1500HP CUMMINS STREET ENGINE!

you feel like this should be in the youtube video yeah i feel like i feel like this is the proper way to lap a valve you worked on john g tractor that's enough clearance right perfect definitely [Music] hey guys welcome back to the channel um we're getting right back into the comments content uh got some things going on in the background with the six liter but we did get the ones sold so as most of you guys remember we went to all truck challenge out in ohio and good buddy gordon which conveniently i'm actually wearing his sweatshirt suffered an engine failure and we weren't going to let him go home like that so now we are building a cast piston replacement engine for the 07. i missed driving it not sure what turbos we're gonna do yet but we are gonna build a new engine here is the block back from the machine shop uh i have one more core left so we're getting a little low but this is a stock bore six seven i talked to the machine shop they accidentally used like a different kind of water or something so this one didn't actually look as clean as it should as they normally do but it's fine no big deal we're gonna go ahead and get this one set up uh first thing we're gonna do is we're gonna go ahead and get our firings cut on this and our cylinder head and then from there we're gonna go into measuring now full disclosure i have ran you guys through an engine extremely similar to this this setup seemed to work really well um we also tried that same setup on todd's engine and it worked really well so we're not gonna do anything crazy with this one it's going to be very similar except i cannot get my i cannot get my hands on another set of 19 and up cummins pistons so this engine is going to be a molle uh isb piston just a oem replacement for your 13 to 18 trucks uh we will have of course wagler street fighters we're gonna do a ported head firing gasket 625s molle h or hx bearings depending on how the clearances line up we're gonna have a colt cam in here some mountain push rods mountain valve springs mountain valve bridges arp 14 mil mains we're not doing a girdle arp 625's on the top a brand new set of cummins rocker arms and kind of thing trying to think just big b gaskets uh i'll just go out there and say it this engine is going to be eight and a half to nine thousands piston wall top ring's gonna be somewhere between 28 and 30. haven't really made up my mind yet yes that's a lot but you guys all know how these builds always end up when i'm in charge and i'm looking for about four on the uh mains three thou oil clearance on the rods and let's pitter patter again guys i'm not sure if this will be one parts or two parts but there's going to be a lot more time lapses kind of like the 6'4 engine build was i'll pause every once in a while and kind of hit on some hot topics but i already went through and did this all step by step time is of the essence it's almost winter i want to get this thing done before it starts snowing [Music] [Music] [Music] do [Music] okay so we split the firing we got 18 to 19 000 in the block here now we're going to go ahead and move on to the cylinder head i did this before i cleaned the block that way if any shavings fell in it's not a big deal splitting it is the strongest way which means half of this groove is in the block half of it is in the head here we have our ported head uh you guys can kind of see there nice port job um these are xdp springs but if you guys really take a hard look it's not very hard to figure out who who's making these so we'll just call these the xdp pressure towers so we're gonna get that done uh get all the valve springs changed out this head already has the freeze plugs drilled and tapped so firing a valve spring change lap a couple valves in and we are ready to go [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] okay so we got our xdp pressure towers in got those valves locked in we are ready to go one thing i always do is i give these a tap test just to make sure they all sound right so we'll oh sound good all right we'll get this flipped over and get the firing tool on here so [Music] [Music] [Music] okay thank you [Music] [Music] right we got our cylinder head all fire ringed ready to go uh you guys saw us come back to all three i on the block it was a little too deep so i went a little shallower on this one that's one nice thing half and half if you mess up a little bit go too deep or too shallow you can fix it on the matching side so we got this done heads ready to go our xdp pressure towers thread and freeze plugs let's move on to the crank now we're gonna go ahead and install the gear two dowels gear in the oven for the last hour drop it on make sure it's right guys purple nurple over here just like so [Music] guys gotta be quick about this okay if you get it halfway stuck on sometimes it'll tap but the nice part is with it like that now the gear is preheated so we can actually go right on the tig welding this puppy that way the gear doesn't try to come off on us [Music] take it over [Music] i'm [Music] while my fingers unthaw from the frigid frigid temperatures we're facing right now uh we got the block cleaned you guys have seen us do it really easy just make sure on the top here these are the uh oil passages for the rocker arms make sure you get this main oil galley right here that feeds this whole side make sure you guys are getting the oil cavity through the oil pump the pickup tube clean out your cam uh bore hit the oil cooler and then on the back side there is this oil galley that goes all the way forward and then underneath make sure you guys are getting the j jet holes the main oil galley that goes from the uh side oil galley to the main bearings and then also make sure you're getting the oil galley that goes from the mains to the cam so that's pretty much it once you get it done brake clean blow it off soak it in wd-40 engine oil whatever you pick i got our pistons laid out here and again here's the part number right there these are just a cast replacement piston uh we got the um firing or sorry