Construction Timelapse of a Mountain Home

[Music] welcome to the perkins builder brothers channel in this video we're going to go through all the steps of building a custom home here in the mountains of western north carolina it's about a 2 000 square foot home on a full basement we got going with this basement foundation by pinning the four corners with stakes then we pulled string lines between those so that we could trace the outline on the ground with some spray paint these spray painted lines is what we'll follow with the excavator bucket to dig the footings as we're digging the footing we're using a laser level in a reader to make sure that the bottom of the footing is flat and at least one foot below grade to the bottom of the footing below frost line which is code here this ridge line was just barely wide enough for the house and some of the post footings you see here on the right did have to go way down to hit original soil through some fill dirt that was pushed out when this site was made [Music] one of the reasons people want to move to this area is the amazing views here we're looking at about ten thousand acres of the nantahala national forest right out the front our next step after digging the footings was to do the steel work that will reinforce the footings and help tie the basement wall to the footing for this particular foundation we're using number five rebar which is 5 8 of an inch thick and it comes in 20 foot long sticks we installed two rows of rebar horizontally sitting on rebar chairs which holds them out of the dirt so it doesn't rust [Music] since the slab in this basement will have drain lines run under it we had to put in a sewer sleeve underneath the footing to make sure that we have a way for that sewage to get out of the house [Music] next we installed these j bars which are just pieces of rebar bent at 90 degrees they'll help tie the footing to the foundation wall [Music] and after a foundation inspection we were ready to pour concrete and this guy had to back in about a mile because he couldn't turn around on the site [Music] for this footing we used a concrete pumper because we couldn't get the concrete truck close enough to the footings to pour the concrete in we want to make sure that the concrete is level on top for our block foundation so we're just filling it up until we reach the top of our grade pegs which we also set with our laser level and we know they're perfectly even once the concrete had cured enough to stand on we set up our lead poles and these will help us to build the block wall faster because we can hook our lead lines to these without having to build block corners first and with that we are ready to start mixing our s-type mortar and start laying block you can see here how hooking our string lines to our lead poles gives us a nice straight and level reference to lay the corner of each course a block to [Music] since our block was delivered to the upper level of the site and it needed to get down to the bottom we just set up this board and used it as a slide for our block and that worked really great this basement wall will be a total of 14 courses high and that will give us a clear space of eight foot eight inside from the slab to the ceiling and nine foot four from the footing to the top of the wall [Music] the corsa block in this basement wall will be filled solid with concrete and to give it even more strength we added steel vertically and horizontally every two feet like grid work so when it's poured it's all steel reinforced as well at the point our block work was finished we were about six working days into this project and it was looking great [Music] our next step was to install the plumbing drain lines for underneath the slab and since our mini excavator was no longer on site we had to do this trenching by hand these trenches were sloped at about a quarter inch per foot and that's a good slope to make sure that everything drains properly we also added a pvc sleeve that will be the inlet for the water line coming into this basement and after another inspection on this plumbing we were able to cover it up and move on to the next step next we needed to move this 20 tons of gravel from the upper level down to the basement and it's code to have four inches of wash stone underneath a basement slab like this in our area we didn't want to do this by hand though so we rented a track skid steer and it was a lot of fun to drive this thing compared to driving a wheelbarrow [Music] once we had all the gravel in and leveled we had to dig out a few spots to make the slab thickened in areas that would be load-bearing in the future framing we also went ahead and put a parge coat of s-type mortar around the whole back side of the basement and this will help to aid in waterproofing and make the wall look better then we dropped in this number five rebar every two feet on center around this whole wall to help prep and get ready to pour the wall and finally before the concrete showed up again we added a six mil vapor barrier on top of the gravel that will help keep moisture from coming up from the ground into the slab and with that we are ready to pour the slab and the wall we pour the wall first so we don't splatter concrete onto our slab from the wall and we're again just using some grade pins here and screening between them to get this nice and level [Music] finishing the concrete into a smooth slab is a several stage process for us we start out by using hand trowels and these knee boards to get out on the concrete before it's cured enough to get out on with a machine then we use a power trowel which is a bunch of trowels attached to a gas motor like an upside down helicopter that does this a lot easier than doing it by hand and this is the first of many passes until we get it slicked down to a final finish after letting our concrete cure for just a couple days we can start bolting our mud sill to the top of this wall and our framing will attach to this and on our basement level we started framing the walls that will match up in