DM3 Guide - Derail Valley Simulator

hi guys school here and welcome to another derail Valley simulator video in this video we're going to be looking at one of the new locomotives in Duro Valley simulator namely the dm3 which is this in front of us here this is a diesel mechanical locomotive and is one of the first ones that you'll probably find yourself buying and unlocking after the de2 it's a little bit Hands-On which also makes it very interesting to drive so let's get started so the dm3 as I've already said is a diesel mechanical Loco now what that means is it uses a diesel engine to generate rotational power and it transmits this power via fluid coupling to a gearbox which in turn then drives the wheels now that the fluid coupling in the dm3 is not like the torque converter in the dh4 it's much more direct and for that reason unlike the dh4 it is possible to stall the engine in this dm3 now with the dm3 you have to manually select the gear and if the gear is too high and the RPM Falls low enough you'll stall the engine so it's kind of like a car or a truck in that you must manually change through the sequence of gears when you're increasing speed and then manually shift down through the gears when slowing down being careful of course not to select a lower gear too quickly because you will throw the RPMs to the roof and you will blow the engine and maybe I'll show you that first of all let's get inside the cab and I will show you around the control a little bit dark in here so we're going to get my Lantern out on the back wall not much going on uh obviously the texturing is just rather exquisitely Rusty I do love this it's so authentic we have the handbrake here and we have doors on either side obviously a space for documents are not much use to us today uh we'll just put our Lantern down there a second and then I can show you that this window does in fact open and of course you can stick your hand out the window whilst you're driving annoyed to hear that that doesn't squeak but hey ho we can't have it all right so up on the top panel here this is where you'll find all the switches and dials that you'll need this is also where the effectively the breaker is this is one of the very old local very simple this one in its design but up on the top panel there you've got the oil level on the left you've got the brake pipe pressure in the middle which I'm sure you're used to by now with the brake pipes and of course the main reservoir on the right down here we have and I'll discuss this more in detail when we get into this we've got the oil temperature we've got the tachometer which shows you the engine RPM we have the sand level down the bottom there on the left and then we have the speedometer over here the lights are here we'll go through these they're not quite like any of the locomotive they're a little bit different but I'll explain them up on the top panel this is where your electrics are your electrics for General Electric switch breaker your starter and then this is your actual starter switch it looks just like that one but this is the thing that actually starts the locomotive then you have obviously lights for sander and when you're applying sand and the wheel slip and then down here you have the various lights the dash lights cab lights and the wipers which I'll also explain now briefly um the controls that you see here when you want to stop the vehicle or turn it off I should say the fuel cutoff is the thing that you need to pull there that is the sander when you want to apply sand there is the horn then over on the left here you have an engine brake which we'll cover shortly it has an engine brake on it the reverser and throttle then you have the independent brake over here train brake is there okay and then the gearbox which we will cover in more detail well that's going to start it first and then you can hear it so the way you start this is you flick the electric switch flick the starter switch you are now ready to start so then hold the start button in and you'll see tachometer coming up people to fall back down to its idling position the main reservoir is now being filled by the compressor and that's applying brake pressure down the pipe all temperature will slightly start to rise as the engine warms up so it's a nice little opportunity we'll put the dash lights on and the cab light on that gives me a nice opportunity to show the wipers and then I'll show the lights the wipers are kind of interesting they have a few States so obviously you've got position one which is a long intermittent wiper it should go off in a second you see it's quite a long then you've got position two which is a uh when it settles down is a short intermission wiper and then of course if you want continuous operation you put both switches on so it's kind of like a three-state two switch kind of deal that's how it works okay let me make it night time and then I'll show you how the lights work right now this if you didn't know how this works this can get really confusing this is nothing like any of the local locomotive in the when lights work so first of all the thing to understand is the top set of switches are the lights type front and right front and rear so this is the front and this is the rear this tells the system if you like how to what kind of light operation you want in its default state which is actually kind of wrong in its default State we'll do the front lights first so if you leave the type where it is and then you operate the first switch down here what you'll find is you get a kind of a day running light Okay jump back in the camp and now we'll put on lights two and we'll jump back outside and you