Building the coolest tambour cabinet you've ever seen.

to be honest I'm not a super creative guy I don't have sketchbooks full of different designs and ideas that maybe one day I'll get to building so for this cabinet I merely had an idea I wanted to try and inlay some kind of design with copper accents into the front of a Tambor door two things I'd never done before and with the help of the shaper origin CNC I was able to bring my idea to life oh and I had a Bluetooth radio kit lying around so I figured I could incorporate that into the cabinet design to combine Form and Function here's how it all went down this video is sponsored by Masterworks oh man only one piece left screw this up all right so I'm starting with some eight quarter quarter-sawn Walnut and actually got a little bit of curl in it so that's nice so first cut it to length then I'll head to the Joiner to get one face nice and flat and then run it through the planer get the other side flat and parallel and then one Edge through the Joiner and then over to the band saw to resaw my pieces in half which will give me roughly three quarters of an inch on each side I cut down a small piece and then a couple big pieces for the top and bottom of the cabinet and as you can see this is what we get that is some beautiful Walnut right there then I can stack and sticker it let it acclimate to the environment get nice air flow all the way around on all four sides and I always put a scrap piece on top that way that top piece gets the same amount of airflow and the next day I could head back to the Joiner to flatten one face as you can see it did move on me and needed some work and then back to the planer make sure everything is nice and flat and then I can can move on to setting up my shaper tape so I could use the shape or origin to cut out my groove and the shape of the top and bottom of the cabinet so using some double-sided tape I can just affix it to my little jig that I made here so you might be wondering what this funky Domino tape is well it's actually a uniquely encoded pattern that creates a workspace that the shape of origin can accurately track its position and where it needs to cut it's like GPS tape now with my design created in illustrator and exported as an SVG I was able to drop it in my shaper Hub which puts it right on the machine and then I could drop it on my workspace and start cutting and since this machine has an auto correct if you happen to Veer off course as long as I just stay on that dotted line I will be fine so I go all the way around now this is going to be the groove for my Tambor door and now I'll go all the way around the outside for my final shape of the actual bottom piece and there you have it now I could work on the top piece but first you Cooper and with that bottom right piece having a little less adhesive on it I could stick my piece down and get to cutting and this is where I ran into my first problem all right I'm noticing a couple problems here I actually cut this as a prototype before with a quarter inch groove it actually needed to be 3 8 but when I do it with a 3 8 Groove and I have a half inch by half inch Tambor it just looks too chunky and it doesn't make the corner either I can fine tune that a little bit but having it thinner but still a half inch wide and a quarter inch Groove I think works better proportionally for this cabinet so what that means is these two pieces are no good but I can still cut them into strips for the Tambor and I'll make two new pieces for the top and the bottom bummer and I won't bore you with that whole process but they were both cut here is the second one and the first unneely stacked on top so I've never done Tambor before but I watched a couple videos my buddy bourbon moth and Michael ULM from Alm Fab and on the slats for the Tambor there's a rabbit on the back but most guys it seems leave that 16th of an inch Gap exposed so the option is to either leave it exposed like that or turn this around so you don't see it what the overhang of that shoulder does is it puts a shadow under there and kind of hides the fact that that round Channel doesn't necessarily line up perfectly with the squareness of the Tambor slat so I was going to do that but I think I am going to do it like this okay meanwhile shop cat Jerry and Shop cat Lola were doing what they do best all right what I've got here is a test piece that with the shaper I cut out all these hexagons summer recess some are just the outline and then I tried some copper leafing in there this was all just an experiment and then I went back in and readjusted this design flip-flopped some things deleted some things I just wanted to see the scale of this and just experiment with the copper leaf a little bit so definitely have some improvement to make there but I think we're ready to move on to the next step which is the Tambour strip so I have here a nice pieces kind of all milled up to 3 8 of an inch so what I want to do is Lay these out kind of how I want them on the door trying to get the grain color to kind of flow now this is pretty much the full length of my tan board this is the center where the pole will go it's the left side the right side but I'm going to be taking out a saw Blade's width on every strip I cut so I'm going to need a lot more material than this and then I could start ripping now I did cut these a hair oversized just so I could run them all through the planer at the same time at the end to get rid of any burn marks but what I did realize is despite the fact that this was quarter-sawn there was still a lot of tension in this wood so a lot of pieces went haywire on the table saw so I