So guys here i am going to perform the rpm test... Turning ON the LASER ok ... So we are doing at present 4000 RPM Let's increase it further 5,500 RPM ... More 6700 RPM ... More 8700 RPM Very high speed...More We are reaching 11000 RPM. Let's go more 12,700 13,500 RPM. Let's go even more. 14,500 RPM....More Let's go little higher by increaing the voltage because the speed is full now. 16000...More So 16000 is the max i am doing here. Well it was actually AAA Battery type but i converted it into a rechargeable one. You see the provision of charging and Lithium ion batteries & the ON-OFF circuit. Ready ! Hi guys. You are watching Channel Mr Electron and today i am planning on salvaging components
from an old CPU. that's been lying around for 10-15 yrs. It's really old. and is no longer in use. I am specially interested in its power supply but let's see what else
i can find there! So we have it! A floppy drive 2003. An LG CD-ROM drive 2002. A computer power supply 2003, once again! And lastly we have this 12V motherboard cooling
fan. I would really like to open up this floppy
drive & look what is inside because i have never done before although
i have done the same thing with CD and DVD drives many
times! So this is how a floppy drive looks from inside
and i am not going to get into details. So let's proceed further. Now i am going to test this motherboard cooling
fan 12V with my variable power supply. Link for which will be provided below in the
description. You can check it out and buy it from there. As you can see that it is working quite nice
which is good! Finally comes the main power supply for which
i am actually making this video. So let's open it up and see how it looks from
inside! Now guys the serial number for this power
supply has been provided but even if we consider the lowest one we
are going to get max of 12V & 6 Amps and 10 Amps at 5V which is good! It's really dusty and i expected nothing less. After cleaning it up, let's check if it is
working or not. So the first step is to take out the wire
bunch from its slot. After that being done, you have to cut the
wires in such a way that you remove only the end pins out. You have to remove the zip ties as well. Now to understand this wiring we will have
to open up these screws, this one & this one to look what is below this circuit. I mean how these wires
have been connected to each other that can be seen how they have been soldered
on the second layer of this PCB. So let's remove the screws. It is really important for full utilisation
of your power supply. So let's take it off! So guys, i have understood the wiring except
for these 2 wires. I don't know what these 2 are used for. Rest, i have to mark it
although. Let's place it back and then do it. So, i have placed it all back and i am also
done with the labling. Green = START, Red = +5v Blue = - 12v , White = -5v , Yellow = +12v
, Orange = +3.3v , Black = Ground . Don't know what these wires are for. I am going to utilise the rest of them. its time to power it up. You will also need this connector cable. fits in here.. Plug it in. Turn it on. Oops ! it didn't work, i have to connect the
START wire and when it starts, the exhaust fan will start
running. Green + Black = Start So what you have to do is connect it permanently,
i am going to turn it OFF, take one black wires and twist
it like this. Now let's test the power supply. I have this car headlamp bulb 12 volt 60 watts. So, let's connect
this one and see how it works. Yellow = +12v , Ground is common Ha ! you see so let's do the multimeter check for the exact
output volt and here we have 12.8 volt DC Now we have a red wire which is +5v and
here we have 5.095 v DC exact now comes the orange wire and here we have
3.4 v now comes the important part of the -12v Let's test it. Negative means black (meter terminal)
is going to be connected over here and positive over here can we have or 24 volts output .That is nice. now I just figured out one more thing connect
one wire to the -5v which is white wire and the positive to +12v and here we have our 18v, 17.85v Now, let's connect it to the red one, 10.18v Blue it is -6.88v So, if we reverse the polaity, we will have
+6.88v. Yeah ! And if i connect red one to the orange one,
we have 8.48 volts Now Guys let's start with some practical applications Application 1 , charging of AA & AAA Battery
Cells If i choose 2 wires, one is +3.3v & other
is +5v, this combination will give me 1.673v and with this i can charge my 1.5v AA & AAA
Batteries So, here its all connected. Now to know if it is actulally charging my
cells , i will connect my meter pins. and here we have 1.261v. Now if it will increase,
