Chevy Truck - No Start No Crank

their viewers welcome back to the self main auto channel because this 2006 Silverado 1500 - got towed in with a no start no crank guy drove it to work in the morning went to leave to go home and there he sat no lights Ron did appear to be a dead battery so he had it towed in on a flatbed and they just dropped it off so he pushed it inside here or dinner they push it and I actually drove it in I went out to get in it and to start it and he was right you know I turned the key on you know - lit up radio everything's nice and bright no definitely not a dead battery turned the key - would go blank nothing happened seen this before on some of the other Trailblazers and other GM's and well frankly they have some problems with their ignition switches so that's what I assume this one was so what I did is kind of held the key in the start position turned it a little bit harder than you normally would kind of wiggled it a little bit and off she goes so I've decided that pulled inside before it craps out on us again I highly suspect the ignition switch is bad simply because that's how I got it running and that you don't seen it before but what we're going to do is we're just going to see if we can make it not start and I get 100% definitive test on it and then if that's case we'll put a new switch in it easiest thing we can do is have ourself a wiring diagram here hybrid stuff and we're going to start our circuit so we'll see what what wires are coming out of the switch see the easiest place to test these and that looks like our switch right there okay so we've got a couple fused powers going into the switch here and then we just have one start wire coming out of this yellow wire so that should be a pretty easy test and we can first start our test by going directly to this crank fuse in the under hood fuse box and we'll check we'll just check for power there while we're attempting to crank it hopefully it doesn't start a lot of times when you fiddle with them like I did they'll kind of continually start afterwards but maybe we'll fiddle with it a little bit see if we get it all we got to do is catch it in the act one time and we'll call it confirmed so what we're after is our crank fuse you can see that's right there it's a 10 amp fuse I've got the old scope on a rope that's all we need to test this jab get this hooked up see what we see what we're going to do I'm going to try to get this you can see all this on the inside as we're cranking it it should be this fuse right here it's 10 amp fuse I'm going to put so the fuse extension in there so we can get it up where we can test it and then I'm going to jump across this with a fused jump wire for the 28 fuse in internal s better than nothing right and then what I'm going to do is hook a hook a long thing a test wire around here we're going to run this inside will hook it to our scope just so we have our our test light just so we have a good visual reference inside at the moment we are turning the key and what we would expect is when we turn the key to the start position the test light should light up if we're getting a you know command signal out here and if it doesn't what we'll do is we'll you know assume it's the ignition switch in which case we'll go to the ignition switch check the to power inputs and then double check this wire at the switch to make sure sound we're not dealing with a broken wire so this is the wire we've got from the outside here we're just going to hook it on the end of our test site got the other end of the test light hooked to the ground or a ground cigarette lighters where I usually use we're going to turn the key on and crank it over and we can see here I must have just gotten lucky starting it because we can see clearly in the start position we have power going to the crank fuse every time I kid you guys none I went on there wiggle the key like this and it cranked obviously because I've got it inside well we know one thing is for sure first of all it's a good thing we didn't guess and just pop a switch in it and second thing we know that we have power obviously coming to the ignition switch going out of it to the crank fuse so now we got to look into this a little bit further you know is noticing one thing appeal you before eyes get now is we have no no key in ignition buzzer no nothing going on in here let's put the keys out and I turn the headlights on we got no buzzer either I don't know if it makes a difference but or if has anything to do with it by just thought I'd mentioned that in case for some reason here in a little while we find out that it does make a difference we can get our where stuff out here put our crank views back in it go look at a wire diagram and see where this goes from there this is kind of bizarre so if we come back over and look at our wire diagram we can see we check the just the one side of the ignition switch the start circuit which is right here which is this yellow wire that ran to the crank fuse which goes down to the PCM to send it you know crank voltage input some sort there but the actual actually kind of made a mistake on that because the one that actually I jumped the gun here the one that runs to the actual starter relay up here comes from the other side of the switch so we have to kind of look at something else I got I got a little head of myself there so we got check this ignition fuse B we'll check that see if that has power I think it does because everything on the dash lights up but this one here will come out with a pink wire on the ignition switch stays hot in the run and start position according to the diagram here that comes down and is fed through ignition fuse II which is a 10 amp things a Louie here comes up goes through our park neutral switch that comes up and is the control wire for our starter relay so the quickest quickest test with this is let's go right to the starter relay because that's easy to get to we'll hold it in the start position we'll see if we hear an audible click coming from there's a lot of clicking when we're when we're cranking on it and then from there it goes right to the starter motor so we've we should be able figure this out let's go right to the starter relay if that's not clicking then we'll work backwards but that's the kind of the fastest thing to go to at this point so we're back over to the fuse box here I've got our starter relay which is this relay right here first of all just see if we hear it and feel it clicking okay try it start it just second do it again okay that's good okay I just want to pull it off it's done it definitely is