ended up using a lot more material than I expected but not that big of a deal here you can see I'm just fishing and sorting out any bad ones with curves bends bananas whatever the case may be and just trying to get a nice flow of grain and color all the way across next up was to cut all my Tambor strips to final length so to do that I'm using a cross cut sled on the table saw I'm squaring up one end of all of them I finally realized it's easier if you cut two pieces at once makes things a little quicker and I think I actually gang three up on that one watch out now Mr efficient and then I could set my stop block to eight and a half inches that is going to cover the height plus the rabbet on the ends that will go into the Tambor Groove so once that was set it was Full Speed Ahead line them up cutting cutting and more cutting until all done and I was left with a pile of scraps then I needed to rip the Tambor strips that would go in the very Middle where my poles would go these are a little bit wider they are one inch wide and then I went and numbered all of my Tambor strips like a maniac not sure this was really necessary but I like to keep things in order and then I could start building The Jig to assemble my Tambor so I'm just using some Baltic birch plywood to make said jig so I clamped a big piece down and then I ripped up some strips and screwing those down and I need to make sure this jig is perfectly square that way the Tambor strips don't somehow skew sideways I also want the top and bottom rail of this jig to be the exact distance to match the height or length of all the chambour strips I'm using a square again making sure that I didn't put that in crooked and then I could just tack it in place and screw it down securely I'm also adding some stop blocks at the end which will be equal to the length of the Tambor and then what the heck I'm just going to cut right into the jig that I just made well actually this does have a purpose I'm pulling out a couple pieces top and bottom which will allow me to slide in some wedges and wedge the entire assembly nice and tight which you'll see shortly now because of the thickness of Baltic Birch I had I needed to oh look out forearm cams back I needed to build up the middle just a little bit so I put down a piece of quarter inch plywood and then I started sanding each one of the tamboo four strips needed to be sanded on the sides not the top of the bottom because I'll get those with the random orbital sander but the sides all needed to be sanded and again I smartened up and said oh if I gang two pieces up it'll be a little easier and then once those were all sanded what I wanted to do was pre-finish those edges with shellac because once the Tambor is together and glued to the canvas it will be very difficult to get in there so I applied two coats of shellac maybe three sanding in between on both sides which are actually both edges the inside and outside and then I could start laying them in like piano keys one by one or two by two you could see I put my one inch center pieces in there as well until I'm all the way out to the edge just kind of giving them a little hammer time just making sure they're nice and flat and then the wedges that I mentioned this is going to push that block nice and tight and basically act as a clamp to pull everything tight together and make sure there are no gaps I'm actually angling these screws in to give me a little bit more clamping pressure as well and you'll also notice all my strips are slightly proud of my jig that way I could hit them all with the random orbital sander front and back while the fronts I'll get after I do the canvas and flip it over and then I could lay out for my canvas I'm basically leaving 9 16 of an inch top and bottom that's just giving me enough clearance top and bottom so the canvas doesn't come anywhere near the groove for the Tambor and interfere with the operation of the door I'm also adding a quarter inch clearance on the center panels the one inch Center panels that way the canvas doesn't extend past those either and a wee bit of clearance on the ends as well probably an eighth of an inch or so nothing too drastic oh hello green tape now as accurate as I might think I am with a roller and contact cement the likelihood of me going over my layout line is pretty high so I'm using some green tape to mask that out just to make sure I don't have any contact cement go where I don't want it to go and that goes for the ends as well as the middle and then I could bust out the black canvas which I grew grossly overestimated how much I would need indeed I did now this is just black canvas I bought at Joanne Fabrics it's the only one they had there they have other colors I just wanted black since that goes nicely with Walnut and copper and then with my piece cut to size just the hair oversized to overlap the green tape a bit I could lay down the contact cement which I apologize I forgot to turn the camera on but I applied generous amounts of contact cement with a paint roller on the fabric and the wood itself now the reason I chose contact cement over wood glue in this application is I didn't want to introduce any moisture into these Tambor strips and risk any more wood Movement Like twisting or cupping and to be sure I had nice even contact I'm just using this fast cap roller and then when that was all dry which is pretty much immediately I used a straight edge to trim the excess which overlapped the green tape and then I could peel that all away once the sides and ends were done I could do the same in the middle and just like in kindergarten you could ball up the excess and flick it