Dewalt DW 733 SERVICE-replace rollers, blades, bearings, base plate etc.

good morning youtubers and welcome to my channel what I'm going to do today is to show you how to change your rollers your bearings and sort your blades out on this Dewalt DW 733 machine this is the UK version of the world's cleaner now the first thing I've done off camera is I've round this up as I can and I'm going to now remove the four bolts on top of the planer if you see I've taken the cable off which was wound around here I've just tightened it up a little bit inside that separates the outer casing from the wire we're going to be removing that so here we go removing whoops I dropped one moving the four bolts I like to keep myself a little plastic box or something to lose them more irritating than losing natural washer on the floor amongst the sawdust and have things you look for it there we go in the back of the DeWalt here there's a tool kit some blade knife gauges there's a small one of these Allen wrenches and a few other bits and bobs the allen wrench will undo this knot here so you undo this so you take the screw out there's a washer there and then there's this guide set a measurement guide and then this pulls off so keep those safe at this point you can grab the handles come astroturf so there's no need to take off the yellow plastic pieces as some people do and now you have access to what's underneath now the next thing I do replace the handle back on and I lift this up as high as I possibly can increasing the gap underneath the high this comes up the easier is going to be to service this turning it it comes all the way up at this point this clamping hand or is pressing up against the bottom of the handle so you can drop it down a bit and just keep turning you can't clamp it actually because if you clamp it then this won't move move it as much as you can see it's probably about the size and a go hey I get it as high as you can at this point you need to take the whole machine and turn it upside down so it's resting on these four posts and once you've done that then it's possible to start servicing the Machine and take out the rollers next step in this operation is find the site that has the on/off switch and you'll find a plastic covering and there are two screws to remove on either side these have a Phillips head so you just unscrew that it's one one on the other side [Music] the two screws put those in the box and then this plastic box should come straight up and you remove that and then you have access to the drive mechanism now the drive mechanism is driven by this cog here this one is attached to the motor what it does is it drives this feed roller on that side which has a chain attached to that spindle which drives the other one so the speed rollers are more or less moving in sync as they pull the the wood through now these are held in place by these clips here there's three clips and once you've undone those these come off now I suggest you get yourself a pair of these these are made by a UK company called faithful they do fairly good quality tools at a reasonable price and they have these little nibs on the end that engage in these rings here excuse me you can use your hand just to hold them in place expand the ring and then remove it and be careful you don't let that fly across the room there we go so when you pull them off you need to work equally on both sides just sliding them forward on both sides there we go and you can get one off and get the other off and then you can remove them and you do the same with this pin here just remove that and then this will come off in the same manner so I won't show you that but you understand how that's done at this point you can take the side-table off you just have to undo these just before you take it all the way out and the other one as well so once you take the knees out put your screws away carefully you can now get to the rollers without any problem now to remove the roller there are two retaining brackets here one each end however I couldn't undo it with a screwdriver they would simply too tight so I had to take a pair of vise grips I have a small pair here I just clamped it on the side of the screw and that enabled me to get enough torque to break them free and then use the screwdriver just to pull them out so the screws come out there are two retaining screws on either side I am right-handed so I'm afraid I don't agree in the way once they come out this bracket comes out you can see it's got a cut out there to go on the outside that's in case they've made them all the same but on the other side of the roller the spindle of the role of which protrudes through this so that this decided to build them all the same size and cost the same thing here to spring they're just peeking up I have a plastic box here which of the parts in so I don't lose them which is a good idea because there are quite a few parts so putting in those two retaining brackets there's one two three four screws and hold that in place now on the end of the roller on the shaft you have these bearings basically that just blocks the metal and I believe these were later replaced with plastic bearings that's all they are and you can see the bearing shaft here has some sort of oil on it some kind of grease I should say and that's all got to be cleaned off and I will be re greasing these and on this end there's the other bearing which he doesn't want to come off there we go now this bearing is no longer round I don't know whether it's possible to see that but the bearing the round part is still there and the bearing has worn itself out he's become oval right the way over to this side it's not so noticeable on that side although you can see it's gone out of round so that would allow that bearing to shift under pressure a couple of