Don't buy a JOINTER until you watch this video!

oh boy that piece of maple looks like it came from Home Depot I didn't want to build this jig I had to that wide rust on Lumber has to be flattened and I don't have a large Joiner that and Maggie said she doesn't love me anymore I never said that yes you did I just said you couldn't buy a nine thousand dollar Joiner it's the same thing Maggie now joiners are great tools but they have a couple of drawbacks first they can take up a lot of space and when you're doing large projects depending on the size of the Joiner and how much material is removed they can create a lot of wood chips that Philip does collection very quickly and like most woodworking tools the bigger you go the more expensive they get what if there was a way to get around these drawbacks with another tool that is already found in many woodworking shops and one that takes up much less space doesn't fill up the dust collection anywhere near as fast and costs two to three times less than a joiner with the same capacity I'm talking about the bandsaw it's so much more capable than just cutting curvy parts and making thick Lumber thinner not there's anything wrong with curvy parts the size of the bandsaw the type of Blade being used and how the bandsaw is tuned I'll play important roles in its functioning capabilities this jig that I've made for my 15-inch Harvey bandsaw has nearly if not entirely replace the need for a jointer in our shop and at first glance it might look a little bit intimidating but if you stick with me I'll show you in detail how I made it and share some of the information about the blades we use and how we tune our saw to get Optimum performance that'll really help you level up your bandsaw kung fu oh [Music] it's been a couple days since that last section of the video was recorded and we've had some time to play with this and we've changed a couple of things mostly about the clamp system we've shortened them so we can't use those as a reference point when we're putting our material in and I'll explain that later on in the video after we watch the build portion of this video but before we get into that build portion there's one thing I want to say and make very clear I'm not poo pooing joiners joiners are amazing tools and they're absolutely necessary for people that use them all the time the fact of the matter is we would probably only use a jointer two or maybe three times a year because most of the material we use is S4s we just don't have the need to mill roughs on material very often that said joiners can also take really light skin passes with this system you've got to take an eighth inch of material otherwise that Blade's just going to skip along the outside of the material you're trying to cut but if you do want to build a system like this whether you're using it for co-planing sides or just some resawing in a very sturdy easy way to hold on to and move the material through I'm going to show you how we built it and it starts with this base it's 80 inches long 11 inches tall and 7 inches deep that wasn't a plan size it's just the material we had laying around our shop but the real magic of this jig is a clamp system so let's jump into it the main body of the clamp system is three and three quarter inches wide and 11 inches tall it serves to hold the clamp system and helps keep the base plate and sides Square to each other after cutting the clam body to its width I cut a shallow dado in the clamp body three quarter inches in from the face making a handful of passes moving the table saw fence each time made short work of creating this shallow dado inside the dado there needs to be a Groove for a three inch long 5 16 Carriage bolt that holds the clamp to the clamp body to cut the through a Groove I start by drilling two 5 16 holes in the center of the dado about an inch and a half from each end over at the router table after setting up both start and stop positions on my router fence I take a few light Cuts raising the router bit slightly each time to connect the drilled holes this makes for a smooth Groove that the square Tang of the carriage bolt will slide up and down easily the runner is cut into three and three quarter inch piece of plywood about 15 inches long running it through the table saw on its side with the blade raised to three quarter of an inch for the first pass removing just shy of a blades with the material then turning it over repeating the process with a blade raised enough to leave the thickness of the Dado sneaking up on the cut taking light passes and checking the fit each time will help achieve the best fit possible over at the miter saw I cut each carriage to two and a half inches long and then drill a 5 16 hole an inch and quarter down from the top through the plywood in the center of the runner for the clamps I used Hickory but any hardwood would work and after planing the Hickory to a one inch thickness I cut out a quick template to use for laying out the parts on the Hickory each clamp needs a 5 16 hole drilled through it for the pivot system now I'm going to do that on my drill press before I go over and cut out the parts on the bandsaw [Music] after the clamps are cut out I need to drill and tap a hole in the tail of the clamp where a 5 16 hex bolt will go through and this will create the clamping pressure we need to hold our material into the device to make the clamps work a stop block needs to be added to the clamp carriage for the bolts to push against scrap Hickory left from cutting the clamps was perfect for this I glued the blocks to the back of the Glide after the glue sets a couple of pre-drilled countersunk screws will ensure that the block can handle any pressures it'll have to deal