height with our block walls around the rest of the exterior of this home that's not below grade as with any framing that touches concrete the bottom plate of this wall is made out of pressure treated wood we used box style headers for over the windows and doors and this is a yellow pine two by twelve with two by sixes top and bottom and we waited to add the inside layer until we could insulate the header [Music] before framing any of the interior walls we cut some control joints in this slab and this basically gives a weakened point in the slab that's straight because concrete will crack over time and it looks better if it cracks in a straight line and won't be noticeable next we could start framing our interior walls and something interesting about framing on a slab like this is that slabs are not perfectly flat that means they have a little up and down so to account for that we usually pull a string line across the top plates and measure down to the slab in each location for each stud and cut it to length accordingly especially for walls that will have the floor bearing on them on the next level we try to make sure that the stud layout will match the floor joist layout above and after doing some diagonal bracing to lock these walls in plumb and straight also doing some fine tuning with a planer to make sure they're perfectly flat on top they were ready to lay out for our floor system [Music] this floor system is 2 by 12 yellow pine joists and we put them 16 inches on center with all the crowns facing up we do all the common joists and then come back and put these band boards on plumbing each end of the joists as we nail them with a little time still left in the day we decided to go and get our wall sheathing on the exterior of these basement walls here we're using zip system wall sheathing which has a built-in moisture barrier so there's no need for a house wrap [Music] advantages of building a floor system out of solid yellow pine like this compared to floor trusses is that it usually costs less money and it doesn't make the house much taller most floored trusses like this would be two feet tall versus one foot [Music] with the floor framing complete we could start installing our subfloor and here we're using advantek x factor subflooring which has this additional yellow layer on it to help it shed water because subfloor will just sit in the rain for a while before you get a roof put on next we started laying out our top and bottom plates for these main floor exterior walls and as we lay these studs down i'm making sure that all the crowns are up in the same direction and this helps to get you a lot straighter truer wall we decided to build this tallest gable wall in one piece all the way up to the ridge which is generally called balloon framing meaning that you just skip the floor system and do it all in one piece and it is stronger this way it was a real challenge to lift and we didn't even know if we could lift it we had some extra men on the job just in case and thankfully we were able to get it up and plumbed and braced [Music] and with one of the scariest parts for me now done on this project we could start in on framing the decks and we started doing that by plumbing all of the porch posts and these are ground contact rated pressure treated posts which is a special treatment process that keeps them from rotting even if they're touching the dirt [Music] with the deck framing done in some temporary decking down so that we could get into where the front door of this house is going to be we can now close off the end of the house with this other exterior wall next we finished our preparations for backfilling by adding this bittothane 3000 waterproofing membrane on top of the block wall and also adding a french drain around the entire perimeter of the basement down against the footing at this point we got a machine back on site because we needed to add gravel on top of this french drain system here we're using a piece of sheet goods just to direct the gravel over top of the perforated pipe and once that was done we added some filter fabric to keep sediment from building up down in this gravel layer and that would prevent water from getting to the pipe and getting out from the back of this basement if it ever gets down there our local building inspector had to check on our french drain and our waterproofing to make sure they were okay and after that we could go ahead and backfill the basement [Music] with this giant pit around the house now filled we started stocking material to build the next floor of the house and this floor doesn't cover the entire first floor leaving an open vaulted ceiling over the kitchen and living room which is a really nice feel for this mountain home [Music] and now for one of my favorite parts of any build is building the roof in this case it's a 12 pitch roof which means 12 inches of rise for every 12 inches of run which is a 45 degree angle which is a steep roof the ridge will be a load-bearing ridge in this case that is supported at each end of the structure and also in the middle it will give the upstairs loft this cool vaulted ceiling with about a 14 foot peak in the middle once our lvl ridge was installed we installed rafters about every 10 feet down the length of the ridge in order to brace it straight before adding the rest of the intermediate rafters and these rafters are 20 foot long 2 by 12 yellow pine and they're heavy just fyi [Music] we did build one exterior wall upstairs for this shed dormer and it'll give you full height walls all the way out to the edge here [Music] with the main roof line framing completed we headed down to start building the roofs over our porches several of the girders needed to be supported by the exterior walls of the house so we had to notch in a location for those girders to bear on and that's what i'm doing here after setting the low side girders we could scaffold way up to set the ridge beam and then start sticking in a rafters much the same way we did on the main roofline except this felt even higher