Double Wedding ring Quilt - THE EASY WAY!!!

hi i'm donna jordan from jordan fabrics and today i'm going to show you how to make a double wedding ring quilt now i've made a couple double wedding rings before this one here it's about 25 years old you might recognize some of these old concord country floral prints and it's really a fun pattern to make it's got nice circles you see some little diamonds in here and it's really satisfying to stitch it up now here's the thing about the double wedding ring it has these beautiful curved edges but unless you're going to make it small and do a flip finish like i did here you're going to have to put curved binding around it you also can't make the quilt any larger by adding borders unless you wanted to do a lot of complex curved stitching to get those borders on but i've found a template set and it comes with some nice instructions and this will allow us to make either a curved edge double wedding ring quilt or one that has square edges so we can put multiple blocks together and make a rectangular quilt we can add borders and then we can do traditional binding on it and i'm very excited to get started with this what we need to make this quilt is a background i've got this nice light green one here you need two accent fabrics these are going to end up in the diamond area and then you need something for your arcs either one fabric like i've used here or a variety of fabrics now if you're doing your arcs in one fabric you're going to need to cut them from yardage but if you're doing them patchwork like i've got here you can use either a jelly roll or charm squares or a layer cake and that's what i'm going to use now i'm going to make 12 of these blocks so i'm pretty much going to use up a whole layer cake to make the patchwork part here if you're using a different pre-cut or yardage you're going to need a different amount you're going to need different numbers to cut those so i've written up a little size chart and you can get that by clicking the link that's right below the video now in addition to the layer cake for the size that i'm making we're going to need a quarter yard of two different accent fabrics and two and a half yards of background the first thing we're going to do is take these layer cake squares and we're going to cut them into two and a half inch wide strips and that's why it's so easy to make this if you're using a jelly roll or you're using charm scores because the jelly roll is two and a half inches wide and the charms are five inches wide so you can just cut them in half so i'm going to take four or five squares at a time because that's easy for me to cut and i'm just going to slice it into two and a half inch widths once you have your strips cut we're ready to use our templates now you do need templates to make a double wedding ring quilt the templates i used on my last couple quilts were like this and they work great but you can only make a quilt with curved edges with this style also there's only a couple marks here to help you match up your curves when you're sewing them so you need a lot of hope i call it the hope and sew method to get these curves to match it does work but with this style there's a lot of marks we're going to put on the fabric and that will help us get to the skill of matching these curves a little bit quicker so i'm going to take these strips and i'm going to cut them with this wedge-shaped template and piece them back together and these are going to be used in our arc now if you're making your arc out of one fabric you can just go ahead and cut it using this but when you're piecing it you're going to take this template and just cut all these strips up like this so you cut one one way and now you flip the template over and it'll fit right on that edge there and then cut the other way and you'll notice because i've got these jagged edges here the template isn't fitting perfectly on there there's a little bit extra over there and that's okay because we're actually going to sew these all together then we're going to put this template on it and cut off all the excess so don't worry right now if they don't look like they're cut perfectly once you've got those cut head on over to the sewing machine pick out six different fabrics it doesn't really matter what goes where just try to get six different ones i've got this nice colorful group of boutiques so it's pretty easy for me to get six different ones let's get an orange one we're gonna put the fat part up here so when we stitch them together it's going to make a nice gentle arc so just put these right sides together and stitch them with a quarter inch seam open it up and then add the next piece keep doing that until we have a nice arc now the seam allowances we basically want to press them all towards the center so i can press this one towards the center this one towards the center then i can go over here that one's towards the center that one toward the center this middle one it doesn't matter which way you go either way is fine once you've got those all stitched into arcs you're going to want to iron them so i like to spread it out flat on the table and just give it a little bit of steam now we're going to use our arc template on these pieced things that we made now to make these next cuts you have to be able to move your cutting mat around because we're going to be cutting in all different directions so if you have a small mat that's perfect mine are all big so i'm going to use this one this is actually a rotating mat you don't have to have this style but it is pretty handy if you have one of these so put your piece piece on there and then we're going to put the template on here and we're just going to move it around so that where these marks are going to go these are not on a seam allowance for most of the cutting that i do i use this 60 millimeter cutter from alpha but it's a little too big when you're doing curves so i'm going to use a 45 millimeter cutter here and a lot of you probably use this for most of your cutting but it really is easier to do curves with a smaller cutter so i'm going to start on this long curve here so i'm just going to hold it down firmly go right around the edge and then i can rotate this and you'll see there's a little teeny bit we're going to cut off here we're going to cut off that corner a little bit then we'll do this edge and every corner gets cut off a little teeny teeny bit there and we'll go all the way around and every time i need to turn that mat i'm going to turn it keep making cuts till it's all done and you might be wondering is it hard to keep the template from