Hello, this is The Provoked Prawn,
and this is the Corsair 5000D airflow, a mid-tower ATX case from Corsair which has a
number of different installation options to it and it's a really nice case with a number of
really nice highlights to it. Now I'm going to do an unboxing video and installation setup,
a really in-depth one that'll be quite long, but I'm also going to be covering off all the
different accents, the features of the case, the highlights, the intricacies of building
in it, and showing the different possibilities as well. As you can see from this initial clip of
the setup process I have 12 fans currently set up in here, you can potentially have 13, you can also
mount up to two 360mm radiators, there's liquid cooling options, and there's all sorts of other
goodness, there's loads of potential with the 5000D airflow. It's also a very nice looking case
and with the right setup you can get it running really quiet. It comes with two fans as
standard but there are plenty of options to it. As you can see the end result looks really nice.
Now, I'm going to be showing off a variety of different things as I go through this build. For
reference I'm also going to do a couple of other videos separately if you're interested, I'm
going to do a shorter video where I just cover the pros and cons of this case if you don't
want to watch the entirety of this one, I'm also going to do a video separately on the
Corsair H150i Elite Capellix in white that you'll see set up as part of this video, and I'm going to
do another video on how to set up this case with just the two fans that are included in it and
what the performance looks like in that setup versus the setup I have here with a multitude
of fans. I'm going to also talk to you about the fans that I'm using in the case and how I've set
it up and what the options are because obviously you don't need to follow this exact setup for your
build, you might choose to go with less fans, or more fans, or liquid cooling, there are plenty of
different options and that's one of the highlights of this case, it's very nice solidly built piece
of kit with a really nice design aesthetic to it. I did a video on the Corsair 4000D airflow which
was quite similar to this but a bit more compact and it didn't have nearly as many options in
terms of installation. This one has a lot more features to it and makes it quite similar to my
favorite case which is the Lian Li Dynamic XL I've been using for quite some time, in that you
have a variety of options with the different fan mountings and you'll see included on the rear for
example you have the ability to side mount some fans there. Another really nice highlight to this
case that you'll see as I go through is this door on the back which basically allows you to shut
away all your cables so if you're not great at cable tidying then that's ideal. There are other
things included in here too, you'll see I've just pulled out this little tray which I'll show you
that goes on the front and you can swap that out. You also have removable panels, you'll notice all
this [inaudible] texture design to it basically allows for maximum airflow while still maintaining
that aesthetic, so obviously you can install RGB fans in there as I'm going to and still get
a good look through there, and you get the multitude of fantastic dust filters that Corsair
always supplies so there's one on the front, there's one on the top, and there's one on
the underside, so minimize the amount of dust getting pulled into your case which
is fantastic, held in place with magnets, really easy to install and fantastic in that way
as well. Now here you can see it out of the box initially and you'll note there's just one fan at
the front in the middle, and then there's another one at the rear for exhaust, now Corsair says
you can actually set it up like this and those two fans are designed to ensure maximum airflow in
terms of shooting air from the front straight over your graphics card and CPU and then out of the
rear for exhaust and I'll be interested to see what that stacks up like versus the logical thing
which is filling the case with as many fans as possible. It's designed to take loads of fans, if
you want great airflow surely you want more fans, that's why you bought an airflow case so that's
the logic I'm applying with this build but I am going to do a separate test with benchmarks to
see how the different options stack up. Now as I said the front panel comes off if you watch my
4000D video you’ll notice a lot of similarities with this case design, very similar and that's
not a bad thing because the design of that case was pretty good in a number of ways, and there
were a few cons to it and there still are to the 5000D but different ones, so there's been some
improvements with the 5000D over the 4000D airflow and I'm going to cover those and talk about
what they are, but also there's still some niggles but they're very small ones, and generally
speaking it's actually been very nice to build in and the end result is a really nice looking
machine I'm sure you'll agree by the end of it. You can see the close-up accents, there's
a nice bit in the back here that you'll see that basically works as a cable hiding panel so
if you're not installing fans on that rear side bit, you can leave that in place and that hides
away most of your cables. Another thing here is you'll see markings that let you know what sort of
motherboard this can handle, so it does MicroATX, ITX, and E88 motherboards and it's capable of
all those and I'll also include all the specs you need to know about in the description. On the
rear you also have the ability to install four SSD drives and two standard platter hard drives
as well, so you have three SSD trays there that you can see that are removable and I'm going to
show you a bit more detail about those in a minute because you can remove them and install them
elsewhere which is interesting, and another thing you can do is you can install them on the back of
the back plate that sits behind your motherboard, which I'll show you later on. Another highlight
is that it has this PWM fan controller in here, you can plug up to six fans into that and then
all you need is SATA power and a PWM header on your motherboard and you can control the fan
speed of those fans, and I'm going to use that for this setup and show you how that works as
well because it's pretty easy to set up and straight forward. Now this is the back plate that
I was talking about. You can take that off and I have done for mounting because obviously you need
to put the back plate on your motherboard to mount the cooler, but here you can see a close-up of it
