Building the Ultimate 2 Stroke Trail and Play Banshee! Voodoo Banshee Finale

[Music] we up to there partner what's up man i'm just trying to cut some weight on my quad for sunday ah okay getting ready for the big race sunday huh alan doucher hey doucher for short i'll be there sunday too right on hey look if you're trying to cut weight drilling holes in the tire that might not be your best idea if you thought about loosening up your bolts okay now hear me out here how tight do you tighten up your axle nut 80 foot pounds 80 foot pounds drop them to 50 foot pounds each side that's 60 pounds right there top guys are doing it that's a great idea man this is gonna be great which bolts do you do your axle your hubs sprocket's a big one clutch flywheel handlebars too i don't know are you sure it was on it was on banshee hq yeah it was on cnn too it has to be true all right man let's give it a go [Music] it even feels like it's like it's easier to start they did say that on cnn too that it would be easier see you at the race is sunday buddy [Music] welcome back to basket case garage in front of you here is the voodoo banshee in exploded view literally almost every single piece of the banshee is laying out in front of us right now i can't wait to get this thing together if you haven't already i definitely recommend going back and watching the series from start to finish if you want to see details on all of these parts and everything here but today you and i are going to get together and we're going to build this thing and we're going to finish it today so we're gonna start in a little bit of a different order and we're actually gonna put the engine in first so usually i put the a arms and the swing arm and everything on and i'll make it a roller and then i'll put the engine in but we've got a really nice scissor stand that rocky mountain atv hooked us up with and i love using that thing and i think it's going to be easier to put that engine in first so we're going to come back and look over all of these parts and everything but let's get right into it and put the engine in all right here we go i appreciate you guys coming in early today and cleaning out the shop so we have a nice clean workspace now like i said since we have this tusk scissor stand this should make it really easy to put the engine in this will be the first atv i've ever built with this stand we built the grape ape with it it's really really helpful for that this is actually designed for a bike it has a 300 pound weight limit capacity so we might push the envelope just a little bit today is that good right there i have to think when i have this engine will it be easier to do this i don't know there's a number of pre-assembly things that i did if you're familiar with working with aftermarket stuff or you've ever built your own bike you know it never goes together just one two three just like that it just never it's never smooth man some maybe no it's never smooth i went around on any powder coated frame a lot of times you'll get you know little bits of sand and you know your threads are just they don't the bolts just don't want to get threaded in easy so i go around with a trace i did all of my threads you can see they're all nice and clean did the entire frame hopefully that will help things go nice and smooth some of these areas i had to test fit that's because some of the stuff just didn't want to fit upright we're using all new a-arms new suspension sometimes it just doesn't want to fit so i did a lot of test fitting then i went around all my bearings made sure that they're all packed with grease uh grease the inner lips of the seals stuff like that some of the stuff i didn't do because i want to do it with you guys because i know when you guys are assembling your stuff sometimes you know these are steps that if nobody teaches you how to do it you just won't know i've also tried to organize all of my bolts and everything in here is the stainless steel bolt kit these are all the old bolts and i've cleaned them all in the vibratory tumbler that gets all the rust and stuff off of them cleans the threads out pretty good and then i just put a thin coat of rust-oleum satin black on these things it's a really nice coating that keeps them from rusting it's not ultra durable or anything but you can wrench on these a couple times and the coating actually stays on there now before we put the engine in place there are these little things they're called damper spacers and they go on your engine mounting points one goes right here and then put another one back here on the opposite side it goes on the front left side and the rear right side now what a lot of guys will do is they'll take the lower struts these are the lower torsion bars that mount up to the bottom of the engine and then to the frame there's guys that won't run these and instead they'll put these bushings on both sides so it's all four points instead of just the opposing sides and that'll firm up the engine and the frame a little bit more from twisting however that does put a lot of stress on the frame and depending you know what kind of riding you're doing and how big of a bore you're going that can actually twist and break the welds in your frame so i actually bought four of these to possibly test that out and then we could lose a little bit of weight by not running the torsion bars but i've decided not to do that because the amount of weight that we're saving by not running these torsion bars is really negligible and to put the extra stress i just don't think it's worth it so just don't forget to put these on so i'll pop this other one in place back here all right now according to the manual they want you to put everything in from the right side and just as a preventative measure here try to not scratch up my frame just going to throw this fender towel in here and hopefully you know that will help us from botching this up all right here we go let's see if we can do this oh you know what i should take the stator cover off that's a lot better okay it's a really good practice to anti-seize all of your engine mounting bolts up really most of your bolts on these builds it's just a good idea to do this it makes taking tearing it down way way easier and i would also normally put a jack under the back of the engine and get those holes to meet up but since we're trying a different technique here and starting with the engine first in the stand i can't get under there so luckily the the engine's not that heavy so i should be able to lift it up by hand fit it into place and just slide this bolt in alright let's see if we can do this all right we're good now for these engine bolts i'm just going to put a little bit of blue loctite on there i have a locking nut too you don't want these things coming loose i'm not going to tighten these down until all of the engine mount bolts are in there now up front here we've got two motor mounts on either side i've sanded down the mating surfaces on here and on the frame that's just a good way to keep the engine grounded so we'll put these in place kind of just roughly and we're going to start using our stainless steel hardware now you have to use either anti-seize or you can use loctite like right here and that's going to act as a lubricant if you don't do that the hardware can gall and get seized and it's just it's it's something that you don't want to find out what it's like when that happens so uh just go ahead and use your loctite now these get tightened up to 22 foot pounds i'm gonna snug them up by hand because where these are located you can't really get a good swing with my torque wrench and then both the front and rear motor mount get tightened down to 33 foot pounds all right engine's in there that really wasn't too bad i don't think we had any casualties either all right let's check out all the cool parts going into this build i thought it would be cool to just kind of scan over everything and look at what's going into this build so come here man don't be afraid come here let me show you these parts this is actually insane to see all this stuff laid out in front of me this is a ton of preparation and work and it's finally just displayed right here and even though it's not together it's almost like it's complete it's just so cool so i figure we'll start at the top corner here sable 2 is the color on here and there's a tiny metal flake in it it looks really good there are some modifications done to this frame you can see we got the pegs i welded on there for the pro pegs that i designed we've got oem yamaha plastics right here these are the custom heel guards that we have going on there wicked metal designs hooked up some custom pegs we've got wicked metal designs made a custom grab bar it's got banshee right in the side this thing is awesome and it's a drop grab bar it's just like the one that i have on my 250r i love that thing this is our carbon tank cover by banshee taco for work seat cover this thing was a [ __ ] to put on man but look at the color the color pops like a mofo and it matches everything perfectly underneath this i have a brand new seat foam i got it with a firm compound because the banshee's just too soft man feels great it's like riding the couch but i think that for performance i think it's gonna be better to have a little bit more of a firm seat and then we got the engine man this should be in by this point in the video i've got the custom cover on there green is just it just says voodoo dude we got the cpi pipes here had those cerakoted by big iron cera coating we've got these i got new lights and these should be pretty trick because they have a blue halo should be awesome to see those on there got all the graphics right here designed these sent them out to agmx and they print them they always come out really nice got my logo on there this is my design logo all of the sponsors right there got our kenda tires on douglas g3 rear rims we've got the rock out front rims kenda's in the front as well and then moving up here we've got our brakes got the custom shifter that i drilled out a lot of lightweight stuff on this machine got our drw um rear discard got the sprocket guard already on our billet sprocket extended tusk axle albus steering stem rocket ron did some custom suspension on this this is a long travel rear shock with elka linkage that's supposed to be incredible i actually got to ride a banshee with that setup and it was it really was good fox floats in the front great suspension excited to try those and it's nice and light got the gpr steering stabilizer got our atv high bend bars or mostly 720 sbc bar clamps and we've got our emotional thumb throttle front billet hubs my lsr that i machined down to make them a little bit more lightweight got oem lower a arms billet lug nuts up there aluminum tie rods got a minus one swing arm i know this could be this could be the bane of this entire build with all the power that we're gonna have this thing's gonna be like wheelie machine to the max but maybe it'll be great who knows we have good suspension going on here that's really big with you know helping how these things perform and everything got tm design works chain slider i have a super lightweight