millimeters and I believe that's what the problem was the reason that this wasn't pushing the wood through was because the bearing was out of true had just worn out why that happened exactly I don't know I don't know if that's a lubrication problem or I'm really not sure what that what caused it but anyway that's why those need to be replaced now the rolls themselves this one is quite badly scored you can see it has these lines that run all the way around it presumably those are nails whether there's been nails in the wood I've got a lot of scratches on the plate which I'll show you later where the nails are distract across it under pressure and gouged into the steel base plate also if I put a steel ruler along there which I'll do for you you can see light running along there we go you can see it's kind of worn out in the middle quite a bit that's where most of the wear is there's a look at the other one it's a bit difficult to do this actually when you can see the light there shining underneath this one has a nasty gouge in it right there and the rubber is very hard I mean I assume the robberies are quite hard anyway but I decided at this point that I would get some new ones these are the new ones I got these online they are perfect the robber feels slightly more tacky as you might expect so this was just a judgement call I decided I'd get two more older since I was going to the all this trouble of replacing the bearings I don't know how worn out the spindles are on the old ones I didn't test those but I thought two new rollers new bearings no point in using new rollers with old bearings so replace all the bearings replace the rollers and I've got a newly sharpened pair of blades which I'm going to fit so I know the motor works well there doesn't seem to be any problem with the chains or any of the drive mechanism so ice I'm going to replace the plate which I'll show you at the end and this will be for all intents and purposes this would be like a brand new plane and should operate like a brand new planer and as long as the motor doesn't give out I should get years of service out of it much cheaper than buying a new one I have here four new bearings these are the wolf's original bearings these are the metal ones not the the plastic variety so the four Pitino's back on the shaft of the new rollers one of these old ones for second they need to be greased the grease that's on there seems to be like a gray sort of really hard to say actually it's not much of it there but it's some kind of grey grease however what I'm going to use with the new ones is I'm just going to use an automotive grease so this is wheel bearing grease and there's nothing wrong with this it has high anti wear properties it works well under high compression as all wheel bearing grease must so for this sort of situation that's absolutely fine because these rollers turn quite slowly there is some compression but nothing sort of comparable to the weight of a car on a bearing or something like that so I think that'll be absolutely fine there's no need to spend a lot of money on anything expensive okay so I'm going to put the roller back so I've got everything I need close to hand I've got latex gloves on which I recommend and I have my grease gun here which has the new grease it's been primed and all the old grease that was in the tube here it's being removed and what I'm going to do a little bit of grease on the spindle just work that round with my finger just cover the metal so it's protected I'll do that both ends this point I'm only going to do this part of the spend office that's where the bearing goes look at the other part later the smooth smooth it on covered you could use a brush of course at this point you have to take note of the orientation of the roller and the short spindle goes on the side where the belt here is the drive side from the motor to the blades just be aware of that at this point what I'm going to do is to get a little bit of grease onto a q-tip it's probably a bit too much and I'm going to put some of that in each of the bearings I'm just working with two at the moment so we've got some nice grease in there try to keep it inside the bearing and not all over the outside make sure it's covered okay so I won't put this down stupid dusty here so what I'll do with that is I was put it directly there we go on sir there it's quite a bit of squeeze out there doing the same with this this one I don't really need a lot I mean there's only so much room for the grease to sort of exist inside the bearings these are very close tolerances grease that's on the outside of the bearing isn't really helping more likely to attract dust and sort of sawdust wasn't anything else but anyway just get rid of the excess grease okay so that a way or or use it somewhere else then you have to replace your Springs they can go in either way it doesn't matter the two Springs back in their retaining halls place your role or carefully know the blocks go in one way if they're going that way there's too much to lose they're too loose so you put it in that way so the widest part of the block is up and down do that both ends there we go and that's the roller greased and replaced if you take the two screws they should be long enough to reach the holes without compressing the bearing at this point just get them started yeah at the other end place the other bracket on the UK machine or for the brackets are identical I've seen on some machines that they are slightly different some have a slotted hole for adjustment but these down they don't seem to need it so just drop your screw in get some of the thread started okay so brackets are in place the roller and the bearings are in the right position and then it's just a question of tightening down the bracket which I do uniformly there's