and you'll note that it says HDD and also SSD so the proposal is that if you want to mount your
drives in a space other than the standard ones you can put them on here so you can include
an SSD on the back of this for example, and that's how they claim you could fit up to four,
otherwise you see you have the three trays at the rear here so if you have a multitude of storage
drives that you want to use then you can do that. I'm only going to be using one in this build and
I'm not using any hard disk drives and for good reason but I will show you why later on. Now down
at the bottom you'll see the cables for the front panel management and I'll talk to you about how
this works a bit later on but there's USB, USB-C, SATA power, obviously power for the reset
buttons, front panel audio, and other things too. I'd recommend referencing your motherboard
manual for where to install these but I am going to show you how to set up some of them
a bit later on and talk about the interesting highlights of them because there's actually a very
nice addition to this case in the form of a very small accessory that's included in the box which
makes life a bit easier depending on how you set your case up as well. So already you can see a
number of really nice highlights to the design and it carries on impressing as you go through
as well. Now like the 4000D and a lot of other Corsair cases because they're very good with this
sort of thing there's a nice cable management system on the rear that runs on the left hand side
and on the right as well, so you have two spaces. You'll note that they have velcro ties on them
too which basically allows you to keep your cables in place without having to use plastic cable ties
which I think is great because it means you can temporarily keep the cables in place as you’re
putting the thing together and make things a lot neater and easier. Now down at the bottom there's
a HDD case, so you can basically install your hard disk drives - up to two if you have them - and
you can see you just slot them in there. Now with the 4000D I noticed there was a problem removing
this tray. These screws were really tight in and it was very difficult to get in there. I'm happy
to report with the 5000D I didn't have a problem, obviously if you do you could use a coin or pliers
or a stubby screwdriver to get it out but it came out for me really easily which was nice because
on the 4000D it was a nightmare. Close up you'll also know that you can move that tray forward
towards the front of the case if you want, so if you have a larger power supply
unit, quite big one for example, you can mount it further forward and then you have
easier access. I will note, though, that I did do this as in pushed it forward and mounted it there
and yet still when I went to mount my power supply unit as you'll see later on in the video I found
there wasn't enough room there still. It looks like quite roomy but actually it's quite tight in
that way so a bit more on that as we go through. Now inside of one of those hard disk drive trays
you get a little accessory box that includes, as you can see, 12 velcro straps so you've got
loads of straps for strapping those cables down and keeping them out of the way, and they're
easy to install and I'll show you how to install the extra ones if you need them a bit
later on. This little right angled accessory for your USP front panel connection which
makes life easier depending on how you're setting it up if you're mounting a radiator on
the side of the case this is particularly useful, and then a multitude of screws. There's also an
extra rear mount for the door, as you might have seen that earlier on basically it keeps the door
from slamming. You have eight washers, three extra motherboard standoffs, although you have standoffs
included as well anyway installed, pre-installed, and then there's 20 short fan screws, 18
motherboard and hard disk drive screws which are very small ones with a round head
on top, and then eight SSD screws as well so, a number of different screw options included
in the box basically everything you need which makes life nice and easy as well. One thing I will
note that is sad is they don't include any plastic cable ties, but the velcro ties are actually
very good for keeping the back nice and neat and one bonus of this case as I've already said is
that back panel the door once you shut that that shuts away a lot of your shame and it's actually
surprisingly easy to get quite a lot of cables going on back there and control boxes and you'll
see that as I go through because I basically left the cables kind of messy because I wanted
to demonstrate how easy it is to shut things away and not have to worry about it, it's very nice
and you can just admire the front of your case and not have to worry about what's
going on in the rear. Now for installing the side fans you need to take this panel
off and you access that from the back, and there are a number of screws to it which are
on the left hand side and then they're hidden underneath the velcro ties on the cable management
system so you need to remove those straps in order to access those screws. This wasn't
initially obvious or immediately obvious to me and so it took a minute to work out, but it's
also a bit of a pain because it means you have to remove those straps, and then you have to put
them back in again which can be a bit of a fiddle, so hopefully this will make that a bit easier for
you if you're planning on doing it, but basically it's nice to be able to remove that tray, you can
take the tray out then you can align your fans as I'm going to install them and then put it back in
place. And you can see that there nice bit of tray and there's obviously two of these because you
have one for the front as well, and then there's the cable shield. Now for this installation I'm
going to be taking that off as well because I'm going to be installing three fans on the side. You
could leave that in place and then you can just have the cables nicely hidden behind it, if you're
not going to use the side panel for those fans you could just leave that there, and you don't have to
use that side panel, you don't have to put fans on the side at all, it's a personal choice about how
you do it and that shows you the different options available. Now as I said you have the option to
mount two 360mm radiators in here. You’d think there will be three but you can't mount two
with the front and the side at the same time, you can only do your front and the top or the side
and the top, you can't do all three. Now for the case itself I'm going to be using Corsair’s
ML120 PRO RGB fans for the front and side fans, and I'll show you the setup process for that now.
