Don’t Modify Your Turbo Diesel Engine Before Watching This Video. One Mod That Can Save Your Engine!

welcome back to legit streetcars my name is Alex and in today's video I'm gonna do what I like to call some preventative engine blowing up work on my 2005 III 20 CDI and in this case this entails installing a really cool digital gauge a sensor in the engine and some welding and if you guys are sitting at home or at work right now thinking oh cool we're gonna learn welding on Alex's Channel this is gonna be great if that's what you're thinking right now I am so so sorry because I really don't know how to weld but I'm gonna give it a shot okay so yesterday I installed a stage to race IQ tuned to the CDI so stock boost pressure is 17 psi stage one is 20 psi in the stage two tuned increases this the 23 psi and coupled with our larger turbocharger and catless downpipe the CDI is now fixin to make a lot more power now this tune also increases the fuel being delivered to the engine and diesels love more fuel except not too much if you inject too much fuel things can get hot start to melt and blow up your engine more on that in a minute alright so today we are installing an AE M exhaust gas temperature probe in our exhaust manifold somewhere in this area here and we're installing the AEM digital gauge now this is gonna go in a factory - vent so it's gonna look really cool really sleek and I'm gonna show you guys a 211 eClass hack that you may not have known about so an exhaust gas temperature probe or EGT probe does exactly what it says it does it senses the temperature of the exhaust and in this case we're installing it right into the exhaust manifold right before the turbo so ur gonna know the temperature of the exhaust coming right out of the cylinder head of the engine and this is one of the most important things to know when tuning a diesel engine and I'll get into that more in a minute but first we have to remove the turbocharger and I just put this thing on a couple weeks ago but we have to drill a hole right here to install this bung and that's where the welding comes into play so we don't want to drill a hole into the manifold and have a bunch of metal go right into our turbo otherwise it will basically destroy it so we got to take this off luckily it's not that hard so let's get to work with the air intake system and the heat shield removed your first step is to remove the oil feed line start by removing the 13 millimeter banjo bolt and the turbo then the e10 bolt that holds the pipe into the engine block grab some fancy little pliers like these and pull it straight out this is the o-ring that should be replaced before reinstalling the two your next move is to remove the 13 millimeter bolt for the down pipe clamp and then move underneath the car to loosen up the down pipe remove the two 12 millimeter nuts at the transmission exhaust bracket and then the 12 millimeter nut at the lower down pipe bracket at this point the exhaust is loose so you can get back up on top and pull it back and out of the way now this part is hard to see so you just have to trust me here but basically there are two e10 bolts that hold the intake pipe to the turbo outlet you loosen one and remove the other to disconnect the pipe from the turbo at this point you're feeling really good because you only have three 13 millimeter bolts that hold the turbo to the flange you use a closed end of a shorter 13 millimeter wrench and get to it after removing all three bolts you think you're about to pull the turbo out but it doesn't budge then you realize there's one more 13 millimeter bolt at the bottom that connects the turbo housing to a bracket take that out and you're home free lift the turbo out and then like a child spin the compressor wheel because who doesn't like shiny things that spin really fast all right with the turbo out of the way we got a ton of room here and something that is very important when you're putting an exhaust gas temperature sensor in your exhaust manifold is clearance so in this case I had the airbox and the heat shield on and I marked this spot right here that shouldn't get in the way of anything that we can't bend slightly so this sensor you can actually bend a little bit here and we have a heat shield that if we need to will Bend as well so I marked our spot right here that is where we're gonna drill we want to protect the intake tube from the intercooler and the down pipe from getting metal shavings as well so we're going to use a surveillance warning sign and a microfiber towel it should catch all of our metal shavings also if you guys are replacing or installing a new turbocharger I'll list all the part numbers for all the seals and gaskets that you will need you'll need a few this one is for the flange right here then you got your seals right here for the main feed tube and then a couple of seals here for this guy right here which you don't necessarily need to take off the turbo completely if you're just taking the turbo on and off but I'll list this all down below in the description box to make life a lot easier now cross your fingers we are about to go drill into my exhaust manifold before you drill into metal it's always best to use