The video I wish I watched before buying a Shelix

hey everyone i'm ben and you're watching the snekker show and in case you're having any deja vu right now yes i already did this same video with the same title and the same topic this is a remake in case you're having any deja vu right now yes i already did this same video with the same title and the same topic this is a remake the reason i'm doing a remake is because a couple weeks ago i was watching the total recall remake on tv and i got to thinking you know i also lack creativity and talent so how about instead of coming up with a new idea i just take an old one that was successful and i redo it instant win right actually the difference between this and the the total recall remake is that this version is going to be better than the original see the truth is the first one got a lot more views than i expected and had i known it was going to be so popular i might have put a little bit more work into it so i'm going to add some stuff to this video and try to make it a worthwhile watch even if you did see the original i'm going to cover the same topics as the original but add in some new content covering not only the difference in the undersize and oem size cutter heads but also noise level changes and power draw differences we're actually going to test the power draw differences so i have here the original shelix cutter head that my wife got me for christmas in 2019 because she's awesome and i put this on a wish list with a bunch of other things and she picked this out because i'm always complaining about how much tear out i was getting on on figured pieces of wood you know sometimes the grain is a little complicated it'll go up and down in the same piece of the same piece of wood and the straight knives are really tearing stuff out so i wanted to upgrade to this guy and also i just hate changing straight knives when they get nicked so i have the same planer that was used in the original video and the challenge right now is that if i want to do some actual side-by-side comparisons there's really only one way to do that and i gotta say this was a little bit painful but since uh everyone was kind enough to watch my my first version of this and support the channel i decided to pick up a second one of these so we can do some actual side-by-side comparisons and hopefully by the end of this video you'll be able to make a good educated purchase decision if you're thinking about buying one of these guys first for the benefit of anybody who hasn't seen the shelix cutter head before or who hasn't seen the inside of one of these planers we're going to pop the tops off and take a look get this open you just got to pull your wrench out of the top cover and loosen up these four screws and then this just comes right off and then next you have these three red screws holding down the the dust port dust cover whatever that's called guides the dust from the blade out through the the extraction port on the back you pick it up and you slide it over and then you have access to your your blades and inside there there's a this is from the old one there's a cutter head on bearing just like that and that is holding down these 13-inch steel knives and this is what comes with the planer originally there would be three of these in there and you can see it's got a slot on there these are all kind of elongated holes and that allows you to shift left or right a little bit if you happen to get a nick in one of the knives and um once the knives are once they're damaged all on one side you just flip it around and you have another edge so these cost last i checked on the home depot website about 55 for a set of three let's just round up or tax say sixty dollars to make the math easy divide by three it's twenty dollars for each one of these knives or ten dollars per edge now moving over to your left we got the the shelix replacement cutter head which you can see looks quite a bit different first of all it's in a helical pattern instead of just straight across so each one of these individual cutters there is at a slight angle gives you a little bit of a shear cut and if one of these gets damaged last i checked a box of ten replacement cutters cost about thirty five dollars roundup forty dollars divide by ten and you have four dollars per cutter or one dollar per edge because each of these has four edges on it now to do the math on that let's just say uh you're having some bad luck and you you hit a nail with one of these steel knives and you put put a nick in there you might be able to shift it but if it's bad enough maybe you have to decide you're going to replace this edge because it's leaving too many trails on the finished lumber you're trying to work with so you flip it 10 is your cost of going to a new edge over here you rotate this and one dollar is your cost of going to a new edge now it's a bad day and you hit another nail or some foreign debris or you have some sand or something that got into a piece of wood and you got to replace this again because it tore up a little section of the blade now you're gonna have to replace this whole thing so your cost is up to twenty dollars at this point and you rotate your knife over here if the same thing happened and you're up to two dollars if it happens again three dollars thirty dollars four dollars forty dollars the question of whether you are going to get your money back investing four hundred dollars in a shelix uh helical cutterhead upgrade largely depends on a lot of things like what