Dean Beyett's 2019 Mobile Electronics Industrys Installer of the Year submission

hey everybody Chris Bennett with audio control here I just wanted to go and talk about why I believe Dean bayit should be installer of the year first off I believe he's a real retailer that's out there every day trying to educate not only other installers and technicians out there but also the public what he does for our community in car audio is amazing he's built nice little social media network that has done a world of good for us at audio control as well as so many other brands out there trying to remain as brand agnostic as possible but be one of the best 12-volt solutions out there in social media so we appreciate what the guys do at 5-star car stereo and believe that Dean Bay yet with five star should be installer of the year for the mobile electronics industry morning everybody and welcome to the show how you doing buddy all right ready to get started oh yeah today we're gonna be working on a 2019 Honda Accord one of the unique features of the Honda Accord is something that a lot of cars are starting to move to and that is the floating screen in the dash we're starting to see that in the aftermarket side as well we have a few manufacturers that are producing floating radios like this that'll allow you to retrofit your car to look like one of these newer cars this style radio does pose a few challenges for us in the aftermarket world for one we're not going to be replacing out this radio it's got to stay it's part of the car all the data in the car passes through this radio air conditioning drive control gas pretty much anything that you're gonna be doing in the car is somehow going to be integrated into this touchscreen so what that means for us is that we're gonna be integrating into the factory systems in this car so we're gonna have a lot of testing we're gonna have to do to do that but before we get to that point let's talk a little bit about what we're gonna be doing in this car for this particular customer because he had a certain set of requirements that were important to him right off the bat he wants bass because there is no subwoofer in here it didn't come with the factory one he's also got two kids which means double the amount of fun that he takes with him so he doesn't want a big box enclosure he's also got this plastic floor mat in here that he wants to keep we've talked on the phone about a couple of options and one of the things that he would like to do in this car is a subwoofer that is down firing so that he can still put stuff on top of it is the small footprint so when it sits in the trunk it's not gonna take up a ton of room and he can move it wherever he needs to in case he has to put kids stuff in the back which he does frequently the other thing is he really doesn't want to see any of the equipment there's no room underneath where the spare tire is because it has a full spare tire that of course he still wants to be able to get to we talked about putting it on one of the side panels here up here somewhere or over here he wasn't too keen on that idea and really wants to put it somewhere that's totally out of the way after doing a little bit of looking around in the car what we come up with is this area here underneath the passenger seat there's a lot of them here there is some vents that come out from underneath the floor mat tends to stick underneath it a little bit the seat sits on these risers here which means that we can build a panel that suspends itself over this allows the airflow to still come out and mounts the amplifier firmly up underneath the seat and keeps it tucked in out of the way because of that space being a premium we're gonna go with integrated DSP amplifier that is an amplifier that has all the processing all the inputs all the things we're going to need to integrate into this factory stereo already built into it so we don't have any other equipment we have to hide somewhere in the car it'll streamline the installation process just a little bit because we are going to be doing a DSP in the car we're gonna be doing time alignment that means that we're gonna need some information from the customer specifically his size and where he's sitting in the car very important that you have this in order to do time alignment sometimes we're fortunate and the customer is still here and it allows us to get those measurements beforehand and what we're looking to do is figure out where his head is in relationship to all the speakers in the vehicle now when doing these measurements what you want to do is measure from here to the cone of the speaker now keep in mind the speakers are in the door panels what you want to do is add about two and a half inches to your measurement so that you can compensate for that in this case we're just going to be doing a set of components up front that are going to be passive meaning we're gonna be using the crossovers that come with those components when doing time correction the preferred method is to do active this case we're just going to be measuring to the mid-range we do this a lot and we've had great success with how it turns out once we get the measurements done we're not putting away the tape measure quite yeah that just got us a little bit of a head start at the end of the installation one of the other things we do is we measure the location of the seed we have several key points that we do that on and the reason we're gonna do that as we're doing the install this seed is going to move but we have wiring that's gonna be running along this panel or may be running along this panel we want to be able to put the seat back in the same location it was when he brought it in now if we're lucky you don't have seat memory on it and we don't have to worry about it but in this case this car does that means is that we're going to take several different measurements for this install we want to know how far it is from the steering wheel to the base of the headrest how far it is from the bottom of the steering wheel to the crease in the see the headrest to the ceiling front of the seat to the gas pedal the bottom of the seat to the floor both front and back from the bottom of the back of the seat to the ceiling as well as the front of the seat to the ceiling that way we can move this back in to the exact position it was we also a gauge and how big the customer is when he's sitting in the car because we need to still be able to tune the car as you saw he is a tall gentleman we'll have to make sure we shim ourselves up on the seat so that when we're listening we're at about his head height anytime I bring a car into the install bay before we start our installation we want to protect as much of the interior as possible we also place carpet over the armrest if there's a gear shifter we have a gear shifter boot and the steering wheel of course gets covered as well the idea is to keep the car as safe as possible while we're working on it there's any panel that's gonna be removed or anything that could possibly get scraped we also cover it and tape a couple different layers to make sure that nothing will happen to that because we'll be working on the battery here up underneath the hood we also want to make sure we protect the side of the vehicle and any other area that we're going to be working on what we want to do at this point is figure out what this factory stereo is doing to the car not the RTA yet we don't need to know that but we want to do is check polarity we want to see if the factory has anything in or out of polarity relative to the other speakers in the car for example is this tweeter and polarity with this mid-range there's also back tweeters in the very back corners which we're going to negate but we want to see what's going on back as well this particular vehicle doesn't have a factory subwoofer and what that probably means is it has a base model system mean there's no exterior amplifier but we'll talk about that more as we proceed through the install to do polarity check you need the polarity popping sound basically it moves the speaker and there's a tool that will read that we have multiple versions of this depending on what the car has in this case this car does not have a CD player anywhere in the car it works strictly off of the USB because this car has car play to do our polarity test we'll be using a phone that has the track recorded on it to test for polarity there are apps that you can download on your phone however we are going to be using our phone to generate the polarity so we'd have to have a long enough cable to move it around to each speaker there are tools you can also buy as well and that's our preferred method I'm a collector I like to collect holes and I have a collection of polarity tools we have all different styles depending on the situation this tool here the PT 9a will generate a test tone bull Vox and over test leads it has a microphone in the tip here this one here is very similar to it this is a select products version this is a a wand style that you just put up next to the speaker and it lights up green and red this does the same thing as well go ahead and play the test track the speaker is going to make a popping sound we can put our tester to it in this track puts out a green green red hop which we're seeing here tweeter is doing green green red we move on to the mid bass mid bass is doing green green red we'll check the rear of the car also check this far tweeter we've done that check we know that all the speakers in the car tweeters in mid range are all moving in the same direction nothing that is reversed to its counterpart knowing that information at the beginning saves us a little bit of time at the end while we're moving through the car one of the things that we talked about in this install with this particular customer he's worried about brow he realizes that there is going to be a certain amount of vibration in the door and he wants to eliminate that as much as possible we're gonna do a sound treatment on his door now we offer a couple different sound treatments depending on your needs in this case he selected our premium sound treatment and once that's going to consist of the actual door panel itself we want to go over any of the seams that the door panel has make sure that they don't rattle we're gonna concentrate on the actual amount of the speaker as well as behind the speaker on this exterior of the door which is where a lot of the rattle comes from we're also going to be doing the rear deck we do the back side of the rear deck completely along with the rear deck itself using a couple different materials along the way which we'll show once we get to that portion of the install four speakers he is going to be doing a set of components up front as we said and it said Co axles for the rear even though the rear is a factory component set he really didn't see the need to do that because he's not super excited about rear fill he does have kids are gonna sit back there but most of the time there have their headphones in and they're listening to their own thing he just wants it for the effect when doing a system like this if you look at it on a sheet of paper it seems pretty simple with all five channel amp set of components up front coaxial in the rear and a subwoofer that's really about it reality is though it's a much bigger process installing that amplifier it's a full DSP amplifier and it has to integrate with a factory stereo we're doing sound treatment on the doors very time-consuming process time management is crucial when doing a job like this we have a certain amount of time in which we need to finish it once we're even done with it we're not technically done with it yet we still have a couple hours in which we have to sit in the car what I like to call debugging testing and tuning getting a plan from the get-go together and starting on it is important one of the things we do right when a car comes in along with all this testing is we spend a couple minutes going over the criteria of the car we need to spend some time going over with my partner Fernando what he's gonna be responsible for and what I'm gonna be responsible for that also means where he's gonna be out in the car relative to where I'm gonna be at in the car he's gonna start on the sound treatment we do have to go over what's actually going in the car because although I've been telling you I've been neglecting him we're gonna our premium treatment package we want to make sure we cover all the joints on here do this focus here and of course get the whole inside skin of the door panel as much as possible we're not doing the back doors because there's no speakers in here but we are going to do the rear deck and put select on the top we're putting the tempo ultras and here with fast drinks we'll have to figure out where we can put the crossover as far as integration goes I have to get the - apart and figure out what's going on there we're going to be mounting the base knob in underneath that USB everything is going to go underneath the passenger seat okay so what I'm thinking is we'll build a floating amp rack off of the floor so that the mat still goes underneath it which will also allow the heat and air to come out he lives in North Carolina not here in Florida we want to make sure that still functions unless there's a hole in the firewall which I haven't checked yet there is a giant grommet there I have to get the glovebox out because the ANSI mic so we have to disable I believe are below the airbag and above the glovebox yes I think on the last one we did that for it with that never vehicle so what I'm thinking is starting on the driver's door okay or the rear deck I always think it's dark well I have to do all the testing so I got to get the radio out of the bat I'm thinking we saved that door for last once I go to start doing the amp rack