like a booger now the moment of truth I could release the Tambor doors from their confinement and see if they actually well worked being able to roll them out of The Jig was already a good sign and I breathed a huge sigh of internal relief but that victory was short-lived as I had to turn the doors over so they were face up so I could sand everything and start inlaying my design with the shaper origin so the next project was to extend my work surface so I could lay down enough Domino tape for the shaper origin to have an adequate workspace so this took a bit it was some plywood everything had to be nice and level with the top of my Tambor as you can see my tambors were slightly proud of my jig but now my jig and the extended work surface needs to be flush with it and once that was done I could lay down my Domino tape and establish my new shaper work area and with my design loaded into the shaper I could click the screen and drop it in now I had set a couple of pieces of tape down so that I could lay out exactly where this would be perfectly Square to my Tambor and well I screwed up big time but I didn't realize it until I had cut a few of the hexagons and you see that oh yeah that's right off the bottom bottom I accidentally aligned it up with the bottom of the tape and it should have been in between those two pieces of tape so after a child like tantrum I decided to just push on and come back and fix that later so I adjusted my design to the correct position and started cutting all the hexagons now I had a 1 8 inch bit in there to remove the majority of the material and then came back with a 16th inch bit to get the corners as Square as possible so here's with the eighth inch bit and then after the cleanup much more square and crisp now it's a round bit so you can't get perfect but pretty darn close with the 16th then I just came back with a hand sander to get rid of all the fuzz and as you can see I had some hexagons that were carved out completely and some that were just outlines and they were big ones and medium ones and smaller ones too and look at these two still sleeping the day away whoa that Lumber's gone up four dollars aboard foot since I quoted this job and that finish used to be and now sweet fancy Moses news flash everyone inflation is real and despite prices coming back down since the height of kovid they are still high and I'm sure you've noticed they are steadily Rising again now I'm just a sole proprietor small business owner I build furniture and I film the process to share it with you and I've never really been good at Investments or the stock market or French poetry or cribbage or using epoxy without getting it all over my hands but nevertheless when it comes to my financial future it's becoming all too real the older I get and finding a way to have my money out there working for me instead of against me is critical and that's where the sponsor of today's video Masterworks can help now a typical portfolio of stocks and bonds has already lost around 20 percent this year according to Goldman Sachs in my personal 401K has taken an even bigger hit it's 2008 all over again but research is showing that banks are investing 30 to 50 percent of our money into our alternative assets that can actually be helped by inflation assets like what you might ask well like fine art well I wouldn't consider this fine just yet but I'm working on it now instead how about paintings from legendary artists like Picasso Banksy and Monet data shows the last time inflation was this high back in the 70s and early 80s when I was yay high Fine Art still kept increasing in value by an average of 17 and a half percent per year in fact Contemporary Art prices outperform the S P 500 Total return by 164 percent for the past 26 years Masterworks can help you diversify your portfolio in fine art for a fraction of what billionaires pay to purchase artwork now Masterworks makes it possible for people like you and I to invest in shares of this very same Contemporary Art that's just wild to me now as recently as early October Masterworks sold a painting for 21 and a half percent net return now as inflation keeps raging and demand is growing Masterworks actually has a wait list right now but my subscribers can skip the wait list using the link below so check it out and diversify your portfolio by investing in fine art with Masterworks at masterworks.art Keith Johnson that's masterworks.art Keith Johnson and one day you might even see this on there all right then it was time to do the repair I was going to do a patch which basically just fill this in and you'd never see it unfortunately anytime you have a cross grain patch you always see that scene but I figured I'd make the attempt anyway so I put one little strip in there and then with some CA glue and then I slid the other strip in on the other side once that was dry gave it a light pass with a block plane hit it with a random orbital sander and there you go not great so I decided to get crafty and in an homage to my buddy Nikki at Key Woodworks I went back into Adobe Illustrator made a patch put it back in the shaper and came out with this it's obviously not an exact match to his logo but an homage nonetheless here's to you Nick next up was working on the copper leaf inlay for all those hexagons I just carved and to push that inlay down into the recesses of the hexagons I made these little Keys these will also be used to cut out the actual inlay the first one was a hair loose so I adjusted it at five thousandths and that fit in nice and tight so that one got the stamp of approval and I made one for all three sizes okay this was my first attempt