with while I was building the clamps Maggie added a runner to the body of the entire system this Runner will ride in the miter track ensuring that it stays nice and true throughout the cut with that done and the clamps finished we started adding the clamp bodies to the L frame to do this we just added a little bit of glue pre-drilled some screw positions and then screwed them into place the screws pulled everything into square now to make sure the material won't slide around in the system Maggie added some anti-clang cork rubber to the base and then to the face of the clamps so we just went through a whole bunch of information so let me break it down for you this is the main body of the clamp this is the carriage system that's got the runner in it now that needs to slide up and down that Groove so when we put clamping pressure down on this Pivot Point this just doesn't slide back and forth that's what captures it and locks it in place the carriage bolt goes through the back here and the Tang slides up and down in that Groove so the bolt doesn't turn when we tighten it down the clamp itself goes in place right here add a washer and then we added my favorite knobs the bow knobs these knobs are super well made the best you're going to find and they're crazy fast to use that locks the whole thing into position so now when I have a piece of material in here and I tighten this 5 16 hex nut down it is going to squish the clamp down creating that clamping pressure I need to hold the material in place to position my material in The Jig I use the face as a reference point making sure I'm proud of that and I can move my clamp into position and on the top I use this little spacer block to make sure that I'm positioned well at the top and then just tighten my clamp down foreign now that locks everything into place I'll go down to the back side of it and then I'll do the center clamps as well just to make sure I have a nice secure hold throughout the whole thing [Applause] [Music] once we have one side nice and smooth you could obviously take this out and re-saw traditionally but I like to leave it in the jig and I'll flip it over in The Jig then I use some spacing blocks just back here push it up nice and tight against there and that gives me a reference point and then I can lock it back down in place [Music] [Applause] foreign [Music] thank you this is really where the advantage is in this jig you see how thin that was right here how thick it gets towards the middle and then it thins out again we took a we took a bunch of cup bow and twist out of that board in just two passes without having to do a lot of work on a joiner this setup is making short work of flattening the maple we need for our next project well there's a couple things to keep in mind keeping a consistent feed rate as you're pushing the material through the blade is pretty important if you push too hard or change speeds it can cause minor deflections in the blade and you would see that when you're planing the material also having the bandsaw and the blade tune properly are very important the bandsaw we're using is the Harvey 15-inch three horsepower band saw it is a beefy machine with well-balanced wheels and a great motor you could definitely do this on a smaller bandsaw you just wouldn't have the resock capacity that this one does just as important as the bandsaw is the blades that we're using for resign my favorites are the 5 8 3 TPI Greenwood resaw blades from Carter tools the Harvey band side and Carter tools Greenwood blades are a powerful combination but none of that would matter if this wasn't set up and tuned properly I learned the tuna bandsaw from the bandsaw Master himself Alex Snodgrass so what I'm going to do is link his video on how to tune a bandsaw down in the description box below when you go check that video out make sure you subscribe your bandsaw will thank you after we cut the material we take it over to our planer that leaves us with two sides that are coplanar but we still need a straight edge to reference off of so I built this large straightening jig for longer boards and for the shorter boards I used my table saw straight edge rip jet honestly now that I think about it I'm really glad that I built this system it saved me a bunch of money and space in my shop and now my dust collection can breathe easy I guess sometimes even though Maggie is super mean to me everything works out in the end as always thank you so much for watching the video I hope you enjoyed it and maybe you learned something from it if you want to try the Greenwood resaw blades there's a discount code in the description box below along with some other links this video is a no way sponsored nobody's paid me the folks over at Greenwood were just kind enough to give me that code to give to you if you wanted to try them this system has worked out perfect for the two or three times that we're going to need to resaw you know wider material The Jig we built will do up to about 12 inches in material and if I need bigger than that well I'm gonna have to figure something else out if you're not subscribed but you think we've earned your subscription today go ahead and hit that subscribe button and hit the Bell notification next to it so you get notified when we put up new content until next time we'll see you in the next video

Channel: izzy swan

Views: 83,289

Keywords: How to, diy, tablesaw, table saw, tools, projects, woodworking, shop projects, jigs, band saw, Izzy swan, bandsaw projects, bandsaw jigs, resawing, bandsaw, bandsaw tuning, woodworking tools, woodworking tips, woodworking tips and tricks, diy woodworking, woodworking projects

Id: vfkwjKsseOw

Length: 10min 33sec (633 seconds)

Published: Thu Jul 20 2023