we'll know that yes its charging. i will have to wait and here we have 1.262v Second application, charging your 3.7v battery,
for which you are going to need 6A Diode white= -5v , Black = Ground If we check the voltage at these wires the output as you can see is only 4.9v So what i am going to do is take this diode and because, black is +ve this time, this
diode is going to create a 0.7v drop thus making it only
4.2v which is needed for charging our 3.7v battery so here i am going to use 2 cables black and
white, black will represent -ve ofcourse. So -5v to jumper cable link for which will be provided in the description and white is for the -ve of the diode so we have white one over all +ve and black
overall -ve and the battery this side is +ve , you see
the little indication of the +ve yea ! so our cells should have started charging
, lets check it. So here i have connected the meter pinouts
and its showing here an increasing voltage. It has reached 4v and increasing So the third application is your 5v wire which
is the USB. So
we all know what it is used for, charging cell phones etc. So i am not gonna get in details. You can also charge your 6v lead acid batteries
by using the combination white and blue. The output is 6.74v and here is also a 9v dc output for combination
yellow and orange which can be used for charging
our 9v batteries now comes the 12v , yellow and black. now this one is an 80w car headlamp bulb - night
eye its so bright ! and guys , please note that for best performance
output from this power supply, make sure that you
solder the similar colored wires like all yellow
together, all red together and so on. because my model here as you can see is this
Dot indicating 400 ATX So it is 5v 20 Amps output, 12v 10 Amps and
max upto 300 Watts. So obviously i will need to solder all of
them together. to get the highest possible current output. now guys this is a 12v 22 Amps motor yeah ! it is like pulling my hand upwards. extremely high thrust. thats a really great salvage. so guys now comes the testing part for our
24v motor, so lets connect and see and the wires
we are going to choose here is the yellow which is
+12v and blue which is -12v. So together = 24v working nice ! so guys this is a 36v 15A DC Motor again from
an ebike i have already connected one wire to +12v
and now comes the -12v which means i will run it at 24v
instead of 36v so let's connect it. Ohh ! very high inertia. and now comes the final part, can we charge
a 12v battery. Answer = YES ! here i have placed a multimeter take one cable of the multimeter and one -12v
wire you see -12v, ok , hold it like this, so its
held there. now take the other one which is +ve and connect
it to 3.3v and here we have our 15v DC. So all we have to do is
reduce it a little bit. So take a 6A Diode. and focus on the grey side and its terminal which will be connected to the -12v wire. After that
comes your battery. So the -ve wire will connect to the -ve terminal of the battery now here i have also connected a multimeter,
i mean one of its terminals which is black to the negative and diode is just behind it if you can see
here now i am gonna connect the other terminal
and the multimeter is showing 11.94v meaning its discharged. so lets connect it and when i am gonna connect
this wire like i have connected this white wire to orange
one which is the +3.3v to this terminal of the battery
+ve terminal. and if it shows change in voltage , means
its charging. and here as you can see that the voltage is
increasing. Rapidly ... so i will have to leave it connected. So yes its charging the battery quite good. Hi! Guys. In my previous video you saw me open this floppy drive So today i am going to open it further and look what else is inside that i can salvage So guys, that's my 5v supply that i will use to test my BLDC Motor from the floppy drive Links for the components used in this project have been provided in the description. You can check it out and buy from there. So, seems like it is not working. Therefore i am planning on using an external driver. BLDC Driver. This piece is for signalling hall sensor. Now Guys, this is my dead soldering iron and i am going to resuse its bit because as you can see the space between the armature poles is is very small and i
have to desolder the thin wires to take out the armature now guys this is my working soldering iron so here i am going to replace the bit with the one i just made so guys, at present the RPM is at only 12.3v lets increase it to increase the RPM now guys, to measure the rpm at which the disc is running, i have placed black tape
and this is the open area that is going to reflect the laser back to the tachometer so guys, here i am running the motor at 17v and here i have around 6000 rpm 19.1v , we have 14,000 RPM