carrier did some custom modifications to that myself but that came from mod quad we're pretty much ready to rock and roll man all right so now you guys have seen the parts that are going into this build we're actually ready to get into some of the custom fabrication on this thing so the engine is in place we're all torqued down i want to put the carbs in place and then we can fit our air box because that's going to be totally custom we're going to use an oem air box but the whole setup is going to be different all right so let's get these carburetors in place these are 34 millimeter mikunis they are tms all right now we'll put our air box in place if you're new to the series you might be asking yourself well why aren't you using just use pod filters you know that'd be a lot easier and it would but i really want this to be a trail machine and i've already had pod filters on the trails and it just doesn't work out so i'd like to have an air box all right now i'm going to fit up this exhaust because it could interfere with the air box these pipes are so damn big i don't even know this is going to fit man i must have got a set of pipes that was made on a monday because the fitment on these things is not so good it was a bear getting these things on they do look sweet though i will say but i mean i don't know if it's because we're taking so much and stuffing it in a small area or what but uh this pipe mount right here it just barely made it i have it's loosely on there right now so i'm gonna have to tighten that up i might have to elongate the hole here but really uh i think this was welded maybe a little bit too far forward i don't know but it does fit on there we got it on there we're we're in business now however unfortunately i don't know that we're gonna be able to run the air box okay so if you put the air box in here at first glance it seems like it's gonna work but if we put these boots in here i mean it does we could buckle it up like that it would probably work but it's really it's not really lined up right the box is crooked itself like you really have to kind of twist it to get it to work and that pulls down on these carbs and everything that's putting stress on the boots and i just i just don't like it and it's also up against the pipes so they'll probably be melting what i've decided to do is to get this build moving we're just going to run pod filters and then i'm going to have to make a custom box on my own if anyone ever tells you that they just run pod filters with outer wears and they never have any problems sucking up water uh either they're not running on messy terrain and hitting puddles and stuff or they're just lying to you because i've learned the hard way that is just not true now this is going to help a lot with the pod filters actually because it'll kel it'll help keep uh cool air surrounding those filters instead of the super hot pipes resting up against those filters and it's also going to keep the fuel a little bit cooler because the fuel lines run around there these are from cascade innovations i've also got a pipe connector i'm going to throw this grab bar on while i'm at it too because the exhaust actually mounts through the grab bar [Music] i'm gonna round these out so they don't jab you and now we should be able to slide this heat shield right up to that hose clamp in theory this is the first time i've ever worked with this stuff but apparently this is really good stuff for keeping your fuel cool and keeping cool air coming in those filters all right so the pipes are looking good they actually everything fits up pretty nice now you can see how that would keep the air nice and cool for our intake and i also i slipped our clutch line in there when you guys weren't looking because the further we get into this the more difficult it's going to be it bolts way down there in between the carburetors i had to take the one carburetor off to get to it now i did notice one thing so on this custom grab bar there's no mounts for the tail light and i would like to run that so i think i've come up with a solution so the tail light will typically mount right about here there's usually two little tabs on either side on the oem grab bar if you're wondering why this light's so small in the earlier years of the yamaha banshee they had a tinier light and then as the years went on the light got bigger this is actually a more desirable tail light but anyways since those tabs aren't there what i'm going to do is make little l brackets that go from here to here and i can use through bolts for the grab bar and that should work out pretty nicely and i'll use rubber grommets in the middle here because these are rubber which gives a little bit of shock so when you're jumping around and stuff the light won't break so if i put a rubber bushing in between there and then bolt it right at this mounting point that should work so i found something that's going to make things really convenient and easy these are actually the brackets that come with the headlights and we're not going to be utilizing those so they have a hole right here in the middle that'll fit right over that and on this side like so it should fit perfectly and really we don't have to do anything so they're made of like thin galvanized steel which is perfect lightweight it doesn't need to be very strong i'm just going to cut these off right here sand them a little bit and then throw a little bit of flat black paint on them and while we're at it we might as well freshen up this bracket as well [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] um [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] all right that's strong i'm gonna move ahead here i'm gonna put my coil in place i did take the sander and made sure that we have bare aluminum or bare steel under on the undersides of these and also on our bracket here that way we'll have a good ground i'm gonna put a little dielectric on top of our spark plugs here oh man satisfying click that looks freaking gnarly all right i think it's a good time to hang our linkage rear suspension and swing arm bump this up a little bit make it easier on ourselves i already have people asking me is it worth it to buy this elka linkage because it is expensive it's 550 bucks just for this linkage so you know i get it that is really expensive i don't know that i'm a qualified person to say whether or not it's worth it right now because i've ridden a banshee with this linkage and it was great but i'd like to actually get some of my own seat time on it before i could recommend it i'm not going to tighten any of this stuff down until the quads on the ground it's just a good idea not to tighten any of your suspension components until there's some weight on it all right let's get our swing arm assembly in place we've got a billet lightweight swing arm bolt this is from mcdaddy racing saves like a pound of weight i think it's three quarters of a pound but still definitely want to make sure you put a ton of anti-seize on this because if this thing gets seized man that's just no good especially because it's aluminum you don't want to skip this all right now hopefully this goes in fairly easy all right looks like it's it's not going to be a problem sometimes this stuff is tight man then check this bad boy out got a titanium nut going on here this will be getting locked tight but for right now i'm not going to tighten this down until again there's weight on the machine so i'm just going to spin that in place now that stainless steel bolt kit did come with stainless steel hardware for the linkage but for the linkage i do like to use the oem stuff put anti-seize on all these and even though these have lock nuts on them i still like to use just a little bit of blue loctite all right now let's get our custom raptor shock in here this will be a long travel shock for the banshee all right now the back end of this thing is getting pretty heavy so i'm going to swing around to the front end to kind of counteract that weight a little bit as we're balancing on the stand so i put the steering stem in first thing we got to do is put our new bearing and seal in place we've got this tusk kit it comes with everything you need really easy to go in place now since my frame was sandblasted it's got a little bit of roughness in there so i'm gonna go in with this little scotch-brite wheel on the dremel this will clean it right up [Music] i know we've got a sealed bearing we're going to pop in place and i've already got a socket it's a 30 millimeter it fits on there perfectly just to tap it in place these usually don't really require too much it's barely a press fit we may even be able to do it right here with the mallet the dead blow yeah it popped right it's almost bottomed out already [Music] there we go and we've got this i guess reverse nut you would call it there's a little bit of a an unthreaded portion that's going to face downward i'm going to put a little bit of an ics on here because if these things seize up it can be a pain in the ass you really don't need much and you may be asking yourself how in the hell am i going to tighten this up well you just got to take a nut that's got a 30 millimeter outside diameter i believe this is an m20 i'll put it on the screen if that's wrong and that pops in place like so we're going to use that same 30 millimeter socket and just snug this down that's good and then we'll press the upper seal in place i've already packed this seal with bearing grease and then we've got a smaller seal that goes on the underside all right now we can put our steering stem in place this is the same stem that came off just had it powder coated in texture black from bone head performance you just want to make sure that your seal is not rolled come up top to the upper steering stem clamp i've got grease in this thing definitely don't want to put this in dry that's what she said then we've got a seal that goes on the top and the bottom and you want to pack these with grease also then we've got the plate that goes on the front i got blue loctite on these there is a locking washer piece that goes on here i don't use that though i just use a little bit of loctite and then there's a special bolt that goes over here it's like a double bolt slash nut the radiator will bolt up on this side now from the bottom we got a collar you don't want to forget that and again make sure you don't roll the lip of your seal because it's easy to do i think we're okay now i'm putting red loctite on here oh [ __ ] and then a washer and this sweet ass burnt blue titanium uh nut the reason i'm using the red loctite is because this nut has very it's a it's a tall nut so you can't get to the cotter pin in there but the red loctite will be just fine feels good all right let's get these a arms and shocks in place again gotta use some anti-seize on these bolts all the stainless steel hardware and even if you're using the regular steel hardware it's still a good idea just so the [ __ ] doesn't get seized but these are actually made by caltrich they're reproduction a arms and they're super affordable like literally 80 bucks for the lower pair which i mean that's great they're they're pretty good i mean i would say