I think going in the natural transition go one three four yeah and come back to - would probably make the most sense that's because I don't think there's anything I need to do on that inside or outside and you're gonna have a couple hours on that I don't think there's anything we need to pull apart on this side as far as floor rails go somewhere we'll go up the passenger side here correct and then the signal yeah come up with a strategy as far as what we want to do if you heard me say 1 3 4 - that's how we refer to the speaker positioning is in the car driver one pasture 2 3 and 4 out of the rear there again it goes 1 2 3 4 that is a pattern that we talk about any time we're doing an amplifier speaker locations wiring on the radio it's just something we've come up with to make it easier to understand instead of having to say passenger rear drivers hey everybody this is Nathan Winsett from amp global I'm the VP of the integration division namely pack products just wanted to take a minute to tell you about Dean I've known Dean since high school in many years Dean's I think very deserving of this installer of the Year award because he has unmatched dedication his thirst for additional knowledge continually learning is I just don't see that in many people it's what drives him that really sets him apart you know he really wants customers to have the best experience possible he wants them to have an experience with our industry that is very satisfying he wants the industry to to have a good reputation so that it can not only supply the need of our consumers so that it has staying power so that it's around for all of us for many many years it's really top of mind for him that it's all about how the things retailers do and manufacturers how they are received by the consumer and you know how that reflects on the industry as a whole just wanted to give you a little bit of insight hope this helps all right thank you you have a good day he's gonna start on this door getting it apart getting me that factory speakers so we can figure out what kind of paneling we have to come up with because one of the things we're not going to do is chop up the factory speaker or anything hokey like that if it needs a panel we'll build a panel before we get started on this door we want to talk about tools that you're gonna need in order to perform said tasks this is plastic this is vinyl it's scratch is super easy so you need a tool that's not going to scratch it you just don't grab a big flat-head screwdriver like this and start going at it also this is a panel clip remover this is designed to go behind a panel and pull a panel out not come at it from the front to pop it out for that you need something that's made out of soft material that won't scratch the class we have a couple different versions of it this is a giant panel tool the reason why this is cool because in certain situation where you need a tool like this because of its strength you can use this tool because of its strength a finer detail work we have these two guys here the white is the softest of the tooth we're doing something that will really scared of scratching we use this tool because it can get in there and this will break chip or Bend long before the plastic panel that we're taking out will then this guy here is one of my personal favorites because it's nice and rigid it's very soft and it can get into places further up and that a normal tool won't do that's not to say we don't still have a bunch of the little blue ones because those are specialty they can get in and do a lot of neat things there's one other test we do but we had to wait until we get the driver's door panel off in order to do that and that is testing for a and C or automatic noise cancellation some people call it fake engine noise there's a ton of different names for but basically it does one of two things one in the case of what honda usually likes to do it pumps in noise that is designed to kill cabin noise think of it as like a set of noise cancelling headphones but in the whole car the second is if you have something like a v6 engine and the car manufacturer wants it to sound bigger and meaner then they'll pump in like a growl sound into the speaker either way all of them are a headache when it comes to adding a subwoofer especially in the Honda's no not all Honda's have it and you want to test for it what you're gonna need is something like this which is a handheld RTA this is gonna allow us to do see the signal that's coming to the speaker and as we've rev up the engine or make noise in the car it will react accordingly the reason why we needed to wait until the door panel is office so we can get to these front speaker wires in order to do the test put some test leads onto the negative-positive speaker wires here then those are gonna get plugged in next you want to get into the vehicle roll up all the windows that's important because controlling the windows actually will turn it on and off make sure the trunk is closed make sure the seat is folded up connect the RTA and rev it up [Music] that's something you don't want to see that means that there is ANC in this particular car now another telltale sign for is usually there's microphones in multiple locations in the car such as up here by the handles usually there's one in the back somewhere depending on your make model and car there are certain ways that they can be disabled usually in the Honda Accords there is a silver box that just gets unplugged and it shuts the whole thing down and some other vehicles you actually have to go into the programming of the car and shut it off some of them it's just as simple as going to the microphones and unplugging them each car manufacturer likes to torture us in their own specific way the reason why we use this particular RTA this one does not have a microphone that is actually active on it and the reason why is you can pick up noise over that microphone that mimics and see most customers are not even aware of this so when you tell them all your car has they're like well huh I don't hear that and that means it's working because you're not supposed to know that it has it what happened if we didn't disable that in this particular car is that every time they go to accelerate you saw how that was in the low frequency band the subwoofer would try to reproduce that and then the car would try to counter that and then it would get louder and eventually what happens is it just rails up until the point to where the subwoofer just sounds like it's gonna explode that's also a dead giveaway the car has it you don't want to get to that point you want to make sure before you start that you know as much as you can this will also save as time in the end and possible headaches let's take a look at the factory speaker uses a small neo magnet made out of a composite material it screws in with one hole here and it clips in the bottom it attaches like this snaps into place once groove done the speaker we want to put in its location is this guy here it's a little bigger and a lot deeper that means it's just not going to sit in the door screw in and be nice and easy we have to come up with a mounting system that takes this and fits it into this location let's head over the door and just set this into the hole and see what that looks like because of those two clips they've built this funny shape into the door and that's where these go in and it's got this clip in bolt system here it just pops out and this of course is perfectly round - is the window gonna sit right about there we just set this in right here I could see I'm touching the window it's gonna need about an inch to come out of the door we do space it down an inch that's kind of nice because this at an inch doesn't get in the way it might get way of the actual door panel if we look at the factory speaker again it's about an inch and a d-plus it has another quarter inch piece of foam and a hard piece of plastic on it making it about an inch and a half the surround sits in about an eighth of an inch that means we have plenty of room coming out of the door the basket comes out about an inch with the surround here at an inch and 3/8 puts this right at the same as the speaker that means I think the simple solution for this is to just make a panel that spaces this speaker out an inch will roll the window down to just double check with this at one inch it clears the window by about a quarter of an inch we have nothing to worry about this window also doesn't move any so we don't have to worry about any window swing it's a newer car I didn't think we would one of the things we do have is this guy right here this is to add a speaker to the Honda's it's only a half-inch thick though but it's designed to mount the same way it has the same clips in the bottom it allows you to put a screw here in the top and it'll snap into place our speaker will also fit in this mount but it's just not tall enough but that does give us an idea we basically just need this same shape but we needed an inch thick we also need some way to attach it to the door these clips though really cool for this lightweight speaker this speaker weighs a lot more and is going to be moving a lot more - we're gonna get a lot more bass out of this speaker and we were getting out of this one being able to copy this shape and just make it bigger does seem like a good idea so we can use this for our template having to make this template gives me a good opportunity to talk to you about something that I often talk about when I'm conversing with other industry professionals and that is a business model five stars not mine I'm just doing Staller that's why I'm doing this video the owner of five star doesn't like to do custom he doesn't want to be building cars he has a business model built around that the custom we do is integration into factory we're not going to be doing full trunk flushes so I have done that in the past and here are a few pictures [Music] and what you see behind me is something you'd see in a full custom fab we have all the same tools we have two routers stands set up here we have a full vacuum system we have a table saw we have a panel saw we have a plexi bender and then something we're just adding in recently is a third router lift and the reason why we're adding that because we're using the new mobile solutions animal system more and more of these factory speakers are coming and they look like this where they have a taper to them we want to make sure that the speaker's we built have that same taper to build those panels it takes up a lot of room you have you need a lot more movement than you would up against the wall along with all these stationary tools we also have a full assortment of hand tools drill press anders scroll saws basically anything we could need to do full fabrication we just don't do it in a sense that we're building out the trunk of a car something to note about these tools these are all my tools the shop owns two tools in the store they own the paddle saw and they own the air compressor everything else I've purchased myself in order to make sure that we operate at the highest level possible for what it is that we do today we just need to do some replication we want to take this to an inch to fabricate that we're going to use this stuff here it's called centra it's a blown PVC we're going to cut four of these out and stack them on top of each other to get them to the desired depth that we need for those speakers because we only work in plastics all the blades and all our saws are specifically designed just for cutting plastic if we cut with them it dulls them instantly we know this because we found out the hard way back to fees on top of one another so we use a thin double-sided tape to do that also known as template tape [Music] [Music] I'll go ahead and cut off any excess tape that is around here we don't want to become DUP into our outer bearing because we are gonna be using both inside and outside of this template we'll drill a hole in the center before I get started I like to check my bearings to make sure that they haven't seized up from the time before just rolling to make sure that they're still spin and that there's nothing on the bearing we also want to check the height to make sure that we have ample clearance all the way around because we're going to be going inside and out far as that goes I like to start with the inside first and then move on to the outside that way I have a bigger piece to hold on to while I'm doing that and then a smaller piece and the end one of the things I didn't mention before we started is in that bearing if we notice right here there's this notch if the bearing is too high it's gonna eat that up so you want to make sure when you're doing it you check all sides kind of do a general like look around before we make the second one go ahead and pop this one off and do a test fitting to make sure that it actually fits the speaker does have a logo and you may or may not be able to see it through the door well what that means is this panel is going to attach to the door the speaker is going to attach to the panel we don't want to put the screws where they're going to get in the way of each other there's a hole here from the factory that we're not going to be reusing or mounting it we're going to mark our screw holes in the top down left right position and we'll use these corner spots here to mount this to the door let's go take it over to the car and double-check all right so this fits perfect pull it back apart the tape is not made to hold this thing in place and though the screws once put in will hold it in place we're just gonna put a quick bead of CA glue on here to hold these two together moving around just a little bit to make sure you get the glue everywhere it needs to be now CA glue requires an activator in order to have it stick together