I've done videos on these fans separately before. If you want to make the most of your RGB you might
be better off looking at Corsair’s QL120 fans, which are really nice and I've done videos
on those before as well as the setup process. Now if you get a triple pack of ML120 RGB
PROs you get an RGB hub and an LED core, and I'm going to show you how to set that up as
well, and then obviously the fan screws to install the fans and cables to connect it because
you need to connect the LED hub to your motherboard via USB connection to then control
the fan's lighting from Corsair's IQ software. Here you can see the ML120 RGB pros they're very
nice fans, decent airflow, Corsair’s well known for the ML120 fans and them delivering a good
high quality amount of airflow and that's why we're going for those ones and this, Corsair was
kind enough to send these over. The QR120s aren't as good for airflow but if you want an aesthetic
they are probably preferable because you - even if you mount them backwards for intake purposes
you don't see as much of that sort of back end of the fan that you will see on the side in front
of my case internally. Now when you're setting up the fans you need to make sure that you're
setting them up so that the cables go to the rear and are pointed in the right direction, I actually
made a mistake on the front panel version of this which I'll show you in a minute and had them
initially the wrong way around but with this one you can see that I've basically run them into
the back. Quite easy to do with this rear one because it's just tucked away nicely anyway, and
then you've got a bit of a fiddle to try and get it back in place with the screws because I had
to move the cables out of the way, sort of hold it in place to be able to then screw it down on
both sides. But that setup process is generally pretty straightforward. Now I'm going to be using
the PWM controller that's included in the box for the power of these fans, and then the RGB Lighting
Node and the LED Core to do the RGB lighting side of things but you can see the installation setup
here with those mounted on the side you'll see what I was talking about you obviously have the
crisscross of the rear of them, but these are set to intake so you can see where the front is that's
where the air is getting pulled from, so I'm pulling air from the back of the case inside of
it and then I'm going to exhaust through the top. Now the SSD trays as I said you can take them
off from the rear and you can mount them on the front which is pretty interesting so that's an
option, and it's actually worth considering in the way I'm going to be doing it because I'm going
to be installing multiple controllers at the back, and so I want those SSD trays out of the way. You
could just take them out if you're not using them, if you're using NVMe SSDs, or if you're just using
standard platter hard drives or a mixture of those two, you don't need to keep those trays in there
you can just take them out. Now the front panel that comes out just as easily as the back one,
actually probably a bit easier because it's just held in place with thumb screws and then it's just
a case of removing that standard air guide fan. I kept it in place initially so I could then
work out where the other fans were going to go and screw them in easily and this is the point
that I was making about making sure you install the fans the right way because I initially got
the cables the wrong way around the clips on the right hand side that you can see here, those
are the ones that are going to slot into the back and so you want the cables to be pointing out that
side so that you can then put them into the back of the case and keep the mess to a minimum, and
there is a quirk to this installation with this front panel which I'll show you which results from
the rear panel so you can see the setup now I've got the fans installed the proper way, with the
cables pointing in the direction I want them to. Obviously you then need to manage two cables for
each fan but the setup is basically I’m intaking air from the front and the side now. So we've
got six fans pulling in air from the front and side into the case keeping things nice and cool,
putting the airflow in there, I'm making the most of the maximum amount of airflow here as I can
while also using the controller that's included to keep things nice and straightforward. Once
that's done you can then just slip this back in place, get those two notches in on the side
and then screw those thumb screws in to hold it in place, fairly straightforward. What you
will note now is I then need to get the cables for those three front fans to run into the
rear, and what I found and what I came across immediately is there's an issue because there's
no holes for those fan cables, at least when you've got the three on the side installed, and
so it's a bit tricky because it’s not obvious immediately how you're going to do it. Obviously
you can't run them across the front of the ones that are installed on the back because that
would be messy, so what I ended up doing was I installed it so the bottom cables of the bottom
fan went out underneath the bottom down here near where the hard disk drive tray is and sort
of slipped underneath the bottom of the rear fan, and then I went for the top and middle and
tried to go over the top. Now one thing I thought was you could hook them through the
loops where the rear panel door goes in and it is actually possible to do because there's
enough room so the cables don't get squashed, so just for demonstration purposes it doesn't
take up too much space and it is possible, but the problem here is obviously where are the cables
going to go when they go across that fan area, they might end up getting in the way and getting
caught in the - in the fans themselves which should obviously lead to a problem so I ended up
fiddling around and running them over the top and actually managed to get it quite neat. Now once
they're through to the back the RGB connections on those fans needs to go into the RGB hub, and then
on the top of that on the right hand side you then connect that into the LED Core which I'll show
you a bit later on. Now if you want a sequence where the RGB lighting goes through one fan then
into the next one into the next one the next one and goes up and down your case basically, you need
to make sure you plug these in in the right order, so is [inaudible] basically going through
from the front bottom there's number one, and then the middle two, top three, and
then rear top four, and then basically color following that sequence and end up with having
all six of them plugged in and you can see the final result here with that. Now as I said the
power I'm going to use the PWM controller for, and again use that same logic so apply and plug
in the power cables from each of those fans in the same order into the PWM controller which is
clearly marked, and once you get to the end of that you then need to plug that into a PWM system
fan header on your motherboard and that allows you to then control the speed of the fans from your
motherboard software, which is pretty handy, and then this controller just needs SATA power.
