Custom guarding on the Hardinge HLVH

hello everyone welcome to my shop I'm Robin today we're going to cover the guarding that I put on my H LVH and it has a protective machine since I've had it roughly 20 years and I'm going to cover how this is put on and some of the details and a few glimpses of some of the other machines that I have some guarding on and we'll go from there some of you may appreciate my new first attempt at glare control by cropping so you notice there's no problems here today there were on them on the last video so let me know how you how you like the the nuclear control here's an example of doing the guarding on a new machine I spent a couple days doing a garden on the tormach slant bed that I purchased before I even started just knowing that this will make machine last immensely longer I won't go into all the details of how this is attached but very simple just simple cold rolled strips drilled tap glued whatever to various things I'll cover this in more detail in another video but the principle here is protect the machine think about the controlling where the chips lay where they end up how easy it is to clean and do it upfront spend the time to make machine right from the beginning and it will pay you back in not needing future maintenance this is my H LVH and I just want to show some of the guarding that I have on here that the makes this thing basically last forever the reason I'm doing this now is because I need to replace this tattered and holy poke the hole in there as soon as you get a hole in it at all then it's it's shot got to get changed immediately but this is just from chips and things getting getting whipped around so I have to take this the rest of my guarding apart in order to replace this and so I'm going to show that procedure and also some of the construction details of the guardians I put on here this is I think nominally 1/32 neoprene diaphragm material has woven fabric in it and the importance of that is that it does not grow with oils and things get to it and start to decompose the neoprene that still happens but it doesn't structurally change its shape because the fabric maintains the shape so real nice stuff real thin it actually measures about 19 or 20 thousands thick so I have sheets here I cut multiples while I'm cutting them so that I have replacements ready to go they last quite a while probably over a year to shot these are the any pieces on the side here that actually excuse my hands here these are the pieces that go down to this side of the cross light and then the other two are the same length that going to either end on this end and the tail end I have my camera sitting on the bed right here but there's one on the tail in here that can go between the tail stock this covers just a piece of 16 gauge stainless steel that was formed with the drift lip comes up as clearance the cross slide scale is in this gully here on the side and goes up on the top and it's actually inlaid into the top of the cross line Shay's on the top and then overhangs far enough to extend over to be able to attach the flap this cover is held on with not held on but sealed with gasket maker stuff gray or black same thing but really good stuff this stuff is holds up to the synthetic coolants and everything so you're going to see it's going to take a little effort to actually get this thing broken booth because it's nothing's very very tenacious and I don't want to I don't want it bend bend up my my my cover so I'm just gently putting some pressure on here and give this get any time to pop like that and over here on the sides I can get underneath but yeah this stuff really really holds and you don't want to you don't want to pop things loose and Bend up the sheet now so I'm just going to gently let up got one screw left in there that's a good way to bend things the screws are just icing on the cake there - there we go so there's what we're looking at this was precisely milled for the for the cutouts this is thinned out to be able to cope go over the dial and then the whole cross slide was milled correspondingly with a lip down the thickness of the 16 gauge material drilled and tapped with for 40 holes in this case I used and countersunk of the Flathead would actually bear on the sheet metal and not bear on the hole here and so that's what it looks like under there this is why the cover had to be removed just to replace this because this is actually up underneath so I have four flat head screws holding the clamp bar on there to protect that this is my x-axis mini scale and head mounted so very solid mounting also an opportunity to talk about ABI errors and placement on placement of digital scales on a machine this is something where people often put things on for convenience or the easiest mounting place or what that rather than considering the best accuracy location and making provisions to make that situation work ABI errors are caused by curvature in a way movement and if the there's examples you can even Google at the error and you'll see examples example of spokes on the wheel if you have your digital scale mounted at the hub and then you look at the motion being a huge curvature you can see that the motion read by the scale and the motion read by the surface where you're working can be two different things I know that's a a poor description but I'll cover you cover those happy errors in more detail but in this case having the scale right where you want it to be in this case right under the cutting tool so my cutting tool when it's on here these cutting tools 99% of the time are directly over the scale which means that even if there is curvature I'm measuring right at this place you put it on the backside here now if there's curvature whatever that curvature is what you're reading back here and with a tool or doing can be two different things then you put a boring board out here and now it's exaggerated it even further so that's curvature like this as the saddle or the cross light does this is in the exaggerated form with measuring back here gives you more travel out here than the scales actually reading so that's why it's important now this typically people would say let's go in same place to put it Chuck's right their tools their parts oil well that's why you say don't compromise spend the day it takes to make a card like this and put it on there and you'll be rewarded with with no problems never had a single issue with the scale in 27 years so yeah it's just worth the ever same way is my Z scale it's mounted down here it's now great here on the bed okay difficult place no machine surfaces you have to do a lot of you know creative stuff to get the mounting bar mounted properly and entwine the mounting systems get the headlines on here is all immensely more difficult but pays and long-run it's protected doesn't get on the back we'd have to worry about other attachments not being put on and again it's directly under the works of your general your general overall area of where you're working right here that's where the Z scale is that a B errors are minimized back here you've got a long distance quite a distance away from where the scale is and where you're working you're going to you're going to introduce a beer so just something to consider really think about the best location for the scales and make your life difficult once in melting them but do what's necessary to get them into the optimum place with the optimal guarding and you'll be rewarded I will some time show you my manual Bridgeport scale locations which are relatively insane but very effective because they're mounted inside the machine I realized I'm talking about with my digital is being mounted inside the machine there's no way I'm not going to show you how this is done because I'm not gonna dissemble this this just to show you where these scales are but the cross slide scale is actually