Capture One Pro Tutorial Series | Adjustment Tabs & Tools

welcome to the fourth tutorial in my capture 1 series in which I teach you capture 1 and short easy to digest chunks so far we did a quick episode which was a tour of the program in general and then showed you the library tab and we did a scenario where you'd be shooting multiple looks perhaps for a model or a product in a single day and how you might organize your files use smart albums and things to make things nice and easy for you we then covered the capture tab that's all about capturing images how you're applying adjustments all your images as you go and I also showed you one of my favorite techniques which was to use live view if you missed any of those videos they're all going to be linked down below in the description so make sure you check them out today we're going to finally get into some of the more detailed part to capture one some of the more interesting things and that is the adjustment tabs [Music] you I could spend a very very very long time taking you through every single setting inside a capture one but that would make this video two or three hours long and I doubt that most of you gonna want to watch that so instead I'm gonna assume you have a little bit of knowledge about this stuff and I'm gonna gloss over some sections and just show you some of the more interesting features inside of capture one before we get going with all of the adjustment tabs over here I'm just going to quickly take you to the toolbar which occupies the top part of the screen inside capture one most of this is pretty obvious so we're going to go quite quickly as with every other area inside capture one this section can be customized so see if I right click here and go to customize we can move things around dragging extra items the only two items that I like to have which are they already are show overlay and then also show focus masks so let me just get those in there and then we can go through this is just copy and paste so you select an image copy this and then you can select another image and paste easy these are rotate pretty self-explanatory you don't need me to go through those this toggles between whether you editing only the primary image that you have selected or all of them so if I selected all of these images here the one with the harder outlined is the primary image so at the moment that's the primary image if I select this one this is now the primary image if I have this selected or not what it means is say if I was processing all of these images then if this was not selected it would only process that image if it was selected a process all of them same for if you're copying and pasting so if I was if I turn that off and I click copy for this image and then paste down here it would only do it onto there whereas if that was on it would do it onto all of the images I'm pretty easy it's a little bit confusing maybe to begin with but if you're just experiment with it you'll get the idea overlay we covered in a previous video so I'm not going to cover that now check it out in the description if you want to have a look at that this just toggles it on and off so a focus mask is quite cool especially if you're doing outlook there is already it's already loaded up so we have the overlay here it's an image this as a PNG and you can just turn on and off this is show focus mask which is really useful if you're doing things actually taking models essentially it just turns every area that's info Green so if you're shooting models and you don't want to have to zoom in all the time and check the focus and be like oh is the eye and the focus or whatever and you can just have this on and then you'll know so that's really useful this is for proofing so if you're trying to check for what it does is it proofs your recipe so you can check the ICC profile and other settings that you've applied this is a exposure warning so as you can see if I turn this on and off check out the boat down here you see how it turns blue that means that it's clipping the blacks in this area so if I go into edit and preferences and we go over to exposure here then we have a two options hit so we have a highlight warning and a shadow warning the highlight warning will be read at a minute there's only this little section over here in this image which is red but you can adjust how much you want the warning to come in so if I take this down at the minute anything over 250 will give show up a warning and anything below 5 will show up a warning on shadow side so if I take this down then you'll see more things that the sky starts to come in and the same with the black area so that's nice and simple nice and easy keyboard shortcut to turn that on and off it is ctrl E and then we have guides so you can toggle this on and off at the minute I've hidden some of them but if you double click on one of these then you can take you straight to the menu just like I went to edit and preferences then it's the same place but now we're just in crop so you have a grid so if I just turn this on that's kind of the standard state you'll see it in most of the time and you can just toggle it on and off here you can then go into this area and make adjustments so you can change the color of the lines you can change the number of lines that there are you can change the color of the guides so these are like guides manual ones that you would add on my 4k screen they look really thin so hopefully you can see these ok but yeah so if you go view you can add other ones so you can add more vertical or horizontal guides if you want and just drag them to wherever you want this is annotations I'm going to cover that later stage when we get over to the metadata tab over here it's a relative new feature it's really cool we'll cover that in a bit though here we have your cursor tool so whenever you click on one of these your actual cursor which at the moment you see it's the hand see the hand here your actual cursor will change this one is for annotations this is for copying and pasting this I think yet that's the white balance tool there's also a really cool one here that I love to you who just called add color readout if you long click on any of