So that's a fairly straightforward affair. Now you can run that cable through to the front and I'm
just plugging into my system fan header but make sure you check your motherboard manual to work
out which one is the best for you. The RGB hub has a sticker on the rear of it that can be
removed and plugged in. Obviously point of note again is all of this is additional purchase. These
fans, that RGB hub, and all that doesn't come with the case as standard. The case itself only comes
with the two air guide fans, it does have the PWM controller but this is - basically I'm showing
you the potential options for how you could set the case up. Now once the fans are all plugged in
you need to then plug this connection into the LED core and then plug that in to the end of the RGB
hub, the LED core then needs SATA power and then that also needs to be plugged in via a USB cable
that you can see here, so you plug that into the top of that and then that goes into the USB
header on your motherboard. That then lets you control the lighting of those fans via Corsair's
IQ software, and that means that you can sync that lighting up with other Corsair things, more
fans for example as I'll show you in a minute, or other peripherals that you might have, so
you’ve got our LED lighting control from one and then the power controls from the other. Now
here's how to get those velcro straps back in, you have to put them in backwards and they're a
bit of a fiddle to get through, I found if you just bent them around, maybe created a bit of a
hook on them it is possible to get them back in, and there are multiples of them included
in the case which as I said earlier is fantastic because it basically means you can get
those cables nice and neat as you go through. Now another option for controlling the fans if you
don't want to use the PWM controller is another separate purchase in the Commander Pro. This is a
brilliant fan controller, which allows you to plug in up to six fans, two LED connections, two USB
ports, and four temperature sensors, and this is great. I've done a video on this in the past, it's
a fantastic bit of kit, it is an extra purchase but it makes life a lot simpler because you can
see that you have that LED connection so you don't need the Lighting Node Core, you can plug your RGB
fan hubs directly into this, and you can plug your fans into that for the fan speed instead of the
PWM controller. Another point of note is that Corsair told me that you can use the PWM
controller take the PWM's output and put that into one of the connections on the Commander Pro if
you're using that, which means that you can put in more fans into this case, because as I said as
standard you can have 10, if you do a push-pull setup with your radiator which I'm going to do
you could have 13 potentially, so you have 13 fans maximum in here. So here is the Corsair IQ H150i
Elite Capellix in white, and I've done a video on the black version of that separately, we're going
to do a video on this white one separately as well and I'm going to show you the basic steps set
up on this now and then in the other video I'll do benchmarks and things like that so you can get
an idea of how it performs. One of the things I'm going to show in this video is how to do push-pull
setup on it because I think some people might want to do that, you might want to take advantage
of the design of this case in order to do it. Inside this box is Corsair's ML120 fans but
they’re a different version to the ML120 RGB PROs which is worth bearing in
mind because it's best to use the same fans for your push-pull setup, and if you can
help it the same fans throughout the case. So, in my instance I'm going to be using, I happen
to have two lots of these ML120 fans from the Elite Capellix setup because I had the previous
version, so it's not a problem for me but I'd recommend using ML120 RGB PROs for the entire
thing, get six of them if you can. Here you'll see the Commander Core which is included with the
Elite Capellix Cooler, and that is basically a variant of the Commander Pro, and that again
makes life set up really easy, I'm going to talk to you about that as we go through. This cooler
also works with both Intel and AMD setups and, it has a removable faceplate that you can swap out
with another one and customize the design. You can even 3D print your own if you're that cool. The
cooler itself is also very nice and it comes with pre-installed thermal paste so the setup of
this thing is really simple, and it's a very nice looking bit of kit actually the white one
looks a lot better than the black one and there are some other minor changes that they've made
to this cooler which makes it a lot easier to install and it's really nice. Now as standard
it comes with white fans obviously it's a white AIO so it comes with white fans and that has a
very nice aesthetic to it, but as you've seen already I've been using black fans the rest of
the case, so I'm going for a kind of a white and black theme and so I'm going to mount those white
fans on the top where they won't be as visible. Now you'll note that this is quite an interesting
design that Corsair’s gone for, they've recessed the top so that you can mount your fans on top
if you so choose, and obviously this gives you different options, but for this I'm going to be
doing the push-pull setup where I'm using the fans that come with the Elite Capellix on top, and I'm
going to be exhausting through them so I'm setting them up to pull air through and then I'm using