a center punch and a hammer to mark where you want to drill this makes it easy to Center your drill bit so it doesn't wander off on you I start with a smaller drill bit for a pilot hole then move on to a larger drill bit and then finish up with a 1/2 inch drill bit as specified in the AEM instructions drilling into a cast iron manifold isn't difficult and this should only take you a couple minutes so needless to say you can't skip this step of taking the turbo off a lot of this stuff right here all of this metal would have ended up in the turbine wheel and pretty much destroyed the turbo so we got a vacuum this up [Music] take our microfiber out nothing gets in it anything official oh there we go alright wait okay just kidding we have to put the surveillance warning sign back up because we are gonna be welding right here and we don't want to get any weld splatter all over the place so speaking of welding we have to clean up our area so we're just gonna use a little Whizzer wheel alright just like that our area is clean for welding we can test fit our bung I drilled this out a half-inch according to the AEM instructions so you want to get this area very clean so your weld sticks to the manifold it's not gonna weld very well to rust so since I'm a professional welder that that's why I know that okay before we get to welding and before you guys get to commenting down below on how horrible my welds look let me explain why I have two welders there are two welders on this cart this is a TIG welder and there's a MIG welder down below so basically about three years ago I decided I wanted to learn how to TIG weld I wanted to weld aluminum so I went on Amazon and I bought this it's an alpha TIG 200 X it had awesome reviews and I think this was only like 850 bucks shortly thereafter we had another kid and then I started this YouTube channel and needless to say with my full-time job this has not allotted any time for me to learn how to use this machine so I've turned it on I've tried to weld some aluminum when I first got it I totally blew through everything I was trying to weld I had no idea what I was doing and then yeah I had no time to learn so I really want to learn how to TIG weld that would look awesome especially what we're doing right now but we are going to be using a MIG welder on the bottom of this cart is a super cheap MIG welder I think this was Amazon or maybe no it's Harbor Freight this is Chicago Electric is the brand of welder that they sell at Harbor Freight at least they did a few years back I do know a couple things we need to ground the area that we're working with we need to clean it and in this case I've added a little bit of foil to the top of the threads of that bung because I know I'm gonna splatter all over the place and I don't want to junk up those threads oh and also I've disconnected both batteries on the E Class because you can't actually short out all nodules by welding on your car without disconnecting the battery so that's all I know let's see what happens wish me luck well this isn't starting off good I wanted to push the bung down a little bit on this side after tacking it and I dropped it so now it is somewhere on the belly pain not good all right let's try this again our ground down here not that as close to where you're working as possible I do know that [Music] oh come on there we go oh this thing's not coming out alright third time's a charm let's do this the bung in there stay there [Music] guys we're having serious welder problems check this out oh no it's working this thing doesn't come out all the time I think I'm gonna try turning up the wire speed hey the foil doesn't really do much basically just kind of burns away immediately but I'm gonna keep on cleaning the area so our weld hopefully looks decent [Music] well guys the bung is installed the sensor fits in there really nicely everything's good to go except this looks really really bad to say the least look at all that splatter now I have not used this machine for like three or four years I've had it for like eight years and I've used it maybe twice on some exhaust piping and it never looked this bad but I was having some grounding issues so I kind of cleaned up this area a little bit where the ground clamp was going but then the wire feed kept on not acting up it wasn't coming out half the time but this is mainly because I really just don't know how to weld but pretty bad guys this looks pretty bad but luckily this is not structural at all it's going to seal just fine and I went around a couple times to make sure we're not gonna have any exhaust leaks if we shine our light in the bottom you don't see any light coming through so I think we are good to go here and I'm going to take a carbide bit to this and see if I can salvage my weld job and make this look sort of acceptable you know what most of those dingleberries cleaned right off they came off with just a flat blade screwdriver so I guess this isn't all that bad something else guys I wanted to show you was you can slightly bend this sensor from this point upwards you can bend that a little bit depending on what you have to clear so we have a heat shield in the airbox or anything like that I