down inside the machine about here and the rehab rides the nut mount inside the Bridgeport and then the scale is mounted to the actual knee and as you can see the cables exiting out the bottom there of the read head the read head of the x-axis scale is also sitting up inside on this on the saddle itself those two cables are the only thing that's exposed of these scales that are inside this machine and then here you can see the z axis the z axis of the head rides this the scale is managed right here and that that works extremely well very handy having a high-resolution digital readout on the Z I have some hydraulic motor bodies that I make I designed that require very precise board depth with intense because of the leakage effects of matching the lengths to the rotors so there's an actual need for very very precise depth control and sometimes I'll show the video on when making this here's the location of my digital scale and my Bridge port as you can see it's mounted underneath inside the table and although that's an extremely difficult place to put it it's bulletproof the saddle of the Bridge port you can see here we just got some trips voted on black max is holding the clock tight black max 380 is holding on this same material the neoprene waist doctor there and up here I've made a bar it actually sits on the dovetail and it was just that neoprene stock black max to the plate and then it just hangs down smooth and mounts up includes up underneath D onto the top edge of this saddle with black max also it's the aluminum rail that I made to hold the back edge up against the headstock and you notice here I've made a 10 mil made a slot then sold through so that I could actually do the dovetail in one piece and just temporarily you form this aluminum out of the way so it actually hook over and then the folders are bolt under right underneath here that actually clamps it I just keeps nugget and actually clamp it rigid but let's get back on there without having a removable piece for the dovetail so that holds the one end and then you'll see the this is the that's the bar that's bolts on that and then this is the bars bolts up here with flat heads on this edge of the carriage and it's exact same length as carriage and then the gray stuff here is the the gasket stuff my shoes before the ultra black is underneath these also just wanted to show here that the black max 380 Loctite glue really gets a good hold on the apron and show you the prep procedure going to use here but what happens is the synthetic : it's in and actually starts to attack the actual rubber material itself and that's what peels away here you can see the actual original rubbers of the screws on the Black Max still connected there to get an optimum bond of the neoprene diaphragm stock to whatever your bonding it - I get to coarse grit flap wheels I keep one for rubber one for steel I keep the separate because once you use it on steel it is real crispy short bite that once it's had to work that hard on steel by keeping one four rubber it really cuts nice and clean and stays that way also you want to keep these very clean oil or any contamination here that would it would give any kind of oily substance on the surface to keep the Loctite 380 from bonding well so I just use these real slow speeds on a flexible shaft well we're after it the real course scratch finish like that it's virgin that the black max will get a good bite on now we have our prepped Nia premium where we've cut the skin off of it and our scuff step steel and now we're going to use our 380 Black Max toughened adhesive very good stuff and we're going to put a layer on here you definitely want to put it on the steel not on the rubber the rubber will will make this stuff kick and cure before you want it to and actually the Steve in the steel can be problematic if we don't get it going soon enough so getting nothing on there that we can squirm it around a little bit it can be a battle to keep this stuff from sometimes you can just have it start to cure right on the on the on the apart the key here is to squirm it around and get it to form a nice even layer everywhere don't just there we go and get it in place there we go once you got in place you got to be careful because it'll grab once you've got that then press down and hold it's not like this has to feel completely new hermetically it's just that it keeps didn't keep it from squirming as the rubber gets attacks from the coolant gradually let's that gets a bite I usually let wipe off the edges with some alcohol get the loose or uncured I should say loose would be uncured adhesive off the edges run down the crease here where they could form a fill it and wipe that off and we just take a number 11 exacto blade find our hole and it's very easy just go around and follow the whole edge and go around and cut cut this off cut the holes out find a hole get in place and just follow the hole do that to all the holes and we'll do that to all the edges of all the pieces and we'll assemble this right here on the end is a place for the appeal to start and I know from experience I don't mechanically hold this this will eventually start unraveling from this from this location right here it will just start getting so just like 25,000 spreche in stock fold over piece make a little channel out of it it goes on here and fits like that and then I'll put a little black max on there and then I'll crimp this shut with a pair of vise grips on each end and then what this does is it mechanically holds that so that that terror can't start there and just progress down the whole length it will decrease this here where the crimps going to go on being underneath also will rinse out the the channel that we made that's right out Muriel I got some of that now get that on located out to the edge to actually grab out where the edge starts light grab if the pliers push on and crimp so that's mechanically held onto a good tight good tight grip there on that mechanically and that's not going to peel off so let us get tugged down here it's it's fighting the brass not just the glue bond now we're getting ready to put these on we're just degreasing where the rails are going to hold on I do this more for anti-corrosion purposes than I do for actual sealing concerns just trying to make it such that the doing okay major corrosion issues going on between these parts so let's put a nice thin layer of the Ultra black right here you when the strip gets put on we put a layer of CMD extreme pressure Lube on the strip and the stainless steel cover actually presses down against that and forms a basically watertight seal over that working off the excess material and then we're putting the solid riser block back on like you saw on the other video so this is spark some ideas about getting some neoprene Spock diaphragm stock to use to guard your machines using black max 380 to bond this stuff wherever it's needed it's quick and quick and dirty way to get guarding on it's very effective and can really improve the life your machines so just look around your machines for places where this could keep chefs off the ways keep dirt out keep cooling from getting mixing with your with your way oil things like that it's not always as easy as this HL BH is kind of an easy candidate for this the way the bait system works so understand is not not as easy to do everywhere but give it some thought I think I think you'll find places where this will be valuable I hope you found this interesting informative and if so please subscribe tell your friends share and I'll be back

Channel: ROBRENZ

Views: 31,959

Rating: 4.9647217 out of 5

Keywords: machine guarding, hardinge hlvh, hardinge, way covers, guarding, dro, scale mounting, digital scales, hardinge lathe, lathe, tormach, slant pro, slant pro 15

Id: qjh63pll0VM

Length: 21min 52sec (1312 seconds)

Published: Mon Feb 27 2017