the black ones that I have spare and I'm mounting them on the radiator. One of the issues I've had
with Corsair rads in the past is getting the long radiator screws to install in the rad through the
fans has always been a real pain. On this one, on the new white one it is actually a joy, I didn't
have any trouble on either side installing the long screws in, they screwed in perfectly first
time without any hassle which I can't tell you how fantastic that was because I was dreading setting
this up but it was really good, dead easy to do, so I installed the fans, the black fans on that
one obviously making sure they're going to go to the rear. I know which way around I'm going
to put my rad in so it's worth working that out before you start. Now I've put the other fans
on top and I'm just putting the screws in place, you see the longer ones, and it's also worth
noting they send enough to do this so they actually send enough screws in the package for
you to do a push-pull setup even though you don't have enough fans included in the box because you
only have three, but if you happen to have six there's enough screws in there so you can do this.
So now what I'm going to do is hold that rad in place with the screws that are going through
the top fans so they're screwing through the top fans into the case, through the case and then
into the radiator. That then holds that in place and then you have a push-pull setup, but the
bonus of this is because those fans are on top and they're in this recessed section on
top of the case, they aren't inside the case as a push-pull setup usually would be, which means
you have the benefit of extra room so there's no hassle or worry potentially about how that will
impact your motherboard or how you can set that up and there are obviously other options. You could
front mount the rad or side mount it, there are a variety of different ways to do it. I'd say either
top mount or side mount would be the best option and front for intake because that'll give you the
best airflow. Now here's the Commander Core, which as you can see is very similar to the Commander
Pro. Now the Commander Core is better in my mind, apart from the fact that it doesn't have the
USB connection on it. But what it does do is it allows you to plug in both the fan power
and the RGB lighting for each of those fans straight into that. You don't need to worry about
an extra RGB hub for them. So, we're going to install all six of those fans into that Commander
Core, making sure they're going in the right sequence that would match up with the front ones
that was running through but also just generally making sure both cables for the power
and the RGB go into the relevant slots. So for one fan it was obviously RGB one fan one,
the next fan’s RGB two fan two, so you've got the power and that matched up along there. Another
thing that you'll note is that randomly wanted to test this out is that you can put the dust cover
on top of the fans and then the standard cover on top of that, no problems at all there the fans
don't interfere with it and it is possible to do. People will argue and say “you shouldn't put a
dust cover on top of something that's exhausting because why would you, dust is not going to come
from inside your machine,” but I still like to do it because when my machine's not on, you
might get dust falling from the sky into there. Anyway then you've got the Commander Core all
set up with all the fans plugged in you then need to connect the pump head, and the pump head
connects via this simple connection. You can see the little marking that's another highlight and
change that they've done which makes it easier lets you know which way around you need to install
that, dead simple. That control box then needs SATA power and a USB connection and then it will
work as standard. Now here's that mount that you saw earlier on you can essentially you have two
different mounts that you can put on the front which basically accounts for the options of what
you've done whether you've installed radiators or fans, whether you want to hide things back
there, or whether you want to show it off and maybe get a bit more space. I've gone for this
lower one, if you had a front mounted or side mounted radiator that obviously gives you a bit of
extra room as well so it's preferable. Now we're getting near the end of that section of the build
and you can see all the fans looking pretty good, most of the cables are out of sight and it's
looking pretty neat. There are a number of cable tidying hooks and sections in the case both
front and back which will make it even easier to get things really neat if you're really OCD about
these things, but I think generally speaking apart from maybe in that top corner where the front
panel was coming out is looking okay so far. I've got it set up like this. Now the reason I did
it like this is a strange order, usually I put the motherboard in first and then install the radiator
and that but I'm basically moving my pc from one case to another so I wanted to minimize the
amount of time I didn't have access to a computer, so that's why but this actually backfired on
me and I'll talk to you about that in a second. Front panel USB connections quickly you'll see
you have two front panel USBs with the yellow accent on them and USB-C and then obviously HD
audio, reset button, and power button. For me it's a bit of a shame because I'm actually missing
out on some USB connections because I've got two front panel USB headers on my motherboard so