for this we'll be using the aerosol let it set for a couple minutes to dry and then we'll drill our holes one of the things working with plastic is you should always drill your holes don't just drill right into it it doesn't like that well pre-drill the holes that the speaker is gonna screw into then we put some bigger holes that the bolts that are gonna pass through will screw into we need this to be perfectly flat on the top so we'll also add in a little countersink here we want to make sure that we went in deep enough for these to fit in and we did because we want to make sure like I said that this is perfectly flat on here now we're gonna fasten these in the door is we're gonna use these guys right here this is called a nut cert it's basically a rivet this area here is designed to crush a thread into a tool and then once the tools apply it crushes them into the metal and what that gives you is a screw in that is reusable so you can screw it in and unscrew it as many times as you want makes servicing the vehicle super easy if need be and of course it looks a lot nicer than just putting a drywall screw or a self Tapper in to the vehicle so nuts certs have become super popular for this installation we're gonna use this guy here which is you pneumatic version of it because we can easily get to it it's in a door however there are some situations we want to use it that this obviously won't fit into for that we have this here which is designed to attach the end of a drill this gives us length so if we need to go down into an engine bay or over into a side panel or we just generally need reach we can use this guy here and some applications we don't have a lot of height we need to get in like this and squeeze and the most popular version is this one here put it in location and you squeeze and apply the nutsert having a variety of tools that perform the same task just in different ways is helpful to make the installation the way we want it to be in the end one last step that we want to do to this panel before we take it over the car is apply a thin layer of foam to the backside of it and I mean thin layer of foam we use 1/32 of an inch foam on the back in front of all our panels that are going to attach to a car for a speaker we've tried all different sizes we ordered an eighth inch sixteenth of an inch and the problem we found is that speakers like this that are made out of a composite material usually are thinner than this of course but they twist and they bow around where the screw would go in obviously that can't be good for the prolonged performance of the driver so we settled on this size in order to avoid that we're just put it on the back first so that we can get this attached and then once we go to add in the speaker we'll add it onto here let's head over to the car and get this fastened take our factory adapter here and we have a grease pencil we want to just mark where this is going to end up now we can line up ours and we just want to score where we need to drill holes thread the nutsert onto the gun push then back it out of the hole and repeat the process and then slowly work your way around don't tighten them all the way all at once I add in our piece of foam front of the speaker now the other thing I did when I was marking this for where I want the speaker to go I put marks on tops and sides that's to show where the hole is that we drilled if we just had a mark on the front after putting the foam on you'd never see it the next thing we want to do is kind of a crucial step we want to go ahead and screw the speaker in not permanently but just screw it into place the reason for doing this is so that we can put the door panel on and make sure that it clears and that the speaker isn't rubbing at all so take a bright light and shine it into the door panel and what you want to do is see where the midbass is now that you know that you're not gonna have any hiccups once you're done with the door panel putting it back on you could remove it back out one other thing that we're gonna add to this speaker is faster if you'll notice here on this factory speaker it has this layer of foam and what that's designed to do is when it goes back into the door panel it goes into a cavity and this gasket allows all the energy that this little guy is creating to come through that grille the speaker we just built it doesn't have that what we're gonna be using as a product called a fast ring it comes in three pieces that do three different things the first piece is this front piece and this is designed to mimic this gasket it comes bigger than it needs to be so that you can actually cut this to length because we're only gonna need this small amount here again we're gonna mount it to the door like this so we'll cut it and that will help our speaker couple with the door panel then you have two back pieces this one is designed to go into the door panel to help absorb vibration and then this piece here is designed to focus that energy into the absorbing panel now how these three pieces work take this piece here it's going to go in and stick to the back of the door panel here the skinnier one is gonna go in and mount to the inside of the door there again it may need to be cut depending on where the window comes down and in this case it's gonna need to be cut probably to about an inch then the front piece we're going to use to attach around the outside of our speaker bracket you don't want to stick it to the outside of the speaker because if you have to replace the speaker you would then have to replace the fast ring it's foam it easily stretches into place and then you just keep wanting to push it until it gets on to the middle like this you need to just trim this up about a quarter of an inch to do that have a sharp razor blade work your way around gradually and now it will match up to that factory depth you definitely want to trim this you don't want to leave it full-length what will happen is if it's too long it will actually roll in on the speaker and crush into the surround of the speaker and that'll damage the speaker for the back you're gonna do the same back panels is the exact same idea if this thing is too thick or if there's a bar behind that runs across here you just want to cut this to the appropriate length our window comes in to the inside of the door this guy mounted all the way into the back we're not gonna have that problem line it up with the center of the hole and just push it into place and what you'll end up with is something that looks like this one of the nice things of getting this on before you put the speaker in is that you'll know that you'll be able to get the speaker back out if you should ever have to services we said we're doing a set of components in this door and that means we have the crossover to contend with this little cool box here more and more speakers are breaking this into their dedicated pieces they're doing away with the box which as an installer is like yeah right in this case we don't have that there's a couple different options as we can do one of those is mounting the crossover in the vehicle somewhere that can be tricky the reason for that is this guy right here the door boot this is what passes the wires from the inside of the car to the door putting in the car manufacturer that can be doable or it cannot be doable the reason why some car manufacturers the door clips in it's a straight up plug that it just plugs into and there's no extra wires some cars the plug is in the car it just depends there's a lot of scenarios it's something that you can't run through then you're gonna be mounting that crossover somewhere in the door or somewhere in that door panel over there it doesn't hurt to see if it's something you can do first getting that wire through the door and I can actually reach up into the dash and put my finger in there so that's telling me that the plug is a little bit further back in the dash for that we're just gonna use our standard wire fish and see if I can fish this through Wow we just floss that door means now what we'll do is we'll mount the crossover somewhere in the card we'll just have to find a location do it we'll make a bracket mounted into place if we weren't so lucky what would we have done now looking at this door panel there's not a huge amount of options we have this guy here which really is just taking up space but that gives us this this crossover fits perfectly in here what we would have done is we would have made a bracket that allows us to mount this crossover right here and then we would have ran the wires up through this channel attaching them along the way to these screw points well we get four that are these right here it's a 6 channel waterproof connector and we put this right next to where the switch panel is so that it can be unplugged that way when they need to go and take the door panel off for service they don't have to mess with our crossover mount it doesn't fall out of the door doesn't do anything silly it's permanently affixed into the door panel the dealership or anyone that has to work on it they don't have to mess with our work keeps it nice and clean and out of the way like I said we don't have to worry about out this one back to the door panel for a minute and what we found is that this area here and these overlapping panels they like to which is really kind of annoying we add sound treatment now to prevent that and we've had a lot of success with it so [Music] looking at the sale panel with the tweeter mounted into it the tweeter that's in here is a little bit smaller than the one we're going to do we have to retain this factory look we're not making sail panels here he wants it mounted in from behind it looks factory the way they've designed this panel is that there's three clips holding it on as well as these three welded plastic points to get this apart now the tweeter just to get it out it is just held in place by a couple clips and then it will come out you can see this guy here is a little bit smaller than our tweeter that means ours is just not going to snap into place and be super simple thinking is I need to get these two pieces separated see if it even fits in the hole meaning that it lines up or if it's too big to get these two apart they plastic welded them together so we're just going to plastic weld them apart now once we get the two pieces apart we have the mounting bracket and our tweeter is still a little too big for this whole fact it's about the same size as this hole what the real question is doesn't marriage up to this hole and to see that we need to go ahead and pull this grille off bring our tweeter up from the backside it actually fits perfect all we need to figure out a way to get this tweeter to suspend right there and also this to snap back in place let's see what this looks like when this is inside of here and it mounts up flush with this internal lip let's start by making this hole as big as possible size of these tweeters there's two little teeth that stick down I want to draw them on here so I know where they're I'm also thinking I can remove this outside here and bring this down about an eighth of an inch and my tweeter will snap right into place grinding away some of that to make room for this to snap in let's put it back into it so odd here snapped right in look at that what I'm thinking we'll do is we'll add screws to where those factory weld points were so that we can take this apart if we need to now we don't have to worry about the tweeter twisting it all those two little pieces that stuck down and I groove those in so the tweeter just stays mounted in those little holes it's not glued in there so I don't have to worry about you know oh we got to break all this glue off so it'll stay put so will uses a small quarter inch screw with a star locking washer on it now the last thing we want to do is put a clip on here so that like the factory it just um plugs once you're done soldering and you put your heat shrink on you want to wait a couple minutes in order for this stuff to dry and become nice and hard before you put your tape over it it's still kind of gooey and you don't need the two of them like sticking together or bending in some strange way now as far as the tape we're using we use Tessa tape there's two different types of Tessa tape you have the interior fuzzy style and you have the exterior non fuzzy style one you can easily rip the other one you have to cut with a pair of scissors we live in Florida this stuff here this doesn't hold up this well we primarily use the exterior Tessa tape on everything we do because it doesn't get all gummy and gooey put a zip tie in to hold the wire in place so that it doesn't get yanked out and there we go tweeters all set factory mount snap right back in place we have the door back together we were able to run in two new wires for our crossover so we have a new mid-range wire in place here all set and ready to plug into the speaker and we have the new tweeter wire here that we added our clip on so that if this needs to come off for any reason it's still serviceable the last step is to get that mid-range screwed in and get this door panel back on the back of the door has all its sound treatment back on it so that finishes up the process for the front doors Mike Lee team phantom Florida endorsing Dean's videos and all his content and installer of the year we love you Dean great job buddy because we know this is a NC and previously we found it up behind the glovebox it seems like a good enough place to start on this - assembly now they have this nice piece of painted material up here we don't want to have anything happen to that so we put some blue tape over it there's a panel here that looks like it needs to be removed we'll take our same panel to and the ANSI Mongol is exactly where I remember it so located right up here below the airbag but above