Double glazing old sash windows.

so what do we got here then well as you can see it's a wooden window frame divided up into three sections each section has a single pane of glass what i'm going to do in this video is show you how to convert it to a double glazed unit but retain its original looking features you can apply this to modern day windows or you can apply it to these windows here which were made in 1929 first thing to do obviously is to remove all the hardware once all the hardware is removed put it into a steel box or a plastic box and put it to a safe place next thing we're going to do is to remove the beading now as this window was built in the 80s it's got wooden beads if it was a lot older chances are it would have putty now if the putt is very hard you're going to have a bit of a difficulty but as you can see these are coming out quite quickly don't worry about damaging the actual frame itself using the chisel like this because it's going to be rebated it's very important now to remove the nails if you're restoring a whole house the chances are that all the windows were glazed by the same person and therefore he'll put the nails into the same place on each window so it's very easy to know exactly where they are try not to throw the glass away if it was a house built in the 1920s there's a good chance that the glazing is unique and therefore it will be desired by somebody what i tend to do is donate my glass to a glazing company who pick it up from the house it's better than throwing it away it's always best to recycle the putty can be easily softened using a hot air gun again if this was a hard putty then i'd probably use a multi-tool and slide it in behind the glass in order to extract it there we go next thing to do is to remove all the paint from the outside of the frame [Applause] so here we have the wooden window frame that's now ready to be measured up to receive its double glazed unit if you look at a upvc window you can see that the separator bars are very close to the outside edge of the plastic so what we don't want to do is on the right measure to where the glass sat we want to measure to the inside of the wooden frame which you can see on the left hand side once we've done that then you can construct a drawing which will show the actual dimensions the inside dimensions of each frame but this drawing isn't finished yet because it's not got the correct dimensions on there you need to work out what the widths are of the separator bars in this case it is 12 millimeters and then what you need to do is to add those 12 millimeters to your overall dimensions so the width will be increased by 24 as will the height but the dimension to the muntins will be 12 millimeters your finished drawing will look like this and i suggest this is what you take to your laser and you should end up with something that looks exactly like this and this is what will make your window frame look exactly like it was made originally using double glazed units and those inside dimensions that you took in the first place are the dimensions that you see here so put the two together and this is what you get well that looks pretty good to me so just to run through various thicknesses of double glazed units and what they mean i've used 14mm in the past on older frames it's lighter less wood to remove and the lead sash weights that you have to add are a lot thinner disadvantages are it's just a vacuum in between two panes of glass if you use a thicker pane of glass you can in some cases fill them with inert gas so they are more efficient but they are heavier and you've got more wood to remove so once that's all done just give this a quick sand down and take it right back to its bare wood there's a few fishes and cracks that need filling but there's no rotting wood so i'm not too worried about this frame at all next thing to do is to prepare the frame for routing these bits of wood will put through my thicknesser to make sure they are exactly the same thickness as the actual frame itself once the pieces of wood have been secured now you can align the glass to the frame make sure that the inside of the separator bars are aligned with the inside of the wooden frame now when you mark out for routing make sure you add two millimeters to the left and right hand side of the frame and two millimeters to the top but you must add four millimeters to the bottom of the frame this will be explained later you need these extra millimeters to allow the glass to expand and contract once it's all been marked out you can check to make sure that the beads align correctly i'm very happy with this now we just want to make sure that the router runs nice and smooth over these bits of wood there's no steps or jumps looks good to me now zero your router using the three basic steps and now we can start this bit can be done freehand what we want to do here is to reduce the depth of the separator bars down to the step that you can see in the frame in the background [Music] [Music] now we can start rebating the frame at the moment we're only interested in the width and not the depth the glass seems to fit a treat if you're struggling with wood dimensions and thicknesses of glass what you can do is remove the black tape from around the outside of the glazed unit this will give you about an extra millimeter in both directions once the frame has been cut to the correct depth for the glass then you can start concentrating on the beading depending on the thickness of the glass and the thickness of the wood that you've got to play with could determine what shape and size the beading is required this one looks good to me if you cast your mind back to earlier in the video you'll remember that i said that the bottom of the glass needs a four mil gap well the reason is now going to be explained what i'm going to find here is some 2 ml thick spaces that i'm going to cut into four strips and then these will sit at the bottom of the frame and the glass will sit on top of them this is to make sure that any water that gets in there and starts freezing doesn't cause any damage to the glass itself now all the routing is finished we can just start to prepare the frame for painting i like to give it a very good sand and then go over the decorative side of the frame to make sure every piece of paint is removed most of it into my teacup once the beading has been cut and added the whole window looks magnificent it's a shame we have to paint them these are some of the original frames that date back to 1929 the paint i'm using is a three-part paint the first application is an etcher which has to be added twice with a gap of 12 hours in between once it's been lightly sanded down the undercoat can be added then the whole frame is given a very very fine sanding before it's added to the final stage where we can add the glass and put the final top coat on the glass needs to be cleaned thoroughly it's very difficult to give glass a good clean because you can see every imperfection i like to use newspaper to wipe it all off i find it's the best material to use for this job these are the spacers we looked at earlier they're now glued in place to make sure that the glass sits free from the wood i've added a beading of silicon sealant around the inside of the frame and now carefully placing the glass onto the spaces apply some firm pressure and then add some clamps to hold them overnight while the silicone goes off now the glass is in place it's time to add the beading once i've worked out where they all go to make sure that they fit i apply silicon sealant to the underside to make sure that it's nice and secure it also acts as a water barrier and using nails there's a risk of damaging the glass once they're in place and any spew of silicon sealant has been removed the final top coat of white paint can be added it's a shame you can't number them because you could actually work out where they go a lot quicker now just a heads up before you add the external hardware because the wood has been rebated and is a lot narrower be careful that you don't use screws that penetrate all the way through into the glass because the weight of the frame has almost doubled because of the double glazing unit i'm adding some glue just to make sure that it's held in place correctly if you cast your mind back to the very start of the video this is what the frame looked like and this is the final painted one now it looks exactly the same which is a good thing basically but when you look closer people will think that it's actually made up of three separate double glazed units once the wood is removed from the hole the glass can go back in and that's what it looks like this is from the outside the one on the right is obviously the one that we've just worked on the other two are yet to be done but will end up looking exactly the same don't worry about the window frames painted in green they're going to be painted this summer the front of the house was all reworked every single window you see there has been double glazed it's the only house in the street that retains its original windows therefore it looks quite unique and once the decorators have come and painted the rendering and the frames this house is going to look absolutely brand new thanks for watching like and subscribe and share see you soon

Channel: Warwickshire Workshop

Views: 53,813

Keywords: #renovation, #restoration, #warwickshireworkshop, #doubleglazing, #woodenwindows, #woodenwindowframes, #festool, #festoolrouter, #festoolof1400, #diy, #oldhouse, #upgrade, #woodworkingtools, #sashwindows, Reddiseals

Id: wLbKZePF0nc

Length: 14min 50sec (890 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 10 2021