not stress or strain anything a bit of a turn at a time and then these will seat themselves the brackets will suit themselves against them metal worth of the frame here at which point this is already this is fitted now this point before you put the cogs on you start adding the chains the roller is free to move so you can just give it a few turns just to bed down that grease if you want to you can just remove any excess grease here which wouldn't be a bad idea simply because there will be sawdust flying around at some point you don't really want to get a little stuck place there so that's well greased I think that's great and now you do the same thing on the other side I'm not gonna video that it's exactly the same process okay at this point we've got both rollers installed you can see they move I wouldn't say they move easily they're under some tension but that's fine you don't want them to be loose they don't move sideways in any way so that's perfect these being new are going to restore the machine quite beautifully I'm sure this was all done working through the front so there isn't really any need to remove the other feed table one free table is fine so I recommend doing it this way at the moment I'm preparing this chains and the sprockets and so on to go back onto the machine so I'm just beginning by removing the old grease that doesn't really help us very much I'm going to put some new grease on there not that these are moving parts are such it just helps get the chains on and off get the cogs on and off while the sprockets there's a bit of a clean a little bit better so just getting a little bit of grease on my q-tip I'm just going to run a little bit around the inside of these sprockets that will enable me to use them back on now there's only one way that these can go back on actually although if you didn't make a note of it when you took them apart it's easy to get a little bit confused so I'm putting a little bit of grease on here as well now this contacts here so a little bit of grease around there this bearing goes on here so you want to put that on first so you don't forget okay also going to put a little bit of grease around there because the sprocket or the cog rubs against this edge of the bearing and there was a little contoured sort of fridge but ruin around that bearing just wanting to make contact so when you put them on it seems slightly counterintuitive but you put the sleeve part on first I would want to put them on this way but you put them this way so the first thing you do is you put the one connecting the motor to the right hand roller now the best way to do this since there's not a lot of room is to try to do them at the same time so what I do is I line up the motor tooth there's a tooth on this cog which lines up with the shaft of the motor get that on there first just a little way and then you have to roll the roller to engage any teeth or the tooth onto there and when you've got them both started and you can seat them back without any problem and you can see there's the space there for that retaining clip so pretty much the same thing there's less clearance with this one we have two rollers that can move so I just start by aligning one I'll do the one furthest away from me just get the tooth in just a little ways just to start it what's that slid on quite a lot and then to have to try to do the same thing on this side just bit it with you know a bit of a bind this is the hardest part there we go you're going to have to arrange the roller to suit where the tooth is because you can't turn this because it's all connected to the motor which isn't going to turn there we go so once you've got those on push them home there we go now finally we have to put the retaining clips on so you need to engage the prongs into the holes on the ring push it all the way home and what this does is it opens the ring up so that you can fit it it's very easy for these things to go flying across the room so have a finger or two ready in case that happens so place it in position open it up and try to get it into the groove you might have to push it around a bit there we go you can see when it's fully seated you do the same with the other it's not quite as much room it seems for over there I'm going to have to jiggle around this spring we've got a post here and a post there so it might be necessary to do this sort of vertically I'm not sure maybe from low down let's see how it works that might be better there is an offset here which helps you get around these sorts of things it's quite useful you have your fingers ready it's not slotted in yet when I got it as I suspected this one's going to be a bit tight yeah that's seated if it wasn't I couldn't pull it wasn't seated I would be able to pull this off or let's move it forward a bit so there we go that one's in meiosis you see tit on the tool I've got that on and I push it back with a screwdriver there we go and you can hear that clipping in I'm going to use the wd-40 anti friction dry PTFE it does show a picture of a chain here I don't know whether that's supposed to be a bicycle chain or not but I don't think it matters these are not moving very fast as I said so get a good coating on do it wipe off any overspill this will dry anyway so it doesn't leave an oily residue right so now I'm replacing this cover it just slides down it engages in two slots at the bottom once that's engaged there's a place for two screws on either side which are these two just run that down I'm not tightening it dish yet just running it down and then the other one on the other side do the other side I want to show you here the outfeed table infeed and outfeed table that's quite dusty one underneath where the rollers push the wood down onto its quite badly damaged it's got some very bad pits here and