the build quality i would you could tell me these are oem and i'd probably believe you and then some of the stuff was a little janky these cup seals aren't the greatest but they're going to work all right now we've got our fox float threes these things are freaking sweet they're lightweight now they didn't fit on here initially i had to do a little bit of modifications on them so in here you can see see that notch underneath the shock you can actually see the mark i um i had put on there it won't fit unless you put that notch there you can actually see the shock body sticking through so let's go ahead we're going to take that area out with a bur and then we're gonna take a ball peen hammer and just put a little bit of a belly right here so that the shock fits and we'll have no problems at all so here's what i'm using i'm not even gonna use my milwaukee this is like a you can get this dremel for 20 or 30 bucks on amazon i'll have i'll have one or a similar one linked below this is a very cheap job to do then you can pick up these burrs for it's like 10 bucks for a 10 pack of them and they take care of steel aluminum everything really well so we're gonna take this down real quick i couldn't find anything online about this i think because most people don't use the factory a-arms when they get upgraded suspension especially the fox floats i see they come with a lot of they're usually in a kit it comes with aftermarket air arms and i think they fit no problem with those but anyways here we go let's take this down [Music] all right so there's the finished product it takes about five minutes to do you don't need a machine shop or any special tools to do this stuff all the stuff you can literally pick up at walmart like i said i'll have the tools linked below and i put a little bit of an angle here to match the body of the shock so it should look nice and clean we'll throw a little bit of paint on there just to uh so we don't get any rust or anything but before we do that let's see if the shock fits in there and if we have to we'll put our little belly there so that it gets clearance all right now i'll show you guys what i mean about this shock body bottoming out basically this part hits the base so we'll fit this in here now right there it just barely makes it but that's because there's a flat spot on the bottom of the shock but as soon as you rotate it see it starts to come up it won't clear so we're going to use this ball peen hammer on the round side you can use any object really a steel object that's shaped like that and we're gonna put it right where the belly of that shock sits and we're gonna take a dead blow and that's gonna give us a nice little belly there as you can see i've left a nice little belly there now let's test fit this oh yeah you can see it drops down lower now let's throw the bolt in there make sure that it doesn't bind nice that's what you want all right so as you can see it really wasn't too difficult now we're using d-arms so we're gonna have to put these on before we put that top shock bolt on or these wouldn't fit these replace the factory j-arm so the j-arm typically is the one bar that comes around the front this is gonna be a little bit stronger plus it looks freaking sweet these came from redo banshees they have them in stock which is awesome because atv parts are not easy to come by right now they did require a little bit of a modification uh to get everything to fit right but that's kind of as i'm learning today especially just nature of the beast with aftermarket stuff but you can see now they fit on there perfectly and i did put needle bearings in here the oem yamaha arms and stuff usually use those plastic delrin bushings and they wear out pretty quickly especially with the j arm so i'm not going to recommend it just yet because i haven't tried it but the needle bearings in theory should make these last a lot longer and there should be no wiggling at all all right now we're going to put our spindle on and this is adjustable with these d arms so it's possible that we may not have this right probably what i'll do is put the hub on or with the wheels and we're gonna have to eye it up and see if we can get that about right before we tighten everything up all right let's get our tie rods on i've got these custom ones from nice cnc i guess they're not really custom because anybody can buy these but they're really affordable it was like i think 35 bucks for both of them and i think it came with tie rod ends too i mean that's a really good deal and it's lighter than the factory ones they're really thick i don't know what that is like three quarters of an inch so they're gonna be nice and strong and it's still we're saving a little bit of weight put a little bit of anti-seize on our tie rod ends because these things man they get seized on there what a pain in the ass that is these are going to go in with the tie rods facing up i'm just gonna open these up and kind of ballpark this for right now [Music] [Music] all right let's build our hubs we've got the sweet ass lsr billet hubs did a little bit of lightweight action on these uh you guys have followed the series probably what i'm talking about a little controversial there but anyways got our this is a wave rotor from tusk i believe it's called a typhoon rotor that's gonna go like so looks freaking sweet and then i've got titanium hardware here i found this kit on ebay it was like 25 of these for a pretty affordable price i forget exactly what it was but i'll have them linked in the description below they were for a ducati and they fit the yamaha perfectly and put a little bit of red loctite on all of these and then these i just zip in with the milwaukee impact i'm going to pack my seals and we're going to be using some titanium castle nuts for our spindles too man freaking lightweight [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] wow [Music] oh man it is coming together and it looks man it looks freaking sweet i love the colors that are on this thing the blue back here matches the blue up here matches the blue in the lines back there it all fits really nice i think the only thing that's a little out of place is the elka linkage and unfortunately that's only available in that color and i wasn't going to get it re-anodized so that'll be you know it's on the underside but the rest of it man i just feel like it flows really really well so i want to throw the wheels on the front before i put the brakes and everything on just to make sure that i i think we're actually on the money they look like they're straight up and down like perfectly i don't want there to be any camber i've tightened all of the castle nuts and everything put my um cotter pins and everything in there did the lower spindle nut the only one i didn't do is this top one because if we have to adjust this be able to pull that out and spin the um the top ball joint so that we can adjust the camber just a little bit so before i do that i want to put the axle in place because man the front end's starting to get heavy and i mean everything is it feels nice and tight but it's solid i just last thing i want is for this damn thing to tip over so let's go ahead put the carrier and the axle assembly together all right we're going to put our super custom lightweight bearing carrier in place and put a little bit of anti-seize in here got a good amount of weight reduction on this thing check it out i drilled all these holes here both sides i replaced the collar in the center that that spacer that's usually made of steel i replaced that with 6061 aluminum from what i read the yield strength of 6061 and mild steel is almost identical so we should have no problems with that but i'll be the guinea pig and try that out so i won't necessarily recommend that just yet but you know if i don't have any issues with this i'll probably replace every one and every carrier that i have because that actually saves a decent amount of weight so we'll go ahead and just pop this in place there we go [Music] you can see how these cam style tensioners work brings the whole system backwards or forwards to tighten or loosen up your chain all right now the sickness level is about to get out of control once we put this rear axle assembly on there there's so many trick pieces on this billet parts lightweight stuff this is a step that you definitely don't want to skip is anti-seizing all of your splines and the contact areas in the center here that go on your inner bearing race because you don't want those to get seized i wonder how much weight in anti-seize we've added to this machine so far too much i've got this drw sprocket guard and aluminum hub by boss racing and an aluminum sprocket from primary drive that came from rocky mountain atv and i am using titanium hardware on this as well this is a very light unit even with the protection on there it's way lighter than stock i don't understand why this won't go in oh son of a [ __ ] i was fiddling with that for like five minutes i didn't even notice the rotor guard was hitting this chain guide i'm gonna roll this as far forward as i can so that we don't get interference there in the future you can see how far up that comes mark where this needs to be i think what i'm going to do is just cut up here so we've got plenty of room just come straight across man this smells awful i don't know what this stuff is made of but it's tough as nails something tells me this is not gonna like the sanding disc either [Music] man whatever this material is it just really doesn't like the sawzall so luckily that sanding disc did a good job and it looks pretty clean so let's see if it fits oh yeah there we go perfect now this is an entirely aftermarket setup back here nothing here is oem we've even switched to a roundhouse style carrier from the traditional yamaha style which sucks but it looks like everything lines up well it spins nice and freely just wanna make sure that everything is good before we button this up but i think we're ready to put the axle nut on there and uh that'll be it for the rear end now my camera battery is about to die so while i'm charging you guys up in the meantime i'm going to go ahead and do the wiring because that's boring but it needs to be done and it's tedious so i'll see you guys in a couple hours all right guys it's the next day i've been hard at work or hardly working which is it i don't know but i did get a lot of stuff done i got the wire harness almost entirely on you can see back here got the cdi the rectifier got everything bound up really nice and tight here's our new well not new but our old tail light all freshly refinished that coat came out really nice and our brackets that really worked out perfectly every once in a while you get lucky and you have a piece that can turn into a bracket just right that came out really nice and clean i also evened out the exhaust pipes the mufflers because they were uneven and man that bothers the hell out of me if you guys see these alien looking things up here what the heck is that man these are fender supports they're made by mod quad they're made specifically for the banshee they're going to keep your head your fenders nice and perky i did test fit up the