moving and it can be but i've got some little sandpaper patches on here and the template set came with this sticky back sandpaper stuff so you can cut a little bit off tear off the backing and then stick it onto your templates so that keeps it from moving now if you don't like the feeling of that you can always flip it over and use it from this side where there's no sandpaper so it's nice you can use it either way now we want to make some little slits or marks where all of these slits are in the template so you have a couple of options you can hold the template down and make a little pencil mark or a little chalk mark and then you can move the template and cut them or you can try this method if you have some small scissors you can hold the template and just i'm sliding right under the fabric and just making a little snip this is a little bit harder for me that's why i like making marks and then coming back and doing a just a small snip see this one right here it's about an eighth of an inch snip see this one here you don't want to snip beyond where your seam allowance is going to be and these snips these are for marking you don't need snips to make it stitch correctly so if you just want to do pencil or chalk marks the whole way you can do that too it's a matter of personal preference now if you want to save some time mark one of your arcs but stack up three or four i've got four stacked here and then i can snip through all those layers all at once and again the rotating mat is going to help and i'm making the snips again about an eighth of an inch so it won't be beyond my seam allowance now we're going to use our next two templates and we're going to cut some background pieces with these guys so the first step is to cut eight inch squares from each eight inch square we're going to get one of these in the one corner this in the middle and then we're going to get another one of these on the far corner so what we're going to do is line up these two edges on the sides we've already cut and i'm cutting four layers here if you're not comfortable cutting four layers you can cut less and i'm just going to start here go all the way along there you can just go straight off the edge there and i'm going to slide that out of the way and i'm going to cut off these little guys and i think it's easiest to just mark this right now so again if you're going to use a pencil you can just draw in all those lines or if you want to use scissors and make small cuts you can just do those do those snips right now before you even move the template now we can take this template and move it over here line it up with these two cut edges and we can cut this one again i'm going to just slide this part out of the way and even up these little ends and again if you want to just use scissors right now to cut you can just hold the template down and slide right under just a little bit and make a little snip now to cut this middle piece anywhere in there is fine and we'll just go all the way around and you can see now how handy it is to be able to spin this around so i can get the little tip there and just keep cutting so the background is all cut and it's all marked and the last piece we need to cut is the corner squares that's these two accents here so the easiest way to cut these is to first cut two and a half inch squares once these are into squares we're going to take our last template piece and we're going to line up this corner on those two cut edges there then we're just going to have to cut these sides here so let's get this little corner piece off go around this gentle curve that little guy and that little itty bitty corner there and then we're going to mark it again so i've got a silver pencil here that works pretty well and then i'm going to snip through there little snip there little snip there now we've got everything we need to start sewing the two pieces we're going to start with one of the corners and one of these arcs so this is how they're going to fit together but to sew them front right sides together we've got to flip them like this so you can see the curves are going in opposite directions now first things first this cut edge is going to go along this cut edge and so to figure out where you start we're lo i'm lining up these two edges and see where that little point is in the arc right there that point right there needs to meet the very edge so i've got to slide it up just a little bit farther and now i'm going to stitch a quarter inch which is right where that point is so i'm going to slide this right over to the machine and just take a couple stitches so we're going to keep stitching and we're going to try to have both the raw edges lined up right about where we're stitching that means as we're going this one is going to have to be moved like that and this top piece is going to have to be moved like that now i've got marks and snips right now and that's so that you can see it easier on film so i'm just going to curve that a little take a few more stitches and then i'm just going to keep curving and stitching a little and you can see if these marks line up it makes it really really easy to sew this curve together now here my top mark is it's a little bit above this mark here and that just means i need to pull the top a little as i sew so that my marks will line up so i can see down here where they're coming and i'm going to slide the bottom over slide the top over and you can just keep adjusting as you go it's really very easy i thought this was going to be a lot harder than it is and i'm going to show you a couple of times so that you can see how easy this is i haven't sewn very many of them i've sewn about 10 practice ones so i've kind of gotten the knack of it but it's really a lot easier than i thought it was going to be now when we open this up the seams are going to go toward the background and i'm not really going to finger press it because i don't want to stretch it out of shape but i'm just going to pat it down a little bit but look at that nice curve there so let me show you one more time remember we're lining up these two cut edges and then we're making that little point point right in the middle of the background and then take a couple of stitches now the easiest way to get these curves to work is to hold the top fabric in your right hand and the bottom in your left hand and then as you sew you're going to pull like that so just take a couple of stitches and then again i'm pulling the bottom to the left and the top to the right so that just a little bit of the edges line up and you just sew a few stitches at a time i'm not even lifting the