3 Simple Inventions and Great Ideas

hi you are watching channel mr  electron and these what you see   are a few broken or damaged mobile  chargers so today in this video i'm   going to use them to make a 12 volts  power supply for charging my batteries so guys these are a few five volts mobile  chargers that i have salvaged let's test them so guys here as you can see that i'm  connecting the mobile charger circuit   to my 220 volts home socket power supply  now let's test it with an incandescent bulb   although the voltage is not 12 volts from  the mobile charger but still it is glowing   a little dim but yes it is glowing so  this one is fine now let's test this one working working so all of them are working and now  i can connect them all together   now this what you see is an old  dead 12 volts 8 amperes power supply   smps and because it's dead let's open it  up remove the circuit and reuse its case as you can see the transformer shows the rating 12  volts 8 amperes so guys i've cleaned up the box as   much as i could and after that i also thought  about repairing this circuit board which was   damaged so fortunately there was a minor problem  this was the capacitor you see the top part of it   it seems a little stretched and you can see that  the cover also got stretched and this was the   piece of it that uh told me that it was 100 micro  farad you see 100 mu f and a 450 volts that's what   i took from it so what i did was uh instead of  the 450 volts capacitor i used a 400 volts and 82   micro farad instead of 100 fahrenheit and guess  what that was the only problem that it started   working just fine also i took the capacitor 400  volts and 82 microfarad you see 82 new f 400 volts   from this slot and this is another circuit that  was lying around not in use so let's test this   one first okay so let's turn it on and see  how this 8 amperes power supply performs you   see the light has started glowing and there is no  blast so here what i have is a bike headlamp bulb   you see 12 volts 35 watts so let's connect this  one first yeah you see it's glowing pretty bright and here i have full 100 watts bulb 8  amperes you see 12 volts 100 to 90 watts   so let's connect this one and this should be  even brighter oops power surplus turned off   maybe it's not handling this kind of load  maybe it's old let's try by simply switching yeah oh wow it is so hot and now it's working  once again with my lab lights turned off   oh she is so ripe oh it's very hot now let's  also measure the current at the same time and we did a max of 8.68 wow   the supply is working very nice now  let's test my high current drone motor wow nice and guys and now that  the power supply is working great   i can no longer use the box for my mobile  charger 12 volts power supply project and   i will have to use something else for that  so let's place it back as it was before   so guys now that i have packed it  successfully let's turn it on and yeah   you see here the red light indicator it's working  now car headlamp night eye wow nice and now for my   mobile charger circuits i'm going to use this pvc  case there were too many stickers on it so i had   to like grind it okay and uh the case is just fine  for my circuits and these two can go the sideways so okay so guys here as you can see that i've  placed all the circuits on the walls of the   case and i've fixed them with screws you see this  one same for this one this one and that one and it   is quite strong it's not gonna come out now  let's start with the parallel connection of   this side of each circuit like the 220 volt  side that is going to be connected in parallel so so guys here as you can see that i've completed  the soldering part for the 220 volts high voltage   side and here i've used the heat shrink tube for  covering it up for safety looks quite nice now   let's connect this cord to the 220 volt socket and  see if each individual charger is getting supply   so all of them are getting the 220 volt  supply now let's connect the outputs together   now guys here as you can see that there are  four power supplies or mobile charger circuits   and uh because this one and this one these two  are a little weak circuits i mean they're going   to produce only 1.5 amperes each so i'm going  to connect this one and this one in parallel   to increase up or double up the current and this  one is good enough on its own so is this one so   these two in parallel and then this set will be  connected in series with this one and this one and you see the bulb is glowing really bright  this time because all the chargers are working   together to light up one single bulb and the  voltage is quite high really nice very bright   and not just that uh it can even power up a car  headlamp bulb this is yeah here it's written 12   volts 55 watts so it is quite a strong bulb  you see it's glowing really bright very hot   from this side so let's back it up take out  two wires from the box and then cover it up so next level next level   next level   next level next level so let's check the voltage that it is producing  and here as you can see it's 15.5 volts dc which   is quite high for charging a 12 volts battery we  need around 14.8 volts so guys now i'm going to   use this 6 amperes diode to create a 0.7 volts  drop because the voltage produced by the power   supply is 15.5 volts so 15.5 minus 0.7 will make  it 14.8 volts dc which is best for charging our   batteries so this side of the diode is positive  and the silver side or gray side is negative   so the positive side has been connected to the  positive white wire and this one will be connected   over here but before i do that i will have to  connect this metal sheet which is going to act as   a heat sink for the diode although the current  is not going to be much higher but still there   is a possibility that's going to heat up although  you can do the same process by placing the diode   inside the box but i'm not doing that so guys  finally the project is complete now let's test   it with our battery now guys this is the parcel  that i got from loom solar which is one of the   biggest solar panel manufacturing company in india  along with batteries and their charge controllers   so if you want to have a look at their website  link has been provided in the description   so as you can see guys that it's a 12 volts  battery which looks quite similar to a ups battery   the current rating as you can see is 12 ampere r  uh with an expected lifespan of up to 10 years and   24 months of warranty making it two years now the  best part about this battery is that it's made of   lithium