fenders and they look freaking awesome they got these little bumpers up here and they're they're aluminum so they weigh almost nothing but they go right on top of the if you have an oem grab bar you'll have the support under here or if you get one of these wicked metal design ones they come with the supports also but they work together with those to keep your fenders looking really good like saggy fenders nobody likes that now i've got the wire harness running all the way along here i tried to keep it as nice and tight as possible there's really no other way to run these ones other than over the filter those connect up to the engine and the stator and you can see these heat shields are going to help with all this stuff i really like that it's just going to guard against you know melting the wires i also ran the fuel lines i have them cut they're ready to rock and roll i test fit that they're good to go and that's another thing because on the other side i had the same issue with the key in carburetors the fuel line comes out right here and it can be very close to the exhaust but the heat shield makes me feel a lot better about that i actually had an issue where this fuel line melted with the old setup and i had to reroute it and everything but it's just difficult with that location so uh the heat shields are going to come in clutch there and i did run the throttle cables my clutch cable is in there so the cables are just running around the front they're ready to rock and roll now i stopped up here because i want to put the headlights on together the old headlights are actually they're looking pretty lousy so i went and got some new ones these are the old ones you can see it's yellow well the one was yellow and the other one wasn't but i want them to look like brand new so these have done a great job they still work great just a little bit yellow but we're gonna be putting these on and i figured i'd just do that with you guys before we do that though i want to make this thing a roller dude i'm just itching to see this thing on all fours and actually i want to i want to see what that seat feels like and everything and just you know enjoy the machine a little bit i got a little bit of work to do here we have to put the disc guard on from drw performance now they're made for this aftermarket setup but aftermarket setups are always going to be a little bit different so there's usually a little bit of modification that you have to do i have the same system on my 250r and it works great but basically this piece comes up from underneath and then this brace goes over top now we're going to have a problem on our setup is this gusset right here so when this goes in place like so you can see it's holding it up so that's not a problem like i said these are it's fairly universal it just needs to be modified to fit to your setup because i mean there's tons of different swing arms and stuff you can run this is an aftermarket from the swingarm shop so it's easy enough to do we're just going to trim this thing up and we'll make it fit perfect so i'm going to try to compensate for the welds as well and i want to make it so that we have a good amount of room you can take a lot out of this material and it'll still be strong the one on the 250r i really ended up removing a lot of material and i've never had an issue with it and i've had that thing down some seriously rocky trails okay so here's the area that i marked off we're going to start small and then you know we can always take more off but we can't add material back on so i want to see where it sits with this material off and then on the back side there was a small portion that i noticed we could we could shave out to make it fit a little bit better now this stuff is made of uhmw and it is super impact resistant and very slip resistant or it's slippery so like it'll glide over rocks and stuff really well it takes impacts really well i've used this on a couple bikes now and it really it is super durable so working with this stuff can be a pain in the ass however i found out that these aluminum burrs eat it up really quickly and it makes it really easy to work with so that's what we're going to be using i'll have these linked in the description below [Music] let's see how we made out oh yeah see now that fits right in place man and that is beautiful now there's one other thing i want to check i'm going to throw some bolts in here just loosely to make sure we have this lined up and when you roll the carrier that that stay moves so i want to make sure that we have we're going to be able to adjust it and we're not gonna have any interference that's that's pretty much all the way forward all the way back i think we're good there oh i just noticed another small interference issue if you look down there that little stay is rubbing up against the guard so that'll be an easy fix as well [Music] we're moving up to an upgraded dual piston rear brake this is from zoom zoom performance it's actually designed for a yamaha warrior but it will work on a banshee as well as i've already test fit it so now we just need to make sure that the guard will work with it so let's see how this fits up right let's keep moving with the rear brake system got a brand new master cylinder here man this to me is like a no-brainer this was 15 bucks from rocky mountain atv a brand new aftermarket and if you look at the old one i mean honestly they look almost identical i don't know if maybe this is another aftermarket one from back in the day or not it looks like it has a yamaha part number on it well i don't think i think this is the oem one but man this thing literally looks almost exactly the same the only thing it doesn't come with is the reservoir but for 15 bucks man it's a no-brainer it's not even worth rebuilding the old one i did put a little bit of blue loctite on these pretty much all the brake components usually i put loctite on them all right i'm going to put our brake lever on in just a second here i'm going to put some grease on this because this is a moving part don't want to skip this then here's our custom brake pedal this is that one we shaved down added some more adjustment holes this should be really nice now is the time to get it on because i think you have to take the foot peg off in order to get to it all right now we got this custom fuel line well it's actually just a universal but it should fit perfect i measured it up against the old one and i actually subtracted an inch because we're running a shorter swing arm all right now i think i'm going to run it in this orientation this way there's plenty once we have this button down there's plenty of room here for this to move when the swing arm goes up and down shouldn't have any interference or anything and now this looks like it could be pretty unruly just sitting it like that we could zip tie it but i found these trick little loops that are they're universal kind of like swing arm loops for brake lines so we're gonna take i got two of them honestly we could probably get away with one but since we have the two of them i'm going to run them probably like here and here and that'll help keep things in line plus it looks really sweet [Music] [Music] all right we're almost ready to get this thing on the ground we're gonna throw our back bullet hubs on these are by boss racing really trick super lightweight and they're locking hubs you can see it's got a slit right there and a bolt right here to tighten it down now there are spacers that go on here if you want to widen it out but we're going super narrow for this first time around so i'm gonna line this up drop it in place now most axles come with steel spacers that go on here i found these in aluminum they're the exact size they're for harley-davidson they're actually they are wheel spacers they're just made for a harley and they're about a third of the weight of the other ones so we'll throw them on there spin our axle nut in place now normally i would redlock tight these but i'm not tightening them down right now so i'm just going to leave them in place i will however snug up our bolt back here i try to line these up so that they're on the same spline on both sides [Music] man this is one ultra compact machine almost to like a goofy looking level i have not quite imagined that it would be this narrow at the front end it just looks it looks kind of goofy i'm not gonna lie uh you gotta remember we're gonna be getting plus ones on this so the front end will be two inches wider and i think that will balance it out quite a bit you can see uh we gotta pull those upper ball joints in just slightly we'll get those things perfect looks like both sides are about the same that was really the main reason i put this thing down here and also now with the weight on the machine we can tighten up all the suspension components so that i don't forget because i have done stuff like that before from the side it looks badass the the back end is probably i'm going to say it's a good bit wider i'm not even sure exactly how much but it doesn't look quite right looks a little odd so this is kind of janky but until we get the at the um the plus one a arms i might actually invert the rear wheels because that will bring them in just slightly if it looks really weird i'm putting it back i don't want it to look weird we'll see what it looks like you know we're we're doing trial and trial and error i guess so i'm going to tighten this stuff up and then i think what i want to do is the controls so that it's a little bit easier to push around while i'm tightening all the bolts since we have it off the stand right now i'm going to go ahead and put the torsion bars in place before i forget all right we got our work cut out for us first thing i want to do is spin the rear tires around i just want to see what that looks like hopefully it doesn't look too goofy this is just not what i expected wow what a difference yeah believe it or not that actually looks better it's more the atv is more square all right i actually feel a lot better about this now i think that looks much better now that everything is square i like that look i don't like it when you have a really wide rear end or a really wide front end it's got to be square it or just it looks off so even though we're a little bit more narrow i think that's going to be really fun and nimble and we've got the extended axle so that you know in the future when we do extend it out we're good to go let's measure this 44 and a half inches so this is actually this is still wider than a stock banshee a stock banshee is 43.3 inches this is just over 44 and a half all right i took care of the upper ball joint now we are officially 100 tight in the front end except for the shock i just realized i did not tighten these bolts anyways i wanted to show you guys the brakes this is kind of boring because i mean nobody really wants to put brakes on a machine but when we do the next top quad i'm going to give everybody a huge head start i'm going to be catching up to them so quick i don't want to run into them so we have to put brakes on there anyways i'm going to be upgrading the brakes that's why i really wanted to point this out these are yfc 450 shocks first