valve reliefs cut in here forty thousands for our stage three colt cam now i'm going to go ahead get all the rings off get them all set up in the block here start doing our ring gaps and then i got to go over to my shop and grab all the parts we need [Music] [Music] all right that was the easiest ring grinding i've ever done um oil rings were right at 18. uh second ring was like 50 51 and then the top ring got 30. because there was so much pissed in the wall in this guy you didn't have to grind them that's pretty normal had this have been a more oem boar or sorry hone spec closer to that like three four five thousands we would have had to grind them quite a bit but since this one is so loose this one measured right around nine thousands piston a wall um and that's where they ended up so we got our rings done now we just need to start cleaning all this stuff we also have to clean the crankshaft and the cam and then also go get our rods so we pressed our old gear off here's the stock cam i love it oh it's one of my favorite things to do got chad here helping us he is putting the torque on the buddy we do have a raw advice now you don't have to be so ghetto i did not know that we got a lot of hate in our last video for for this this device yeah so he's gonna torque these and then we're gonna measure the bearing from there we're going to measure the crank subtract the difference to get our oil clearance on the rod i'm not sure if we're going to need h's or hx's so we have one box of hx here he does one rod we're gonna measure it against the crank if it's good then we'll go ahead do the other five again guys these are the waggler street fighters freaking rod for the price again half inch l19 arp rod bolt nice solid construction these are rated to a very conservative in my opinion 1500 horsepower and yeah that's what we chose to use molly bearings i'll let you guys know how it stacks up okay so you take your uh inside mic zero down the crank take your dial board gauge zero it and then so we're coming off of zero so got right about four thousandths four thousandths oil clearance unfortunately i think that's kind of how we're gonna have to send it because uh i don't have h bearings they'd come in clutch right about now though so with it being 4 thousandths what we decided to do wagler has this amazing design where you can run common rail or 12 valve we had common real h's in stock so this practice is used basically we're going to do an hx and then h and that will essentially shrink our clearance by half a thou shad what was the measurement when you mix them uh it's a half a thou off so the three and a half yeah so three and a half so the h or the yeah the h's were um four thousands of the hxs were three so let's just split the difference okay flip that hx's are bigger okay yeah yeah so we mixed them and that's how you get clearance now on this one we're going to go ahead and do the mains pretty easy you want the bearings to go in clean and dry and we're just going to go ahead and throw h's in here hope it works obviously we're going to measure but that's kind of where we're at foreign [Music] okay so what you guys just watched us do we put the main bearings in lubed up the studs torqued them and then we measured them again we zero off the crankshaft with the inside mic zero our dial blower gauge and measure so we got about four and a quarter four and a half throughout which is exactly honestly right where we wanted it to be so now we'll go ahead and pull this apart get some assembly lube on the bearings and drop the crank in um for the sake of time i am going to just get this done because it is getting a little late and we got some goals we got to hit we want to get the rods in tonight you guys are gonna have to forgive me i am working by myself tonight we're gonna go ahead and swap this cam bushing out don't do that all right this cam bushing guys there's two different versions there is there's a common rail and a 12 valve you'll know which one's which the 12 valves have a much smaller outer diameter the commoner one is pretty easy you put some of this 640 in there i usually hold it in my fingers you need to line that up with the oil hole in the block right here so this is a little tricky um sometimes you get it sometimes you don't the big thing is to keep hitting it pretty square with a hammer and i have this little driver it's made out of aluminum goes like that you just do a double check on the hole there [Music] then you just drive it in like so it is a brass or babbitt style and you're just kind of checking and you drive it in and you basically want to drive this thing just where it's flush like so and your oil hole should be unobstructed and then you get that brake clean out you get all the retaining compound cleaned off like so and it's one of those things uh in all honesty i used to never replace these i used to just clean them i'd use a three stone home kind of clean it up a little bit and what i found is a lot of these blocks that we're getting um obviously their core blocks is people aren't very careful when they pull the cam out so a new practice i've started i'd say in the last couple years as i always replace this bushing the molle part number for the common rail one sh-1981 next we have our oil galley holes there's one on the front two on the back what i find works best a little bit of that 640. oh don't drop it started we got spares so you want to just put a bunch kind of on the leading edge that way as you hammer it in it kind of grabs like so we're gonna leave this tipped upside down take a hammer and then the secret sauce you could say is a in my set it's a 3 13 millimeter silver eagle which is like snap-ons like or not stamp-on which is matco's like house brand and you just want to make sure it's installed squarely like so you find your punch set and you stake it so it's basically like that and it divots the block material so this this cannot push out now if you have to remove these not a big deal you take a little dremel tool cleans right up no harm no foul there then we'll flip it over and