How to do a True 3 Angle Valve Job SUPER CHEAP Using Neway Tools (as good as any pro machine shop!)

all right this video is about how to do a professional 3 angle valve job basically at home in your living room or in your garage probably better in your garage and do it for very little money 3 angle valve job is kind of the industry standard these days and it's the best geometry for performance and most of the time you find yourself going to a machine shop and paying somebody else to do it for a lot of money this method allows you to do it at home for for very little and it uses these new way cutters which are US made very high quality tools new way has been around since 1952 and it basically uses a simple pilot and cutter method this is an example of a 62 degree cutter and then this is an example of a dual angle cutter one way is 30 degrees the other way is 45 degrees and with all those three you get your three angle valve job it works off of these pilots they're sized in either a standard size or in a small size depending on the cutter you use either they basically fit into the valve guide and then you take the cutter and slide that down on top of it and make the cut and it will give you tolerances they're rivaled out of you know very expensive machines the reason they do not use these cutters in you know some of the bigger shops although I've seen a lot of shops that actually do use these things most of the bigger shops have moved to very expensive tools that cost fifty a hundred thousand dollars that basically cut all of the angles at once and they've even gone to five angle now and these cutters they took a long time because you're doing one angle then you're doing another angle then you're switching this over and you're doing the third angle so it is a slower process so obviously job shops are going to be not interested in doing it this way anymore but because it doesn't require any power and all you need is the pilot and the cutter you're basically good to go pretty much anywhere you could do it you could you you could put these tools in a travel bag and you know do this on the road if you wanted to it's very quick it's very easy in that sense the other thing I like to do is after I do the three angle cut as you'll see is I like to take a valve lapping compound and use a valve lapping tool in order to verify that the valve contact area is correct or the valve can't the seat width is correct and to do that out you'll need some dike m and a lot of people use Prussian blue but I don't like using that stuff I like using the the dike and method alright so in terms of a three angle valve job it's fairly easy to understand there is a 30 degree angle there is a 45 degree angle sometimes it's not 45 degrees sometimes it's different but for the most part it's a 30 45 and a 60 the only angle that actually makes contact with the valve seat is the 45-degree angle and your we're gonna basically verify that the seat width which is the essentially the area that this 45-degree angle contacts the both the valve and the seat is correct by using some die cam and a little valve lapping compound all right so the first step that I've done here is I've taken my die cam and I've painted all of the the valve seats with the die cam second step is to take the pilot this is the new way pilot this is 9/32 or 0.2 eighty one pilot put it in the valve guide make sure the valve guide is clean and everything and then give it a little just a little bit of a turn right at the end I always like to just do this by hand that'll remove these these pilots are tapered and that'll remove any movement at all I like to use the 45-degree cutter first because the 45-degree cutter is the actual contact in what I'm going to be looking for is the actual seat width just as an initial reading this head originally had a three angle valve job had about I don't know about 40 or 50 thousand miles on it and you know it wasn't looking so great so I've got the initial geometry here so what I want to do is I just want to cut a very light cut here I'm gonna slide the cutter right on top and then just by hand I'm going to turn it I'm gonna get it started I'll pull it out and then didn't cut enough so I'll take my t-handle and I will take a more aggressive cutter just a few swipes again you just apply pressure evenly kind of smoothly letting on and then smoothly letting off all while you're turning and I like to finish it up with a few turns just by hand and I can see here that I'm barely I have cut away a little bit of material but I need to cut quite a bit more to achieve my 45 degree true 45-degree angle here so I'll put the cutter back in and this time I'll take a couple more fairly substantial cuts here again you're just going a few tenths per rotation here and don't do that never never drop the cutter down just very easily take it off and now you can see that I've got a nice clear shiny 45 degree first cut alright so here you can see that D that first 45-degree cut has been made and it's a fairly large seat width I'd say at this point it's little over two millimeters I'm going to be shooting for two millimeters of seat width plus two millimeters of seat width on the actual valve face so this is a good first first cut alright so already with my first cut here I've noticed that the seat width is probably a little bit excessive plus I want to achieve my other two angles the other two angles are really not done for any other purpose than optimal performance what happens is when the air goes into the engine when the valve is open any of these sharp angles on the end edges of the seats basically create minor vortices that create an obstruction to flow so the reason that we cut a 30-degree angle on the top and a 60-degree angle on the bottom