I’m actually losing some versus the Dynamic XL, but otherwise it's a very nice setup and pretty
straightforward. You'll note that that rear door, that rear panel there has a nice bit of mesh on
it and another dust filter so there's plenty of goodness going on here. Now for the installation
of course there’s RM850x which is my power supply unit, I've done a video on this separately if
you're interested and want to find out more about it. It's a 850 watt power supply, not too huge and
a pretty good amount of power for what I'm going to be installing in here, I'm going to include the
specs for the PC in the description if you want to check that out. It's an Intel Core i9-10900K, 64
gigabytes of DDR4 RAM, and an MSI RTX 38e SUPRIM graphics card, a SSD drive and three NVMe drives
and obviously the cooler and other things, all of that stuff basically means this amount
of power is worthwhile having but what you will notice there is that I had problems installing
this PSU with the hard drive cage in there still, and I've also gone for the option of not putting
the power supply unit cables in before I installed it, it might actually be more sensible to do that,
it makes it a lot less sort of faffy once you get in there but I think you'll probably find that
it's quite tricky to get in. Now if you have hard disk drives I think they might be a bit difficult
to install, if I'm honest, with this amount of space unless you have very small hands. That's
probably one problem we might have with this case. You can see there isn't much room there,
where the hard disk drive tray was initially mounted is basically where the front connections
would be touching now as I put them in here so it would be impossible with it as it sets as
standard, and if you mount it further back it's probably plausible but it'll be very tight so you
definitely would want to put the cables in first, then put the power supply unit in but you probably
have to remove the cage as well because I couldn't even get the PSU in there with that cage on
the front so quite tricky and a bit fiddly and one of the potential problems with it. Now one
of the nice things that I do like that you've just seen there is that door comes off, so that door
can be removed when you're in the build process which makes life a lot easier and then when you
finish put it back on, close it, and hide all your shame away. Fantastic, really simple. Now as I
said the case itself has the motherboard standoffs pre-installed and there are extra ones if you
need them, I've got an e80x motherboard, this is the MSI Z490 Godlike, really nice motherboard
by the way, and the installation of that was very simple, this e80x and as I said there are
included screws in the box that you’ve just seen there with these sort of round head on them, those
are the motherboard screws and they also work for the SSDs and you basically just need to screw
your motherboard down and secure it in place. Now I'm going to show you the setup of the AIO,
you basically get that pump in the stores so just showing off that so included in the box this is
a Z490 which means it's LGA 1200 socket and as I said I'll go into more depth from this setup
process and the cooler itself in a separate video, but basically for my setup what I need to do is
install this back plate at the rear and then some standoffs for the pump head inside this container,
and screw that down. You can see there are separate ones marked for whichever setup of socket
you have. Mine is the LGA 1200 so that's the bag I need, it's all nicely labeled so of course they
make the setup of this fairly straightforward. Very nice pump that goes really nicely with
the 5000D so if you're wondering which one to go for this might be worth considering. It
is one of the nicest looking ones I've seen recently for sure, and certainly nice looking
than the black one, not that was a bad look. So this plugs in the rear, you'll note
there's a 3m sticker to hold it in place and then the standoff screws screw in on the other
side. I'd recommend if you're doing this to hold the back plate in place while you screw one
of those screws in because it makes life a lot easier. Once you've done that then it's
just four screws in either corner around the CPU and then you're just putting the pump head down on
top and screwing that down in place. Nice, easy, straightforward setup process, as you can see
things are coming together fairly nicely so far, we haven't had much in the way of hassles. Now the
pump head itself has thermal paste pre-installed and you can see the way I've set it up it looks
like it's going to be a problem because the front of it, the pump is upside down
or at least the plate on the front is, but the good news is because it's
removable you can actually take it off and turn it round so you can get it set up the way
you want it. Now there are a number of different ways to set up your pump and I'm probably going
to get people telling me that this is wrong, but it works well and I've done a good test on
it and it runs quietly and the good thing about this AIO is that it runs with a 0 RPM mode
where you can basically say it's - the fans don't come on unless they're required to which
means it's insanely quiet, really good design. Now another thing that I mentioned earlier
I'm showing off here is that you can remove that front plate and you can change it for another
one that's included in the package, and you end up with a different look to it. I actually prefer the
extra one, the secondary one it looks a bit nicer, a bit cleaner and has a really cool design to it.