these it'll bring up a menu and you can choose other cursor tools you can use add color readout if I click this anywhere on the image and then it'll tell me the RGB readout for that section it doesn't sound that interesting might not sound that useful to you for me with my product photography it is amazingly useful and I love it here we have a brush which also has a razor mask and gradient mask in there we have spot tool this is the Keystone in which I'm going to cover in a minute straight and tool you can also rotate with this as well we have cropping loupe tool which is very cool this allows you to zoom in on particular areas of an image without actually having to zoom in which is quite nice then we have a hand tool which is good for zooming in double-quick and you can zoom in and then click and drag around your image and then we have the arrow tool I tend to stay on the hand tool most of the time over this IB have an automatic adjustment button click that and capture one will make some automatic adjustments for you I don't intend to use it too much but you might like that then you have an undo and redo button a reset everything moves to trash moves it selects folder capture an image and import the import tab if you want to import any images that you have already got on your computer you can do that from here it's pretty easy so I'm not going to go through your whole thing as you guys know I tend to use capture one as more of a tethering platform so I'm shooting with it throughout the whole day and images are being imported into it so I don't really use the import tab over here all that much okay let's get going with our first adjustment tab down so that is the lens tab most of this stuff is pretty obvious so we're going to fly through this one lens Corrections diffraction correction is quite a new thing if you're shooting anything where any aperture or diffraction might come into play you can tick on diffraction correction and capture one has a little algorithm I guess you'd call that they run and it just sharpens up areas that would be softened due to diffraction it's not perfect but it's pretty good and then we have sharpness fall off unlight fall off as you can see capture one knows the length I'm shooting with and it automatically has a profile for it so I was using the Sony 1635 you can see down here I was shooting at f/4 so the diffraction wasn't really coming into play and I was at 16 millimeters so capture one automatically because I was at 16 millimeters excels so wide it automatically see how it's some cropped in here you see this area outside of my image that doesn't exist on this photo here when you're in the crop tool it automatically shows you your crop so you can see caption has cropped in here that's because it's automatically made a distortion adjustment and that would have been because I was shooting so wide at 16 mil then we have sharpness oil from light fall-off this will be specific to the lens you are using so again these are just kind of correction adjustments which capture one can make purple fringing again another correction adjustment LCC LCC is a bit of a weird one so what it requires is like a plate that you hold in front of your camera and then capture one you take a photo and then capture one analyzes that photo looks where the dust is on your sensor and then will automatically remove that and any color casts that you have from your lens so pretty cool I've never used it but it sounds quite cool rotational flip is very obvious it mirrors these settings here for left and right you also have this tool here which can help you with horizons so if I was like here on this image excuse it being a little bit overblown and we wanted to straighten the horizon a little bit you click drag and then click on the other edge that you want to straighten and there we go he straightens it you also have this bit which is quite cool it's called a flipping so you can flip like you would do in Photoshop you could flip horizontally and completely change the direction of the image and you could do it vertically as well so that's quite cool here we have our crop you can add crop aspect ratios here add ones yourself these are that the stock ones and now keystoning oh actually now before I get onto that outside image this is really cool so if you needed to for some reason I have it happened to me all the time that I actually want to crop outside the area for whatever reason there might be if you're do need to do that you click crop outside image area and you'll be able to do so there is a limit to how far you'll be here to go but you can go a little bit and that can be really helpful so keystoning this you'll typically see it being used for architecture architectural photographers often use lenses like tilt shift lenses or even view cameras so that when they're looking up a building rather than the lines going all funny like they have done in this image in a second and they can straighten that in camera using either the new camera or the tilt shift lens I don't have one of those many people don't and if you're traveling around say on a holiday like when I took this photo you're probably not going to be carrying a view camera around with you so you can have adjustments that you can make inside capture one to straighten those lines on buildings so let me show you now so as you can see here this line should be straight I'm shooting at 18 millimeters and the camera wouldn't have been completely level so you can see it's a little bit off it's much more obvious in this photo we can see that's really really leaning back but I'll just do the correction here so keystoning you can do it either horizontally or vertically or both within this instance I'm just going to do it horizontally and what you do is you select these parts and you go to an area in the image that the that should be straight somewhere there should be a straight line if you hit H for the hand tool you can zoom in again hit K for the Keystone tool and then you can move these if you select them you can also use the arrow keys and your keyboard to make really fine adjustments but I'm just going to do this very quickly now we have my mouse zoom out hit K again and find