already test fitted it and it fits perfectly now with just a slight little bend so the last thing we got to do is protect our weld and make it look like this never really happened look at that professional welding at its finest okay now that the really scary part at least for me is over with let's talk about eg T's and why they're so important on diesel engines so if you guys are used to working on gasoline engines then you've probably heard of air to fuel ratio this is what's used to tune a gasoline engine although some really high-performance gasoline engines will use an EGT probe sometimes in each Runner of the exhaust manifold to monitor temperatures from each cylinder this is we're talking high horsepower race car type stuff so with diesels though once you start getting into really any modifications especially with fuel you want to get an exhaust gas temperature in your car you want to log this preferably on tuned off of it as well so let's talk a little bit about the basics of a diesel so you guys can better understand kind of get you thinking about why this is so different than a gasoline engine what I have here is the intake manifold off of the same engine that's in at my CDI the OM 648 this was given to me by a really really awesome subscriber who had an extra one he cleaned it up for me and sent it out that way when I delete the swirl flaps I won't have any downtime on my car I can do it to this manifold and then just simply swap them out so what I wanted to show you here on this intake manifold is this right here if you guys are thinking that this is where the throttle body goes you'd be incorrect diesel engines do not have a throttle blade so basically you can think of them as being at wide open throttle at all times when you hit the accelerator pedal in your diesel equipped vehicle you are simply just injecting more fuel into the engine whether it be electronically or mechanically so a little side note here these are the swirl flaps that I spoke about in a past video and these are kind of like for emissions supposedly they help with low-end torque but a lot of guys delete these because they just cause a lot of issues but you can see these are almost fully open they're kind of hard to move but you can just imagine that this is still a massive restriction in the intake manifold so I've already eliminated the functionality of the motor that controls these so my next step is to simply remove them from the intake and then bolt this back up and I'm not sure if we'll see a big bump in power but it definitely can't hurt to eliminate all this complexity so because a diesel is always at wide open throttle it inherently runs leaner than a gasoline engine and if you don't give it more fuel you simply make less power so when you start messing with your tune and increasing the rail pressure or installing larger injectors you will make more power on a diesel engine but with more power comes more cylinder pressure with more cylinder pressure comes more heat and heat can do damage to things like pistons and valves now with gasoline engines if you run a richer air fuel ratio you start to lose power and you can actually cool the cylinder off because the fuel absorbs a lot of the heat with the diesel it's basically the complete opposite the more fuel you give it the more power it will make up until a certain point basically a melting point this was also where you see big diesel trucks blowing out bellows of black smoke or rolling coal this is because they're running a really really rich mixture and that could be dangerous as well but you can almost guarantee that all of those guys are running an egt gauge in their car so it's really easy to get carried away with adding more fuel into a diesel engine because you will make more power and a very general rule of thumb here on eg T's when you're monitoring them in your vehicle is when you get to about a thousand degrees Fahrenheit that's when you need to start to back off a little bit some guys with big trucks will run 1,200 maybe even 1,400 degrees Fahrenheit but this all depends on the tune so in this case with the CDI at least until I get a little bit more familiar with this setup and my tuner has a little bit more time messing around with the data that I sent him from the exhaust gas temperature sensor we're gonna stay below a thousand degrees Fahrenheit and that should be pretty safe so we don't blow up our CDI engine now as far as sensor placement you want to place this in the exhaust manifold some guys will put this in the downpipe so post turbo which isn't really correct a lot of guys do this because they have space constraints and they just physically can't put a sensor in the manifold but that turbo will absorb possibly a couple hundred degrees of temperature so you're not really gonna get a very accurate reading you want to know exactly what's coming out of the cylinder itself now depending on the design of your engine and your intake manifold some guys will put the sensor on the cylinder that runs hottest so on some diesel engines that is the rear most cylinder but from my research it seems like all of these have a pretty equal distribution of air because of the intake runners and where