kind of wood you're cutting how frequently you have to change your knives as is how much figured wood you're planing whether you're hitting a lot of hard knots that might damage a softer steel knife and these are going to last longer anyway because they're carbide something that might not damage a carbide cutter will damage steel cutter so if you're primarily planing pine softer woods and you really don't have to change your your blades very frequently then it's going to take you a lot longer to get your money back and you might not ever get your money back you know maybe it's just not worth it from from an investment standpoint but uh you know there's also some other things to consider such as if you're cutting figured wood then you're going to find that you'll get a much better finish with an angled sheer cut like that than with a straight cut on these knives so you're going to have less loss in your materials and in my case you know i'm a hobby woodworker i like this one that's all there is to it i'm going to pay a little bit more because i like that one more than i like this one it's easier for me to change knives uh you know i only have to take out one screw as opposed to eight screws and gives me a nicer finish and it just you know kind of looks cool so that's the nice thing about being a hobby woodworker is i don't really have to think that hard about whether i'm getting my money back it was a christmas present my wife got me that as a christmas present so i'm not concerned about it i'm happy with my purchase and i'm glad i don't have to deal with these anymore if you're considering this upgrade one thing that you really need to know first is that there is a smaller diameter cutter head and an oem diameter that's original equipment manufacturer this is the size of the one that comes in the planer originally and there's a smaller diameter one that is supposed to be a little bit easier to install now when i put that in my wish list or put a link to this in my wish list i didn't notice that there were two different sizes and then i saw that later and i just didn't think to go back to change it i figured i would just you know adjust my gauges a little bit no big deal that was a mistake in hindsight i really wish i would have gotten the oem diameter and the reason that there are two different sizes is that when you're installing this thing it slides in that way you slide in that bearing through the through the opening for that bearing and then all of these cutters have to pass through the opening that's going to hold that bearing and this diameter and the diameter of the original version is a little bit larger than that bearing so that means that you have to remove all 40 cutters from this thing in the oem version before you can install it and then you have to reinstall all 40 cutters after you install it and some people find that to be a huge pain in the neck so they make a slightly undersized one and that's supposed to allow you to slide this thing in with without having to worry about removing all of those cutters and reseeding them properly but surprise surprise as i found out and as it said in the instructions one or two rows of inserts may need to be removed that's for the undersized one there are four rows of inserts you are going to need to remove two of them probably to get this to slide into place other with the undersized one otherwise you're you're going to be cutting it kind of close and you might end up scratching the inside of the bearing opening which is you know just not something you want to do it's not a moving part of the bearing so it won't really affect the functionality but you know you're putting a scratch on your your planer and that's just not cool so for that reason i would say just bite the bullet get this thing and plan on removing 40 cutters and learn how to properly seat them when you're putting them back in place it's not a big deal it might take you an hour or so but you know taking out 40 screws and putting 40 screws back in is really not that much trouble that you want to risk all of the aggravation that's going to come with getting the undersized version for example when you get a new planer you're going to want to first make sure that all of your measurement tools are correct you have your your depth indicator here your material removal gauge that'll tell you how much you're taking off with each pass you have the uh the measurement gauge on the right that's going to tell you what the final thickness of that piece of wood will be after it comes out the other side and you have your depth stop right there that will let you make repeatable cuts to some of the the standard measurements after you get those measurements done you shouldn't have to mess with it too much in the future this is showing right now that i'm removing a sixteenth of an inch i have these both configured the same so a sixteenth is accurately a sixteenth and i could go down all the way to an eighth of an inch at which point this safety bar on the front is going to make contact with that piece of wood and that's just there to make sure that you can't take more than an eighth of an inch pass at any time because that's uh it might cause kickback or overload the machine so that safety bar is gonna stop you now i go over to the one that i modified with an undersized cutter head and i'm at a sixteenth of an inch right there but you can see i'm already making contact with the safety bar so i actually lost a sixteenth of an inch potential depth of cut by