the glovebox is the module on these particular vehicles in order to bypass it all you have to do is unplug it we don't want it to get plugged back in by accidents we're actually going to move it out of the way and zip tie it to this harness here if a mechanic or something like that or it's working on the car they don't go oh and click it in and then everything goes crazy another of the ANSI sorted out it's time to move on to get to the brain of the radio we don't necessarily need to get to this cuz this is just a touch panel we need to get behind the radio and get to the plug so we can do some testing to do that there's some side panels here that need to be removed you have to pull out the push-to-start and then this whole panel will come out and unplug once we've gotten to the actual radio brain we can go ahead and plug these panels back in at this point we will be turning on and off the key because we need to do some sound testing one of the reasons why normal radio will have such a hard time coming in here if the radios actually shaped to where it's facing down so normally these would be going into the dash and now they're not they're going straight up and down that's actually not the end of the world because some radios are becoming to pieces meaning the screen and the brain are two totally different parts in which case we can mount the screen up top and the radio down below what we just need is the part that talks to the car which there are companies out there that are developing what I need out of this is the factory harness the one that the speakers are in that's the one we need in order to integrate our system located all the way in the back behind all this there is a gray plug that one right there one of the nice things about this becoming more and more popular meaning integrating into the factory radio and those same companies that are coming up with solutions are coming up with harnesses for those solutions what we have here is a tee harness one that will plug into the radio and one that will plug into the factory harness and it gives us our speaker level output and then we can tie into these for our signal without having to get into the dash and cut that harness up we don't want to do this a brand new car to use this this comes with a bunch of wiring that we won't be using we're not gonna be using the product this attaches to once we validate all our testing we'll go ahead and pull this all apart and just have the wires that we need but for now we're just going to get this plugged into the back of the radio or in this case the bottom of the radio because the manufacturers really don't want us to do what we're doing in this car they've gone ahead and made things increasingly difficult for us one of the things that they've added into the mix is what's called load resistance low resistance is the speaker connected to the radio it sees that as a load when that load goes away that channel shuts off because it feels there could be something wrong in order to protect itself and not blow off it just turns it off the other side effect to that is is that load also smooths out the sound of the amplifier in some cases when you don't have that load on there the amplifier ramps up and can cause the tweeters to make funny high frequency noises you have to be real careful there there are ways to test for that and we're going to do that now we also want to make sure that there is in fact no amplifier and that's gonna be the first test we do so let's head over to the toolbox and grab some tools the first thing we want to grab is just a tone generator what a tone generator is designed to do just that it creates a tone and we should hear it in the speakers so that's telling us right away we have no amplifier now we want to grab the RTA not to perform this test this RT is connected to the drivers door that does not have any load resistance on it from an e speaker this one is connected to the passion door which is active right now and what we want to do is see if there's any differences on both left and right appeared to be playing the exact same we can look at our peak light indicators here and see if they match and they do we're also looking at the signal that's coming out of the radio there's a huge hump here dip here dip here and then some bass roll off through there it's not the best thing I've ever seen but then again it's not the worst we can EQ it and fix that now one of the tests that we need to perform on the output of the radio is how much voltage is coming out of the radio that's going to be going into the input of our amplifier this is a very important piece of information to know you don't want to put too much voltage in for example if it will only take six volts of input and you're ten volts of input you're going to hurt the amplifier to test for this we're going to play a 1000 Hertz test tone out of the radio we're going to use our digital multimeter here set to AC turn it up and see what happens now make sure when you do this test you have your speaker's disconnected [Applause] [Music] so it's topping off between nine and three quarters and ten volts which is in the operating range of the amplifier we're gonna put in we're good there while we're testing the output voltage another test we want to do is something called DC offset DC offset is something that has become kind of known for turning on an amplifier when you're doing an install like this there's a six volt DC output that comes from the radio when it turns on and the amplifier or high-level or DSP or whatever it is you're using is designed to see that and turn itself on and then when it goes away it turns itself off we want to test for that because if it doesn't have it then we need to find a different way to turn on our amplifier you simply take your ground probe and attach it to negative and then me personally I like to use the signals positive output I'll attach my red probe to that set it to DC and we'll turn the car on and immediately we see voltage going up and just stop somewhere right before or at six volts as we can see the radio is on but the audio is off and this is where this gets tricky because a lot of things still pass through the audio section of the radio such as Bluetooth navigation which still has to function even though there is no source plane on the radio we still see this current now we'll turn the car back off and there we go it drops out to nothing another thing that kind of freaks people out with DC offset you can easily just like hit on lock on the key fob or pull up on the handle and it'll wake the car up and turn on the DC offset because the radio is prepping itself to do something when it doesn't see anything then it'll go back to sleep we get calls all the time for people going dude my amp never shuts off my amp never shuts off whoa wait a minute force it shuts off no no every time I open the door it's on so you say do me a favor shut the door sit in the car and then tell me if your amp shuts off for this particular install there's nothing too crazy that we have to do it's just for channel output from the radio which is what was it has the basic system however this could have got a lot more interesting if it would have had the amplified system and we would have had to do something something is where you take two speakers such as a tweeter and a mid-range and blend the two of them together to create one signal there's some attenuation that needs to be done between them sometimes they do filtering between the two can cause us heartache we can test for that as well with this device here which is a face summer that allows us to feed both the tweeter in the mid-range or whatever channels is that we want to bring together and flip the switches on at the same time looking at the RTA and we can see what's going on see if there's any dips or if there's any bumps that may cause problems and that we'll have to address in the tune itself we're not gonna have those problems with this so it doesn't look like it needs any load resisting now we have a clear path how we're gonna get signal out of the radio we need to do now figure out how we're gonna mount the amplifier underneath this seat and get that built so we can get it into the car this is the amplifier as you see there's a nice shelf here we want to bring this up high like that off of the floor so that this format will still go back in and also that vent will still blow forward there is plenty of room in which we can do that so we're going to take some measurements we're gonna make a t-shape it goes across between these two and then goes forward it is going to probably tongue into this area here and use that as the lock for the front mount of the amplifier make this amplifier mount we're gonna make it out of a VF EPS is strong and rigid we're gonna use quarter inch the basic shape we're going after something that's gonna resemble this I'm hoping to add in this little extra area here that's gonna go where the vent is it's going to dip down here go lower then dip back up then the last thing we might do I don't know yet is add a front panel to cover where the controls are on the amplifier now that said over to saw and cut some plastic we need to draw our basic shape on this abs has this textured side on one side and a shiny flat side on the other I like to draw my layout on the backside we've already gone ahead and found our center point and also our two narrow spots we need to add in the tees these two areas right here we do need to remove while we were over there cutting this out we also went ahead and add a round over to this front lip here and all across this top the reason why we went ahead and did it now before we actually get to our final shape is that this isn't going to change here across the front and on the sides and once the Bend goes into this we're not going to be able to router it now as far as the height goes we need to get it about a half inch so we're going to use this piece of Sentra as a shape and then we'll use D two pieces to actually pinch and round it in to heat up our corners we simply just use a torch because we're actually going to be bending about an inch and if we were to just put it on to the plexi bender it wouldn't give us the double Bend we need now we just want to kind of push it into place while holding the top down and then we wait because you know we have to wait for it to cool down now once it becomes rigid like that actually happens pretty fast it'll still be extremely hot but we can take it over and put water on it to cool it down or repeat the process on this other side now the next step is to remove the area that will allow us to Tong in to where the air vent is and that is this spot here in this spot here and this is what we ended up with we also went ahead and rounded this over as well and did a full round over on this side so that it will slide into place now let's take this into the car so that's exactly what we're looking for what we need to do now is drill out these holes here make an indention for this and that on both sides that should work we want to screw the bolts all the way into place to test fit this because if it's loose there could be play you want to make sure that this is your final product now we'll go ahead and slide the seat back see if it rubs on the amplifier because we planned accordingly that light is the top of the amplifier we have about an inch of gap above the amplifier so we took good measurements now we need to get this back out and wired up now speaking of wiring there's a couple things we're doing differently that we didn't talk about this morning as far as the wiring goes because we've been able to run wires into the doors we're gonna mount the crossovers inside like we did talked about for that we're going to make a mount up here in behind the glovebox in this area there's a lot of room up in here put both crossovers up in here and then run wires out to the speaker's now one more thing I want to do before we get to the wiring is I saw where this was sitting back there and he's got two kids and I am worried about them kicking this we're going to make a panel that sits here we're gonna put these style nut certs into here these are gonna screw in and then this will screw into there and that will hold that up against the amplifier and also you can unscrew it and screw it as many times as you like so this amplifier is two inches tall we're gonna go all the way across we'll just go 12 so I need 12 and a half by two inches [Applause] now I want this right up against the amplifier because when these kids kick I don't want this thing to go anywhere I don't want it to break off screw these in they have an Allen head input we have a nice panel nice and rigid kiddies can kick the crap out of it we've also scented these flush so that they don't interfere with the floor mat one of the things that unique to this particular amplifier is that it has no fuses on it which isn't all that unique per se they give you this with these instructions telling you that this needs to be mounted back by the amplifier so you need one under the hood and you need one back by the amplifier just in case you're one of those people that don't read the instructions they make it abundantly clear that read those what that means is that somewhere on this we need to put this fuse holder this is gonna be straight across here so we don't really have that room I don't want to put it here so looking at the car it could amount right here below the amp board something where the amp rise up like this I have a little bit of room here so I can make a piece of plaster that comes off here at an L and this attaches to just like that and then there's enough room here for the wire to come up and go into the amplifier and this of course will go off into the car to go to the battery so now we need to fabricate this little L bracket here now what