iron phosphate cells therefore larger life  span now if we have a look at its battery voltage   so as you can see they have charged it at 13.37  volts so guys here i've connected the power supply   to this battery and the multimeter is  showing the battery voltage at present   because i have not turned on the power supply yet  so when i'm going to turn it on the voltage on the   multimeter should start increasing indicating that  everything is working fine okay so turning it on   so the voltage has started increasing  and our battery has also started charging   and it is going to go to a max of 14.8  volts when the charge is going to cut   off indicating full charging so here  we have reached 14 volts and increasing super strong thrust is too high the battery is really powerful hi guys you are watching channel mr electron  and these what you see are a few 12 volts   dc motors now a dc motor is a variable current  type of load which means that the current keeps   on changing as the load changes higher the load  on the motor shaft more is the current drawn by   it next what you see are a few incandescent bulbs  which come under the category of constant current   type of resistive loads and the final ones  that you see are the constant voltage loads   which are our electronic circuits and  batteries now guys all the above loads   are rated at 12 volts but let's assume that i  only have a 20 volts 3 amps dc source now what   will happen if i connect the previously  shown loads to this higher volts supply   in case of the dc motors their no load speed will  increase because rpm is directly proportional to   the input voltage the impact will be its  brushes will wear out faster than usual   its commutators will also wear out faster than  usual there is also going to be an additional   heating which might affect the strength of magnets  used in the motor now let's consider the case of   what will happen if we connect a 20 volt supply  to a 12 volts 1 amperes bulb the bulb will fuse   instantly because more than rated current  will flow through the filament and burn it now comes the final test of connecting the  20 volts 3 amperes power supply to a 12 volts   electronic circuit or a 12 volts battery both of  them will get damaged because the battery will get   over charged with time and the electronic circuits  are too much voltage specific so keeping all that   in mind we can conclude that we need to build a 12  volts circuit let's get started first component is   1309 power transistor second one is cdc one three  five one third one are diodes zener diodes 1.8   volts each and the fourth final one is one kilo  ohm resistor and final heat sinks and few wires   that's it now comes the construction of the  circuit take the 13009 power transistor and   bend its three terminals as shown next do the  same thing with the npn one three five one power   transistor next comes the placing of thermal paste  or sink compound on the power transistor okay this   is how it is going to transfer all the heat safely  to the heatsink place it on both the transistors   now comes the part of mounting the two transistors  on the heatsink so here as you can see that i'm   going to use a single heatsink and i'm going  to mount both the transistor on a single piece   you can use two heatsinks separate heatsinks  for cooling it further but i think it is not   going to generate much of heat now take the two  zener diodes and shorten up their terminal ends   by cutting them after that connect the two zener  diodes in series like one zener diode is at 1.8   volts so if we connect two of them together in  series it's going to be 3.6 volts dc now take the   positive end of the zener diode and connect it to  the base terminal of the 1351 power transistor now   solder the base of one three double zero nine  power transistor to the emitter of one three   five one power transistor after that take a  wire and connect it to the emitter terminal of   one 1309 power transistor now comes the  collector terminals of both the transistors   these two collector terminals will be soldered  together and this point is going to be the tapping   point at which multiple connections will be made  take another wire and connect it to the collector   common collector both the transistors now bend  the zener diodes and connect their negative set   to the collector as well this is how you're going  to do it now hold the green wire as shown here and   place it through the screw hole of the  heat sink now you will need another wire   a different colored one strip it and then place  it through the other screw hole of the heatsink   lastly strip the two wires in the middle and  connect the one kilo ohm resistor to the two wires   please note that the links for all the needed  components have been provided in the description   so don't forget to check them out if  you really want to make this circuit   so well done guys it's finally time to test it  this is the laptop charger connected to the 220   volts supply and this laptop charger is converting  290 volts ec to 20 volts dc so what i'm going   to do is convert that 20 volts dc to 12 volts dc  although the output is going to be a little higher   so that there is a charge difference and current  can flow easily and remember that this green   wire here is positive and yellow one is negative  red clip will be connected to the green because   red is always denoted by positive and yellow one  will be negative and we are done now let's do the   measurement of output voltage first so pointing  the meter towards dc voltage measurement mode okay you can see there is some voltage being  deflected because of one wire connection   and now we have our full 13.09 volts dc out from  the laptop charger by using just this circuit   no transformer is needed all you got to do  is just do this it is very simple and safe   and the output voltage is pretty accurate  so the voltage testing is done now comes the   led panel glowing test so this is a 12 volts led  panel and obviously it would have burnt out or got   fused if i had connected this panel directly to  the laptop charger since this is 12 volts and this   is 20 volts so i have converted it safely to 12  volts let's see how it performs and here we have   20 volts beautifully converted to 13 volts exactly  needed for this let's turn off the lights all the   lights have been turned off and you can see that  it is blowing really bright and also there is   negligible heating because this driving transistor  is rated at 12 amperes and also connected to   a good heat sink with heatsink compound or  thermal paste so it