Do Not Throw Away your Car Starter Motor - 12v 200 Amp DC Motor Reuse DIY

hi guys this what you see is a car starter motor   and that's the gear that gets in contact with  the engine of the car and starts it it can   draw current up to 200 amperes depending upon  the thickness of engine oil usually it is 100   but in colder regions it is 200 and that's the  solenoid that pushes this gear upwards you see   it's coming up and down that electrically  happens with this so guys here i'm going   to show you the continuity 283 kilo ohms which  is negligible it should be even less than half   ohm yeah now it is mega ohm this shows that the  motor armature is dead now i'm going to show you   the continuity of the solenoid even the continuity  of solenoid is going to be higher than this one   yeah here as you can see the continuity of  solenoid is only 1.4 ohms less number of turns and   thick wire has been used here and even thicker on  the armature let's see the problem and open it up and then you are going to need an 8mm bolt opener that was easy that's the cap it's really rusty  keeping it aside i have a lock that's how to add a spring before  taking it all off also open this   bolt because the wire from the actual  motor is connected to the solenoid so the back cover is out at least and uh  the first thing to note is that there are   no bearings only bushes it's clear guys that  there is no damage to the commutators and they   are also uh healthy and uh the brushes too you  see they are not even worn out both of them are   live here as well as this one and uh and neither  are they broken now let's open it further to see   and find out where the fault is although as you  can see here that the brushes are really thick   obviously to carry huge current and feed it to  the armature now guys to take out the armature and   the rest of it i think i will have to open up the  solenoid so guys your hidden question for today is   which transistor did i use for the demonstration  of the inverter in my previous video on breadboard so that's the solenoid finally it's out that's the top case now let's take off the  armature as well and the field yeah it's like this yeah it moves it like this oh  pretty cool right and look at this part where it   moves up it rotates to some degree because of  these lines i don't know why didn't they give   a simple up and down type of lock oh they also had  to like jam it with this like it's not moving now   the solenoid pushes it upwards like this and  then when the armature rotates like this sorry   like this it gets jammed if there wouldn't be any  threat like this it would be freely rotating and   that's the stopper at the top without this it's  gonna come out and that's your armature winding   super thick copper wires have been used and  very less number of turns i think only one turn   so it's wrong to say turns only one turn per  pole although there are too many commutations   so the number of poles are so many but  the number of tones per pole is just one now guys after close inspection as i think i  found out the problem there is no problem with   this armature roto but there's problem  with the stator winding first of all   this motor has been repaired previously because  we can see here black tape placed by a bad   repair person there's another problem that he  pressed the winding towards the wall so much   that the end point from this pool this one is  under a short circuit with this one there is   no gap left in between the two so they are  both contacting and creating a dead point   for this pole so it will not activate and the  current is just going to flow from this part   to this part and hence the motor is not  going to run plus pretty bad points here   all winding fully open so i will have to  improve upon all that to get it started this guy's finally the bad insulation was removed  and i'm going to replace it with the proper one i also have to separate these two so so the stator repairing part is  complete let's start with the checking   one terminal is this one the other one is this  and here we can see that the winding resistance is   only 0.8 ohms obviously because these are copper  and very thick so they can carry huge currents   and hence low resistance and there is one  more important check is to see if there is any   connectivity between any of these two terminals  and outside the body of the starter motor if any   of the two wires is in contact with this it's  going to create short circuit and battery damage here as you can see that it's showing resistance   in mega ohms so we are good  there is negligible connectivity well i could not achieve enough temperature with  the soldering iron so i had to use butane gas   and now it is pretty strong cool so let's   assemble it back again and i will  also have to remove this clip yeah now it seems fine the springs of the brush are so tight it is really   difficult to hold them back and  then place them on the commutator so so finally it is assembled back as before it's time  to test it well guys i tried to run this motor   with my 7h ups battery it didn't even move there  there was only sparking so finally i thought that   i need a bigger battery now let's connect this  amaron battery i think it should work now okay one wire done okay now all i have to do is connect this terminal   to the body of this motor now just  like a car alternator the body of   this starter motor is also one terminal  and positive is like here okay starting it it's not running let's see if the battery is okay  at least yeah valve is glowing okay now so guys as you saw that i gave it so much try  but uh then i had to open it up once more and   finally i found another major problem in between  the rotor winding and the commutators here as you   can see that the copper wires from the winding  of the rotor are coming here and adjoining at   every single commutator one for each but in  some parts you will see little gap like this   one you see and uh similarly others so what i'm  going to do is i'm going to do resistance check   so now i'm going to do the commutation check  this is one bar and the one next to it is another   so placing one on the first and then on the second   here as you can see that it's one ohm let's  move on to the other one this and this it's 0.9   almost same again on the other and you  see that this one is in kilo ohms so   it's