presser foot i'm just stitching and sewing so if it looks like your marks aren't going to line up you can pull the top a little bit or you can pull the bottom a little bit because we are working with curves here and they've got a little bit of give when we get near the end here i'll show you where we're supposed to end up again with the pointy part right in the middle of the background so it's a little hard to see but when you stitch it right like that with the point right in the middle then when you open it up we end up with this being one nice gentle curve once you've got eight of these done then we're ready to move on to the next step which is these pieces here now we're going to put these onto four of these units so let's take the top one here and this is going to fit right here so we're going to put them right sides together and i think i'm going to turn it over so i can see my marks a little better because this batik doesn't really have a right or a wrong side and again we want to line up these two cut edges so if we kind of roll that right to the end there those are going to match up and we're just going to start stitching with our quarter inch seam away from this cut edge again take a couple of stitches and then you're just going to have to curve it just like you did the last time so i'm holding the top with my right hand the bottom with my left hand and i'm just going to gently pull them the top one to the right the bottom one to the left and just feed it all the way down the curve and you just keep matching your little slits a few stitches at a time curving as you go and now that end is going to match the end there when we take this off and open this up now you can see we've got a nice curve there and we've got a nice curve there so let me just show you where these ends meet again this is where i started and when you open it up this should be one long line now mine's not perfect i've got a teeny bit extra of the green there but it's pretty close and then at the end of it where i stitched off the end again you see how those line up there and again when you open it up it should make one long line again mine's not perfect yet but it's pretty close now that we've got those four completed we need to go back to these guys because they need to have something put on each end so that they will be big enough to stitch onto here so we're going to take one of these green pieces and we're going to stitch it on here so that 90 degree corner that's going to be the corner of our block it's this curved side that we need to stitch on here so i've got little slits on both sides here and i'm going to line up this edge here this is where i'm going to sew so there is a little snip gone in the corner there and that's just so that we won't have quite so much bulk when we put our blocks together so i'm lining up the cut edges here and using a quarter inch seam again just take a couple of stitches and curve as you go and i'll show you what it looks like so this piece is curved like that i'm exaggerating and i'm going to press this seam allowance this one you can finger press a little toward the green now we're going to put a purple one at the far end again the 90 degree corner goes over here and this is going to go right sides together here and i think just to show you what i'm doing i'm going to draw on this if i do a quarter inch seam that's where i'm stitching and on this end i'm not going to draw the whole thing that's where i'm stitching so lining up these edges and having that line on the edge of this piece that's where you start sewing we've got a little corner of this purple if i can lift it up there that's going over this corner and that's okay it just helps if you have an idea of what am i trying to sew here what am i trying to match up and now we're just curving it around here and my white mark where i drew the chalk there should be on the edge of this background when i come to the end and that way when this is done this should make one long line now mine isn't perfect i've got a little bit extra green here but this side's just perfect and that's what we're heading for one long curve now once you've got those four done you may want to take these and iron them i tried ironing right now and i tried waiting and ironing at the end and i prefer to weight an iron at the end but you may want to iron you can do it either way just be careful when you iron that you don't distort your block you want to keep this square i notice mine tends to want to curve in right here and that's just because you've got curves here so you just want to be careful to keep it flat and don't stretch anything and distort it as you iron now we can take one of each of these and we're going to stitch this last seam so right sides together here and remember this side is going to line up with this side so we'll put those edges even and then we'll move this up right to where we're going to start which is a quarter inch in from this edge which is right there that's where those two pieces are meeting right there so i'm going to stitch a couple stitches and then pause and keep turning and matching everything up and again i did find it easiest to hold the top and my right hand the bottom in my left hand and just keep curving as you go and when you find those little snips line those up as best you can sew all the way down the edge here at some point it feels like you just need to pull that over and fold it a little and that's okay that way you can see what you're doing a little bit better it helps so much to have those marks or snips now let's see how close we were to getting everything matched up oh this one's pretty good i've got it almost perfect right there let's go down to this end this one isn't as good it should be coming in at the same spot there i don't think i'm going to take it out and restitch because i'm not really that picky but you can if you really don't like that match there you could take that out and ease it into place a little better now this is where that intersection is that i did not have lined up very well you can peel it back here and make sure that those seams where they crisscross a quarter inch away are lined up and that will help you make that look better than my first one did there i just notice i get better as i go so check each one as you do it see how closely everything is lined up and then you can make little adjustments now that we've got four of these blocks done we are ready to put our big block together so here is what it's going to look like all we have to do is sew straight seams now so i'm going to put that on top of there and that on top of