I want to do is put something underneath it to kind of get an idea of how high it needs to be so I can get my measurements that's about the right height this is what I'm looking at and I've gone ahead and round over these sides again but not this because this is gonna need to screw in because this is a longer piece and it needs to be very fine where the bend is we're actually going to cut a sixteenth of an inch in here as a marker once hot and there we go we have the amplifier mounted the fuse holder mount we're gonna do the final fit to make sure this all goes in the way it's supposed to and then we'll start getting our wires attached as you can see the fuse holder is mounted over there this kick panel will keep everyone out we still have room up underneath we still get this out fairly simple seat will slide back and when the seats back all you'll see is this right here this amplifier has the ability to do a high level input or a low level input it's a simple switch on the amplifier and it's done via the RCA s there's no external input what we found works best for us are these they're made from stinger it's a pigtail RCA that has speaker wires on one end and a male RCA on the other we can attach these to wiring and run them directly up into the dash for this we're also putting in a bass knob power is gonna be on this side and go up the driver side of the car then all the signals gonna go out this way over to the passenger side of the car along with this sub wire coming across these are going to come up and go into the dash this way so probably just straight over and turn power wire will loop around here come and attach and here in the ground may follow it the same way and come down 12 this first ground is second you might put them up on a vertical to bring them around into this well regardless let's go ahead and get some wire and start getting some stuff in I'm gonna start from this side and work my way across that way first thing here is the subwoofer wire for that we're gonna be running a 12 gauge wire that's going to go from here all the way into the trunk so we're gonna need about 10 feet of 12 gauge for all the wire we're gonna run through this install it's all gonna be covered in either some form of sleeving or it's gonna be insulated in some form of tape it just gives it a more finished look and of course protects the wire because we need this to come out of the amplifier and immediately take a turn we want to stagger the wire tips here as you can see when you bend the wire like this one immediately becomes longer than the other we want to avoid that because then they don't go in properly we'll just shorten that one make sure that they're both the same length now that they're turned because this type of terminal is a set screw and twist down if you just put the raw wire in there it's terr they're all wire we use our product called a ferrule and what it's designed to do is sleeve over the wire to protect that and they have a tool that crimps it into place put some heat shrink over the ends now the reason I'm putting this tape here is because now what we're going to do is we're going to drill zip tie holes extremely close to this so that this guy can get pulled in nice and tight and we don't want the drill to scratch it because this is going to be a floating amp rack we can put our zip tie heads that's this bigger area here on the bottom of the amp rack because there's gonna be nothing there to hit them cut them floss using a set of flush cutters otherwise they will hurt you anytime you have a fuse holder that comes in a kit always tighten the fuse you don't know if the guy tighten it up you might have been having a bad day at the factory so make sure you tighten it it's loose it's going to vibrate around and it's going to burn the wire and just like the smaller wire we have a feel for it and then when we add our heat shrink we have custom heat shrink made that has our logo on it and of course they're all the right colors so that people know who put it in once it's cool to the touch tighten it down we went ahead and also made up the ground version so we'll do the same thing this line here's where the wire has to stop thinking that if I stack them on top of one another they'll both do the turn here I might not this right here so that the wire turns better but let's get this front half done first both wires are sneaking around stacked on top one on there keeps that footprint small and then they're looping around attaching in here the ground when it loops around it stacks on top of these and uses that same zip tie so now they're both going to catch up with on another and go into the car we put heat shrink on the ends of all our RCA so we know what channel is which we use the standard color purple green gray white to get signal from the radio to these RCA's we're gonna use a product called speed wire it's a nine conductor wire that has the same colors that we have here and it also has a remote turn on now even though we're not going to be using the remote turn on in this installation we are going to go ahead and hook it up so that if something is to happen we will have it already pre-wired in the amplifier just need to solder in our like pairs so wipe the white credit gray the other thing that makes is very nice doing it this way when we were doing our testing there's a plug that's on the harness we're gonna be using to allow you to plug in your speakers that plug we can remove from the harness and attach to our speed wire that will allow us to just simply plug in our speed wire behind the radio we won't have to do any soldering or tight connection there so I took a quick moment to the look at the car to figure out which way I wanted to route these wires if I wanted to come this way or if I wanted to come this way and turn like this and I've decided that this would be the best course so now we're gonna bring this wire around and it will also follow suit like that and then our speaker wires will do the same thing they'll come down this Center path right here doing that we're gonna be using these holes the same holes we're gonna be using for this so they're gonna be sharing a hole so when you do that you have to be real careful on where the head goes on the back here we've already done that where the moat turn-on runs next to the sub wire and you notice the way the two heads are you have to make sure that they keep going in that same direction could draw a hole here if we want it and lock in place and just keep going this way and have no issues if we have to go this way you always have to start like this and then move your way out you'd remove these and replace them we have a white and gray 16 gauge that we've covered in shielding now we're gonna apply the ferals to the end as well as color coated heat shrink to match the corner of the car that it's going putting the speaker wire and we don't want to over tighten it we just want to lock it in place so like as soon as it hits stop there because we're still gonna have to do our gain adjustment on this and we have to take our speaker wires off to do that [Music] and then we have it the amplifier is all set and ready to get installed the car one of the things to think about when you are putting the zip ties in place where we soldered these wires together here we want to make sure we don't put a zip tie over that solder joint put it before it put it after it don't put it at the solder point you don't want to crush that down tight with a zip tie now one of the things I'm told unique is about our install is the way we actually run wires I build the amplifier and Pratt put it in the car and run my wires out to everything in the car I know a lot of installers will run the wires to a central location sit in a very uncomfortable place for many hours and wire it up when I was doing all my custom fabrication it was easier to put the amplifiers in after you cover the pieces and build out as you go so you could like Legos drop these pieces into the vehicle with the product already on it wire zip-tied up that is evolved on into what we're doing now where we're making these complex shapes to mount amplifiers in the vehicle zip tying the wires into location and getting it nice and pretty on the bench and then running them forward into the car one of the nice side effects is we spend less time in the vehicle because we're doing all the work here on the bench and here's some more examples of my amplifier wiring techniques [Music] hello everyone my name is Bill Freeman I'm a fem AG sales I'm the territory manager here in Tampa Florida and I would like to tell you about a great installer this installer is Dean back Dean is one of the best at his craft and that craft his installation he's meticulous and borderline OCD he studies everything about every product and his technical knowledge is unsurpassed by anyone I've ever met he's also a giver one that takes many hours out of the day to promote teach mentor worldwide with his 5-star car stereo show starting on a rear-seat disassembly especially where you're planning on camping out in there for a while doing sound treatment it's best practice to just go ahead and remove the whole back seat top and bottom even if it folds down remove it you don't want to sit on the back of the seat the seats aren't made all that great these hinges aren't super strong they're not made for someone to be sitting on them and it's a simple enough task of just removing them it's like three bolts in this car once removed you can sit back here all you want now if you're worried about your knees because sometimes these back areas are sharp use a moving clock put down here on the bottom and you won't have to worry about that this hunt is nice enough to actually already have a cloth floor Thank You Honda unlike the front speaker the rear speaker here is a tad bit thinner for this we only need to use one layer of half-inch to get the desired height that we you want it because if you push the foam down it's about a half-inch now just like the front we're also gonna put our fast rings around the outside we're just obviously we can't do anything for the backside now one tip when putting in your sound treatment don't cover up the factory wiring pull it out and clip it back into place this still has to be serviced after we're done playing with it we need to make sure that it's capable of doing that don't cover up any holes make sure you leave areas where if there's a clip you can clip it back in just like here hit the surface make sure what you're doing is actually making a difference this is only half of the sound treatment we're doing to this we're also going to be doing the piece of plastic that goes over it and for that we'll be using a different style it's gonna have a foam backing along with a butyl we've added in our pads to this to make this a lot more rigid so it's not going to vibrate and then we've added our fast drinks and cut them to length with the rear deck when it goes back on all that acoustic energy will be forced up through the rear deck and if you're somebody that likes roof fill you're gonna be really happy so even though we don't build boxes here in the actual install Bay we do have a facility that builds the boxes for us we just have to send them a blueprint of what we want and they'll go ahead and build it so we have to still figure out what we want the box to look like how much airspace we want and all the stuff that goes into actual the box what I like to do is draw a basic outline of what I want the box to look like the down firing box for a subwoofer it's a very common application that we do here because we have a lot of people like this gentleman that want cargo space and they have stuff to put in their cars we also do a lot of jeeps and these work really well in jeeps as well so we have a basic shape what we need to do now is just add in the numbers so that this box can be built for us what we're trying to do is hit the target one cubic foot of air space for this woofer it's just a matter of doing the math want the box to be about 24 25 inches long we don't want it to get too wide here I'm thinking max of 15 and a half and now we just need to figure out how high it can be I also like to have a minimum of two inches on my legs on the bottom of the box that way we can add in plastic risers when they're down far and I like to put plastic risers on the bottom of the box especially like in jeeps or something like that where it could possibly get wet I don't want them to soak up the water that's gonna give me roughly five and a half which is my target number was now we know what we can write in on this so that we have the measurements that they can take and build off of this know what I'll do is I'll take a picture of this send it over to our guy who build the box for me and deliver it to me by the end of the day now we have to mount the sub knob now this is a big sub table it's almost as big as like a DRC DSP controller now a customer has criteria as far as what we can do with this he wants to be able to access it but he doesn't want to modify any of the existing panels like there was one spot behind the cupholders that it could have gone so that left us one other spot for which is here in the pocket below the factory USB it's not in too deep so you still have access to it looking at the pocket it looks like it this top piece comes off after removing the two screws let's give it a go so now that we have it apart and I'm looking at this and this is an okay position for it but this area up here looks way more appealing but the USBs here what I think we might be able to do is move the USB down to here now the only problem with doing that is the way that this USB integrates in with the car it is super tight it was very hard to get this out of here so we'd have to come up with a way that makes this easy to get to I think by moving it back