gen i believe 04 206 is the same style or 06 to 09 i think i don't know but their yfc 450 brakes i'll have these linked in the description below these exact ones and they're a direct match up these are oem spindles and they bolt right up to it so it should be a really nice upgrade very easy upgrade and it'll be significant difference so we have a dual piston as opposed to the single piston front and rear so we're literally doubling our braking power power on this machine these are really affordable too they're like 45 bucks for both and i've used these reproduction brakes before and i've never had a problem with them so i'm confident in using them the only thing that won't fit is the disc guard if you're going to run that and you do want to lock tight these bolts and then same as in the back i'm going to be putting these green brake lines on i'm just going to put them in place for now because we're going to have to root them differently i'm sure once everything's on there all right we're almost finished with the front end here let's put on our gpr stabilizer this thing looks freaking menacing with all these holes in it i'm going to kind of leave it loose like that right now i did put a little bit of blue loctite on both of these bolts all right once you've got the actual stabler tightened down i believe then you want to make both of these arms 90 degrees so you have kind of like a tie rod adjustment here so right there is about 90 degrees so we want to stretch this out a little bit so the last thing we have to do is tighten down this clamp on the steering stem i'm going to wait until our controls are in place and everything because i want to make sure that the whole assembly is nice and straight before we clamp that down so i'm going to go ahead put the radiator in you can see i put the brake lines and stuff in i want to do all that stuff beforehand so that it's just a pain in the ass when the radiators in the way got a brand new radiator going in nothing wrong with the old one i just felt had to put a new one in place because everything else on this build is going to be looking fresh now i want to put my inline coolant temperature gauge in place so what i like to do is try to find a spot where it's going to be easily viewable so i think i found a spot right here if you guys come in closer i'll show you exactly the spot so it's got to be on the upper coolant line if you do it on the lower coolant line it's not going to be as accurate because the hot coolant comes out of the top it comes from the bottom of the engine rises up and then out the top so that's where your most accurate reading is going to be i actually had it in the wrong spot when i took this off so i don't know if i just was unaware of the coolant flow or what but i'd like to put it right here that'll be a really accurate spot right out of the head and angle it to the side just like this because right through here if you lean to the side of the bike you can look right through that spot and it should be easily viewable oh man you can see how close we're getting to this stabilizer mount that's why i didn't want to tighten this down just yet i think we'll be okay though you can see that the connecting rod is kind of on an angle i think it would still work that way because of the type of joints that they use on here but i think it'll be better if i flip this and put it on the underside we've got enough clearance under there and then it'll be a straight shot a lot of stuff on this quad is taking a really long time this is a quick video for you guys but almost nothing is fitting out of the box like that stabilizer is literally the least of my issues just everything on this machine is it's tedious and the reason i'm saying this is because if you guys are doing you know a project of your own and you're like man why is it so easy for mike why does how come everything he does goes so quick it doesn't dude all this stuff takes time like these clamps back here believe it or not that took like an hour and a half i had issues i drilled the holes just a little bit off and i couldn't get it to fit just right and man it was just a pain in the ass and then finding these rubber grommets to fit in here i ended up clipping them off of actually an old 250r line to find ones that were nice and snug in there that would hold it and just to make sure everything is is good and straight and you know everything fits right it's just it takes it's time consuming man it's tedious so take your time if you get frustrated go and get a snack man or to get some rest because that's that's when you start making mistakes now speaking of custom things i want to put the front bumper on that's an easy thing it's good to do an easy thing let's hope that came off of the quad though so you know hopefully that one goes on but this rear reservoir for the back shock man we have like a three foot long lead here so i have i have an idea of where to put that that's gonna be that's gonna be our next custom thing though so let's get the bumper on and then we'll do that finally something that goes on easy just waiting for a stripped bolt or cross threads or something no issues i think i'm gonna cry that really is i'd say hands down one of the best bumpers ever designed it looks good on every machine put our flip pegs in place real quick i really do love this stand it just makes life so much easier all right so here is our dilemma we have this incredibly long lead on our rear shock reservoir so i'd like to do this in as clean of a way as possible i had ron put an extra long lead on here because i really had no idea what we were going to be dealing with with the air box and stuff and i didn't want to have one that was too short uh but really like if you get an elka it's a really short one and it mounts up under here i don't know if that would interfere with the air box or not uh regardless this is what we're working with so i've come up with the idea of mounting it back here because it will be out of the way the wire won't look unsightly or anything we can tuck this up under here and i did come up with an idea for how to mount this here i think we can do it with existing holes i'm going to utilize this hole right here and take this bracket that came with that mount and bolt it through that hole like so put the mount on the end there and that should enable us to mount it just like this that won't interfere with the seat latch or anything i don't think and it's adjustable because we've got this kind of set up here i'll be able to adjust this in or out to get it where i want to sit the only thing i may have to do is because if you see the silver underneath that's the bottom of the rectifier but i can just put spacers under the rectifier i actually have nice aluminum blocks that just kind of um what are those called standoffs make it drop it down like i don't know a quarter of an inch just so that there's room for the bolt head in there i think it'll work so i'm gonna try it out all right let's get the rectifier out of the way might as well use some titanium [Music] bling then for the rectifier got these little standoffs i'll use made of delrin that should hold up just fine [Music] well that turned out to be a lot easier than i thought it would be you can see how i have the cable run should have no problems with that and we have all that open space in the middle so when we do finally get our airbox in there this setup should still work ideally this would be flipped with this portion you know with the adjustments facing downward because then you could come right up underneath and adjust it without taking the plastics off or anything however it's like going against the natural um i guess like memory of this line i tried flipping it and the the coil it just was fighting it so bad so for now i'm gonna leave it like this but honestly man i'm happy with it all right man i think it's about time we put our controls in place so we're gonna put the spc 720 bar clamps on now i have my hour meter up here this is where i ran it last time and i wasn't really considering that it may not work with the hermosi however i think it will fit i put the aluminum bushings in place just up top for right now and i've got little washers on the back of my plate here because that's going to space this out just like literally one millimeter and when i do that there's actually enough room the only thing is i can't adjust this in the forward position because there's actually two holes here you can adjust it i guess like a quarter of an inch forward but for now i'm gonna run it like this because that fits we'll leave those washers under there and uh we'll just see how it feels we can always move this stuff around it's always subject to change i think it'll be easier to assemble all of this and then put it in place and ermosi was kind enough to send me all titanium hardware lightweight which is fitting for the voodoo banshee put the lower bushings in place these actually might be a little bit long this hardware because i know before i had an issue with these dragging on the tank guard when you would turn the the steering stem it would hit bot down here now luckily i actually have a couple extra titanium bolts that are a little bit shorter i could cut these but i think these are like the perfect length these are the same ones that i got for the rear carrier they came with they could only come in a four pack so i have two extra ones so instead of cutting these ones down i think i'm just gonna swap these out yup that that's probably gonna be perfect saved i'm gonna put a washer and these ultra low profile nuts they're actually from the suspension man could that have worked out any better i can't believe that with a little space in the middle so you can see the hour meter and when i tightened it down now there's no gap in between so this actually i lost the last hour meter so hopefully i mean this way if that thing falls off now i don't know man all right now these bars are subject to change too they're atv high bend and these are mostly clamps raise up about an inch taller than my previous setup so it's possible that it could be a little bit too high but we can always play with that later let's get this in place put our rubber bushings onto the bars put the bushings into the lower clamps now put the upper clamps in place just thread in some hardware this is titanium also thank you armosie they knew that the voodoo banshee had to be super light i'm not tightening these down just yet and we'll put the lower inner clamp in the one with the threads goes on the underside then our upper clamps upper inner and before i go any further i want to center up the bars now this is a tool that comes with the bar clamps this is going to make sure that the rubber bushings are far enough in they're in the right spot oh it actually has little openings check that out it has these openings right in the tool so you can center up your bars with the tool in place how about that pretty cool and i'm going to tighten these to 18 foot pounds and now we can take the tool out and we are installed all right now i have to do this i have to it's it's just there's no options here i have to see what this thing feels like oh no got to