just to practice peace you can see how wrinkly and how this Leaf didn't stick to the adhesive so that was this stuff super fragile difficult to move around without breaking and wrinkling then my buddy Paul at Copper Pig find woodworking turned me on to this stuff which has a backer so you can see the leaf is stuck to this backer sheet so when I stick this down on the adhesive and then I can just peel that off and unfortunately I didn't get the flaky foil out of the way soon enough before Lola had to go sticking her nose in it literally I milled up some bigger panels of veneer pretty much the size of the actual sheet takes about a half an hour to dry before we can apply the foil but let's get it on there now this adhesive is water-based and it goes on purpley blue and when it dries clear then it's ready to go well unfortunately because it's water-based that thin piece of veneer is curled up like a canoe which is why I'm glad I taped down the other two pieces keeping them nice and flat and then it was gilding time the adhesive was dry and now I could lay the foil down now I had done a few tests which you can see off to the side but this was still all trial and error as you'll soon see it was a lot of error oh Help Me Rhonda that could have gone better so I have this gilding brush which helps kind of smooth everything out you can also see the texture of the Walnut coming through which I wasn't happy with at first but then I started to warm up to it and I liked it it gave it a little more texture a little more character now on the second piece I used a white Scotch Brite pad to burnish it and that produced much better results that's like perfect and then a few swipes with the gilding brush to smooth it all out now we're ready to start cutting some inlay now this copper leaf is very prone to burnishing and damaged so I put a piece of the tissue paper back on top while I had my little template on there to cut it now I tried it with a utility knife then tried it with a chisel I found the utility knife was just easier you can see I've cut a bunch of these already now you might be wondering why I didn't use the shaper well I was just worried it would start tearing things up and it would be a lot slower so I just went like this it took me I don't know probably a half an hour to cut all of these out I needed like 60 of them Taskmaster Lola made sure I wasn't sloughing off and then I could glue them in with some star Bond CA glue now there are some inherent issues with using this as you can see some of that adhesive kind of goes up the side walls of the inlay which can get a little sloppy but all in all it worked pretty well as long as I was careful well except for there you see this little drop of CA glue on the leaf which is kind of a bummer now I did have to repair some of these later on if some had scratches and burnishes I'll show you how I did repair those later but in the meantime let's just keep rolling with these and one last one and you can also see the texture on the foil or the texture of the wood coming through is at a 45 degree angle I tried a couple different ways horizontal vertical and the 45 degree angle seemed to look the best and with those done I could brace myself for the next arduous task of slicing all of those inlays along the seams of the Tambor so they fold around now because some of these Tambor slats were so tight I couldn't actually see the joint so I put a piece of paper in there to show me where it was and then use that as a guide to slice the inlay now unfortunately on that one I probably should have centered it a little better so it wasn't that little Nick in the corner but oh well and that's just how I did this I set a ruler up and used an X-Acto Knife and just went down and sliced through that veneer until it was able to break free and the Tambor was able to roll freely and I definitely had some issues with this trying to hold that exacto knife perfectly perpendicular to the edge of that ruler was tough and I definitely had some Cuts go off the rails a little bit and I'm not ashamed to admit it but started to roll nicely so that was good my vision was coming to life then I could finish up the second door and now show you exactly how it looks and how it rolls and now to seal all the gold leaf with this sealer I wasn't too concerned with being sloppy here and I actually use this to seal the side walls of all the inlays and the top you can be a little sloppy there it's all going to get sanded off and then I could head to the table saw and cut the rabbit in both of the Tambor doors top and bottom I'm using I'm using a quarter inch dado blade for this I'll make one pass on each side then I can move the fence over now since the groove for the Tambor doors is 5 16 of an inch deep the rabbet is 3 8 of an inch what that does it gives that 1 16 of an inch reveal all the way around with that cut and then I could do the official Tambor slide and roll around the corner test well it seems to fit nicely now let's see how it operates that's a little rough this side is yeah that's a lot rough a little sticking point but let's clean that up we'll grab the shoulder plane take a few shavings off of there and that should operate much better ah there we go and once this thing is all waxed up that should be footloose and fancy free next to his time to get work on the internals now this was a complete design on the Fly situation I had nothing sketched out ahead of time I knew the Bluetooth radio kit had to fit in there somehow the speakers and the manifold but I figured it should be leaned back a little bit that way when you open it it's easier to read so I eyeballed it at about 