is to get rid of that harsh transition so that's why I always like to cut my 45-degree angle first because I like to be able to see where the seat width is so then I'm going to take my 60-degree cutter slide that on again I'm going to start it by hand just take a few swipes remember that this is something you know none of the other videos on this subject talks about but this 60-degree cutter because it's at a more of an acute angle it cuts a lot harsher than the other the width of 45 in the 30 degree with 33 the 30 degree cuts very lightly 45 is the next harshest and the 60 degrees very harsh so you don't have to you know go crazy with this you're gonna be cutting a lot of material out with a very little effort and very little force in fact you're gonna want to go very slowly on this one so I'm just going to take one or two swipes here again very little because of this cutter is so aggressive I'm going to pull out and I see that I've cut a very small amount maybe you know three or four thousand so I'll go in for just a little bit more okay all right perfect there I've taken about a five thousand cutter so that looks that looks very nice you can see here the very slight five thousands cut that I've taken to form that edge at 60 degrees all right now I'm gonna do the 30 degree cut again it's labeled on the cutter it says 30 and as a arrow pointing go ahead and slide that and again I'm just gonna very lightly take a cut here if your valve seat tends to be very close to the chamber wall here it might cut a little bit out of the you know in this case this is an aluminum sold in your head and that's fine you just want to make sure that these cutters aren't extended too far you'll notice that each cutter has a small allen head screw here and what you do is you can untighten this allen head and then these cutters will slide up and down and they are directional so always make sure that if you take these out you'll see the T is marked the T all those faces outwards and its marked e on each one of the the cutters and what you want to do is you just want to make sure you know they're all relatively sticking out the same amount you don't want one to be really far and they're to be close ultimately you want the area that is actually doing the cutting to have full contact on each one of these cutters other than that the the setup of these things isn't very critical you just slide them generally into place and you know as long as you've got good clearance to your combustion chamber wall you should be fine so I'll take a couple of cuts here okay just get rid of some of the shavings here real quick and now you can see that my 30 degree 45 degree and 60 degree angle cut has been achieved all right so now I finished doing my cuts at least initially I want to be able to check my work I want to be able to understand that my 45 degree angle which in this case is the actual area that's going to contact the actual valve that this is the correct width and that I have this contact area on the bow in the right place so I'm gonna take this pilot out it's always a good idea to have a little bit of compressed air either in a can or you know a compressor and be able to blow everything out be able to keep everything very clean I also have a this is called a bore mock this is a actually for a firearm but I found it's perfect for doing a quick cleaning of the valve guide because we've created metal shavings we don't know about to then drop into the valve guide and then when we do this next step have it creates some kind of friction so what I'm going to do is I'm going to take the valve and I'm going to do a hand lapping method in order to see where exactly where my valve contact area is and also to do a final cut that'll make sure that this valve is perfectly seated to the valve seat and these are these are valves that I'm reusing they were fine I just clean them up and this is particularly important to do if you do this step without grinding the actual valve face these are within tolerance so I'm not really you know creating any kind of a problem here usually if these valves were particularly ground up I had all kinds of problems he would need to grind the valve but in this case no five valve grinding is necessary so the first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to take my dike m and I'm gonna repaint this because this next step is going to show me exactly where all the contact patches are and I'm gonna let that dry now I'm going to take my valve and I'm gonna do the exact same thing I'm gonna take some time and I'm going to pay the entire seating area all right so I've allowed my Dyke m to dry on both the seat and the the valve and what I'm going to do now is I'm going to take a little bit of this valve grinding compound this is a Permatex valve grinding compound I'm just gonna dab one bit and then a 180 degrees and I'm gonna put another little small bit that's all you really need this is not heavy-duty valve lapping this is just a final test fit to verify our contact patches now to do this I'm going to put a little bit of oil on the end of the valve because I'm going to be spinning the valve inside the guide and now I'm going to take my valve lapping tool you can get these at any auto parts store for just a couple of bucks and stick it on the end of the valve I'm just gonna get it started by hands just twisting it nice and slowly back and forth then I'm gonna actually basically lap though you'll notice that it went from a kind of a low pitched grinding noise to a very high pitched noise when you hit the high pitched noise you're done you've pushed all the valve lapping compound out and you've cut the seat so now I'm just going to take this out I'm going to take a rag and I'm just going to wipe off this