clicking so that answers quite a few questions actually so we'll come back over here and the starter relay is clicking now that does not mean the starter relay is good however it does mean the rest of our ignition switch is good we verified that this side of the ignition switch is good the yellow wire in the start position because that lit up our test light and being that our relays clicking that would not click unless this side of the switch is good which we know that this fuse is good all these wires are good this fuse is good it comes down through we know our neutral safety switch is good on the we know it's fall good up inside the fuse box right from here and we also know that wherever this yellow the starter in naval relay control circuit from the PCM is not being disabled because without that ground here on the relay we would have no click egde so where we've narrowed it down to basically the starter circuit so now we have to see if this ignition fuse here is good this 40 amp fuse which we don't you have to check we know that's good because that power feed came all the way over here and it ran the first wire that we tested so we don't have to look at that fuse we automatically know it's good so now we've narrowed it down to a single wire we either have a bad relay the contacts are burned out of it or we follow this purple wire down we have a bad starter starter starter motor or you know starter solenoid or something along those lines so let's just kind of yank this relay out and do a quick test and take it from there use one of these relay jumpers it's going to allow us to get to our pins externally while having relay in place now we're going to run a series of tests on here which we already have quite a few knowns we're going to see if the relays work and if it is we're going to go to the starter and see if we just have a bad starter okay so we've got our jumper plugged in here and we've got 85 and 86 on this side of the relay so we should have and then what's on this side yeah 8730 okay and remind myself here so we should have power on one of these which we do and then we come over here we have power on one of these 85 and 86 is our control side so when we go to start it opens this this is 87 pin 30 should become hot okay go ahead and try to start it get it off it do it again let off it do it again let off it okay so we can see that our relay is passing power technically if we jump it oh it gets a little spark there that's going to see that but obviously our problem is located down a little bit further our relays good its clicking it is making contact all our wiring is good up to this point our fuses are good so now we've got to kind of go down and see what's happening at the starter take our diagnosis from there okay let's see where'd we leave off here so we're down to the fact that we know the starter relays work and all the circuitry is good we're looking to this purple wire now that runs directly to the starter solenoid so we're going to like they're going to put up in here and go down have a look at it so I know a few you might question you know why I'm going about it the way we're going about it I hope everybody's following along but the only reason that I went to you know the fuse box first like we did with the test light is because I was really suspicious of the ignition switch should be quite honest with you and you know I'm glad I didn't take you know big fat guess and just slam it in there because like I say you know I mentioned beginning that when I brought this truck in to get it started just you know kind of held the key forward a little bit harder a little wiggle off we went and like I say I have done them before in these trucks and you know the parts stores these stocks over love them and I was just going to figure it was going to be a short video I'll show you how to test ignition switch but I'm glad we tested it anyways typically you know you get something with a no start no crank you know I guess depending what it is you know we can go right to the starter you know we could have went you're right in the very beginning and possibly going to get the same results whatever we're going to get now but frankly all the tests we did we didn't have to tear anything apart we could just do them right in the fuse box and that's pretty easy so in either case we kind of just started at one end of the circuit and working towards the starter instead of starting at the starter and working back and you know real-time testing you know if we're shooting videos and stuff this would be pretty quick so I guess it's not a lot of involved time and you know up until this point we really didn't have to put it on a lift but now we do so I've got the truck lifted up a little bit here super tight to record underneath what I've done is I've come through the right fender well here and this is our starter that sits in here I don't know if you can see it or not I hope you can kind of zoom in there a little bit well here's the starter the stud that runs right from the battery you can see we've got power on that let me move my flashlight a lil I know it's pretty bright I'm gonna still be able to see though okay so like I say here's the stud on the start of the runs from the battery we've got power there now we've got the the S terminal on the starter which is right here which should get hot if we turn it in the crank position okay go ahead and crank it oops stop just like the laughs what I did see it light up though okay crank it stop do it again okay stop okay so that means we are getting power down here and that was right on the stud so we know we you know we're not testing the wire itself we're actually testing the stud so that tells us you know that we're getting you know we don't have a poor connection you know checking this battery terminal here you know we're know we're not getting poor connection because we've got power add the stud or just make sure this powered is maintained when she cranks it go ahead and crank it okay the power number went away that's good so now I'm going to do is test lights hook to ground I'm going to hook a right to the starter case and if we have a bad ground on the starter our test light will light up okay go ahead and crank it which is not the case you can see our test light does not light up and it appears we've just got a bad starter solenoid in which case we'll buy the whole starter motor so see something here you know there test lights so good so yeah that's kind of where we're at so I guess in this case we could have could have started at the starter but like I say yeah hindsight is always 20/20 