the air enters the intake manifold it's all kind of equal lengths and everything so what I did was I put it right before the actual turbo itself so we kind of get a collection of exhaust gases from every cylinder the turbo is reinstalled and I'm about to put the heat shield in the airbox back on but just take a look at this guys a little bit of work with this right here this carbide bit and some spray paint some high temp exhaust paints and she doesn't look half bad oh and I wanted to practice what I preach here guys I've mentioned to you that any chance you get pop this little cover off and make sure that you don't have any black death so looks like we're uh we're in good shape here wiring up the sensor and the gauge could not be any easier so basically they give you a very long harness it just snaps right into our EGT probe right here I'm gonna run it kind of along the firewall along these factory wiring looms and basically all we need to do is give this thing power and ground so you're just going to use the red for power black for ground and then these two wires here are optional if you have an AEM data logger which I'm not going to be using and then at that point part of this harness as well is this connector here and that just plugs into the back of our gauge right here so we're gonna be mounting this inside of this driver side - vents which I'm gonna show you in a minute but check out this really cool 2:11 hack and I didn't know this until I started my youtube channel and someone pointed it out to me but what we have here this 15 amp fuse that is for the cigarette lighter so what you can do is you can switch this from Keyon power to being powered on all the time if you'd like all you have to do is take this fuse and move it one slot over so check this out as soon as I take this fuse out move it over one slot I don't know if you can hear that beeping noise but I have something plugged in through my cigarette lighter right now which makes a sound when it's activated so we have full time power right now but that is not what we want we want Keyon power only to power our Gage and as you guys can probably guess by now I will be powering the gauge off of the cigarette lighter fuse it's a 15 amp fuse and am only calls for 5 amps worth of protection on this circuit this thing doesn't draw anything and I've hooked it up just like this in my e 55 for the wideband which is also from aam and calls for a 5 amp fuse and it's worked perfectly for about the last year so a really cool non-evasive way to add a circuit on any car really is to use one of these right here this is I think it's called an add a fuse or something or add a circuit you get these on Amazon I'll link them down below there are a few pennies each I believe they're very inexpensive so basically they have two slots for fuses so this one right here is a 5 amp fuse and then all we need to do here is pull out the fuse for the circuit that we want to steal our power from then we take that fuse stick it in the add a circuit so that it is still protected and just like this I'm holding a camera with one hand okay so there we go and then you just install this right back where that fuse was that you took that's it so now we just connect this right here it comes with a butt connector to our red right here and we're sending 12 volts to this gauge without splicing or cutting or doing anything evasive to the car so you can completely remove this and you haven't cut up your wiring harness so I'll show you how this installs in the car here in a minute but this is our driver side dash event and this is a little adapter that goes in place of these sliders right here and fits a normal sized gauge like this one so I got this from Victory Road performance and I'll leave a link down below with a coupon code this is a really nice and neat solution for getting a gauge in one of these 211 chassis ii classes and i have one just like this in my e 55 and it fits and looks really really nice so once you have this out which is just a couple screws I'll show you here in a minute all you have to do is remove these right here you got to remove this section by simply kind of just prying it out okay so don't worry if these all come apart because not gonna be using that any longer and then all you have to do is slide this in and it has these have little holes here so these are just gonna fit in there I believe it's this way or maybe this way whatever way it is these slide right in yeah looks pretty good alright guys bear with me very tight quarters in here but to get the - event out it is very very simple you just have a panel that sits right in here you just pull that off with your hands then you have a piece of wood grain that sits in here this also just pulls right off there are no screws and then to get that vent off you have a screw here a screw right here and then don't forget this one right here everybody always forgets this and breaks it off so then at this point we are just simply removing these guys right here and they just pull right out you're just not gonna be using these anymore alright so there you go so you are still gonna have a vent here it's gonna be partially blocked up though by the gage as