installing the undersized cutter head because now that cutter head is higher up so the rest of the body of the planer has to go down lower for the same thing to happen that includes the rollers so not only is the uh is the depth the safety bar going to make contact and limit your depth of cut the rollers are putting additional pressure on that piece of wood as it's passing through now the the rollers are spring-loaded so it's not going to break anything it's going to cause some minor problems but not any serious damage to the planer i originally thought that that my table might have been flexing because i had a situation kind of like this where as the wood was coming out it was sticking up a little bit like that and what it turns out was probably happening is that i had some snipe on one end of the board and it was uh it was just causing it to look like it was picking up because when it was coming out there was a little bit of a seesaw effect as the the roller pushed down so it's not going to bend your table it's not going to destroy your rollers however one thing it will do with that little bit of extra pressure placed on the wood as it's passing through is more pressure down means more drag now the same motor is driving the cutter head in the middle and also driving the two feed rollers they're connected with a chain so if there's additional pressure down on the table it makes the rollers have to work harder to move the board through and that's drawing away from the power that you'll have for your cutter head so it's a little bit of subtraction subtraction i haven't measured exactly how much yet but i probably wouldn't be able to without having an undersized shelix head and a regular size shelix head it wouldn't be a one for one comparison with the with the steel knives but maybe it's something i will get to later and the last thing you have to consider is that this material removal gauge right here will only adjust a small amount so what ended up happening with the other one is i had to take this off and grind the top of the material removal gauge way so that i can move it up enough so that it was going to show an accurate reading i can replace that thing later if i ever switch back to a different cutter head or the oem size all i have to do is take the screws off that plate and replace it and there are probably some other ways to do it too but i saw that as being a pretty low impact in the long term since it was something i could access from the front but still it's an aggravation that you have to actually take the time to remove a plate and grind it down or you know add add some tape on there and re-mark everything or try to bend that red bar and you can get to it from the inside it's all a lot of work and you're doing this because you wanted to save a little time in removing screws from the undersized cutter head that just wasn't worth it i got to talk to a technician from bird tool about the roller issue and a few other things and i wanted to make sure i got some good answers to you guys so i let them know up front that this was ben calling from the snecker show and he was like oh man no way i'm a huge fan i love snickers well i wasn't going to pass up that opportunity so i told him i'd send him a box if he just answered some questions for me he was real friendly and helpful and passed on a pretty cool tip here if you already have an undersized cutter head and you're having issues with your rollers take a block of wood like this and cut it so it fits underneath the roller right there now watch what happens over here as i lower the planer body down so you take the pressure off and compress the spring that's above the the roller block and that gives you enough room to put a shim in there and take some of that roller pressure off this this piece of metal with the two screws in it is what's preventing that from dropping down any farther i haven't tested this i haven't tried it so i'm not going to demonstrate it but if there's enough interest i might make a separate video about that i just wanted to point out that that is an option he also said that if you bought an undersized cutter head and it's giving you troubles you can probably switch it out for an oem size you just got to contact the company that you bought it from or if you got it directly from bird tool contact them there is going to be a fee and i'm not going to say how much he told me because the policy or the price might change but just keep in mind that is an option if you have an undersized one and you're having any trouble with it i switched over to my boom microphone so we can do a quick noise comparison and to do that i'm just going to run this piece of white oak through both planers separately and i am going to reduce the volume using software after uh before i publish this and that's just so it doesn't blow anybody's speakers out but the idea is not to see exactly how loud it would be in your house because your acoustics are going to be different than the distance from you know the camera to the planers the idea here is just to see what type of noise difference there is and how much of a difference there is between the uh the regular steel knives and the shelix upgrade [Music] [Music] [Music] hmm [Music] [Music] [Music] and just for kicks i'm going to do that again with no dust collection and no load i'll just turn on the two planers so you can hear the difference [Music] the next question that we need to answer is whether the shelix upgraded planer in fact draws more power than