should not be a problem turned off the camera lights as well and now  it is even more bright see pretty good right so   let's increase the loads now this is a 12 volts  35 watts bike headlamp bulb let's try this one let's turn all the lights see it's going pretty bright moving on to an even bigger bulb you see 12  volts 100 watts that's big one for car headlamp let's turn off all the lights now guys comes this high current dc motor   it is 12 volts 5 amperes really  smooth so let's test this one initially it was running on 20  volts so the rpm was higher but   now it is running at the exact needed rpm so guys i have removed the jumper cables and  i have connected the circuit directly to the   laptop charger meter is showing 0 volts dc  and let's measure the battery voltage which   as you can see is around 12.54 volts now let's  connect the jumper cables here and then see   the change in voltage at present it is 12.54  volts and you can see that it is safely increasing and we can leave it like this so guys your  question for today is what was the maximum   rpm displayed by the tachometer in my previous  project video well guys you can also carry out   the same process on a 20 volts solar panel  okay that's the battery meter and my circuit   here as you can see guys that  the voltage is increasing twelve point four seven four eight  and so on so the increase in voltage   is indicating here that the battery is charging  with the solar panel and it is really safe because   this circuit is going to limit the  output voltage to around 13.2 or   13.3 volts dc so you can even leave the battery  so that it keeps on charging all the time and   when it is fully charged then the current from the  circuit is automatically going to reduce to zero hi this what you see is a manual desoldering pump   so today in this video i'm going  to convert it into an electric pump it um um foreign now this is a high temperature sleeve and  i have used it in between the desoldering   pump tip and the nozzle now this one is  another high temperature sleeving but it is   very thin and this is my heating filament  from an old damaged heater so i've taken   a little wire out of it so what i'm going to do is  use this filament and slide it inside the sleeve   carefully so that i don't accidentally  break it so i'm going to leave this much   and it's going to be useful afterwards  now we are going to need another thin   metal wire it is not a filament but  it is going to hold this filament or   heating filament strongly on the tip so let's  take it out a little more and start with this now if you look closely i'm doing it only  at this end and not the rest of the portion   and then turn it like this done now press it like this on this side now  comes the sliding of the sleeving back again   as much as possible yeah next  comes winding it like a coil so so so i'm going to operate this newly made electric  desoldering pump at 12 volts this time i'm going   to use this 12 volts transformer you see 230  volts to 12 volts it's around 3 or 4 amps dc ac rms through rms turning it on and  here we have 3.5 amperes you see smoke that's the close-up now we need to test  it it's consuming around 46 to 50 watts   so here is a circuit board and you see this  capacitor one of its leg is broken so i'm going   to remove it because i have to repair this power  supply also so that's the end point of it okay so the supply has been turned  on let's charge it done oh oh you see i'm pushing this piston and it's doing like this pretty cool so anyways charging it once again whoa that was nice once again you see it actually desoldered  and the capacitor is out   brilliant so yeah our electric desoldering pump  is working good well guys the setup is working   really nice except that there is one problem i'll  show you you see it's getting all like wobbly   the plastic is not strong enough to hold that  high temperature i think i will have to modify   the desoldering pump then only it is going to  work i mean it is going to be a perfect piece   so let's do that we are very close so the first  thing that we need is a soldering iron well   i had this piece lying around for many years  so i thought about using this in this project so i'm going to use this heating filament from the  soldering iron in between the desoldering pump and   the tip the metal tip that i just made using  my lathe machine and the sole purpose of using   this part from the soldering iron is to prevent  the high temperatures that are going to develop   on my newly made tip from transferring to  the plastic parts of my desoldering pump   now guys i've done two changes first one  you can already see is the power supply   i've removed the transformer and i'm going to  use this 12 volts 8 amperes power supply this   time and i'm going to turn it on see red light  glowing so it's on now to the desoldering pump   i have added another step now initially this  piece that you see this was connected directly   through this black piece so it was heating  a lot so i have created another step i have   used this white high temperature pvc sheet and  then another metal piece brass piece in between   to create a further step for heat distribution  plus there is another final change which as you   can see is the brass tip that i made using my  lathe machine now the video was getting really   long so i didn't include the parts in between  but i have explained to you all of them in detail yeah it's working okay brilliant wow now it's working great once again cool and i have to desolder  these three points also because   for placing of the new capacitors i  will have to remove the remaining legs so guys here as you can see that i have covered  the joints with the high temperature sleeving   and it looks quite nice this time and guys i  also wanted to introduce you to a new member   of my workshop family this beautiful tool box  manufactured by build skill and i also like   the color combination it is so amazing  and as you can see that it opens quite   easily and it has five compartments with four  being medium compartment and one a really big   compartment the lower one and guys the best part  is that it is really strong it is made of steel   and it is quite big so it's very spacious for  all of my tools so guys if you want to buy it   link has already been provided in  the description you can check it out you

Channel: The Professor

Views: 713,551

Keywords: desoldering pump, battery charger, 12v, laptop charger, 14.4v, simple inventions, 3 inventions, great ideas, 3 ideas

Id: jUDy7bgJK4A

Length: 39min 1sec (2341 seconds)

Published: Sun Aug 15 2021