because i was looking down through another 10 feet of decking to the ground [Music] before we install the roof sheathing i always like to finish installing the wall sheathing if possible because it makes the house strong it continuously diagonally braces the walls which is really important because when you put the roof sheathing on it's like a big sail up there we're installing these panels horizontally but you can also install them vertically and that cuts down on blocking in some cases then we're able to install these pre-assembled fly rafter assemblies that are built sort of like a ladder this will give us the overhang on the gable ends of the house and give us our termination for the fascia board that run the rake end of the house and with our fascia boards on we could finally start putting the roof sheathing on and get this house dried in [Music] since we don't own enough of these walk plank brackets to do all the roof surfaces at once we tear them down off of each side when we're done and move around to the next here's a closer look at how we notch the top of the porch post so that the girder will sit on them and the posts will attach to the side of the girder giving it great uplift support as well as downward support our side porch is covered by a shed roof that's a 412 pitch and here we installed the ceiling joists first to give us something to stand on mainly and then we installed the rafters which just lap up over top of the other roof line that's up higher our rafters simply attach to the side of our ceiling joists and run across the outside corner of the girder with no bird's mouth cut [Music] and just like our wall sheathing to seal this roof system all we have to do is tape the joints of our panels with zip tape which is made by the same manufacturer as the panels in my experience this is a lot less work and a lot faster than installing a roofing underlayment and it keeps it about 99 dry until you can get the shingles on [Music] with a nice roof over our heads it was time to finish out these interior walls that will be framed up to the sloped ceiling these take a little longer because of the slope and we also frame the stairs and they go all the way from the basement level to the third level and that was about a two or three day project just in itself [Music] and before starting our finished materials we helped the plumber get this sewer line buried that runs out to the septic tank and then to the leech field that's down off the mountain [Music] for the exterior finish we started with the soffits and fascias and that's because we don't want to break any windows while we're installing trim material above the windows and we can also stick braces out of the windows to set walk boards on so it's just a little easier we're using lp smartside expert finish materials here which are pre-finished which is really nice no painting after the install the windows on this house are a vinyl frame and most of them are horizontal sliders and the main reason we chose this style is because they're inexpensive compared to a lot of other styles you can buy windows are really expensive these were about ten thousand dollars but you could easily get up to thirty forty even fifty thousand dollars for wood clad options these are new construction windows so you simply nail them in using the vinyl flange and roofing nails and then we use zip tape as a flashing tape to seal everything up on this job we also decided to try out this hydro gap drainable house wrap that leaves a small space behind the siding because it has small rubber nodules that space the siding out if any water were to get behind the siding it could drain out easily we use the lp smart side expert finish siding on this house as well which is pre-painted and most of it's lap siding that's a six and a half inch reveal blind nailed with the exception of the dormers and some of the gable ends where we use shake panels [Music] once were done dragging scaffolding around for the most part we went ahead and installed our decking this is a trex composite deck in a color called saddle and we're using the hidden fasteners that lock into a groove on the edge of the boards to give it a nice clean look this was my first time using the hidden fasteners and i was worried they would be a lot more work and a lot slower but i actually think they were faster than face screwing and it definitely did look better [Music] up next we did a little more structural work installing this giant 6x6 collar tie across the front of this porch roof this will help hold the roof in tension and keep it from ever spreading or sagging [Music] in preparation for installing stainless steel cable rails we installed all the wood parts of the railing and then stained them so we wouldn't have to stain around cables later which made it much easier once the framework was ready we started installing the cables and we have tyler here from louisiana he's from ha stainless and e-rigging.com we're using his axis stainless steel cable system on this job and he's a pro at it so we just thought it'd be great to have him on the job [Music] and with our cables complete and the roof installed which we hired out to some other people the outside of this house was completely done and looking amazing if you're still here let's go ahead and talk about what we did on the inside of this house up next we did a bunch of blocking to prep for all the things that would nail and screw to the wall including cabinets and then we built the front steps and got the railings on them [Music] with the outside of this house wrapped up the plumber electrician heat and air guys and insulators could finish up and we took the time to do a little honeydew list stuff at my house the hanging in the finishing of the drywall was another thing we subbed out to another crew but once it was done we got in there and cleaned everything up because we're the paint crew and we like to get it really clean before we start spraying we also masked off all the windows or anything that we didn't want to get primer or paint