Cummins Race Engine Build

in our last UCC video we showed you the parts that go into a big engine this video we're gonna go through assembly of that engine the first thing I do when I get an engine back in from the machine shop is to set my ring gap every piston is different every cylinder is different so you can't just set a ring in Siller number one and think it's gonna fit in still number four so when you when you set your ring number one you put that in a bag and label it so you make sure that ring goes back in that hole so first thing we do is set the gaps and all the Rings both your your top ring your milling in and you verify your oil rings are big enough I've never yet had to make any of those larger but always make sure they're big enough once the Rings are set is timing of the crankin make sure your block is completely clean dude have you got to do to make sure that guy it's clean oil galleys piston walls everything clean then put your bearings in let's set that cranking now on this particular engine I actually went down to the machine shop and we verified every clearance on the main bearings to make sure they were perfect that way they could hone out if they needed to rehan the line board they could do that so this crank was perfect so this point now we set the crank in torque the main caps make sure it spins freely and if you haven't already done so make sure you check your clearances so now that the crank is in it's time to put our piston assembly together for these assembly we're using those diamond Pistons with those trend DLC coded pins and also the Wagner rods this should be really strong assembly trice the power very well so what I want to do is make sure that I get for one the right ring in the right hole so I get everything to lined up perfectly so it's very easy to do it right very hard to make a mistake make sure your piston rings are very clean but there's no burrs from the filing on them which the Pistons are clean everything is clean and coated the pins I cut with an assembly grease one interesting thing that comes with these forged pistons is actual piston pin retaining clip on a Cummins stock engine it's a snap or you snap pliers and you squeeze and that's how you hold the pin in the piston on these pistons they use a thing called a spiral lock and these are a lot different and you don't new snap pliers and actually spin in there and there's actually two on each side so there's four retaining devices on this thing this rod and cap our machine together so you don't ever want to mix and match this cap with this rod this is one unit and you shouldn't mix and match [Music] [Music] all right we are done Pistons pins rods are made it together now it's time to put piston rings on the piston [Music] [Music] some rooms are installed the bearings that we're gonna use in this engine build Orlick levite eh bearing a series and I've used these for a long time had real good luck with these all the ones in this engine are there extra clearance they have one that give you the extra thousandth of an inch of clearance and so that's we're using here to open up our tolerances a little bit and high-performance motor this work makes a lot of sense and so that's we're using on this engine and should work well once I have all six assemblies together they're ready to go on the engine now that the Pistons are going in it's usually nice to have a buddy there to be able to receive the bottom in where the top goes in if you don't have something around you're working late at night sometimes have to do it by yourself which I had to do myself this time what you gotta do is get a good ring compressor you're a nice ring compressor and then going real easy make sure your rings gaps or spaced and get those things in the hole and guide those pissah's down on the crank and once those are there you can put the end cap on by this point I had to recheck clearances because I didn't do this in the machine shop so I had to check clearances again on all of these rods it was really cool because every one was exactly the same so that makes me feel good about machine work an equality of these regular rods that they are all identical across the board I've tried the Pistons in I put on the engine girdle what this thing does it ties all the main caps together in with the blocks they can't move and so it's a nice thing to really tie that bottom and give it some good strength to finish at the bottom in we need to get the oil pan on so before we do that we got to put the oil pickup tube in the front and rear crank covers because those are the front and rear part flange I guess you will of the oil pan so once I got those in place we could glue it down and put the oil pan back on so the next step we got to do is put the camshaft in but you gotta be careful you don't want to rotate the motor all the way right-side up because those lifters we put in earlier will fall out so the lifters are in the block and they gotta have the camp chef to hold them up so I wrote to the engine just upwards so it's vertical then I can drop that camshaft down just before I put the camshaft didn't make sure to put the gear on and so put that gear on drop that camshaft down and then we can continue the assembly after the camshaft is in an hour to just the front end and top and assembly we got to put the head on the heads the one you saw us firing the other video we did some firings on that head so that guys ready to go on we got the valve springs in the valves are in we've made all our modifications to this head when we slap it down on this engine and get it torqued down on this particular engine we were using some Harlan sharp rockers in their own custom stand and we modified the stands to make them even more robust and less likely to move in the head and once we got those in place we know it's had a few problems we had to address which had to take the head back off then it make some more clearance for these push rods our push rods are huge or 9/16 in diameter their gigantic so we actually had to go in the head and drill out and Dremel some extra clearance so those push rods didn't hit the side of the wall of ethereum and so we took the head off I think two or three different times checking clearance is making sure had plenty of clearance there once we had that done everything moved freely and smooth and then we just torque the head on set the valve lash and we're ready to get this thing started [Music] once the engine is somebody was completely stuck it back in the truck got the turbos on set the injection timing started off I have the 25 degrees fuel line's injectors everything in there and we started up we're really happy broke the cam in then went really really well and then we checked lash make sure didn't nothing went wrong and lash was good to the hot Reed torque and reset lash again and now the motor is ready we've been a break-in oil change it's ready to do some runs in the dyno still an engine break and we're not trying to set any world records here we have a race coming up in a couple days you want to attend you want to test the engine the transmission a lot of things we got a shakedown this is a brand new build again and so we're just looking to make a modest horsepower level to be hopefully competitive we think around 14 to 15 in horsepower should get us there so we're this purpose of this dyno tuning is just to set the power number at that level come on Dino we started out our first poll at zero increase killing I mean our country put out at that level did right around 1150 horsepower we were up or down 20 horsepower trimming runs so minimum fuel the least amount of power possible slightly over 1100 so after those first few polls we knew we needed more so he jumped that feel up to about 680 CCS just want to see where that took us 600cc that put us like a sixteen hundred fifty horsepower give or take scary the real number is right at 16 and if the climate I got come see this [Music] it's a little bit more aggressively want to do for this run still breaking it a bunch of stuffs let's back her down a little bit let's go to 15 psi okay where does that give us 15 20 gives us 680 10 gives us 5 20 something about 600 we end up going down to right at 600 cc's if you'll have put us right around 1450 1500 in there so that was a good a good we thought competitive number that we could go race with well that's it for this video I hope you enjoyed it if you're new around here please subscribe that like button give us a comment we want to talk with you in our next video we're taking this beast to the track which first runs down the drag strip this is just a shakedown for this engine we're hoping to be competitive we're not going with anticipating blowing anybody away we just want to see if the trainings gonna work like we think it will see if the engines gonna work like we think it will nothing ever works like we think it will so hopefully whatever we find we can easily fix and we can get ready for the big show in May thanks [Music]

Channel: Power Driven

Views: 339,772

Keywords: Power Driven DIesel, diesel power, cummins, duramax, powerstroke, turbo, turbocharger, compound turbos, compounds, triple turbos, 12 valve, dinosour power, horsepower, torque, injectors, dyno, Borg Warner, Dyno Proven, boost, big boost, Dodge, Chevy, Ford, Goodtimes, cummins power, big horsepower, NHRDA

Id: 6zPGE1Ea_9A

Length: 10min 0sec (600 seconds)

Published: Tue Mar 27 2018