can see now we've got a really strong headlights and then if we stay here and we then operate the lights type you'll see what happens it goes to red at first this can be deeply confusing um but what's actually happening is you're basically saying whether you want the front lights to be in a kind of a white light position or a red light position when it's down it's in a white light position and you can actually have two different headlights like that and you can have just a side light you can have it totally off or you can have like a ditch beam so high beam dips beam running lights and that is what you get for the white lights if you flick the switch so you just flick the type switch like this it then goes into a an equivalence but for the red light so two switches on would then give you quite a bright red light but if you only have one of them turned on you get a sort of a a day night light if you see anything like a marker light okay so I haven't explained that let me just turn that off a second we'll turn those lights off let's look at the rear lights okay so in their current position by default if we flick that on you would expect it to have a red light because it's at the back but you don't you get a white light which is just a little bit confusing so actually what you want for normal operation driving forward you actually want that down and that one up so that will be in white position that will be in red position so think of it as up for red down for white and then the usual thing of one or two positions basically says this is how bright I want it so this actually has some interesting properties because if you flick on all of these lights here like that will end up with a strong front light a strong front white lights and a strong red brake light but we can actually flick that down and end up with a strong white light in both directions which is actually very useful when you're doing shunting work but a normal sort of situations what you'll actually want is this down for why it's that up for red and then just however bright you want it that's how the light works I hope that made sense it takes a little bit of getting used to okay I made it Daylight again so let's talk about the gears let's do that first so what you've got you've got a gearbox a and a gearbox B and think of this as like well there's three positions on it as you can see each lever has three positions and this kind of gives you nine combinations three times three gears you would perhaps naturally think this is the lowest gear and it is but then you think well which is the next Gear Well the next gear happens when you go to that position and then you think well what's the next gear after that is it this no it's actually not I'll go through the sequence with you and hopefully it'll make sense towards the end but because I've said before the engine is more directly connected to the gearbox um you can actually get as have you ever driven an automatic car and you get that kind of engine transmission creep you get that in this so let's start off by disconnecting the brakes so we'll release all the brakes and you'll see our brake pipe the pressure is now up and our brakes are off so watch what happens when I engage so I'm going to just stay in that position watch what happens if I put the reverse into forward I haven't touched the gears so now you've basically connected the gearbox to the engine via the transmission fluid and you've got this kind of creep which is what you get in automatic cars when you uh you let go the brake and without applying any throttle you get this kind of basic creeping effect and you get that in this vehicle so how do we actually move forward let me just apply the brakes a second because I need to explain to you some stuff around the RPM so here is the tachometer this is showing you what the engine RPMs are the important thing to give to uh consider is is kind of low idle position which is here around about 22 it's about 2400 RPM something like that 24 25 probably 24 let's say 25 2500 rpm would be the idle position so if the engine RPMs come down let's say when you're climb in a hill they come down and start to reach this idle position you need to change down a gear because you're now going to start laboring the engine any lower than this and you've got perhaps stall equally when the engine RPMs go up to the red line here when they get near the red line that's when you need to change up again now the added complexity and fun of this locomotive is that whenever you change gear you need some back off on the throttle otherwise you may damage the gearbox so let's have a go and put that all into action and I'll tell you as well what the sequence of Gears is that you want to change through okay so it goes something like this make sure you are in low gear so both legay levers are in the low position you can then put the reverser into forward assuming you're going forward and release the brake you'll you'll see the whole thing will start to creep then we're going to apply the throttle and when it gets to 100 we're going to change gear the gear sequence if this is position one and that's position one this is now when a 1-1 configuration so the next gear after this will be one two so I'm gonna go one one one two then I'll go two one two two and then after that it slightly changes so let's give it a go throttle up back off on the throttle back off on the throttle two one [Music] two two and then the gear after that then goes to three one then three two three and then finally three three so you can see it's a little bit Hands-On and also you have to be a little bit careful because the they show you something even if I'm idling