on and this is a really important process jamie takes really good care rolls the edges almost like a gasket and staples everything so no overspray can get around it and on our windows once all the prep work was done which took way more time than the actual priming i could get in there with our airless sprayer and put on a nice coat of primer on everything including the ceilings [Music] a very important and often overlooked step after that is to sand the walls once the primer is dried and that gives the walls an even smoothness and gets rid of any rough spots we also used the paint sprayer to spray on flat white ceiling paint on all the ceiling surfaces and then we rolled and brushed on all of the wall colors and this is the first of two coats which is really what you need to get a good paint job if you just have bare walls to start with this particular house had some really fun wall colors which i enjoyed it's really painful to paint white paint over white primer just doesn't feel like you're getting anything done but here we could definitely tell we were getting something done and it turned out looking great [Music] all the vaulted ceilings in this home got a 1x8 tongue and groove finish and this is just pine boards we put finish on them in the shop before installing and you'll notice that the ceiling has this house wrap installed above the tongue and groove and this is to stop air movement into the insulation layer through the cracks of the tongue and groove before installing wood floors we always like to do any masonry work including fireplace or tile work so we got started by doing the stone work on this fireplace the hearth has natural stones that we picked up locally and cut to size and installed but for the rest of the fireplace we use this evolve stone which is not really stone it's manufactured you can cut it with anything including a hand saw and you just shoot it to any kind of plywood backing with a finish gun which is really nice for installation a pro tip for using this product against the plywood backing is to paint the plywood black so it minimizes the visibility of any small cracks between the stone [Music] [Music] up next we got going with tile work which first starts with installing a backer board we're using half inch backer board against the wall here because it's the same thickness as our drywall and quarter inch backer board on the floor so that the backer board plus the tile equals about three quarters which is a normal flooring depth for cutting tile we have two great tools one is this wet saw which uses a diamond coated blade and water to keep the tile cool as you're cutting the other one is this snapper tool i'll call it you basically score the face of the tile and then put pressure on that score and it snaps the tile straight and it's great for cutting tile inside [Music] [Music] with most of our messy work done now including painting and tile we got going with our wood floor this is an engineered wood floor that means it's basically made out of plywood layers with a real wood veneer on top we're gluing it and stapling it down and the glue here acts as the vapor barrier we're traveling it onto the subfloor with the eighth inch knots trowel and it sticks really well one of my favorite flooring tools is this flooring jack that prized the last couple boards tight when you can't get in with the big nail gun against the wall surface [Music] for our interior window trims we're making them ourselves and we like to make them in one piece including the jam in our shop so we can pocket screw the whole unit together and make it really strong this also eliminates the need to put tons of nails in the face of the face trims to keep them locked in place with the units pre-built like this we were able to install all the window trims in the whole house in one day [Music] with our flooring installed we could get going with our cabinet install we're installing kitchen cabinets vanity cabinets and a wet bar in the basement these are custom quarter-sawn oak cabinets made by cole hill custom cabinetry in tennessee one cool tool that nate our cabinet guy had that i've never seen before are these bessie cabinet clamps they help to hold the face frames tight and flush at the same time so you can attach them together with screws easily and get it just right to attach our island cabinetry to the floor we first laid out the locations with blue masking tape and then we screwed these cleats to the floor through the hardwood flooring and then that's what our cabinets attach to through the kick plate we also finished out our upper cabinets with some crown molding and some light rail on the bottom this helps to disguise the under cabinet lights so you can't see them as easily [Music] i do want to give credit to some of the other teams and people that we hired to help us on this house including the electricians the plumber heat and air guys insulators drywallers and the roofers they all did a great job and made this thing possible another major task for finishing this home was getting the finished treads risers and skirt boards installed in the stairwells here we're using lexile to stick these stair treads down you could also use subfloor adhesive then we face nail them and fill the nail heads if you don't use some sort of glue or adhesive you are bound to get squeaks in the future though i can tell you that we bought these treads and risers stock off the shelf at our local lowe's store they're yellow pine and they're relatively inexpensive compared to using hardwood like oak for your treads and risers but they are softer so that's one thing you'll have to deal with for the price [Music] continuing with the floors in the basement we laid this lvp which stands for luxury vinyl plank floor it's floating and it went together super fast it's water resistant scratch resistant and really great option for a basement with all of our flooring now installed we can go ahead and hang our interior doors and these are six panel pine doors they're pretty much stock off the shelf about 150 bucks