be kidding me so close but so far we have interference with the seat latch the handle for the seat latch comes back really far and it's hitting our trick new reservoir location i thought i had earned sitting on the quad but i guess not luckily though i don't think it's going to be that difficult to fix i think we just need to lower this mount many many minutes later all right reservoir holder v2 has been released it's a hell of a lot better than the first one check it out took me about 30 minutes and i have a couple fixes here you'll notice this has been reversed i discovered that this actually spins in here it's tight but it does spin so now there's easy access to adjust that rear shock reservoir no problem and all this still fits nice and there's no no tightness on the wires or anything the only thing i don't like a hundred percent is how close this is to the exhaust because you want to keep the fluids in the suspension nice and cool but there's a solid i would say a good inch there that's that's should be good enough we should be safe but we're way up and out of there you can't even really see it back there it looks good and the best part is the best part is check this out the seat fits without interference thank god this is nice i have to say very impressed with the firmness of the seat i you know squishing it with my hands i wasn't so sure i thought maybe they were just like yeah we'll give you a firm compound and just whipped it up but it is significantly more stiff than the oem seat i like it all right let's get our grips on use the good old spray paint method put our mostly thumb throttle in place [Music] these things are freaking sweet dude this throttle actually has sealed bearings in it so you have to grease it up [Music] and then this thumb portion is entirely adjustable too you can boat you can put it up or down and you can also go you can place it anywhere you want we'll just lock it up with our set screws nice [Music] this is a yfc 450r master cylinder completely rebuilt put a new sight glass in it and everything now i have a dual banjo bolt coming for this but it's coming in the mail so for now i'm just going to put it in place with a regular bolt and the oldest looking thing on this entire machine the original switches from 1990 and our clutch lever [Music] man those green lines look freaking wicked definitely screams voodoo banshee i'm really happy with the way this is turning out i'm not sure how i feel about these levers the brake lever feels pretty good but the clutch lever i'm not the biggest fan i just don't like the way i don't like the adjustment up here it's like maxed out and i feel like that's like that the normal range and i don't it hits up here which i get it i mean that's like it's like just like a thing with levers but the asv ones usually clear it the one that came off cleared it that was an asv i just i'm not sure how i feel about it the feel is good i don't really like how this cover covers so far and if i tr i could trim it but that would cut the logo in half so it's going to look tacky so it almost looks like they put the wrong guard on here so i don't know man for 160 bucks i'm not sure that i would recommend the streamlined levers i think i'd go with asv over these but regardless they're still trick i like it all right i'm about ready to fire this thing up so i'm gonna mix up our two-stroke mix i'm going to be running dominator at 32-1 for the first go-around and we're going to be using pump gas transmission oil i'll be running amsoil 10850 dirt bike oil been running this stuff in the 250r and in the grape ape my yz125 and i really like it it seems to work really well all right man it is time i am ready these past two months have felt like two years i want to stop to take a moment to thank all the companies that are helping to make project voodoo banshee possible thank you to rocky mountain atv mc bp racing atv kenda tire drw performance hermosi throttles rocket ron suspension own head performance coatings mod quad dave moore racing ap3 racing shelves innovations and wicked metal designs these are all companies that i trust and most of them i use on a regular basis all products and tools in this video will be linked in the description below if you're interested in these products and you're looking for a way to support the channel using these links does help me out and there's no added cost to you if you're enjoying the video so far please remember to hit that like button and leave a comment below and consider subscribing and if you're looking to support the channel even further there is the option to join all channel members get guaranteed responses to their youtube comments all right let's get back to the video all right man here we go first start on the voodoo banshee running pump gas i've got the timing set to plus four degrees we're running 22 cc domes so these are pump gas domes i'm going to be switching that the reason that i'm running these is because i want to get actual seat of the pants feel for difference when you start upping the compression and running different fuels it should be pretty peaky and uh i don't know we'll just have to see but most importantly let's see if it starts slightly nervous prime it compression feels good the carbs i synced up by eye i have no filters on there right now [Music] okay [Applause] let's double check everything plugs are on kill switch on [Music] spark fuel and compression it should start try it with the choke oh there we go [Music] it actually seems like it's going to idle there's no coolant in here so we can't run it for long it sounds really good though [Music] cool man all right let's ice her up put our engine ice in here not the easiest start took quite a few kicks but sometimes that happens on a first start it sounds like it's running really good though this way we'll be able to get some heat cycles now we got some coolant in there make sure we don't have any leaks some people were concerned they thought i was going to forget the little drain bolt on our easy drain but i did get a low profile i just wanted to make sure it wasn't leaking but it looks like we're good i love it this is what i live for not really warm yet i evened out the carbs a little bit more they were slightly off dude we have to ride this we have to all right we're trying a new helmet set up here i got the new gopro hero 10 with medium odds and my mic is hooked up hoping that you guys can hear me because i uh this will be the first run it's it's on the smoky side that's that 30 to one or uh thirty two to one i forget i'm loving what is vibrating i don't know if that's just going to be the nature of the beast with this thing not exactly sure we'll have to check that out but we should be okay for a little cruise hopefully this lever is pulling in far enough that we don't have any clutch grab we'll find out in a second here i have no front brakes but we do have a little bit of rear brake so this is just the cruise around make sure i guess we're good man this thing is so small all right we got all our gears um it sounds really good though wow dude this thing pulls oh man i can tell i'm gonna love this thing at first i was a little questionable about how tight this thing is but yeah i just feel like it's gonna hit it really it turns so tight dude this thing is gonna be a blast holy [ __ ] dude i don't know if it's because of the swing arm just making it feel that much faster but it sure feels every bit as fast as the 421 the whole idea of a fun trail machine this is it dude this is a fun play machine just just doing this i got a huge smile on my face right now man oh it just sounds so good jetting sounds good i would love to be able to take this to the trails right this moment dude does that not sound premium oh my god thumbs up on the sound this cpis sounds so good wow it's a little nerve-wracking not having front brakes that's for sure and then she settles down sounds really good too dude i'm really happy with that oh no maybe that's why it was vibrating that'll do it that will do it what a success man what a success wow is that fun dude i just can't stress how much how the excitement is just through the roof to actually get this thing on the trails this is why you have to do these little testing things though because certainly that could have been an issue i probably the pipe would have just fallen off eventually that's okay though like i said that's why we do these test runs and i'll have to take it to the trails and baby it a little bit too just to make sure because that's what happens you know there's like 500 bolts you have to tighten down it's easy to forget just one and sometimes it's an important one like a swing arm bolt or something or a lug nut i've actually done that just axle nuts got to make sure all that stuff is tight man this is awesome uh there's two things that i want to address right now a couple things i don't like one is i really really do not like this design that streamline uses for adjusting you know how far you want this uh your your reach to be on this lever so i'm going to improve the design i already came up with an idea basically i'm going to cut that off and i'm going to run a set screw diagonally so i'm going to take care of that and then i found an issue with my wire harness um i rewired this thing entirely the first time around and i must have done something wacky because i'm not getting power to one of the high beams so something isn't right and i don't think that there should be double wires on this side either so i'm going to tear that down just you know fix up my wire harness and then i'll meet you guys back here i'm going to show you guys how to wire up the led headlights because i actually made a video on that years ago and i'd like to just kind of go over that all right i don't know what i was thinking with the wire harness i have no idea what i was doing but it's fixed now all wired up nicely i had to do a ton of stuff to it but anyways let me show you guys how i do these lights all right so what we're going to be doing is converting to these led work lights they're four inch lights they come in many different variations this is probably the most common one right here this style this is what i just took off so i ran these these worked fine in my old tutorial video there were a number of people that said that these burn out i don't know what the deal is with that i never had an issue with mine maybe it depends on what kind of state you're you're running or i don't know these are also you know they vary in quality they're very cheap these were like twenty dollars i think these were like thirty dollars so they're extremely cheap lights that's for two of them so you know with cheap stuff like that quality it's just not going to be consistent so these ones i chose because not only are the leds supposedly supposed to be brighter but also there's a blue halo on these which is going to be freaking sweet so these are only a two wire there's no high or low beam and these are not higher low beam either but what i'm going to do is i'm going to set them up so that the low beam is just the blue halo and the high beam is the actual led light now in every case i've seen the brackets are