another edge on the opposite side this should also be straight tall so roughly over here if you want to do good job of this you shouldn't be rough but I'm just trying to be quick why don't you got it in place you hit apply and you'll see a change will happen and there we go those lines are now straight so I'll just show a quick before and after and doing so demonstrate something else so if I right click on this and go new variant what that does is it copies our image creates a new version of it but it hasn't applied any of the settings that I have done on this image say see it's like a before and after this is before and this is after you see all the buildings being straightened if I wanted to create a copy which did have everything on here then you would go to clone variant and that's the difference between two so this one here is a clone variant this was the new variant now let's get rid of those by hitting delete and just go back to everywhere our next tab is the color tab so if we click on here the first thing we have in here is a histogram most of you should be familiar with that one of the most interesting features inside capture 1 we're getting 2 now and that is layers a lot of you are going to be familiar with layers from a photoshop if you use photoshop you're going to know exactly what this is inside of Lightroom there is not as far as I'm aware unless they've changed things they don't have this functionality what a layer does is it allows you to have your image on the bottom and then you can add layers above it which you can apply adjustments to so rather than applying adjustments to your layer you can to your base layer to your image layer you can add extra layers and add adjustments to those you can then mask those layers and make very very specific adjustments to targeted areas of your image or you can make global adjustments but you can stack them so you could have multiple curves you could have multiple anything and then mask them in different areas you could mask a curve in someone's eye or do dodging and burning on a layer or whatever you wanted there's there's so many possibilities for doing this and it makes capture one really powerful the standard way to create a new layer it would be to click here and as you can see a layer gets created you can double click on it rename it to whatever you want and then make an adjustment in our case I'm just going to do I don't know a very very quick darkening of the sky for instance now once you create a layer you'll see notice next to white balance when I change this here you see that little brush appears that means that the adjustment can be made as a not everything can be for instance normal eyes and black and white can't be but most things can so for the moment you I'm going to the next tab this is the exposure tab and I'm just going to darken the sky by oops I'm gonna darken the sky by a stop now you see nothing happened there and that's because I haven't drawn a mask yet what we've got here is a layer with no mask so there's nothing being applied to our image so I'm gonna grab the gradient mask that's this one here you can hit G if you want for a shortcut for it I'm gonna click hold shift and drag that down and what we'll see is the sky darkens if I hit M that shows us our mask and if I wanted to I could hit E which gives me the eraser tool but you can see up here right click I can change the size of this the hardness of it take the flow down a little bit so it's not applying a hundred percent immediately and just take this a little bit off some of the take it off some of the mountains up here because I don't want them to darken quite so much and then I could apply more of it there and there we go to a very quick darkening it's too heavy but you get the idea and you can apply under things to this it could be colors it could be curves it could be anything there's so much that you can do with this so that's delete that and go back to our background there actually I'll tell you what one other quick thing up here this is also another quick way if you try to switch between layers so you see we have both layers there if you have multiple ones then it's important to make sure you're on the right layer if you're making adjustments for instance if I wanna make adjustments now globally I should be back on the background layer so that's just delete this no and we'll carry on the next section we'll be covering is the exposure part and most of this is pretty obvious so I'm gonna cross over there but I think saturation is worth spending a second on because it does act a little bit differently to what you might be used to in other applications it acts a bit more similarly to vibrance so you can go a bit further with it you don't want to be too heavy-handed but you can definitely do more with it than you would do a saturation in other programs high dynamic range is pretty obvious if you've got anything clipping out so if I get control e control or command e to see my shadow and highlight warnings if you've got anything clipping on other either side then you can use these to bring them back you don't want to go too heavy on these because you can make a very ugly image very quickly that is horrendous don't anyone ever tell you ever convince you that that looks nice it's horrible and you used to see this all the time thankfully not so much anymore and if you ever want to reset your settings on something you can just hit that button and you also have a little Auto thing here so like with this Auto settings up here you can hit a and capture on will automatically make some adjustments it didn't think anything needed doing there here it thought it needs a bit of brightening yet you can do that on next to each one which is quite cool ok moving only have levels I think most of you gonna understand what that does curves again you're all going to understand that I imagine but there is one thing which is interesting we capture one is it has two different types of curves we have an RGB and a luma curve so if we continue working with this image and I just create a new clone variant so we have the settings copied across and I do an RGB curve so we'll do a relatively heavy curve this probably won't