an inch might make it okay but we will have to cut a tunnel in here to do it so that we can fish the wire through pull it out the front and snap this in all at once I'm thinking what I can do is take the thicker 1 inch plastic that we have and just tunnel in it a groove that this whole piece will assemble itself into so we have this thicker stuff here which if I hold it up to it it's a little bit bigger which is perfect now I could use the router just taut on the groove in here but it's gonna be l-shaped on either side and I feel the table-saw would be more appropriate for that [Music] so we've made the tunnel wide enough to fit in but now we have this top portion that we have to cut grooves for so we have it fitting in perfect now what we need to do is cut the rear to length so that it'll snug up in there [Music] fits in there pretty good I think I just need to shave 1/8 of an inch here off at the back cuz I want to tuck up in there a little bit that gets us right in there what I want to do is I want to finish off the front because I need this to snap into place I can't just attach it like this and then put the plug in while this is assembled I need to pull the plug through and then have it clip in that's the only way that this is gonna work so I'm gonna cut a face out of eighth inch and attach it to this well we want to make sure that this does its locks in place what still comes out because to service this you're gonna have to pop it off here from the front if you use a zip tie to smear the glue around and get it all in all the little nooks and crannies now that the glue is dried I'm gonna take it over to the router for this cup he's here I'll just take it over to the sander and sand it wash with this piece I went ahead and scented this whole area smooth and will apply some color dye to it so that it's black like this while that paint is drying we'll go ahead and get this hole cut out so that we'll start by covering it with blue tape we'll take our grease pencil and Mark the area that the old mount was in so we know what we have to cover we're going to cut this hole out nice and flush snaps right into place finish this up let's go ahead and get our USB mounted backing plate put the tape on here so that I have a guide for where I'm going to drill my holes to screw this in now because I won't be gluing this in place I'm going to be using this tessa double-sided tape it's super thin and it's super sticky and we use it anytime we have to tape plastic together well the only way I've left to do is cut a groove in here for us to drop the wire into it's like it was made to be there very cool hi I'm gonna get this put back together hello everybody John snide with dynamic sales and marketing we're up from here in Florida and I wanted to give my support for Dean back I've known Dean for quite a few years but I not many guys if any that I ever bump into has the passion for the mobile electronics like this guy does he eats sleeps drinks it at all hours of the day the drive he has and the knowledge he's out looking for and to help the consumer to industry guys has been really helpful I need more guys like him the industry needs more guys like him really appreciate it looking for the support for Dean thank you placement of the fuse holder underneath the hood is crucial when installing any form of 12-volt product your motor has to be still serviceable meaning you have to be able to get to all these you have to work on the engine you have to be able take the battery out of the car we mount all our fuse holders using quarter-inch abs somewhere in the area of the battery Honda's aren't the most trickiest because they usually have room around their batteries and they have a long battery mount that means we can make a abs panel that's going to put the fuse holder right in this area here also it makes this fuse holder unique I like to use it is the base comes off means that they can remove the panel we're putting in and set this aside if they need to or move it over to the side why they need to do any work on the battery so here's the shape that we've come up with we'll put a washer on to the battery then the piece of ABS another washer tighten it down into place see it clears everything we needed to clear just get our short power wire run into here we like to use red it's leaving between the fuse holder in the battery to clearly indicate where our fuses these crossovers are gonna go as I said earlier they're gonna go somewhere in the glove box and fernanda's been the and he's giving me a couple ideas and we were concentrating over here in the corner like trying to build something and that's a good idea but then I laid on my back and I looked up and there's a ton of room looking up and they're really nice thing too is that the bolts that hold the a and C Mike in is a wonderful place that we can use to actually screw in our bracket to what we're thinking is we're gonna make a shape similar to that of what we just made for underneath the hood at the battery we do have to notch one side to clear the air vent but once that's in make the L shape here and we'll bend this a little bit so that it'll go up in place and then we can use the and C bolts to attach our crossover mount that way it's nice and secure in the dash and we'll sit like this on the panel what I need to do now is cut two grooves here and here so that this will slide in between the ANC module and the mounting bracket final test [Music] yeah here take a look the two bolts here from the module that piece of ABS goes in will run the wires down and attach it to this existing harness right here I love it when a plan comes together since I'm over here in the - there's one piece that I still need to put together and that's the harness that we have plugged in right now that t harness I need to unplug it strip off all the wiring and make that cleaned up so that we can use it for this application now let's head over to the bench installing right now is definitely a lot different than when I started back then you just had catalogs and you'd look through catalogs and you'd find parts and every now and then you'd get a phone call from somebody that sold parts it's not like that anymore nowadays you spend tons of time searching the internet for parts so that you don't have to damage factory parts case in point this nice tea harness right here now this manufacturer doesn't intend us to do what we're doing with it but that's okay all we want is these two ends right here that's it that's all we need we'll figure out the rest on our own I was buying harnesses from Europe because they needed them for Bluetooth it's the same harness there again I just need the wires so we were bringing in European harnesses for the American cars so that we could integrate in and not have to cut the harness luckily for us the owner of the store is down with doing that he sees value in it and he can express that to the customers especially on something like this it's a 2019 you definitely don't want to start cutting harnesses in this car once we remove their power wiring we're going to go ahead and cut this and reassemble it [Music] and we'll repeat that on all these wires that had their crimps on them we were talking earlier we were going to be able to add the clip that was in the car to the speed wires when we were doing testing we had these two clipped together like this this is the harness I want to remove and attach to it to do that I will use my Delphi deepening tool and for this it's pretty simple there's just a groove you just pop in push and it comes right out now when this end is why you have one off to the plug and you have what would have allowed you to loop it through I want to keep this long end and reattach this on to here is in the - it's extremely tight and I want to make sure my connection has plenty of room to get around to do that I'm going to remove the heat shrink so I can cut these off cleanly I'll add some solder to that joint and I'll put a fresh piece of heat shrink over it of course I'm going to do it to the rest of them all set ready to go and pull this off cut these ends off the gear will put it into our shrink wrap bowl so we know where it's at now I'm gonna go ahead and go plug this back into the car and stake this over to where I can get to it so I can attach my speed wire to it got the radio harness plug back in and it was able to run the wire for the speakers all the way over here into the glovebox so the next step is to flip this seat up they finally get this amplifier in place so we can finish running these wires [Music] the amplifier is in place and the wires are all rant power wire went up the center console along with the bass knob wire this is the bass not wire zip-tied in the ground is also located in the center console we retained a factory ground point for that our wire is this braiding along over here that is zip tied into the main wiring harness and then goes up to the firewall hole in the firewall following that main harness and then making the turn into the firewall comes through the firewall lines up underneath this main harness here you can start to see it just there comes around zip ties into place and terminates at the battery far as the other side goes all our speaker wires and signal wires are coming along here into the harness this plastic piece right here they run along and then they come out and stop right here is where our speaker wires are located these are going to attach along with these to our crossover network and then this is the speed wire we just need to add the other plug so that we can plug it in rear speaker and subwoofer wires are running towards the back which we'll get to in a little bit along with the box being down for easy out of the way he also wants it easily removable and he wants all of it removable he also wants to take the wire out of the car he wants us to put a speaker cup in the trunk here so that he can put his wires in and take the whole thing out we're going to mount this somewhere over here on the side to do that we need to make a hole back housing so that this isn't just you know we don't want it to pull out so we have our mobile solutions template to three-quarters plan is to router out this shape and then put a backer on it well you know what let's just head over the router and I'll show you what a plan you want to make sure that when this goes in these beakers slide on terminals aren't going to touch anything this is about the right set here the first thing I want to do is transfer this onto this and then I'll make my circle I screwed in the four screws so that I can make it Center March because on the template it actually has this unhappiness for it so the last thing I want to do is put it back on this so that it's fully encapsulated for that I'm just gonna use some eighth inch that we have I like to use the zip tie to spread the glue around that should be enough of a gap so they can get the 12 gauge behind it the hole is cut in the side they just need to solder this guy into place so the box is in exactly what we wanted we went ahead and added a brace forgot to include that in the drawing so put one on both sides we have a dual 4-ohm subwoofer here and we need a 2 ohm load at the amplifier we're gonna run to 16 gauge over to the subwoofer and what we use this for is to hold our speaker cup while we're soldering on to it let it in a place tip it just the way we like it I also like to add a layer of tape on the inside more for cushion and anything else just in case someone grabs the box and starts shaking it I don't want these wires all flopping around inside of the box nice and padded now the reason why I use two different color wires it's just a mental thing I feel like they should be two different color wires I think if you look at it you'll know you have a clear left or a clear right especially on some of these woofers here or they'll have like a lead here here here it just makes it easier the last thing we want to do to this enclosure is add in a set of half inch plastic risers to the bottom the last piece of the puzzle is a simple 4 wire that's going to go from the side here to the box what we've done is we have put our logo heat shrink on it logo on top that way when you put it in the logo is always on the top and that'll make sure that you get the positive and negative correctly then we'll put it into the box and there again on this side logo on top and he asked for we finished up the wiring in the back we color-coded them and we added clips so that they can be disconnected if need be we also finished all the wiring in behind the glove box we have our connection made for our speed wire and all the crossovers are mounted and zip tied into place he has kids and one of his concerns was the kids ruining it this is with the panel installed go ahead and slide the seat back and now when the kids are in here they're not gonna damage it at all and you still have all that air travel but now that the employers are all ran I want to get this center console back together now me personally I'm anxious to get this USB into place and the base on it plugged in and one of the reasons why it is so difficult in this car is that that USB wire is super short barely comes into the pocket let alone far enough to move anywhere really cool so as you can see here this is the farthest this comes out you have to like snake it into place as you're sliding this back into the dash I went ahead and put one screw in I'm gonna snap the piece on and slide it all back into place success it snaps right into place a big obrigado from Portugal this is Lea speaking to you just want to thank you as a fan and as a peer into the industry I want you to give you a thumbs up for all the good work and it began for Ted to make every day to step up the industry just want to give you a big big thank you bye guys now we're moving on to the next step