15 degrees and then I could cut the top and the bottom at said angle and then check it it popped the top on and yeah that looks about right I guess then I could start laying out for the control panel making sure that's centered and seeing where I wanted the speakers to be situated as well now the speakers had kind of an odd shape they were square but were bulging around all sides and I wanted these to sit in some kind of a walnut Mount to have them proud of that angled piece so we're using the shaper I just kind of Drew out a piece that was the same shape but only larger and then free it from its double-sided tape imprisonment and there you go it's just a little bit bigger so I'm using that as basically a template to flush trim a piece of Walnut which will allow me to get the correct measurements and protrusion of said speaker mounts and in order to do that I'm just going to double stick tape that little piece of Walnut to the angled divider thing stick a square there and then measure comes out to two inches so that's how thick my piece needs to be but I do need to make a new template with a cutout for the speaker Jerry would you hand me that bit please yes the quarter inch up cut it's in there check on the bottom oh gosh well he did eventually find it now this new template I'm cutting is pretty much the same as the old but it has a cutout in the middle for the speaker to slide into like that that's a nice tight fit that little notches for the speaker wires all right now let's do the same thing on some two inch thick Walnut now the bit I had wasn't able to go the full depth which is why I needed the template so I could flush trim these once I had routed them at maximum depth I could head over to the bandsaw to clean up all the waste around as close to my layout line as possible and then head back over to the router table to flush trim them then over to the drill press to clean out that Giant Center nodule and then back to the router table to flush trim that edge on the inside nice and clean now to cut the 15 degree angle on these speaker blocks to match the inside divider that is at 15 degrees I created this little sled from my bandsaw and to affix them I'm just using some CA glue you can see I have some layout lines there one of to make sure these things are perfectly Square going through the bandsaw and then it's just a matter of riding along the fence and there's my speaker mounts with a 15 degree angle on the back that way they will be affixed to the middle divider and they will be perpendicular with the ground or table or floor now this middle divider was a little tricky on how I was going to attach it so I'm using the lamello Zeta P2 and the climax connectors which tighten with the use of an allen key so that makes it pretty simple well I say that now but you'll see later I just ran into some issues due to space constraints and once all the slots were cut I could then drill for the access holes for the Allen key now there was one little knot on the top of the top piece so I'm just using some copper powder and epoxy here so that'll buff up nicely and have a nice little copper accent to match the other copper accents now I could lay out my speaker mounts on the actual divider in order to cut out the holes that would allow the speakers to go all the way through now these holes could have been cut with a forstner bit over on the drill press but since I had the file already made I figured why not make it perfect using the shaper origin so with a touch here and a touch there and we could make the cutout in no time and then a quick dry assembly so I could figure out which way I wanted to mount these speaker mounts now I thought maybe angled upward would help better with sound but angled squarely so they're perpendicular definitely look better and with that decision made I could cut that middle divider to final length by squaring off both ends at the table saw and whilst at the table saw I figured it was a good time to cut the end supports that will basically make this inside divider a big h as you can see here and how's that for iPhone's auto focus oh gosh shoulder cam sorry about that Jerry was running the camera so with those layout lines traced now I know where I can pre-drill my holes for fixing screws into the sides there so I'll drill from one side to get a nice clean hole flip it over and then countersink and just to warn you this project has basically every Fastener and adhesive in my Arsenal you got regular screws pocket screws lamello connectors dominoes rivets brad nails magnets chewing gum wood glue solder epoxy contact cement CA glue well all right maybe it doesn't have rivets and speaking of those pocket holes here we go this is how the end pieces will affix to the bottom of the cabinet and what I was hoping was the top of the cabinet but you'll see later why that wouldn't work so with those drilled then I could drill my holes for my speaker mounts and then I had to cut up this little trim piece which I'll let myself explain why so as you can see I drilled these access holes for the Allen keys in the wrong side so just cut this piece with a 15 degree bevel on it to match the bevel of this I'm just going to stick that in there now it becomes a design element and then with a mix of CA glue for that instant bond and some wood glue for the permanent Bond I could have fixed that little spray activator gets things moving even quicker now to hide the track for the LED lights which will be affixed to the underside of the top I'm just adding this little Walnut Valance if you will just to hide that using some 23 gauge pin nails and some clamps and glue to hold it all in