you could imagine but I've had this in my e55 for about a year at least probably over a year now through the summer and everything it doesn't affect really anything in the cabin so what's really nice about this as you guys are gonna see once we fire this thing up for the first time is this gage is now very nicely placed in your let me try this peripheral I cannot say that word guys I'm sorry but you know what I mean you can see the gage right here so when you're making a pass at the track or driving around you will know exactly what your exhaust gas temperatures are at all times so I can't really show you how I'm running the wiring through the firewall and out here to grab power from that cigarette lighter fuse because it's under the dash there's just no room but all you need to know is that you pop out the module that sits right here there it is it just comes right out very easy and then you can fish your wiring harness through here see that bunch of wires right there that goes right through the firewall there's a grommet and it goes right underneath there and you can run it right up to that gage it's very very easy and then I'll show you after I'm done here where I ran the ground - also very very easy and then we're firing this thing up to see if it works alright the wiring and everything is complete and I already turned the ignition on the system works perfectly fine but I'm gonna save the first start for all of us to do together this is my first time starting her up with the egt gage very excited I know I'm kind of a dork I just wanted to show you the final install guys here's where I ran the ground wire I like put a little piece of shrink wrap over the yellow or orange color of these little connectors that they use the eyelid connectors always have a weird color so I think this looks pretty clean and then our ground just simply enters into this box here is our power hooked up to our add a circuit and then obviously there's a cover here so you won't see any of that and then we have our wiring harness run along there and here is our connector so again once we get the big engine cover on you basically won't see any of the wiring at all so I'm really happy with the install it was very very easy let's go fire this thing up see what the EEG T's are and we're gonna set a warning in the gauge this thing will actually beep at you I think and start flashing if you're eg T's get too high so we're gonna test that out and see exactly what it does all right guys here we go our first start up with the egt gauge everything is complete the installation is completely done I think this looks pretty cool so got our glow plug light and here we go look at that heats up right away now it started at 83 because I did have to move the car over so I set the warning on this thing really low so this is what happens I set it at like 260 or something like that so it'll start flashing at you if you start getting really really high so we can simply just raise that by going this way so we're gonna put that up - let's see yeah let's go with 936 I think that sounds pretty good so here we are 321 degrees we just fired this thing up obviously the engine is cold I need some fuel and I'm gonna go drive it around for a minute I'm gonna go get some gas actually I mean some diesel let's see where we're at just normally driving around okay so I went and got fuel and then I had to leave for work so it is the next day and of course we had an ice storm last night so I haven't been able to test anything at wide open throttle but just generally driving around generally cruising around we're at about 350 to 600 degrees roughly it just kind of depends on how fast you're going on your RPM and if you go even a quarter throttle or a half throttle this thing shoots up to like eight nine hundred degrees so I'm not really sure if that's normal or not I don't have much information to compare to because honestly no one really Modifieds these cars so if you guys have any egt information on the Mercedes om 648 engine I would love to hear it what are you guys that while cruising what are you at wide open throttle and what are your modifications and of course I will keep all of you guys updated in a future video we're gonna see this thing in action at wide open throttle and we're also going to be testing it on the dyno and I'm really excited to see what the changes are to the e GT as we modify the vehicle so with that being said I hope you guys really enjoyed this video if you did hit the thumbs up button share the video subscribe if you're new and most importantly don't wing it with the welder to be honest with you I'm really not happy with those welds I think the manifold is coming off I'm gonna redo it and then paint it it's just not up to my standards so I hope you guys have an awesome day and I will see you all in the next video [Music]

Channel: LegitStreetCars

Views: 170,716

Keywords: TURBO DIESEL, DIESEL ENGINE, EGT PROBE, MELTED PISTON, BLOWN ENGINE, MERCEDES, CDI, legitstreetcars cdi, exhaust gas temperature, egt gauge, turbo manifold, WELDING, BOOST, turbo diesel mercedes, ENGI

Id: f4DKyGtjRBU

Length: 25min 38sec (1538 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 23 2019