these enormous scratch marks that run all the way across they start out here on the outfeed table run all the way see come out the other side I'm not that worried about the ones on the outside tables but underneath there I'm actually gonna replace that table because I don't want anything that's going to interfere with the passage of the wood I want the wood to slide through nice and smooth with no obstructions no catching those snagging so I get the best possible planing job I can get now these are still available I bought one from a do alt supplier also it doesn't sit flush it's a bouncing around but it seems to have been distorted so this must have been done by somebody planing wood with screws sticking out and goodness knows what I mean why you would do that I don't know it's the death to the blades and you couldn't possibly get anything like a good cut well I got a feeling I did buy this used and I got a feeling it was probably used on a building site or something where they weren't particularly fussy they just needed to plane down some construction lumber and hurry so it's been used and abused but with the new rollers a new table here our new bearings and her lubrication I believe it will be as good as new I'm going to remove these four screws yeah came out easily screwdriver slightly too long to completely put the screw is safely away alright I couldn't undo that one earlier so if you have a screw that's difficult to remove get yourself a pair of vise grips just using a small set and adjust it so that it will lock on tightly exercise like so and then it will break free try the one at the back as well okay then once you go to start it then you can switch back a screwdriver there's not a lot of room under here so you may have to we've selected with your tools okay once you've done that these two brackets come off which straight is engaged into these two brackets and then this comes off I haven't seen this myself yet okay so what we have here is an aluminium cast plate so suck extreme precision round to give us a nice flat surface don't fully understand why go to all that trouble and then put something like this on the top which is um flimsy and bent anyway I decided to replace this I spent about thirty pounds which wasn't particularly cheap has given me this brand new one thing I noticed about this you said it's covered in a protective plastic nice blue plastic doesn't have to come off so clean this up I took a piece of sandpaper I just round it down the grooves here am I decided some accumulation will look like a bit of corrosion and various deposits over the years plastic off weirdly enough there are a few scratches on the place it happens very small half and while she's in the shop and stores a little bit on the front there so this is going back this should provide a nice slick surface I can see it fits absolutely flat there's no movement there at all as opposed to the other one which was bouncing all over the place so I'm going to screw that back and that should provide a superb surface for the wood to go through just like a new planer so I'm just cleaning the bracket here getting rid of any anything that might get in the way what this actually does is it keeps this down onto the plate up onto the table of the planer it also guides any wood that's coming along it has these buffers here which sort of move it into the area of cut if these weren't here the wood could sort of roll off to the side I wouldn't be cut to get jammed so they serve two purposes so they go like like that there's two small tongues that engage in there let's stick out from the plate and then we just put those screws back that I took out they just go back in their holes okay a bit difficult to do this on camera you get the idea so you put those in put all four rows in I'll be using this mostly for sort of cabinet making and carpentry I've got some gates to build it's not going to be subject to any bad timber it's going to do damage I also have one of those metal detectors so if I'm using wood punch resurfacing or reshaping or resizing any wood that's not new which I do quite often I use the metal detector to be absolutely sure there's no nails or anything in the top of this once you hit the nail you take a chip out of both blades and in line with the nail and forever after unless you sharpen your blades you end up with the sort of groove well it's not a groove actually it's a slight lift where the wood is not being cut down to the right size because the tip of the blade is missing so anyway on try to keep your wood pure when you push it through here in order to get the cover back on you need to wind it down otherwise the cover won't fit it will catch on the top of the motor so you can do that what I was just first there it's just to give the these pillars and the thread some dried PPF me just to help lubricate it because they they do need it and then stop lying here it down quite easily now I'm replacing the cover as you can see I didn't take the yellow plastic side panels off it's not necessary when you replace it to make sure you get the hole for the handle on the on the proper side if any which side you're standing of course there's this recess here for the crank so you can see where it goes the plastic sides into the groove and then I can see already that these screw holes are perfectly lined up it's nice to see all going back together truly very nice bought this from a boot sale it was a little bit iffy and I think that's largely because of that bearing although at the time I didn't realize I was sitting about what the role as I was trying to clean them and I used various rubber improvers like rubbery new and this and that and none of it worked it was only one I took it apart so I could have a good look at the rollers did I realize that in fact it was