i'll show you guys the other two these ones really suck because if they leak you gotta pull i guess really they all kind of suck issue i see guys have with these either they drive them too deep and they block when these are apart you'll see there's actual oil passages here so you can't drive them too deep that's why this little uh this little socket here is great because it keeps them square on the board and it because of the way the sockets tapered it can't drive them too deep but i see you guys either drive them in too deep or crooked and if they're crooked they blow right out uh if they are too deep you'll actually starve the engine for oil uh blocking the uh kind of imagine it like you have a heart attack or a blood clot same thing so now that these are done we can go ahead and get our front case mounted to this block we ain't no scrubs around here guys our tv gasket our tv we'll go ahead and throw this front cover on um i'll give you guys the same tips and tricks as last time what i do is i set this down and all the through bolts so like there there there not the ones i have threads in them the through holes i tighten that to the block as well that way it applies even pressure red loctite on this bolt and these four this one and this one the rest of these will get red loctite once we put the cover on and we do red loctite and we do silicone and we do a gasket because this is not grandpa's cattle hauler okay this is the usps priority express full send package um what we have found um and meyer can attest to this is if you don't use red loctite some bolts start to come loose on these higher horsepower applications and i believe that on top of the gasket you also get the silicone seal on here and that kind of makes up for some impurities in the block impurities in the case and it also gives you a little bit i feel like of a vibration dampening effect on this front cover so that's kind of my reason that i do it now i'm not saying my reason's right wrong or indifferent i'm just giving you guys why i do it the way i do it another little tip for you diy guys blue loctite oil squirter bolts these right here these are hollow they torque to like i think it's 10 or 12 foot pounds i usually can kind of feel them start to give right around that area a little bit of blue loctite put the blue loctite on once the bolt is through the plastic like so that way you don't run the risk of getting any blue loctite and plugging those piston squirters chad is installing the beautiful colt tappets i got our j-jets one thing that almost killed this last time make sure you double check that those are aimed in the correct direction we got really lucky on the last one because it got pinched so we paid more attention i have never had an issue but make sure you check those so you guys see there got them all lubed up now we're going to go ahead and put our colt stage 3 cam in make sure the engine is timed all right guys so generally i will put the tappets and the j-jets in before the crankshaft if there's a girdle if there is no girdle i will do it in this order the reason i do it i don't want to risk breaking anything and i don't want to roll the engine over and forget that there's tablets in there so that's why we do it in that order do it however you want okay now we're gonna go ahead drop the cam in um funny story guys this cam actually just fell off my toolbox uh the camera was not rolling um so i'm a little sad but we uh slapped it on the floor a couple times and it doesn't seem to have any issues so we're just going to uh send it make sure that's lined up there don't put your fingers where you wouldn't put your pecker boom now we are going to go ahead and tighten the bolts and this is actually a genuine cummins gear and now they're doing dots instead of zeros so i would uh probably venture a guess that those are getting made in china now and then a ton of red loctite on the cam bolts cam retainer bolts cam thrust plate bolts again that's gracious always start on my hand and then these bad boys get torqued to 24 foot pounds [Music] [Music] [Music] little old time without you been a long time [Music] when everything is [Music] and 15 minutes later all the rods are in shad is doing the final torque uh if you guys use the universal piston ring breaker 9000 over there make sure you tap it flat from here we're gonna go ahead and start working on uh getting everything taped off so we can paint the block uh we'll tape off the head area tape off you know all the little oil galleys and stuff and we'll paint it i do it this way because the oil pan will be one color the block will be another and the head will be another color so i find it best to paint it in this configuration here and everything went off smoothly we got eighteen thousands piston protrusion we are ready to roll okay so we got it all primed got the head painted oil pans out there we got the 14 mil stamped uh in the oil pan uh they do make a jig however i find the back side of a ball peen hammer like the round part works pretty good um and guys i'm gonna go ahead probably end this one here uh i know we still have a lot to go but these videos tend to get really long and they start to get kind of hard to edit um so you guys saw us essentially put together the entire short block minus the oil pan and the oil pickup tube uh you guys saw us put together the cylinder head now all we got to do is kind of put the gasket on bolt it down and then realistically guys we're probably a few maybe three four hours away from actually having this thing done ready to go on the truck so hopefully you guys enjoyed this video drop a comment down below subscribe if you have not already guys hopefully you enjoyed the tips we made it a little bit different and as always guys i will catch you on the next one

Channel: Horsetorques Diesel

Views: 17,116

Keywords: cummins, diesel, engine, engine build, build, measure, 6.7, 6.4, 5.9, 2000hp, 1500hp, twin turbo, turbo, turbos, turbo diesel, diy

Id: T14us82__Z4

Length: 31min 50sec (1910 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 15 2021