I sold my SawStop for a slider // Hammer K3 Winner Assembly

I sold my three horsepower saw stop and replaced it with the hammer K3 winner now before I get a bunch of people that started asking what was wrong with the sawstop the short answer is there's absolutely nothing wrong with it it was a fantastic saw this decision is based solely off the fact that I wanted to try a traditional sliding table saw and see how I could incorporate that into my garage woodworking shop and the purpose of this video is to demonstrate the delivery the uncrating and the basic assembly of the K3 winner this video will not show how to calibrate and dial in the saw as that's going to be saved for a future video so let's get into the delivery this was definitely the largest palette that I've ever received in my home and honestly I kind of think I lucked out on this one and had this been much larger I'm not sure that I would have been able to fit this palette through the door as you can see in the footage of the delivery I had to shift some wood around just to get it through the opening but what I will say is that if you're going to be bringing this in through a two-car garage door then you're not going to have any issues at all so after a little bit of finagling between myself and the wonderful delivery driver that I had we were able to get to the palette in the desired location and it was time to go ahead and start breaking everything down and a word of advice here if you plan to remove the saw using a pallet jack then make sure that you leave at least the length of the palette free to whatever side you're going to be downloading it from this will give you enough space to build a ramp to remove it now like every tool that I have received from Felder over the past few years they're always packaged extremely well and this crate is very very rigid I like to remove all the screws first to help with the breakdown process now the frame is also nailed so removing the screws will actually not make it collapse as I break it down I just place the two by fours off to the side because I will actually be using some of this for the ramp once I get all the framing removed I'm then able to move on to getting the plastic wrap off the Saw around the actual table saw and the additional parts and accessories now I first removed all the loose items found within the box and move them over to my assembly table so they would all be easily visible during assembly there will be multiple items needed for assembly attached to the pallet and they attach these with screws so they don't move around during transport next I wanted to make sure that I removed all this excess plastic that you see on the side that I'll be removing the saw from this is important because I didn't want anything in the way of the pallet jack now to build the ramp I used various scraps from the crate and in my shop and I'll let you watch How I constructed mine while I share a few tips first is to try to get the ramp as close to flush at the top as possible I recommend having supports at various Heights underneath just to prevent any major bowing you can always add to as needed and then the other thing is the longer the ramp that you can build just honestly the easier it's going to be to get this off of the crate in the long run now I used a standard pallet jack to remove this from the palette the way I look at it there are two ways that I can share to remove the saw the first way is a bolt can actually be added to the existing hole for the mobile base and what that does is it'll actually allow you to have a fork underneath the saw and then a fork that's being supported by that bolt so it basically balances the weight the other option is what I am doing now this was a little more tricky because I did have to find a good balance point but once I did it was no problem I made sure not to lift the saw more than I needed and just moved very slowly and I was able to remove the saw with little effort and no damage all by myself after the saw was off the pallets I was able to break down the remainder of the pallet and all the other materials and get them out of the shop to make space I used the same pallet jack to just move the saw tube roughly where it was going to be after I got done assembling everything and from there I just started removing any of the packing grease that was left over from transport and to do this all I used was WD-40 and a rag now the slider is in a locked position during transport with these two black Clips well I needed to remove these two locks for the sliding table so I'd be able to access additional parts that are actually located inside of the saw itself now I finally got started on the Assembly of the support tables for the table saw now I recommend laying out all of the hardware that will be needed for this task like you see here it will be very very beneficial in the assembly process the first piece is to install were the two support arms that provide support to the full length table these are secured by pre-cut slots on the bottom and then a nut and bolt at the top from there I was able to add the support arm extension that will support the smaller support table from there I began installing the posts that the support table will actually rest on for this I left about three inches total above the supports this just helps speed up the adjustments that will be needed later to level everything once the height was correct I then added a washer and a nut to the bottom I am not tightening any of this Hardware down all the way at this point and there are a total of six of these posts and it will look like this I also added the provided felt pads to the top of each one of