that and then just measuring here make sure it's just 3.3 volts so 3.27 that's good now if this is 3.3 volts then it says solder this test point here just so that there are two points solder them so beside the crystal that's test point just solder these two points you can see now it has been soldered now it's time to invert the lcd so this goes in this area and these two pens will be inserted at these two female headers make sure that this is aligned here also it's aligned so everything is good just push it so now the lcd is in place so that's good this is working now so oscilloscope turned on and it's colored so yes the first thing that when you touch it if it works you should get the this is the noise of ac signal around so it got fixed now let me connect it okay so now let me select thank you for 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Channel: Robojax

Views: 25,568

Keywords: electronic, tutorial, training, video, robojax, dso138, dso 138, oscilloscope, digital, solder, step by step, assembly, kit, make, build, explained, details, resistors, capacitor, ic, chip, how to, diy

Id: Nc3XQakqgn8

Length: 28min 37sec (1717 seconds)

Published: Thu Jan 11 2018