just slightly a little too wide for stock so you can see i have a little i took a pencil and just marked where we need to cut down to all right the bench is getting crazy messy man messy messy bench messy mind right i should probably straighten up all right so i'm going to put this in the vise not going to squeeze down tight because i could destroy this thing the rock guard on the front is plastic it's really not that strong but you just want it being held nice and firm so it doesn't fly away that would be bad i'm going to be using a flapper disc i recommend putting a newer disc on because it kind of gives you a more square edge and a cleaner cut very cheap tool this is a drill master i believe this came from harbor freight it was probably like 20 bucks and they have the discs there too so really cheap tools considering the price of the light and stuff you could do this whole thing for under like 50 bucks probably you want to try to keep it nice and flat and square don't go crazy with this now if you don't have a grinder you could actually do the whole thing with a file it's just going to be time consuming i'm just using this to straighten it up now we'll flip this over get the other side now i'm going to clean up these i'm going to use an aluminum bur you don't have to use a burr again just like the flapper disc you could actually use a file and take care of this this is just going to speed up the process and then you can finish it off with the file if you want [Music] all right let's see how this fits now there's actually i went a little bit too far we've got a little bit of a gap in there now i did that on purpose so that i could show you what to do if you do go too far it's still fixable actually i totally messed up but it is really easy to fix just use washers all right now we're going to wire these things up now depending on what you have going on with your harness you probably have a different connector i put this connector on here myself these are called deutsch connectors i like these because they're waterproof you can see the rubber seal in here they're just really good connectors but you can use any connectors that you want or you can even just splice the wires together or use butt connectors whatever you want to use it's up to you anyways if you want to wire them up the same way as me your green is your low beam yellow is your high beam and black is your ground and i want to do it so that the low beam is the blue halo so i have it set this way with the white that is your halo wire that's going to go to the green and then over here black and black is the ground and then red that is your led main light that's going to go to yellow that will be your high beam all right now like i said you can use any connectors you want and these are actually kind of expensive connectors so while i do like them and i recommend them i do understand that not everybody has access to these tools and everything because they they take a special tool but anyways i'll show you regardless and you can do them any way that you want so we're going to cut these wires down about a half an inch i'm going to fold these over like so and these are our pins if you want all of the wire to be just about entirely ex um covered you don't want anything exposed put that on there like that then this is the crimping tool it's pretty trick crimps it on all four sides it's really tight really good connection then these just pop right through the back and you would want to orient these correctly with your high beams low beams and ground snaps in place and then there's this retainer this keeps the pins aligned when it's getting plugged in that clips into place and then this connector is good to go last thing i like to do is just take a little bit of dielectric and put it on our contact surface that helps with connection and with sealing this from water all right now we'll throw this in place i've got a washer on both sides to make up for that gap you could probably just tighten this up and squeeze the bracket together and it would work but this is probably the right way to do it let me plug into our harness and we're good to go all right check this out it's better worker i'm going to be pissed it's getting late so can't rev the engine or anything but fire this up see what it looks like this better look cool now what what's going on here what is going on here loose wire [Applause] thank the lord oh yeah dude worth the wait that looks freaking gnarly dude that's awesome it's cool that they're not flickering that much the um the leds will probably flicker because they take a little bit more power but especially at idle they're usually kind of dim oh dude that looks really cool oh yeah nice and bright you see they flicker i would rev it up they stay more consistent but because it's so late i'm not going to really bright pretty cool all right those are actually pretty sweet so i'm gonna pop those off and paint the little imperfections from grinding away oh and our lever project got put on hold because i broke a tap so i have to run to the hardware store tomorrow and grab a new tap so i can finish that up so all the paints drying on the lights we'll go ahead put the plastics on do the graphics and we just have our nerf bars heel guards the skid plate and then it's voodoo time all right we've got a little bit of work to do with the plastics we've got to remove our warning labels which are riveted on and we might have to cut the fronts to make space for these cpi's well sure enough we have a little bit of a clearance issue here you can see if you come down the hole's about i don't know maybe about an inch away and we're hitting the pipe so it's really easy to do just going to measure the distance between the two holes and we're going to take that much off of there plus a half of an inch so it's got a little bit of breathing room and i'm unsure if i want to cut just a big circle to match the pipe or if i want to do like i did last time and come over and down on the whole thing so it looks like it's factory unclear i have a pretty good eye for this stuff so i usually kind of just eye it up so it is about an inch so i'm going to come an inch and a half over that's about where it would be cut if we actually form it to the pipe i don't know though it might look kind of goofy executive decision we're just going to cut them all the way down because otherwise i think it's going to look too jank all right we're going to cut the plastics with this little dremel cut off wheel it's a real thin one these things are awesome for cutting plastics you can get them i think you get them at walmart i don't know i got them on amazon but they're cheap and they work really well just makes your life a lot easier you just can't turn with them because sometimes the uh the blade will snap so you just have to kind of go notchy and then afterwards we'll go in and we'll round it out [Music] i'm going to use this sanding drum to round it out and clean it up also you can get these on amazon and then on the opposite side just got this little bit of remnants you can kind of fold that back and forth and then it kind of just peels and scratches away with your thumbnail and then look at that dude that's like it looks like a brand new factory oem cut all right let's see what we got oh yeah plenty of room now nice and clean the last thing i'm going to change about the plastics is get rid of these warning labels so i'll just drill the eighth inch rivets out you don't want to press when you drill these because that can make them spin sometimes they still do but they're less likely to spin if you just kind of let the drill do the cutting oh this one's spinning like right off the bat [Music] there we go you can see they want to spin pain in the ass these are actually glued in place so let's see if using the heat gun helps it come off a little bit easier i already got the one on the back that says no you can't have two riders on there maximum vehicle load 220 pounds that's like already about to break that but yeah you got to um you got to heat these things up and this should help out my god and then we've got these front ones these ones are on like placards i'm not sure if those are glued on or not it's the first time i'm dealing with them about to find out oh man that makes it really easy you can see they're raised up i actually thought that these were a part of the plastics originally and i was like dude you'll never be able to put graphics over top of that but that's actually pretty nice 372.42 if anybody wants them and if you give me my asking price i'll throw in the rivets put our carbon tank cover on from banshee taco oh yeah carbon fiber 22 horsepower that does look sweet though [Applause] [Music] man just when i thought it was over it wasn't the radiator cover would not fit over this radiator i remember with the old setup as well you really had to stuff it on there to make it fit so it the top of the radiator just wasn't going far back enough so this bolt up here that goes through has the threads on the back side also so i chop this down about a quarter of an inch so that the radiator will sit back a quarter of an inch and uh now [Music] now hopefully we will be good it is 3 a.m right now friday [Music] but i want to finish this [Applause] [Music] [Applause] oh thank god it fits [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] so [Music] so ah [Music] [Music] so okay um so man this thing really came out nice and i did finish my lever mod up here see how that has a lot more clearance i like that a lot better so we'll see if the basin is dry we'll take her down there and give her a launch or two oh please be dry all right i don't know that i'm ready to get her all muddy just yet but we'll give her a launch or two i feel like this is an obligation it just wouldn't be right not to do this should we jump right to second gear why not yeah dude i was not expecting that man it it hooks it definitely hooks i think that short swing arm not just because it's short but uh you're right but your weight is right on top of it too let's give it another one oh man oh this thing is gonna be a blast oh it's muddy [Music] man this thing is a handful it's gonna take some getting used to oh man this thing is a blast once it gets in that power band it's got like excessive power unfortunately we gotta wrap it up though because people don't really appreciate this kind of thing in this area so we gotta be respectful and we'll pack her up first bath already in the books all right let's do this all right we're gonna do this the same way that we did the first time around with the bathroom scales the first time around we were 404 pounds with a weight bias of 52 in the front and 48 in the back i'm gonna guess 386 pounds 386. what if it was heavier i'd be so disappointed 89 on the dot 113.8 that's weird why is it so heavy on this side 113.8 103.5 75.3 i wonder if the garage has like a slight tilt to it or something because remember last time the left side was heavier too i'm liking that 75 pounds in the right rear though all right let's do the math here the front is 89 plus 113.8 202.8 and the rear is one 178.8 381.6 so overall that's good 381.6 i think i'm just a little confused