there bring this over line it up and this just seems so easy after sewing all those curves and i'm going to bring these two guys over now i'm going to press this seam allowance to the right and you can finger press it and this seam allowance to the left and now we can sew this last seam here and it's pretty thick where all these seams come together right here but if you just go slow and careful you can get everything matched up and i'm gonna finger press to one side you may find that you want to press this seam open especially if you've got thicker fabrics i've got batiks and they do finger press pretty easily but you could press this seam open if you like now we're ready to iron now to iron this you'll notice it's not very flat and that's because it's really almost impossible to sew these without stretching them a little bit so you do have to be really careful when you iron because we don't want to make it worse we want it to get flatter so i'm going to pat it flat and i'm going to start on these sections here i'm not going to use steam i'm just going to flatten these four areas out and then i'm just going to try to coax this back so it's squarish you can see this is curving down a little so i'm just gonna flatten it out a little with the iron dry iron right now because we don't want to use steam until we've got it pretty flat and square and it does want to get back to the shape it ought to be but sometimes you've got to just help it along just a little bit once you get it looking flat and square then you can add some steam so there's the finished block so i'm going to go ahead and make all 12 and then i'll show you what it looks like i've got these all done so let's get them laid out and then we can start to see how the rings intertwine and how these four accents come together here so you see when you put four together like that now we've got another ring showing so every time you put another block out you get all these intertwined rings there this is a quilt that looks much better when you have multiple blocks all laid out so it's going to be really easy to get these blocks together because we only have to match here and here very easy i'm going to put the top together then i'm going to put a little border on out of the background fabric and then a printed border on then i can get it onto this quilting machine the double wedding ring has the borders on it and it's on the machine here and now we need to pick a thread color i think i'm going to stick with something white because i don't really want the quilting to show much in these light areas obviously we could go with this which is the same color background but it's going to show quite a bit in those dark areas this is kind of a dark aqua that looks really good it blends into the light areas and even in the darkest areas it doesn't show much i've got one that's slightly lighter it'll probably show more on those dark parts i've got some light blue again this would work great this will blend in won't show much on the patchwork i think i'm going to like this green the best for the quilting i'm going to use a pattern called bubble because it's got these nice circle designs and i think that will look good with the double wedding ring pattern so i've got the whole quilt done i just could not be happier with how it turned out and how much fun it was to make i was honestly a little bit anxious about sewing the curves but it was much easier than i thought it was going to be now the double wedding ring the way we made it you couldn't see the double you couldn't see the rings all intertwined until we have it all done now now you can't even see where one block starts and where one block ends but this is one block right here with that circle and those extra things it's when you put them all together that you see everything meshed together so it turned out 57 by 73 inches after i added the borders and if you want to have a curved edge on your quilt and you don't want borders you can simply leave off these outside corner pieces here and then you can still make the curved edge you can see the quilting here with those nice big and small circles all over and i really like the way it doesn't fight with the pattern at all now for binding i used a fabric that's very similar to the border and then the backing it's the same print as the border but it's a darker color and i use that lighter thread so you can really see the quilting on there now a word about these accent fabrics here my accents are similar in colors to what i've got in my arcs you certainly could do colors that were a little bit different and then it might pop a little more but i really like the way this repeats throughout the whole pattern it gives it a nice balance now one thing i noticed when i was stitching this together is that it would be a perfect project to use up scraps on because the pieces are so little and because you're cutting from a template after they're stitched together scraps would be just perfect but remember if you want to use any of the pre-cuts i will have some size guidelines right below the video in the link and it'll tell you how many you need of each different size thanks so much for watching our tutorial today on how to make the double wedding ring quilt we hope you enjoyed it if you have questions leave them in the comments below and i'll be sure to answer now we're going to have a giveaway this is called tea time in bali we did a tutorial on how to make this it just comes from one jelly roll and a couple of borders but today you can win this quilt so it's very easy to enter our giveaways just click the link below the video that says giveaway and you put in your name and your email address and remember we can send the quilt to anywhere in the world so good luck now if you like our tutorials and you want to support us the best thing you can do is subscribe to our youtube channel that would really help us out happy quilting

Channel: Jordan Fabrics

Views: 591,662

Rating: 4.9423327 out of 5

Keywords: Quilt, quilting, quilts, 12 block, log cabin, fabric, fabrics, pre cuts, table runner, table runners, sew, sewing, log cabin 12 blocks, Jordan Fabrics, Jordan's, jordan, floating point, Floating Point, Donna Jordan, Matt Jordan, Patterns, 4k, Batik Bali Batik, bali batik' sister's choice, tutorial, let's make, vlog, quilt shop, quilt store, dooble, double, weding, wedding, rin, ring, rig, howto, make, marriage, mariage, maridge, married, maried, gift, gifts, love, infinite, curve, cirved, curves, circle, circles

Id: CtzclxUZDu8

Length: 35min 21sec (2121 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 23 2020