the bearing and that the role of a pretty bad anyway now you might think I could have done just the bearings and not worried about the rollers and you might be right but I just wanted to get it all done you know so the handle has a step in it which corresponds to the step on the shower push that on next go is this sort of pressure washer it's designed to do a little bit of clearance so you can turn this but also hold it firmly we need it and then I couldn't find the washer that was supposed to be on there but I found one in my own supply that's about the right size and seems to work okay so you put the bolt and tighten that down what happens is the bolt bottoms out tightens like that that little spring is a little bit of clearance that spring washer I was showing you underneath here so this can be pushed down and turned and then when you set it the way you want it it just comes up and is held by friction so I mean you don't even have to push it down you can just turn it so it's free but it's very stiff to setting your depth of cut now the last part of this video I'm going to replace the blades with with sharpened new blades the old blades will go off to be sharpened so there's a little allen wrench in the tool kit at the back here which is good for this not for this bolt thing yeah so you take that out put somewhere safe any other one out which point you can lift this whole piece out that reveals the blaze you can see them here now on the right hand side it's a little piece of metal here like a little lever it's a locking lever what it does is if you push it forward from the top it engages in this blade cylinder it stops it from moving it kind of keeps it still at which point you can take this tool which is also in the toolkit and use it to undo the nuts that are on the bottom this blade in place all right at this point you can take them out there we go and this is design has these little Springs here that's there for a reason that helps keep this blade in position while you set it and now you should be able to take the blade out might want to release the catch maybe him just turn it slightly stuck a little piece of wood here which I think all lizard laid off have you take your blade out looking along the edge and I can see in two places I can see it here and here with bladers hits and nails this point I'm just giving everything a wipe down with acetone and a piece of paper tissue paper well along there surface rust that sat there that's coming out with the acetone so after a few minutes of cleaning with the acetone this is all clean now so that's ready to take the new blade so I managed to get all that off the back there so it's running good shape I've got to the point now where I'm going to put the blades back to do this you'll need the plate covers your two knife gauges a spanner this one came with the machine and the tool kit just like a 10 mil and an 8 mil to start with four of the bolts in my case I've got a new set of blades which I just purchased I sent the other ones off to be sharpened so I've got two sets so it's this one when this one needs replacing and they get dull or damaged possibly I'll put the ones that are sharpened back in the machine and send these off for sharpening so avoids got 2 pairs so I can always have sharp blades in the machine so first thing I'm going to do is to open the new pledge they came from a place called Woodford Toulon calm there was an eBay purchase over 28 pounds you can't get these sorts of things cheaper from China I read the reviews and they said that they took up to six weeks to deliver so obviously that's not suitable while I'm making a video so scored along the package on the backside of the blades where there won't be any damage done to the blade itself these blades are covered in oil it seems like a thin layer of oil stop them rusting in the packet and they've been put together with the backs of the blades touching so at this point you must be very careful not to damage your blades so the first thing you need to do is to take your spring-loaded blade cap or blade cover and we need to get that temporarily installed on the cutter cylinder for that you'll need two bolts so just line it up and put two bolts one at each end just lightly you don't need to push them in all the way and what that does is it holds it in place but also enables it to lift up and down so you can get the blade in now next thing is to tip tip it back take your newly sharpened blade and carefully slide it between the Cotter cylinder and the blade cover okay so will you lift up this side of it okay and what happen is the slots on either end the open slots will engage with the two nuts and you'll notice that it's from loaded here that's the way it's supposed to be now the next step is to take your gauges that called knife gauges or cutter gauges and you're going to apply it to the blade and it's going to sit on this part of the silk they've cut a cylinder and you'll see that it's contoured before that now you've got a magnet here that contacts the top of this part of this cylinder and then it's stepped right here not at 90 degrees a little bit more than 90 degrees but there's a flat surface here and then it's the curved surface which corresponds to the curved surface here what you need to do is to get this step against the back edge here the flat edge where the other plane blade will be attached put it right there this bit here will hog will hug this and then the other part the front part will provide the correct relief of the blade because it will actually hold it in place and you need to do one each end you're gonna have to hold this down by hand I'll do the left-hand side first hold it down by hand until you get this bit fitted that one's right switch hands and do the other side so just double-check that the