Now this is with an Intel bracket as standard. It will fit with AMD but you need to do some
other changes to get things to fit nicely, but the installation is really simple with these
pumps basically just put it down in place and then screw it down ever so gently, don't over tighten
it with the thumb screws and make sure that that's held in place nicely but not so every time they
might destroy things. Now you'll note there's cables coming out the bottom of the pump you've
got to work out where those are going to run to to keep things neat. One cable goes to either
the CPU pump - either the CPU fan header on your motherboard or the pump header on your
motherboard, I'm going to use the pump one and then you'll note the other cable goes around
to the rear so you can see I've got pump fan one up the top here, I'm gonna install that and
basically connect this little connector here. It's a three pin connector that connects to a
four pin header on the motherboard and it's the same for the CPU fan but don't worry, it will
work perfectly well here without issue. Check your motherboard manual for the recommendations
on where now. Now, here we come a cropper, and this is my fault potentially but an interesting
note if you're doing a setup similar to mine, I'm running two PSU cables to the top to power
the motherboard for my CPU and those need to go in through the top, which is not necessarily an
issue at least it seems like it's not gonna be you've got a nice bit of channeling running along
the side there so you can hide that, and then you just run them out the top. However, this is where
I had a problem. Because I'd already mounted the radiator I found there wasn't enough room between
the gap that the radiator was leaving and the motherboard and the pump and the radiator itself
[inaudible frustration] which essentially meant that I couldn't fit the power cables through and
you can see I actually cut that footage down what there was about five minutes of me desperately
trying to get that through there before I gave up and realized I was going to have to remove
the rad again, so let's take the rad off which in fairness isn't that hard I just have
to remove the screws from the top fans, and then put it into place, plug in those two
cables and you can just put it back again, so I'd recommend probably installing your
motherboard first and the power cables first, and then doing the rad next. However there was
another issue when I went to put it back is that I found that the fit between the radiator and the
fans installed on it and those power cables is now very tight, it is pushing against the top of those
power cables, unfortunately I haven’t got a clip of it but it's a very tight fit and quite awkward.
This is obviously going to depend on your power cables and also on your motherboard set up, but
it's worth bearing in mind. Now the front panel connections also need setting up obviously, and
then all the SATA power, you can see I've got SATA power for the RGB hub, the LED Lighting Node Core
and the Commander Core, they all need SATA power, the front panel connections run through this
is the USB-C connection for the front panel, and that plugs in there and then you have the
other USB connection which can be a bit fiddly, and because it's quite tight it fits in one of
these connections. I've got two, you probably will have one, most people have one unless you've
got a very fancy motherboard, and you'll see that there's quite a lot of bend to it but then
Corsair's included this accessory which normally you'd have to buy separately which is a 90 degree
angle adapter which allows you to plug in the cable at a different angle. This will be very
useful to you if you've decided to side mount your radiator on the side because you won't have
enough space around there for that cable to plug in, and I found this with other PC builds, I
did with the Lian Li I had trouble with it, and this is a really nice addition that
you wouldn't normally get for free. Now then it's a case of running the USB cables from
the various devices at the rear Commander Core, Commander Pro if you're using it, the RGB fan
hub, those things need to be plugged in with USB connection that goes to the USB header on
the bottom of your motherboard usually, check the manual again to make sure you know where
that's being installed. Now I'm going to show you the installation of SSD. I've only got one
standard SSD drive in my setup and it's perfect to be able to show you the potentials for it. This
is a one terabyte 860 PRO EVO drive from Samsung, nice drive for sure and useful for demonstrating
this setup, so as I said earlier you can install these drives on the front if you so wish you
can see around the back I've got a lot of control boxes installed now so there's not
much room left so installing it on the front is actually a potentially good option. However when I
went to plug in the SATA power connection and the connection to plug into my motherboard I found
that I couldn't actually mount this because the PCIE power for the bottom of the motherboard plugs
in there is necessary alongside the USB cables, means there's not actually enough room, it's
impossible to mount it there. However you can mount it on the left hand side. Now this might not
be an issue for you depending on the motherboard power connections that you have, however for me
it definitely was and that was a real annoyance I'll be honest. However I could mount it on the
left but if I had two drivers I wanted to mount I'd have to find somewhere else to do it. Now
there are obviously the three mounting points at the back and that back plate that I showed you
earlier that would fit behind the motherboard, behind the CPU, so there are other places, however
it does limit your options which is a shame, and also with the problems I had with the hard
disk drive section there's an issue there as well so I feel like there's problems going on with
the storage potential here. However if you have NVMe storage you might not have an issue at all
if you're not bothering with SSDs or hard disk drives then it's not a problem. Now we're going
on to install the RTX 3080 from MSI, I'm going to do a video separately on this, I'm also going to
do a video separately to show you the difference if you vertically mount in this case because I
did a video previously on vertically mounting in the 4000D airflow and the difference here is
now this case is bigger, it has a lot more fans on it, it also has fans pulling air in from the
front so I think the test will be interesting so I've benchmarked with this up and I'm going to
benchmark again with it vertically mounted and show you how to do that so if you want to do
vertical mounting with your GPU be sure to hit that subscribe button and come back to check out
the other video that'll give you the information you need on how to do it and whether there's any
difference in the heat that comes off it. You can see the 3080 has a decent amount of room in there
it’s quite a chunky card this MSI one but it sits in there fairly well. I have used MSI's little
mount to deal with GPU sag and that's that thing that you can see at the front with a SUPRIM on it.