because the front end is still really heavy so i'm actually really happy with the weight loss we lost 22.6 pounds that's more than what i expected i think i'm just confused because i feel like we took so much weight off of the front end and it's still almost the same these are the original weights it was originally 207.8 in the front with a 52 bias now it's 202.8 with a 53 buy so we actually we created a worse front end bias here so you know i have to take into consideration that the scales are not 100 accurate however i would say we probably really did lose a little over 20 pounds it's definitely realistic i can feel it in picking up the atv and moving it around and the rear end is definitely noticeably lighter so this may be more accurate than we think the one thing that is different though is the amount of gas in there when we did the first weight around there was literally almost no gas in the machine and now there's i'm gonna say a quarter tank of gas that probably weighs like five pounds so if you consider that we know we probably lost like over 25 pounds and the tank is like kind of towards the front of the machine so maybe that's why if we dropped five more pounds in the front it would even out the bias a little bit better so we'll just go with that so the voodoo banshee is complete man we lost over 20 pounds i'm going to say that we really lost i'm going to say close to 25 pounds i really do think there's a difference in fluids here and i would say realistically i'd say it probably would be in like the 375 range if everything was exactly the same as when fluid wise when we tore the machine down and uh the nerf bars are wet too from washing it that is a thing anyways i'm super excited to dive into this thing there's a few more mods that i want to do to it the project is definitely i would call complete but i'd like to do things like i want to shave the seat down and lower that a little bit that's something i've never done before i also want to switch out the domes the domes that are in there currently are the gas the pump gas domes and i didn't even plan to use those but i thought it'd be cool to get a seat of the fan seat of the pants feel so when people ask me about you know what domes are on if i really recommend it and stuff you know i can say like yeah honestly you will get more torque if you put in the higher compression domes which is what i expect to happen i plan to take this to the trails we'll do an ass dyno of course and you know there's something about this project that i've just discovered recently is that this is serval ported this whole time i thought we had cub ported cylinders so these are actually the porting in this top end is actually designed for more low end and mid-range power which you know technically speaking that would be more desirable for a trail and play banshee i really wanted the peaky power but hey man i really love the way this thing performs but i wanted to let you guys know that this is serval ported and if you do go ahead and get those cub cylinders i already recommend them even with the pump gas domes i would say it's significantly more powerful than stock so if you do want to pick those up they're made by cpi and they're available only through bp racing you can find them on bpratv.com use my promo code for 10 off it's sabo 10. now you may be wondering what this black youtube box is right here well this has been sitting inside on my desk since january this came in the mail about a week after i hit 100 000 subscribers and i think it's uh my award for meeting that and you have no idea how bad i've wanted to open this thing i've worked for five years to earn this but i didn't feel that it was right to open it without you guys and i really i it was tough man but i really just wanted to open it on camera with you guys i have to look at this thing every single day on my desk and i've just wanted to open it so bad this better be cool oh wow wow that is really nice it's actually made of metal too i don't think the whole thing is but like the the surface is definitely metal it's it's heavy do you remember your first subscriber your 100th or your 1000th subscriber chances are you do we know that you'll definitely remember your 100th 100 000th subscriber wow they've got a nice little letter here i'm not going to read the whole thing the reason that i wanted to open this in this video though is because we surpassed the 100 000 subscriber mark when i first started this project and you know i've been working really hard for like five years to kind of like make these this um dream of becoming a like an actual youtuber a reality and you know while companies and sponsors help out and everything i can't do this with without each and every one of you so i actually have 100k right on the graphics because you know you guys you're my number one sponsor and um i don't know i just couldn't do without you guys you know a lot of hard work has gone into this channel there's a lot of stuff that you know people don't see on screen but i get dms literally multiple dm's a day of people you know cheering me on and pushing me forth and stuff and it wasn't if it wasn't for those messages and comments and stuff i i probably would have given up along the way youtube is not exactly the most uh lucrative career especially not in the beginning but it can develop into something awesome and i really i just couldn't have been i couldn't have made it this far without you guys and i i think it's just so cool that you know this machine is a as an example of how far i've come personally in my you know my wrenching abilities and building abilities and you guys have been been with me the whole way man with the first time around building this banshee is what started the youtube channel and uh for those of you that have followed uh since then you know you can see how much i've progressed i mean i used to do some stuff that i'd be shaking my head at right now looking back at the stuff i used to do back then but the whole idea is uh you know to share all these experiences with you guys and i'm always saying you know you can watch me suffer and you know break my hands and all that stuff and and screw up and then get it right and then you guys don't have to go through all that that stuff and it's it's awesome to see your guys projects i get a lot of dms of people sending in their projects and things they've built and stuff and uh it's just it's awesome to grow as a community and hopefully you know make the the building community in general not just atvs but dirt bikes side by sides cars everything it's nice for just to just have like a positive area for everybody to grow and you know we try to do stuff right and make some fast machines and all just have a really good time so i hope you guys enjoyed the voodoo banshee series uh this this one is for you guys if you if you ever see me out on the trails or whatever stop me come check out the quad if i'm ever an event or anything i appreciate everybody watching if you haven't seen the beginning of the series i definitely recommend going back and seeing the details of what went into especially the engine but just the engineering of this machine in general it is definitely a lightweight feeling much lighter weight anyways than it was more nimble uh everything feels nice and tight it's just a better machine than it was before a much better setup we're gonna have a lot of fun with this machine so if you enjoyed this video and you want to see more comment like this please consider giving it a thumbs up that helps me out a lot also consider leaving a comment in the comment section below that's another thing that helps me out tremendously and don't forget to subscribe i will see you guys in the next video if you're looking to support the channel even further there is the option to join i'll see you guys in the next one peace out [Music] you guys still there i wanted to reward the people that stayed all the way to the very end so check this out that's some voodoo magic for you right there baby now we're in voodoo mode gotta say i'm pretty proud of that one i've been working on some magic tricks and you know don't worry though i can put it back got the old plastics right there these are those chinese plastics that just just wouldn't fit man and even with cutting these off it was still really difficult to get them on there and you know by the way guys i completely stand by my original assessment of these things as far as fitment goes man they suck it's i highly do not recommend but at least we got some nice drag plastics out of it by the way if you're wondering what you save if you cut your plastics 2.574 pounds and these will be for sale for 600 bucks uh just trying to get my money out of them that's what i paid for them so this is the way i have it set up for the dunes not for full-blown drag racing mode but just to be a duner i think we've got quite a bit of weight off for one the wheels are a huge thing got the clunky heel guards off the nerf bars we took off and i didn't take the skid plate or the rear skids off or the stabilizer but i have the weights of all that stuff recorded so we can subtract that i want to throw this on the scale and see what it weighs in voodoo mode you know i was thinking about it and we probably picked up some weight in the front end with those dual brake calipers so if we really wanted to get crazy and do drag racing weight we could actually take the front brakes off entirely it's crazy how much weight you save with just changing your wheels and tires are you ready for this in the current condition that it is right now it weighs 344.9 if we subtract the skid plates and the stabilizer that's 10.9 pounds that brings it down to 334 on the dot from the original weight of 404.2 we saved 70.2 pounds that is crazy dude 70 pounds man that is crazy and to make it even more wild the plus one j arms that i'm having made for this are supposed to be i'm gonna guess about two pounds lighter per side so that'll be another four pounds there that would bring us almost to 75 pounds lost i would probably also put a plus four or a plus six swing arm in the back now it's gonna be a drag swing arm so it would be lighter but because it's longer i'm gonna say it'll probably be around the same weight there but overall dude that's like a 75 pound weight loss this thing is going to be crazy fun in the dunes man i can't wait to bring it out there i appreciate everybody that stayed till the very very last moment of this video please leave a comment in the comment section below if you stayed this long i'll see you guys in the next one peace out [Music] you

Channel: Michael Sabo

Views: 1,568,242

Keywords: yamaha, yfz350, yamaha banshee, motorcycle, 2 stroke, two stroke, banshee project, 1990 banshee, quad repair, two stroke build, banshee build, two stroke rebuild, quad project, yamaha two stroke, fix banshee, 2021 banshee, 2022 banshee, banshee 2 stroke, banshee, banshee transformation, fast banshee, trail banshee, banshee mods, make banshee faster, how to, Voodoo Banshee Part 5, voodoo banshee engine, best banshee mods, michael sabo, basket case garage

Id: ppp8KtT0Rmc

Length: 104min 21sec (6261 seconds)

Published: Fri Mar 25 2022