look very nice we'll turn off our exposure warning and then I'm gonna do roughly the same curve let's just have a look at that again okay let's do roughly the same curve luma doesn't have to be exact but it's gonna give you an idea so if I talk about Wien these two photos you notice there's quite a big difference in saturation if you look up here especially at the mountains you can really see that on this version where I did the RGB curve they're much more saturated than they are here and that's because this curve the luma curve acts differently it does not affect your color as much it's affecting more than luminosity in the image whereas the standard RGB curve is affecting more of the colors and you're getting a shift in color when you might only want to change luminosity I normally just use a luminosity curve and then I'll be dialing in my saturation in other areas I don't really like having the RGB curve also take care of saturation when I can actually dial that in manually myself that's a much better way in my opinion of doing it so let's just get rid of this one again I'd say what we'll just hit delete on the keyboard to delete that and let's move to the next section clarity you're probably gonna be familiar with this again from other programs and just reset this back to nothing there we go you're probably familiar with this from other programs but I'll just quickly explain here because there are a couple other things you want to be aware of so they have a few different methods of clarity and really you're just going to have to experiment with these to see which one works best for you natural is the default and that is my preferred way of doing it and so if we just max this out it's not going to look very nice or I'll tell you what let's put it on 50 let's not make it look too horrible I'm so if I put it 250 you can see if I just toggle this on and off it does make a pretty significant difference to our image especially in some of the details but if I go through these each one will do a different thing at effects colors and mid-tone contrast in a slightly different way so just experiment with which one you like best we also have structure clarity was explained to me by imagining a treat you have a picture of a tree then the trunk and the branches are being taken care of by clarity they're affecting the contrast for those areas where a structure would be doing the leaves so structure does all of those really really fine little details in an image you've got to be quite cautious here because you can end up introducing noise and some nasty kind of crunchy artifacts if you go too far with it so let me just show you here if I crank this up you can see it really I mean you really start to see these details in the mountain but obviously it's made the image look a little bit a little bit too crazy for me you're getting some things that don't look too great but it's fantastic if used correctly so if we were only to say use 20 and 20 of each quite a subtle adjustment nothing too crazy we're still getting a lot more details up here it doesn't look too bad it looks pretty good actually that's the original and that's the new version you can see tons and tons of detail so just be cautious with those vignette sing most of you going to know that so I'm skipping past that I just realized that I completely skipped out a section so we're going to go back one two color in color we have the histogram again just like we do at the top of exposure and we also have the layers tab so we have that at the top of both ones base characteristics is just going to be your standard ICC profile which phase one does for most camera bodies the latest ones it won't necessarily have but it does tend to get them in there pretty quickly your curve this is an interest for interesting one I know some people I've spoken like to use linear linear response curves because you're really really flat curve and then you can work from there personally I like to just go from auto and work from there it's not really a massive difference obviously your there is a massive difference but I think you can actually get the same edit from both and I like having a rough approximation of what I'm getting while I'm shooting because if you're shooting in linear and then I just feel like you you're not really seeing exactly what you necessarily wants quite difficult way to work so I tend to leave on auto white balance is obvious you're going to know white balance I hope next we have the normalize tool and for me as a still life and product photographer I don't really tend to use this all that much I had to dig into my archives to find some images that I could use this on and I've managed to find this old family photo shoot that I did years ago so what normal eyes were allowing to do is you can click anywhere in an image and then it'll analyze the white balance and exposure for that section so you see this little tab here there's still square which shows you the numerical values for I'm clicking on here so the green or the yellow or this top here or the blue in that top I think a lot of people use it for skin tones so I could click on the skintone here and say that I want that matched in another image so you'd then select this tool which would reply that and I click in roughly the same place on our skin tone and you see how that the white balance and the exposure changed there to match what we have in this image it's not perfect but it's done a pretty good job I'd say it's a little bit too blue but it's not bad and there are lots of other uses for it I've seen people using it in creative ways and you could also use it for instance here in a still-life shoot that I did where I want the background here to match and so as you can see it changes a little bit in color and luminosity let's use the tool here to copy that section and if you hold alt you don't have to select this one you see how the terse the cursor automatically changes there if you hold alt and I have the apply one and I apply that there and you can see that little really quite a good job of matching that still a little bit off I probably didn't click in the right place but this is a really powerful and really useful tool for a