place and then I could work on the mount for the control panel manifold plate thing and I was able to design this right on the shaper with the onboard controls now we can test the fit and after a little layout I could place the mounting block in place and Mark where I have to cut out so that the radio and wires and controls and all that can slide through to cut said hole oh wait for it battery cam that's a new feature I used three different tools to use a drill I use the jigsaw oh and a multi-tool yeah I could have taken the sides off and done this all with the jigsaw but that seemed like too much time and yet it took way longer to do it this way and I had to take the sides off anyway to cut this little notchy Notch for the LED wire to slide through all right next up was to drill the mounting holes all the way into the speaker Mount so with some double-sided tape I got those perfectly in position and then from the back side I could pre-drill some holes and get those countersunk and then I could actually drive some screws through to secure these in place now this is just temporary these will be taken off after to finish sanding and by after I mean right now so we'll get this front sanded that way we can get this front control panel Mount thing in place I'm just using a ruler and some tape to get it laid out and perfectly Square I want to make sure that thing isn't crooked at all and then with a couple of beads of glue all the way around making sure I don't get any squeeze out you don't need much glue here make sure it's square and secured in place with pin nails and then I could glue on the speaker mounts as well you can see the tips of my screws are protruding through the back those are basically my alignment so I know since I pre-drilled these holes they should drop right in there and I know they'll be in position and square I actually wish I had pre-finished these and that front panel separately it would have made it easier and got a better finish on it but lesson learned and then with everything lined up I could firmly secure them with the screws and now for the many side pieces that will basically hide the Tambor as it goes around the back I needed to get a little creative with this which is why it has an angle on it the cabinet itself was really tight in how everything fit so I needed to be very mindful of the operation of the Tambour so it didn't rub and yet stay within the confines or dimensions of the cabinet now to be able to access everything from the back of the cabinet I cut this access panel using the shaper origin and then I could cut slots in the back panel for dominoes now these will be used to affix those little wings that we just cut a minute ago and then I cut corresponding slots in those wings now I cut one on the loose setting and one on the tight setting that way I had a little maneuverability during glue up here's a little fit now as you can see there's a two millimeter offset just to give it a little Shadow line back there and then I could get to gluing up anytime I'm gluing up something with dominoes and at least one side is on the tight setting I always glue those in first that way they're done and I'm not fumbling with gluing up two sides during the assembly now I also cut this other offset panel on the shaper which will allow me to put the access panel in with some magnets so I Mark that and cut it I'm actually going to put a little rabbet on the bottom which will slide into the groove on the bottom side of the cabinet then with everything in place a little glue a few 23 gauge pin nails and a lot of clamps and how about a little finger hole so popping off that access plate is much easier so drill that out on the drill press and then using a little round over bit I ease that edge and then it was all about the holes for the magnets these are quarter inch magnets so quarter inch holes in the panel corresponding holes in the actual back of the cabinet and then a little CA glue to secure the magnets it was a really tight fit anyway as you can see that CA glue just adds a little more strength then we can test the fit and as you can see there's a little reveal all the way around I don't want it perfectly tight in case there's some expansion and contraction and while I glue this up a huge thanks to my good friend Paul from copper Pig fine woodworking who has inspired me to push my design and creativity to the next level he was definitely a Lifeline for me on this project from design advice to stress therapy be sure to check out his amazing work in creativity on Instagram I'll leave a link to his page down below now since there was no easy way to attach these side wings to the top and bottom of the cabinet I figured I would use some copper pins in ascending or descending order so I went from a quarter inch to 3 16 down to an eighth that way they kind of follow the angle of those side pieces and then with the wings clamped securely in place I could now transfer those holes down into the wings and then I could make the copper pins I'm just using my belt sander here to kind of round off the top and then Chuck it up in my drill at high speed and go all the way up to through the Grits to 2400 600 1200 steel wool and then the sunshine polishing cloths can you see yourself oh yeah all right I am not an Electronics guy so this is not a tutorial of how to hook up this Bluetooth radio kit but if you go to the DIY audio guys page which I put a link to below he is the one that has the best video on how to assemble this kit now I actually bought this kind of piecemeal but you can buy all the components including the battery pack Etc as one big kit and I'll link that below