the stock one with the uh the steel knives i think the answer is yes just because i've heard that the motor sounds like it's working a little bit harder and the shelix upgraded one however you also notice during the sound comparison that this one produces a very high pitched whiny noise and this one does not so the reduction in that high pitch screen might make it easier to hear the motor working hard in this one that might just give the impression that it's actually drawing more power than the the stock model maybe that's the case maybe it's not but the way we're going to find that out is if the with a clamp meter this is going to clamp around the power cord for the two planers i'll have to do them separately one at a time and just take the readings this will read the the actual amps that are drawn to the motor and that's going to let us know the the maximum power drawn during any planing session there's actually a max setting on here so it'll just hit that top number if it keeps hitting a new number it'll just raise it up and whatever number shows up at the end is going to be your your max power drawn during that session i did some preliminary testing using just the shelix upgraded one not the the new one at the same time the results were so unexpected that i thought my my clamp meter might have gone bad so i actually went out and picked up another one just because i wanted to make sure before i published something online showing you know actual numbers and measurements and i got the same measurements the second time with the new meter so that was money down the drain except for i got a pretty cool clamp meter now so can't complain about that i guess so now what we're going to do is sacrifice this big piece of red oak 2 by 10 to these planers for the purpose of measuring how much power they're drawing i'm going to cut this in half because i think i only need a three foot section uh six foot's just too much it'll make it harder to film and throughout the course of three feet we're going to be able to get a good accurate top measurement for both planers and that way i know i know that using this single piece of wood cut in half that it's the the same material that's going through there it's the same density it's the same grain structure so there's not going to be any any differences between the tests there i've also made sure that both of the the infeed and outfeed tables are flush with the main table and i wax the main table on both of these so there's not going to be any additional drag on one over the other the only real difference between these two is that see this one is a 2016 model this is a 2020 model and this one has the shelix cutter head the undersized one and this one has the stock knives in it so other than that the test i think is pretty fair and i'm really curious to see how this turns out let's do a quick walkthrough of the test environment before we start i have the clamp meter hanging off of a line splitter and the purpose of the line splitter is just to separate the hot and neutral wires so they don't cancel each other out in the reading down here that's on a 12 gauge extension cord so it handles 20 amps very well and that's plugged into a 20 amp outlet and a 20 amp circuit in the breaker and then down here on the meter we are you're going to see that the decimal place will be off by one just because this model of line splitter uses 10 loops and therefore you're going to see the amps times 10. this gives you better accuracy it's not really going to matter too much for this test so you'll see if it's 150 amps down here 150.00 that means it's 15 amps if you see 155 that's 15.5 and uh over here let's see once i start this up there's going to be an initial spike in power here because the uh the motor doesn't have momentum yet so it draws a little bit more to get started and then once that kind of levels out i'm going to hit the max button and that'll just freeze this at whatever the maximum level is that's reached during the planing session so you won't see a lot of up and down fluctuation it'll just hit a number kind of stay there and if it goes past that it'll move up a little bit more and then that's the number that we're going to average at the end between these two planers i think i'm only going to use one of these boards for this test and the other one is going to be for a separate test which i am going to do now it's just not going to be included in this video because it's not entirely related to the topic i've been doing some power testing with that planer and i'll just put that in a separate video so we're going to go for one of these boards 16 passes removing a sixteenth of an inch each pass which is the max i can get to on the one with the undersized shelix and uh that's one rotation of the crank each time so we'll go two passes two passes repeat that probably go empty my dust collection come back and go in reverse order two and two and at that point we should have a pretty good idea of which one of these is drawing more power and exactly how much um [Laughter] [Music] [Music] hey [Music] [Music] hmm [Music] so so [Music] [Music] so [Music] oh so [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] so here i was wondering how long it was going to take before that happened and that was actually in this case the first time i think i've tripped this that was the overheat breaker in the planer so that i saw that coming but i wasn't sure if it was going to be here or in the [Music] wall [Music] hmm [Music] hmm [Music] [Music] my