lot of people for me personally it's not but it might be really useful for you then we have the color balance tool this is pretty self-explanatory I'm not going to go through it too much we have a master one where we can adjust the color over all for the entire shadows mid-tones and highlights at the same time we then have a three-way one where we have the shadows mid-tones and highlights or we can see them individually like this so we see them individual that say I want to pump some blues into the shadow like that this controls a saturation so for the color that I selected you see how it's moving here on the saturation of the wheel so that's more saturation less saturated and that would control the luminosity of that section as well and then I first set say I wanted to add some yellows in the highlights very typical kind of fashion II sort of look hmm take the saturation down on that a bit and there we go very very quick adjustment there's a loading node you can do it this is just quickly showing it to you and then we have black-and-white adjustments click that to enable it you can change all your black-and-white settings there you can do split tones as well and then we have the color editor now this one I'm gonna spend a little bit longer on because it's extremely cool and I think you want to see how it's used so where's the shot I want to use for this one I told we can use this for a minute so if we go back to the color editor let's say I wanted to select a specific color in this image I might have taken a product shot of something and I want to change the color to something else or I might just want to edit a specific color so let's say I want to select the red of this rooftop here we take our color picker tool click on the roof top and you see it selects a certain part of the color wheel which I just clicked there so if we I like to over saturate this and it really shows me what I've selected you can also use view selected color range that turns everything out to grayscale except the selection that you've made personally I prefer just over saturating it that's going to be up to you which you prefer and now as I move this around you'll see that it selects other colors and I'll just apples ed that and it goes back to the color that we selected ed now we can then change our hue for that so I can make our rooftops more purple if I do this a couple times if you wanted to have purple or blue rooftops in Croatia and we can adjust the saturation of them we can adjust the lightness this is really really powerful if you're doing like I said if you're adjusting products or if you want to really just adjust the colors in an image in general you can make some really fine and really refined adjustments using this tool and the smoothness adjustment here if you check out this area check out this as I move smoothness the higher I go on smoothness them all that feathers out and that just means I'm selecting more of the surrounding colors so this would be a very fast sharp fall-off of colors that I've selected and that would be a nice feather it's good to have it roughly near the default you don't have to sharp of an adjustment otherwise you might see the edge of what you're doing so let's just get rid of this and move over to the skintone aspect of this now this is also pretty amazing but sadly not something that I to use all that much as a product and still life photographer a lot of portrait photographers do use this though you can select an area of a skin tone so say we like that area there you see it comes up on the color wheel of what we selected we can then adjust the hue saturation and lightness of what we've selected and we can also make it more uniform across the whole face so I will do something now it'll probably look terrible mm-hmm yeah so you see that takes the skin tones more toward green this is more toward red I don't actually mind where they are there at the moment we could saturate them a tad I've put in a little bit too bright to overexpose we darken that a tiny bit and then we could adjust the uniformity see how she's got quite a lot of red in her cheeks on her hand here if I take this all the way up then you see ignore the background but you can see how the face becomes really the uniform now obviously you would not want to go to maximum and it's actually quite nice for some ones I have some differences in color in their face especially red in a child's face it shows emotion but you know using a little bit of this you can adjust that if you want and for models or for for other purposes this could be extremely extremely useful our next tab is the details tab this one I don't think this very much I need to explain here I think you are all going to understand most of this stuff and we have a navigator which will show us where we are in our image so if I just hit H and zoom in you see it gives us all the ropes a representation here we can move around there we also have the focus window which is nice a lot of people often float this out and then as you're photographing let's say a model or something you can just be checking the focus on their face that might be on a second monitor or something that's quite nice to use and then we have the actual sharpening controls over here noise reduction film Graeme Moray and spot removal and for a lot of our adjustment tools and we have what's called presets which is I'm going to move to in a second but I can just show you here so these three lines denote presets if I click on that you can see there's a certain number of presets for sharpening so you have an automatic soft sharpening preset that's quite heavy preset if you've read if you really haven't focused quite well and you really need to sharpen it up and he have different ones here so I've quite a few tools have these presets we have one yet for Mauryan film grain and noise reduction and you can also save your own presets so let's move onto the next section which is all about styles and presets the difference between styles and presets is that presets are just for one individual tool like how I showing you there was sharpening we might have some presets for curves for just a few preset curves that you use in there very often violin