as well all in all it was pretty easy to put together with his video because the instructions that come with it are quite lacking then it was time to get all my components broken down and masked off for finish now for the finish I will be using d-wax shellac this was also a great recommendation my buddy Paul at Copper Pig this is by wellermart and instead of mixing it with denatured alcohol you mix it with grain alcohol makes it less toxic once dissolved it looks like this and I'm just using an HVLP key sprayer that I picked up on Amazon for 50 bucks it worked really well there's a link down below if you're interested in that comes with a 1.3 millimeter tip you can buy other tips as well but this sprayed really nicely I was very happy with it and I gave everything three coats sanding with 800 grit in between coats I mentioned earlier that a few of the copper inlays needed repair so all I did was cut the foil to the exact size put some adhesive down laid it on top with that tissue backer still in place and then using a brush I just kind of burnished it and smoothed everything out and then with some incisions to make sure the Tambour folds and it was done it worked pretty well now for the Tambor doors themselves I came up with this little idea of taping them to a roll of paper towels that way it would keep everything open and it ended up working out pretty well and now that all the pieces that needed to be pre-finished were pre-finished I could do a little glue up and assembly and finally start to get this thing together now to attach this middle unit to the bottom that's just a matter of putting it on the climax connectors and I did put glue on there I didn't show it but I did tighten those down and then drop a few pocket screws in and then I wanted to make sure to wax up the Tambor doors nicely I put a few coats of wax on there this should provide the best Tambor rolling gliding operation possible and then it was everybody's favorite time total boat baby that's right little KJ some total boat fixo epoxy this gives me plenty of open time and Superior holding strength now you can see there's some Domino slots in the bottom back there I'm going to use that to attach the back panel I'm not sure I showed those being mortised out so I'll just drop that in make sure I clean out any squeeze out and then get those clamped down and then I can flip this thing over and put in those brass pins that we made before now since the brass pins on the bottom will never be seen these ones were actually going to sand flush and then put the Finish over the ones on top have that domed shiny appearance to give that tactile feel and the nice design detail speaking of design details I wanted to make some custom unique poles for the Tambor doors so I wanted them to be Walnut of course but then also add a copper accent so so with My Little Harbor Freight lathe I was able to turn down this little well Rod I guess drill a hole in the end and then using some total boat four minute epoxy I could slather that in there and put a little quarter inch copper pin then using a block to make sure I press out all the air and epoxy once that was dry then I could hit it with the carbide turning tools by woodpeckers these things are great if you don't know how to turn because I do not and they make me look like I know how to turn then I could buff everything while it was still spinning and cut it off and there you go next up was to dye it with some India ink as my buddy Paul says the look of Walnut copper and black is such a classic look and man is he right you can actually see on these doors that some of the outlines of the hexagons I did go in there and dye those black just as another added detail and a little countersink there just to collect any adhesive pooling and then I could chuck up the pole in the drill press and give it a good waxing shiny and then with surgeon-like Precision using a toothpick and getting some total boat epoxy in there then I could finally install these little poles now one thing I didn't consider is where the doors meet in the front there needs to be a positive stop that way the door is always close in the exact center now there's a positive stop in the back to prevent them from opening too far and that's the actual access panel and the other secondary panel that was glued onto it but the front was a different story so installing a copper pin would create a positive stop however I also needed to glue on some little Walnut blocks on the back of the doors which could contact that copper pin and force the doors to stop exactly where I wanted them to and with that little detail figured out I could move on to finishing up the Bluetooth radio part of this build so that just involved taking the circuit board and mounting it to the risers and then installing the battery pack and the rechargeable batteries as well and then I could get those charged up now if you do not use the battery pack with this kit you will have to plug in the DC power connection in the front of this all the time to power it so the batteries are definitely the way to go now another design problem I ran into is when the doors were closed used in the front because there was a little slop in the track it was pulling it back and they weren't coming nice and flush out to the front edge so introducing this little curved wedge which I cut on the shaper actually then I'm going to glue in place and what this will do is as the doors come together it will push them out right towards the front and make them nice and flush and even then I just popped a little Block in there to get everything nice and tight while that glue dries next I could