valve flapping compound and there you can see I have a perfect view of where my valve contact area is and it's perfect it's up enough from a margin and down enough from the top the distance from the bottom edge of the valve to the valve contact patch is called the margin you want that to be you basically want this contact patch to be right in the center and most manufacturers have some kind of a specification for the width and you can take a cap or something or even a ruler and just measure what this width is I happen to know on these cars it's about I think two two and a half millimeter this might be a little bit short right here I might have to go back and do another pass but you can also check it on the valve seat as well just get rid of that compound and there you can see the dye chem has been left on a thirty degree angle it's obviously not on the 60 degree angle and it's just left on the 45 degree angle here's a better view of it you can see the contact patch on the valve and you can see the contact patch on the seat all right so as I've said you can get a super professional three angle valve job that's pretty much as good as any shop is is going to give you for a very inexpensive cost I mean all these tools here the two cutters the pilot and the t-handle I think I spent a little less than two hundred dollars to do this and that's less than what a job shop would would charge for chest cutting the the three angle valves valve job some people asked me well would the procedure be any different if you had new valves well no or or if you had you know resurfaced valves I always like to lap the surfaces together at the end of the cuts machine shops will tell you no that's not necessary that's because most of the time they're either grinding the valve face or they're just using new valves and they're cutters are designed to go straight in cut all three angles at once and everything just supposedly is high tolerance enough that they claim that within the first few seconds of the engine running the valuable lap to the machined face I think that's them just basically not wanting to do the manual labor because obviously the valve lapping portion of this takes the most amount of time but I think it's gives you that extra tolerance between the actual seat and the valve face I think it's just tired tolerance and the main reason nobody does that is because I tell you oh you don't need to do that is because they don't want to spend the time doing it and there's probably minimal you know gain but for an enthusiast like me it's it's no big deal to spend the extra time to to lap the surfaces together and it really gives you the the ultimate seal and then you don't have to worry so much about the break-in procedures because there's always going to be a break-in procedure that everybody wants you to follow because the Machine surfaces need to adjust one another bla bla well you can just do it with the lapping tool and a few extra minutes so yeah this is this is very cool for $200 I have a professional three angle valve job I have tools that are made in the United States and are gonna last a lifetime you can actually just get new carbide cutters from new way if they ever wear out so it's really bizarre to me that more people don't do it this way more car guys don't do it this way I guess you know machine shops have to stay in business but this is a this is a really good setup if you have the time and it's it's pretty sweet so one question that might inevitably come up is why do you a three angle valve job why you know use these cutters when we could just about lap the valves well first of all valve lapping if you don't have three angles cut on your seat if it's just a single angle valve job then you're never going to be able to achieve three angles just lapping the valve so right off you would have to have a three angle cut already on the seat to even you know effectively lappa valve and retain the the three angle geometry so you need the cutters to get to the geometry in the first place the other thing about valve lapping is that unlike with actual machine tools that cut a very very high tolerance surface if your valve especially if the valve face has all kinds of imperfections on it it's go it has pitting from a lot of wear and the seat is the same story then you know it's really hard to use valve Wapping techniques there in order to restore any kind of good geometry you'll see in other videos that people will take the end of a valve lapping tool they'll pull this little rubber thing off and they'll put it on the end of a drill and they'll start you know using the drill to spin up the valve that's a bad idea on a lot of levels you're wearing your what valve guide but the reason they're doing that is they're getting frustrated with just doing the standard hand technique because you know it's not going fast enough and valve lapping is not designed to take off a lot of material to me valve lapping the purpose of valve lapping in terms of high performance is just to give it that last little final cut so you know for sure that the valve seat and the valve face are perfectly matched if you're doing any kind of lapping in order to restore the geometry on heavily pitted stuff I would say that's you know it's a complete waste of time so that's why these cutters I always start with the cutters even if the valve seats are in good shape and the geometry looks okay on the valve face I'm still gonna use the cutters to just give myself that initial geometry that I know is gonna be a hundred percent accurate and correct alright thanks a lot guys

Channel: Chris Morlock

Views: 163,339

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Id: lEKLDR7Zikg

Length: 27min 0sec (1620 seconds)

Published: Wed Apr 29 2020