which is the after test I mean we did the pre test we did the install now we do the after test where we go ahead and we do all our battery of tests to make sure everything is functioning the way we want it to and then we move on from that to the actual tuning of the car first tests that we perform right out of the get-go is the polarity test all right so the bottom one is green green red and the top one is green green red also alright we got green green red perfect when testing the rear speakers little trick you can actually come up from underneath and it should flash the opposite perfect obviously it's gonna do that because this is positive movement that's negative movement and it's sometimes a little bit easier to do it from the trunk side alright we got green green ride last speaker all right we get creamy red so that means that we got it right high five Fernando but that's not the end of the road as far as testing goes at this point we move on to a much more basic test the four corners we just want to make sure that we got all four corners right however we're not gonna do that yet because we're gonna plug the amplifier in the DSP software in this amplifier allows us to test the outputs before we start to tune to make sure everything's right so we're gonna skip that step we want to make sure that the basement trouble and the radio if it has it is all set to flat all right we're on flat there we'll check our balance and fader make sure it's set to flat we want to do is plug in our laptop you power up a DSP DSP amp or anything like that for the first time it's always going to want to do a software update let it do it you definitely don't want to mess around with something that's not up-to-date and will create all kinds of problems for you furthermore update successful select okay every DSP every DSP amp is going to ask you configure it configure it is the process it takes to direct the sound that's coming into the amplifier to the outputs of the amplifier every DSP software does it a little bit differently we try to download and play with as many DSP software's as we can get our hands on because we don't know what the customer is gonna walk in the door with and we want to be prepared for that for this particular amplifier it's asking me the question fader on fader off we want fader on we're doing rear speakers and we're I'm gonna be getting the subwoofer from no we looked at both the front and rear on the RTA and they were the same on this page this is where it's gonna allow us to identify the speakers makes a toning south this drivers front yes there should be three yes I should be the four yep there should be two yep I really like this feature because it allows us to identify what the amplifier is seen right away the next piece of information this is asking for is that time alignment those measurements we got at the beginning of this video this could be the hard part depending on the DSP that you're working with you really have to read the owners manual on this one depending on the DSP some DSPs will do the calculations for you so I can just type in my inches and we'll do the conversion from inches to milliseconds some DSP processors want you to zero out meaning take and subtract the farthest one from each one of them giving you a smaller number and then you enter that number in some of them actually want you to figure out the milliseconds so this is one of those things where figuring out the DSP does take a little bit of time this one all we do is have to enter in the numbers because we're not doing a active system we're doing a passive system we want to use the measurement from the midbass in the door and not the tweeter however there are certain situations where we actually flip that and go in add the tweeter because it will sound better and boom we're ready the next thing we're gonna do is see where the radio distorts at to do that we're gonna use our SMD DD one we're gonna play a thousand Hertz 0 DB test track and we're just gonna start turning it up and seeing what happens the gains in the amplifier are turned all the way down in the software we have signal we got a red light red light is bad red light is gone turn it up one turn it down one more all right where are we at so that means that radio maxes out at 35 so anything above that it's gonna start to break up a little bit for this amplifier the gains are adjusted through the DSP we just wanted to find out first where the radio is gonna break apart so while we're doing our next test which is going to be using pink noise in order to set up the DSP in the amplifier which is these guys here so we're gonna be using the DMR ta in the car microphone up because he's a really tall guy and that's where his head was and then this laptop will be controlling the software for the DSP amplifier this is what we're looking at coming out of the speakers right now and specifically this is the drivers front speaker with no EQ applied what we want to try to do is kind of smooth this out a little bit this seems kind of naturally high here kind of want to bring that down take care of this little pump right here how we're gonna do that is by adjusting this this is a graphic equalizer which means there's 31 bands there's 31 channels raise and lower accordingly this is not a parametric so we will not have the ability to adjust cue and make your measurements this one's gonna take a little bit longer I'm looking at the DM RT I do like to switch it out to 1:6 scale makes it a little bit finer you can see these bumps a little more clear the best practice is when doing disc P is to getting down and not up that way you're not introducing noise you're not boosting cut instead of boost is another way of saying it now when setting the DSP I like to do drivers front with and without subwoofer then I like to do Pat your front with and without subwoofer turning it on and off and one of the cool features about the DM RTA is it gives you the ability to ghost in a preset I can look at my ghosted image of channel 1 here now I can play too I can play my passenger side now and compare the two images together great looking at these computers and being able to do all this it's a wonderful feeling but ears on it are the the ticket I like what I see there I want to hear it now and I want to make some adjustments from there so I'm gonna hop in play some music I know right now when I tune a car I have a specific song that I play every time and we've used this to tune hundreds of cars and I know what it sounds like and I don't like the song anymore but I play it because I know what it sounds like [Music] on a single point in the center of your sound State [Music] and after extended period of playtime whatever it takes and you're finally happy you can deliver to the customer all right it's reveal time let's head outside and show them his new system so here's all your empty boxes I don't want to take them with you we do have a dumpster over there that's right after you here's all your old speakers so what you wanted was and you walk here just remove the whole thing so what we've built is it's an actual it's not just that screwed into the side we built the whole casing so that it's like a like a little box on the back of it like like a power outlet okay yes on the back of it speaker walkers wire comes down to the top it's all soldered in there together so it's it's not going anywhere you don't have to worry about it smacking in in the other short no now what we did is gray side comes here white side goes there and they're color-coded obviously and if the logo is facing up then you're gone the right direction sounds good so we made this ABS panel here this bolt here on the top is actually a second Derrick ball so when you pull this off this whole thing will come off but the battery is bolt is still there so there's two bolts and washers but if you just need to service something this actually just pops off so if they need to get into something like that or if they need to take this off to get down to there they don't actually have to pull the fuse holder out they can leave it attached and remove it makes it kind of nice it just snaps back into place we went ahead and made a suspended ant mount here so it you still can put the floor mat in let's go get here temple you know the air will still blow in from underneath the seat but then we made this panel here that is riveted into place you can actually pull these screws out doing the adjustment screw the panel back in let me stand at the bottoms flush in case the little fingers get up underneath there they win it out themselves and it we put it flush up against the amplifier so they can just sit there and kick this all they want and then there is a secondary fuse located here the kicker requires us to install on these particular and that cover just pops off as you can see the wiring here everything is color-coded so give the white which is driver pass we use a standard you know require colors that have been established forever and ever so that if you ever did have to take it somewhere to have a look at it they should be able to clearly figure out what heck is going on if you do need to get in the amplifier for the DSP section the USB 4 is located behind the panel alright pull those 3d out you go so the one thing about this amplifier is that it has that really big subwoofer bottom control because it's a whole control center and we were going to put it in this pocket because we didn't want to cut this up at all and we're gonna mount that low here well we changed it up a little bit you had the factory USB right here we actually made a whole new mounting for it oh and mounted it here and we put this up here we can get to it and it's much easier to use and the nice thing was is you wanted to make sure you retained as much of this pocket as possible now you do excited you hear yes absolutely all right I'll tell you what we're gonna do is we replace some of my music first and then we'll switch to your reason [Music] it can be a bad day was no one else hearing that all right well let's go ahead and play some your stuff and make sure it does what it wants to absolutely [Music] play with this guy yes so let me explain you what's going on and what I'm what I'm doing depending on the type of music you listen to the default screen is always gonna be gain okay it's a pretty way of saying level it's not really gain is per se like a gain in an amplifier but I guess that figure since no one understands level I'll just call it gain and everyone will think it's volume so this indicated obviously low hi next is going to be boost now boost center frequency and width are three things that play hand-in-hand with one another yeah boost is the overall amount of effect that it's giving you on the center frequency which is obviously the lower here to higher and what the idea behind this is in your car if you looked at the output of this factory radio on an RTA it goes from - PC - low frequency and it goes yay yay yay yay down so it has a steep roll-off starting at about 60 Hertz and just goes so when it's not 30 Hertz there's pretty much no sound coming out of it that's why this feature in this amplifier is awesome because it helps to fix that because it's designed to be a base restoration device and when you're feeding it no base that's what it's made to do is actually bring that base back so frequency the lower it is the more it will you know it goes towards low frequency the higher the higher frequency in this case you're probably going to be using it in the lower frequency because you're wanting to bring those back and then with is the next one I'm sorry with is the next one if C dot here see a dot here so what it's doing is it's doing this so when you put them close together that narrows the width so if you're listening to something like a modern song that has a plenty of bass in it you want your width to be narrow because there's tons of bass you don't really need to have bass boost in it when you listen to something like hey dude where there is no bass by increasing the width what you're doing is you're grabbing from frequencies to the left of right of the center of frequency and bringing back in that fullness sound that's why when you first start playing the song and the drum came and I went over here adjusted that all of a sudden you were like weird so that's what that will do for you two things one behind the glovebox here is the ANSI module which you probably know because okay so we've unplugged that this is also will reminded the crossover so we made a giant abs panel that mounts up into the dash behind there so if you ever pull the glove box out they're tucked up in behind between here in the airbag is the crossover secondly the only other thing that is attached to the car is the tea harness we put in okay we're an all-new speaker wires into the doors we're an all-new speaker wires to the rear so the only thing we're tapped into is the battery and we have a plug behind the glovebox there and if you pull up the box right here the games they plugged it on plugs and you can unplug off of our speaker wires alright and that's all that's connected to the car I know how'd you get the power to the back into the seat did you put grommet in or is the ground underneath the firewall over there yeah three inch trip around the hall - you know waterproof it if we drilled our own hole we're not going through any faculty her this is there so we don't have to worry about our own s power runs across comes up the center console here it's it tied to the main harness it comes underneath the seat and attaches here there's a factory ground point located right underneath this cup holder so we went ahead and used that for our ground so we didn't actually drill into the car - making your own points good really that's about it I mean honestly the most intrusive thing we did was Mountain