actually start installing all of my electrical components this little foam gasket here supposedly prevents vibrations from the control panel and then it was time for the LEDs now this is a motion activated I planned on installing this inside the cabinet in the back so that as soon as the Tan Bar opens and goes by it the lights will come on which as you'll see it does work unfortunately it only stays on for 25 seconds so yeah I wasn't really planning on that for some reason I figured it would just stay on until I close it but anyway the LEDs can easily be cut to length so I'll stick those down in the channel and then I made this little mounting block that will fit inside the back of the cabinet very carefully then I can screw it to secure it then pop that sensor down in there now unfortunately because all the electronics that are going back there and the access hole in the back is very small I couldn't get my hand in there to tighten those clamax screws on top so I drilled a few in the front and then we'll add some copper pins for accent design details again but first let's get this control panel installed and then the speakers I had to do a little soldering here to get these wires connected to the speakers which was fun never really done that before I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to see smoke but I might be wrong and then it was just a matter of fishing these back in through now I was able to find some aged copper screws for this online Unfortunately they were all slotted I couldn't find any Phillips or Torx but that's okay I still like the look of the copper screw instead of just a standard black screw and then I made sure to clock all of my screws vertical now with most Tambor cabinets you can slide in the tambors from the back and then remove them if necessary but since these had one-inch tambors in the middle that prevented them from rounding the radius on the corners so I had to install everything together doors in and they would never be able to come out so this got a little tricky I had to hook up the LEDs I had to install the doors and then drop the lid on so it was kind of a three or four hand operation so using some total boat fixo epoxy give me a little more open time make sure I thread that led through and then I have to get the right side Tambor door installed and then try to get the top of the cabinet lined up with the clamax connectors the Tambor doors and The Dominoes in the back it definitely took some finagling but eventually I got it and then obviously I wanted to make sure I tested the doors first before I really secure everything those worked okay so now I could get to those clam X screws which will firmly pull down the top now as I mentioned way earlier the reason I couldn't get to those pocket screws on the side was there was no way I could screw up with the Tambor doors there but that's okay with the epoxy and the lamello connectors and then the pins that we're gonna put in here this thing is plenty solid oh and there's dominoes in the back too and speaking of those copper pins so with some total boat thick so epoxy yet again put a little bit in there and then I put a Furniture pad on the bottom of my Mallet make sure I don't damage anything drive those just proud of the surface I just want a little Dome there so you can feel it with your finger and you'll notice it when you look at it with your eye so after the quarter inch one then the 3 16 and then the 1 8 the little guy and then pretty much rinse and repeat on the interior to plug those holes that I used to get to the climax connectors and then for some shoes on the bottom I just picked these up at Home Depot I think they are one and a half inch diameter leveling feet they're rubber non-stick just like my favorite frying pan oh and one more thing install the diffuser on the LED track make sure that light Isn't So harsh and now this thing was finally done whoo foreign well there you have it this one took way longer than I thought it would you know due to my normal production schedule and the fact that I had to design on the Fly and all these things I'd never done before but overall I'm very happy with it there's definitely some things I would like to improve upon with the copper inlay and how I do that I'm just not quite sure how I would but I really like the ultimate look of the cabinet the function of the Tambor the radio itself these speakers aren't that great it could really use you know a subwoofer for some more bass but for what it is it's not too bad now there are no plans for this because well I never had any myself but if you wanted to buy a Bluetooth radio kit there's a link down below to check that out maybe build your own cabinet and just experiment sometimes the smallest idea can lead to the biggest thing and open up more ideas and more ideas so I'm definitely going to do another Tambor cabinet with inlay but next time it's not going to take as long and it won't be a Bluetooth radio thanks so much for watching if you'd like to subscribe share like I greatly appreciate it we'll see on the next one whoa crayon Razz it's a little zazzy for me [Music]

Channel: Keith Johnson Woodworking

Views: 132,658

Keywords: kjsawdust, tambour cabinet, copper leaf, tambour, copper leaf furniture, tambour cabinet door, keith johnson woodworking, bluetooth radio kit, walnut cabinet, how to make tambour, walnut, bluetooth radio speaker portable, Wood working, copper inlay in wood, inlay wood, shaper origin cnc, shaper origin, masterworks art investment, Midcentury modern, copper leaf art, woodworking tips

Id: nuk5p5-DQZk

Length: 44min 46sec (2686 seconds)

Published: Sat Oct 29 2022