wife heard me putting that music in the video and she's like what are you watching down there so uh was anybody else completely surprised by how far over the power draw was on either one of these frankly it was about six over the the 20 amp circuit breaker limit on the oem blades and about 12 over on the shelix and you can see i kind of got mixed up at the end there i didn't run the full second round of tests i ended up doing just more on this one but yeah you can see this one got worn out and all that happened really was this thing in the front this uh this breaker here this is just like the circuit breaker in the wall and when it gets hot enough it's going to pop out and that will protect your motor i opened both of these up just so i could feel around the motor and actually this one felt quite a bit hotter which i thought was kind of odd because this is the one that tripped so it's always a possibility that that um just from from time and use that the breaker in the front of this one is a little bit more sensitive than the new one here and that happens with circuit breakers in the panel as well if you get a lot of trips in your garage and you're not really going over the limit that much or so you think you should probably take a look at maybe switching out a circuit breaker and that might help you out if you're having problems with with breakers tripping or if it's just really old but uh man that was a big difference that's why i went out and got a new new meter originally because there is no way that i am drawing 31 amps on this thing and a 20 amp circuit and it's not tripping the thing at the wall but they are designed to take a little bit of overload for a period of time so like every time you flip on a tool it doesn't trip breaker with that initial surge but i didn't think it was that much so if you have a 15 amp circuit in your garage first of all this planer is going to probably wear your grid out if you have a 20 amp circuit in the garage you'll probably be fine with either one but you know how much wood you're probably going to plane and what size and what type so that that's why i put the red oak 2 by 10 in there because i really wanted to make both these things work i do not playing a lot of red oh two by tens and i was kind of sad to see that one go but it didn't really cost me anything because it was from a tree that came down in a hurricane several years ago and it's been getting a little bit eaten up by powder post beetles so that's why that one went into the planer so if you play in a lot of hardwood and and large quantities of it you're either going to want you know if you're thinking about upgrading to a shelix you're either going to want to take it a little bit slower and maybe take some breaks once in a while let things cool down or you're just going to want to stick with the oem knives or frankly if you're playing in a lot of wide hardwood panels you might want to look at getting a planer with an induction motor as opposed to these smaller universal motors you're going to find universal motors in portable planers because they're a lot lighter and you're going to find the the heavier induction motors in the the stationary planers and you're not going to be able to pick that up and throw it in your vehicle or really move it around in your shop without a mobile base or somebody to help you and also they're quite a bit more expensive last a lot longer but that's not really what this is about it's just to show that the uh the sheila cutter head absolutely draws more power than the oem knives in this test it averaged out to about 5 amps of difference so keep that in mind as you're making your purse decision if your workshop can handle that kind of a load a lot of people wonder if upgrading to a shelix cutterhead is going to void the warranty on their planer that's a great question and it's one that i didn't ask myself when i upgraded this one because i'm pretty sure it was outside of the warranty period and i was going to do it anyway i've actually had pretty good luck with dewalt tools and in 25 years or so i've never had to send anything back for warranty repair other people may have had a different experience this one however this is a new planer brand new and i would probably not want to void the warranty on this one so i decided to get an answer for both of us and just call up dewalt directly to ask that question the first person i spoke with was a repair technician and i asked if she'd ever heard of the bird shelix cut her head and she said no it kind of surprised me because i thought it was a pretty popular upgrade for these but i explained what it was and then asked if installing one of those in my planer would void the warranty and she gave a really quick answer said yes absolutely definitely yeah yeah that's going to avoid the warranty it sounded more like a reaction like a safe reaction than an actual well-thought-out answer so i didn't entirely trust it and i decided to call back and talk to somebody else this time i got like a tier one service person and i asked him a different question based on the response for the first one trying to lead him in on the target so i said i just got a new planer if my knives go dull and i replace those knives with a different brand like i get some power tech knives instead of the dewalt ones and i put those in there is that going to void my warranty he put me on hold did a little research came back a minute or two later and said yes if you put a different brand of knives in your planer