and I wouldn't have started the method that I did if I didn't suspect the ignition switch but this is the number one reason why you go through an actually test circuit instead of gas because that could have taken you know a few bucks out of our pocket I would had to cause the ignition switch tied up into a guess and the labor to change it so this guy just needs a starter pretty plain and simple it also needs a battery I see the battery in it's the original 2006 AC Delco battery and in just the time that I was sitting here with the kion for however many minutes it's been lights are getting really dim and I don't know if you notice but we were testing the starter relay their lights were pretty dim there and when I come down to do this actually have to throw a jump pack on it because I see the headlights were really dead and I hadn't been that long so I'm gonna go ahead and eat some lunch wanna call down and get a starter but put it on rare fire fix all right lunch is over I'm gonna take and I already unhooked the battery I'm gonna get the wires off the starter I'm just going to reach through the opening here in the wheel well it's kind of hard to record but just got your two wires your your little single signal wire to the solenoid in our battery wire but definitely make sure you got the background hook for this well tin heat shield there it goes on top of that solenoid so I'm taking kind of push that up by the way yeah it gives us a little more room there's one do a lot easier to do them from here than it is underneath come underneath yeah we tried to use a black socket that ain't gonna work of is me let's go chrome already got wires off up top so you can't get her wiggle out of here I think that heat shield is what told me up here take that off that's the full Tim shield it goes on down solenoid that's what was up here we got back there to crank Center so maybe what looks like it looks like it's like possibly the plug on the crankshaft sensor now let me see what I can do now that I got a light you actually see what I'm doing there's a plastic well place a guard here goes over the front of starter I think that's what's holding us up I think now we're just kind of tangled up in the wires look like it was uh possibly hitting that crank sensor but everything's kind of snug adhere yeah that's what this looks like we got a lot going on here you get your trainee lines at the way and everything else Wow thanks yes so clean up our end of our starter cable here for our battery cable a little bit just had a little bit of crust on it get the new one we'll put it in again our new one set up in here remember these starters being this difficult no that's difficult just uh what a crappy way these wires are way well I met move them wires down because kind of the battery cable was in my way I've got stuff that down here starter solenoid wires in my way we've got the oil level sensor there it's got wires on it and the current sensor this goes right back gets bored around there that's easier probably didn't you have to pick this thing off where'd yell away appears to be what I was hitting on kind of hell my whole day's been going here there I get these bolts started and get her snugged up here and heatshield back on it and then I get our wires hooked back up see if it works okay I think we're done I'm just about done we haven't used any brake clean yet so why don't we take our brake parts cleaner clean all of our grubby fingerprints off the new starter won't spray a little fluid film on those connections not a single cell phone on the video that's complete without brake parts cleaner so get our baby put in here or we get too far let's sing this toast can't believe the last of this one see it is the original I'm going to take and swap this out and then we will find out our diagnosis was good but we know it is because we tested it dragon fly there there you have viewers were all done got this baby back on her own disk I'll be happy at a little tow truck ride but it was definitely necessary starter was definitely junk I'm glad I didn't jump to conclusions with the starter switch and and like I say I was pretty pretty confident too and that's why I started the diagnose not like we did because I kid you not I mean just like it must have been you know purely coincidence that it did start but it just goes to show that you know we shouldn't really jump to conclusions and I just you know play the play the parks clown and you know go knocking parts at it because who knows that may have started when he showed up to get it and you know he could have ended up you know a couple days later same scenario and that's not good when they call you back and say guess what you know it's not not doing it you know it's not starting again so that's why it always pays dividends I think to take a few minutes go through it do the quick checks you know particularly the stuff that's super easy you know something just test read the fuse box with a simple test light you know nothing fancy you know no scopes no scan tools you know just a wire diagram and a little common sense but starter circuits are usually some I simple you know until the PCM starts getting involved which it's involved on this one too but we knew that the starter relay was clicking so that meant our computer portion of the control side of the relay was good I'll put a little link in the description that explained how relays work if you're not familiar with that and that's it here it is pretty easy so anyhow viewers check us out on Facebook if you haven't already you can like us there find us on Google+ too if you want to connect with us socially there if you haven't subscribed to our channel yeah I just ask that you consider it that way there you can stay up to date with our latest publications we try to put out weekly but it all depends on our workload here at the shop so I guess that's it we got to move on it's a busy day so thanks for watching viewers and remember if I can do it you can do it

Channel: South Main Auto Repair LLC

Views: 1,326,168

Keywords: chevy, gmc, 1500, 2500hd, no start, starter, ignition switch, bad starter, starter relay, bad relay, fuse, won't crank over, won't start, security, how to change your starter, how to fix a no crank, why wn't my truck start, fuel pump, eric o, south main auto repair, avoca ny, avoca, sma, dead battery, How to replace starter on Chevrolet Silverado, Starter Chevy GMC, Starter won't engage and no Solenoid click, solenoid clicking, relay click, How to Troubleshoot the Starter

Id: 6rWrRzzZ_3s

Length: 27min 49sec (1669 seconds)

Published: Thu Aug 27 2015