Now going back to the rear you can see as I said I haven't cable tied to a great deal, I've used
the velcro straps and it kind of looks okay, but I can hide it behind this door. You
will note that it's not perfect so the door doesn't close. Uh-Oh, this might be a problem!
But no, it's okay actually because once you have that door sort of slightly closed and you
put the rear panel on, it clicks into place, screws down and there's no bulge and no noticeable
problems. So now your shame is hidden away behind a door and there's no dramas at all. And then
you have the PC nicely running and looking fantastic at the end of the day. Obviously it
defaults to rainbow, the RGB lighting, and that might not be your personal preference but don't
worry once you get into Windows you can go into Corsair’s IQ software and change that with ease,
as long as everything is connected as I've shown it's not a problem, and you can adjust the RGB
lighting on the pump head and on all of the fans and then obviously you can go into MSI's Dragon
Center you happen to have a MSI motherboard and sync that all up lovely. The end result is a very
nice looking bit of kit that runs nice and cool, and what I will say actually as well is that
this case runs quite quietly despite having this number of fans, you can obviously control
the fan speed of those front and side ones because of it's PWM connection so it can be
controlled via your motherboard software, and you can set 0 RPM mode on the AIO or quiet mode and it
runs quite quietly, and that is a bonus. And the bonus of the MSI GPU is it has also a 0 RPM mode
so it won't spin unless it needs to, so this case actually ends up being quite quiet and you also
have a good bit of cooling on it. Now you will note that I haven't installed a rear exhaust fan,
you could potentially do that, I would however have to work out what I was going to do with
the RGB lighting because you probably would need another RGB fan hub, and then you’d need power,
so there's another connection because I filled all my connections but you could run it onto a
fan header on your motherboard and maybe just put in another RGB hub for that rear or even just
not have - use the air guard fan as at the rear if you wanted to if you weren't too bothered but
what I've opted for here is a pretty good setup. Now I ran this through Heaven Benchmark, and I'm
not going to go into a great deal of depth here, but I will include some of the links in the
description so you can check it out. I've done a heaven benchmark and I did 3d mark and
PC mark and I ran it to test it out there and see how it performed, and the temperatures
are actually pretty good. I got some good temperatures out of it, generally speaking
we were looking at about 60 to 68 degrees, the CPU when running Heaven on maximum settings,
and this is on a normal Samsung monitor as well, and then Timespy stress test gave me 69 degrees C,
Timespy Extreme was about the same, and the real test came when I ran it for about half a day using
folding at home on maximum both GPU and CPU loads. I think it's got a bit toasty there where it ran
at 70 degrees on the GPU and 80 degrees C on the CPU so it did get fairly warm. It was also running
very loud so if you do do something that requires quite a lot of power and processing, it will
use a lot of fan speed and result in it being quite noisy but that's the same for any case to be
honest. Folding at home there's a lot of pressure, but I got some very dirty looks from my wife
because she was in the middle of a team's call with work when that was bellowing out a amount
of noise, and I tested with the sound meter from various different angles, and as you can see
at the desk it was getting around 50 but then it was topping out at like 70 from the top so the
closer you were the noisier it is but it did sound very loud. You can probably hear it a little
bit in the background as I'm talking now and it won't do it justice, it is quite noisy,
but that is fairly not that standard you most people won't be running folding at home and
for gaming it certainly wasn't that loud, but obviously you can go from 0 RPM all the way
up to extreme performance mode where those fans are spinning, giving you the maximum airflow and
best performance possible and the end result was good performance and I've already enjoyed this
setup. Also the aesthetic on the 360mm H150i Elite Capellix is really nice, that pump head looks
fantastic, those white cables look great too. If you want to see more about this and find out more
about the RTX 3080 and that Elite Capellix pump be sure to check out the links in the description,
and check out my channel in general because I'm gonna do separate videos on those, and again as I
said if you're interested in seeing how this case performs with just two fans in it, or at least
two case fans then obviously the pump as well, then come back for that because I'm going to
do that as well and I'm interested to see how that stacks up, if you're interested to see
how it performs with blowing just one fan at the front for intake and then four exhausts,
because I'm gonna use three on the pump and one of the rear and see how that gets on. This has
been the Provoked Prawn, hope you found this video useful, you made it way all the way to
the end, I'm aware it's been a very long one, thanks for watching. This has been The Provoked
Prawn, thanks for taking the time to watch this video. I hope you found it useful, interesting,
hilarious, or all of the above. Be sure to check out the description for other information
you might find interesting and subscribe and watch these other videos as well that I think
might be useful to you, and have a great life.