that's going to void your warranty now we're getting somewhere so i asked him to show me where the warranty was because i wanted to read it i thought it was going to be like a 30 page legal document but it was actually just a web page you can just scroll down a little bit and read the whole thing or at least what they show to you pretty simple and i said can you show me on this page where it says that replacing the knives with a different brand would void the warranty he said well it it doesn't actually say that okay well what does it say we found the part where i'll just put it up on the screen so i don't have to remember it exactly but something along the lines of accessories or damage caused by repairs made by somebody other than a dewalt authorized service person are not going to be covered under the warranty okay well that makes sense so that's like if you get a new car and your new car has a three-year 30 000 mile warranty and after a year you put on a different brand of windshield wipers and a different brand of tires that's not going to void the warranty on the whole car but also you wouldn't expect the dealer to honor any warranty on those tires or those windshield wipers because they didn't make them and they didn't install them i think it's the same thing with the planer at least that was my understanding is that if you install a shelix cutter head in this planer that cutter head and anything that's affected by it is not going to be covered by the warranty so you know if i switch out this wrench for a different brand it's not going to avoid the warranty on the whole planer if i switch out the knives it's not going to void the warranty on the whole planer the cutter head is not going to void the warranty on the whole planer anytime you take something in for a repair for uh for a warranty service they're going to do an assessment to see if the the repair is necessary because of either an unauthorized repair or some kind of you know damage caused by neglect or misuse so if you put in this cutter head let's look at the things that might be affected now we already know from the testing earlier that the shelix cutter head is going to draw quite a bit more power so first thing i thought of was that's going to put additional strain on the motor however we also saw on that same test that they already have a feature built in to protect the motor from overheating there's a there's a circuit breaker on here and the same one is on that planer so if i decide to run 10 000 board feet through this planer that's going to put a lot of wear on it but that circuit breaker is going to overheat and prevent the motor from overheating it'll trip and shut it off now on this one if i'm just a hobby woodworker and i you know maybe put a couple hundred board feet through here using the shelix cutter head it's not really doing anything different if it gets too hot it's just gonna trip the breaker and protect the motor so if you take your your planer in for repair because that breaker keeps tripping and they see that you have a shelix cutter head they might not honor the warranty on that breaker because something affected that you did something that would modify how that you know the load on that breaker however i don't think that should affect the motor and i'm not speaking on behalf of dewalt here i'm just trying to understand what i was told i don't think it would affect the motor because they have a feature in place that's going to protect the motor and it's not going to affect anything else around here so just something to keep in mind if you're going to do the upgrade it is going to void the warranty on things that are affected by the upgrade and probably nothing else well there's a lot more i could put into this video but the truth is i've been working on this on and off for about three or four weekends now and i really need to get it done because the weekend is almost over again so right now there might be a little sesame street in the background because my wife is feeding the baby on the other side of the wall and i'm not going to interrupt that so what we're going to do now is plane a couple of different samples of wood that all pose their own unique planing challenges we'll start out with this piece of plum that has some bark on there and this is really rock hard wood and rock hard bark so this uh this is kind of hard on the planer and some people say that you shouldn't plain bark but the truth is my tools my rules so if i want to run a ham sandwich through one of these i can do that i'm going to run this piece of plum wood through there to see how it comes out in both machines now having done this before i'm going to start with the shelix planer and then i'll move over to the the straight knife one because i know this one is going to do better on these types of wood that's the whole reason i bought it next we're going to have an end grain cutting board i used this in the last video as well i don't really mind cutting this up because uh the i think this chestnut oak very hard wood again was might have been a little bit higher too high moisture content when i glued this together so it shrunk and cracked after this thing was taken inside the house so i'll do a few passes on this to see how it holds up with with each planer and i've been asked about end grain planing i'll do a separate video on that i'm not going to get into it in this one but yes you can do it you just got to do it right and next i have another piece of plum wood which just happens to be a very