styles away you've added an entire kind of global style for lots of different adjustments so you might be more familiar with them inside of Lightroom for example where they pick all developed presets and capture one they're called styles so you might have a style that has a whole bunch of adjustments made to it you click it and it adds all of them is your image at the same time I'll show you so here we have the adjustments tab inside the adjustment tabs and let's show you a few things so you have some built-in styles is what I was saying where they are applying lots of different effects so let's say this first one here spring one that kind of gives you quite autumnal sort of feel the only thing I don't like about this is that it's actually applying it onto her skin and onto her which I don't really like that too much so if I just uncheck that you see as you roll through them it gives you a preview on the image of it and as you click it you see it tick and then that's on there so if I uncheck that but then I right-click on it and go apply to new layer that creates a new layer with this attached to it so you can see it's got a new layer created with the name SPR - oh one which is the same as that and we have we still have our background layer if I go onto this we can see if I hit M that it's applied it everywhere but if I hit a so that I can raise it from certain areas then I could have raised it off of her well I didn't really like it I'm just doing a very very rough job but it just gives you an idea so now we can see if I go back over to one of our layers and I toggle this on and off then we can see it's now only affecting our background not affecting our subject in this case going back over to the adjustment tabs and we can see so Lightroom sorry capture one has some built in styles here we have legacy in spring they come with the program you can also buy plenty of other ones it's not something that I tend to use all that much but it would be very very useful if you have a high volume workflow loads of images like a wedding photographer or a portrait photographer or something and then we also have all the built-in presets so these are the ones like I was saying before we had all the sharpening ones I just showed you you can save your own presets and you can save your own styles by going to the three little lines just next to at all if you want to oriental lines and you could save your own preset or if you wanted to save your own style then you just can't to the top here stars and presets click this line hit save user style and then you can select the adjustments that you've made and save as a style and name it the other section of the adjustments tab that's worth noting is the adjustments clipboard when you're copying and pasting things you can actually choose what adjustments you want to copy and paste so if I hit copy here then we'll see all of these adjustments light up and we see everything that I have adjusted in this image is now ticked on here and I've now copied that but let's say for some reason I didn't want to copy layers I didn't want to copy this layer adjustment that I just showed you and made so now I've unchecked that and let's navigate to another image doesn't really matter what and I hit the apply button and it applies all those adjustments but it ignores the layer one I just did so that's undo that and we're gonna dock this back where it's supposed to go moving over to our final tab that's the metadata tab I'm gonna cross over most of this I don't think you guys need me to explain what metadata is if you do need to find any of it out it's all here you can search for keywords and add keywords here I explained how to do that in the library tab video but I am gonna cover the annotations tool this is relatively new to capture one and what it allows you to do is draw onto your image and add annotations so let's just say bear in mind I'm using a mouse here so this will look really bad and I can't even write oh that was supposed to be changed well anyway if you imagine that such change and it's pointing here and I don't know let's say you just got a bunch of adjustments that you want to make you want to retouch it to make and you've highlighted certain things like all can you change that change the color of the shoes changed edition you highlight a bunch of stuff you make a load of notes what you can do is you can actually export this as a layer inside a Photoshop so I'm not going to be covering the output and the cue tab in this video I'm gonna make a separate one for that but I'm just going to quickly show you what happens when you export this so if I go file will do it as a PSD 8-bit whatever yet that's all fine we want to open with Photoshop and the important bit is with the metadata I want annotations as a layer so if I hit ctrl or command D to process that you see the little cog comes up Photoshop is gonna open up in a second once this is finished processing you'll see that going across there my laptop might be doing a few other things at the same time here so I think recording video does tend to take up quite a little power recording 4k so there we go we can see it's opened up inside Photoshop and it's opened up as a layer so hopefully if you're using a Wacom tablet you can write a little bit better than that and you can actually make something that's kind of useful for a retouch or an art director or whoever is actually using it thanks for watching today guys I hope you got a lot out of this video if you have any questions about today's video about capture one or photography in general chuckle in the comments and I'll be happy to answer if you liked the video make sure you hit the thumbs up button and if you want to see more from me on capture one and photography make sure you subscribe alright thanks guys I'll catch you later [Music]

Channel: Square Mountain

Views: 1,818

Keywords: adjustment tabs, capture one tools, Capture one tutorial, Learn capture one, Capture one tips, Capture one pro tutorial, Capture one pro tips, Capture one education, Capture one guide, Edit raw photos, Process raw images, Capture one walkthrough

Id: KTlCr5gdF_4

Length: 36min 23sec (2183 seconds)

Published: Wed Nov 28 2018