if I choose the wrong gear you blow the gearbox not good right so I've spawned another dm3 back here and I've attached a nice load on it so we can try hauling it up this hill but just briefly to go through the gear sequence so it starts off one one and it goes to one two and it goes to two one and it goes to 2-2 and then it goes to three one and the way you do three one really should be go to three and then come back to one to three one then you've got three two now you might think the next one is three three but it's not it's actually two three and the way you go about that is to push that into three and pull that back to two and then finally you go three three as I said this particular logo is a little bit more Hands-On than the other ones however it is quite cheap to get a license and it's quite cheap to repair so if you do have a bit of a spill on it it's actually one of the cheapest locals in the game to get repaired so quite a lot of fun if you like that kind of thing but uh if this is a bit too involved the dh4 is probably the next best thing that you could try so let's try hauling this uh with releasing the brakes now we'll put the reverser into forward things will happen a lot more slowly now you can see it's starting to take the weight but it can't really go very far this time because it's holding a lot of stuff this time start to bring the revs up slowly there we go a little bit of wheel slip then you see it's happening a lot more slowly now this is how it would normally be getting too close to the red line so we're back off on the throttle and it's just like driving a manual truck or a car in the govern the throttle when you need to you change the gear and that's how you bring it up through the range now whenever you're putting stress on the fluid and the fluid connector as we are now you'll generate heat so when we're making the engine transmit its power through the gearbox we are going to generate heat and that heat needs to be managed of course so now we're on 2-2 the next stage is three one to let the revs build up a little bit so up on the three down on the one and just keep your eye on the rpns we're gonna start hitting this climb now the three one is three two so now you need to sort of consider as you hit the climb how are you going to manage the heat dissipation you don't want to over rev it at this point so you know I'd be thinking about just trying to hold the RPMs back off until you get a nice steady pace and just hold a reasonable speed up the hill all right so it really start to hit this slope now this is a lot of weight for this thing to hold RPMs are definitely coming back we're gonna have to change down how do we change down from three one we want to sorry from three two we want to go to three one so we're back from the throttle is that going to be enough because the next stage down is 2-2 we're starting to overheat and this is like being in the car when you're trying to sort of go down through the gears notice we're starting to overheat now what we're looking for is more torque so we are on the limit of what this thing can hold we've got a lot of weight behind us and look at the the problem here is the temperature in the uh fluid connector is rising too much so I'm going to back off on the throttle quite a lot otherwise you're going to overheat the engine what I might do is just go down to a uh a lower gear again so that's going to boil slip so that'll come to sand and we'll just let the engine take it I want to I backed off on the throttle just to stop the RPMs from going too high [Music] there you go notice the uh the stress on the fluids reduced so now we've got the situation where the engine temperature and the transmission fluid temperature are now dropping but that's not sustainable so we'd have to at some point just give it a little bit more throttle we're just looking to hold the throttle up a big climb this is a lot of weight for this locomotive and again you just need to uh to manage the two things that's basically how you do it so now let's take a look at the opposite let's drive it downhill and take a look at the dynamic braking I'm in the dm3 and I'm on a fairly Steep Hill I've got a lot of Steel behind me the brakes are currently fully applied now if you've watched my breaking video which I'm sure you have what I showed you in the diesel electric and Diesel hydraulic locomotives they use the system called self-lapped braking what that means is you move the lever to how much braking you want and it will then automatically maintain the pressure and the braking Force to apply that amount of braking in steam locomotives and in the dm3 we have what's called non-self-lapse braking and what that means is this lever here really has three positions it has the position here which is like a service position this is maintain the current status quo if you pull it towards you it will release some pressure and if you push it forward it will apply some pressure when you put it back in the middle it will hold that current position so let's take a look at how it works and we'll gradually release the brakes and start rolling down the hill and then we'll see something interesting right so I want you to pay attention to the red needle which if you remember from the breaking video is how much braking force is being applied uh to the brake shoes and hence the wheels I'm going to pull this lever back and you'll see the red needle starts to fall as we reduce the amount of braking pressure when we happy let's say let's get it down to uh two bars of pressure though we'll put the needle back in put the lever back in the middle position and you'll note that it holds that breaking force