these posts now these are provided to prevent any kind of damage that could be caused from metal on metal contact between the post and the support table I then added the bolts that will be used to adjust the level of the support tables so I set the washers on these to be roughly one inch above the supports and again that's just to make the leveling process a little bit faster as with the support posts there are a total of six of these adjustable posts as you can see on the saw here the first table to be attached is the larger full length support table if the posts are set to the rough height that I outlined before then the table should end up being pretty close to where you need it you just have to make sure that the bolts are lined up with the holes and that everything is laying flat now this is where I started the leveling of the table that is what the black bolts are for I just worked my way through each of the bolts while periodically checking to make sure that everything was flat and coplanar I just used a standard straight edge in various locations and as I was happy with the results I would tighten the bolts down to lock everything in place next I added the second support table and I followed the exact same steps that I just showed however there is one difference and that is that the smaller table doesn't only attach to the support rails but it also attaches to the other support table and this will just help keep the table very rigid with the support tables on I then moved on to the fence assembly I removed the brackets added for shipping as you can see here then I removed the nuts and the washers that would be used to mount to the support tables there are a total of four posts on the fence setup that I have on this saw two in the cast iron and two in the support tables once the fence is in place but not fully tightened down I can actually check to see if the bar is parallel to the surface now this is important because the ability for the fence to move freely left and right is dependent on this step for this step I took a measurement at each end and made small adjustments to the bar until I was able to get matching measurements on the two ends after I was comfortable with the placement I then could tighten everything down and lock it in place the fence is a two-piece assembly that consists of the head and the aluminum Extrusion for the fence itself the head unit just slides right onto the bar the aluminum Extrusion simply slides onto the head and locks down with a single lever sliding the fence left and right will uncover any further adjustments that may need to be made next I moved on to installing the scale and this just slides onto these three nuts into the channel on the back side of the aluminum Extrusion I did place the beginning of the scale one millimeter away from the sliding table after it was in the desired location I could simply tighten down the different screws I then moved on to the Outrigger assembly I pulled out the Outrigger arm and then slid the Outrigger support into it next I added the provided nut and bolt which actually acts as a stop so the arm isn't able to just slide out of the Outrigger arm then on the front side I added this plastic protection cap next I could assemble the Outrigger table this assembly only requires the installation of two knobs conical washers and rectangular nuts that will slide into the sliding table once installed the Outrigger is simply placed on the support post and then slid into the sliding table I was able to place the slider wherever I wanted and lock it down using the two installed knobs and lastly I did check to make sure that the sliding table moved freely and was not binding anywhere now that the Outrigger was on I could actually attach the fence assembly this assembly consists of three parts a aluminum Extrusion and two mounting brackets the brackets slide in on the back side of the Extrusion the smaller of the two goes on the inside closest to the blade and uses a locating pin for placement on the Outrigger the larger bracket slides into the Outrigger table scale and will also use an indexing pin for various angles once in place I can raise this small stop which is actually used for quick 90 degree reference this is also how you would go about adjusting when you calibrate to make sure everything is dialed in the Crosscut fence also comes with a large flag stop as well and simply slides in from the end next is the large miter gauge that can be used independently from the larger Outrigger cross cut fence and this is comprised of three pieces as well being the miter gauge the aluminum Extrusion and another flag stop and one last accessory this handle mounts to the slider and it can actually be used to assist with moving the slider backwards after making a cut and finally the blade now this saw is a little bit different from traditional cabinet saws when it comes to the blade this loosens via a hex bolt and as you can see here they're actually two locating pins and the blade just slides directly over them and the hardware is reinstalled the last thing to do is to plug this thing in and see if the Saw Works and luckily in this case it does hopefully you enjoyed the install process on the hammer K3 winner and I look forward to seeing how this is going to change the way that I work moving forward

Channel: Bent's Woodworking & More

Views: 153,294

Keywords: woodworking, woodworking tips, woodworking tips and tricks, how to, woodworking how to, woodworking channel, instruction, Jason bent, bents woodworking, woodworking tools, beginner woodworking, woodworking for beginners

Id: nX6I1ODeEwM

Length: 12min 10sec (730 seconds)

Published: Mon Jul 24 2023