pre-hung on these flat jams [Music] [Laughter] [Music] after getting the jams positioned we took the doors off took him to the shop and even though these are new doors it takes quite a bit of prep work to get them ready for stain the color we're using here is called special walnut and it is special because i like it we use it a lot then we're doing two coats of water-based polyurethane over top of that sanding between coats [Music] the next bit of this project was pretty fun we built a custom railing really rustic out of these timbers and some rebar for the edge of the loft we started with these 4x10 timbers cut them down to size for a top and a bottom rail next we cleaned up a bunch of 5 8 rebar by using denatured alcohol to get all the rust off and just get them clean enough to put a coat of polyurethane on them for this we used a spray-on satin polyurethane that's what really gives these balusters a finished and cool look in this process [Music] after assembling our rail sections we cut each top and bottom rail down to the final length we didn't want to make them too short to start with that was the main goal [Music] back in our shop jamie was working on some metal brackets to attach these railings to the wall into the post in a nice clean way also giving it a nice rustic look [Music] with our brackets and our railings complete we could finally do the install which was the fastest part of this job by the way and the most satisfying and i think it turned out looking great [Music] we had also fabbed up some custom metal handrails to go up the stairwells in our shop and we got a coat of black paint and clear polyurethane put on those before installing them [Music] this house also had three tile showers and we did the tile work ourselves for some reason and jamie did this most intricate part with this creekstone inlay which turned out looking great in the end but it was a lot of work [Music] [Music] now into the finishing bits of this project we installed all the hardware on the kitchen and bath cabinets and this is a little scary because you're drilling holes in like 10 000 cabinets so you don't want to drill a hole that's in the wrong place by accident we make sure to take our time and get this done right we had one blind cabinet in the kitchen and i forgot to show it earlier but this was a really cool use of the space using this revi shelf that slid in and completely used the inside of the compartment but you could slide it out and get to the stuff the next day we got our appliance delivery from lowe's and i really prefer to install our own appliances especially the microwave i don't really want anyone else like a teenager that just got a job delivering appliances hacking away at some of the work we've done so we got the microwave in and also unpacked the washer and dryer which were stackable and had to get them stacked and put in place as well [Music] at this point in the project we were able to get a temporary co co stands for certificate of occupancy and that's what you get when you pass the final inspection here they're just making sure that there's no live wires hanging out of the wall or anything like that so that the duke energy people can come hook your permanent power up it's an extra inspection charge of 50 to do this but i think it's well worth it having power in every receptacle and lights on in every room while you're doing the finishing details of the house one of the final steps of this project was to get the solid surface countertops installed we're using vandelay stone here and yes they named it after vandalay like in seinfeld and it's usually one of the last steps because after you get your cabinets installed is when they measure for the countertops then they still have to make them here they're using a no-lift system and it's this cart slash jack that lifts up the slab level with the cabinets then it rolls off since granite is actually pretty fragile they're using these braces and cup system to keep it from snapping in thin areas like where the sink installs [Music] [Applause] some other finishing touches here were to paint all the exterior doors to match our trim on the outside of the house which is also one of my least favorite things to do but it had to get done we also put out ground cover and this is really for the bank they won't give you the final payment unless there's something on the ground besides dirt and also every single window in this house with tons of windows was really dirty and they all needed clean so it was another thing we just decided to tackle ourselves this was also one of those things that's not my favorite thing to do but we got it done this home has several propane appliances so we contracted with a local propane company they came and buried a tank and ran a yard line to the house that'll run all of those appliances [Music] some other finishing touches here were hanging this woodpecker door knocker we had to modify it slightly but this is actually pretty cool and pretty fitting for the area this house is in [Music] and with several more days of touching up paint installing light bulbs hauling all of our tools and other leftover crap out of the job site we could finally call this place done and give it a final walk through if you're wondering this house had about 2 000 square feet of heated space plus a storage and mechanical area it's two bedrooms three and a half baths and it has a loft which could double as a bedroom if you want all the details on every step of the process of this six-month build check out our playlist building the nantahala retreat on the perkins builder brothers channel and thanks for building with us [Music] um [Music] bye

Channel: Perkins Builder Brothers

Views: 4,375,712

Keywords: Building, How, To, Build, House, Home, Vacation, Income, Property, Learn, Construction, Wood, Framing, Masonry, Block, Foundation, Carpentry, Be, Your, Own, Contractor, Wall, Roof, Floor, Deck, Patio, Remodel, Cabin, Mountian, Perkins, Brothers

Id: ftt-JWHI1Js

Length: 32min 17sec (1937 seconds)

Published: Tue Apr 26 2022