Do Your Own 3-Angle Valve Seats!

hey there welcome back to the channel today we're going to do a three angle valve job on a head we're going to do it in our own garage with about 250 worth of tools costs about the same or a little bit less than taking this to a machine shop and it's just as accurate let's get to it [Music] because this head had blown that because this head had blown that head gasket i took it over to the machine shop and had him through this because this because this head had blown its head gasket in several places wanted to make sure it wasn't warped so i took it over to the machine shop had him true up this mating surface i don't have the capability in-house to do something this wide at least not as flat as i want this to be the next thing i need to do is work on these valve seats it's pretty easy to do if you've got the tools the tools are i think probably less expensive than having it done by a machine shop definitely less expensive if you're doing more than one head and it's kind of interesting to do it really is not difficult you may recall when i took this apart especially this one here is really eroded so what we're going to do is get these cleaned up first that's the first step and then we'll start doing the cutting work [Laughter] the goal here is to just get all the large carbon and everything off then we want to degrease it so that we're back down to the you know dry metal to cut these seats i'm going to use this newer style carbide cutter these ones are for a new way they make cheaper ones from china but i went with the good ones this one has two different angles you can see it's got a 30 degree here it's marked and then a 45 degree here then there are also single angles like this one and this is our 60. so these two together will give us our three angle valve job along with the cutters you also need one of these pilots this end of the pilot is tapered so it's thinner here and gets thicker here so that when you drop it down into the valve guide it seats they also make a style that you can twist up here and the end here expands gives you a little bit broader range but they're also more expensive first thing we want to do is drop in this guide shaft get it down in and then i tend to give it a little bit of a twist make sure that it's in there nice and solid then take your cutter and gently put it down in this is the cutting blade here so this is a carbide insert you want the insert to be right about the middle where it's touching the surface that it wants to cut we don't want to cut all the way up at the end or the inside we want it close to the middle as we can slide it down on here you can see that it's in about the middle right there i've already adjusted these also check them that they're not impacting the head itself in this area so just rotate it nicely i'm lifting it just a little bit so i can rotate i'm not trying to cut right now check the other angle same not impacting here and it's somewhere around middle there and then check that third one and the contact zone on this is down in that seat a bit but those all look really good the next step is we actually want to put some marking fluid on the seat here so we can see what's actually being cut i'm just going to use die chem red they also make blue and i probably have some around here but this is handy so we'll use it just completely coat the seat once the marking fluid is dry we're going to put a drop of oil on this shaft and then we start with the 45 you can see it says 45 as this one the goal here is we're going to cut the actual contact surface of this seat that contacts with the face of the valve the valve face will also be 45 it may be 46 or so sometimes they get re-ground to a different angle the valves for this i've actually sent off to dr tork he's going to do those because he has the machine and he's nowhere near me so we'll have him do those and explain exactly how that process is done but the goal here is we want this face and the face of the valve that goes in there to match perfectly so we're going to cut these at 45. we just take this t-handle put it on here we're going to give it light pressure not a lot and we're going to rotate this and it's going to cut the metal and it's going to remove that marking fluid we'll just do a little bit and then we'll take it back off and take a look at the the state of that seat again does not take a lot of pressure and we're trying to take off the least amount we can to get it clean so if i take that off let me wipe it off here and then let's zoom in and take a look at this you can see it's taken off the marking fluid and it looks really good up in here but if you look over here there's still a couple of spots there and up here so those are areas where there's still some seat erosion so we're going to take a little bit more off when we get to this valve it's going to take quite a bit more but you can see that just by hand we've got this pretty clean already so we're going to take a little bit more try to get those spots out the key is to go slow and take your time let's take a look at this now see it's a little discolored right there that one is mostly gone otherwise it looks pretty good i'm going to go maybe another time around just to try to get that out that is also right at the edge of the seat so that might get removed when we do the inner angle we'll show you that here in a second you can see it's clean and you can see all these little shavings those are the cuttings that are coming off of that seat so our 45 is now cut on this next i'm going to clean it up and i'm going to put marking fluid on it again to coat that area that i just did so this surface here that we just cut that 45 that's what actually does the ceiling so that is what comes in contact with the face of the valve and gets you your seal so you've got good compression when we cut that there's an edge down here and an edge up here now and those are kind of sharp edges so what we're going to do is use that 30 and 15 or actually i guess the 30 and 60. we'll use the 30 to remove just a little band up on top of this to smooth that and then the 60 to remove a little band down below the idea is so instead of it being flat 45 and then flat down in we kind of give it a rounded profile it's not really round again we need that flat surface to contact the valve but it gives a smoother transition for air to flow down in here the reality is for most work that you're doing especially daily drivers and street rods you probably don't need to do the three angle you could probably get away with just using a 45. we have the tools so we might as well do all three it doesn't matter which one we do next whether we do this 30 up at the top or the 60 down inside i'm going to start with the 60 here and again this one will take very little effort and probably only one turn to cut we can remove that you can see how it's removed that edge there and that's why we put marking fluid back on it we're trying to keep an eye on the width of this surface right here so this is what we just cut we're also going to cut up here on this but we want a nice smooth transition for air to come down in now we're going to use our 30 degree here don't need much pressure at all you can kind of see it here we've got a shiny spot and then it's red and then it's shiny that red in between the two shiny spots is where it's going to contact the valve let's get a little closer you can see that's a nice uniform width all the way around and that's what we want so this seat is effectively done the one thing we want to do next is we want to do a final fit of a valve to that seat just to make sure everything is perfect and we'll use lapping compound to do that so we remove our guide next we take a little bit of this valve grinding compound put just a little bit in here i have a valve that's going to go in this is brand new the key is that we want to make sure that we keep the valve that we lap here with this hole so i've marked it this is the one in final assembly that's going to go into this valve hole drop it down in and we use just one of these valve lapping tools [Music] and that should remove all of that marking fluid from that face should be nice and even and smooth you can see it looks really nice it will not be shiny it'll have a just a light dull finish to it the valve face itself you can see is also now got this dull finish all the way around the margin is this flat spot here but then on the face there's a little bit of shininess then it's dull where that lapping compound was rubbing and then it's shiny again that's a really good sign so the sealing surface in the seat here is actually right in the middle of this valve face which is exactly what we want and it's got that dull finish all the way around so the brand new valve the face looks like this once we've lapped it it looks like this so it's going to go from this shiny surface to just a light dull satin that helps you to see exactly where the ceiling area is but that's all there is to it we just have to repeat this process i'll go down and do all of the intakes first then i'll go back into all of the exhaust because the tools that i have actually will reach both of these i just have to adjust this cutter all the way the other side in order to do the exhaust so finish all the intakes then go back into all the exhausts that's all there is to it real easy to do yourself not expensive i think i paid about two hundred dollars i would guess for all of the pieces maybe 250 still cheaper than a valve job for this and this way i know it's been done right thanks for watching you

Channel: Yoshimoshi

Views: 34,467

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Id: sYdFRq0gJ-8

Length: 15min 7sec (907 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 09 2022