dense piece this is as hard and it has a few knots in there so that might give it some some challenges and then moving on to the piece that i showed in the beginning i've had this for a long time and you can probably see if i can get in the light there you can that might do it you can see how how chipped up this is and i don't remember which planer i ran this through or if i just bought it like this but i've had this piece of wood for a long time it's very hard dry and brittle wood so i expect that it's going to chip up some more here but i'll run it through the uh the shelix planer first and then switch over to the straight knife one and see if we can clean up some of that on the shelix before making it worse again and lastly i'm going to put through this piece of ambrosia maple and i cut this down from or cut this out of a tree that came down on a hurricane and you can see uh that the the grain is kind of fuzzy on this side but not so much on the other side if i flipped it around the other direction it would be the opposite so each one of these pieces of wood has some grain that runs in in different directions so usually you want to try to plane whether it's a hand plane or a machine plane or a jointer you want to try to work so the grain is going in your favor so you don't lift up the grain but because this is kind of close to that this is right in the the center of the tree right there you got some different directions on either side so this will get a little fuzzy probably on this plane or even though the knives are pretty new in here and we'll see how it does in that one [Applause] [Music] hey [Music] [Music] [Music] oh [Music] [Applause] [Music] that was a pretty interesting test i thought now both of these performed pretty well these are brand new knives in this one keep that in mind they don't stay that new for very long just like the knives in your kitchen where they're you know they're great one time when you sharpen them and then a month later you can't cut through a tomato so that's what you get from steel knives but man brand new ones are pretty awesome it performed pretty well on on most of these or at least the steel knives did uh sounded like it was straining a lot more almost sounded angry going through this piece and it slid it around a lot more as it was going through i was actually expecting this to shatter to blow apart into pieces from the pressure but i had the edges rounded over they're now chamfered because i did another test talk about that in a second this one did pretty well on both of them i was surprised how well this one held up again with uh a very light pass and and new sharp knives i did get some chipping in here from the the steel knives that weren't there with the shelix and that's one of the main reasons that i wanted to switch over anyway was things like this with a tiger stripe maple and on the ambrosia maple this thing was it was a challenge because the grain is very loose in this anyway so it does tend to lift up but i think both did reasonably well the shelix performed a little bit better there was less less grain lifting over on this side but back to that end grain cutting board just because it's an interesting way to finish up the video um i hadn't really done a comparison on the end green one ones before so i decided that based on the sound that this one was making to do another test i went over to my router table and i put a chamfered edge on here because that's part of the part of the way to run end grain boards through the planer without having them blow out if you just have a straight edge on the end it's going to really it's going to be too much pressure and you'll just chip off the last chunk so i put a new chamfer on both both sides and made the same pass again on the higher speed and a 32nd of an inch pass and i connected it to the meter this time and took measurements this really surprised me again the shelix planer came through at a whopping 36.1 amps i think that was the highest reading yet in all of these tests so 36.1 over here over on the on the steel knives 35.7 that's almost the same like we're talking about 0.4 amps of difference and that you know that could have been just a little little tweak in the in the wheel when i was turning it i thought i was taking a 30 second exactly on both but you know just a little bit of a difference could have adjusted that slightly but that was very close so uh it's kind of interesting to see how much power this one draws even on like pine boards it'll draw a little more power but when we get into something really challenging it seemed like the shelix was handling the the much harder pieces of wood with less effort well just something that i noticed anyway i think that brings us to the end of the video i can probably keep going but i'm going to put a put a bow on this one and move on to something else i hope it was helpful and i hope if you watch the first one that this brought some new information to you that you didn't have before and if this is your first time here thanks for stopping by i hope this was enlightening and helps you make a good decision about upgrading your tools i got to figure out what to do with two planers thanks for watching have a great [Music] day [Music] [Music] you

Channel: The Snekker Show

Views: 236,785

Rating: 4.8941264 out of 5

Keywords: shelix, helical, carbide, thickness planer, dewalt, dw735, byrd tool, byrd tools, byrd, klein, clamp meter

Id: 47PyY4K47KU

Length: 45min 4sec (2704 seconds)

Published: Tue Oct 20 2020