so now if we push the lever forward we can increase the braking pressure pull it back to the middle when we're happy it's different in how we manage brake pressure we don't move the lever to a certain position and we'll get that which braking Force instead what we have to do is pull the lever back to reduce the braking force and when we're it's at a level we want put it back to the middle position or latched position service position and it will hold that braking Force so let's release the brakes completely now and because the reverser is in the fully forward position we're not throttle at all what's going to happen is you're going to see the effect of the engine being more directly connected to the wheels via that uh fluid connector I told you about the fluid coupling so the wheels start to turn that in turn turns the gearbox the gearbox turns the fluid connector the fluid starts to revolve and hey Presto your engine RPMs start to rise fairly rapidly what do you need to do you better change gear if you don't change gear those engine RPMs will get quickly out of control and you will very quickly start to find yourself with a blown engine so keep your eye on the RPMs you can push this through the gears because the throttle's not being applied but if you don't do it you'll blow your engine let's take a look at the engine brake which is this thing here so with the throttle off reversal forward we can apply the engine brake and you'll hear a rumbling sound we're getting some wheel slip let's drop some sand now get a little bit too much so we're gonna have to actually apply some brake so we'll put some break on put it back to the middle position and what's going to happen is that is going to help us to keep the speed under control we're definitely getting wheels that we're gonna need some sand the amount of engine braking that we're getting is causing the wheels to to slip and obviously if the track is wet the problem will be even worse but if you don't use engine braking you're going to overheat those brakes very very quickly right now we've managed to get away if I can press the right key with only one bar or so of braking pressure being applied to the brakes constantly but without the engine brake we need a lot more how does the engine brake work well on this thing it works a bit like a truck if you ever seen a jake brake on an American Truck it's like that it's engine compression it's using engine compression it cuts cuts the uh the fuel going into the engine obviously and then the basic cylinder engine compression is transferred to the wheels and that has a braking effect on the wheels notes or also the engine temperature or sorry the transmission temperature will have tendency to rise because there's stress friction going through that fluid connector it's speed is getting a little bit out of control again is the as The Descent starts to pick up so increase a little bit of brake pressure to keep it under control but you've just got to watch you don't overheat those brakes they'll be doing that release some pressure again but you get the idea it's a lot more work let me turn that off it's a lot more work driving a dm3 than it has a dh4 that's for sure but it is a lot more fun and rewarding it is cheaper to get one and don't forget this sets you up for a steam train because the steam train is a lot of work to manage and it has non-self-lapping brakes as well and that is the dm3 in a nutshell a couple of small minor points to mention uh first of all you may notice down here this giant bar that runs across all three wheels uh the gearbox is connected at the back there as you can imagine and that ensures that bar just makes sure that it delivers power to all three of the wheels directly so effectively it has one big drive axle and then this bar that connects all six of the wheels together another thing is when you're actually operating this uh just make sure you keep that brake lever here don't uh don't be tempted to just leave it in the reverse or release position I should say that will cause some main brake pipe pressure to bleed always put it back into that middle position when you're done that's where it should be unless you're releasing or applying brakes leave it there and finally uh I did tell you about the sequence of Gears but there's nothing to stop you jumping through gears like when you're driving a car you know you can go from second to Fourth if you want to there's nothing to stop you equally you can go from you know fourth down to Second it's the same thing uh in a dm3 as long as you make sure that your engine RPMs are within that idle and red line range it's fine so for example I could jump to position one three and start to apply the throttle you know it's laboring slightly but it quickly recovers um and then from there I could they'll jump from like one three to say two two something like that I could back off from here then go two two go three two you can jump gears if you want to I just told you the official most efficient way of doing it but you'll find your own way of doing it anyway I hope you enjoyed that kind of uh quick look at the dm3 it's a lot of fun it's a lot more Hands-On if that's your thing it's also the one of the cheapest things to get after the de2 No Doubt the dh4 is easier to drive than this but like I say this is cheap to repair a very welcome Edition I would say to do a valley simulator that's it for this video guys if you enjoyed it please give me a thumbs up take care happy training

Channel: Squirrel

Views: 117,325

Keywords: simulator, gameplay, commentary, walkthrough, tutorial, asus

Id: FY6vYX3cmq4

Length: 26min 14sec (1574 seconds)

Published: Wed Jun 28 2023