back of the knife gauge is firmly seated against the back edge that's the tricky bit that's not actually very clear in the instructions that it's seated properly and for that you can just depress the blade slightly when it's seated properly that's blade and the spring tension will come up and rest against the front edge of the knife gage is just slightly underneath it but that's what it needs to be now very carefully if you can wind them in by hand a bit more and do so just wind those bolts in being very careful not to dislodge I have a go just don't dislodge the knife gage at this point I'm just gonna recheck because there may have been some compression of the blade they may have compressed it onto the cylinder a little bit so just double-check make sure everything's the way it should be which it is it hasn't moved and then take your spoutin huh don't take the largest of the two ends just easy don't overdo it don't knock the knife gages against the body of the planer here is that was shift everything just turn this around a little bit gently snug it up okay so this one's very tight now go back to this one hand tightening them okay at this point just double-check that the gauge is exactly suited where it should be which it is and you can remove the gauges and those two bolts that will hold the blade where it needs to be now the next thing you need to do is to lock the blade there okay so this locking leaver has gone into play it's just drop down and you can see the bolts that have yet to be installed so the next thing then is to take your bolts just running each one in hand tight and then with this other tool that should be in your tool kit it supposed to be a ten mil wrench we just tighten these down once again don't just tighten them all one don't tighten each one why not it's hard him just work your way along I'm just snugging these out I'm sort of talking them by hand just to get them was it done that one go back a bit tighter doing every other one at this point okay now we've worked my way along final time not too tight but certainly don't come undone obviously okay you can release this and then that is one blade installed and the next thing you have to do is to turn this through 180 degrees and repeat the process you can see now I've got both blades and snort there's one there turn around there's the other one so they're in now that's basically all you have to do to replace the blades and then you have to reinstall the cover here which is your tool kit it also provides a downdraft from the motor to blow the chippings away one last thing you might want to consider is if you wish to clean this out more effectively and more thoroughly you can under the top here don't lose your screws and the reason I'm doing this is because I can see there's lots of wood dust all kinds of weird stuff a lot of what this green I have no idea what that is so I'm gonna get rid of it all so therefore Phillips screws with washers that need to be removed oh yeah just see like this I don't know again I don't know what that was um so basically I just want to clean all this out stuff I'm gonna put that in the bin so I've given that a clean I don't think it was glue I think what's happened here is that this foam had been glued on at some point and the ADIZ if it just sort of spilled out wasn't done very well so it looked like it'd been glued it was just stuck haven't been taken off before so replacing it to put the four screws back and I think you're good to go everything's clean again there we go so just put the screws back the way you took them out so the last thing that is needed to be done here is to replace this cover this has the tool kit on it you can see there's some foam here around here which compresses against this and the underside of the motor to seal it Wyatt is probably in the way let's push that out of the way there we go now this is what a properly kitted out toolkit should look like you have the long right angle wrench for the blade this starting spanner here to get the blades to the two screws I've showed you started then there's one whose allen keys here that key just so happens to fit the two bolts needed to put this tray back something I think what I'll do is I'll just engage it in here first that's better I'll get my fingers in there got started and this one on the other side same thing over here the cable the sheath on this cable has broken off and I've noticed around here where those two this retaining clip is also broken so at this point since this is inside the machine it's not going to come into any contact I'm just going to wrap insulation tape around it it probably would be better to have replaced it but at this point I'm not going to do that and maybe a job for another time so basically that's it that's how you set up your planer that's how you replace the rollers replace the bearings replace the blades there's not much else you can really do except possibly replacing the bearings on the cutters on the cutter head assembly but I don't believe this machine needs that they seem to be ok there's no movement and they turn quietly so for now that's the end of this video I hope you've enjoyed it and I hope you've learned something and please subscribe and help this channel grow and leave a comment I can help you possibly and thumbs up for always helps increase the traffic thanks again thank you for watching you

Channel: denbydish

Views: 40,061

Keywords: thickness planer, Dewalt thinkness planer, Replace blades, replace bearings, replace rollers, blade allignment, adjust blades, cutter block, repair Dewalt thickness planer, Dewalt 733, Service Dewalt DW 733, Dewalt DW 733 set up, Dewalt DW 733 replace roller bearings, step by step service Dewalt DW 733

Id: g_d1GvwmTjE

Length: 60min 9sec (3609 seconds)

Published: Sun Jan 20 2019