face now I like what you did to this okay well that's all I got for you thanks for making the trip again spending the time by the pool for a couple days was terrible hey my name is Artie from AM global Northeast Regional want to say that I've known Dene for 27 years I've watched him grow into the person and the Installer and the businessman that he is today been in the business 40 years so I've met a lot of people in my day but nobody with more integrity intelligence and compassion for this industry that's why it's my honor and my pleasure to recommend him for this 2019 award my name is Artie and I approve this message this year has been quite an exciting year so far both personally and professionally they intertwine with each other a lot we have a channel which is geared around stereo where we show people how to do just this they take dashes apart how to put cars together how to build things reviews all that fun stuff we've been doing it for about six or seven years and this year we were in the home stretch and we were trying to get to a hundred thousand subscribers and that's a huge deal in the YouTube world and we hit on my 47th birthday 100,000 subscribers it was a pretty cool birthday present for sure the only thing that's happened to me this year coming out of 2018 I was had kind of a health scare blood pressure issue fun stuff like that basically pretty common stuff for anyone that puts as many hours and is that you know you typically do and you don't take care of yourself so I had to get my act together stuck taking care of myself I like to run so I went back to running taking time out and I told myself I wanted to run a marathon and I'd been working up to it and I'd ran a marathon so that was like super cool took four hours it was a lot of work took a lot of training to get there but in the end it was like yeah I knocked that thing off my belt I was like wow and then add to all that the excitement of this whole contest becoming top 12 installer of the year totally blew my mind I didn't know that was gonna happen in the fact that it has has just been like a roller coaster ride of total excitement and it's been thrilling you'd think that is enough but it wasn't when I went to knowledge fest Cindy with my partner Fernando we had talked about coming up with a class how to help other stores do video work we see what people are doing out there hey we can help we can help people make better videos so this year at Dallas we're actually teaching a class which is probably one of the most exciting things I've ever done I am so looking forward to that planning for it getting it all together so that's four huge things that have happened this year and the years only half way over so I can only imagine what the rest of this year has on the books for me hello everyone my name is Jason zeal and I work for stereo King in Portland Oregon and I'm here to promote Dean bayit for his nominations for in star of the year so why do I think Dean bayit deserves to be in star of the year's it's actually pretty simple it's all based on his work ethics how he plans and designs and test every single install he does whether it be a fifty dollar deck install or five thousand dollar install makes no difference to Dean every single thing has to be done the same way every single time Dean doesn't skip steps or cut corners everything is done the right way the first time obviously he's invested a lot of time and money into his career to make him who he is today in the install industry he doesn't try to hide anything he does obviously he does it all on YouTube and it's all for the world to see so that's my opinion why he deserves a star of the year and have a good one has an employee in a small independent retailer I have to wear many hats one moment I'm an installer like I am now the next minute I might have to be the head sales guy I might have to be answering a phone for tech support for one of our customers or a future customer they might have to come back and be a fabricator and build something that needs to go into a job that we're working on no matter what role I'm doing I approach it the same way I give it my best they use the term 110 percent it's not that it's something that's inside you something in your makeup that makes you want to be the best that you can and that's it I want to approach every situation I'm at at the highest level possible I want to give the best me to whatever situation I'm working with and hopefully in doing so that'll show the other people that work here but they can do the same thing and that those values they'll see the reward of that for example when a new product comes in I grab the new product I take it apart I put the bench I power it up I want to go through all the menus I want to find out if we need to plug it into a laptop like on a DSP I want to do that I want to download those software's I want to play with them I take them home at night and I do the same thing because I don't want to be surprised I want to know something before the question is asked and I hope they see that and they approach it the same way and that they want to learn and be better at what they do I feel that showing them the best me all the time in turn they will show me the best of them and that allows us to be the best store we can be I'm voting for Dean inside of the year because he's a very reliable person he makes great videos educate not only installers but also customers so that they're able to ask for specific products and we are able to use the issues that he's found in the real world and apply to our own base I would like to think of my role in this industry as an evangelist educator spreading the gospel of 12volts talking to anyone and everyone that will listen if they ask a question answer it for them try to be a good voice in an example for our industry show how it can be done share my many years of experience to this family that I call the 12 volt industry if I get a new tool that makes a task better or faster talk about it if I learn about a new product that'll make something better demo it and show it off basically try to make as big a difference as I possibly can hi I'm Lorie Boyer Regional Sales Manager for kicker performance audio when I think of Dean the first word that pops into my mind is passionate he is so passionate about so many aspects of the 12 volt industry it shows through in the knowledge that he has the product lines the understanding that he has the technologies of all of these different product lines that have had to involve because of the car manufacturers and what it takes these days to install in a vehicle the quality of jobs that he does he's passionate about doing it right doing it right the first time and helping to educate others to be able to do it right the first time and that's one of the main things that when I think of Dean he has a passion for mentoring people that I haven't seen in too many people he wants to create an interest and enthusiasm and get people excited about audio again he has a passion for mentoring anybody who's watching or listening he wants them to learn and to understand and to get excited again about audio his mentoring of sales manager in industry personnel helping us to understand what it's like for the Installer what it's like for the customer what it's like for the store owner that's passionate for him for us to understand because he wants this industry to grow again to quit declining it's just so difficult to explain how important somebody like Dean is for our industry to bring this industry back to what it has been in the past is why I feel like he deserves this industry award what you see on the counter right here is a laser lasers lasers are things that Star Wars had and they went pew pew sort of thought you'd ever have one in the install Bay but I do this is the future we're going to use this tool to do amazing things over the next year and for the foreseeable future it's gonna take a lot of time to learn how to properly and I'm looking forward to it that is for sure because any opportunity I get to play with cool tools I'm part of it I'm down for that I want to do it this was not a cheap tool that is for sure it took me a while to save up the money to buy this but investing in myself is something that's very important to me because no one else is gonna do it right this industry is constantly changing products like this or what allow it to change and become better changing becoming better it's what it's all about and I keep rubbing it because I really like it and it's shiny and who doesn't like shiny things hi my name is Jeff Smith director of training from AM global this is my endorsement for Dean bayit for installer of the year Dean has proven himself time and time again to be a icon in our industry Dean goes above and beyond the call of duty multiple days a week whether it's in the shop on YouTube on Facebook on Instagram setting the bar for our newer generation of installers coming up in this industry Dean definitely knows his way around the install Bay knows his way around many cars he's an excellent troubleshooter which is one of the best skills that are lost in today's world of fabrication you know being the way of our industry don't get me wrong fabrication is a huge part of our industry but if you don't know the basics if you don't if you're not an expert in wiring an expert or troubleshooting expert in standard installation Dean specializes in what I like to call clean underwear right when you pull back any panel you know this that all the wiring is laid out perfectly he sets the standard today for a lot of shops to do their wiring amplifier mounting safe secure easy to get to very durable everything you know Dean is a consummate installer you know he's the type of guy that people want to be like so with that being said I think that Dean has all the qualities and capabilities in our industry to definitely be install of the year not only is Dean excellent friend great wealth of knowledge he's the guy that a lot of people go to for information on Street he's constantly helpful answering questions posting pictures setting the example for a lot of installers today I know plenty of times that I've been stuck in my in my installations and I've reached out to Dean for tech support because on a day to day basis Dean is that guy that catalogs all of his work that is definitely a resource to all of us installers in the industry and it's not afraid to share his information with people where a lot of people don't like to share information so that's another plus under my hat for Dean one of the other things that really stands out to me about Dean being in the top five installs in the country is that Dean follows a philosophy that's very near and dear to my heart Dean is an expert in integration and I think that in this time and date that we live in it's even more prevalent because a lot of installers typically gravitate toward the fabrication side of things and there's nothing wrong with fabrication but the core of our industry its installation it's knowing the ins and outs of vehicles it's knowing how to take vehicles apart how to put them back together how to integrate into all of these advanced data bus systems that we have today in our industry and I think that's one of the biggest skills and the knowledge and know-how and the way to troubleshoot into these systems that are playing our industry because of the OEM manufacturers that Dean is actually expert in so that is why I really stand behind Dean is because he follows in the same monocle or model of thought process that I have always instilled in all the work that I did when I was in the Bay competing in the same arena for install the year that om integration is the key to our industry and is the heart of our industry because without being able to integrate into the vehicles that we have today we wouldn't even get to the point of having an for fabrication so that's one of the best things I could think of that Dena's expert in so the journey ends here at the last question the question that this is all led up to and hopefully by this point you've come to a decision of your own as far as the answer to this question but what is the question simple why should I be installer of the year and I ask you did I demonstrate all the skill that it takes in order to qualify for this position did I show you that I have the ability to fulfill the honor of being called the installer of the year to me the answer is yes but I'm bias because I'm me do I feel like I have all the qualities that it takes to do it yes yes I do I'm confident in my ability to do what it takes in order to get the job done to deliver a product to a customer that is exactly what they asked for to look at a situation and to be able to solve it or give options to solve it to see a problem and not see just a problem but also a solution all these things are accommodation of years of experience that brings us here to this point to ask that question and I hope you choose yes and I hope you enjoyed this video and with that I'll say goodnight thank you so much for watching you guys have a great night as always I'll see you later next time bye [Music]

Channel: Five Star Car Stereo

Views: 268,720

Rating: 4.7426372 out of 5

Keywords: “Five, star, car, stereo”, auto, automobile, vehicles, custom, luxury, sound, system, loud, bass, subwoofer, tweeter, stereo, amp, amplifier, audio, quality, sq, eq, tone, midrange, radio, woofer, shallow, pro, design, bluetooth, installation, build, installer, Florida, clearwater, tremendous, SMD, mead916, DD-1, Paa3, rockford, fosgate, kicker, alpine, pioneer, kenwood, excelon, audiocontrol, hertz, focal, orion, hifonics, skar, sony, dvd, aux, active, network, mode, crossover, CarPlay, android, screen, sharing, Netflix, Hulu

Id: u8sz5mVzKm4

Length: 111min 24sec (6684 seconds)

Published: Sun Aug 25 2019