like there is no winding contact in between  these two it's open let's come on the next one 1.1 1.2 it's a minor failure but still it is  available 8.4 ohms a little higher failure but   not a major one but it is there so needs repairing  in reality each of them should be at 0.9 ohms so   seems like the bars have been desoldered from  here and this is creating a problem for the rotor   so i will have to solder them back again  oh guys finally i've understood the   full problem this dc motor starter motor faced  actually if you look closely at the commutator   this part or this surface it looks like it was  rubbed on some surface you see because of which   these computator bars stretched to this side and  this side according to the motion of the motor   at some points it is even making contact with the  commutator next to it you see and there are lines   of it being rubbed against some part of the motor  so because of that super high friction was created   and these solder points melted and because uh  the motor was rotating at a very high rpm so   uh the melted solder moved outwards because of the  centrifugal force and it got automatically removed   and why it happened because when i opened up this  starter motor there was no metal ball here because   of which this rotor was little more downwards and  hence it was getting in contact with the base side   of the motor casing because of that little  ball it would have been at a little gap with   the base so the removal of this small ball caused  so much problem it's quite easy to understand now   so here i'm creating space between the commutators  with the help of my razor something like this   and i will do it on on all those where i see  that they are getting close to the other one and   until the the resistance of each  commutator next to it becomes equal now while applying the solder make sure  that you do not connect the two different   commutators together because then it will  create the shortest path for the current flow   and uh the current is not going to flow  through the winding but the commutators   themselves and creating another problem for  your motor so that's one commutator the hit   the or the one that you can see and then  that's the other one and this joint uh the slot   is not to be soldered these are two different  commutators so let's apply flux accordingly so let's show you the soldering first and then  i will do it myself so that's the first slot   that i'm going to do keep it held over  here for some time okay one seems done   so this is how you are going to do  it on each one now the second one   now you see this one is coming on the third one  creating a short circuit so i have to remove it   so after soldering these points it looks  something like this and at some points the   soldering jump from this computer to this one also  and i had to separate it with the help of my razor   and after checking it it seems fine and now  the resistance of each bar is almost 0.8 ohms   so guys for the closing part you see here okay  you have to place the spring like this and then   the lock and it's done you see if i  push it it is going upwards a little bit that will be done with this little ball from  an old bearing which was missing in this   because of which the entire piece got damaged  see there is a groove given for the ball this much is done now let's  complete the rest of it so guys after completing all the assembly  once again i'm going to test it and here   i've also placed this 12 volts bulb to check the  connectivity so when i connect one wire of the   motor to the battery the bulb is glowing which  means that the connection has been established   perfectly now finally it's time to do the test  if it runs or not okay oh the wire came out ah the spark was really heavy because the  motor is obviously high current type once again sorry it's really heavy okay it's running it's running pretty good  right very smooth i'm so happy that i finally   like repaired it it had so many faults in  the commutator in the uh in the rotor uh   rotor for the parts plus your   field winding everything was uh it was like the  motor was completely irreparable it was really   difficult it was a really difficult job but now  that i have done it it feels so good once again oh the wires are right now red hot  i never had a car in the car start a   motor all i had was bike starter motors  i never bought it although i could have   because they use huge current uh which makes  them not much usable for projects like e-bike   i saw some videos on people making e-bikes with  a starter motor they take so huge current that it   is just foolish to make e-bikes or go-karts with  the car starter motor the better way is to convert   car alternator into a dc bldc motor and then use  it instead of going through the car starter motor   200 amps it's going to kill your battery and it is  not designed to be used for such longer durations   i don't know why they do it i  think it's just for sure anyways well uh uh what i'm going to use this for is  uh usually load testing let's say i've made uh   like buck convert a high current buck convert i  can test this motor to uh to get an estimate of   what kind of loads it can run or if it can  handle huge loads like that okay once again whenever i connect the wire  i uh i get really scared   i'm enjoying it so much so anyways guys i believe  you people learned how uh to repair starter motor   and what kind of faults we can find in a in a  car starter motor i think this motor has covered   all types of faults almost all types of faults  except for the solenoid solenoid was perfectly   fine so thank you so much for watching this video  hit like don't forget to share and subscribe   and uh if you have any queries you  can always ask them in comments

Channel: Mr Electron

Views: 186,847

Keywords: mr electron, electric, motor, electrical, volts, current, make, diy, watts, electric motor, motor volts, starter motor, car starter motor, dc motor, 12v, 12v motor, 12v starter motor, 200 amps, 200 amp, starter motor reuse, reuse, old motor reuse, do not throw, do not throw away, starter motor repair, starter motor go kart, starter motor e bike, starter motor bicycle, starter motor connection, diy motor, do not thow away, never throw away, 12v dc motor, car motor

Id: JP_IPmE1W7U

Length: 23min 31sec (1411 seconds)

Published: Tue Feb 02 2021